WINTER 2009 the Editors

NEWSLETTER OF THE ANUThe MOUNTAINEERING EpicCLUB WINTER 2009 The Editors

The snow is getting softer and the weather is getting warmer, so what better time than now to relive all the fun and adventure the last few months in the Winter edition of EPIC.

This edition begins on a serious note with two articles discussing issues about the ANUMC constitution. To have your say on these issues, make sure you come along the the ANUMC AGM which will be on Wednesday October the 28th at 7pm in GO30. There will also be a free BBQ starting at 5:30pm in the Copland Courtyard.

This edition features trip reports from the many ski and snow shoe trips, as well as the winter bushwalking trips. Highlights include Richard Salmons’ photographic essay of his recent skiing on the Main Range (pg 16) and the Mid-Winter Feast (pg 24) which features poetry from Les Murray. As always we’ll be looking for new inclusions to the EPIC, so if you have an idea for a column, have put up a new climbing route, would like to share your favourite back country recipes or have a trip report, be sure to contact us.

So, when you’re off on your next trip, keep in mind sending in a contribution for the next edition of EPIC!

Lauren Bartsch

Lauren has recently signed up for 4 more years in Canberra and has fully embraced the Canberran lifestyle- by spending all her earnings on outdoor related gear! In between organising social events for ANUMC, editing the EPIC and going on bushwalking and skiing trips, Lauren finds time to study for her phD/masters degree. You’ll see Lauren about on bushwalks and falling over on skiing trips; just keep an eye out for the hot pink socks...and shirt....and soft shell...and her most recent addition- hot pink buff!

FIONA KNOx

Fiona has just moved to Canberra this year, and is keen to escape from her medicine degree as much as possible by heading bushwalking, cycling, skiing or any of the club activities. Outside of that she can be found in the lindt chocolate aisles of the local supermarket, or watching House and pretending she’s learning something.

there once was a club called ANUMC which runs heaps of trips-as you will see try one of them out, climb, ski, hang about, but remember, it's cold, take a fleecy Front and back covers: Cootapatamba landscapes by Richard Salmons Fiona Skerman 1 Contents

CONSTITUTIONAL AFFAIRS PG 3

MT JAGUNGAL PG 5

TO BUGGERY AND BACK PG 7

SAM’S 33 1/3 BIRTHDAY PG 10

WINTER SOLSTICE at TIN HUT PG 11

NEW FARM CREEK PG 14

SKIING ON THE MAIN RANGE PG 15

MID-WINTER FEAST PG 25

BDO SNOW PG 30

WINTER TRIP REPORTS PG 31

WILDERNESS WALKING PG 33

2 Constitutional Affairs Many, perhaps most, of the over three membership to call a General Meeting Clause 6 (viii) A vacant position in the hundred members of the ANUMC and dismiss any member of the Executive may be filled either by: possibly don’t know, or perhaps don’t Executive by a three-quarters majority (a) a unanimous vote of the particularly care, that their Club has vote. Although a two-thirds majority Executive a Constitution. While the ANUMC of a General Meeting is hard to achieve, (b) where the Executive is unable Constitution is readily available on the it can happen as it did when a General to reach a decision, a majority vote of a internet at http://anumc.anu.edu.au/ Member was dismissed in 2008. A two- General Meeting of the Club files/constitution.pdf it seems likely thirds majority vote is also required to (c) a unanimous vote of the that only a minority of members are change the Constitution, thus making it Executive under Clause (viii) (a) takes familiar with its provisions. Fewer still difficult to weaken the provisions of the effect seven days after the decision has seem to appreciate how significantly Constitution. been notified to the membership, unless a the Constitution governs the way the General Meeting has been petitioned for ANUMC operates, including who gets to Until earlier this year there was another under Clause 9 (ii). make binding decisions that impact on safeguard, namely a provision that the all current and even future members. office of President, if vacated, could And for the record, Clause 9 (ii) states only be filled by a vote of a General that “A General Meeting may also be The Constitution defines the objectives Meeting. In April 2009, however, a called by presentation of a petition of 5 of the ANUMC, defines membership poorly attended General Meeting members to the Executive.” and perhaps most important of all voted by the narrowest of margins governs how, and by whom, the to drop this provision. The case for Proposed changes to the Constitution ANUMC is run. Constitutionally, all doing so was based on a view that will be considered and voted on at power in the ANUMC is vested in an replacing a President who resigned the AGM on the 28th of October. All Executive of seven members (the would be simpler if the Executive could available ANUMC members should President, Vice-President, Secretary, do without the bothersome need to attend and vote. After all, ensuring Treasurer, Social Officer, and two consult members and call a General these safeguards is vitally important for General Members). Four members Meeting. the healthy future of the Club. While of the Executive is a quorum. Thus the integrity of the current Executive the Executive, or just four members The problem with this change is that it is unquestioned, who can say of those of the Executive, can decided and now enables as few as four members of who will come after them? enforce what is done or not done in the Executive, meeting as a quorum, to the ANUMC, how the ANUMC spends disregard the views of the membership Mika Kontiainen its money, how the ANUMC’s extensive and decide who will be President. Too ANUMC Bushwalking Officer and Life gear store is used, and can dismiss any bad if a candidate, who received 49% Member member of the Committee. of the membership’s vote at the AGM, still wanted to be President. So sad if Given that considerable power is the majority of the membership would concentrated in the hands of a few, rather see this, or any other candidate, it is fortunate that the Constitution as President, rather some ring-in mate has numerous safeguards against of the Executive. mismanagement and hidden personal agendas. These safeguards are no A simple, but effective way of not accident. As befitting such a charter, only restoring but reinforcing the old the ANUMC Constitution was carefully safeguard would be to provide the crafted over the years with the membership with the power of veto considered input of many wise past and the right to demand a General and present members. In drafting Meeting to vote on the matter before (and occasionally amending) the any appointment to the Executive takes Constitution these dedicated members effect. sought to protect the integrity of the ANUMC. In Constitutional terms this could be simply achieved by inserting the The first safeguard is that the following new underlined clause into Executive has to be re-elected by the the Constitution: membership each year at the Annual General Meeting (AGM). A second safeguard includes the provision for the 3 Constitutional Affairs At a general meeting in April 2009 a students (undergrad or post grad proposed change to the election of a serving on the Executive; or there new President was passed in the should be a minimum of 3 students event of a vacancy. This allowed the (undergrad or post grad) serving on the position of President to be elected by Executive. unanimous vote of the Executive where previously the vacancy had to A three quarters majority voted that the be voted on at a General meeting. This clause specifying the breakdown of was amended for the following reasons: students and non students serving on the position of President is an Executive the Executive should be changed - position and it was deemed that the however there was not a three quarters rules of the Executive should apply majority vote for specific changes to the equally for the President as for other clause. There was general agreement Executive positions. The Executive has that this should be put forward been voted in by club members at the again at the next AGM where a larger AGM. They have already been entrusted representational base can vote on this by club members to make sound proposal. decisions on behalf of the club. The constitution can be viewed at This amendment was only with regards http://anumc.anu.edu.au/files/ to a vacancy. Each year a new Executive constitution.pdf and we would will be elected at the AGM, but welcome any feedback on proposed occasionally an elected Executive changes to the constitution before any member may have to withdraw due to changes are put forward at the next various commitments such as work or AGM on Wed 28 October 2009 travel. If there is a vacancy, nominations from the previous AGM are reviewed Steph Goodrick and a call for nominations is also invited ANUMC President from the club. Any club member can put forward their nomination to be considered for an Executive position.

