New ON QUARTZ MOVEMENTS! M81A M81 M81A M88 Continuous Second Quartz "Power House" Movement Available With Regular And Long Post- 2 YEAR GUARANTEE! M88 New Thin and Compact ALL THREE MOVEMENTS FEATURE: M 81 Step Second Quartz Move­ Quartz Movement-Step • 4,194,304 Hz Quartz Crystal Oscillator ment-Available with Long and Short Second-1 YEAR • Operational Range 14° F to 122° F Post-2 YEAR GUARANTEE! GUARANTEE! • Slide Switch, exact to the second se tting NEW CATALOG NO. 181-B: Shows Quartz, Pendulum and Strike Movements, Hands, Dials, Numerals, etc. Cost-$1.00 or FREE ON REQUEST WITH ORDER FOR MOVEMENTS.

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DIMENSIONS: 2 -3/16 inches square x 5 / 8 inch thick. Center post diameter only • Accurate to ::!:_ 1 minute a y e ar 5/16 inch. The works can be enclosed (59° F to 770 F) within a case less than 3/4 • l\·1ovement size: 2 -7/8 x 2 · 3 / 8 x 1-1 / 8 inches. inch thick. • Runs over a year on a standard Reduced in size ACCURACY: Within 2; 10 sec· "C"' cell. onds per month The M81 A is a p o w erhouse' It converts the banery's BATTERY: Runs over a year on Actual elect rical energy into torque to drive the hands more a standard "A" penlight bat­ S iz e than twice as ef fi c iently as a transistorized balance wheel tery, and much longer on the movement. By any standard of comparison the M81 A alkaline type. is the superlative movement. SECOND HAND: If used, steps off the Regular movement mounts on dials up to 7/16" thick . seconds at prec ise one-second in tervals. Also available w ith long center post to mount on slabs ONE YEAR GUARANTEE to 3 / 4 " thick : O r der No. M81A· LCP. 25 @ $5.25 Each TWO YEAR GUARANTEE 25@ $5.25 Each

SPECIAL! NEW LOW PRICES!

M-81 and M-81A M-88-Reduced Prices ! 1-2 @ $9.00 ea 3-9 @ $7.50 ea 1-2 @ $8.00 ea 3-9 @ $7.00 ea 10-24@ $5.75 ea 10-24@ $5.75 ea ANY SIZE: 25@ $5.25 Each Prices Include Hour and Minute Hands, Nuts, Hangers. Add On orders of $ 2 5 .0 0 or more $.25 for second hands. Write for prices for larger quantities. On orders of $ 2 5 .0 0 or more Add $2.00 for shipping to 48 states. r ------~------, I ORDER BLANK I I _ M8 1 Movements @ $ $ : 1 _ _ M8 1A Movem ents@ $ $ Name I I _ M81 A-LCP Movements @ $ $ Address 1 I _ M88 Movements @ $ $ I I _ Second Hands @ $.25 $ City/State/ Zip 1 I __ Catalog No. 18 1-B $ no/ charge I 1 Return to: 1 __ Shipping and Handling $ 2.oo I TOTAL $ CAS-KER Co., P.O. Box 2347, Drawer J 1 I Cincinnati, Ohio 45201 I L------~ P.O. BOX 234 7 Cincinnati, Ohio 45201 Cas-~&rr Co. Tel: (513) 241-7075

IMPORTERS-MANUFACTURERS-DISTRIBUTORS: DIAMONDS, JEWELRY, MATERIAL AND SUPPLIES

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE VOLUME 5, NUMBER 6 JUNE 1981 ULTRASONIC CLOCK CLEANING 24

Coming Up Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute This Month: AWl ANNUAL JOE CROOKS 4 THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE How Time Flies! MEETINGS JOSEPH RUGOLE 8 ADJUSTMENTS Adjustments ofMean Time ~ 30,42 OTTO BENESH CLOCK CHATTER 12 A Plethora of Pliers MARVIN E. WHITNEY 16 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER OMEGA and the American Chronometer Makers: Part VIII

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL SPACE SHUTTLE 20 Miscellaneous Jewelry Repair: .Part II HENRY B. FRIED 22 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Repeater Automaton 58 STEVEN G. CONOVER 24 ULTRASONIC CLOCK CLEANING Spot I ight on WES DOOR 28 SALES TALK Lead That Sale THE FUSEE MILTON C. STEVENS 30 AWl NEWS Down to Business ROBERT F. BISHOP 38 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 48 Affiliate Chapter Glossary GEORGESCHLEHR 42 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Birds of a Feather FRED S. BURCKHARDT 46 THE ROCK QUARRY Venting My Frustrations in Two Vignettes DEPARTMENTS ORVILLE R. HAGANS 48 IN THE SPOTLIGHT The Fusee Readers Write I 6 Book Review I 10 New Members I 37 Association News I 39 A WI Bench Courses I 40 Bench Tips I 52 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Subscription, $30.00 per year, News in the Trade I 58 $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per copy outside the United States. New Products and Literature I 60 Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL Classified Ads I 62 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Advertiser's Index I 64 Dates to Remember I 64 ROLOGCAL Editorial Executive and Editorial Offices

AWl Central P.O. Box llOll 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 452ll Telephone: (513) 661-3838 To quote the Scottish poet Robert Burns, "The best laid Harold J. Herman: Editor schemes o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley," or, as more com­ Maury Norrell: Managing Editor monly stated, "oft go awry." These immortal words may now Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor be haunting some AWl members as they face the seemingly LuAnn Martin: Art Director imminent decrease in future Social Security benefits-an Sue Scott: Business Manager event which will drastically affect the many persons nearing retirement in this country. Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Lee Rothan: Circulation Margie M. Brater: Circulation But have the plans laid out by the skilled watchmaker really placed him in such an unfavorable position? Among those Technical Editors: nearing retirement, unskilled and semi-skilled laborers will Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins find themselves continuing to work full time for a period James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole beyond their plans. The "best laid schemes" of the watch­ Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith maker, however, put him into a different category. Whether Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. or not you, as the aspiring young apprentice of years ago, Paul Fisk James L. Tigner foresaw the advantageous position you may be placed in Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney Orville R. Hagans presently is not important now. What is important is that you Ewell D. Hartman realize that you can now adjust your own schedule and work Gerald G. Jaeger load, supplementing whatever Social Security benefits Sean C. Monk Robert A. Nelson you receive in order to fulfill your personal desires and necessities. A WI Officers: Joe Crooks: President Dorothy M. Aderman: 1st Vice President Joseph G. Baier, PhD: 2nd Vice President James H. Broughton, CEWS: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer

A WI Directors: Otto Benesh, CMC Jay Foreman Henry Fried, FAWI, CMW, CMC Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC Ewell Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Donald W. Leverenz, CMW Sean C. Monk, CMW On the Front Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director The FLORIDA EVERGLADES are featured on our June cover. This picturesque tract of marshland covers a large por­ George Schlehr, CMW: Research and Education Council Chairman tion of the southern tip of the state. It is characterized by numerous shallow lakes and streams, dotted with islets of Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary dense vegetation. Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright© 1981 by the American Watchmakers Institute. Quartz Watch Repairs - NOW

80% Of The Sold in 1981 Will Be Quartz Watches By Industry Estimates. Procrastination Time has Run Out for Watchmakers & Full Service Jewelry Stores Alike. These Watches will Require Service, and this Service can be Very Profitable for Those Who are Prepared. l l!J I

~System J

$59.95 THE FLUME ELECTRONIC SERVICE SYSTEM is subdivided in: Introduction: 1. Basic terms u$4!td in electronics. 2. Cor:~ruction elements of electronic watches and . 3. Watch and clock movements - Modules - Spare parts. 4. MeaSuring and testing - detailed description how to measure and test. 5 . Regulation - Equalization: Signal reception from electronic watches and clocks. correcting rate deviations and resetting watches and clocks. Main Pan: $19.95 75 specification sheets with illustrations and schematic re· This 76 page. handsomely printed. easy to read manual contains presentations of the modules with measuring points. all of the fundamental information required to understand the lnfonnation on suitable batteries and special features. List of principles of operation of the LED. LCD. and the electronic portion spare parts with order-numbers. Outline of setting for analogue of the analog watch. A copy of the "Digital Watch Troubleshooting and digital watches (LCD, LED) as well as of functions. Guide" supplement is included. Specification sheets already available for: Arctos. Bifora, This fully illustrated "how to do.. manual covers the mbst Bulova, Candino, Citizen, Enlcar. ETA, EEM, FHF, GP, Garant, frequently encountered repairs required of both the LED. and LCD Hechinger. Heuer, Junghans. Kienzie, Kundo. Mondaine, watches. It is written especially for the jeweler, watchmaker, or Omega, PUW, Ricoh. Ronda, Seiko. Staiger, Tisoot, Vedette. entrepreneur who intends to service digital watches. No previous FLUME ELECTRONIC SERVICE SYSTEM background in electronics is necessary to enter the field of digital Large 2V." Loose Leaf Binder Complete with 75 Specification watch service. The information contained in this book is Sheets - $59.95 fundamental and pertinent to all quartz watches. It is a must for 1st Supplement - Now Available - Contains 25 Calibers - anyone interested in digital watch service. $17.95

Quartz Watch Repairs Are Very Easy To Adapt To. • Seminars are Available to Everyone in The Industry e Training Manuals are Available & Easy to Understand e Equipment - Tools - Supplies are Available to You Now e Cost is Modest in Relation to the Potential Return

YES! I Am Interested In Quartz Watch Repairs - Please Send Information. D Check Here for Booklet on Available Tools - Supplies - Equipment D Please Phone Me with Additional Information at -Area 0 Check Here if You Would be Interested in a Seminar

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June 1981 /Horological Times 3 President's Message/ Joe Crooks

HOW TIME FLIES!

t is hard to believe that a year not make it this time, please try I has gone by since I began again ; your AWI needs your input. serving as President of the A WI! This past year has been very For making the job easier, my gratifying. I have met and made thanks go out to the AWl Directors, many friends throughout the good instructors, and committee mem- old USA. The hospitality has been bers, as well as to the members of terrific! I will never forget you AWI. Thanks also to Hal Herman wonderful people in our profession. and the staff of the Horological With your help, our mem­

Times, and especially to Milt \ 4 " ­ bership has grown to an all-time Stevens, Mike Danner, and the Joe Crooks high. Keep up the good work; talk a women behind the scenes who meeting on June 28th in Cincinnati. friend into joining A WI. You will get out the work at AWI Central. With such a selection of talented be doing him a great favor, and we By now, the ballots will be individuals, it's a shame all these all will benefit from associating in for the new Directors of AWl, to fine, dedicated people cannot be with another horologist interested be installed at the Board of Directors elected. To the ones who do in furthering our profession. w::::::rB

QUEEN CITY

••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has, SEMINARS since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure Now in its seventh year, and with attendees over the material houses in the continental United States, offering 900 mark, we are currently sponsoring in a sepa­ full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and rate location at 34 West 6th Street in Cincinnati, batteries, including genuine materials from such factories five day seminars in jewelry making and repair. as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega, Equipment used is the most modern available. longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other Seminars are as follows: popular brands. We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler 1. A primary five day class in ring sizing, assem­ and watchmaker, os well os regular and jewelry findings, bling heads and shanks, prong rebuilding, stone setting, plating, and related functions. Classes are clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical limited to six to permit personalized instruction. goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bogs, Findings used are 14K die struck. imprinted on our own presses. The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us 2. Five days of advanced jewelry work for those for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise who have attended the primary seminar. which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service. 3. Five day seminars in casting rings, pins, and pendants by the lost wax process. Wax modeling, Catalogue Available on Request carving, and design.

THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY WRITE FOR BROCHURE 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 The E. & J. Swigart Co. I (513) 721-1427

4 Horologica/ Times/June 1981 No, y0u d0n't have t0 ~e a oompUter . ex~ert to operate the new Vibrasonic A-800. payment tEj!rms and trade-rn allowance available. Call, or write us n0w. It's really qqite simple. YOIJ ean GUStomize the cleaning sequences and gperating time •. by pre-s.etting the program. The Vibr~sonic A-800 will perform each part of The Escap® servomotor (a Portescap the cleaning sequence automatically, even repeat stages. product) is at the command center of the A-800 automatically controlled cleaning It's a flexible system, at any one of the five stages of system. It reacts instantly to all command operation you can interrupt, stop, or change instructions. signals. Its very high operating efficiency The Vibrasonic A-800 "Servo Electronic Motor" and heavy duty construction ensure long life. provides for quiet, extremely efficient, and exactly timed cleaning stage shifts. And, there's no need to balance The Vibrasonic A-BOO-Once again Portescap shows movements. you how to clean-up. The Vibrasonic A-800 can handle up to 15 watch movements, 1 small clock or pocket watch. Economical VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION to operate, the A-800 accepts all new watch lubricants. 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, New York 11042 It's a complete system with accessories. (516) 437-8700 FREE DEMONSTRATION! Move your watch cleaning operations into the '80's! Your Portescap Vibrograf machine salesman will be happy to give you a complete 0 Portescap U.S. demonstration in your place at no obligation. Easy manufacturers of incabloc" and Vibrograf" Our Readers Write

Publishing Critique

Today's mail brought the most recent issue of the HATS OFF TO MR. RICHMOND Horological Times. I've long admired the colorful, often spectacular, covers of the magazine. Now I think it's time My hat is off to Mr. Marshall F. Richmond! I am one to say something more ... of those watchmakers who has never had any training in jewelry I don't read each issue, but I do scan-all the way repair and soldering. I became so interested in his articles through. From this I can make a clear-cut determination on jewelry repair that I have cut them all out and placed them of expertise in evidence of excellence of both content and in a binder for back reference when necessary. presentation. You are doing an outstanding job of publishing. On the strength of his articles alone, I have purchased While I lack actual professional horological experience, I think all the necessary equipment for jewelry soldering and am I may qualify at the level of writing-editing-publishing as successfully at it, thanks to his very thorough and detailed having some direct knowledge. I wanted to say so. explanations of the art. I would like him to know that I am very appreciative of his articles. Herb Mitchell H. L. Mitchell & Associates Pasadena, California Ted Gielniak La Feria, Texas

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6 Horological Times/June 1981 ,.------WATCH BATTERIES------.. Ewing Brothers maintains a comprehensive supply of fresh watch and calculator batteries. We stock EVEREADY, MAXELL, ACCUTRON, BULOVA TIMEX and other fine batteries. INTRODUCTORY SPECIAL OFFER for NEW ACCOUNTS ONLY EVEREADY Batteries Numbers Lithium 323 & 343 for the low price of .65¢ ea. Battery No. 803 only $1.05 ea. Prices apply to initial order only. Supplied in lots of 5 pieces of a number only.

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2030 Weems Road (P.O. Box 445) • Tucker, Georgia 30084 • Telephone: (404) 938-0115 l\\:AliiCIH A\I[)JIIUSlr~\IE~lrS

By Joseph Rugole, CMW

Adjustments of Mean Time

\ A/ e have discussed the formula for time of one vibration These are all legitimate ways of increasing or re­ V Von a number of occasions. It is necessary to have one ducing the mass. The least desirable of all is the filing of last look at this before we conclude the discussion on watch screws, followed by drilling the tops and enlarging the screw­ adjustments. This time, however, we will look at it somewhat slots. On fine-quality watches, these three methods are to be differently, trying to determine under what conditions the avoided because they deface the balance wheel to a certain time of one vibration will change, so that we can devise some extent, especially if the work is sloppy. The most desirable means to change it at will. method is to undercut the screws as shown in Figure 1. There This formula may suffice for our discussion and will is a further limitation when dealing with a split bimetallic not be expanded: balance. To maintain the adjustment to temperature, all the alterations of the mass must be done between the arm of T = rr .J mk2/s the balance and half-way to the cut in the rim. Monometallic screwless balances present another The components are as follows: problem. Because there are no screws, there is no possible acceptable way to add mass to the balance wheel. The mass T = time of one vibration can only be removed by drilling the underside of the balance rr = constant (ratio of the diameter to the circumference rim. This is one of the major disadvantages of screw less balance of the circle) wheels. If the watch is too fast and the adjustment cannot be m = the mass of the balance wheel made by the regulator, the only solution is to replace the k = the radius of gyration of the balance wheel balance completely. s = the elastic force of the hairspring Adjusting a watch to mean time by manipulating the mass is a standard procedure for all watches with screw­ type balance wheels, but it is used only to bring the mean At this time, we want to find out how the time of rate close enough to switch to a finer adjustment, either by one vibration can be changed without disturbing other ad­ using a regulator or by using the mean time screws. In certain justments, such as temperature compensation, middle tem­ timekeepers, the regulator is omitted entirely and the adjust­ perature error, isochronism, and adjustments to position. ments are made by other means. Many marine chronometers One look at the formula will disclose that only one of the were made without regulators; on them, the final adjustments components, i.e., rr, can never be changed. It should be noted are made by mean time screws. Experiments were also made that the change does not have to be automatic as was the with ordinary 1071 ligne watches to adjust them without the case with temperature compensation. The only condition is regulator. When the regulation was completed, the watch that it leaves other adjustments as unaffected as possible. kept time as well as with the regulator until it needed ser­ The change of the mass can be accomplished in a vicing again. number of different ways. Adding the mass to the balance The second variable in the formula is the radius of wheel will always slow down the rate and vice versa. The most gyration. The basic concept of the radius of gyration was frequently used methods to add weight are: a) to place timing explained earlier in this series of articles and need not be washers under the opposite screws; b) to replace a pair of defined again. The earliest use of the radius of gyration for opposite screws by a heavier pair. purposes of regulation to mean time was the introduction of To remove weight or mass from the balance wheel, the mean time screws. Good-quality watches with screw­ we use the following techniques: type balances normally have one or two pairs. They can be identified in Figure 2 as having smaller heads and longer threads, a) undercutting the screws by the use of a lathe and graver and as being screwed in only part of the way. This allows the b) undercutting the screws by using the balance screw under- watchmaker to change the radius of gyration as needed with­ cutters or end mills out changing the mass of the wheel. The opposite pairs of c) drilling the top of the screw screws are turned either in or out for an equal number of d) enlarging the screw slots turns, half turns, or quarter turns. The change in the radius e) filing the opposite screws of gyration is sufficient to change the mean rate by several f) replacing a pair of opposite screws by a lighter pair minutes in the extreme, but usually only differences smaller

8 Horological Times/June 1981 l\~AlliCiti A\()JIIU~lr~\~~lr~

Figure 1 Figure 3. Eccentric weights placed on the balance arm

Figure 2

Figure 4. Gyromax balance wheel with movable collets than one minute are adjusted by mean time screws. These lem can be somewhat relieved by using the techniques for screws must never be mutilated by filing, drilling, or under­ dynamic poising to check and control the poise of the balance cutting. They must also be used in pairs, so that the poise wheel. of the balance wheel is not altered. The Gyromax balance wheel developed by the Patek Other methods for regulating the mean rate of the Philippe Watch Company under patent No. 261431 is a fine balance wheel by changing the radius of gyration were used example of utilization of the radius of gyration to regulate the by Mauthe Clock Company with the introduction of the watch to mean time. Figure 4 explains the principle used very floating balance wheel. The regulator on this type of balance clearly. The solid monometallic balance wheel rim is milled wheel is part of the wheel itself. The wheel has a pair of sliding out in several places on opposite sides, but a pin is left in the weights mounted near the rim and connected to the regulator center of the milled-out portion. A small collet is fitted fric­ arm in such a way that when the regulator is moved, the tion tight on each pin, but each collet is slotted like a regular weights slide either closer to the center of rotation or further hairspring collet. When the slots are turned outward so that away from it, creating a difference in the radius of gyration of they are on a radial line with the center of the balance, the the balance. This method was also used by Elgin on one of their balance wheel has the smallest radius of gyration, and the wrist watch models with limited success. The problem is to keep watch gains. When the slots are turned inward, the radius of the balance wheel in poise. Even the slightest variation in gyration is the largest and the rate the slowest. Any inter­ the positioning of the weights could produce serious positional mediate position is available for regulation as long as any two errors, mainly because the weights are rather heavy. In the opposite collets are turned for the same amount. The collets case of the floating balance used in mantel clocks, this prob­ are almost completely hidden in the rim of the balance wheel lem does not exist because the clock runs only in one position. so that the air friction on the balance wheel is minimal. To Another suggestion is found in Jandritzki's book on illustrate the success of this arrangement, it is sufficient to watch adjustments. See Figure 3. Two eccentric weights are point out that this type of balance wheel was used in some attached to the balance arm of a screwless balance wheel in of the finest Patek Philippe watches produced by the company. the same manner as on chronograph watches. The difference The third and the last variable used in the formula is only the shape of the head which, in order to allow room for is the elastic force of the hairspring. The methods used to the hairspring, must be very flat. The only problem with this utilize it in adjustments to mean time will be explained in arrangement is keeping the balance wheel in poise. This prob- next month's article. 'U[J]3

