The Art World's Gordon Gekko

FRIDAY-SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 5-7, 2010

Amsterdam explores the portrayal of women on Feb. 13-May 24 photography coins from Antiquity to the present day. % 49-40-3609-960 “Hatra: City of the Sun God” show- Pergamom Museum www.buceriuskunstforum.de cases photographic documentation of Until Dec. 31 the ancient city in Iraq. % 49-30-2090-5577 art Allard Pierson Museum www.smb.spk-berlin.de “Pop Life: Warhol, Haring, Koons, Hirst, Until Feb. 28 …” explores Andy Warhol’s statement % 31-20-5252-556 Bilbao that “good business is the best art” www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl photography with work by Tracey Emin, Keith Har- “Schommer Retrospective 1952-2009” ing, Damien Hirst, Takashi Murakami Antwerp shows 100 images by Spanish photog- and others. rapher Alberto Schommer. Hamburger Kunsthalle-Gallery of art Contemporary Art “Rubens Revealed—Fury of the Brush” Museo de Belles Artes de Bilbao Feb. 8-May 16 Feb. 12-May 9 presents findings of extensive re- % 49-40-4281-3120-0 The art world’s % 34-94-4396-060 search on paintings from the Rubens www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de collection of the Koninklijk Museum www.museobilbao.com voor Schone Kunsten. Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Copenhagen London Kunsten art theater Gordon Gekko Feb. 13-April 4 “Colour in Art” examines color sys- “A Man of No Importance” is a musi- % 32-3238-7809 tems used by 20th-century artists in cal based on the book by Terrence Mc- www.kmska.be more than 100 works of art, including Nally about a Dublin bus conductor eight paintings by Kandinsky. with music by Stephen Flaherty. It is A former corporate raider Basel Louisiana Museum of Modern Art directed by Ben De Wynter. The Arts Theatre art Until June 13 shakes up the market % 45-4919-0719 Feb. 10-Feb. 27 “Fasnacht & Art & Tinguely” displays % 44-845-0175-584 www.louisiana.dk art and props from 100 years of Basel www.artstheatrewestend.com Fasnacht, a carnaval celebrated to mark the end of winter. Hamburg photography Museum Tinguely art “Deutsche Börse Photography Prize Until May 16 “Genuine Illusions: Illusion and Reality 2010” shows work by the four artists % 41-61-6819-320 in Art” showcases drawings, paint- shortlisted for the prize. www.tinguely.ch ings and sculptures devoted to trick- The Photographers’ Gallery ing the eye, including work by Lucas Feb. 12-April 18 Berlin Cranach, Claes Oldenburg, Jasper % 44-845-2621-618 currency Johns and Janet Cardiff. www.photonet.org.uk “Strong Women-in Miniature Form” Bucerius Kunst Forum music Foundation E.G. Buhrle Collection “ABBAWorld” is an interactive Above, Jean Willi’s ‘OP-ART-ertieverkalkig,” (Pfluderi Clique) (1967) at Museum exhibition about the Swedish Tinguely in Basel; bottom, Lady Gaga will start her U.K. tour in Manchester. pop band ABBA presenting 25 rooms of memorabilia, music, footage and images. Earls Court Exhibition Manchester Centre music Damien Hirst” displays 150 art pieces Until March 28 “Lady Gaga - The Monster Ball Tour” representing vanity objects, including % 44-1159-1290-00 starts the U.K. tour of the Grammy early mosaics from Pompeii. www.abbaworld.com Award-winning pop singer. Musée Maillol Feb. 18 M.E.N. Arena, Manchester Until June 28 % Feb. 20-21 The O2, Dublin 33-1-4222-5958 Luxembourg www.museemaillol.com art Feb. 22 The Belfast Odyssey Arena Feb. 24 Liverpool Echo Arena “Everyday(s)” exhibits contem- art Feb. 26-27 The O2, London porary art on the theme of “The Image Factory” presents 160 orig- (continues into March) everyday life, with work by inal objects from different historical www.livenation.co.uk Bruno Baltzer, David Bestué and ethnical backgrounds around the & Marc Vives and others. world, illustrating totemism, natural- Casino Luxembourg Munich ism, animism and analogy. Forum d’Art Contemporain art Musée du Quai Branly Until April 11 “Maharaja: The Splendour of India’s Feb. 16-July 15 % 352-2250-45 Royal Courts” explores the culture of % 33-1-5661-7000 www.casino-luxembourg.lu maharajas through Indian and West- www.quaibranly.fr ern works. Lisbon Kunsthalle der Hypo-Kulturstiftung Rotterdam art Feb. 12-May 23 art “In the Presence of Things” % 49-89-2244-12 “Inside out: Museum Boijmans Van Be- displays 71 paintings from www.hypo-kunsthalle.de uningen on Show” showcases master- the 17th and 18th centuries, pieces by artists such as Frans Hals including work by Juan art and Jacob van Ruisdael alongside mod- Sanchéz Cotán, Pieter “Peter Loewy: Drawings” presents por- ern work by Giorgio Morandi and Claesz, Rembrandt and Fran- trait photography created from close- Frank Stella. cisco de Goya. ups and distortions of drawings by Kunsthal Museu Calouste the German photographer. Feb. 6-May 24 Gulbenkian Pinakothek der Moderne % 31-10-4400-301 Feb. 12-May 2 Feb. 9-April 11 www.kunsthal.nl % 351-21-7823-000 % 49-89-2380-5360 www.museu.gulbenkian.pt www.pinakothek.de Zurich design Madrid Paris “Global Design” traces the effects of photography photography globalization on the world of design “Saved Art” presents archive “Lisette Model” showcases 120 im- since the 1970s, following develop- photos and video projections ages of New York in the 1940s by the ments in architecture, graphics, media, documenting the fate of fa- Austrian-born American photographer. fashion, product and industrial design. mous works of art during the Jeu de Paume—Concorde Museum of Design Spanish Civil war. Feb. 9-June 6 Feb. 12-May 30 Museo Nacional del Prado % 33-1-4703-1250 % 41-43-4466-767 - Paseo del Prado www.jeudepaume.org www.museum-gestaltung.ch Until March 21 % 34-91-3302-800 art Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- www.museodelprado.es “C’est la Vie! Vanity, From Caravaggio to vice, WSJE research. Getty Images