There is still a provision in the constitution that allows for 5 club members to propose a GM to vote on an issue. A constitution amendment requires a 3 quarters majority vote, with a minimum of 20% of club members or 20 club members, which ever is the lesser, voting on the issue.

At the last General meeting in April there was a proposed amendment to change the breakdown of students and non students serving on the executive. Currently our constitution states that at least four (4) Executive Committee members shall be full time or part time students at the Australian National University at the time of their election, with at least one (1) being an undergraduate and one (1) a post graduate (clause 6.iii). There were two alternatives proposed: there should be a minimum of 2 4 Mt Jagungal TONY PRCEVICH

(Munyang by Mic & we were on our way by 8am. into the creek attempting to cross it Friday The visibility was terrible, about 20m, but luckily I had my hard heavy plastic PowerStation– Schlink Hilton) and I was glad that Ray had been boots which assisted in my foot not After a few emails back and forward there regularly and that he had a GPS. getting too wet. Eventually after taking from Ray Vran and myself, I thought Around 2pm we got to Mawson’s hut. a running jump I got across (the others I knew what I was getting myself I broke the basket on my stock with got across on skis with no problems). I into. After hiring some hard plastic about 1km to go to Mawson’s hut, that arrived at the top for the picturesque boots (the only ones that fit me at the was fixed with a lot of strapping tape 360˚ views of the snowy mountains. It ANUMC) with skinny skis, I was told I and a metal grate which we found at was fantastic. would get blisters by everyone around. I the hut. The weather was still rubbish mitigated this risk by placing copious and I thought that we had no chance The wind was increasing (and not amounts of strapping tape on my of getting up Jagungal let alone being because I am lactose intolerant) so we ankles. We left at about 1800 on able to see anything. Ray and Mic quickly took some photos and headed Friday night from Ray’s house (the first were more optimistic as the weather back down. Crossing the creek was less navigation exercise) and headed for report stated there would be a change eventful and much more pleasant this Munyang power station, and got down overnight and that the visibility would time for me. After a quick bite to eat we there in record time. We started on a clear up. I cranked up the pot belly in headed towards Schlink Hilton. Had a beautiful clear evening heading up the the hut and settled in reading the hut quick break there and then headed on hill towards Schlink Pass. The snow was visitors book and eating as much as I home. The snow turned a bit icy on top soft and fresh and we were able to turn could. which made turning difficult (for me our headlamps off and ski under moon at least) but we made it back to the car light. We got to Schlink Hilton just after at about 1830, absolutely wrecked but midnight, had a hot drink blister free. and snack and went to bed. Sunday (Mawson’s Hut– Jagungal– Munyang Power Many thanks to Ray Vran and Mic Station) Cavazzini for a fantastic weekend. Saturday (Schlink Hilton – Someone woke me up early and we Jagungal was described to me as the Mawson’s Hut) headed outside to a beautiful still clear premier mountain to climb in the A bit of a sleep in was had due to day. We had definitely struck it lucky. Snowy Mountains and I am inclined to the late night. Breakfast consisted of So another quick breakfast of porridge agree. If you are thinking about giving it porridge and chocolate cooked up and skiing the 8km to Jagungal. I fell a go – do it. 5 Mt Jagungal

