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Experimental Study of Water Waves: Nonlinear Effects and Absorption Experimental study of water waves : nonlinear effects and absorption Eduardo Monsalve Gutierrez To cite this version: Eduardo Monsalve Gutierrez. Experimental study of water waves : nonlinear effects and absorp- tion. Mechanics [physics]. Université Pierre et Marie Curie - Paris VI, 2017. English. NNT : 2017PA066027. tel-01589016 HAL Id: tel-01589016 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01589016 Submitted on 18 Sep 2017 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Université Pierre et Marie Curie Ecole doctorale 391: Sciences mécaniques, acoustique, électronique et robotique de Paris Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique des Milieux Hétérogènes / Groupe MOndeS Études expérimentales des ondes à la surface de l'eau: effets non linéaires et absorption. Experimental study of water waves: nonlinear effects and absorption. Par Eduardo Monsalve Gutiérrez Thèse de doctorat de dynamique des fluides et des transferts Dirigée par Agnès MAUREL, Vincent PAGNEUX & Philippe PETITJEANS Présentée et soutenue publiquement le 20 mars 2017 Devant un jury composé de : M. Sébastien Guenneau, Directeur de Recherche au CNRS Rapporteur M. Michel Benoit, Professeur IRPHE & Ecole Centrale Marseille Rapporteur M. Christophe Josserand, Directeur de Recherche au CNRS Président du jury Mme. Agnès Maurel, Directrice de Recherche au CNRS Co-directrice de thèse M. Vincent Pagneux, Directeur de Recherche au CNRS Co-directeur de thèse M. Philippe Petitjeans, Directeur de Recherche au CNRS Directeur de thèse `aFabiola. Remerciements Je voudrais remercier tout d’abord `ames encadrants Agn`es, Vincent et Philippe pour toute son aide et patiente dans ce proc`es de convertissement vers la physique fondamentale depuis l’ing´enierie. Merci pour avoir eu le crit`ere et l’exp´erience pour me rediriger quand les choses ne marchaient pas et au mˆeme temps pour me laisser la libert´ed’approfondir mes recherches sur les probl`emes que m’int´eressaient. Merci pour tout ce que m’ont appris et pour prendre le temps de discuter le moindre d´etail de ma th`ese, toujours dans une ambiance tr`es agr´eable et accueillante. Je me sens vraiment privil´egi´ed’avoir travaill´edans ce groupe. Merci aussi pour votre compr´ehension et pour avoir mis les moyennes n´ecessaires pour mon int´egration en France. Je remercie les deux rapporteurs, Dr. Michel Benoit et Dr. S´ebastien Guenneau, pour avoir accept´ede corriger mon travail et pour tous les commentaires tr`es constructifs sur mon manuscrit. Merci `aDr. Christophe Josserand pour avoir pr´esid´ele jury de soutenance. Je voudrais remercier ´egalement au groupe du Laboratoire Saint-Venant-EDF compos´ede Michel Benoit, Marissa Yates et C´ecile Raoult, pour tout l’effort mis sur la mod´elisation num´erique des ondes non lin´eaires et pour les discussions tr`es productives que m’ont fait beaucoup avancer et r´efl´echir pendant la th`ese. Dans le groupe MOndeS, je voudrais remercier particuli`erement `aTomek pour sa bonne humeur et pour les longues discussions sur les ondes, o`uon a trouv´e parfois des r´eponses. Merci aussi `atous les postdocs Ga¨el, H´el`ene, Alex, Florence et Thomas pour sa collaboration et sympathie. Un grand merci `atous les membres du PMMH, permanents, postdocs et doctorants, pour faire de mon passage pour le labo un beau souvenir. Merci `aFred et Claudette pour l’aide administratif et aux membres de l’atelier pour l’aide technique. Merci `aAntonin, Laurette, Jos´eEduardo, Pablo C. et Miguel pour les discussions et commentaires scientifiques. Je tiens `aremercier notamment mes co-bureaux, Pierre et Jessica, pour sa gentillesse, son amiti´eet pour m’avoir fait d´ecouvrir un peu plus le fran¸cais et la France. Merci aussi `ames co-bureaux Ang´elica, Marta et Salom´e, qui ont ´et´etoujours tr`es sympathiques, gentilles et souriantes et avec qui j’ai pu ´elargir encore plus mon vocabulaire d’espagnol. Merci aussi `aJoe et Rory, deux anglais trop sympathiques que m’ont invit´e`ad´ejeuner tous les jours mˆeme si `al’´epoque je ne suivais pas trop son anglais natif. Je souhaite remercier les Professeur chilien Juan Carlos Elicer pour son soutien au d´ebut de ce projet et sp´ecialement au Professeur Rodrigo Hern´andez pour la formation que j’ai suivie au Chili, pour susciter mon int´erˆet pour la m´ecanique des fluides et pour son soutien au cours de cette th`ese. Je