Glasbury to Chepstow the River Wye, on the England/Wales Border, Is
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Glasbury to Chepstow The river Wye, on the England/Wales border, is one of the least spoiled large rivers in the United Kingdom. In the 17th century an Act of Parliament removed riparian owners rights and confirmed it as a “free and open” navigation up to Hay and it became an important waterway in the early industrial era. Weirs of various degrees of permanence were built to allow large barges to pass and the river must have been fairly polluted. However with the development of canals and railways the commercial traffic disappeared and the river naturally cleansed itself. Over the last century fishermen have pushed to reduce pollution, followed more recently by a new constituency, canoeists. The following is a guide to finding camp sites and access for launching along the main canoe-touring stretch from Glasbury to Chepstow. Compiled from various sources and many paddles. It seemed pretty clean when I first canoed it as a child in about 1970, and was still so when I last did so in Spring 2011. I predict that with increasing numbers of canoeists caring about the river, it will steadily improve. Glasbury From here to Hay access is disputed but the current informal agreement is for canoeing between 10 am and 4pm, leaving the morning and evening for the fishermen. The normal launching point is on the left bank just above the bridge. A fee of 50p per canoe is payable to the post office. 3 miles- Hollybush Inn right Super camp site on the right bank mid-way between Glasbury and Hay. 4.5 miles – Broken weir. Shoot right 5.5 miles – Hay on Wye right Shallows below the bridge. Good public access on right bank 50 yards below the bridge. The campsite has no river access but is about 300 yds from the left bank below the bridge. Mr & Mrs Davies. Tel 01497 820780 Hay is the home of the largest second hand bookshop in the world as well as innumerable smaller ones, all congregating efficiently together under the influence of Adam Smith’s invisible hand! Penelope Chetwode, the writer (Two Middle-Aged Ladies in Andalucia) and wife of the poet laureate John Betjeman, lived nearby at New House in Cusop. 10.25 miles – Whitney toll bridge. I love toll bridges. Imagine the environmental benefit if all roads were toll roads! Land a few yards before the bridge on the left. £1 per canoe. 10.5 miles – Boat inn left. Camping 12 miles – Lockster’s pool. Camping right 16 miles – Turner’s boat. Camping. 19.5 miles – Bredwardine. Launch/land below bridge on left but ask permission first from Prue Cartwright 01981 500229 Bredwardine parish was the last living of Francis Kilvert before his death, a few weeks after he finally married. Peritonitis, not marriage was to blame. 20.5 miles – Brobury scar Sharp left hand bend beneath sandstone cliffs. The lower old red sandstones, known locally as the Raglan mudstone formation. 21.5 miles – Moccas Court right bank 22.5 miles – Byecross campsite right bank As you round the bend towards Monnington falls, look out for a posh house and a STRICTLY PRIVATE sign. Byecross is the next stretch of land. As soon as you see the Monnington falls island in front of you, land right. Byecross campsite, has toilets and a shower, road access to river and orchard. Open fires allowed as long as you use drift wood. Pub 3/4 mile. 22.75 miles – Monnington falls Land on gravel bank left about 50 yards above the rapids to inspect. The usual route is left of the island. Beware of fallen trees obstructing the route. Right of the island is only shootable in very high water. In very low water the right is dry. 23.5 miles – Preston Half a mile below the falls on the right bank. Campsite basic, just a tap, and a Portaloo from April-Oct, but great site (like Locksters Pool) if you like peace and quiet. Open fire allowed so long as you only use driftwood. Pub. NOTE Unless you are prepared to camp on an island or to use the Hereford Racecourse site, which is well back from the river, the next campsite is 20 miles downstream at Holme Lacey. 23.75 miles – Byford Free landing and launching on left bank 200yds below pumping station. No permission required but narrow road with no parking space. 28 miles – Weir gardens No weir. National Trust gardens left bank. Easy landing. A good place for a picnic. 