Tony and Ray

Repaired Ski Stock

Tony and Ray 6 To Buggery and BackNIC BENDELI An ANUMC trip to the Victorian Alps three turns. It was not a fair winter trip walk. Eventually on top of Mt Lovick middle of August 2009 because there was no snow. Buggery we skied for a while. In the meantime 2 - Nic 0. the weather was deteriorating and the I first heard of Mt Buggery at a club snow again became thin. We looked social meeting. Friends of mine were This year I planned a trip there in the at the trip unfolding in front of us. going skiing. "Hey guys, where are you middle of August to benefit from the We looked at the steep slopes. We going?" "We are off to Buggery ! ? " deepest cover of snow. Two mates looked at the deep saddles between Since then, Buggery in winter always joined in. Graham and Rod were ex the peaks. We looked at the lack of had a special fascination for me. The ANUMC members and had solid depth snow. We looked at the thick timber. photo on top of the sign with snow of experience after decades in the We looked at the fact that we had skis around is irresistible. outdoors. The team was strong, the instead of snowshoes. We looked in timing right. We had to succeed. dismay at our prospects. We looked at I have tried many times to get there in how unenjoyable it was and decided winter - and summer too. The first try We walked in this time via The Bluff. to retreat to the Bogong High Plains was winter 1976. Buggery 1- Nic 0. In Walking in was appropriate as there instead. Buggery 3 - Nic 0. the meantime schools changed from was no snow. At the top of The Bluff, three terms to four terms per year and we attached skis and gingerly skied on The following day we were touring completely destroyed skiing in the a thin cover for a couple of kilometres on the BHPlains. Hut to hut touring middle of winter. The second try was and then removed the ski for the final following the incredible Victorian winter 2000. I walked in and out all the descent to the hut. The scene looked navigation pole lines. The weather way. No snow. There was one patch of bare. Minimal snow. The following day had closed in and visibility about 50 snow along the way and I managed we continued to walk, and walk, and m. We enjoyed the snow at the higher

7 To Buggery and Back altitudes and the comfort of close by a hero. We returned to Falls Creek via around our ears. We left the packs there huts. Mt McKay nordic trails thence along and continued to the summit. Once to Cloud Nine for a descent on the back at the crossroads it was a real Friday was the last day on the BHP alpine slopes to the car. A great day and debate on whether to continue to Cleve and we were hoping that the weather the whole episode much more skiing Cole hut or to descend via the Staircase. would improve enough to ski up the worthwhile than antagonising around I was concerned in case the snow pack Niggerheads. The Niggerheads rise Buggery. froze. The slopes draining Bogong are 200m above Tawonga huts. They convex and can be deadly once frozen. provide a wonderful belvedere onto We still had two days to go and decided We decided to continue to Cleve Cole. Mt Feathertop and adjoining peaks. a tentative plan to ascend Mt Bogong The decision was justified as visibility During the night, the clouds parted, on Saturday and Mt Feathertop on improved and the wind decreased. a hard frost occurred and dawn rose Sunday, pending weather conditions We arrived at the hut after doing some in brilliant light and clear skies. We of course. The weather was bright really nice turns on spring corn. A quick preferentially walked up to the summits and calm as we started the trail onto coffee. A quick lunch. A quick chat with since it was more energy efficient to do the Staircase Spur around 08:00hrs. the locals. A quick look at the log book. so rather than try to ski. By the time we We eventually arrived at the snowline, A quick photo and we were gone. Back were ready to descend, the surface had changed to ski boots and continued up towards Bogong and down the started to thaw with wonderful spring in increasing wind and decreasing Eskdale spur. The descent proved to corn snow. You could say "hero" snow. visibility. By the time we arived at the be the best ski of the trip. "Hero snow" Corn snow is so nice that it makes you crosstracks of those wonderful Victorian in the mid afternoon in a spectacular feel like a hero descending incredible snow pole lines, the visibility was setting. The spur was initially a broad slopes with maximal control. Just like around 40m and the wind whistling face which gradually narrowed to a thin

Mt Bogong

8 To Buggery and Back

ridge. Care had to be taken to stay on top of the ridge and not ski over the cornices on the right or fall into the gullies on the left. All too soon we were at Wallaces hut, changed to joggers and continued down the road and arriving at the car at 18:00hrs. Feathertop? We decided against it. The weather forecast was inclement with predictions of storms, wind, poor visibility. Instead we returned to Canberra one day ahead of schedule and contented with the exprience of a great trip.

Buggery? I will have to try again another winter. In summer the walking track is evident and the score is Buggery 0 - Nic 3. Top: Buggery, Bogong, Feathertop Above right: Nic at signs Winter? Buggery 3 - Nic 0 crosscut Below: Eskdale Above left: Graham (Feather top Razor- Schi heil backs in distance)

9 Sam’s 331/3rd birthdayMARIT KRAGT

On the first weekend of August, a crew A morning tea stop was called for at Dave and Finn for digging two snow- of 8 ANUMC adventurers joined Kylie Horse Camp hut, adding delicious walls. and Sam to celebrate Sam’s 33 and a banana bread and an extra kilometre third years of existence on this ‘fun park to the trip. Further up the hill we went, We feasted in the hut, on mulled wine, of a planet’ (Kylie’s words). passing White’s River Hut and battling couscous, curries and a variety of increasing winds and icy fire-trails. desserts involving lots of chocolate and Fortunately, none of us showed up in Lucky for us, the weather didn’t break, rice-pudding. bikinis on Friday night, when we drove and we got to the hut by the end of the up for a windy night at Island Bend. On afternoon. Schlink is a gorgeous hut, After a long and cosy warm night in Saturday, we drove up to the Guthega with four rooms, table, stove, and even our tents, we had another lazy start Power Station where no snow was to some moth ridden beds. Having come on Sunday. Both the weather and the be seen, so we had to walk up the hill up to sleep in the snow, we set up our terrain had much improved, with blue with our skis and backpacks to find the tents rather than sleep in the hut. The skies and lots of downhill skiing. I was white powdery goodness. About 500 snow was perfectly sticky to build a quite pleased by how well I managed to metres later (i.e. higher), we donned massive igloo-wall around each tent to do my turns carrying a heavy backpack. our long splines and started skiing. protect it from the cold winds. Kudos to I’m already looking forward to the next Kosi feast!

Couscous cook-off?

Couscous is an excellent choice for light-weight tasty dinners. Mix it with your favourite (dried) veggies, dried fruits and nuts. Pour boiling water over the mixture, let it set for a couple of minutes and you’re done. Too easy! Two couscous salads were prepared for Sam’s birthday feasting. Try them out next time you’re out there.