Jun e 1981 /Horological Times 9 Book Review/ Henry B. Fried

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS of and for the Clockmaking does "center of oscillation" mean? How is a wood movement Profession by Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW; James L Tigner, assembled? What may cause a clock to over strike-that is, CMC; Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, and others. Published strike one or more hours in addition to what is indicated by by The American Watchmakers Institue. 11 x 8~ inches, soft the hands or snail? And there are many, many more. covers, 224 pages, 140 illustrations. Published 1981 at $10.95. In the second section, devoted to the "how-to" of clock repair and restoration, understanding the adjustments This publication is in the form of a textbook for those studying to the escapements, heat treatment of metals, adjustments clock repair and restoration. The American Watchmakers to the striking mechanisms, and a 9-page section of clock Institute, publisher of this book, has commissioned three of definitions, are among the chapter headings. This part of the its leading teacher/experts to create this volume, which also book is profusely illustrated with 140 excellent photographs includes key sections by other member writers and specialists. and professional drawings. This publication is a fine text which will assist both There are detailed drawings of the Connecticut shelf the student and the practicing clockmaker. The format of this striking movement, chime clock movements, 9-tube triple book presents two main sections: the first part contains 92 chime movements, striking arrangement and adjustment, pages and 466 questions and answers, and the second section cuckoo striking, and wood-works movements and their striking contains detailed, illustrated instruction on the various phases arrangements. of clockmaking and repair. In all, there are twelve chapter­ A section on general repairs, escapements, and heat­ like categories. Among these are: the 400-day clock; carriage treatment of metals presents a detailed analysis of each topic. clocks; cuckoo clocks; wooden movement clocks; the pen­ Also covered are barrel teeth repairs, pivoting and pivot dulum; various escapements; train gearing; power sources; restoration, bushing and hole closing, and remounting of strike trains; cleaning the lubrication; electrical clocks; elec­ wheels upon arbors as well as securing loose wheels. Repairs tricity; and theory and mathematics concerned with clock- -and capping of the center arbor, clickwork and clicks, and making and repair. . dovetailing of wheel teeth also make up parts of this secrion. Some sample questions answered in detail in the first Escapements included in the instruction are the section are: How is the pendulum adjusted in a Kundo tran­ :Brocot, recoil, dead-beat, and gravity escapements, the Keebler­ sistorized clock? How is the indexing mechanism adjusted in Lux drum-type, and the floating balance with helical, dual a Kundo clock? How is the 400-day clock put in beat? What .directional hairspring~ all very well illustrated in fine detail. Most of this section was contributed by the main authors and other experts on the A WI technical committee staff. The final section of this book contains various tables of clock-key' 'siz.es and millimeter equivalents, heat treatment tables, pendulum lengths and vibration rates, drill and tap sizes and tables, as well as other conversion tables needed in various phases of clockwork. Taps and drills, hints and helps, as well as trade terms defined are included in this last section, along with a page of drawings on the dimensions of various lathe chucks (collets). This book is unique and effective in its format, con­ tents, and presentation. The authors and editors have done their homework on this three-year effort. It is authoritative and can be highly recommended as one of the best books on clockmaking, equally useful to the professional clockmaker Special Introductory Price $1.39ea. or the novice. '~ 30'4

UTHIUM 803 BATTERY . ed Replacement for Authonz .... the 303 Ba"ttef'/ ·P·r~~~ than Ge1n City College Costs Less to . . . Oxide Battenes ..... Sliver Resistance to Has Greater .. . The School with Time For You Choose courses in watch and/or clock repairing, engraving, jew­ Salting. · · · · · · ~f· ~if~ ·... . elry.Qiamond setting or jewelry store management. Has a Longer She Great Career Opportunities Be A Professional Work Anywhere Craftsman New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. JEW~~~~j_) Placement service for graduates. Write for Free Bulletin ,.,.EA eooE t1Z154&-~ A15 1100·742 · 0~ MINNESOTA W TS 1100·321~\& GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCHOOL NA1lOf

10 Horological Times/June 1981 YES! I li)(.E.~!: Please send details of complete I Phone (813) 577·4553 styles and sizes. I 10870·49th Street North, Clearwater, FL 33520 I

Name ------I (please print) I Address ------I City ______State ____ Zip ___ I 11------!1 ,,

'' © 1981

By Otto Benesh, CMC

A Plethora of Pliers

he most difficult part of preparing this article was or grinding away the corrugations on the inside of the jaws T coming up with a title. After consulting a crystal ball, until they are smooth. Then a notch is filed or sawed on one Egyptian sand divinations, and pundits from far and near. a jaw as shown in Figure 2. Another pair is prepared in the same six-year-old named Plethora Palmer came up with this sug­ manner, except that the other jaw is notched as shown in F stion. Figure 3. While one pair may be used for both removing and Last month. we discussed what could be done to replacing the taper pins, it can be a little awkward holding make measuring devices by modifying tools that are readily them because of the offset of the jaws. This second pair available. Now that we have a whole set of tools for measuring, eliminates the problem. let us turn our attention to tools for holding. pushing. pulling. The jaws also may be m .... wfied by first smoothing and straightening. out the corruga ti ons and then nling a groove at ri ght angles All of these tools are modifications of implements to the jaw as sh own in Figure 4. This psir is excellent for readily obtainable from watch and clock supply houses , hard­ ho.lding round objects such as arbors , when checking the ware stores, and stores stocking automotive tools. tightness of wheels , ti.gh ten ing screwed-in pillars, or performing The first tool to be described is shown in Figure 1 . o ther tasks that re quire holding while applying considerable It is a pair of pliers commonly called ignition pliers. The jaws pressure. are offset, adjustable for width, and are about 5 inches in Another modification is shown in Figure 5. This pair length. The offset feature allows you to exert considerable has had brass inserts soldered on, which reduces scratching pressure. and marring to a minimum. These pliers provide a lot of The first modification makes the pliers suitable for pressure and may be used for bending, as a hand press, and for removing and replacing taper pins. This is done by first filing adjusting polished pieces that may be marred by other means.

Figu r e 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6

12 Horo/ogical Times/June 1981 ""L()tti ~~fl IE~"

Figure 7 Figure 8 FigureS

Figure 10 Figure 11 Fi~ure12

Figure13 Figure 14 Figure 15

The inserts arc easily replaced when they are worn from use. Actually, when wooden works are assembled, two An old pair of pliers is shown in Figure 6. These have rubber bands are used to hold the plates together while assem­ a patent date in the late 1800's, and are different, in that when bling: one at the top and one at the bottom. This does make you squeeze the handles, the jaws open up. They work just separating the plates a bit easier. the opposite from regular pliers. As they are no longer available, Another modified pair of pliers is shown in Figure a replacement was sought, and the pair shown in Figure 7 10. This is a pair of smooth-jaw, flat nose pliers. The ends have was located. They are known as valve keeper pliers, and you been altered as shown in Figure 11. The upper jaw is " little can see that, by squeezing the handles together, the jaws shorter than the bottom and has been rounded and polished. open up. The modification performed was drilling and tapping They are used to straighten escape wheel teeth that have been one jaw so that machine screws of different lengths could bent as shown in Figure 12. The pliers are used by engaging. be inserted as shown in Figure 8. the flat jaw with the flat portion of the escape wheel tooth Figure 9 shows one of the uses of this pair of pliers. and pulling the pliers away from the wheel while applying When a wheel in a clock has to be moved one or more teeth, pressure to the pliers at the same time. This allows the rounded the pliers give you great control in spreading the plates just portion to follow the curve of the tooth and results in a nicely enough to move the wheel without disturbing all the others. straightened tooth. Undoubtedly, one of our sharp-eyed readers will notice that For smaller and more delicate escape wheel teeth , the illustration shows the plates pinned together, making the the same idea is used. However, instead of a pair of pliers, spreading a bit difficult if not impossible. This is photographic a pivot straightening tweezer is used as shown in Figure 13. license (a mistake).

June 1981 /Horolop,ica/ Times 13 •

Figure 16 Figure 17 Figure 18 Figures 14 and 15 show a pair of pliers adapted for handling small taper pins. These are ordinary, flat-nose pliers, and a notch has been filed in the end of one jaw for removing or replacing a pin as shown in Figure 14. A small notch has also been filed in order to allow for a change in the angle of application. The three grooves on the top of the jaw are for locating the notch. They can be seen more readily than the notch and also may be used to locate the position of the notch by touch. An additional change is shown in Figure 15. A small groove has been filed across the jaws, in addition to one that goes lengthwise. These are used to hold taper pins while being started in their holes. As you know, taper pins have a Figure 19 Figure 20 nasty habit of twisting and flipping. These grooves help prevent such nastiness. This plan also was applied to a pair of medium heavy tweezers as shown in Figure 16. Many times, the angle of approach possible with a pair of pliers is not the most advantageous. You must either use them horizontally or vertically, and this can be awkward. Figure 1 7 shows that by filing or grinding off a corner of the NEW PRICES pliers, a much more comfortable position can be achieved. BElWEEN 1¢-2¢ ea. Figure 18 shows a pair of right-angles needle nose SINGLE SHOULDER pliers that have had the ends shortened. (Sort of a nose job.) No. 600.031 Shortening gives them a lot more strength at the ends. They Specify 1/4", 3/8", 7/16",1/2", Box of 100 $ 1.50 are used, among other things, for the removal of mainsprings 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", or 3/4". Per 1000 11.50 as was explained in a previous article. Also, they are useful for bending the upper portion of the inner hole end of a ~~~~~~~~~~~~~DOUBLE SHOULDER No. 600.048 mainspring, either in the barrel or out of it. Specify3/8",7/16",1/2",9/16", Boxof100 $ 1.50 5/8", 11/16", 3/4", 7/8". Per 1000 12.00 A complement to the above pair is shown in Figure 19. Short concave and convex pieces are hard soldered on the TELESCOPIC tips of the needle-nose pliers. They are specifically designed No. 600.041 Specify 7/16"-1/2",1/2"-9/16", Box of 100 $ 2.00 to reach down and grab the lower portion of the mainspring 5/8"-11/16", or 11/16"-3/4"-13/16". Per 1000 18.00 for straightening after the spring has been wound in the barrel. This assures that the spring end is parallel with the CURVED No. 600.032 arbor. This is shown in Figure 20. Box of 100 $ 2.00 P. Palmer wishes you happy horologing and good Specify 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", or 3/4", Per 1000 18.00 fortune with all these pliers. liCII3 ~M.,....__ SPRING BARS Our Swest Spring Bars are of excellent quality and available in all the most popular sizes and styles. Sizes within a stock number may be assorted for 1000 price. Order by our TOLL-FREE WATS LINES: Nationally to Dallas. . . . . 1-800-527-6057 Texas to Dallas ...... 1-800442-3092 California to Glendale . . . 1-800-232·2136 Western States to Glendale...... 1-800423-2706 t® ~.~E£~.s.~~.~:;~~nl (Hawaii, Alaska, Wash ., Ore .. Nev ., Utah, Idaho, Ariz.) ~,...-...~lates & Bridges Reworked or Duplicated; t.~.':.j Wheel and Pinion Cutting; f?.JAI'I DEPT HT .,.,{.,;,<' Clock & Watchmakers Tools and Equipment repaired l)fh~ INC. Bernard J. Petit P.O. Box 70004 F=ORMERLY SOUTHWEST SMELTING & REF=INING Instrument maker Charleston, SC 29405 10803 COMPOSITE DR. DALLAS. TEXAS 75220 and Horologist Tel. 803-553-1198 1725 VICTORY BLVD. GLENDALE. CA 91201

14 Horological Times/June 1981 AVAILABLE AGAIN!

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June 1981/HoroloKical Times 15 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER© 1981

By Marvin E. Whitney, CMC, CMW American Chronometer Makers Part VIII

efore continuing with the exploits with torpedo boat watches which were since his instruments were fitted with B of American chronometer makers, fitted with steel hairsprings. steel springs, he protested its use. The it may be well to digress and pursue the On January 24, 1903, Negus ironic part about Negus's "tempest in use of palladium for chronometer hair­ wrote the Naval Observatory protesting the teapot" was that he, too, had sub­ springs, since this practice became quite the use of palladium in chronometers mitted chronometers fitted with pal­ controversial during the latter part of the being submitted to the Observatory for ladium springs to the Observatory for 19th and the beginning of the 20th competitive trials and purchase by the trial. They also passed trial and were century. Navy. This caused great consternation purchased by the Navy, with the Ob­ Heinrich was the first American among the Observatory's hierarchy. Upon servatory being none the wiser. maker to fit a chronometer with a pal­ receipt of Negus's letter, the Observatory William Bond and Son, C. A. ladium hairspring which is readily under­ wrote the other makers requesting their Geissler, and the American Waltham standable since he was a perceptive opinions as to the merits of palladium, Watch Company agreed with Negus, student of chronometry. Other makers for they had been "advised of the sus­ their reasoning being that palladium was were of the opinion that it had some pected use in some cases of palladium untrustworthy for this purpose. However, potential, but as is so often the case when instead of steel for hairsprings submitted all agreed that palladium had certain something new makes its appearance for trial and purchase by the Navy." advantages, such as being rust free, having which involves a change, whether good or The letter also stated that the a much smaller coefficient of expansion, bad, there was a certain amount of Observatory was opposed to the use of and, best of all, being non-magnetic. resistance shown. Thus, many of the any new metal or new method of con­ After reviewing the opinions makers were willing to wait for others struction of chronometers submitted for of the various makers, the Observatory, to pioneer the cause. trial and purchase for the use on naval in a letter to the Bureau dated March Although the Navy was looking vessels, unless "such metal or methods 11, 1903, wrote, " ... In view of these for a material that would not be sus­ had either been approved or were expressly facts, it is recommended that makers ceptible to oxidation and was non­ under trial as such." be notified at once by the Observatory magnetic, they, too, were very reluctant In this connection, the Superin­ as follows for their guidance in pre­ to purchase instruments fitted with pal­ tendent stated, " . . . I beg to ask if paring chronometers for the next trial. ladium hairsprings. This was true even you know of any chronometers that "Chronometers with palladium when they were aware of the glowing you have manufactured or repaired for hairsprings will not be admitted to the reports that were emerging from the this Observatory and that are still in use regular annual chronometer trial until Royal Observatory at Greenwich re­ which have auxiliary compensation, cor­ further test of those now under trial garding the excellent performance of rectors, or aids to compensation, or flat and in use shall have shown that pal­ those instruments with palladium springs. rim balances." ladium is as reliable as steel in actual Heinrich's first chronometer to John Bliss, Jr. strongly defended service." be fitted with a palladium spring was the use of palladium, citing the results On March 13th, the Observatory number 3458. He believed that it was of its performance in chronometers notified all makers that the Bureau had the answer to many of the problems during trials at Greenwich. Bliss, un­ approved the Observatory's recommen­ that horologists had experienced down beknown to the Observatory, had sub­ dations. through the years. John Bliss, Jr. was mitted chronometers with palladium This whole controversy arose won over by Heinrich, and he, too, springs which had passed with very over the anticipated order of seventy­ saw the positive advantages of using this excellent results and were purchased. eight new chronometers which the Navy phenomenal material. However, Negus Also, some of the chronometers pur­ had notified the makers that they wished was very adamant in proclaiming its chased by the Navy during the Spanish­ to purchase. The Navy had received unworthiness, as were Bond, Geissler, American War, without trial, had pal­ commitments of twenty-seven instru­ and the American Waltham Watch Com­ ladium hairsprings. Bliss did nothing ments from Bliss, ten fran Bond, nine pany. The American Walthem Watch dishonorable or fraudulent, for there from Geissler, and thirty-two from Company was not involved in making was nothing in the Navy's specifications Negus. chronometers, but it was one of several forbidding its use. It is evident that Before receiving the Observa­ watch companies supplying the Navy Negus got wind of Bliss's success, and, tory's letter of the 13th, Negus had written

16 Horological Times/June 1981 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER ~' 9 ' 0 the Observatory, stating that he wished January 2 to June 22, 1903, twenty-two before had so vehemently protested to withdraw all of his new chronom­ new chronometers passed and were palladium's use. eters from the present trial. He stated, purchased. Some were fitted with pal­ The Observatory Superinten­ "I do not wish to have them subjected ladium springs while others were fitted dent's annual report to the Bureau for to comparison with chronometers fitted with steel. This was the last trial in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1904, with palladium hairsprings while mine which makers were supposed to be per­ read in part, " ... The test applied to have steel." mitted to submit chronometers with chronometers shows that palladium is less The Observatory wrote Negus, palladium springs since the Navy specifica­ susceptible to the variations of tem­ saying, " . . . pending consideration of tions were ammended to preclude the perature, which, as our ships go to all this question which cannot be regarded use of palladium until further experiences parts of the world, is an important factor as an absolute right inasmuch as the with palladium had satisfied the Bureau in their care, but whether the material chronometers were submitted in accor­ that it was as reliable as steel. However, will retain its spring as long as steel is dance with previous agreement for trial the Observatory noted that the perfor­ yet to be determined." and purchased according to specifica­ mance of those chronometers fitted with Then, no later than August tions that did not specially forbid the use palladium springs during trial had a 13, 1904, the Observatory notified of palladium. Please inform us which of flatter rate curve and better record than Bliss, Bond, and Negus that for the next your chronometers entered in previous those of steel. Nevertheless, they still trial to commence January 1, 1905, trials had palladium hairsprings. questioned its permanence and durability " ... all chronometers entered must have "It is desired to keep an accurate while in actual service at sea. steel hairsprings and it is preferred that record of all chronometers in service While all of this controversy these shall be heat-colored, yellow or with palladium hairsprings in order to was going on over palladium, a new nickel­ blue, to avoid any questions as to their study the reliability and endurance of steel alloy had been developed in Switzer­ composition." land which showed great promise the metal as compared with steel. We The Observatory's indecisiveness in that its length remained constant in already have a complete list of those regarding the merits of palladium con­ spite of changes in temperature. supplied by other American makers." tinued for several additional years. In September 19 03, the Naval When Bliss received the Ob­ Finally, after· additional trials at the Observatory recommended to the Bureau servatory's letter regarding the prohibi­ Observatory and at sea, the Observatory that they purchase three Nardin chro­ tion of the palladium hairsprings, he "saw the light" and the issue was resolved. nometers with Guillaume nickel-steel· raised the question as to whether the They decided that palladium was just balances and hairsprings since they had Bureau would allow the entry in the as reliable as steel, and that the perfor­ performed very well during recent trials next trial of chronometers with palladium mance of chronometers fitted with such at the Canton Observatory at N eucha tel. hairsprings. Bliss stated that "unless hairsprings was equal to or better than The Superintendant stated, " . . . It this decision be rescinded in his favor that of chronometers fitted with steel. is very desirable to put a few of these he would be unable to submit any chro­ New specifications were for­ chronometers through regular trial at the nometers for the next trial." mulated and in part read, "The chronom­ Regarding Bliss's letter, the Observatory and then test them at sea alongside other chronometers, as they eter shall have the ordinary compensated Observatory wrote the Bureau, stating, balance, with detent escapement and embody a newly discovered principle not " . . . The supply of chronometers is without auxiliary correctors, and shall yet accepted by American makers but likely to be short next year. The use beat half-seconds. The hairspring shall utilized in some of the best clocks and of palladium is allowed in the Admiralty be of steel or palladium .... " trials at Greenwich. chronometers abroad." "In view of the above and the Actually, only two N ardins were To this day, this portion of the further fact that Bliss is the only maker purchased, numbers 115 and 120. On specification still remains in the Navy who has raised this question or is likely May 31, 1904, the Observatory notified specifications for marine detent chronom­ to do so, it is recommended that any Mr. Paul D. Nardin that, although the eters. When Hamilton was approached maker who applies for such privilege trial was not completed, the present to make a marine chronometer, as were on the grounds stated, be allowed to trial number for number 115 was 18.56 the other watch companies in 1940, enter such chronometers provided that he and for number 120, 15.45. Upon the they refused to undertake the job of agrees to replace any palladium springs completion of the Observatory's trial, making a marine chronometer if they had with steel springs, free of cost, if required these instruments were given a sea trial; to adhere to the above specification. within five years after date of purchase." number 120 was issued to the U.S. S. Hamilton was willing only if they could As a testimony to Bliss's per­ , while number 115 was placed use their monometallic balance and severance and conviction that palladium on board the U.S .S. Harford. Both in­ elinvar hairspring which had proved would indeed enhance the performance struments performed very well while so successful in some of their watches. of chronometers, nineteen of his twenty­ at sea. The navy waved this portion of the two chronometers on trial when the The Navy continued to vacil­ specifications and the rest of the story controversy began passed trial and were late over the type of hairspring that is history, as they produced 8,902 chro­ purchased. In comparison, Bond had could be used in chronometers submitted nometers for the Navy, plus another two of sixteen, Geissler one of three, for competitive trials .. In the trial held 3,100 for the U.S. Army, U.S. Air Force, and Negus three of eleven to pass trial for new chronometers from January Maritime Commission, and later for and be purchased. All of these, other 14 to June 20, 1904, twelve of the forty­ civilian use. Hamilton's marine chro­ than Bliss's, were fitted with steel hair- two chronometers submitted had pal­ nometer is known as Model 21, but springs. ladium springs. Ironically, those twelve those made for the U.S. Air Force were During the competitive trial held were submitted by Negus, who the year known as Model 121, although there were