W12 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL Wine:Wine: The The chilled best pleasure of Christmas of Eiswein drinking Travel: European Stockholm’s Web habits island revealed landscape v Books

Business Bookshelf / By Philip Delves Broughton Contents 7 A ‘Rye’ By 3 | Fashion 6-7 | Cover story Art 10 | Top Picks More Than A Paycheck Any Other

Daniel Pink is one of the more procreating in caves. Next came when we have control over our lows its programmers 20% of their Name And the Oscar nominees wear... De Stijl works in London energetic members of the growing Motivation 2.0, during which we time and decisions and when we time to work on any software prob- The Gordon Gekko tribe of business writers-speakers- made calculations based on re- feel a deep sense of purpose. Un- lem they like, provided it is not By Jan Morris 4 | Food & Wine bloggers who, like the ubiquitous ward or punishment. Economic de- der such conditions, we can part of their regular job. The pro- Lundquist’s ambiguity Malcolm Gladwell, plunder the velopment depended on manipulat- achieve real mastery over what- grammers turn out to be much So that strange old genius of the art world work of economists, scientists and ing our desires and fears to ex- ever it is that we do. more efficient with that 20% of what’s-his-name has left us at last— psychologists to attack well-estab- tract performance. The modern their time than you know who I mean, what was his The debate over Blending folk with modern lished business assumptions. Mr. And now we are reaching Moti- workplace, Mr. they are with name, you know, the man who Pink is known for vation 3.0, a higher Pink laments, is their regular wrote “The Catcher in the Rye”? molecular gastronomy public presenta- plane where people too often set up work hours. At- Ah, there we go. How often it Collecting: Madrid fair tions in which he Drive write Wikipedia en- to deny us this lassian credits happens, does it not, that we re- delivers a consis- tries for the fun of opportunity. the 20% with member the name of a book when tently upbeat mes- By Daniel H. Pink it, go on “vocation Firms that hope many of its in- we momentarily forget the name of spotlights L.A. artists sage: that the mis- (Riverhead, 242 pages) vacations” to try to optimize effi- novations and its author? It only goes to show erable age of 20th- out professions dif- ciency by mak- its high staff re- what skill and artistry can go into 11 | Books century manage- ferent from their ing their employ- tention. Compa- the titling of literary works. Some-

t Our arts and Surprising Truth About What Moti- work of Edward Deci and Richard he argues, is giving workers the Best Buy has implemented a “re- But sometimes the more ob- COVER, Asher Edelman in front of vates Us,” Mr. Pink tries to jolly us Ryan at the University of Roches- chance to do their best work by sults oriented work environment” scure or enigmatic the title, the bet- Wine: A frosty night for Eiswein James Nares’ ‘Ride the Ride,’ (2000). culture calendar all along toward accepting it. He ter and Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi at granting them more autonomy and at its corporate headquarters in ter it is remembered. When Alex- Photograph by Ethan Hill for The Wall Street Journal. sets up the following history. First Claremont Graduate University. helping them to achieve the mas- Richfield, Minn., to improve mo- ander Kinglake called his ultimate 5 | Travel came Motivation 1.0, during which These three researchers have tery that may come with it. rale and lower turnover. This masterpiece of travel writing