Couscous a la Marit Separately mix some dried peas and corn (separate to boil up a bit). Mix couscous with almonds, raisins, ginger-powder, coriander, cinnamon, salt, pepper and sundried tomatoes (the ANU food co op has an ideal lightweight variety).

Couscous a la Finn Mix couscous with currants, walnuts, dried apricots and powdered parmesan. Spice mix with cinnamon, coriander and cumin. 10 at Tin Hut Winter Solstice KIRILL TALANINE

Heading back up Mt Gungartan

It was the shortest day of the year, but Mika, when he heard the plan, did not ensued, as we slipped and slid like the route was long. Sixteen kilometers discourage us, but no doubt he sported people who definitely did not want to on snowshoes, a 700 metre ascent. a mischievous smile as we parted ways: have photos of what they are doing up Starting at the gargantuan Gungartan we covered half the distance in twice on Facebook. (Un)fortunately no photos power station at Munyang and forging the time. of this incident survived. up the wild Munyang River valley to the windswept saddle of Schlink pass, After stopping at Horse Camp Hut before climbing to Mt. Gungartan’s for a mini-snow-man-building break, Lesson 3: Navigation and the icy pinnacle and finally navigating we donned our snowshoes. Some peerless night. through the labyrinthine cornices to kilometres, a lunch break, and a gentle Tin Hut. But forgive me for this terrible climb later we stood at Schlink Pass, a A quick group photo on the summit of hyperbole, for this was the first trip of bare and wind scoured place, but with Mt. Gungartan was all the celebration my snowshoeing career, and things wonderful views into the valleys north we had time for upon reaching the top. always seem epic the first time round. and south. Twilight was falling fast, and Tin Hut There were plenty of lessons to learn was still an hour away. We travelled fast. along the way, on this first snowshoeing Fast enough, in fact, to probably have trip of the season, a few of which I think Lesson 2: Ascents and the toppled over several cornices that were are worth recording here. ancient art of cutting steps. now almost invisible in the fading light, had Mika not spotted them in the nick It was time to depart the trail and of time. We were above the tree line Lesson 1: Route setting and ascend towards Mt. Gungartan, which here, and the high backcountry was how not to do it. still lay hidden behind a ridge to the stunningly surreal. The sight didn’t last east. It was the steepest part of our long. Head torches came out, and were We were winding up the ascending route, but the snow was pleasant and quickly followed by total darkness. aqueduct trail that runs north of the the views increasingly gorgeous. It was power station. Nick, Jennifer and I were now that the snowshoes really came This was the winter solstice. The moon ahead, Mika, Bill and Lauren further into their own. Rather than sinking was new, so we had no moonlight. back. Waiting where the trail forked, we waist-deep in the soft snow, we could The clouds were thick, so we had no leading three concocted a time-saving wander as we wanted! Soon we were starlight. It was truly pitch black. This, plan. The trail we had planned to follow metres away from the summit, but Mika decided, would be a great time curled southwards before proceeding faced with the choice of a steep and to play a game to see how well we north. We reasoned to save time by icy rock ascent, or a steep and powdery could orient ourselves. The results cutting straight northwest, through snow ascent For those that took the ranged from close to cautionary and the seemingly pleasant snowgums. snow route, a lesson in step cutting the fact that the hut was less than 11 Winter Solstice 12 Winter Solstice at Tin Hut 200 meters away was known only to truly a rodent of unusual size. And stream bank, and everyone else forded Mika. Fortunately for the rest of us, he the story that told of it trying to eat a over the rocks and splashed in the frigid eventually divulged its whereabouts. sleeping traveller’s beanie, while he water taking photos. was still wearing it, suggested a fearless Lesson 4: Huts and the Rat disposition. I for one was glad we had The rest of the day passed slowly, of Legend. brought tents, as we hung up our pack the east aqueduct trail running ever on the hooks in the middle of the room. onwards towards the power station. The warm fire and the cheerful I didn’t particularly want to meet this The views matched the mood; the company made the hut a favourable Rat or his lesser ratty kin. No doubt valley seemed so serene and timeless, alternative to the prospect of cooking he lurks there still, preying at night on the lengthening shadows bringing out in the wind and rain, which we had so hapless wanderers and their beanie every imaginable shade of dark blue. nearly realised. Snow melted in pots pompoms. above the fire and the smells of rice and We reached the cars (though not salmon filled the air. We were tired. We Lesson 5: Home. before rescuing a stockless skier, had come a long way. But there was still wearing some exceeding colourful time before retiring to read from the It fills you with energy to know you’re pants) and collapsed. We stopped for hut guestbook the tales of the pseudo- returning home. And it seemed like the obligatory pizza in Cooma. And legendary Rat of Tin Hut. everyone in our party had a spring in we were home. It was a tiring trip, but their step, even as the trip’s first snow also beautiful and satisfying. My thanks The Rat (as opposed to rat) had fell, wet and slushy. Before long we had go out to Bill, Lauren, Nick, Jenn and apparently developed quite the stopped for lunch in the Munyang River especially our leader Mika for making reputation with the human residents Valley, near Whites River Hut. Mika and this trip so thoroughly enjoyable! of the hut. The descriptions, and one Lauren had gone to explore the hut, very fine diagram, suggested this was while Jenn, Bill and Nick relaxed by the Photos Far left: Lauren concentrating on a creek crossing Left: Nic and Bill enjoying lunch Bottom left: Mika, Nick and Jenn Bottome Middle: Mika making it look easy Bottom Right: Jenn and Mika consult the map

