PANAMA’S DARIEN LOWLANDS: CANOPY CAMP JANUARY 12–20, 2019 Adult female dark morph Crested Eagle LEADER: ERIK BRUHNKE LIST COMPILED BY: ERIK BRUHNKE VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM PANAMA’S DARIEN LOWLANDS: CANOPY CAMP January 12–20, 2019 By Erik Bruhnke Panama is home to exceptional birding experiences. Over the course of the week, participants on our Darien Lowlands Canopy Camp tour enjoyed an amazing spectrum of scenic ecosystems, diverse bird life, and cozy lodging tucked into the wilderness. We met many amazing locals who welcomed us with open arms and prepared amazing locally-sourced cuisine that was a treat to our senses. Our tour began as we departed the Riande Hotel, located in Panama City. With our tour van loaded up and binoculars ready to go, we drove to scan the beautiful Bayano Lake, a vast reservoir of the Bayano River. We scoped out views of the beautiful Cocoi Heron feeding along the shore and had a great study opportunity of a Green Heron and its tropical cousin, the Striated Heron. Neotropic Cormorants flew overhead as they roamed along waters. Our next stop was in the Town of Torti. The birding in Panama is high intensity, with so many birds all day long. A relaxing visit at Torti Avicar provided a delicious taste of the area for lunch. Just feet away from our dining table were several hummingbird feeders, as well as a tray feeder that provided food for the tanagers. Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds and Rufous- tailed Hummingbirds dined in a feeding frenzy. The large and snappy Black-throated Mangos and Scaly-breasted Hummingbirds put on a show. Just before we left, a stunning male Long-billed Starthroat took our breaths away. After lunch we ventured towards the Torti River where we saw Male White-necked Jacobin nesting Carib Grackles (a near-exclusive resident of South America) that chattered among the hedgerows. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 Colorful Ruddy Ground-Doves dabbled among the roadside grit. The air smelled sweet with a whirlwind of flowers planted throughout people’s yards. A large flock of Southern Lapwings were feeding among the shallow river edges. Both Lesser Kiskadees and Great Kiskadees gleaned insects just above the water. An Amazon Kingfisher cackled as it flew by. Southern Rough-winged Swallows perched above the river to give their wings a rest. Birds were all around us! Our drive continued to the far-eastern region of Panama, the Darien region. While en route we scoped a gorgeous perched Savanna Hawk. Its rufous flight feathers and unique profile were breathtaking. Not far from the Savanna Hawk was a Pied Puffbird keeping safe watch. As we headed east, the “lowland” Savanna Hawk feel made itself known. The ecosystem was changing, and so did the birds. We arrived at Canopy Camp that evening, to be welcomed with a warm greeting by David Byers, the manager of Canopy Camp. A delicious dinner of locally-sourced food topped off a perfect day of birding and made for a fantastic start of our week-long tour. Before our first breakfast at the camp, a rich chorus of Howler Monkeys and Common Pauraques vocalized through twilight. In the hours to come we explored the nearby garden where we were treated to the very uncommon Gray-cheeked Gray-cheeked Nunlet... a treat to observe! Nunlet! White-vented Plumeleteers and Blue- Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 throated Goldentails fed among the flowers. The trails took our breaths away as a complex host of canopy layers towered above us. While on the trails we enjoyed the lively presence of lek-displaying (courtship dancing) Golden-collared Manakins and Golden- headed Manakins. The melodious White-headed Golden-collared Manakin Wren left us speechless with smiles. It was an amazing morning. In the afternoon we headed to the easternmost tip of the Pan American Highway within Panama, to the town of Yaviza. A brief stop on the way was highlighted with the three species of oropendolas (Crested, Chestnut-headed, and Black)! Today was also our one day of the tour with four vulture species, as we saw King Vulture during our lunch, kettles of Black Vultures and Turkey Vultures together, and the uncommon special treat of the midday hour, a low and close Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. At the end of the evening we scanned bushes topped with Flame-rumped Tanagers, Bananaquits, and Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture a very special sighting for the area, a Grayish Saltator. Despite the Grayish Saltator being found throughout much of Central and South America, this species’ range is essentially void of all of Panama, up until recently with this individual showing up in the Darien. This