remercie le financement de Conicyt Becas-Chile pour le d´eroulement de cette th`ese. Je remercie Marion et ses enfants, pour ouvrir les portes de son foyer, son amiti´eet ses conseils. Je remercie particuli`erement Matthieu, Oxana et Mia, pour les moments sympathiques pass´es ensemble. ⋆ ⋆ ⋆ Ahora puedo pasar a escribir en la lengua de cervantes, en su versi´on chilena-sure˜na. Quisiera comenzar de manera geogr´afica por Europa para no perderme. Gracias Hugol, Pata y Mati, por habernos recibido varias veces en Amsterdam, por su amistad, empat´ıa y por habernos hecho sentir en familia por un par de d´ıas. Gracias a todos los amigos chilenos de paso por Europa que hicieron un espacio en su casa para recibirnos y pasar gratos momentos: Gail, Benja, Renzo, Marlene, Olivia, Josefina, Carlos, Lorenzo, Dayana, Flaco y Maca. Quiero agradecer tambi´en a todos los amigos que III Remerciements se dieron el tiempo de visitarnos, no los puedo nombrar a todos porque son much´ısimos, pero quiero que sepan que para nosotros fue m´as que una alegr´ıa haberlos tenido en Paris. Me gustar´ıa agradecer a la Cami, amiga que vine a encontrar de nuevo, gracias por hacer que mi llegada a Francia no sea tan traum´atica y gracias por haberme presentado a gente incre´ıble como Marianela, Javier, Ignacio y Jorge (y luego Kathleen). Muchas gracias a ellos tambi´en por su compa˜n´ıa y por los lindos momentos que hemos pasado en Paris. Muchas gracias Pame, Antoine y Mathilde, familia tours-penquista que ha sido una gran compa˜n´ıa estos a˜nos, gracias por abrir su casa a gente nueva. Gracias tambi´en a Angela y Benjamin, por su amistad, compa˜n´ıa y cari˜no. Igualmente gracias Vero y Miguel por sus consejos, buena onda y amistad. No puedo dejar de agradecer a los amigos que han hecho familia en el extranjero. Algunos ya han partido como Dani, Pablo, Tere, Nico C., Seba D., Qui˜ni, los monos y Celia. Otros siguen hasta hoy (como dijo Ceratti) como Mariela, Mat´ıas, Sofi, Seba G., Miraine, Pedro (e Irene), David, Ana, Marcy y Javier. Gracias a todos ellos por haber sido siempre tan cari˜nosos, buena onda, con esp´ıritu tan joven y con ganas de juntarse siempre para hacer de la vida parisina algo m´as que llevadero. Muchas gracias a mis amigos que est´an en Chile, los beauchefianos por su apoyo a la distancia y los osorninos por siempre mantener el contacto. Gracias Pablito por haber estado presente en persona este ´ultimo a˜no. Gracias viejujas por sacarme una sonrisa cada vez que miro el celu. Quiero agradecer a mi familia, primas, primos, t´ıas y t´ıos, por haberme dado siempre su apoyo y por siempre desearme buena suerte a la distancia. Quiero agradecer muy especialmente a mis padres, Mercedes y Juan, quienes desde que soy peque˜no han sido mi modelo de vida y de quienes he tenido siempre un apoyo incondicional. Gracias por ense˜narme a ser esforzado y a luchar por mis sue˜nos. Gracias por dejarme partir tan lejos, por aguantar la vida solos en el sur y por siempre creer hasta el final que todo este sacrificio es para mejor. Muchas gracias tambi´en de manera especial a mis suegros y cu˜nadas por su apoyo y por asumir la pena de dejar partir a la Fabi por algunos a˜nos. Finalmente quiero agradecer a mi esposa Fabiola, el amor de mi vida, la persona que ha estado a mi lado cada d´ıa y que ha sido el principal soporte en este per´ıodo. Gracias por haber dejado tu carrera en Chile para acompa˜narme en esta aventura y por haber hecho tambi´en tuyo este proyecto. Gracias por aceptar el volver a tener una vida de estudiantes y por haber hecho el trabajo completo de aprender franc´es desde cero, estudiar y ahora estar trabajando en Francia. Infinitas gracias por haberme apoyado en los momentos en que el ´animo escaseaba y por darme cada d´ıa ese abrazo, ese chiste (porque eres muy chistosa) y esa sonrisa que me hacen feliz. Me siento infinitamente afortunado de tenerte a mi lado, de tener la posibilidad de crecer junto a ti, de decirte que te amo todos los d´ıas y de saber que seguiremos caminando de la mano conociendo lugares como eternos pololos. Te admiro por ser tan valiente, inteligente y tierna al mismo tiempo. Te amo mucho mi amor de meloncito. Paris, le 20 Mars 2017 Eduardo IV R´esum´e Cette th`ese porte sur l’´etude exp´erimentale des ondes non-lin´eaires `ala surface de l’eau. Premi`erement, l’´etude pr´esente les mesures spatio-temporelles des ondes non-lin´eaires lors du passage sur une marche immerg´ee.
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