13 New Farm Creek ALANA WILKES Having been bitten by the ski bug on our surroundings. Then a steeper climb previous beginner trips, Anne, Jenn, could not be avoided. Herringbone Deciana and myself were keen to was no longer adequate and it took practice our skills off-trail. A day trip to quite a time to reach Paralyser Trig, Guthega, led by Richard, was just the with most of us messing up many of ticket. our kick turns and sliding part way back down the slope. After a herculean Jenn navigated us through the busy effort we reached the trig, abandoned resort and along one of the trails until our skis and explored, before enjoying we reached Blue Cow Creek. After lunch and the warm contents of carefully making our way across, thermoses in a hollow beside a rock, managing [barely] not to lose our trying to keep out of the strengthening footing or drop a ski into the creek, the wind. navigational reins were handed over to Deciana. We were taken around The trip back down the slope looked the side of Back Perisher Mountain, daunting, but before we knew it we steps using a technique apparently referred were zig-zagging down in a relatively down the to as ‘sidling’ in mountaineering controlled fashion, making steeper bits to ensure circles, through the snow-clad gums use of snow ploughs, the the next trip across the until a campsite on the bank of New occasional kick turn slope wasn’t too precipitous. Farm Creek made the perfect spot for and Excitedly reaching the bottom morning tea. [if Richard of the hill in one piece, it was back wasn’t down the creekline, around the After following the creek, now buried looking] mountain and over Blue Cow Creek by snow, upstream to the base of a few (this time not all feet stayed dry). We The Paralyser, we peered through the side made our way back through the resort mist at the slope ahead of us. Now in feeling, and hopefully appearing, a lot Anne’s hands, we started our ascent up more confident than the morning! It a relatively gentle slope through trees was then back to Canberra, stopping adorned with melting icicles, for well-deserved pizza and hot drinks with the sound of masses along the way. Many thanks go to of ice occasionally Richard for leading a great trip. falling from the trees the only break in the still silence of

Deciana, Jenn, Anna and Alana 14 Main Range SkiingRICHARD SALMONS Richard, Gabriela, Dom & Mark's trip to Cootapatamba, near Mt Kosciuszko on the Main Range, 8-9 August 2009. Our campsite was just under the Ramshead out from Thredbo, and we spent the weekend skiing down into the Cootapatamba valley and Leatherbarrel Creek in the shadow of the imposing Kosciuszko Cornice. We summitted Kosci on skis - despite dreadful ice on the peak - and skied down as quickly as we could, finding beautiful fresh snow on the lower slopes. The lower slopes on Leatherbarrel Creek are especially recommended. The campsite is also a convenient location with nice views - but at about 2100m, be prepared for cold nights. I enjoyed a nice drink from my water bottle after I'd first chipped out a centimetre of ice that formed during the evening. All in all, a nice taste of the Main Range, and planning more for September.

Gabriela on the Main Range 15 Sun and moon rise on the Main Range

Sun rises on the Main Range 16 Dom and Mark check the navigation

Mark turning steeply on club tele gear 17 Gabriela turning on steep ice on the Main Range

Steep runs from the Ramshead 18 Skiing down to Cootapatamba Hut

Gabriela with Leatherbarrel Creek behind 19 Main Range campsite evening

Afternoon views on Main Range 20 Returning to camp at end of the day 22 23 2009 Mid-Winter FeastINGRID PARKER Photos BEN DAVIES Gooandra and the Serenity “Why is there a why?” James’ colossal us followed Zac along the 5km fire at last, ‘we few, we happy few, we question continues to puzzle me trail, the other half followed Zac’s band of brothers’ got down to the as I transition from the natural and second-in-command (Mika) taking earthy business of collecting wood philosophical wilderness of the a slightly longer, more scenic route and water. And of course, every Happy ANUMC mid-winter feast to my along the ridge line. The absence Camper’s dream: putting up the tents!! own bedroom. Led by the highly of snow at this altitude and time of My dark side started to show through experienced and somewhat bossy year was unseasonable and made for as I struggled hopelessly with what 7-year-old mountaineer Sakari, a group a slightly less wintery atmosphere; seemed like a large orange crossed of twelve adventurers (predominantly however, it did make the walk easier with a space-ship. Always the Happy physicists) set out for the historic alpine than expected. Veering off the fire Camper, Ben lent a helping hand by homestead ‘Gooandra.’ Built in 1913 trail and following an overgrown path taking photos of me in my distress by grazier Fred Lampe, Gooandra is down into a valley, we were welcomed (bottom and all). As we settled down about 15km north of Kiandra and is the by a restored 1930s weatherboard for a sumptuous evening meal in the oldest standing structure in Kosciusko homestead nestled amongst the Black warm glow of fire and candlelight, the National Park. The purpose of the trip? Sallees. The stench of Australian history, conversation touched on the weird, Food, wine and good ol’ fashioned pastoralists, brumbies and romance the wonderful and the downright dirty. festive merriment ensconced in the nearly knocked me over! It was all I Mika, Emma, Zac, Julia, James, Kate, splendours of nature. Somewhat less could do not to swoon on the spot and Charlotte, Katanya, Geoff, Martin, Ben expected were the conversations that hope that the Man from Snowy River and I managed to transcend space and peppered our excursion – but more of would ride past, collect me in his strong time... and the other dimensions... in that later. arms and carry me away to live a life of less than 24 hours: After a 3hr drive through Namadgi brumby-catching, damper-baking, billy Quantum physics; the pros and cons and Kiandra, we arrived on the Kiandra tea-drinking, baby-making heaven... of The Australian Male species; The Plain at the Gooandra fire trail ready apologies for the digression. Four Forces of the Universe; ‘String for the brisk walk to the hut. Half of Joined by Mika and the Lone Rangers Theory’; ‘Spin Theory’; history (Truth