David Dunning David we were stirred by nothing but found that we do our best work Mr. Pink cites an Australian means that salaried employees put Eothen, he must have realized that our urges—grunting, hunting and when motivated from within, software firm, Atlassian, that al- in as much time as it takes to do hardly anybody would understand their jobs, on their own schedule. what it meant, but it has kept his Stockholm’s 30,000 islands If they need to duck out to take a book in print for 166 years. Bruce Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor Five Best / By Janice Y.K. Lee 7 child to the doctor, they don’t Chatwin knew just what he was do- 8 | Sport Elisabeth Limber Art director have to ask. It is assumed that ing when he omitted a question Brian M. Carney Books page editor they will do their work in their mark from his title “Why Am I Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. ‘Gaddi’ (Thron) Maharaja: the Splen- Novels Set in the Colonial East own time. The hope is that, in Here.” And when it comes to obscu- Please include your full name and address. Golf: The politics of the sport dour of India’s Royal Courts, Munich. such an environment, workers will rity, what about John Masefield’s feel more inclined to contribute to ODTAA (meaning “One Damn The Hamilton Case pets and had a baby out of wed- acters that include a low-caste gi- the company’s well-being than Thing After Another”), or “Seven By Michelle de Kretser lock with a married British intelli- ant who runs away with a widow; they would if they were simply Pillars of Wisdom,” or for that mat- 2003 gence officer. (“I don’t know why I a mulatto sailor with “skin the grinding out hours for a paycheck. ter “The Catcher in the Rye” itself? Conflicted, painfully snob- have always had so little con- color of old ivory”; and Paulette, a From these and other scattered What Catcher did J.D.Salinger— bish Sam Obeysekere would science about married men,” she French orphan. These people will data points, Mr. Pink rustles up his that’s the name!—have in mind? I 52 Blogger’s revenue source Down 44 “Fear and Loathing 81 Patronizing types 1rather be “under an imperialistic writes languidly.) Cut to the war meet as they gradually make their trend. Is it plausible? It is easy to am re-reading the book now, and I THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 53 Continental Congress VIP 1 Lettuce variety ___ Vegas” 83 Harry Belafonte’s yoke than put trust in a fellow and the horror; she describes it all way to the Ibis, a triple-masted find fault with some of his claims. don’t know yet… 45 Around daughter schooner that is being prepped to Across 21 Requiring 28 ___ Ration (bygone 42 It may be knitted 56 Pastel shade 2 Height: Prefix who went about in sandals.” Sam, with appropriate solemnity but Mr. Pink cites research showing Who can doubt for a moment 46 Honeycomb, e.g. 87 Grumpy comment take indentured workers to Mauri- fewer dog food brand) 43 Partner of 58 Fabergé egg recipients 3 Couple an Oxford-educated Ceylonese law- never loses the tone of a su- that artists do better work for that authors themselves chose all 1 Cabo San Lucas 47 Element of many to an alarm clock tius, off the African coast. Ghosh hints 29 Molasses-flavored 93-Across 59 Asian celebration 4 Like NRA foes yer, lives in colonial duality: a privi- premely acerbic society gadabout themselves than on commission. these canny titles? Hardly an editor setting murder mysteries? 89 Model employers 22 Reba McEntire’s pie 5 “Know this ___” leged member of the local aristoc- confiding in you at a cocktail revels in the joy of language—“as So much for the Sistine Chapel. He on earth would have left out 5 Toy plane makeup 46 Common 60 Story with cliffhangers 92 Hardly a neatnik “___ Survivor” 51 Colossal chuckmuck a rascal as ever you’ll 10 Mother’s mother, 31 Purel target miniature golf 6 Latin lover’s word racy in 1930s Sri Lanka who plays party. writes in favor of companies that Chatwin’s question mark. Most pub- 62 Sweet substitute 54 2000 Kyocera 94 ___ 300 (short-lived see: eyes as bright as muggerbees, informally 23 Partner of 33 Partner of course feature 7 Pleasant diversion cricket and attended a school allow employees more say in their lishers, especially of the academic 64 Noticed acquisition Apple laptop) smile like a xeraphim”—but he is 16 Shatner novel 114-Across 100-Across 48 Bullet, for one ___ “founded in 1862 by an Anglican The Necklace of Kali firms’ charitable giving. But why kind, are very heavy-handed title- 