June 1981 /Horological Times 17 no changes whatsoever in the design. WE WILL NOT BE UNDERSOLD With the palladium issue put to rest, let's continue our discussion of American chronometer makers. LOW, MAX, 44 Fulton Street, . Mr. Low was born in Austria in 1889 and at an early age displayed a keen interest in various mechanisms. Max had an uncle living in Poland who was a watch/clockmaker. Since Max exhibited such an intense interest in mechanical devices, he was sent to live with his uncle who taught him the art of watchmaking. He enjoyed his work immensely, and the desire to excel in his newly learned trade resulted in his going to Bienne, Switzerland. There he continued to fulfill his quest for horological knowledge and improve his technical skilL particularly in the area of complicated watches. Max came to America in 1910, settling in New York City where he opened a watch shop, specializing in the repair of repeaters. He enjoyed the challenge that complicated time­ pieces presented and, in seeking further challenges, became in­ trigued with the chronometer. Being endowed with greater than average acumen and business ability, after he mastered the chronometer, he expanded his business to include not only the sale and repair of chronometers, but also the servicing and selling of other types of nautical instruments and timepieces. Max had two sons, Jack and Charles. After Jack com­ pleted his schooling, he entered the business as his father's assistant. In the early 1940's, when Max brought chronometers to the Observatory, Charles, just a youngster then, traveled with him. In 1962, Mr. Low purchased the firm of T.S. & J.D. Negus. In the early months of World War II, the Maritime Commission and Navy were experiencing a critical shortage of chronometers. In 1942, Mr. Low, as one of several entrepreneurs (Continued on page 44)

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~24 pp, ill us, (-i .~ 9, s1g 95 ~ P,.lrnex 720 Geneva St. Lake Geneva, WI 53147 PHONE: (414) 248-2000 J-61581 It's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ Please send the items I have checked below. Enclosed is my payment in the amount of $ ______technical guide to help you keep up with the d;sital NAME ______watch revolution. Here, in this one book, you'll find all ADDRESS ______you need to know about how they work, how they're designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford CITY ------to be without this handbook, written by one of the STATE ZIP original developers of electronic watches. QTY PRICE TOTAL Horological Time8 __QA-700 @ $ $ PO Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 __PR-200 @$ $ Yes, please rush me HThc Digital Electronic Watch." I am enclosing $ 21 .4 5 (cost $1 9 .9 5 plus $1 .50 for postage) U.S. [unds only. Please __PR-201 @ $ $ allow approximately 4 weeks for de1ivery. Price subject to ehange. Please include the following hands: ,\:

18 Horological Times/June 1981 June 1981 /Horological Times 19 TIHIE PIICIK\LE IAIAIL

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

MISCELLANEOUS JEWELRY REPAIR Part II roken pinsten:s, pin?ack~, and safety. catches are often can easily be made from a piece of brass or nickel silver wire B encountered m domg Jewelry repa1r. Many can be of the proper diameter and a pair of round nose pliers. The repaired quickly with a small investment in findings and point can be turned in the watchmakers' lathe or chucked in material. As a large portion of these repairs are to costume a pin vise and the point shaped with a fine cut file by rotating jewelry, the cost of repair will often exceed the original cost it on the filing block while filing it before the wire is shaped. or replacement cost of the article. However, as a strong and durable repair can usually be made, we can in good conscience Better-quality costume jewelry usually has a one­ accept these items for repair when, for sentimental or other piece pinback that has the hinge pinstem, and safety catch reasons, the customer is willing to pay the price quoted. made in one piece. These arc die struck in three pieces. The Some costume pins are so inexpensively made that hinge often has pimples struck so the pinstem can be fitted the pinstem consists of only one piece of wire. This is pointed between d1e sides and squeezed together with pliers. The on one end with a two-coil spring for a hinge and a hook pimples fit the hole in the stem, forming the hinge, while the bent to form a catch, making it similar to a safety pin in shape. safety catch is squeezed over the h0ok and rotates to make This is soft soldered to the pin. See Figure 1, View A. These a lock. See Figure 1, View B. Figure 1

I '~------(, ], "'""" ""'-- "'""------,,;r ~ A

D Point a-

B H

G E

F

For Hard Soldering

20 Horological Times/June 1981 \

Point A I I ~ I

/ I

Figure2

Quality jewelry made of karat gold, gold filled, to peen and form the other end of the rivet . The riveted ends or sterling silver is made with hinges and safety catches that can simply be polished in order to leave no rough edges to are hard soldered to the pin with the stem being riveted in the catch on fabrics ; however, to do a really professional job, they hinge or fitted with a friction tapered hinge pin. Pinstems, can be finished with a cup bur in the flex-shaft tool, which will pinbacks, hinges, or safety catches are available from the leave each end of the rivet with a half-round dome, and then material jobber in assortments or limited numbers, depending polished. See Figure 1, View D, point a. on the metal used. The better metals (karat gold) can usually An alternative to this procedure is to make a taper be purchased in a minimum of one piece. pin by using a piece of wire slightly larger in diameter than the Pinstems are found in such varied lengths that often hole through the hinge and pinstem. Turn a long taper on the the correct length cannot be found in an assortment. However, wire in the watchmakers' lathe. Push this through the holes this is no problem as they can be chucked in the watchmakers' in the hinge and pinstem and cut off with about .Smm to lathe, a new point turned at the proper length, and then lmm protruding; then it can be pushed in still tighter with polished. If no pinstems are available , it is a simple job to chain nose pliers, or driven in tighter with a hammer on a make one using a piece of wire of the correct diameter. It watchmakers' bench block. Both ends can be cut off flush can be brass, nickel silver, silver, or karat gold, but should be with a jewelers' saw , then polished smooth. This also makes a metal comparable to the metal of which the pin is made. a very neat repair. Hold it in a vertical position with the heavy duty tweezers Pinstems on quality jewelry have a rocker-like shape and apply heat with a torch to the upper end until the end where they fit into the hinge joint; when properly installed, starts to melt and forms a glob or ball at the tip. See Figure the point of the rocker will allow the point end of the pin to 1, View H. Flatten this to the correct thickness with the steel close to within a short distance of the safety catch. See Figure chasing hammer on a steel anvil. See Figure 1, View G. Chuck I, View F, point a, and Figure I, View E, point a. This creates it in a pin vise and shape it with a fine-cut file; then drill with a spring action, as the pin must be pushed into the catch with a twist drill in the flex-shaft tool. Cut to length and shape the the length of the pinstem serving as the spring. Two purposes point either in the watchmakers' lathe or chucked in the pin are served by this spring action: first, it keeps tension on the vise as previously described. See Figure 1, View F. To make safety catch which lessens the chance of it working loose ; a rivet, a piece of wire of the same size is usually appropriate. second, when released, the pinstem springs away from the The head end can be formed by chucking it up in the lathe catch, making it easier to remove the pin from the garment. or in a pin vise and peening the end with the ball end of the Two types of safety catches are in general use . One chasing hammer. This will spread the end enough to form the hooks and is locked with a rotating lock. See Figure 1, View head. Push the wire through the hinge joint and pinstem, C. The other has a slot in the top through which the pin is cutting it off to leave a protrusion of about .Smm, or enough (Continued on page 45)

June 1981 /Horological Tim es 21 Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Repeater Automaton

Enclosed are two photos of a a watch, that same person would hal'f repeater watch which I have in for difficulty passing a fire hydrant, ster'i­ Q repair. The gold case looks like framed building, or any au tom obi/e. someone silver soldered a large hand- To stop a modern watch with magnetism engraved round plate on the snap corner would require many, many Oersteds. of the hunting case. The arms of the In my own experience with cus­ two figures move when the minute or tomers who complained that no watch hour strike. The blue portion of the dial would work on their wrists or in their is painted and does not look like it was pockets, I had each wind the 1vatch in my original. Also, I did not know that presence and report to me daily for a Longines ever made a repeater. Can any­ few days. Few ever returned except j(Jr one give me some information about periodic sen•icing of their timepieces. this movement? For the most part, those who comrlained Thank you. of this "phenonu:non" merely jiggled the winding crown, scared that thn 'd L. Hawkes over-wind the watch. When I urged Venice, Florida them to continue the winding, thc1' actually paled, scared that thn· would I have examined the 1912 catalog destroy the mechanism. Watch;s should of Longines, , Majestic, be wound until thev just can't be wound A Touchon and Agassiz (all under the any further, similar to winding a clock Wittnauer agency at that time). I could or a mainsrring-driven to1•. Watchmak!'rs find nothing resembling the movement or and jewelers wind a watch in a very jew configurations of your watch. seconds by merelv running the side of The Longines dial could be original the index finger, end join 1 ji-om finger and could have been fitted to the plate tip to first joint (right hand}, across the with the automaton figures. That was knurled H'inding button until, repeating done more frequently than might be this operatio)J, the finger skin skids believed. The plate with figures was a against the resisting knurled edge. This separate manufacture, available to anyone should power the watch jar over forty who would take the time to fit it to hours, although dai/1· winding is best (or existing repeaters. good timekeeping. · The repeater movement doesn't In the case oj sel{1l'inding H'atchcs, resemble any thing that I could positively some people are \'cry inactil'e, espccial/1· identify. It might, however, be a LeCoultre bed-ridden people or older ralks \l'ho d.o ebauch repeater since they did supply not ha1·e sufficient arm inurement to ebauches to many who finished them help us? We'd be most grateful if you cause the automatic ll'inding n1ecl10nism with their names upon them; in your have any ideas about this. to store enough energy to kee11 the 1\'atch case, the name was omitted completely. running. Others H'ilO \\'Car traditional The watch dates from the early Sharon Vandercook watches just are l't'IT abusire u/ their 1900's. I wish I could be more positive San 1 oaquin Valley Information Service watches and get theni H'et, rust1·. ;>r hare about it. Fresno, California parts broken b1· their abu;e. Aside from this, am·. good, kn01rlcdgeahlc in my many years as a watch­ 1rarehmaker or jeH·clcr can teach the maker, teacher of watchmaking, H·earer hoH' to H·ear and usc a H'atch H> A consultant horologist, lecturer, and that this fJroren/imagined flroh/cm H'il/ We have a patron who can't wear writer, I have come across situations disappear. watches because they will not work in which a watch will not operate on Q on his wrist. These are regular, certain wearers. I have had complaints old-fashioned wind-up watches-not the that certain wearers have too much digital or quartz type. On other people "body magnetism" and other imagined the watch will run just fine, but it stops deterrents to timekeeping devices. l have had a watch come in fOJ when he wears it. As for the body magnetism, that repair and would like any in for­ Q mation you might have as to 1he We are trying to find some ex­ has been completely dispelled by in­ planation for this. Several watchmakers terested physicists through experiments repair of it. It's a Longines Model 19.7301 in town have heard of this happening, and other findings. If a person had pocket chronograph. but no one knows the reason. Can you enough magnetism in his body to stop (Continued on !'ilf,C' 5())

22 Horological Times/June 1981 Your customers may be better off if you supply a brand new movement.

FACTORY NEW MOVEMENTS ALL 17 JEWEL* -ALL INCABLOC ~[llirn@oo SHOCK PROTECTED*

Often, your customer will be better off if you supply a brand 59-21 new movement. Listed below are a number of movements we carry in stock. We suggest you save this page for future reference as the need develops. (List is in order of size.)

~AUBER SIZE HEIGHT FEATURES PRICE 1977-2 FHF 59-21 :f3,4 ·X 10L 3.50mm $27.70 AS 1977-2 5112 X 63/4L 3.60mm 25.40 FEF 6632 51/2 X 63/4L 29.10 ETA 2442 6L round 3.20mm 47.30 ETA 2412 6:Y4L round 3.40mm 26.10 FHF 69:N 631.1 X 8L 3.55mm 18.65 FHF 691 63,4 X 8L 4.10mm Sweep Second 20.05 69-21 ETA 2512-1 73/4L round 2.90mm 25.15 ETA 2551 73.4L round 2.90mm Auto, Date, Sweep 34.95 FHF 371 83/4L round 4.05mm Sweep Second 20.95 P7040 ·1l:iVz:L round 3.10mm Small Second 26.80 FHF 969 111Jzlround 4.55mm Sweep Second 17.~ FHF 969-4 11112 L round 4.55mm Sweep, Date '19.80 AS 1951 11V2L round 4.50mm Sweep, Date 20.30 AS 2066 W\.-'iL ro.und 5:95mm Auto, Day(Date Sweep S~ond 31 :50 ElA 2783 111kL round 5.20mm Auto, !Date, Sw~ 34.30 969 AS 5206 12Lrgund 6.50mm Auto, ID_ay/IDate Sweep S.eco.nd 22.60 UT 6491 161hL round 4.50mm 5mall Second 26,35 UT 6498 16V2L round 4.50mm Hunting case type, Small Second 26.35

QUARTZ ANALOG CAUBEA SIZE HEIGHT FEATURES PRICE ESA102, 001 33,4 X 10L 3.50mm QUARTZ ANALOG 41.60 E~A: ~1.001 63,4 X 8L 3.50mm QUARTZ ANALOG 25.65 ESA 960.111 11V2L round 4.50mm QUARTZ ANALOG $w~p . Date 27.30

*Except QUARTZ ANALOG, or if otherwise indicated. 6498 Write for complete watch movement interchangeability listing and clock movement brochure.

BOREL GROUP TOLL-FREE ORDER NUMBER 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, Mo. 64106 .Jittl·el Distribution Centers in 1-800/821-5686 GROUP CLEVELAND e KANSAS CITY e LOS ANGELES In Missouri 1-800/892-5818 NEW YORK • MIAMI • OAKLAND June 1981 /Horological Times 23 Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning

By Steven G. Conover *

ltrasonic cleaning machines are ments are not disassembled and personal choice which to use. In U a valuable tool for the clock re­ examined carefully, the work suf­ general, the non-ammoniated (such pairer. They permit faster and, in fers. If you are going to use an as L&R No. 6 77) is a faster solvent, most cases, more thorough cleaning ultrasonic cleaning machine, you but creates a higher risk of lacquer than soaking and brushing by hand. should take care to utilize it in a coming off the plates during the The ultrasonic action, working in way that will complement your cleaning process. With the am­ conjunction with special solvents repair practices. moniated solution (L&R Clock and rinse solutions, penetrates For clock cleaning, a ma­ Cleaning Solution Concentrate is an deep into the tiny recesses and chine with a 1\12 gallon capacity example), you must be sure to get crevices of the clock movement. is required. A smaller machine may all the water out of the move­ In fact, subassemblies or entire not handle larger movements and ment to prevent corrosion. movements can be cleaned, rinsed, parts. Three of the machines The way to remove all and dried all in one piece. This is available are the L&R Model traces of cleaning solution, including a great timesaver for the repairer, T-28 (tank size 11-3 /4 in. x 9-3 /8 in. the water-based type, is to use a who may judge that a movement x 6 in. deep), the Zenith Model rinse solution. You should rinse or part of a movement does not Z-200T (tank size almost the same immediately after cleaning, so the need disassembly for repairs. With­ at 11-1/2 in. x 9-1/2 in. x 6 in.), solvents will not spoil the finish out ultrasonics, it is risky to soak and the Branson Model 5 21 and on the clock parts. L&R specifies assembled parts because of the 52 (same size as the Zenith). It a petroleum distillate rinse (their danger that the interior surfaces is necessary to cover the clock No. 3 Watch & Clock Rinsing may not be cleaned well enough. parts completely, so the cleaning Solution) to follow the cleaning The solvent might mix with old oil will be effective. If the parts are process with either ammoniated and dirt to create a mess that placed directly in the tank, one or petroleum-based solutions. This rinsing and drying will not correct. gallon of solution is sufficient for manufacturer also advises that Ultrasonics can largely eliminate most jobs. The use of auxiliary thorough rinsing is required for a this worry. pans or baskets (to be discussed period at least as long as the cleaning. It is important to realize later) may require up to 1-1 /2 Rinsing should be done ultra­ that ultrasonics can be overused gallons of solution in the tank. sonically ; a dip in a container of by people who try to cut corners There are two basic types rinse will just not do the job by cleaning virtually all their move­ of solutions you can use: the properly. ments fully assembled. Much time ammoniated (water-based) and non­ Drying is the final step is saved, of course, by reducing ammoniated (petroleum-based). Dif­ in the cleaning process. Since the the bench work. But when needed ferent cleaning characteristics mark movement should not have water repairs are neglected because move- each one, and it is a matter of in it after the rinse, rust is not

24 Horological Times/June 1981 * ©STEVEN G. CONOVER 1981 Figure 1. (left) L&R Model T-28; (right) Zenith Model Z-200T. (Courtesy of L&R Manufacturing Co. and Zenith) likely to occur. Parts will air dry solvent which has been used many But I do not relish the thought in a few hours. However, the use of times. Oily, dirty movements will of receiving a clock back from a a clock movement dryer is still take longer than cleann ones. In­ customer because 1 failed to repair necessary for a good job. The flow clude the question of lacquer preser­ it properly. of warm air assures prompt and vation (which you cannot ignore), Other considerations aside, thorough drying of rinse solution and you are faced with several I have come to realize that an which may be trapped in small variables. lt would be nice to be able ultrasonic machine will clean most crevices of assembled movements. to switch on the machine and not assembled movements quite well. Perhaps the most pressing be concerned, but it is not as easy I have verified that even a barreled question about ultrasonic cleaning as that. You must make judgments, mainspring can be cleaned ultra­ is that of cleaning time. lt is your just as you do throughout the entire sonically. Recently I disassembled objective to get movements clean, clock repair procedure. a 400-day clock for cleaning, but but you must still have concern Five minutes is probably left the greasy spring in the barrel. for the lacquer finish present on the bare minimum cleaning time I removed the barrel cover and most brass parts, especially the for ideal conditions. In my own then cleaned the spring and barrel plates. Cleaning for too long a work, eight to ten minutes is for about 20 minutes (much period of time will partially remove average. Older movements may take longer than the plates)_ After the lacquer, creating a mottled 20 or 30 minutes if there is heavy rinsing and drying, I used my appearance much worse than a dirty dirt and oil to remove. After some mainspring winder to remove the movement. Some lacquer coatings experience with your own ultra­ spring. It was clean. l had kft the are very weak and will come off sonic machine and solvents, you spring in the barrel for several no matter how short the cleaning can judge cleaning times for your­ hours after turning off the dryer, time. In this instance, continued self. If there is waxy or oily con­ and when I finally did check the ultrasonic cleaning may remove tamination left in pinions, pivot spring, it was dry. The only trouble most of the lacquer. L&R suggests holes, or mainsprings, a movement is that, according to my own repJir the use of their Hydrosonic solu­ is still dirty no matter how good practices. 1 would have removed the tion, a water-based solvent which the plates look. spring annm_l' to check for weak­ they say is effective for lifting Cleaning ass em bled move­ ness or a torn end. This gets back to off lacquer. After a movement ments is probably frowned upon my earlier statement-it is up to is cleaned this way, it is rinsed in by many craftsmen who feel the you to fit an ultrasonic unit into warm water, then ultrasonically clock will not come out clean your repair methods. rinsed, cleaned again in a non­ and that solvents will remain There are several acces­ ammoniated solution if necessary, trapped inside. I am also opposed sories available for ultrasonic ma­ rinsed, and dried. In my own to cleaning assembled movements chines. For clock cleaning. the two experience, I have had very little in most cases-but for a different items shown in Figure 2 are very trouble getting movements clean reason. A thorough inspection of useful. The stainless steel mesh and yet keeping the lacquer in tact. the various parts of a clock usually basket permits easy handling of the Many older movements have no turns up a few things that need parts of a disassembled movement. lacquer at all anyway. to be corrected, such as scored On each end of the basket are tabs pivots, worn holes, and cracked which hook over the rim of the There is no simple answer ends on barreled mainsprings. A tank. The basket pictured is by to the question of cleaning time. freshly cleaned movement may run L&R. Branson offers an "insert New solution cleans faster than for months, even with these defects. tmy" which is perforated steel

June 1981 /llorologica! Times 25 Figure 2. (Courtesy of L&R) Figure 3. (Courtesy of L&R) instead of a mesh. The purpose of the during the course of a day. The auxiliary solvent and place it in the pan, which basket or perforated insert tray is to hold pan shown in Figure 2 will eliminate the holds the same volume of fluid. The pan loose parts safely and yet allow free need to drain the solvent from the ma­ is placed on the unit as shown in Figure circulation of the cleaning solution or chine after cleaning a movement or a 3. The fluid level in the main tank must rinse. There is no harm in placing the batch of parts. As I mentioned earlier, be high enough so the bottom of the auxi­ parts directly in the bottom of the tank you should rinse ultrasonically right after liary pan is below the solution leveL instead of using the basket which sus­ cleaning. This would mean you would When the unit is turned on, the ultra­ pends them above the bottom. However, have to drain the solvent from the unit sonics penetrate through the cleaning L&R warns that if you were to place and then refill with rinse solution each solution and into the pan and the rinse large parts in exactly the same place cycle. Instead, you can leave the cleaning fluid. repeatedly, their unit could be damaged solution in the tank and fill the separate One other feature I should men­ over a period of time. auxiliary pan with the rinse. First you tion is ultrasonic lubrication. After The auxiliary pan or solid insert would clean normally in the main tank, rinsing, the movement can be treated tray serves a different purpose and can with or without the basket. Then you ultrasonically in a special solution which save you time if you do a lot of cleaning would remove the movement from the is intended to serve in place of clock oil VI«XO ® SUPER MINI LATHE A miniature lathe that offers the high precision, performance and safety features of conventional, standard sized lathes-and at a lower cost. High Precision Main Spind Bearing Stainless Steel Tepeced T"l Spmdle

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26 Horological Times/June 1981 applied in the usual way. Drying under warm air leaves a thin film of lubricant over the entire movement, which does not feel greasy to the touch. I will withhold an opinion on this technique, except to say that I myself lubricate the tradi­ tional way, by applying clock oil with an oiler. Some thought must be given to proper storage of the chemicals used in ultrasonic cleaning. It is not a good idea to store the cleaning solution (either type) in the unit itself. Sediments will accumulate as the solvent becomes dirty, and these will coat the tank and eventually impede the ultra­ sonic cleaning. Another thought is that, although the stainless steel tank cover may fit well, it does not prevent evaporation. The best and safest place to store the solutions is in the gallon cans in which they come. Be sure to leave an air space in the can to allow for expansion. I wish to thank Messrs. Tom Lange and Paul MacKay of L&R Manufacturing Company for the courtesies extended to me during my recent visit to the L&R facility in Kearny, New Jersey. Thanks also to Mr. Ed Pedzy, President of Zenith Manufacturing and Chemical Corporation, for his advice on ultrasonic cleaning. 'l..ILIE