25 Mid-Winter Feast 2009 Mid-Winter Feast 2009 or Big Fat Fiction?); the 15 different all poetry. Try as he might, he could particular landscape has been the visual Aussie slang phrases for ‘having sex’; no longer recollect the words of the and poetic backbone of the collective all things supernatural, paranormal or poem and so recoiled, speechless and Australian Bush Legend. Not only is it a metaphysical (again, Truth or Big Fat horrified at the impending tyranny of landscape that fired the imaginations Fiction?); nudity, nude beaches and the Poetry Nazi. of formative Australian poets such as nude photography; the problem with Despite this, the combined force Banjo Patterson and Henry Lawson, pencils; the habits of French women of the twelve personalities in that it is also historically a place that has and hair-removal; and finally, the sacred cosy candlelit hut made for a truly witnessed brutal colonial injustices and art of poetry. memorable mid-winter feast. It did try environmental devastation. Unfortunately, the tyranny of poetry to snow for us and we were all very Therefore, if I am to express my feelings lurked in the shadows and pounced grateful for the valiant attempt, but about this landscape, allow me to unexpectedly. Accompanied by the it got exhausted fairly quickly and use the words of Australia’s best poet warm inner glow of red wine and James’ decided to rain heavily instead. One by (which is Les Murray, in case you didn’t excellent port, Mika nobly began his one, we drifted away to our tents and know... and yes, I AM the poetry Nazi!) recitation of Banjo Patterson’s ‘The Man fell asleep to the sound of wind and rain From Snowy River’ only to be cruelly (except for Katanya who was unable deflated by the obsessive ranting of an to sleep and was then inexplicably unbearably obnoxious “Arts” graduate. smacked in the face by an unknown, Mika’s eyes bulged at the unreasonable unseen Force). and outlandish demands of the poetry Ever since my first adolescent visit to Harpy – nay, poetry Nazi! Poor Mika the Snowy Mountains with my parents, composed himself after the violent this particular part of the country verbal onslaught and attempted to has captured my imagination with its continue his recitation only to find that rugged beauty, its history, its poetry he had been robbed of all speech and and its brumbies. In many ways, this

Gooandra 26 Noonday Axeman by Les Murray

Axe-fall, echo and silence. Noonday silence. Two miles from here, it is the twentieth century: cars on the bitumen, powerlines vaulting the farms. Here, with my axe, I am chopping into the stillness.

Axe-fall, echo and silence. I pause, roll tobacco, Twist a cigarette, lick it. All is still. I lean on my axe. A cloud of fragrant leaves Hangs over me moveless, pierced everywhere by sky.

Here, I remember all of a hundred years: candleflame, still night, frost and cattle bells, the draywheels’ silence final in our ears, and the first red cattle spreading through the hills

and my great-great-grandfather here with his first sons, who would grow old, still speaking with his Scots accent, having never seen those highlands that they sang of. A hundred years. I stand and smoke in silence.

A hundred years of clearing, splitting, sawing, a hundred years of timbermen, ringbarkers, fencers and women in kitchens, stoking loud iron stoves year in, year out, and singing old songs to their children

have made this silence human and familiar no farther than where the farms rise into foothills, and, in that time, how many have sought their graves or fled to the cities, maddened by this stillness?

... (forgive me, Les Murray, for editing your poem)

Axe-fall, echo and silence. It will be centuries before many men are truly at home in this country, and yet, there have always been some, in each generation, there have always been some who could live in the presence of silence.

And some, I have known then, men with gentle broad hands, who would die if removed from these unpeopled places, some again I have seen, bemused and shy in the cities, you have built against silence, dumbly trudging through noise

past the railway stations, looking up through the traffic at the smoky halls, dreaming of journeys, of stepping down from the train at some upland stop to recover the crush of dry grass underfoot, the silence of trees.

Axe-fall, echo and silence. Dreaming the silence. Though I myself run to the cities, I will forever be coming back here to walk, knee-deep in ferns, up and away from this metropolitan century,

to remember my ancestors, axemen, dairymen, horse- breakers, now coffined in silence, down with their beards and dreams, who, unwilling or rapt, despairing or very patient, made what amounts to a human breach in the silence, 27 made of their lives the rough foundation of legends – men must have legends, else they will die of strangeness – then died in their turn, each, after his own fashion, resigned or agonized, from silence into great silence.

Axe-fall, echo and axe-fall. Noonday silence. Though I go to the cities, turning my back on these hills, for the talk and dazzle of cities, for the sake of belonging for months and years at a time to the twentieth century,

the city will never quite hold me. I will be always coming back here on the up-train, peering, leaning out of the window to see, on far-off ridges, the sky between the trees, and over the racket of the rails to hear the echo and the silence.

I shoulder my axe and set off home through the stillness. 1965

And while we didn’t exactly shoulder axes, we shouldered lighter packs and somewhat heavy hearts on our walk back to the twentieth century. On climbing to the peak of the Mt Gooandra ridge (1522m) on our way home and looking back to the Eucumbene River and Kiandra plain below, Ben asked me, ‘What is the most apt quote for this (pointing to the view) right now?’ As I tried to find some poxy, snotty nosed poet to quote, Ben answered his own question: ‘Haow’s the serenidy?’ Hmmm, I couldn’t have put it better myself Ben, even though I’ve wasted 1,400 words trying.