66 Maxim demonstrated 8 Site of a hit song’s 55 Armstrong moniker 95 “Thereby hangs ” “___War” 26 Popcorn gift 37 Like some 49 “Tell It to My bishop on the pattern of Eton and By Robert Towers also a splendid storyteller. In the don’t these firms drop the pater- writers, and go in for colonic things by the partnered answers instrumental version, 96 High points container skating outfits Heart” singer maybe 57 Abbey attire Rugby” and yet can be called a “nig- 1960 last pages, the Ibis is being tossed nalism altogether and simply give like “Fire and Destiny: Patrimonial 19 Cursor target in this puzzle 98 Group founded Taylor 61 Triangular sail ger” on the streets outside his club. by a mighty storm, the characters the money to their employees as 20 Modern 27 Madonna’s 41 Message for ___ 9 Without a date by Bill W.’s wife For a refreshing, re- Custom in Nineteenth Century Mon- ___ 71 Entr’ 63 Common place? growing desperate. I was desper- memo “La Isla ” a pen pal? 50 Unfailingly 10 Come by 101 Gas, for one He makes a name for himself with a fracted perspective on co- pay, trusting them to do their best golia,” or “Hungry Armies: Medi- 72 Tabloid twins surname 65 Haing S. ___ ate, too, for the next book. 11 Fan’s cheer 102 Branch of the U.N.? local murder case involving a Brit- lonial3 India—that of a U.S. State with it? And one has to wonder eval Victualling Systems Reconsid- Dance Number / by Todd McClary 73 Maker of small engines (Oscar winner for 12 Simile center 103 Caress alternative ish (read: white) tea-plantation Department officer in the days whether Mr. Pink’s flexible, mean- ered.” It’s fine when Isaac Walton 76 Network that debuted “The Killing Fields”) A Many-Splendored Thing 13 Big name in burlesque 104 Diplôme issuer owner. All this against a compli- “when the weird old body of the ingful-work model is widely appli- subtitles “The Compleat Angler” as with “Star Trek: Voyager” 67 Hull feature By Han Suyin 14 Phifer of “ER” and 108 Does in cated, almost gothic backdrop of British Raj was at last thrashing cable or something that only se- “A Discourse of Rivers, Fish-ponds, 79 Stilettos, e.g. 68 Office pool picks 1952 “Lie to Me” 110 CBS-owned tech family dysfunction: not one but like some foundering dinosaur to- lected companies will be able to Fish and Fishing,” but disastrous 69 Expressway entrance “You can’t be both east 82 Schoolwork stickers 15 Crime that may cause review site two smothered babies, glamorous wards extinction”—read Robert adopt. when the University Press of South 70 Pushkin’s “Eugene ___” and west at the same 84 “Zorba the Greek” setting an alarm 111 Colleague of Ellen, mothers and sisters slowly going Towers’s “The Necklace of Kali.” What is more, the truths that Middlesboro tries to emulate him. 74 Boys’ school jackets time,”5 says British foreign corre- Randy and Simon mad in evening gowns, the deep jun- Consulate Visa Officer John Wick- Mr. Pink cites are not nearly as Publishers’ instincts of salesman- 85 Ipanema locale 16 Retaliation spondent Mark Elliott to the beau- 75 Protective bank 112 Factory overhead? gle always just outside. “The Hamil- ham is part of what is called the “surprising” as he claims. They are ship are certainly not infallible, as I 86 Christopher of 17 Expressionist painter of tiful Eurasian doctor Han Suyin. 76 Polaris’s place 115 Went underground ton Case” is an extraordinary, dizzy- “Jungly Wallah” set: “a shifting to be found in centuries of philoso- know from experience. Fifty years “Law & Order: SVU” “Grosse Sonnenblumen” But of course she can, in roiling, 77 “Für Elise,” for one 116 Creator of NASA ingly evocative portrait of Sri Lan- population of rich Indians, Per- phy, in the Pre-Socratics, in Plato, ago I wrote a book about Venice. 88 City name on the 18 2009 awards postwar colonial Hong Kong, show disrupter 78 Put up 117 Leb. neighbor ka’s colonial past, where “the Brit- in “Walden.” Yes, indeed: Beyond When it was published in London I Wizard of Oz’s balloon sians, Armenians, poor but inge- where people “circulate among the 80 Mundane 118 Contend ish had entered the country’s blood- serving our basic needs, money 90 Presidential address part 24 Shrek creator William nious White Russians . . . and as- bridge and mahjong tables.” In named it simply “Venice,” and it has stream like a malady which proves doesn’t buy happiness. We need a 91 Book of Judges strongman 25 Lab vessel sorted American and Britons,” Han’s semiautobiographical novel been providing me with a modest so resistant that the host organism greater purpose in our lives. Our private income from that day to this. 93 Partner of 43-Across 30 Gamblers’ haunts, briefly Last Week’s Solution who take their name from the “A Many-Splendored Thing,” the adapts itself to accommodate it.” club they all frequent. Wickham is most precious resource is time. In America they renamed it “The 97 Indigo plant 32 Olympics award widowed doctor embarks on a a complicated, principled man, We respond badly to conditions of World of Venice,” and for several de- 98 Way to order shots? 