Why Not Drop lls A J Note1

EXPRESS YOURSELF! What you do like . .. what you don't like AWl/ about the Horological Times Horological Times. 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Watch Repair • Clock and Jewelry Repair • Lapidary

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June 1981 /Horological Times 27 SALES TALK

By Wes Door, CMW Lead That Sale

1\ re you and I leaders? Of course we are. Whenever we It is true that June is the month of brides, but it n show our customers diamonds, watches, or other jewelry' leads by only a small amount over other months, contrary to we are in the position of a leader. A leader is a guide , a helper, popular belief. To prove this, just ask your friends in what and the principal actor on the stage of salesmanship. months they were married. Did you get married in June? In selling, a leader is not a pressure salesperson, Neither did the bride pictured here. not a bossy person, but rather a person who has the ability to place customers in the proper frame of mind to decide for themselves. So we see that leading a sale is important, but more important is closing that sale, and most important is having our customer completely satisfied after the sale is made and ready to tell others about us. A friend of mine, who was an executive of one of the major toy manufacturing companies, confirmed this " after the sale" belief. He said that , after all the advertising and promotion of a new toy is completed and Billy buys one of these new toys, the most important thing is how many friends he shows it to and how many of them also buy the toy. You see , Billy is a leader , too, and our customers are leaders of future sales for us when they tell others who eventually buy our merchandise. We must lead the sale, but this doesn't mean doing all of the talking. In fact, many times we must be careful not to talk too much or we might be typed as "fast talkers" which rightfully carries a negative connotation. Sometimes just a simple question, such as , "Which one of these do you like the best?" or "Do you prefer white gold or yellow gold?" is sufficient to open the exchange. Then we should stop talking and really listed to the customer, giving him a chance to really express himself. If our customer objects to something we have said or shown, he will have a chance to relay this to us. It has been said that salesmanship can be expressed in two words: overcoming objections. Of course, we must determine which are true objections. I remember looking for a new car (I should say . .. a new used car), and I had a special request. My car at that time Of course, regardless of wedding dates , some gifts had a speedometer that changed colors as the speed increased, are purchased before that date, and the engagement ring may and I thought it was a neat feature. I asked the salesman about be purchased several months (or years) ahead of time. it. It is most imporatnt for us to ask our customer when Since he did not have a car with this feature, he had the wedding date is so we know the time in which we must to determine how important this feature was to me. In other complete the sale. If they are gerting married tomorrow, then words, he had to decide whether this request was a real ob­ we mL·st sell from our stock, but if we have e eraJ wee ks jection or just something I would like , but would not insist we can order or even make up something special. Knowi ng thi upon. It turned out to be just something I fancied, since date is also important so that we can size the ring and se t the this feature just wasn't made anymore. He was a good sales­ diamonds before the deadline. man and led the sale. . Which reminds me! I must finish this bride's wedding Leading sales is important all months of the year; nng, so ... however, one would think it would be a lot easier to make diamond sales in June, as we all know this is the month of Buy now, brides. At least we have heard this .. . Wes

28 Horological Times/June 1981 Tools of the trade. You know the quality of your tools. only you, the watch specialist, can mend us as replacements. Our That's why you depend on them. offer our quality products to the batteries work for them. They can Think of Maxell watch batteries with battery replacement customer. be your tools as well. Contact the same complete trust. Count on Maxell batteries being Maxell for the details. Inside each Maxell battery is a easily available from your local uniquely effective seal that pro- watch material distributors. After ••••••••••••••••••••• tects your customers' watches. And all, what good is a tool if you can't ••••••••••••••••••••• your repvtotion. There's even more put your hands on it. Rely on MaxeH ••••••••••••••••••••• protection for you. We sell watch for quality. Many of the world's batteries only to the watch trade. leading quality watch manufactur- They're labeled and packaged ers Include Maxell batteries as orig- maxsll. . exclusively as watch batteries. So inal equipment. And they recom- BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION Maxell Corporation of America, Battery Products Division, 60 Oxford Drive. Moonachie. N.J. 07074 Tel: (201) 440-8020 AWl News / Milton C. Stevens

It's June!- Time to get DOWN TO BUSINESS

he Trustees of A WI's Education, 25 has been set aside for the Research noon: Watchmakers of Switzerland T Library, and Museum Trust (ELM and Education Council meeting and Information Center (WOSIC) will pre­ Trust) will meet Thursday, June 25 in-service training. The REC is comprised sent film on "Delirium" by Jacques to conduct business and consider student of the various schools which teach watch Reymond with Q and A session. loan applications. One important item and clock repair. Instructors from these Afternoon, 1 to 4 : The Seiko Watch for consideration will be a plan whereby schools traditionally attend this annual Co. will be represented by Jack A WI members will be able to sell their program to up-date their skills and Schecter and Scott Chou. A film, used watch batteries at the current silver curriculums. "In Quest of Perfection," will be price and still have a percentage of the George Schlehr, Chairman of the presented, followed by a slide pro­ sale revert back to the student loan fund REC, has outlined a very ambitious gram. of the Trust. This can be done by having agenda this year. The schedule appears the salvage firm pay its salesman's com­ in his column this month, but just to June 27 and 28 are the dates mission on shipments identified with make certain that no one overlooks this of the Annual Board of Directors meeting. A WI directly to the ELM Trust. Thus important information, it will be included This year's meeting will be held at the individuals and Affiliate Chapters can here as well: Americana Hotel located at the Greater " have their cake and eat it too!" Cincinnati International Airport, Cin­ The President of A WI is re­ MONDAY, JUNE 22: Bulova Quartz cinnati, Ohio. quired to name committee members Certification Program presented by The two-day meeting involves within thirty days after the Annual Henry Frystak and Leo Helmprecht. the hearing of all committee reports Board of Directors meeting. If any mem­ This is an all-day program offered and includes action on any of the recom­ ber has a specific committee on which he without charge to REC instructors. mendations which any committee might would like to work, please convey this TUESDAY, JUNE 23 : Morning, 9 to make. The administrators of the Institute information prior to July 10 to the noon: Archie Perkins, instructor and present a detailed report on the activities President at A WI Central, 3 700 Harrison author of technical articles for the at A WI Central during the past fiscal Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Horological Times. Demonstration of year, along with recommendations for Just prior to the Board of wheel and pinion cutting. Afternoon, the coming year. The treasurer's report, Directors meeting, the Affiliate Chapter 1 to 4: Bill Smith, Jr., instructor along with the audit by the Certified Delegates will meet on Friday, June 26. and author of technical articles for Public Accountant, are discussed in detail; Delegates and alternates representing the the Horological Times, gives a three­ a budget for the current fiscal year is various Affiliate Chapters share ex­ part lecture on: 1) The Escapement: adopted. periences and report on their activities 2) The Oscillatory System; 3) Hair­ during the past year. They select their spring Manipulation. There will also All old business is handled by officers, and their Chairman automatically be a slide presentation on clock making. the current Board prior to the opening becomes an A WI Director and serves on WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24: Morning, 9 to of new business. The newly elected the A WI Board for one year. One of the noon: Erich Lorenz, Manager, Con­ Directors are installed; they then select most important functions of the Affiliate sumer Service Division, Rolex Watch, the Executive Officers for the coming Chapter meeting is that it brings grass­ USA, Inc. Technical introduction year. Once the new officers are seated, roots imput to the A WI Board. At each with slides; 16mm sound film "Of the meeting proceeds to consider new meeting, the delegates prepare recommen­ Time and Men," followed by coffee/ business before the Board. When all dations to be considered by the A WI cake break, courtesy of Rolex; Q and matters have been resolved, the Honor Board of Directors. In almost every A session. Afternoon, 1 to 4: Business Awards Committee recognizes the retiring instance, these recommendations have meeting, rap session. Election of officers and directors, along with any been implemented. officers. others they deem worthy of recognition. The week of June 22 through THURSDAY, JUNE 25: Morning, 9 to ucm

30 Horo/ogical Times/June 1981 QUARTZ WATCH MODULE TESTER

"TEST ALL THE ELECTRICAL PARTS of a QUARTZ WATCH"

Analog And Digital

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TESTS FOR: • Excess Current- LED, LCD, and ANALOG • Faulty Quartz Crystals • Poor Battery Contact • Broken Switch Contacts • Integrated Circuit Problems • Night Light Lamps • Analog Motor Continuity • LCD Open Segments • LCD Displays • Measure LCD Drive Voltage • UP Converter Voltage • Motor Impulses

The Zantech Module Tester, Model 800, is not only an ammeter, it is a complete troubleshooting system designed especially for fast, accurate, quartz watch (LCD, LED, and ANALOG) trouble­ shooting. It is the most accurate and reliable electronic test system available. Model 800 is being used with great success by many Quartz Watch Companies and Service Centers throughout the world. When the Model 800 is used with its many accessories, no quartz watch will escape complete evaluation. NEW FEATURES make Analog Quartz Testing Easy Features: Automatic current range change (0 to 20 ua and 0 to 200 ma) with audio indicator- 1.55 volt 3.10 volt and 0 to 10 volt power supplies- Switch command probe- 100 meg ohm voltage probe- Voltage scales 0 to 2 and 0 to 10- Quartz Substitute probe-32KHz and 786KHz- Analog current pulse integrator- Analog voltage pulse integrator- Internal calibration check- Over cur­ rent shutdown -Variable 34Hz LCD display test voltage. ZANTECH TECHNICIANS can give you expert instruction and technical advice by telephone! Full one year service warranty, instruction book, mini hooks, BNC cable and switch cable included. Price $850.00 ACCESSORIES UNIVERSAL MODULE PRO"BE ...... Model840 $195.00 BATTERY TESTER ...... • ...... Model810 65.00 ALARM TESTER ...... Model 930 65.00 •AT ZANTECH, OUR BUSINESS IS BASED ON EXPERIENCE. QUALITY AND SERVICE.• For further information regarding Model 800 - equipment, parts, training course, or placing order, write or call Zantech. Inc. 77 SHADY LANE • TRENTON, NEW JERSEY 08619 • 609 586-5088

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June 1981 /Horological Times 31 ,ifflARSHALL-~WARTCHILD CONTINUES THE VALUE PARADE!

BEAT AMPLIFIER Completely portable battery-powered beat am­ plifier for both clocks and watches. Ultra-sensitive and light weight. Helpful for setting up new clocks as well as for getting old ones in beat. Complete with earphone which cuts off speaker when it is plugged in, with battery and improved anti­ MS-201 PRECISION WORK CENTER feedback pick-up. AMERICAN-MADE 0 Send Beat Amplifier@ $24.95. COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED FREE CELLS WHEN YOU BUY NOW! Over-all height: 39" - Over-all width : 39" Over-all depth : 19%" IBUFF STICKS I Height to working surface: 38%" ~ Emery Buff Sticks remove -- rust and filings, polish small Working surface: 19% x 38" ~..... Trim : %" - Leg-room : 32" - Walnut finish parts. Fine-grade emery paper carefully (Prices and specifications subject to change) mounted on seasoned wood. Corners REGULARLY $415.00 -SPECIAL $260.00 are sharp. Paper will not ravel. 0 Send MS 201 Precision Work Center 505052-Asstmt. of 12 flat-round­ triangular shapes and grits. Reg. $4.00/asstmt. SALE $2.95/asstmt. VIGOR® 0 Send_Emery Buff Stick Asstmts. CL-1755 CLEAN N' BRITE rM. ~ ULTRASONIC CLEANER ~ PENDULUM RODS 18" TWO-PIECE For cleaning: Jewelry 54591 -.50/each Contact Lenses 1 /4 doz. - $1 .1 0 Dentures 1 doz. - $1.50 U L-Approved 0 Send rods 6-Month Factory Warranty 0 Send CL-1755 Clean n' Brite@ $59.95

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32 Horological Times/June 1981 JUNGHANS=VALUES FROM .fflARSHALL-$WARTCHILD 2exceptional quartz movements, use same hands and hardware! Uffode1756 c./11odel757 Standard Movement Model 756 and Mini-Movement 757 have the same power and torque, and are identical except for differences in size and depth of the case ... battery life and size . . . and the length of handshafts. Both are accurate to plus or minus 60 seconds a year. The 756 will function for up to 4 years on a single alkaline "C" cell battery; the 757 will function for up to 2 years on one "AA" alkaline cell. The 756 handshaft will accom­ modate up to 1!2" dial thickness, the STANDARD MOVEMENT MINI-MOVEMENT 757 up to%". 4 YEAR BATTERY LIFE, 21 mm 2 YEAR BATTERY LIFE, 16.5 mm HANDSHAFT FOR DIALS TO Y, " THICK HANDSHAFT FOR DIALS TO%" THICK

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June 1981 /Horological Times 33 TecWATCHES

By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

o repair the cylinder escapement, special punches and T stumps are needed. Figure 1, View A shows the type of punch used to remove the cylinder from the hub of the balance wheel. An assortment of sizes of these punches are needed to accommodate all of the different sizes of cylinders. These punches are not always available in the staking tool sets and THE must be made. To make a set of cylinder removing punches, it is recommended that they be made as sub-punches. First, select CYLINDER some high carbon steel drill rod in a size that fits the hole in the largest hole end punch of the staking tool set. Cut this ESCAPEMENT* material into lengths of 5/8 inch. These pieces are chucked up in the lathe individually and made into punches of dif­ Part II ferent sizes. Chuck the rod up in the lathe; then face the end off flat with the graver. Spot a center with a sharp pointed graver. Then select the proper sized drill and drill a hole to a depth of about 3mm. Now turn down the diameter of the rod to the proper size for about Smm back from its end, leaving a conical shoulder as in Figure 1, View A. After the punches an: made, they must be hardened and tempered to a straw color. Figure 1 , View B shows the style of punch used to stake the cylinder into the brass hub of the balance wheel. This punch is also used to stake cylinder plugs into the cylinder. View C, Figure 1, shows the style of Figure 1

A 8 c

@

34 Horological Times/June 1981 * © 1981 Technically WATCHES

A

8

c

Figure 2 punch used to remove cylinder plugs from each end of the---­ will just clear the cylinder. This hole is centered up with the cylinder. Some years ago, the last two styles of cylinder die set punch and the die plate is locked up at this position. punches were found in the different staking tools, but more Now select a cylinder-removing punch that is slightly smaller recently, they are not included in staking tools. A set of these than the ouside diameter of the cylinder. This punch must punches should be available from your local watch material have a hole in it large enough to clear the pivot portion of the distributor. They are made by Bergeon and are No. 30542. cylinder plug, as is shown in View A, Figure 3. Now with the There are 8 punches in the set. If punches of the proper sizes brass hub supported on the die plate of the staking tool and are not available, they can be made. the punch in position, the punch is tapped lightly with a brass Figure 2 shows how to make a plug-removing punch .. hammer to drive the cylinder from the brass hub. Care should First, select a piece of high carbon steel drill rod that is 4.7mm be used so the punch won't go into the hole of the brass hub in diameter, or number 13 drill rod size. Cut this in lengths far enough for the conical shoulder of the punch to enlarge of about 3-1/4 inches. Take a piece of this rod and place it the hole in the brass hub . Note : If the cylinder wall is not in the lathe, or it can be fastened in the bench vise. Now use worn and the cylinder is not bent or broken, it will not need a half-round flle to ftl.e the rod as in View A, Figure 2. Use to be removed from the brass hub , since the cylinder plugs a flat ftl.e to remove the material at the end of the rod as in can be replaced while the cylinder is still in the hub of the View A. The two sides of the end of the punch are then filed . wheel. After the cylinder has been removed , a new one is as in View B, Figure 2. This forms a square pin on the end of selected that is the same outside diameter and length as the the punch. Then the square is filed round as in View C, Figure old one. The outside diameter is first measured with the 2. Now file the sides of the punch to finish its shape as in View micrometer. Then the new cylinder is selected and checked for D, Figure 2. length by first laying it on the bench along side the old cylin­ After the punch is completed, it is hardened and der. Now check the fit of the pivots in the jewel holes. If tempered to straw color. Figure 3 shows how a cylinder they are too large for the jewel holes , they will need to be is removed and replaced in the brass hub of the balance wheel. reduced. When chucking a cylinder to work on the pivots, it View A shows the cylinder being removed. To remove a cylin­ must be chucked at the end of the cylinder nearest the pivot der, a hole is selected in the die plate of the staking tool that being worked on. See Figure 7, View B. If the pivots are too

June 1981 /Horological Times 35 Time for the Best in Time ...

I BATIERY OPERATED I. K I E N Z L E I QUARTZ ACCURATE CLOCK MOVEMENTS For Wall, Mantle and Desk Clocks

KIENZLE CHRONOQUARTZ Accurate se lf-start ing movement operates on a single ··c-· battery. 4,194 ,300 vibra­ tions per second. Has metal sweep hand . backhand setting, removable metal hanger. Furnished with all fittings, including rub­ Figure 3 ber washer, metal washer. brass centerfix small for the jewel holes, then a new cylinder can be selected nut or hex nut and brass minute hand nut. Has standard Ameri­ with larger pivots. can shaft available in 112" . 5/s". J/4' and 7fa'' lengths. Available also as 24 hour movement; as day/date movement with 511s" day/ After the pivots have been made to fit the jewel date di sk; also with bell on top, one strike on the hour. no holes, the cylinder is then tried in the watch to check the sweep. 3/4" shaft. Size of muvements: 23/s" x 25/s" x 11's". Ask for mini-quartz 2" x 2 1 /8" and high torque movements. length. If the cylinder is too long, it can be shortened by chucking it in the lathe and shortening the pivots with an Arkansas stone and finishing with a jasper stone. When the Complete Fit-Up Movements cylinder has been fitted with the proper end shake and side Ready-to-insert round movements. 23fs'' movement diameter and 151s" (7i.l ~ shake, it is then staked into the brass hub of the wheel. This is deep, complete with brass bezel. shown being done in Figure 3, View B. To stake a cylinder brass dial. hands and glass crystal. into the brass hub, a staking tool stump is selected that has a Available in 3", 33fs'' and 4" dial diame­ hole that will just clear the tube on the brass hub. This stump ters. Movements supports the balance wheel when the cylinder is inserted into only. 2~/s" diam­ (Continued on page 53) eter. 151s" deep, available with 7/,s" and s•s" shafts.

KIENZLE Sleeve Wrench PENDULUM 14 Prong MOVEMENTS No. T422 With or without bell; no sweep; 3/4'' or 7;s" Value $14.35 shaft. Size: 43/,s" X 27fa'' X 1 w· . Pendulums available in 8". 9". 10". 12", 14". 16". 18" and 21 " lengths measured from shaft of movement to pendulum tip. Pendulum bob is 23/4" diameter (8" pendulum bob is Now Only 211s") . Mini-pendulum available adjustable from 2W' to 3112' ' with 3/4" bob All fittings furnished . $8.76 Half hour and full hour strike move­ ments (Variostrike) with volume control of sound to silence. Available with or with­ out pendulum, chains and weights. Movements furnished with all fittings.