Kate The intrepid leaders: Mika and Sakari Martin

28 Mid-Winter Feast 2009

29 2009 ALANA WILKES & TOM GLEESON Mid-Winter Feast BDO SnowThis year the BDO2009 Snow country skiing, starting with morning Trip was run on the lessons with Wilderness Sports. They weekend of 25/26 July. made ‘windmills’, careered out of The focus was on getting control down slopes that were pretty beginners down to the much flat, discovered it is quite possible snow and introducing to fall over while standing still, got the them to two of the club’s hang of snowploughs and were quick popular winter activities to master the art of getting back on – cross-country skiing their feet after a fall! and snowshoeing. Four After practicing near the Nordic shelter, leaders and twelve they headed a bit further a field on the beginners undertook trails near Perisher to refine their skills, the Friday night drive also learning some new ones – the to Island Bend; most herringbone, staking and of course, kick arriving at the Island turning. Some of the more adventurous Bend picnic area, had a go at telemarking, one managing others arriving at to pull the cable binding out of her Island Bend proper ski as she performed a perfect turn – all reunited in the at high speed (or did it just happen morning though! while she was standing in the snow The groups were split watching someone else being brave? in two; half headed Ah, details….) off to go snowshoeing After lunch and a well-deserved warm with Tom and Steph drink in the Nordic shelter, Richard and up the Guthega Ridge Matt took their ducklings back out for towards Consett another session on the Perisher trails. Stephens Pass, whilst They practiced all the skills learnt in the the other group received morning on the gentle slopes before cross-country skiing peering cautiously down the steeper lessons at Perisher and one, contemplating how they could then spent an afternoon get down in one piece. It seemed that on the Nordic trails with there were several options – to weave Richard and Matt. We all down with a series of wide, graceful regrouped at Island Bend for snow plough turns, to aim straight dinner on the Saturday night, down the slope and whiz to the bottom save for a few daring telemark at lightning speed, or for most, to use skiers who stayed at Perisher a snail’s pace combination of zigzags, for some night skiing, showing clumsy kick turns and side steps around those pesky alpine skiers and the obstacles. All in all a great time arrogant snow-boarders a thing or was had, with a lot being learnt and no two about telemark style. doubt the club has found itself some The groups swapped over for the new free-heel converts. Sunday; the snowshoers again Special thanks go to Richard Salmons started out from Guthega but this and Matt Yager for their patient time headed south along the Snowy leadership and enthusiasm in guiding River towards Illawong Lodge and beginners for the weekend. Thanks also the suspension bridge. After perfect to the drivers and the other leaders who weather conditions the previous were there to help with the smooth day, capricious Huey hid the sun running of the trip – Lauren Bartsch and behind dark clouds and sent cold Kylie Mulligan get special mention for biting winds on the Sunday. Even their assistance. so, the snowshoers enjoyed the day and were glad to reach the Photo: Annette taking off at the bakery in Jindabyne for a hot beginner ski lessons. drink later in the afternoon. Photo taken by Richard Salmons As for the skiers, beginners were given a taste of cross 30 Winter Trip Reports

