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Linga-Bibliothek Linga A/907331 TURN RIGHT at MACHU PICCHU REDISCOVERING THE LOST CITY ONE STEP AT A TIME MARK ADAMS DUTTON It- • Index Abancay, Peru, 37, 39 Amazonas Explorer, 42, 43, 232 Abril, Emilio, 262 American Board of Commissioners for Abril, Roxana, 262-63, 290 Foreign Missions, 15 Across South America (Bingham), The American Mercury, 249 33-34, 49 American Museum of Natural Adams, Alex, 9, 24, 36 History, 204 Adams, Aurita, 19, 20, 24, 47 Amundsen, Roald, 78-79, 80,113, 215 Adams, Lucas, 24 Andean spectacled bears, 171-72 Adams, Magnus, 24, 289 Andenes (terraces), 120 Adventure, 25, 54 Angkor Wat, 188 Age of Discovery, 67 Angrand, Leonce, 57 agriculture* animal sacrifice, 61,121 Bingham on, 132 anthropology, 205, 219 and celestial orientation of Inca sites, Antis, 116, 126 221-22 Antisuyo, 61, 116, 117 and climate theories, 186n Antisuyo (Savoy), 157 and the hacienda system, 113-14 Aobama River, 171, 220 and land reforms, 114 Aobama Valley, 277 and Machu Picchu, 187 apachetas, 92, 93 and terrace structures, 58, 61, Apurimac River, 37, 38, 52, 93, 128 177-78, 192 apus Aguas Calientes, 7, 169, 172, 174-75, at Choquequirao, 58-59 182, 192, 197, 240 at Choquetacarpo Pass, 92-93 Ales Hrdlicka, 205 and the Ice Maiden, 219 Almaro, Diego de, 130 and the Inca Trail, 272-73, 274 alpacas, 61 and location of Inca sites, 62 altitude sickness, 46, 82, 90, 92, 153 at Machu Picchu, 193 Alvistur, Tomas, 206, 236 and Machu Picchu theories, 279 320 Index opus (cont.) and antiquities dealing, 245 most revered peaks, 220 and artifacts controversy, 3—4 at Phuyupatamarca, 282 birth of, 15 and religious syncretism, 275-76 and book revisions, 250-51 at Vitcos, 117 childhood, 16-17 archaeoastronomy, 219-22, 258, 279 and Choquequirao, 52, 55-56, archaeology, 57, 201, 203-8 57-58, 62 Arequipa, 41, 152 and climate of Peru, 41, 124 Arteaga, Melchior and coca, 83 and Bingham, 100-101, 113,172 and Concevidayoc, 146 and Giesecke, 97, 198, 253 Connecticut home, 78 guiding to Machu Picchu, 176-77,178 discoveries in Peru, 3, 5 and Lost City of the Incas, 240 dissertation topic, 22-23 Atahualpa, 68-70, 158, 204, 243 education, 16-17, 22-23 Ausangate, 220 and Espiritu Pampa, 149-51,154-55 Ayacucho, 36 expedition notes, 291 Aymaras, 34 family life of, 28 Aztec Empire, 67 first expedition in Peru, 33-38 first trips to Machu Picchu, 279-80 Balboa, Vasco Nunez de, 67 and food in Peru, 76 Bandelier, Adolph, 80 health problems, 248 Bell, Alexander Graham, 201 and the Inca Trail, 272, 274, 277 Berns, Augusto, 240-41, 244, 246 journey to Espiritu Pampa, 142 Besley, J. Campbell, 224, 246 Leivers on, 4-5 Betanzos, Juan de, 242 and Machu Picchu, 25-26, 171, Billinghurst, Guillermo, 208, 224 176-81, 183-90, 243, 253, 278, Bingham, Alfred, 152-53, 248 285-86 Bingham, Ajfreda and Markham, 79 childbirth, 29 marriage, 22 correspondence to, 30, 98, 151-52, and media coverage, 199-200 208, 234 and Mount Coropuna climb, 151-53 family fortune, 32, 78, 81 and Mount Machu Picchu, 194-95 father's death, 95 and music of Peru, 161 marriage, 22 organizational skills, 13-14, 95-96 Bingham, Clara, 15 and the Pan-American Scientific Bingham, Hiram, 14-15, 15n, 16, 29, 29n Congress, 33, 34 Bingham, Hiram, II, 15-16, 29n and "Peruvian Time," 42 Bingham, Hiram, III and Phuyupatamarca, 278 and academic life, 23, 28-29, 32 and politics, 247-50 at Aguas Caliente, 172 and Puquiura, 126-27 ambition of, 14, 16 religious beliefs, 21-22 and Andean culture, 107-9,110 research on Inca sites, 66, 95-97, on animal sacrifices, 121 98-99, 226, 235 Index 321 returns from expeditions, 199-200, astronomical observations, 194 214-16 and Bingham's theories, 26 at Rosaspata, 117 and Choquequirao, 59-60 and Savoy, 157 and the Inca Trail, 