No. BR23 Value $10.20 ALARM CLOCK MOVEMENTS Sizes: 2Vs" x 2Va'' x 3!4" and 2%" x 29!1s" x 1". Now Only $6.33 Kienzle also stocks barometers, hygrometers. ther­ mometers and a wide selection of dials, clock hands and SEND FOR LIST OF MANY numerals. See our complete line of mini, mini-mini and repeater alarm clocks. Immediate delivery on all items. ADDITIONAL BARGAINS AVAILABLE Include $1 .00 extra for postage For technical information and catalogs, call or write Dept. T KIENZLE TIME CORP .• INC. G & G's Miracle House 100 Honing Road, Fox Lake, I L 60020 DEPT. WC Phone: (312) 587-1001 P.O. Box 23234 • 5621 West Hemlock KIENZLE-Associated with Time Since 7822 Milwaukee, WI 53223 (4 14) 353-1900

36 Horological Times/June 1981 BEYER, Edward C., Jr.- Illinois MARTIN, Norman J.-Missouri BLIZZARD, Tom C.-Florida MATS I KAS, Peter K .-Connecticut BRADSHAW, Guy C.-Florida MECHURA, John-New Jersey BRYAN, John A.-Georgia METZ, John-Kentucky CADDELL, James P.-lndiana MORGAN, Hope-Texas CARTY, Ivan E., Jr.-New York MORGAN, Lewis J.-Missouri CARVEY, John-Connecticut NATHE, Michaei.W.-IIIinois CHIAPPETTA, Joseph T.-Fiorida OLICHNEY, Michael J.-Virginia CONNOR, James P.-Pennsylvania ONO , K .-Tokyo, Japan DELORENZI, David P.-Pennsylvania PAIGE, John C.-Pennsylvania DINGESS, Tom-Ohio PARK, Bong S.-Wisconsin DONOHOE, Thomas W.-Washington, D.C. PHILLIPS, Paul-Ontario, Canada DOUD, Donald A.-Washington PLANK, Robert C.-Iowa DOWNEY, Patrick L .-Colorado POLLARD, James V.-Fiorida EPKES, Fred-Iowa PURVES, Robert P.-lndiana EVERMON, William-Illinois REILLEY, W. A.-New York FAICHNEY, D.A.-Ontario, Canada RELIFORD, Pat-Illinois FARRELL, Dan A.-California ROBERTS, Hurley E.-Georgia FIELD, Joseph B.-Illinois RODRIGUEZ, Manuel E.-Florida FINE, Lisa M.-Texas RUBIN , Jack-New Jersey We Salute These FRANCK, Alexandre J .:._Fiorida SANCHEZ, David-New York GARRICK, James J.-New York SCHOMAKER, Thomas D .-Ohio GARRISON, Gary-Oklahoma SEELEY, R. R.-Texas New Members! GRANDSTAFF, Robert E. -Ohio SHAFFER, Mark C.-Pennsylvania GREEN, James R.-West Virginia SHAW, David S,-lllinois HALBERT, Gerald E.-Arizona SKAER, Russell W.-lllinois HAMMER, David C. - California STEVENS, Wilferd A.-California HAMPARSUMOGLU, Minas-California STEVIG, Paul J.-Utah HARLEY, Jacob T.-Fiorida STROUP, Jonathan-Florida HEFNER, Mel-Alabama TABOR , David M .-Virginia HEMPT, John F.-California TAING, K eo-0 ntario, Canada HOLLAND, Tom-Florida TERWILLIGER, Robert-Florida HOWARD , William J.-Texas T ICH ENO R, Bernard E.-Kentucky JACKSON, Mrs. Mari lyn-Arizona THOMAS, W . H.-Illinois JAWORSKI, Michael J. -low a THOMPSON, Robert G .-Maryland JONES, Earl W ., Jr.-Maryland TUCKER, Eugene-Virginia ABSTON, Loretta-Florida JOCZ, Edward I.-California TURNER, Lloyd A.-Washington AMAN, William B.-California JONES, George-Pennsylv ania UHLIG , Paul E.-Pennsylvania ANDREWS, Carla-Florida JORGENSEN, James I.-Illinois WALKER, William B .-California BANDY, William H.-West Virginia KARSTENS, R . V.-Oregon WALLACE, Larry E.-Indiana BAUMBACH, Richard A.-Arizona KISTLER, John M .-Pennsylvania WEISS, S. A .-New Mexico BEAUDOIN, Bob-Oregon LAMER, Ron-Ontario, Canada WORMELLE, F. W., Jr.-Massachusetts BECKMAN, T . R.-Texas LEONARD, V. A.-Texas ZIMMERMAN, Alan E.-Indiana BERARD, Brian A.-New York LOWE, David B.-Illinois ZIMMERMAN, Karen Lee-Indiana

The Aqua Torch The L&R Aqua Torch is particularly well suited where a high degree of cleanliness and flame control are required. The Aqua Torch is ideal for soldering, brazing, welding, annealing, flame polishing, and thermal plastic material fabrication. The Aqua Torch uses distilled water as its basic fuel. The gas that is produced instantly is not stored in any form. There is no pressurized storage in the Aqua Torch resulting in a safe system. The L&R Aqua Torch comes in a variety of models, each model with various torch tips. If your goal is a high-temperature, clean flame, the L&R Aqua Torch is the tool you should be using. It's new from the people who have a long history of supplying quality products to make your work easier. Model shown SUPER A YOUNG- NEAL COMPANY, Inc. Watch Material, Tools and Jewelers Supplies 807-19 J .C . Bradford Bldg., 170 Fourth Avenue, North, Nashville, Tennessee 37219. W.A.T.S. - TN- 800-342-8296, AL, AR, KY, MS, MO, GA, NC, VA- 800-251-8580 Local - ( 615) 254-0669

June 1981 /ffuro/ogical Times 37 Affiliate Chapter Column// Robert F. Bishop

Affiliate Chapter Glossary

une is upon us again, and for many Yes, I mean staf f. Too many times, the J of our chapters, it is a time to close newsletter is a one-person operation. down for the summer months. New of­ The editor must be writer, composer, fi cers have been elected in many cases, bench tip specialist, graphic designer, and they should begin planning the new printer, advertising salesman, stamp Iicker, chapter year. Our next word in our typist, and whatever else comes up that Affiliate Chapter Glossary may apply needs doing. This is not good. The editor to some of these chapters. must have a staff that will carry out its LETHARGY: n. The quality or state of duties faithfully. You must respond being lazy. to requests for contributions, whether they be bench tips, news items, articles, Last October, we discussed "ap­ or help. athy," which in some ways is similar to Robert F. Bishop lethargy. However, apathy denotes in­ are expensive, but can usually be ob­ Newsletters are expensive. Pos­ difference, while lethargy may include tained free if accompanied by a meal. tage and printing are high and many chap­ the best of intentions. In many chapters, Civic rooms are sometimes made available ters pay for all or part of their costs by those "best of intentions"become bogged by banks or other commercial institu­ accepting ads or asking for sponsorship down in the quagmire of lethargy. This is tions in many areas. The YMCA and from businesses servicing our profession. particularly true during the summer YWCA are also potential sources of a Others own their own duplicating equip­ months, when there seems to be plenty low-cost meeting place. If your chapter ment. If you have sufficient circulation, of time to plan for the fall. The tempta­ covers a large area, you may wish to you may qualify for reduced postage tion is strong to put things off until rotate your meeting location in different available to non-profit organizations. It later. (I know this from experience­ sections of your territory in fairness to is very important, however, that you do writing this column, for example.) your members. One big advantage of the not allow quality to suffer at the expense Early planning and early action are goals guild system within a state organization of economy. The newsletter without for which we should all strive. If accom­ is the ability for small groups to hold content becomes the content of the plished, your chapter will grow both in frequent meetings. Fellowship and sharing waste basket. size and productivity. within these small groups are usually PUBLIC SERVICE: n. a service rendered MEETING: n. An act or process of strong. in the public interest. coming together. NEWSLETTER : n. A newspaper con­ Watchmakers deal with the pub­ All chapters hold meetings of taining news or infor­ lic, either directly or indirectly. The image mation of interest to a one form or another. Some hold regular that the public perceives of our profession monthly meetings; others meet only special group. is important, and the intelligent chap­ once or twice a year. The ideal fre­ The newsletter is one of the ter serves the public interest as well as quency depends on a number of factors. most important services a chapter can its members. It can do this in several Monthly meetings are no problem for a offer to its members. It is the most com­ ways. The A WI Pos-I-dent watch and guild located in a large city, because plete and inexpensive way to communicate jewelry marking program can be a great distances are short. The guild that covers with the entire membership. It can help to law enforcement in returning a large area may have members that may instill a feeling of "family" among stolen valuables to their rightful owners. have to travel a hundred miles or more members. It can be a platform where The wise chapter will police its own to a meeting. This may suggest that issues vital to the members can be ex­ ranks and inspire adherence to a code of fewer meetings be held. An all-day meeting posed. It can be an inspiration to en­ high business ethics. It can support with a quality program would make the courage greater participation by the licensing laws or register its own mem­ travel worthwhile. member in chapter activities. bers, as the Pennsylvania chapter has The meeting place can be a It can be all of these things­ done. We depend on the public for our problem, also. Hotel meetings rooms and more-with the right editorial staff. livelihood; don't let them down. ~

38 Horological Times/June 1981 .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

INDIANA PENNSYLVANIA Door prizes were donated by the On April 5 and 6, 1981 the Watchmakers The Allegheny Guild held its regular Association of Indiana held a two-day Ray Gaber Company. A set of screw­ monthly meeting on April 14, 1981 drivers went to Gile Fedder of St. Marys, seminar at the Indianapolis Sheraton in the Ray Gaber Building in Pittsburgh. Airport Hotel in Indianapolis. and a cell tester went to Jack Docman of The program for the evening Altoona. The seminar got off to a good was presented by fellow member Andrew start with the words of Sean Monk, A WI Officers elected were George H. Doedyns of the Digital Repair Service Jones, president; William A. Jaggard, vice­ instructor and author of the "Essence of Co. in New Brighton. Clock Repair" series which appears in the president; and Stanley R. Well, secretary­ Horological Times. After a coffee break, On March 22, members of the treasurer. an A WI film, "Sales Talk," was presented. Allegheny Guild, along with their spouses, After the meeting, everyone Following lunch, those attending enjoyed a festive buffet dinner at the enj~yed a slide presentation, "Casing were instructed in "Production Repairs" Horn of Plenty Restaurant. It was a ' Made Easy," by Bob Bishop. by Horological Times Editor, Hal Herman. pleasant evening and offered everyone a chance to get better acquainted. Featured Monday was a bench ONTARIO course by WOSIC's Jacques Reymond. The March meeting of the Delaware Valley Guild was very well The Annual Meeting of the Ontario The bench course was presented in the Watchmakers Association was held Sun­ morning and again in the afternoon. attended. Two new members were in attendance: Samuel Sherman and Peter day, April 26, 1981 at the Loews West­ Wilkin. They received a warm welcome bury Hotel in Toronto, Ontario. when they were introduced to the guild. The morning began with registra­ OHIO tion at 9:30. This was followed by a The Annual Convention is nearly upon Prior to the regular meeting, business meeting at which past-president us. This year, many enlightening slide the officers and Board of Directors met Barthau reported on the continuing programs are on the agenda, so leave the to discuss plans for future guild meetings. certification of the trade, as well as the tools at home. If enough members are It is hoped that future guild meetings apprenticeship program. interested, there will be a "swap shop" will be as interesting as those in the past. After lunch, members attended of old tools and other various items. New ideas are always welcome. a technical seminar on Marine Chronom­ The convention will be held at the The formation of Keystone eters. The speaker was Mr. Marvin Whitney Marriott Inn in Columbus, Ohio. Guild took place on Sunday, March 15, who is one of the world's foremost The Central Ohio Watchmakers 1981 in State College, Pennsylvania. authorities on marine chronometers. Guild (COWG) reports that the regular The advice and assistance of Ralph The President's Reception was monthly meetings have been very well Henning, Bob Bishop, Bub Murtland, held courtesy of Ebauches, S.A. The attended and they have been having and Paul Fehrenback was greatly ap­ day's activities ended with the Annual some very interesting programs. preciated. Also appreciated was the President's Banquet. The wine was The OWA Credit Union is still attendance of area watchmakers who served courtesy of H. & W. Perrin Co., functioning and looking for new mem­ demonstrated their support and interest Ltd. and Toronto Jewellers Supply Co., bers. by coming out to this meeting. Ltd. (Continued on page 43)

PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT Learn Jewelry Technology/Watch Repairing WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN Gemology for the Jeweler/Jewelry Store Operation SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. • State Supported HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY • Low Tuition Rates COURSES OFFERED: •Journeymen Instructors Watch Repair, Jewelry Repair, THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE • Non-Profit Institution Srone Setring, Gemology for FOLLOWING INFORMATION: • No Out-Of-State Tuition Charge the Jeweler. As Certificate Courses • Quarterly Enrollment Dates A-MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. • Financial Aid Available to Eligible Students Horology or J ewelery Technology can lead to an Associate Degree from Paris B-ALL NUMBERS FROM aACK OF CASE. • State and Federal Approved for Handicapped Junior College and/or to a Bachelors • Singl e or Married Student Housing Available C-CO LOR 0 F CASE. Degree at several participating Universities. • Courses Approved for Veteran's Training KILB & COMPANY Write for More Information 219 NORTH MILWAUKEE ST. PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE P.O. DRAWER 8-A Division of Horology, Jewelry, Technology, and Gemology MILWAUKEE, WI 53201 Paris, Texas 75460

June 1981 /Horological Times 39 AWl Bench Courses/1981 ELGIN DIALS

-- ~ ~ 12 I' Programs Instructors • 2 ~i A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jeager J B Citizen LCD Alarm Carpenter C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton C (b) ESA/ETA Quartz Analog Broughton D (a) Seiko 4300 Ladies' Quartz Analog Smith D (b) Seiko LCD Chronograph/Alarm Smith D (c) Seiko 0903A Men's Quartz Analog Smith 1 Dozen Assorted 8/0, 15/0, and E lntro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson 13/0 original Elgin factory dials. F (a) Bulova Quartz Analog (SMQ) Opp 039038 ...... $1.95 Dozen F (b) ESA LCD Chronograph Opp G ESA Digital/Analog Biederman H Clock Restoration Benesh

JUNE

7 E Rochester, NY Nelson CYLINDER STAFFS 14 D South Bend, IN Smith 14 A Clark, NJ Jaeger 3 DOZEN OF THE HARD TO FIND BRACE­ LET SIZE. JULY 029021 ...... $4.50- 3 dozen 19 E Roanoke, VA Nelson 19 A Chicago, I L Jaeger 21 A Toronto, Canada Jaeger DUST-OFF 26 A Syracuse, NY Jaeger 31 A Portland, ME Jaeger THE MODERN SOLUTION AUGUST 3 A Hartford, CT Jaeger TO 4 A New York, NY Jaeger 11 A Pittsburgh, PA Jaeger TROUBLESOME DUST 29,30 H Indianapolis, IN Benesh

No matter how hard it is to reach, DUST-OFF SEPTEMBER dusts it off -- lint, carbon specks, tape powder, you name it. Pull back on the 20 A Cincinnati, 0 H Jaeger trigger and watch the dust disappear. A gust of clean, dry DuPont FREON gas does the trick. Never a problem with residue, moisture I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSC: 10 BE or oily fingerprints. 300 powerful gusts of air. Dust-off. PRESENTED Cl N ------AT F L20-5001 - Dust-off ...... $18.75 F L20-5002 - Refill ...... $ 3. 75 ------PLEASC:

SEND ME MORE INFORMAl ION ff/j\~ S. (f1RoSe~tinc. NAME · ------Worldwide Distributo1'S to Horologists '~,I~~ ADDRESS 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N. C. 27420, U. S. A. CITY. STATE. ZIP ------

40 Horologica/ Times/June 1981 "Eveready" Miniature Battery Report

(_ . ~--) [EV~ WATCH

NOBODY PUTS MORE BEHIND A WATCH BATTERY THAN "EVEREADY" NO. 392 At "Eveready'; what we put behind our watch batteries 1S'IOLTS is just as important as what we put in them. That's why m:Jl!Dlll. with the watch batteries we sell, we offer displays to put WATCH BATTERIES them in. A battery tester to measure their condition. And • replacement catalogs to specify their uses. Plus, we have the largest and we think the most knowledgeable sales force in the industry, supported by twelve sales offices to seNice your daily needs. And we have nine warehouses strategically located around the country for fast shipment.

At "Eveready'; what we sell we seNice ... and then some. And that's what separates "Eveready" from all other battery manufacturers. That's what makes "Eveready" is a "Eveready" the leader in miniature batteries. registered trademark of Union Carbide Corp Follow the leader.. ~'Eveready." Scholastically Speaking/George Schlehr

Birds of a Feather

'Tis the beginning of summer and all through the land, Instructors are happy because they have planned To attend the June meeting of REC, In Cincinnati, "Home of WKRP. "

We'lllisten to Bulova, Seiko and Rolex, WOSIC and others with techniques quite complex. We'll pick our peers' brains in the hours that remain, Between dinner, TV, and the lights out refrain.

Many old friends we'll find now are gray From looking for years for that P F and A. We'll have a fine meeting, sure as you're born, With a program quite useful, no more of this corn.

Research and Education Council 1 to 4 : Bill Smith, Jr., instructor 1981 Annual Seminar, and author of technical articles for Workshop, and Meeting the Horological Times, gives a three­ June 22 through June 25, 1981 part lecture on: 1) The Escapement; Americana Hotel, 2) The Oscillatory System; 3) Hair­ Greater Cincinnati Airport spring Manipulation. There will also be a slide presentation on clockmaking. In planning this year's work­ WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24: Morning, 9 to shop and seminar, all participants were noon: Erich Lorenz, Manager, Con­ asked to present a more technical pro­ sumer Service Division, Rolex Watch, gram than has been the custom in the USA, Inc. Technical introduction past. It was felt that this would be more with slides; 16mm sound film "Of useful to REC instructors in terms of Time and Men," followed by coffee/ practical information which could be cake break, courtesy of Rolex; Q and incorporated into the curriculum, as A session. Afternoon, 1 to 4: Business opposed to the usual promotional type meeting, rap session. Election of of presentation. George Schlehr officers. THURSDAY, JUNE 25: Morning, 9 to Specifically, we have asked watch MONDAY, JUNE 22: Bulova Quartz noon: Watchmakers of Switzerland manufacturers and others to emphasize Certification Program presented by Information Center (WOSIC) will pre­ three phases: Henry Frystak and Leo Helmprecht. sent film on "Delirium" by Jacques 1. Engineering design for new products. This is an ali-day program offered Reymond with Q and A session. 2. Quality control in manufacture. without charge to REC instructors. Afternoon, 1 to 4: The Seiko Watch 3. Human inspection in final assembly. TUESDAY, JUNE 23: Morning, 9 to Co. will be represented by Jack We anticipate that the following noon: Archie Perkins, instructor and Schecter and Scott Chou. A film, schedule will keep everyone productively author of technical articles for the "In Quest of Perfection," will be busy and provide topics of interest to Horological Times. Demonstration of presented, followed by a slide pro- all: wheel and pinion cutting. Afternoon, gram. ~&rAtinuszt'!cunn@

42 Horological Times/June 1981 Jersey was Mr. Charles Terwilliger. Mr. ASSOCIATION NEWS Terwilliger, of Horolovar, is an author, (Continued from page 39) lecturer, and a recognized authority on the 400-day clock. He presented an EVEREADYTRADE MAliK illustrated talk on "The History of the NEW YORK 400-day Clock in the United States." At the April meeting of the Horological ******* ******* Society of New York, Don DeWolfe Well known as author of "The ALL AMERICAN presented a short history of the quartz Horolovar 400-day Clock Repair Guide," watch. Mr. DeWolfe also showed members a standard reference work which has run •30-PAK• some of the latest instruments which can through eight editions since it appeared diagnose quartz watch problems for the in 1953, Charles Terwilliger had no idea SUPER SAVINGS watchmaker. These timing machines can of becoming a specialist in the field back Til July 4, '81 be used for mechanical watches as well as in 194 7 when he set out to resolve dif­ electronic and quartz watches. ficulties in regulating the timekeeping MOST POPULAR PRICE EACH of these clocks. After he traced his 803 $ .95 303 1.20 IOWA trouble to the suspension spring, he began searching for a more serviceable type, and 323 .60 The 1981 Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers 343 .60 Convention and Trade Show is scheduled inquiry in the scientific world led him to 357 1.20 for September 12 and 13, 1981 , at the discover that what was needed was a 301 .95 Best Western Airport Inn, 1810 Army temperature compensating alloy. From 389 .80 Post Road, Des Moines, Iowa. this came the birth of the Horolovar 393 .80 Due to cancellations, new ex­ suspension spring in 19 50. 386 .90 392 .55 hibitors this year are Dana-Camtra, Ltd. Thirty years later, Horolovar has of Des Moines; J. P. Lifestyles of Min­ achieved worldwide recognition and, in We carry a complete line neapolis; and Pulsar Watch Company. 1980, sold over 15 0,000 springs. Charles of Eveready batteries There will be a Saturday night Terwilliger predicts the so-called anniver­ banquet and dance. A larger dance floor sary clock will be around for a long time CALL TOLL FREE of 27 x 30 ft. is being arranged for because he estimates that there are at 10 A.M .-5 P.M. Mon.-Fri. N.Y. time Nationwide: 1-800-431-2828 everyone's dancing pleasure. least 10 million in existence. By following N.Y. S'tate: 1-800-942-1944 his book's step-by-step guide and using Horolovar materials and equipment, he IIA'r'r·TI~QNit~ t~ttl~l•. NEW JERSEY claims a clock repairman can turn these The guest speaker at the April meeting clocks into a very profitable line of Specia li zin g in Watch/Calculator Batte ri es P.O. Box 10 • Orangeburg, N.Y. 10962 of the Watchmakers Association of New business. UCIB

New "A" Seal Waterproof Crowns Are Superior To All Other Type Crowns ...

NO.2" A" t:AL VVA 1 r::nr-nuur l..MVVVI'II.::J --~~~~~~ NEW IMPROVED EXPANDING GASKETS•EACH CROWN WILL FIT 6 CASE NECKS FROM 2.0 TO 2.5 mm•O.D. 4.0 TO 5.6mm •YELLOW G.F. & S.S.• SIZES FOR EVERY POPULAR SWISS & AMERICAN WATCH nom~ - COLOR 'DiAM'fWt~'·TAf POST 1_0c)Tn£ _'·c o·L~-- ~"'ffiR!TAP---;;osr- ~ ~~~ I ~g~~ -l ~f ~~lE~:~ f -:! ··- ~1· - ·-f~~ ~~ ~~D~~M 3 Y G F 40MM FLUSH 55 SOMM FLUSH 4 Y G F 40MM ' MEDIUM "' 55 SOMM ' I MEDIUM 5 ss 40MM 10' FLUSH I "17 Y G F 56MM 10' FLUSH ss ~ OMM 10 MEDIUM ; G F SGMM 10 MEDIUM '7 s s 40MM Fu. .:S..,. ,." YGF 56MM FLUSI-1 ss 40\'M ' VEC:;U'V ; G F S6MM ' MEDIL\1 '9 Y G F 50M.._1 10' ~LUSH "' ss 56M.\r1 10' FLvSI-< 10 V::Jf 50\41'1 10 \rlE:"Il;\r' 'IZl 55 56M\~ 10 VEDIUM 11 YGF SOWM 8 f ~ L 5., 2l ss 56\1V fLUS ... , V GF ~C '~-8 f>J:o ... ,. ss 56VV ' ti:EO:u~• o(.QCPOWNS " -REFit.I.S' AVAU.. ASL.f

1. New patented construction and gasket each" A" seal crown will fit six 4. The "A" seal is a Swiss made crown of first quality and used by size case necks, 2.0mm, 2.1mm, 2.2mm, 2.3mm, 2.4mm, and 2 .5mm. watch factories all over the world. 2. Reduce your inventory 80% 5. The "A" seal crown has the new mcdern cut of fewer knurls for 3. A complete range of "0" ring crowns requires 144 sizes, whereas a better gripping and outsells all other crowns. complete range of "A" seal crowns requires only 48 sizes.