33 miles – Hunderton railway bridge, now a footbridge 33.75 miles – Hereford Land right below the old road bridge. This is a public park with plenty of pay and display car parks. No permission required to land or launch but the nearest camping is at Hereford Race Course two miles from the river on the other side of town. Open April to September. Tel 01432 272634 Colin Wilkinson reports “Hereford Rowing club allow camping in their field, best to call first. You get use of their showers, pay at the bar, though they’re not sure of the price, we were charged £5 per head, the next couple £5 per tent. Excellent, as very close to town”. Headquarters of Bulmers cider. Market demand is leading the world’s largest cider company to promote organic cider and to encourage local apple farmers to change to organic methods 34.5 miles – railway bridge 35 miles – Bartonsham sewage outfall In 1988 this treatment works run by the Welsh Water Authority was the subject of questions in Parliament for failing pollution standards. Since privatisation it has been substantially upgraded and effluent quality has improved. 37 miles – Wye invader Look out for this 150ft Dutch barge beached on the right bank, a sharp reminder of the downside of a communal navigation right. It was somehow brought up river in 1990 to act as a floating restaurant. The process took nearly a year and would never have been allowed by private riparian owners. However it could not be stopped because of the ancient right of navigation. The owner even persuaded Hereford council that it would bring economic benefits to the river. In 1994 a group or motor boaters calling themselves the Wye Restoration Trust actually bid for £85M of EU and lottery money to dredge the river and install locks and weirs to repair the navigation. Fortunately such mad schemes have been stopped for the moment, but there will always be some danger when ancient right of navigation mix with loony councils who get captured by motor boating interests. The river cuts into the St Maughans formation of old red sandstone at two sharp left hand bends under cliffs at 40 and 41 miles. Holme Lacy village lies at the top of the latter cliff. Between the two bends the river has recently moved but the old cliffs mark its old course 42 miles – confluence with river Lugg 42.5 miles – Holme Lacey bridge Good landing point in the small orchard 100 yards below the bridge on left bank. It is for those using the camp-site, but the owners are very friendly so long as you ask nicely. Lucksall Caravan site has camping and all the showers, shops etc., anyone could want. They even do a special deal for canoeists. Open Easter to October. 51 miles – Hoarwithy Two campsites here. Tresseck farm reopened in 2003. Landing steps on right below the bridge. Portaloos. Open fires allowed with driftwood. Click here for their wonderful website with fine pictures of the river access. A grand site. Mr. Jenkins 400 yards below the bridge on the left is another super site but a longer walk into the village. To reach the village directly land on the right immediately below the bridge. It’s rather steep. ¼ mile to Hoarwithy. The New Harp Inn is a wonderful friendly pub. In 2003 the landlord let us camp for nothing so long as we drank his beer 57 miles – Hole in the wall Canoe centre with access on left bank just above rapid. Looks like you should be able to camp here but I’ve never tried. 61 miles – road bridge 61.25 miles rowing club left You can usually camp here, but do ask first. They’ll make a small charge if they remember what it is! 61.75 miles – Ross on Wye The main landing point is on the left bank below the Hope and Anchor pub but this is a public park and you can’t camp there. 62 miles – Wilton bridge It replaced an earlier wooden bridge. as well as at least one ferry. There was also a ford on the same site. It was originally a toll bridge. In my humble opinion the next stretch of river, Ross to Tintern, is the finest stretch of canoe touring in the world. Land right below the bridge. The old Wilton Wharfe is now common land in front of the White Lion. They allow camping with small tents only. Crowded on summer weekends, so best book. Tel 01989 562785 67.2 miles – Goodrich castle When I first canoed past here in the 1970s the castle stood on a grassy hill. I cannot find a picture from that time but others have confirmed my recollection. The hill is now so heavily wooded that views of the castle from the river are rather obscured. Just one example of the re forestation in Europe and North America. 67.5 miles – Kerne bridge. Don’t try landing at the bridge. The famous Kerne bridge duck race takes place every year on August bank holiday from the bridge to the excellent access point and picnic site ¼ mile below bridge on left bank.