Dead Horse Snowshoe cline at first before a slight plateau, then to head back down to our vehicles. Lyn Massey pushing onwards and upwards towards Trustingly, we plunged shin deep into our goal, the summit. We took in a the powder, the snowshoes offering Dashing through the snow short side-trip to appreciate a trickling enough traction to prevent us from slid- On our two feet open “shoes” creek nestled in the snow, and were ing uncontrollably down the slope. A Over hills we go hoping to glimpse the owner of the little skill and balance were required to Taking in the views … four legged impressions forging its own stay upright however, but we all man- trail off into the distance, but were not aged a fun and playful descent without Such is the versatility that snowshoe- fortunate enough to do so. Our only incident. ing allows … not only were we able to other company encountered along the Like all good things, the outing came to effortlessly (well, seemingly effortlessly way was a lone cross country skier who an end all too soon and before we knew for most) scale a snow-clad “mountain” had gotten a much earlier start than us it we were dressing down, stowing our but we were also able to take our time as she had already had half a dozen or gear and heading home for Canberra. and absorb the wintery beauty sur- so runs down from the top. The general consensus seemed to be rounding us, the snowshoes providing Reaching the summit around 90 min- that if you get the opportunity to try it, plenty of stability for great photo op- utes later, we were rewarded for our snowshoeing offers a great alternative portunities as we ascended. efforts with a stunning 360 degree vista to other winter outdoor pursuits and Early Sunday morning we all met at encompassing the Main Range, Mt Kos- should be tried at least once before you Mika’s place for a quick gear check - and ciusko, Thredbo Valley and the Snowy die. If you enjoy bushwalking and/or sound advice from Mika’s young son River all the way around to the snow- want to experience the fun and beauty Sakari - before heading off, detouring as clad Victorian alps. The sunlight played of getting out in amongst the snow custom would have it via a Jindabyne upon the snow and melting ice which without hurtling at great speed towards bakery, to Dead Horse Gap (1582m) exposed and contrasted artistically with unknown destinies on various forms where we began our expedition to the the rugged contours of the rocky peaks. of “sliders”, snowshoeing is definitely top of South Rams Head (~2050m). The natural beauty of the environment worth a go. Most of us had little or no experience in was so inviting that one of our party, a Thanks once again to Mika for organis- the joys of snowshoeing, and we were Dane, was almost persuaded to strike ing the trip – and for the great weather all surprised and delighted to find that a potentially compromising pose in and company. our trip leader had arranged excellent the name of creative photography but conditions for us – sunny with some modesty, and a light bulb moment of A Jog Up Gingera high cloud, a balmy -2 to 0 degree understanding Australian directness, Christopher Lee temperature variance, only a slight prevailed. breeze at higher altitude, and best of all, We spent an hour or so having lunch Earlier in the week, I had sent a semi- a blanket of pristine dry powder snow and generally exploring the moun- declination email to Nic B, regarding atop a firm compacted base. tain top, comparing various vantage his excruciatingly long “ski training jog” After a quick introduction to the points, and some eager beavers even that I had enthusiastically signed up workings of our equipment we set off tried their hand at (semi-successfully) for. In the end however Nic graciously through an enchanting naked snow building a snow cave. After almost accepted me into his group of ultra-ath- gum forest encountering a gentle in- two hours near the summit, it was time lete mountaineers, and on Sunday, we 31 Winter Trip Reports were to climb Mount Gingera under the Winter 2009 Bushwalking Budawangs. Seven trip leaders, Alana, conclusion that I would “most likely” be Mika Kontiainen Linda, Kathryn, Rob, Nic, Ray and I, have able to complete the planned course. ANUMC Bushwalking Officer run these trips. My thanks goes to my As I am not one to complain, and an in- fellow trip leaders for taking the time different acceptor of life’s gifts, marked Despite the cold and lure of the snow, and the effort to safely take others, both the date on my calendar. During the and perhaps in the case of snowshoe- beginners and the experienced, out week our group had grown to three, on ing because of it, this year’s winter bush and sharing with them the beauty Saturday night it lost one member, and season has been a popular one for and the challenges of the Australian early Sunday morning Nic and I depart- bushwalking. In the three months (13 bush in winter. If you too would like to ed to the Namadgi for our long jog. weekends) of June, July and August an lead an ANUMC bushwalking trip this impressive range of 11 bushwalking spring, please contact me and I’d be The view from the summit was sublime, and four snowshoeing ANUMC trips happy to help you make it happen. an overcast day turned into a chiar- have been run, with an average of eight oscuro panorama now that we were participants on each trip. Two out of South coast winter solstice above the lower clouds. We completed three trips have been hugely popular Gwen Le Mene our course in about 4 hours, Nic coming day trips, mostly into nearby Namadgi in a little earlier. My great sense of pride (Brandy Flat, Camel Hump, Mt Orroral, Six people went on the two-day trip to gained by finishing was only slightly di- Square Rock, Boboyan Valley and Mt the coast, Nic Bendeli, John, Nic, Chris, minished by the fact that I (a strapping Gingera) but also further a field to the Caroline and Gwen. On Saturday morn- youth of 24 years) had been beaten by Tinderry Mountains, Yanununbeyan ing we first drove to Mount Bushwalker. a man close to retirement age. At the National Park, the South Coast (Pigeon After parking the car, we started our end of the day I was able to walk away House) and Kosciusko National Park hike around 11am. We spend 1hour with several things: an increased of (South Rams Head). Three over night to get to the summit where we had appreciation of New South Wales’s rug- trips ventured into the cold of Kos- a lunch with a beautiful view on the ged landscapes, some great stories and ciusko (Tin Hut, Jagungal, Gooandra), cliffs and forests of the Budawangs (in bush wisdom from Nic, and two legs one into Namadgi (Scabby Range) and Morton NP). We got very nice views that will be quite sore come Monday. a fifth sought the relative warmth of the on The Castle and Mt Pigeonhouse. We returned back to our cars on the same Tramping in the Tinderrys, photo by Kat Fitzsimmons track. The next planned stop was Mt Pigeonhouse. Although almost getting lost on the way we arrived there around 5pm. After dinner we started our nightly hike all equipped with head torches. In consideration of the forecast we decided to sleep just below the top in some small caves, since nobody was to keen on waking up wet the next morning. Of course it didn’t rain that night. After a recovering night we were able to observe a magnificent sunrise from the top of Pigeon House. After that a big platform on the top of the mountain was transformed into an international kitchen to have a great breakfast with cheese wraps, ham and cheese crois- sants, eggs and bacon, Vietnamese Pan-cake, French toast and Crepes. After making our way back to the car park, we drove to a beach at Bawley Point to enjoy a swim in the quite chilly waters of the Pacific. To finish this beautiful weekend, we stopped in Batemans bay to have Fish and Chips and drove back to Canberra. 32 Wilderness WalkingTOM GLEESON A cold wind dances across the exposed lar show, for which I am soon joined by the chainsaw? What can surpass the portion of my face; my cheeks burn with some other bushwalkers. We sit in silence simple pleasure of observing a platypus the chill of the winter morn. My sleep- and witness the rising of the sun, watch swim happily in a flowing creek? ing bag is my only shelter - all that was how it's rays of light land on the cliffs and For myself, I go not to the wilderness to needed under a starry vault. My fingers illuminate the valleys, and listen to the escape the urbanity of everyday life, but search for the sleeping bag's draw-cords, morning song of the birds as they soar to experience life in the first place. Land- find the toggles, and with a pull release high above the ground below. scaped parks, air-conditioned shopping me from the embrace of the snug fitting What is it about wilderness areas, which centres, wide bitumen roads and neatly mummy-shaped bag. I role onto my draws bushwalkers to their remote constructed houses – ostensibly displays right hand side, as my left arm emerges peaks, trackless bush, and clear running of man’s achievements – are temporary from the warm comfort of the bag and streams? The unspoilt beauty of the and insubstantial. It is in the wilder- extends into the cold air around me. My Australian bush – here embodied in the ness that the bushwalker is at home. To left hand searches along the ground, delicate fragility of the orchid, there by the witness the morning sunrise, to walk the finding my trusty Volleys and my glasses harsh intertwining of Banksia branches – valleys and ranges, to eat, sleep and wake stashed inside the left shoe. I put on my is something special beyond words. A trip again in this environment, is to experi- glasses and appreciate my surroundings; into the wilderness has a certain spiritual ence something beyond that which words the eucalypts paint a ghostly silhouette quality about it. What can compare with can express. The bushwalker leaves his upon the canvas of the pre-dawn sky. I the thunderous power of the waterfall, cares behind when he sets off with his reach into my other shoe and take out my the ancient architecture of a mountain map and compass, and everything he camera. Then I get up out of my sleeping range, or the cool taste of a mountain needs within his pack. The complexities, bag, put on a fleece and my shoes, and stream? What Botanic Garden can rival tribulations, and consternations of ev- walk over to the mountain's cliff edge to the array of a remote canyon, with tall eryday life seem trivial and are forgotten sit and watch the sunrise. It is a spectacu- Red Cedars, hidden and inaccessible to as the senses are assaulted by the beauty and innocence of nature.

Kanangra gorge from The Wallicle, from Kanangra Walls Gangerang Range, Kanangra-Boyd NP

33 Gangerang Range, Kanangra-Boyd NP Kanangra gorge, at the junction of Kanangra Creek and Carrabeanga creek, Kanagra-Boyd NP