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Jun e 1981 /Horological Times 43 to George Manning. that he was better known by early 19th THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER It appears that Manning's primary century American game fishermen than (Continued from page 18) contribution to the maritime service he was by horologists, for he designed was providing charts, nautical almanacs, and produced the famous Meek's fishing was given a letter by the Naval Obser­ logs, tidal datums, plotting sheets, and reel. Although he is known for his fishing vatory identifying him as having the instruments. Most of the correspondence reels, this gifted, trained watchmaker Government's blessing to purchase chro­ between George Manning and the Navy produced a very fine ship's chronometer. nometers which in turn would be delivered dealt with furnishing naval ships with Benjamin received his training to the Observatory for possible purchase. the aforementioned items. In addition to as a watchmaker in 1835 from his older Most of the instruments delivered to the these serv'ices, Mr. Manning apparently brother Jonathan who had a watch/ Observatory by Mr. Low were purchased acted as an agent for the Navy in selling jewelry store in Frankfort. However, for the Maritime Commission. off surveyed instruments, for in a letter before he completed his training, he After the passing of Max, the dated January 7, 1853, Superintendent became interested in making fishing firm was moved to II 0 Hudson Street, Maury directed Eggert to deliver those reels. Judge Mason Brown, a rabid fisher­ and, although the two sons still operate chronometers to be surveyed to Mr. man, asked Benjamin to make him a the firm of M. Low at that address, they Manning. reel, "as perfect as a watch." Benjamin are primarily dealing in real estate. Apparently Mr. Manning was a envisioned this mechanism to involve MANNING, GEORGE, 90 Wall very astute businessman and the Navy the use of a gear arrangement. Facilities Street, New York City. Mr. Manning had high regard for the manner in which to cut such gears were not available in received and kept chronometers for the he operated his business. Correspondence Frankfort, so he had to go elsewhere. Navy, but there is no evidence that he between the Naval Observatory, the The judge was very pleased repaired and/or rated chronometers. various Bureau Chiefs, and Congress with Meek's reel and soon the word During March 1851, Eggert was directed as to wh¥ Manning was favored with the spread about this young man's ingenious by the Observatory to pick up from majority of requisitions, indicated that device. Consequently, he was soon Manning, chronometers belonging to the his dependability was unmatched and swamped with orders-so much so that he Navy and repair them. When Arthur that he maintained quality control. abandoned his watchmaking training and Stewart informed the Observatory in Hence, it was to the best interest of the turned his attention to producing fishing 1852 that he wished to give up the Government to deal with Mr. Manning. reels. Navy's New York agency for the care MEEKS, BENJAMIN F., Frank­ In 1839, he and his brother of Navy chronometers, as he desired to fort, Kentucky. Benjamin was a me­ Jonathan entered into a partnership retire he was directed to turn over all chanical genius whose talents were which was dissolved in 1852. While he Gove;nment chronometers in his keeping virtually unlimited. There is no question (Continued on page 4 7)

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44 Horological Times/June 1981 PICKLE BARREL (Continued from page 21) If You're Interested pushed, and the lock is rotated to hold it. See Figure 1, View I. Hinge joints and safety catches In CLOCKMAKING come in two types, one for hard soldering and the other for soft soldering. The ones for soft soldering have a cup-like base You MUST Have that is hard soldered to the catch. This gives more surface for the soft solder, which is necessary to make a solid, strong This Book! bond. Soft solder does not have the holding strength of hard solder, nor does it require such a large amount of heat. Thus, there is no danger of melting the Questions & Answers hard solder when soft soldering the hinge joint or safety catch to the pin. To convert the soft-solder type Of and For the of hinge joint or safety catch into one for hard soldering, the cup base can be Clockmaking Profession removed simply by heating red hot and, when the hard solder starts to melt, removing it. It can also be sawed off with the jewelers' saw using a fine blade .. -· --·---·. - (6/0 or finer). Usually the type to be hard soldered is only available in karat gold, - -¢' .. so to use one of lesser-quality metal, ~.. it is necessary to remove the base. In installing hinge joints or ·l safety catches, alignment is always a problem whether using hard or soft solder. The "third hand" tool can be used to advantage until sufficient skill and a steady hand are developed, allowing one ·. to use a pick or tweezers to hold the item while soldering. The techniques for hard and soft soldering have been . explained in previous articles. Another common problem faced by the jewelry repairman is fitting rings to fingers with large knuckles. Some people have naturally large knuckles, while others have what are called arthritic knuckles-large knuckles which have developed due to arthritis. The problem Dedicated to the Advancement of Horology is that any ring other than a plain band which is large enough to go over the This book is the most significant work on clock repair t o be published in this century I The knuckle has a tendency to turn on the authors, Joseph G. Bai er, PhD, CMW; James L. Tigner, CMC; and Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, finger. There are several patented expan­ CMC, are recognized as being among the leading contemporary horologists in the field. sion shanks and other devices on the They follow the same format as was used in AWl's popular "Questions and Answers of and for the Watchmaking Profession," which was published in 1970. The original Q & A market made to take care of this prob­ book has been widely used by students and schools of horology. It is about to go into its lem ; however, most are fragile and do third printing. The n ew "Clock Q & A" book will be a companion to the earlier text. not last very long before ceasing to The book contains 224 large, 8'h x 11 in . pages function properly. They are also quite and includes many original drawings and photographs. expensive, as they have to be made of The economical but durable soft cover helps keep the Now $1Q95 precious metal to match the rings on volume in a price range easily affordable by students Only Postpaid which they are installed. There is a way and beginners as well as professionals. to overcome this problem with a durable type of installation which many jewelery Mail This Coupon TODAY! repairmen use. This device can be made To: American Watchmakers Institute and installed for a fraction of the cost of the patented device. A spring can be P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 made from white or yellow gold to go inside of the ring shank and extend about Enclosed is $10.95. Please Rush "Clock Q & A Book" two-thirds of the way around the shank. This is hard soldered to one side. Figure Name ______2, point a shows the spring, and Figure 2, point b, shows the hard solder joint. Address ------Make the ring about one size larger than City, State & Zip Code ______(Continued on page 56)

June 1981/Horo/ogica/ Times 45 TIH~ CK By Fred S. Bu rckhardt

Venting My Frustrations In Two Vignettes

ave you ever noticed how it-LOUSY CRYSTAL CEMENT, I almost threw up! When he sat H some things start to bug made by the Lousy Crystal Cement down to work, I knew for sure he you after a while? I have one pet Co., Joe Lousy, President. I had would put on a pair of rubber peeve-CRYSTAL CEMENT. I have a rather embarrassing experience surgical gloves, but I was mistaken­ yet to use a tube all the way to with this particular tube. Some­ he wore white linen gloves. the end. Through the years, I guess how it got punctured, so I wrapped It took me back to the I've thrown away at least 50 some tissue around it to keep it days when I first started in this gallons. from leaking. The next time I used line of work. My bench wasn't Maybe it's just me, but it, some of the tissue stuck to my white, but it was just as neat. how come the first or second time hand. Did you ever wait on a cus­ As well as I can remember, the you use a tube, the wire stopper tomer with tissue stuck on your neatness lasted close to twenty pulls loose from the cap? After hand? minutes. It got to the point that subsequent use, the old glue builds How about the tube that if l flipped a part, there wasn't up on the wire until there is as gets plugged up? You squeeze a any sense looking for it as it would much on the wire as there is in the little and nothing comes out, so take days to find. tube. you squeeze a little harder. Still Finally, the situation got Once I had a streak of nothing. A little harder still . . . so bad, I installed a jewelers bench luck and was able to use up almost sorry, nothing yet. By this time pin so I would have a clean place half a tube, before, one day, with­ the old Yuletide Spirit is about to work. I kept having to make it out my knowing it, the tube split gone. One last squeeze and it finally longer and longer until I was and the cement dripped onto my comes out-from every place around working about three feet from the lap. l didn' t realize what had the tube except the needle! bench. happened until an hour later I have to admit there was One day, I decided to when a customer came in, and I one time when I had no trouble. clean it off. The reason was that a got up to wait on him. My pants The only reason was the tube was customer came in to pick up his legs were stuck together, and I empty. Brand new and not a drop grandfather clock and I couldn't of cement in the thing! had to waddle over to the repair find it anywhere. Lucky for me, counter. When the customer saw Some seek fame and for­ it started to chime, and I was me walking that way, he said, tune. The only thing I ask for able to trace the sound to some­ " Look, if you have to go to the before I go to that big repair shop where around the bench. It took bathroom, I don't mind waiting in the sky is just ONE tube of three days to uncover it, but at a minute!" crystal cement that will endure to least I had another happy customer. the last drop. Why is it that watch­ Did you ever have a tube makers are like pack-rats? I've leak in your drawer? lt happened While I'm in this frame of never seen a watchmaker yet who to me once. I reached in to get a mind, there's something else I'd like didn't have a little box or some­ pair of hairspring tweezers and to get off my chest here and now. thing filled with old balance staffs, came up with the tweezers, three Isn't it disgusting how some people crowns, broken wheels, and even screwdrivers, a poising tool, and keep their benches so clean and old broken crystals. I even used two buttons of pith wood. The tube neat? I visited a fellow a while to let old cells lay on the bench, is still stuck to the bottom of the back who had just opened a shop, till one day, one exploded. That drawer. and when I walked into the place, sonofagun ricocheted for three Granted, not everyone has I thought I would be snow blinded. minutes before it finally hit me a problem with crystal cement. I Everything was pure white, even behind the ear. I went out like a heard about a fellow over in Syria his tweezers and screwdrivers. I light. The boss almost fired me who used a tube all the way to the thought to myself, "Operating for sleeping on the job. last drop. He's listed in the Guinness rooms aren't even this clean." I would like to make a Book of World Records. This guy even had the walls and proposal: All watchmakers show There was a time when ceiling waxed. how patriotic they are by cleaning I decided to switch brands to see After my eyes got accus­ off their benches and sending the if that would change my luck. tomed to the brightness, I looked scrap to the Navy Department. It did-from bad to worse! It was at the top of his bench. It was like Surely they would have enough the lousiest crystal cement I ever the old saying, "A place for every­ metal to build at least one battle­ used. In fact, that was the name of thing and everything in its place." ship! 'ill=m

46 Horologica/ Times/June 1981 what is found in several pieces of Naval THESHI~SCHRONOMETER correspondence. (Continued from page 44) On October 7, 1863, Superin­ tendent Gilliss stated in a letter to the and his brother were in business together, Bureau of Equipment that it would be he produced his chronometer. in the best interest of the Navy to inspect After several unsuccessful busi­ t~e s~x American chronometer-making ness ventures in the watch/jewelry firms m order to ascertain not only what business, he returned to the reel-making facilities were possessed by Messrs. Bond business with his two sons. The business and Son at , James Monroe and remained in force until 1898 when it Son at New Bedford, and Bliss, Eggert, was sold to the Horton Manufacturer Gray, and Negus, all of New York, but Company, Bristol, Connecticut. also to what extent they were willing to Benjamin's chronometer has a use those facilities to construct all the detent escapement, helical hairspring chronometers needed by the Navy. fitted to a bimetallic balance and a Shortly thereafter Gilliss was going barrel. The top plate is skel~tonized. directed to make such a~ inspection. The late Jesse Coleman, one of In his October 23rd report to the Bureau America's foremost horologists, had the he stated that he visited all of the abov~ pleasure of examining this beautifully firms and that a series of questions was addressed to each. He added, "So far constructed instrument. He told me in Figure 2. Movement view of Meek's 1972 that Benjamin was one of those as I could ascertain, excepting the chiefs Chronometer. Courtesy of Orville R. Hagans. rare individuals whose mechanical in­ of the firms, there are no more than that genuity and ability were indescribable. number of thorough chronometer makers in each of the cities of New York and roe's chronometers, numbers 262, 264, JAMES MONROE & SON New and 275. Monroe had previously sold Bedford, Massachusetts. Here agai~, we Boston. Mr. Monroe and Son are the only two in New Bedford." two chronometers, numbers 251 and 266 have two makers of which little is known to the Navy in October 1862, for which concerning their contributions to the As a result of Gilliss's trip, he was paid $225 each. Monroe was chronometer-making market, other than the Navy purchased three more of Mon- directed by Gilliss to deliver the three instruments to Negus and Company, who was the agent for the care, rating and issuing of Government chronometer~ in New York. (Continued on page 57)

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June 1981 /Horological Times 4 7 ©1981

Orville R. Hagans, CMC, CMW, FAWI, FBHI

THE FUSEE

his old horological term comes watch has been repaired and it fails to T down to us from the French take good motion, a stronger mainspring fus~e, derived from the Latin [usus , seems to be the one and only sure remedy a spindle. The term was applied to a when, in reality, the spring already in graduated cone, around which a driving the watch is stronger than it need be if cord was wound to maintain an equal the watch otherwise were in condition. driving power from the weight or main­ This is only one of many illustra­ spring in a clock or watch. It has been tions that could be presented as evidence claimed by antiquarian historians that that every ambitious young watchmaker Jocob Zech of Prague was the inventor, should not be content to merely acquire circa 1599, but this cannot be correct, an apprenticeship education unless it be as a German clock of 15 20 has one. The under the direction of an extraordinarily fact is that research so far has not revealed capable workman. Schooling acquired the name of the inventor. from schools, textbooks, trade journals, When the clock or watch is etc., is generally the road to success, wound up, the force of the weight fall and bear in mind that good watchmaking or spring is the greatest, and the driving cannot be acquired in a few months. cord or chain of the fusee acts from its It takes year of experience. smallest end, exerting the lowest leverage In returning to our subject on the train of the timepiece. As the (the train), I am not attempting to driving weight of the clock falls or the convey the idea that a correctly designed spring of the watch unwinds, the drive and fitted train will be a "cure-all" from the thicker part of the fusee acts for all watch troubles. However, it does with the same measure of force on the play a very important part. It will trans­ was catgut and the clock was dated ca. train so that the power on the escape­ mit the motive power to the escapement 1780. The fusee fell into disuse in clocks, ment is thus rendered more constant. with a minimum amount of lost power, but survived longer in watchmaking and Catgut was the driving cord used on the and if allowed to run freely, it will attain has come down to our time in the marine its maximum speed almost instantly with older fusees, as it was for the driving chronometer. Fusee clocks are rare weights. In 1664, a Swiss watchmaker a smooth, even, whirring sound (free collectors' pieces, and the fusee watch by the name of Gruet, used a chain for from rattle). If, on the other hand, it is in demand by those who treasure should be noisy and sluggish in attaining this purpose, but we are not certain that horological antiques. he was the first to do so. These fusee speed, this is evidence that something chains were very finely made in the days is wrong. The diameters of the wheels of long ago; they were indeed works of and pinions may be incorrect; there may very fine mechanical skill, and we have be thick leaf pinions, wheel addenda often admired their minute perfection. THE IMPORTANCE OF A which are too sho!"t, or bad depths. The fusee was rather rare in tower clocks, WELL-FITTING "TRAIN" To make matters worse, the wheels could though some examples have been re­ The subject we are about to discuss is be too thick and heavy, particularly corded; cast iron was used in one case one that, in the opinion of the writer, the fourth and escape wheels, which for the conical barrel, and hardwood in is usually not given the consideration it would give excess inertia, a very bad others. deserves. From experience accumulated fault and generally overlooked. Excess Very few "grandfather" clocks over a period of many years, I have ob­ inertia is much the same as attempting of the fusee type have survived, though served that the average workman sel­ to get up quick speed in an automobile many were made in 18th-century Ireland dom suspects anything wrong with the with the brakes applied. As it is the where clockmaking was a great local "train" unless it absolutely "hangs up" speed of the escape tooth passing over cottage industry. About forty years ago, and fails to function. If it will run down the face of the pallet that determines we saw one made by Creighton of Bally­ with reasonable freedom, although it may the amount of energy (or impulse) mena in which the fusee barrel was a have a rumbling, noisy sound, it is gen­ given, it is obvious that if the train were solid brass casting graduated from a erally accepted as being O.K. , and troubles lighter, the motive power could overcome conical shape by hand cutting. The drive are looked for elsewhere. Then, after the (Continued on page 56)

48 Horological Times/June 1981 CONSTANTLY UPDATED .AND EXPANDED.

All Ebauches SA mechanical and quartz calibres, and their componentsr are described and illustrated actual size in the Ebauches SA Catalogue. It enables you to identify any part and order it without risk of error. Published in French, German and English, the Ebauches SA Catalogue is constantly reviewed and updated. It is an indispensable work tool-a way. to keep up with the latest developments. Order your copy with the coupon below. A dictionary in 8 languages. The watchmaker's dictionary contains r-"!!!!!!l~-.... more than 2500 horological t~rms in eight languages: French, German, English, Russian, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese and Japanese. Every watch specialist should have this illustrated reference work Order your copy now. WM JDA Lool~s Into the Eighties Editors Note: Our available editorial space in the May issue did not permit complete coverage of this year's annual meeting of the WATCH MATERIAL AND JEWELRY DISTRIBUTORS ASSOCIATION (WMJDA) held in March at Rancho La Costa in Carlsbad, California. We are happy to present additional coverage this month.

Gregory S . Staszko of Main, Hurdman and Crans­ ton, Cincinnati, OH, above, presented an in-depth Newly elected WMJDA president Karl Esslinger, Esslinger & Co., St. Paul, orientation in the use of computers by parts distrib­ MN, received an engraved gavel from immediate past president, John R. utors. He was assited by T.A. Foster, not shown. Cassedy, Cas-Ker Co., Cincinnati, OH.

Curtis M ick, formerly with L&R Manufacturing Co., Kearney, NJ, is shown with his wife Eva. Mick received an Honorary Life Member­ ship Award and gave a tribute to the upcoming generation of leaders of the Association in his remarks summarizing a life in the watch ma­ terials industry.

MAN OF THE YEAR honors were bestowed upon William J . Kilb, Kilb & Company, Milwaukee, WI by the WMJDA. He is shown above ex­ pressing his appreciation to the audience at the special honorary luncheon.

Gladys Endman, President of Marshall Swartchild Co. Chicago, I L, discussed the state of the Industry w ith Harold Perlman, President of the American Perfit Crystal Corp., New York, NY, during the Associates' Tables display.

50 Horological Times/June 1981 \ I In Memoriam At the WMJDA meetings, moments ® of silence were observed by the gathered members of the watch material industry in memory of:

Edward L. Endman, Owner of Marshall-Swartchild, Chicago, IL A panel of WMJDA members discussed "Computers As We Know Them" as part of the business program. Participants shared their experiences in the acquisition Ted Lampert, M. J. Lampert Co., and operation of a wide range of computer systems and services for their distributor­ New York, NY ships. Left to Right, above : Ken Weil , The Gould Company, Dallas, TX; Roger Borel, Jules Borel & Co., Kansas City, MO; Norma Nest, The Nest Company, St. Bernard Nest, President of The Louis, MO. Left to Right, below: Frances Horowitz, L&R Manufacturing Co ., Nest Company, St. Louis, MO Kearney, NJ; Robert Moengen, Jewelmont Corp., Minneapolis, MN; Arthur Bush, United Tool & Material Co., Denver, CO. Jerome Shiffman, President of Rocket Jewelry Box, Bronx, NY

Otto Stern, President of Stem, Inc., Columbus, OH

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June 1 981/Horological Times 51 Bench Tips 1 Joe Crooks

Is There A Safecracker In The House?

This month we have a clock tip from with a hack saw! one up for me.) Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, 10624 Incidentally, Dr. Baier is 2nd Mr. Frystak, in his gracious way, N. 24th Place, Phoenix, Arizona 85028. vice-president of A WI and has authored, stated: along with James L. Tigner and Marvin E. "Joe, that does sound like a Did you ever have a boudoir clock move­ Whitney, A WI's new Questions and safe way to tighten the 218 center wheel ment a prisoner in its own case? I have on Answers of and for the Clockmaking pinion. However, never bend the arms several occasions. Profession. The book has taken more of the center wheel to tighten the pinion In these jeweled escapement than five years of preparation. Order one until you first try the much quicker and time and alarm clocks, the winding key now before the first issue runs out! easier way-turning the wheel over on for some clocks is screwed onto its arbor. the pinion. About 98% of the time, If the click spring breaks, there is no way it's tight as new. Rarely will the arms to unwind that key; the mainspring need to be sprung in unless the wheel has just turns off the arbor hook, and there TIME TO EAT A LITTLE MORE CROW been turned over before. you are. There is no way to remove the "Also, a loose pinion on the case. With last month's bench tip on tightening 218 is usually caused by improper lu b­ However, I have found one the pinion on the center wheel of the rication or by a customer who has not solution to this problem, and there may 218 Accutron (May issue of Horological been taught the proper way to advance be others. Tap the clock gently with a Times), I thought I finally had a tip for the day of the month by turning the soft wood or plastic mallet, rotating the Mr. Henry Frystak, my Bulova technical crown clockwise with the stem pushed clock slowly in the hands, and after each consultant, instructor, and ''friend." in." tap, try turning the key in the unwinding Remember when I promised not O.K., Mr. Frystak, I know that. direction. I have yet to find a boudoir to publish another Accutron tip until Rub out my chalk mark, pass the crow, clock in which the click will not even­ it was cleared with Henry? Well, against and could I have a little ketchup on it tually catch onto the ratchet wheel. my better judgment, I broke that promise this time, please? and am in hot water once again. Thanks, Joe, for a nice tip. I would have I saw Henry at the North Carolina become so flustered with this problem, Watchmakers Convention and couldn't Don't forget to send your bench tips to: since it's never happened to me, that wait to tell him about the Accutron tip Jingle Joe, 265 N. Main St., Mooresville, I would probably have sawed off the key I had used without his knowledge. (Chalk North Carolina 28115.