222, 277 second expedition in Peru, 223-28, and Intihuatana shrines, 189 233-37, 236tt and Llactapata, 7, 170 and self-promotion, 17, 58 and Machu Picchu, 185-86, 218, 260, and Tincochaca, 112 285-88 Venezuela Colombia expedition, 30-32 and Patallacta, 269-71 and Vilcabamba, 127, 140 and Sacred Center theory, 119, 279 and Vitos, 108, 115, 116-22 and sundials, 174, 181, 193 Bingham, Woodbridge, 29n andVitcos, 119 Boehm, Sydney, 257 Central African Republic, 144 Bolivar, Simon, 27, 29, 30, 33, 36 Cerro San Gabriel, 286-87 bones. See huaqueros (grave robbers); chasquis, 47, 68 skeletal remains Chepstow-Lusty, Alex, 186n Boorstein, Daniel, 203 chicha, 56, 70, 184, 268 Boston Globe, 17 Chichen Itza, 57 Boston Post, 151 Choquequirao Bothrops pit viper, 169 and Bingham's expeditions, 37-38, 66 Bowman, Isaiah, 98 camp at, 63-65 Buenos Aires, 33, 34 compared to Llactapata, 170 Burger, Richard, 210, 213, 255 hike to, 51-56 Burton, Richard, 29 and Inca roads, 90 and Leivers's preservation ethic, 145 Cachora, 47 Machu Picchu compared to, 184 Cajamarca, 68-69, 130, 243 and orientation of Inca sites, 119 Calancha, Antonio de la and proximity to rivers, 117-18 and Bingham's research, 96, 98-99, and route planning, 5, 6 131,226,235 site described, 57-62 and Machu Picchu, 188 and treasure hunting, 57 and mummies of Inca rulers, 244 viewed from Phuyupatamarca, 282 and Vilcabamba, 126 Choquetacarpo Pass, 90-94, 142, 282 andVitcos, 119-20 Christian missionaries, 14-15, 120. Campa Indians, 149, 150-51, 157-58, 160 See also Catholicism Canari Indians, 125 Cieza de Le6n, Pedro de, 123-24 Capac Nan, 46-47, 186, 289 City of Z, 32, 34n Capra, Frank, 251 climate of Peru Carrasco (sergeant), 100, 101, 176, 181 Bingham on, 41, 124 Catholicism, 20, 35, 275-76 and cloud forest, 128, 137, 176-77 cejadeselva, 176-77 garua (cloud cover), 238 celestial orientation of Inca sites. See also and mountain passes, 91, 93 solstice lines and rain forests, 124, 140-42 322 Index climate of Peru (cont.) Cock of the Rock (tunfet bird), 140-41 variety of zones, 41, 124 Colombia, 29-31, 33 and Vilcabamba site, 124 Columbus, Christopher, 66-67 andVitcos, 120 Concevidayoc, 126, 127, 141-42, 145 Cobos, Benjamin, 254 Condore, Samuel, 132-34 Cobos, Flavio, 254 condors, 272 Cobos, Florencia, 107, 110 conquistadors. See also specific Cobos, Juvenal individuals and altitude fitness, 91 and Bingham's expedition route, 30 and anniversary of Bingham's trip, 290 brutality of, 70 and coca, 82-83 conquest of Inca empire, 67-71 at Concevidayoc, 141, 142 and Cusco, 35 daily hiking routine, 53 and guerilla warfare, 123-24 at Espiritu Pampa, 148, 161 and the khipu, 226n first visit to Machu Picchu, 111-12 and Lost City legends, 3, 26-27 and hike to Choquequirao, 53 and mit'a system, 111 home of, 83, 102-6, 110-11 and siege of Cusco, 71, 99-100 and Inca Trail trip, 271 and treasure hunting, 57 and insect attack, 86 and Vilcabamba, 237 at Kolpacasa Pass, 128 andVitcos, 117 and Leivers's injury, 136, 138 Conway, Hugh, 251 and muleteer injury, 63-64 Cook, Frederick, 79, 80 and muleteer work, 53, 73 Cook, James, 14 and "Peruvian time," 42 Coolidge, Calvin, 248 popularity of, 129 Cordillera Vilcabamba, 105 preparations for trip, 42-44, 46 Corona Borealis, 270 at Quillabamba, 162 Coronica Moralizada (Calancha), 96, 98, on Savoy expedition, 254 99, 119,226 at the Sixpac Manco, 123 Coropuna, 199 and start of trip, 48 Cortes, Hernan, 67 at Valentin farm, 72-73 Cousteau, Jacques, 37n and water supplies, 51 "Cradle of Gold," 37, 39, 58 at Yanama camp, 86, 88 creation myths, 200. See also Tampu Cobos, Rosa, 103-4, 105, 107, 110, 112 Tocco coca Crowley, Aleister, 79 and altitude endurance, 90-92 Cura Ocllo, 116, 117, 124, 125 and Andean diet, 105 Cusco Bingham on, 34, 83 and artifacts