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Challenging the Fast Fashion Product CHALLENGING THE FAST FASHION PRODUCT: A METHOD FOR USE-VALUE APPAREL DESIGN by Jennifer Triemstra-Johnston Bachelor of Fine Arts, York University, 1995 A major research paper presented to Ryerson University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in the Program of Fashion Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2013 © Jennifer Triemstra-Johnston 2013 AUTHOR’S DECLARATION FOR ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION OF A MRP I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this MRP. This is a true copy of the MRP, including any required final revisions. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this MRP to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP may be made electronically available to the public. ii CHALLENGING THE FAST FASHION PRODUCT: A METHOD FOR USE-VALUE APPAREL DESIGN Jennifer Triemstra-Johnston Master of Arts, 2013 Fashion Ryerson University Abstract Sustainable apparel design is a discipline based on challenging the status quo. Applying an interdisciplinary approach, this paper integrates the methodologies of research through practice, sustainable design, and material culture to challenge contemporary products found on the fast fashion market. Exploring use-value as an avenue for sustainable design, a typology is developed addressing the identifiers of function, aesthetics, expression, and durability as a method for generating sustainable solutions. The interpretative methods of material culture are adapted into a use-value challenge as a process for establishing sustainable and unsustainable elements embedded within a product. The concept of best practices is introduced as a procedure for assessing the solutions for the creation of alternative prototypes. A case study, challenging children’s princess costumes found on the contemporary market, provides an example of how the use-value method for apparel design can be applied to fast fashion products. iii Acknowledgements This project would not have been possible without support and supervision of several professors from the Ryerson School of Fashion MA program. I am indebted to the following professors for their never ending support: Dr. Kimberly Wahl for encouraging me to become a stronger writer; Sandra Tullio-Pow for introducing me to functional design and her guidance as my MA Program Supervisor; Dr. Alison Matthews David for revealing the links between my design work and material culture and Dr. Lu Ann Lafrenz, my supervisor, who gave me the freedom and encouragement to follow tangents, while trusting me to reign them all in. Thank you all for your inspiration and friendship. There are many other individuals that helped make this paper possible with their ideas, insight, and emotional support. I am grateful to the fellow colleagues I met in the program, who shared my excitement and love for fashion and costume: Elaine, Jen, P.Y. and Tanya, it was a pleasure to embark on this academic journey with you. I am indebted to Carolyn Cross at the Oakville Museum who offered me not only a curatorial internship, but her friendship and advice. I have to thank my friends: Alex, who was my study partner and sounding board; Jan and Nancy, for egging me on and having the faith in me to finish; and Melanie, for reminding how to use a comma. Lastly I am thankful for my parents and family for their support and encouragement; Marijke, my sister, who showed me what true perseverance is; and Chris, my partner, to whom I am eternally grateful, I could not have made it through the last three years without you. iv Dedication For my Mother, who always told me a change is as good as a rest. v Table of Contents Page Abstract ............................................................................................................................... iii Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................. iv Dedication ........................................................................................................................... v Table of Contents ................................................................................................................ vi List of Tables ...................................................................................................................... viii List of Figures ..................................................................................................................... iv List of Appendices .............................................................................................................. x Chapter One: Introduction .................................................................................................. 1 Chapter Two: Methods ....................................................................................................... 8 Theoretical Framework: Research Through Practice ................................................ 8 Chapter Three: Contextual Review ..................................................................................... 12 Fast Fashion .............................................................................................................. 12 Working in Sustainable Design ................................................................................. 14 Sustainability ............................................................................................................. 14 Use-Value as Sustainable Criteria ............................................................................. 17 Use-value apparel design ................................................................................. 18 Use-value product design ................................................................................ 23 Sustainable Typologies .............................................................................................. 24 Identifiers of Use-Value ............................................................................................ 24 User Need Identifiers ................................................................................................. 24 Function ........................................................................................................... 24 Expression ....................................................................................................... 25 Aesthetics ........................................................................................................ 26 Use Phase Identifiers ................................................................................................. 26 Physical durability ........................................................................................... 26 Emotional durability ........................................................................................ 27 Potential durability .......................................................................................... 28 Material Culture......................................................................................................... 30 Reflection of belief and value .......................................................................... 31 Interpretation of belief and value .................................................................... 33 Methods of Interpretation .......................................................................................... 38 Description ...................................................................................................... 40 Evaluation ........................................................................................................ 41 Interpretation/challenge ................................................................................... 43 Research .......................................................................................................... 45 Prototyping ...................................................................................................... 46 vi Best Practice .................................................................................................... 46 Process and Perspective of the Use-Value Challenge Method .................................. 47 Challenging the Fast Fashion Process ....................................................................... 49 Chapter Four: Findings and Analysis ................................................................................. 51 Description and Evaluation Stages Summary ............................................................ 51 Establishing the Challenges From the Application of the Typology ........................ 55 Generating and Researching Use-Value Solutions .................................................... 56 Prototype Design Development ................................................................................. 59 Underskirt ........................................................................................................ 61 Skirt ................................................................................................................. 61 Overskirt .......................................................................................................... 61 Bodice .............................................................................................................. 62 Sleeves
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