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52 Horologi.cal Times/June 1981 TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 36) the hub. The punch used to insert the cylinder does not have a pivot on its end, but is flat and somewhat pointed so it will enter the opening in the cylinder as is shown in View B, Figure 3. Before the cylinder is staked into the brass hub, it must be started into the hole in the correct position in relation to the banking pin in the rim of the wheel. To position the cylinder, grasp the cylinder with a pair of tweezers across the impulse lips as in Figure 4, View B. The jaw of the tweezer that is on the cylinder lips should be at right angles to the banking pin. When inserting the punch into the cylinder, the die plate of the staking tool is left free so it can be turned enough to let the punch enter the opening of the cylinder. After the I punch is in the proper position, the die plate is then locked \ "' tight. Usually the cylinder can be pressed into the brass hub I { without the use of a hammer. The cylinder is pressed in until the punch goes against the bottom of the hub. Figure 5 shows how the plug punch is used to remove Figure 5 a cylinder plug. To remove a cylinder plug, select a tapered would be a danger of burning the delicate pivots in the har­ mouth staking tool stump of suitable size to support the dening process. When fitting a cylinder plug to a cylinder that corner of the end of the cylinder as shown in View A of Figure is already staked into the wheel, it would be best for the pivot 5. The hole in the stump must be large enough to clear the to be already turned and finished. Figure 6, View A shows a pivot section of the cylinder plug. The taper mouth in the cylinder plug being made in the lathe. To make a cylinder stump allows the plug to be driven out a slight amount. Then plug, the following procedure is used. Take a piece of blue select the proper size plug punch. The pivot on the punch steel pivot wire and chuck it true in the lathe. Use a sharp should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the plug being graver to turn the diameter "a" of the plug until it will enter removed. To position the punch, the die plate of the staking the cylinder and go to a depth of about 2/3 of the way to its tool is left free until the punch is positioned; then the die correct seated position. It will be noted that there is a slight plate is locked up. It usually takes very light taps of the taper to the plug. This is needed because the hole in the ends hammer on the end of the punch to start the plug moving of the cylinder is slightly tapered. Therefore, to have a good out. After the plug has been shifted out slightly, a hole in the die plate is used to finish removing the plug. The size of the hole selected should be large enough to just clear the cylinder plug. This is shown in View B, Figure 5. Note: Sometimes a cylinder plug fits into the cylinder very tightly and is stubborn to remove. If this is the case, the cylinder can be rolled on a FOR WATCH MATERIALS hard, smooth surface with a polished steel burnisher as shown TOOLS in Figure 4, View A. This stretches the cylinder wall which loosens the plug so it can easily be removed. When replacing FINDINGS cylinder plugs, they usually have to be made specially for the particular job. An assortment of cylinder plugs can usually be CASTING SUPPLIES obtained from watch material distributors, but the proper size plug cannot always be found in an assortment; therefore, it is necessary to custom-make the plug. Cylinder plugs are made from blue steel because CALL US! if they were made from soft steel and then hardened, there Nationwide Toll Free Number 1-800-231-0143 Texas Toll Free Number 1-800-392-6910

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June 1981 /Horological Times 53 Figure6 Figure 7 friction fit, the tapers on the plug and the taper in the cylinder and are inserted into the cylinder before the cylinder is staked should be about the same. Mark off the length of the body into the balance wheel. Then the pivots are turned and finished. of the plug and turn the oil groove "b." Then turn the pivot Figure 7, View A shows the plug being made. View B shows "c," and cut the plug off at the dotted lines at the end of the how the cylinder is chucked up for finishing the pivots. When pivot. Then the plug can be chucked with the pivot extending chucking the cylinder, it should be chucked close to the pivot outside the chuck to finish the pivot. Make sure the pivot being worked on, especially on the lower end where the pas­ runs true before starting to finish it. After the plug is com­ sage for the escape wheel is made . This part of the cylinder is pleted, it is pressed into the cylinder. Figure 6, View B shows very weak and delicate, making it easily broken. the plug being pressed into the cylinder. To press the plug After a cylinder or a cylinder plug is replaced, the into the cylinder, first select a hole in the die plate of the balance wheel must be checked for truth and poise . When staking tool that will just clear the pivot portion of the plug. truing a cylinder balance wheel, the wheel must be removed Now use the same style punch that was used to press the from the caliper to make the necessary bends. The cylinder cylinder into the brass hub, to press the plug into the cylinder. is so fragile where the escape wheel passage is cut that it could Sometimes the cylinder plugs are made without the pivots bend or break at this point if held in the caliper while being

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54 Horological Times/June 1981 A

I II

Figure 8 Figure 9 trued. It is very important not to close the caliper jaws too bushing wire very closely. Chuck the piano wire up in the tightly on the cylinder as this could bend or break the cylinder. lathe. Then turn and finish a conical shoulder pivot on the end The wheel should be held in the fingers while being straightened. of the piano wire. Make the pivot .lOmm in diameter. Now on When poising the balance wheel, weight is taken from the the other end of the piano wire, solder a small watch crown. underside of the rim of the wheel on the heavy side with The watch crown is used to hold onto while the piano wire a pivot drill. is moved back and forth in the bushing wire. If the piano wire When replacing cylinders or cylinder plugs, it is is slightly loose in the hole in the bushing wire, it can be very important to have the notch in the cylinder at the proper curved slightly which will tighten it in the hole. To use this height for the escape wheel. The escape wheel teeth should depth gauge, the pivot is placed in the lower jewel hole and the be positioned in the middle of the discharging lip of the bushing wire is moved to the height of the escape wheel which cylinder and the rim of the escape wheel should be centered will determine where the notch in the cylinder must be . in the notch of the cylinder as shown in View A of Figure 8. This gauge can also be used to measure from the balance If the lower end of the cylinder is too short or the lower cock to the escape wheel cock. When a measurement is taken plug too short, the cylinder notch will rub the rim of the with the gauge, the measurement can be compared on the escape wheel as shown in Figure 9, View "a." If the lower cylinder or can be measured with a depth micrometer. end of the cylinder is too long or the lower plug too long, the lower end of the slot in the cylinder could rub the underside A common problem in cylinder escapements is an of the escape wheel rim. If the lower end of the cylinder is out-of-true escape wheel. When the escape wheel is out of too short, a longer plug must be selected and the upper pivot ture, it could rub on the underside of the escape wheel cock shortened. On the other hand, if the lower end is too long, as in View "b" of Figure 9, or the escape wheel could rub on the lower pivot can be shortened the correct amount, and the cylinder notch as in View "a'' of Figure 9. To true an usually the upper plug can be pressed out enough to correct escape wheel, it is placed on a brass stump as in Figure 8. the end shake or a longer plug can be used to correct the View B , and the spoke of the wheel nearest the high spot end shake. is tapped with a peening punch to lower the teeth on that A very handy depth gauge can be made to measure side. The peening must be done with caution to avoid breaking the height of the escape wheel and escape wheel cock in order the escape wheel spoke or stretching the spoke which would to determine the height of the notches in the cylinder. To make the wheel out of true in the round. The end shakes and make the tool, take a piece of clock bushing wire and chuck side shakes must be kept to a minimum on the cylinder and it in the lathe. Then face the end of the wire flat with a the escape wheel if the best performance is expected from the graver. Now take a piece of piano wire that fits the hole in the cylinder escapement.

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June 1981 /Harulogical Times 55 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS We have contacted the Longines just searched through my library and (Continued from page 22) Watch Company in search for come up with a 1912 Longines parts A parts to your 19. 73N pocket catalog and I am enclosing a photocopy I would like to know if parts are chronograph. We were informed that this of the parts sheet. I hope that at least still available. I also need a technical calibre has long ago been discontinued this may help. sheet for disassembly and reassembly, and that parts for it have not been The Esembl-0-Graph library of as well as any other information per­ available for a very long time. chronograph instruction lists one 1940-ish taining to the repair of it. The material catalogs printed in the wrist chronograph and tells how to 1960 period do not list this calibre at assemble and repair it in detail. Should Ralph Campbell all. Neither does the one I did for the you want that volume, write to A WI Keene, New Hampshire WMJDA in the 1950's. However, I've Central. 'ULll3

IN THE SPOTLIGHT confronted with the same handicap as shank. It can then be tightened and (Continued from page 48) was the manufacturer, and is generally fitted by placing on the ring mandrel helpless. However, the better watchmaker, and tapping with the rawhide mallot. the inertia more quickly and produce having the necessary technical knowledge The end which is hard soldered should a greater escape wheel speed and more and equipment at his command, can be filed to taper smoothly with the inside impulse without increasing the motive usually find a way to improve the con­ of the shank, and then be polished. power. It will thus be seen that proper dition of any "bad actor watch." To Tension on the finger can be adjusted designing and fitting of the train is the by bending the spring to a smaller cir­ only means of acquiring a maximum es­ become one of the better class requires cumference with a pair of chain nose cape wheel speed from a given amount first a love for the work that increases pliers. At the point where the spring is of motive power. With this object in as you progress, the proper schooling soldered to the shank, it will be annealed view as a step nearer to better watch­ under the direction of a capable work­ making, I cannot too strongly emphasize, man, and a complete watchmaking dead soft; however, hammering with the "Don't overlook the train!" outfit; experience will do the rest. 'UCIB rawhide mallot and bending to make The reader may wish to ask, in ajdustments will harden it, and as it is cases where faults exist as outlined PICKLE BARREL worn, continual vibration will continue above, what is the remedy? This would (Continued from page 45) to make it harder and more springy. be difficult to answer without examina­ If it is necessary to install one of these springs on a platinum ring, it tion of the job. In many instances, such required to go over the knuckle. Then is better to make the spring of white as may be seen in many of the very small roll out a piece of metal (matching the gold. Platinum has a tendency to remain wrist watches, faulty design and construc­ metal of which the ring is made) to a soft and not temper with vibration, tion are in evidence on account of in­ thickness of about 1mm, and cut this to so the necessary spring action will not sufficient space for correctly designed the width of the shank. Round it and parts. In such cases, the repairman is be achieved. hard solder one end to the inside of the (To be continued next month)

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56 Horological Times/June 1981 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER (Continued from page 47) At These Prices There is No Need So far as I can ascertain, only seven chronometers were purchased from To Touch a Rusty Monroe. Several were still in use in the 1930's, for number 262 was issued to Detent Screw the U.S.S. Salinas, May 16, 1930;number 266 was sent to the Boston Navy Yard, Again! October 15, 1931; and number 300 was issued to the U.S.S. Dewey, October 19, 1934. U[JJ3 100**** WRISTWATCH MOVEMENTS MANY STILL RUNNING! Package Will Contain at Least: 2 Hamiltons 5 Bulovas 2 Longines 1 Automatic with case Figure 4 . Close-up view of Meek' s Es­ 5 Regular in cases capement. Courtesy of Orville R. Hagans. 85 Other Assorted Swiss and American High Jewel Movements Your Price $119 00 (100Wrist • Watch Package) These are prepackaged and will be shipped postage paid the day your check arrives Figure 3 . Close-up view of (Monday-Friday). Include $4.00 extra if Meek' s Compensation Balance you wish airmail. Please do not ask for and Escapement. Courtesy of substitutions. Orville R . Hagans.

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June 1981 /Horological Times 57 News 1n the Trade

AN OMEGA WATCH ON THE WRIST OF EACH ASTRONAUT IN SPACE SHUTTLE

All the American astronauts par­ In the words of the Chair­ ticipating in the Space Shuttle Professional man of the Board of 0 mega's program were wearing Omega New York subsidiary, former Speedmaster Professional chrono­ astronaut General Thomas P. graphs on their wrists. Omega Stafford (member of the Apollo· is once more in a position to make Soyuz crew), "Today, the Space a tangible contribution to the Shuttle puts America and the exploration of space. Orbiter world on the threshold of a new Columbia is the first in a series capability to investigate the uni­ of flights which should result, verse. Just one of its missions sometime around 1985, in the 60-second lolalm:r Cn:!Nr~ f1tme•lellong) (chronograph second hand) will be to place in orbit a space establishment of space work sta­ telescope that will bring into tions. The United States will 12-hour lolal1zcr view countless celestial features then have four orbiters, Columbia, invisible from earth. Great break­ Challenger, Discovery, and At­ throughs can be expected. And lantic, making trips from their 0 mega is again proud to be part of great space adventures." bases at Cape Canaveral and 0 Vandenberg. A total of 44 mis­ OMEGA sions of a scientific, meteoro­ logical, technical, industrial, or LEVY AND McKENNA medical nature, have been planned NAMED TO POSTS AT for the next six years. MARSHALL-SWARTCHI LD Omega chronographs have Harold B. Levy has been named been familiar to NASA for many general manager of Marshaii­ years. The watch is a standard Swartchild Company, Chicago. production article which is part His responsibilities include the of the astronauts' official equip­ branches in Dallas, Houston, San ment. The Speedmaster Profes­ Francisco, and Seattle, as well sional was chosen in 1963 after as operations at the home office. a series of rigorous tests adminis­ At the same time, Gladys Endman, tered to watches of various Marshaii-Swartchild president, ap­ brands bought in a Houston pointed Lorain McKenna assis­ jewelry store. tant manager of the company. Since 1965, an Omega Both Levy and McKenna are chronograph has accompanied long-time employees of the firm each astronaut with total re­ which distributes watches and liability on some 30 missions watch materials, jewelry, and including the Gemini, Apollo, jewelers' supplies. Skylab, and All/Shuttle pro­ vous, July 17, 1975. However, the rocket engines in order to grams. One was on the wrist of the Speedmaster Professional's return to earth safely from the Neil Armstrong, July 21, 1969, most dramatic performance took far side of the moon. JA ANNOUNCES DATES when he became the first man to place April 12, 1970 during The Speedmaster Profes­ FOR CHICAGO SHOW walk on the moon. One was worn the Apollo 13 mission when the sional chronograph-by the way­ The Jewelers of America's 1981 by the American astronauts and pilots of the damaged module is a mechanical, hand-wound Chicago Jewelry Trade Show & the Russian cosmonauts during depended totally on the accuracy instrument as required by the Conference will take place Sun­ the Apollo-Soyuz space rendez- of the Omega chronograph to fire NASA. day, August 9 through Tuesday,

58 Horological Times/June 1981 August 11, at Expocenter and accounted for by teachers, instruc­ battery paks and "30-Pack Super The guest speaker, who Mart Plaza, it has been announced tors, and company personnel. Savings" specials. transformed a low-profile store into a high-class jewelry business, by JA Chairman Michael D. The pace of technological Batt·Tronic, P.O. Box 10, gave graduates information on the Roman. change is so fast that the present Orangeburg, New York 10962, is importance of attaining knowledge "Jewelers should make a course will run until Summer America's largest exclusive dis­ special note that the Show will and being able to "talk to cus­ 1981, after which time a new tributor of watch and calculator be opening on SUNDAY this tomers with knowedge, with course dealing with the latest batteries: Lithium, Silver Oxide, year," Roman advises. 'This advances will be introduced. integrity." He noted that the Mercury and Manganese Dioxide. gives jewelers in the area a chance most important words in business The company maintains toll-free to remain in their stores on relationships are "I'm sorry I telephone numbers for the trade: Saturday, if they wish, or to made a mistake," "You did a Nationwide (10 a.m. to 5 p.m.): arrive on Saturday and be able good job," "What is your opin· RICHARD P. KALINA 1-800-431-2828. New York State: to start shopping the Show ion?" "If you please," "Thank APPOINTED BY BULOVA 1-800-942-1944. bright and early on Sunday." Richard P. Kalina was recently you," and "We." "Chicago is truly the big promoted to Sales Manager, Na· A certified gemologist, time show with the hometown tiona! Accounts, for the Bulova Simon is a fellow of the Gemologi­ touch," Roman comments. "With Watch Company. Jerry Josephson, cal Association of Great Britain, more than 600 exhibitors ex· vice-president of sales, in com­ pected to participate, it is the menting on the appointment, Gemological Institute of America, largest jewelry trade show outside said, "Rick Kalina brings over Jewelers of America, and various of New York City. It is also in a fifteen years of sales and mar­ Louisiana jewelers' associations, central location, so that it is easy keting experience to his new professional and civic organiza­ to reach either by air, train, bus poisition. He will be responsible tions. He was introduced by or car, and there are ample for national account sales and the Orlando Paddock, director of parking facilities for those jewelers PJC's gemology program. who drive in." Graduating were Paul R. A special format will be Barnes of Warren AFB, Wyoming; developed for the Conference Linzy Bauer of Kingman, Kansas; Program. Jewelers attending will Dave Blakley of Amarillo; M. G. be given the opportunity to listen Brewer of Jonesboro, Arkansas; to experts and participate in John Eric Coleman of Hope, workshop sessions designed to Arkansas; Diane Elizabeth Davis update the jewelers' expertise in of Sacramento, California; Garrett many aspects of jewelry store Dean Gray of Salina, Kansas; management. Terese Gregory of Jacksonville, Florida; Patty Mike Harlow of Amarillo; Ytaka Kakuma of Japan; STRONG DEMAND FOR Tim R. Kokkeler of Garrison, SWISS QUARTZ North Dakota; Robbin Keith WATCH TRAINING McKeel and Wallace 0. McKeel The Ebauches SA Training Centre planning, organization, and im­ Jr. of Ahoskie, North Carolina; at Marin, Switzerland, last year plementation of new programs." Daniel Lee McNutt of North organized a total of 67 tech· Little Rock, Arkansas; William nical courses, lasting an average GEMOLOGY STUDENTS Peter Perin is of St. Petersburg, of three days each. Forty-three GRADUATE FROM PARIS Florida; Larry P. Popovich of "SUPER SAVINGS" of the courses were held at the JUNIOR COLLEGE Metairie, Louisiana; Angela Lewis EVEREADY PROMO Centre which is near Neuchatel Twenty-two students from 10 Seago of Dallas; Stephen John BY BATT-TRONIC in the heart of the Swiss watch· different states and one foreign Sovell of Fairmont, Minnesota; The most popular Eveready watch making industry. The remainder country were graduated in the Sandra Swann of Las Cruces, New and calculator batteries are being were held at a variety of centers eighth class of Paris Junior Mexico; Robert E. Walton of offered at "Super Savings" by around the world, including one College's professional gemology Meridian, Texas; Dean A. Wile of Batt-Tronic Corporation through in Belfast last Autumn. program recently, announced Paul Pomeroy, Iowa; and Paul Young July4, 1981. Retailers were the largest Clayton, chairman of the PJC Ill of Dallas. group attending the courses. Of "We are just doing our division of horology and jewelry Louis B. Williams, Paris all participants, 14.8% were re· small part to help put the brakes technology. Guest speaker for the Junior College President, gave tailers from Switzerland, 62.5% on inflation," says William Hillson, event was Horace Simon, chair­ greetings and presented certificates were retailers from abroad, 12% President of Batt-Tronic Corpora­ man of the board of Simon to the graduates. were importers or distributors, tion. The promotion features "Or­ Jewellers Inc., Shreveport, Louisi­ and the remaining 10.5% was der by the Dozen" Eveready ana.

June 1981 /Horological Times 59 New Products and Literature

JADOW ANNOUNCES IMPROVED ULTRASONIC CLEANER

B. Jadow and Sons Inc. announces the quartz watch service indus­ the availability of a new version try of the modules, parts, and of the Vigor Clean N' Brite instruments that are in use Ultrasonic Cleaner. throughout the world. This small, powerful, and According to Louis A. quiet Mini Ultrasonic cleaner is Zanoni, President of Zantech and greatly improved and offers new one of the foremost authorities features. Its non-abrasive action and teachers of digital watch reaches places brushes can't, and repair, "This easy-to-read catalog its quiet, solid state circuitry contains all of the information is safe and efficient. It is com­ necessary for the digital watch pact and lightweight, measuring repairer." 5%" X 4%" X 5". Zantech, Inc. is located at The unit is excellent for 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, NJ cleaning jewelry, including gold 08619. castings, rings, bracelets, watch bands, fine filigree, and small link chain. It cleans beneath mounted stones and removes oil, grease, wax, lacquer, glue, paint, polishing abrasives, and rouge. in stainless steel and the other In stainless steel, model Sanitizing pierced earrings and in yellow gold tone, have been 91AOO (illustrated) sells at a cleaning small tools are other approved for use by the operating suggested retail price of $150.00. uses. personnel ofthe Atchison, Topeka In yellow gold tone, model A special plastic contact and Santa Fe, the Chessie System 91A14 retails at a suggested lens holder is included with and the Union Pacific railroads. $175.00. the unit, perfectly designed for Equipped with a scratch Bulova Watch Co., Inc. is cleaning all sizes and styles of resistant Dura-Crystal®, a white located at Bulova Park, Flushing, contact lenses. Cleaning dentures enamel dial with black arabic NY 11370. (212) 335-6000. is another application of its numerals, and a sweep second ultrasonic capabilities. hand, both models are water The new Vigor Clean N' resistant in an individually num­ Brite Ultrasonic Cleaner, CL-1755, bered case. "ADVERTISING: comes complete with general pur­ ZAN TECH INTRODUCES A PURE AND SIMPLE" pose cleaning powder; ultrasonic COMPLETE DIGITAL "Advertising: Pure and Simple" silver cleaning powder; denture (acidic) cleaning powder; con­ WATCH REPAIR CATALOG by Hank Seider is a gutsy book tact lens holder; and plastic Zantech Inc. announces the release by an outspoken pro which scoop. It retails for $59.95 and of a complete catalog of quartz presents the real nuts and bolts can be obtained from your local watch instruments, parts, and of advertising: How to create jewelry/lapidary supply house. tools. This 32-page, fully illus­ advertising which sells, rather trated catalog contains a com­ than just costs. Probably few plete line of quartz watch test business subjects are afflicted equipment, as well as 125 full­ with the halo/smoke screen of THREE RAILROADS scale photographs of the most fun/games/wishful thinking which APPROVE BULOVA popular LCD and LED modules. is the curse of advertising. This POCKET WATCHES Zantech, Inc. has published this author knows exactly what to do Two quartz pocket watches, one catalog in order to better inform and how to do it, and tells you so.