controversy, 4 cookies, 217 and Bingham's expeditions, 35-37, expedition's use of, 46, 82-83, 90-92, 97-98 129, 143, 266, 274 and civil war, 130 and folk medicine, 65 and earthquakes, 41 and Inca royalty, 82 and the Inca empire, 9 Index 323 and Inca roads, 47 and porters, 266 and Inca stonework, 36, 59 preparations for trip, 264-67 and Koricancha temple, 242 El Dorado legend, 57 and New Age spiritualism, 7 El Sol, 235 preparations for trip, 46 Encounter Overland, 143—45, 164 and Quechua language, 64 Enigmatic Window, 185, 243 and routes to Machu Picchu, 163 Eromboni Pampa, 150 and Spanish conquest, 69, 70-71 Espiritu Pampa topography of, 37 and Bingham's expeditions, 127,142, and tourism, 2-3 150-51 and water quality, 76-77 and celestial orientation of Inca sites, 171 Dana, Richard Henry, 201 and Leivers' preservation ethic, 145 Darien Colony, 23 and Machu Picchu theories, 253 Darwin, Charles, 30 and orientation of Inca sites, 118 Davis, Richard Harding, 30, 31 and proximity to rivers, 117 Dead Woman's Pass, 274 and route planning, 5, 6 Death in the Andes (Vargas Llosa), 40 and Savoy's theories, 254 The Discoverers (Boorstein), 203 site described, 146-50, 154-61 Doyle, Arthur Conan, 80 andusnus, 127-28 viewed from Phuyupatamarca, 282 Earhart, Amelia, 249 and Vilcabamba name, 105-6 earthquakes, 36, 41, 102, 187 "The Explorer" (Kipling), 62, 253 Eastman, George, 81 Exploring Cusco (Frost), 267 Eaton, George, 205, 206 ecology of Peru. See plants of Peru; Farabee, William, 97, 118, 223 wildlife of Peru Fawcett, Percy, 31-32, 35n The Economist, 48 Fejos, Paul, 278 Ecuador, 29, 68 Fisk, Carlton, 82 Edgar (Gudiel) Fitch, Ezra, 81 drive to Santa Teresa, 162-63 Foote, Harry, 96, 126-27 at Espiritu Pampa, 160-61 Forgotten Vilcabamba (Lee), 121-22 at Inca Trail trip, 264 Frost, Peter, 267 at Llactapata, 172-73 Fructoso, 164, 167-68 preparations for trip, 46, 48 Fujimori, Alberto, 40 at Santa Teresa, 164, 165, 167 Funerary Rock, 188 Efrain (Valles) background, 232, 261-68 Garcia, Alan, 40, 41 on condors, 272 Geographic Journal, 199 guiding style, 268-69 giardia, 76-77 and Machu
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    ARTS & CULTURE Jul 20, 2017 Sacred Valley, Peru: How to Plan the Perfect Trip SARAH SCHLICHTER Exploring Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas feels Save This Story like going back in time. Centuries-old Inca terraces spill down green, misty hillsides. Women in traditional Andean dress stroll along the cobblestone streets of colonial towns, long black braids trailing down their backs. Colorful village markets display soft alpaca sweaters, hats, and ponchos woven by hand. The Sacred Valley is tucked between Cusco and Machu Picchu, running along the Urubamba River from Pisac to Ollantaytambo. Travelers with limited time often skip the Sacred Valley in their rush to see Machu Picchu, but the valley’s picturesque towns and well-preserved Inca ruins are worth a day or two in their own right. The Sacred Valley has an additional benefit for travelers hoping to acclimate to the region’s altitude before visiting Machu Picchu: Most of the valley sits several hundred feet lower than Cusco. When to Visit the Sacred Valley For the best chance of dry weather, visit the Sacred Valley during its high season between June and August. The rainiest part of the year is November through March. Come during the shoulder-season months—April, May, September, and October —for slightly smaller crowds and lower prices than you’d find in high season, without an excessive threat of rain. Top Sights in the Sacred Valley Pisac: Famous for its Sunday market, in which farmers come from all over the Sacred Valley with a colorful bounty of local fruit and vegetables, Pisac is also worth a visit for its large Inca ruins.