is the Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 first time a Grayish Saltator was documented on one of VENT’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp tours! The next morning we started out in 4x4 trucks to trek through Quebrada Felix, with our aim set on birding the forests of Salto Road. One of the first birds of the day was a sunrise-lit Red- crowned Woodpecker, chattering and chiseling away atop a dead tree. It was beautiful! Black-chested Jays squawked at each other among the denser forests we hiked through. A glimpse of a Double-banded Graytail was complemented with our one sighting of a Rose-breasted Grosbeak throughout the tour… a powerful connection with a bird soon to be found again throughout the eastern Chestnut-headed Oropendola United States via spring migration. One of the most memorable moments from the first half of the day was hearing and seeing a Striped Cuckoo singing away over rolling grassy hills. After yet another amazing meal, we ventured throughout different trails at the Canopy Camp property. The birds among the property were simply outstanding. The Bright-rumped Attilas are incredible birds. As we wrapped-up our evening checklist, a pair of Palm Tanagers tended to their nest inside a hanging flower basket, just a few feet from our chairs. The next morning was an early one as we prepared to bird along and beyond the Chucunaque River. We hopped on the large dugout canoes (each made from a single tree), driven by locals who know intimately the river and all of its bends and depths. Our departure was pre-sunrise. Striated Herons fed along the river, seen shortly after both species of night-heron (Black and Yellow) were noted. An adult White Hawk soared overhead. We parked the boats and walked into the Ancon forest where we spent the day birding. Ancient trees towered above us. A Red- Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 throated Caracara called atop one of the trees, showing off its neon-red throat, as well as its raucous call. The high-pitched three- part whistles of the Russet-winged Schiffornis made us smile. The Darien region of Panama is The adult Harpy Eagle and chick left us speechless! the only area of Central America where this bird is found. And then it happened…the trek over the rivers and through the woods led us to a Harpy Eagle nest. The nest was enormous, and the adult Harpy Eagle watched closely over its white chick. Our experience with the Harpy Eagle was a special one. Several scopes lined up on this amazing raptor as it carefully tended to its one chick. The Harpy Eagle is the national bird of Panama, and the entire experience with this bird was heartfelt by all. On the boat ride back a flock of 6 Blue-and-yellow Macaws flew over our canoe. It was one of the most zenful birding days of my life: the delightful company of VENT clients, birding with my good friend Carlos, witnessing a Harpy Eagle and its chick, and seeing the macaws fly over. It’s amazing how powerful Adult female dark morph Crested Eagle birding can be! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 The following day we focused our birding energy along La Pe ñita Road and ended with a sweet finale. In the morning we visited “Kingfisher Pond” where we scoped out a gorgeous Boat-billed Heron, the petite American Pygmy Kingfisher, and a very uncommon Green-and-rufous Kingfisher. We spent the afternoon with the Embera tribe along the Chucunaque River. It was such a privilege to meet them! They graciously welcomed us to their establishment and did several dances for us. Their handmade gifts were amazing. A few of us (myself included) purchased temporary tatoos sourced from ink from native plants. The experience of simply meeting them was so special, and it was a perfect cap to an already exciting day. Our last full day of birding together was spent along a different part of the Chucunaque River and also the Tuita River, both of which led us to another very special raptor experience. Earlier in the tour, we Blue-and-yellow Macaws had observed the active nest of a Harpy Eagle. As if that experience couldn’t be topped…it happened…we ventured deep into the woods where we had an incredible viewing experience of a nesting Crested Eagle! Both the Crested Eagle and Harpy Eagle are rare; and as far as raptors go, the Crested Eagle is a tier even less expected than the Harpy. The majority of Crested Eagles are light morphs, while dark morphs are extremely rare. For nearly an hour we witnessed a dark Mother Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth with baby Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Panama’s Darien Lowlands: Canopy Camp, 2019 morph female Crested Eagle preen and perch alongside her proud nest.