60 Horological Times/June 1981 An enjoyable book which can Swest, Inc., 1725 Victory Blvd., SUEDE 'N SILVER linen-textured silver dial, which make you money. With 208 Glendale CA 91201. WATCH DISPLAY is protected by a scratch-resistant pages, 5%" x BY:!', hardbound, FROM RADO Dura-Crystal. Both in yellow gold it sells for $12.95 and is available Suede, silver, and a full-color tone. The men's watch, model from Amacom, 135 W. 50th scene are the background for a 92M 17, retails for a suggested St., New York, NY 10020. floating four-watch counter/ $295.00. The ladies' watch, style window display introduced by 92L03, for $250.00. Rado Watch Company, Inc., 1140 Avenue of the Americas, New NEW G-S WATCH York, NY 10036. CRYSTAL CATALOG An easeled, full-color horse Germanow·Simon Machine Co., scene laminated against a sil­ Inc., a leading producer of cast vered frame provides a back­ optic watch crystals since 1916, A CLASSIC: HAMIL TON'S ground for four Rado watches has just issued a complete new PENNYWEIGHT SCALE that seem to "float" on invisible catalog covering their expanded Some originals can be copied but lucite holders. The display mea­ complete line. The 64-page Catalog never exactly duplicated. This is sures 1OY. x 12Y." and is available No. 200 has a die·cut, thumb­ the case with the long-established to all Rado jewelers. notched index for easy location Hamilton pennyweight scale. of any size, shape, and style of Priced at $11.00, the original crystal. Hamilton scale costs about the Various crystal sets and same as the imported look-alikes, assortments are illustrated, as so the real thing is also the better well as cross·reference charts of value. NEW FROM CITIZEN: popular watches. The simplicity of the THE DIGI-ANA This latest catalog is avail· Hamilton pennyweight scale has TIME TRACK able to watch repair shops on made it a favorite with pro­ Time flies with the speed of request from: Germanow-Simon fessional jewelers, goldsmiths, and light on the Digi-Ana Time Track, Machine Co., Inc., Dept 420, metals dealers for more than newly introduced by Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc. P.O. Box 1091, Rochester, NY 25 years. Its fulcrum action The watch features a unique 14603. eliminates the need for weights and springs. It is easy to set up "time track" that surrounds the anywhere; a leveling screw per­ perimeter of the watch face. mits use on uneven surfaces. The time track is broken up Capacity is 35 dwt. Its weight into 60 segments, each of which lights up as a second passes. At is only 10 oz., and it is very BULOVA TWINS the end of a minute, the lights compact-the base being 4-3/8" Dressed with Polonais mesh brace­ go dark and the process starts x 2-1 /2" and pan height 5-1 /2". lets, a new men's and ladies' again. The dual-mode watch has The genuine Hamilton penny­ Bulova quartz watch has the co­ all the features of a digital-date, weight scale may be specified ordinated total look of jewelry. alarm, hourly chime, timer, and by ordering No. 40-445 from The gadrooned (ornamental stopwatch. your jewelers' supply house. notching) bezel ring surrounds a The watches, available for Fall delivery, will retail for $195.00 (in stainless steel) and $250.00 (gold tone). UDB

SWESTSTONE SCOOP/TWEEZER Now available from Swest, Inc is a unique all-in-ane diamond tweezer with a stone scoop on the opposite end. For those who handle loose stones a great deal, this imaginative tool is a timesaver. For a FREE order form showing price, contact Swest, Inc., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, TX 75220, or

June 1981/Horological Times 61 Classified Ads

Regulations and Rates Situations Wanted

Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Competent clock repair person seeks appren­ Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the ticeship situation with certified watchmaker right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confiden­ in L.A. area. Contact Janice Ritter, 1140 East Third St., Apt. 11, Long Beach, CA tial ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handl ing . The first of the 90802. 213-432-7081. month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance.

Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 . (513) 661-3838 WATCHMAKER, CLOCKMAKER: A recent graduate with an Associate Degree in Applied Science in Horology and one year's experience in a retail repair shop seeks position in the Southwest. For information, contact Roy WATCH REPIVOTING, WHEEL and PINION Burkey, 25% Pierpont St., Petersburg, WV Tradesman CUTTING expertly done by EUROPEAN 26847. WATCHMAKER with diploma from GLAS­ Watchmaker-Fast and excellent work. Cer­ HUTTE $15.00 and up. Specializing in RE­ British trained young American horologist tified Accu tron Technician. Prompt service. PEATERS, CHRONOMETERS, TURBILLONS, specializing in antiquarian horology seeks Send for price list: Richard Mazza, 29 N. KARRUSELS, watches with PERPETUAL employment in this field commencing in the Main, Niles, Ohio 44446. CALENDAR, UNUSUAL ESCAPEMENTS, etc. Fall of 1981. This uniquely talented craftsman I can make any part for any watch; it is just will consider any opportunity that can make a matter of economics. Send SASE for FREE use of his speicalized skills and training. Con­ Pearl and Bead Restringing. AU types. Fast price list. FREE estimate given on your watch. tact: Coleman Fund Committee, c/o Horological service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, PHILIP PONIZ (NAWCC, AWl, MBHI), 1207 Times, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, 1279 Inglis Ave., Columbus, Ohio 43212. Scrub Oak Circle, Boulder CO 80303 . 303- OH 45211. 494-9666. WATCHMAKER, CLOCKMAKER: A recent ANTIQUE POCKET WATCH REPAIR. Fast Superior Tweezer Resharpening. $2.50 each, graduate with an Associate Degree in Applied service, quality work, thorough repairs. Elec­ including return first class postage. Minimum of Science in Horology and one year's experience troplate and polish your watch cases to their three tweezers. Advance payment required. in retail repair shop seeks a new position. original brilliance. NO POCKET WATCH IS Harvey C. Watkins, CMW, P.O. Box 1738, For information contact Roy Burkey, 25% UNREPAIRABLE; it is just a matter of eco­ 1204 West Cason Street, Plant City, FL 33566. Pierpont St., Petersburg, WV 2684 7. nomics. Now accepting new accounts $15.00 and up. Mail Order is my specialty. FREE estimate given on your watch. JOHNSON Clock repair material and tools. Manufacture of STATE CERTIFIED WATCHMAKER/CLOCK­ WATCH REPAIRS (NAWCC, AWl), Box 121, clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, MAKER 17 yrs. experience with a BHI cer­ Keenesburg, CO 80643. (303) 536-9235. weights, all types of brass and steel stock and tificate seeks position in Southwest, with custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00; preference for Arizona. Call (313) 4 34-1180 Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio after 5 p.m. EST. 44201. (216) 94 7-2268. CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING Fast Service-Write for free brochure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, Wanted To Buy TX 75060. WHEELS, Pinions, barrels or whatever, re­ paired or made new. Repivot arbors. Parts IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, made to order. Send sample for free estimate. Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, No watch parts. Ken Leeseberg, Ken-Way Inc., gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J. C. 19 W 672 Army Trail, P.O. Box 219, Addison, offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. Illinois 60101. Ship insured/registered mail to: American 163, Oakdale, CT 06370. Metals Co ., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box CLOCK SERVICES wheels, gears, barrels, 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407. WATCH REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: AC­ retoothing, repivoting, mainspring winding, CUTRON, STEP-MOTOR QUARTZ, DIGITAL bushing, jeweling. Send sample for estimate. STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or ANALOG & MECHANICAL. Th e Watch­ Roy H. Niegel CMC, 21837 Woodbury, Cuper­ used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Repair Shop, 2616 Kendall Ave., Madison, tino, CA 95014. Phone (408) 253-4927. Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, WI53705. 1-608-231-3606. coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. CLOCK REPAIR. Trade work-Cleaning, re­ Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2300 Henderson DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR SPECIALIST, pairing, repivoting, bushing, teeth repairs, Mill Rd., N.E. Suite 318, Atlanta, Georgia LED and LCD. Tuxedo Electric, Tuxedo wooden works. Mark R. Pellmann, Clock and 30345. Phone 404/938-0744. Square, Tuxedo NY 10987. Phone: (914) Watch Repairs, 110 Railroad Ave., Homer 351-5678. City, PA 15748. GOLD FILLED and ROLLED GOLD PLATE FGP $3.50/t.o.; 1/ 10 lOk $16/t.o.; 12k G. F. DIAL REFINISHING, CRYSTAL FITTING $8.75/t.o.; 14K G. F. $14.75/ t.o.; 25 year & WATCH REPAIR. 48-hour services on PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs watch case $17/ Lo. Prices based on $600 Dial Refinishing & Crystal Fitting. Finest on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. gold. Send for schedule. CASH or CHECK. quality. Quantity works welcome. Send your Prompt service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. Ship to AVON METAL SERVICE, LTD. works to: Kirk Dial & Crystal Co., 625-4th Washington Street, Chicago, IL 60602. 312- P.O. Box 17484, Milwaukee, WI 53217. (414) & Pike Bldg., Seattle, WA 98101. 236-8052. 351-0933.

62 Horological Times/June 1981 IMMEDIATE CASH PAID!! Old Mine and Old RETIRING. Busy watch, clock repair and Valtec (Zantech) 1000 Quartz tester, also European cut diamonds. Especially needed: engraving business. One-man store in small Seiko QT-10 step-motor Quartz tester. Both Stones over 1 carat. Ship with phone number town just south of Santa Maria, California. mint condition. $1,000. Southern Time, 835 for highest offer, or call Mr. Neff, (404) 938- Clean air, healthy climate, relaxing life style. Common, New Orleans, LA 70112. 1-504-525- 0744. W. F. N. Enterprises, Inc., HT, 2300 Very reasonable rent with lease. Priced at a 3961. Henderson Mill Rd., NE, Suite 318, Atlanta, low $2,800. Stock, tools and parts extra/ GA 30345. optional. 805-937-1218 mornings only 'til 1 p.m. 149 S. 1st Street, Orcutt, CA 93455. QUARTZ BATTERY CLOCK MOVEMENTS: Regular or Mini ; $7.95 each, 3 for $22.65, 6 for $42.90 .. Hands included. $2.00 handling. For Sale · ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, CALDAK TIME, Box 3181, Camarillo, CA Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is 93010. Watchmaker's shop set-up, bench, Vibrograf made easy by step-by-step procedure. Each B100 timing machine, Watchmaster Ultrasonic small step of removing and replacing each part cleaning machine, Accutron service set, Bulova and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. ring sizing machine, 2 large systems of glass No concentrated study is necessary. $200.00. U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ and plastic crystals, crown assortments, etc. Write EOG, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400-DAY Call (302) 994-7436. 45211. ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­ TRONICS. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, P.O. BOX 172, SANTEE, CA 92071 . American Pocket watches, movements, cases, Jewelry store for sale. North Marin County material and tools for sale. Write for list. Want in sunny California. $95,000 including inven­ to buy watchmakers tools, American pocket tory. Fully equipped for retail sales in rapidly watches, related items. Dashto Horological growing shopping center. Agent, Valley of Miscellaneous Services, 5349 Basilica Circles, Virginia Beach, California (707-763-0966.) VA 23464. Phone: (804)420-2631. Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. Retail and Trade Repair Store in busy shopping offers training and instruments for servicing all 'A' QUALITY SWISS SPRING BA RS . WRITE mall. Great opportunity for watchmaker and/or types of digital watches. Course includes FOR FREE SAMPLES. P.O. Box 774, GREEN­ jeweler. Busy location for 15 years. Includes diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair VILLE, MS 38701. all trade accounts and inventory. Excellent methods, including techniques in wire bond good will and reputation. Contact "It's About repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, NOW AVAILABLE: SWISS 6-3/8 x 8 ANALOG Time," 706 So. Deca tur Blvd., Las Vegas, NV Zantech, Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, NJ QUARTZ MOVEMENTS TO TRADE SHOPS, 89107. Tel: 702-870-4687. 08619. (609) 586-5088. WATCHMAKERS, SERVICE CENTERS. Re­ places all usual 6-3/4 x 8 mechanical movements as FHF 69; H. B. 90; Russian, etc., in customers' own cases using existing dial and hands. Dials and hands available for private label. A perfect The Book You've Been Waiting For fit up movement. Parts and service always THE BEST OF available. Trial order 1 or 2, $19.00 each; 3 to 5 16.95 each; 6 to 10, 16.00 each; all postpaid, check or money order. Write for quantity J.E. COLEMAN: prices. VALE WATCH PRODUCTS, 104 EAST 25th ST., New York, NY 10010. I CLOCKMAKER I Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, For more than 28 years, Jess Coleman helped working horologists solve I Unimats (accessories also), Maximats, Sherline, their day by day technical problems in clock repairing by answering I Machinex, the new Maximat Super Eleven. and analyzing their questions in his column "Clockwise & Otherwise." I Lathe Catalog, $1.00. Precision tools, inch or This feature appeared monthly in the pages of American Horolof(ist I metric, aluminum, brass, steel, all shapes, & Jeweler magazine. I Since the death of Coleman, many clockmakers have I miniature screws, taps, drills, saws, collets. I Tool Catalog, $1.00. Campbell Tools, 2100 felt the void created by the lack of personal attention which I Selma Road, Springfield, Ohio 45505. Phone Coleman always gave to their specific, professional problems. I (513) 322-8562. Now, the present generations ofhorological craftsmen can I enjoy all the benefits of Coleman's more than 28 years of I experience. His columns have been skillfully compiled I For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ into a single reference volume. I ers, Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All The book is designed to :Ud thos • wh ar~ I machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also interested in solving the everyday problems confronted I available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. in pr3ctical clock repairing. This attractive, hlrd­ I Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert bound, 544-page encyclopedia of horologjL·al I Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ Information js published by the Americun mond, Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. Watchmakers Insi itute Press. Tht' price is t/ Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi­ just S30.00 postpaid.

ACRON ...... 43 AWl...... 18.45,54,63 AMERICAN PERF IT CORP . ...• . .. . . 55

BATT-TRONIC ...... - . 43 B.B. CRYSTAL CO. . . 55 JUNE BERGEON ...... - . 56 J. BOREL GROUP ...... 23 4-6-National Conference of the Society of Western Jewelers Conference; M/V Sun BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL . . . - .6 N. American Goldsmiths; University of Princess, Inside Passage, British Colum­ JOSEPHBULOVASCHOOL Kansas, Lawrence, KS bia and Alaska OF WATCHMAKING ...... 27

6-7-Sean C. (Pat) Monk speaker at the Watch­ 19-24-93rd California Gift Show; Los An­ CAS-KER CO ...... Inside Front Cover,56 makers Association of Pennsylvania geles Convention and Exhibition Center, CITIZEN WATCH CO . .. Outside Back Cover Convention; Hershey, PA the Los Angeles Mart, Los Angeles, CA EBAUCHES S.A ...... •... . •.. . 49 6-7-Kansas Jewelers Convention; Holidome, 19-22-SJTA Atlanta Show; Hyatt Regency Hutchinson, KS Hotel, Atlanta, GA EMPI RE CLOCK CO ...... 15 ESSLINGER & CO •• . .. •..•.. ... 3,51 7-10-1 nternational Investment Gemstone Con­ 19-22-New Orleans Gift & Jewelry Show; EV EREADY . . .•••...... 41 ference; Century Plaza Hotel , Los Rivergate Convention Center, New Or­ EW ING BROS ...... , . . •...... 7 Angeles, CA leans, LA EXCEL INDUSTRI ES ...... • . •. . 11

24-26-Watchmakers Association of Ohio An­ 20-21-Pennsylvania Jewelers Association Pitts­ G & G'S MIRACLE HOUSE ...... 36 burgh Jewelry Show: Greater Pittsburgh nual Convention; Marriott Inn East, GEM CITY COLLEGE. . ..• ...... 10 Merchandise Mart Expo Center, Mon­ Columbus, OH roeville, PA GLAS.FLEX...... • 44 25-29-JA Fall International Jewelry Trade THE GOULD CO...... 27 20-22-World Jewelry Trade Show; Las Vegas Show & Convention; Sheraton Centre Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV & New York Hilton Hotels, New York, IMPACT MFG ...... •. 6 NY 22-25-AWI Research and Education Council B. JADOW & SONS, INC . • . 26 (R EC) Instructors Meeting; Americana JEWELMONT ...... • . •.. 10 Hotel, Cincinnati, OH KANSAS CITY SCHOOL 26-AWI Affiliate Chapters Meeting; Americana Hotel , Cincinnati, OH AUGUST OF WATCHMAKING .. .. . 10 KIENZLE ... . . 36 27-28-AWI Annual Meetings and Board of 9-11-Jewelers of America/Central USA In­ KILB & CO ...... - 39 Directors Meeting; Americana Hotel, ternational Jewelry Trade Show and Cincinnati, OH Conference; Expocenter and Mart Plaza L & R MANUFACTURING . . 19 Hotel, Chicago, I L S. LAROSE, INC .. _ ... . . 40

9-12-Minneapolis Gift & Jewelry Show; MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD CO .. .. . 32,33 Hyatt Regency & Merchandise Mart, MAXELL CORP. OF AMERICA . . . . 29 JULY Minneapolis, MN MEDIA DIGITAL CORP. . 47 S. MIRA ...... 53 4-10-Christmas in July Gift and Jewelry Show; 15-17-Fall Pacific Jewelry Show; Century Dallas Market Center, Dallas, TX Plaza Hotel, Los Angeles, CA NB SALES .. • 52 6-8-University of Maine at Orono, Second 15-17-Mississippi Jewelers Association Annual Annual Course in Antique Jewelry and Convention; Biloxi Hilton, W. Beach PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE ...... 39 Gemstones; Oroo10 Campus, Orono, ME Blvd., Biloxi, MS PORTESCAP ...... • _ . . •... . . 5 PRECISION INSTRUMENT.. _ •...... 14 11-18-Pacific Northwest Jewelers Association, 22-25-74th Denver Gift and Jewelry Show; PRIMEX...... • ••.... 18 and Washington, Alaska, and Oregon Denver Merchandise Mart and Expo­ State Jewelers Association Quadrennial sition Center, Denver, CO SEIKO TIME CORP . Inside Back Cover E. & J. SWIGART CO . . • ...... 4 SWEST, INC ...... _ . .... 14 SWISS WATCH PARTS DIST. INC. . . 44

TWIN CITY WATCH SUPPLY CO . . 47

VICKSMAN JEWELERS. . . .•. _ . 44

WATCHES UNLIMITED . . . . . 57

YOUNG, NEAL CO., INC . . . 37

ZANTECHINC ...... • 31

64 /Iorulof(ical Times/June I 981 Simple repairs are simpler with genuine Seiko replacement parts.

STC-44 Spring Bar Assortment

HG-72 Battery Hatch Gasket Assortment

Now you can keep all the parts you need on sizes by millimeters. With illustrated chart hand to perform simple bracelet repairs and bat­ showing various sizes. Numbered unbreak­ tery hatch gasket replacements. Right where able clear bottles add extra convenience. you work. It's an efficient way to save time, effort Price: $16.50. and money, and keep customers happy. Seiko Battery Hatch Gasket Seiko Bracelet Replacement Screw Assortment HG-72 Assortment STC-144. 16 different size gaskets. 72 total fitting over 48 of the most popular screws, three of each 175 case numbers. Specifically designed parts kind, for most bracelets, clasps, and safety pack arranges gaskets for fast, efficient use. chains in the Seiko line. Complete with an With alphanumeric case number guide. illustrated case numbering chart to make Price: $37.50. selecting the appropriate part easy and These Iightweight, compact kits are convenient. Price: $26.75. professionally designed to offer the utmost in Seiko Stainless Steel Bracelet convenience. So you can perform professional, Spring Bar Assortment STC-44. convenient and profitable service for your 22 durable, dependable stainless steel spring customers. All kits available only through bars, two of each kind. Arranged in graduated Authorized Seiko Material Distributors. SEIKO Someday all watches will be made this way. Seiko Time Corporation-Material Sales Department 555 West 57th St., New York, N.Y.10019 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate measuring in­ Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQT-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQ'r-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of and balance wheel watches with America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accuracy you need. W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Its measuring range is from 0. Ol second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in­ ZE c We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic­ rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes­ California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store