34 Senseless situation? doomed, short-lived affair with 35 Raise China to Me whose dealings with people from servitude, whether the lash of the cades it has not earned me a cent. 99 Charade the dashing—and married—jour- 36 Sides in a By Emily Hahn all strata of society mirror the un- nalist. The starry-eyed quality of galley master or the more subtle And to get back to “The Catcher 100 Partner of 33-Across long-running battle 1944 easiness of a country on the cusp their infatuation leads to occa- enslavement of monthly pay- in the Rye,” with its unforgettable ti- ___ 105 Put appearance 37 Cineplex quaffs The people in Emily of a bloody independence. sional sentimentality: “Mark and I checks, quarterly performance tar- tle and its still irresistible text. Yes- 106 Largest of the Galápagos 38 Crumble away Hahn’s frank and unapolo- had many friends, and one of them gets and the fear of losing health terday I came across an examination 107 Folded fast food 2getic memoir, “China to Me,” Sea of Poppies insurance. Work that allows us to paper about it. “Question One,” it 39 Saudi’s neighbor was the moon.” But the book is an feel in control of our lives is better 109 Seat belt sounds 40 Fog machine material seem like characters in a Noël By Amitay Ghosh invaluable—and startlingly mod- said. “What is the significance of the 113 Hardly Coward play, making an entrance, 2008 ern—record of a certain time and than work that does not. Nonethe- book’s title?” Well, this morning I less, these lessons are worth re- 114 Partner of 23-Across WSJ.com uttering their bon mots, then Amitay Ghosh uses a place, thanks to Han’s razor-sharp got to page 180 and discovered what peating, and if more companies the significance is; but I’m telling 119 Arena cry sweeping off stage. The palmy vast and vibrant canvas eye for the hypocrisies of the colo- Crossword online world of 1940s prewar Shanghai 4for “Sea of Poppies,” the first in a nial order, as when a society ma- feel emboldened to follow Mr. you, based as it is upon the misquota- 120 Ducks For an interactive and British-governed Hong Kong trilogy that is still being written. tron remarks that “Hong Kong Pink’s advice, then so much the tion of a poem by Robbie Burns, it’s a 121 1966 role for Michael Caine version of The Wall is rendered in swish dinner par- Set in the years before the Opium would be a wonderful place if better. very quintessence of obscurity. 122 Someone to root for Street Journal Crossword, ties and horse races attended by Wars in the mid-19th century, there were not so many Chinese.” “The Catcher in the Rye,” I am 123 Casting need WSJ.com subscribers dashing expatriates knocking back when Britain was making a for- Mr. Delves Broughton is the au- told, has so far sold 65 million cop- 124 Bank, e.g. can go to champagne. Hahn, an American tune from poppy crops in India, Ms. Lee’s novel, “The Piano thor of “Ahead of the Curve: Two ies. It only goes to show. . . . 125 Amendment votes WSJ.com/WeekendJournal writer who cared not a whit for the story opens in the port city of Teacher,” was recently published Years at Harvard Business 126 Without a date public opinion, kept gibbons for Calcutta and brings together char- in paperback. School” (Penguin). Ms. Morris is a writer in Wales.

W2 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W11 v Top Picks v Fashion

Vast offering of De Stijl art in London Carey Mulligan tops many designers’ wish lists for her risk-taking London: Tate Modern has a Mondrian (1872-1944). Mondrian’s Jockeying to dress the stars and love of fashion. But these same whopper of a show, with a title to paintings, scattered through the factors may make her less widely match its size: “Van Doesburg and more than a dozen rooms of this influential. She wore a Nina Ricci the International Avant-Garde: Con- vast show, leap off the walls, despite As Oscars approach, designers vie to grab the right celebrities gown to the Golden Globes.

structing a New World.” Though being hung with many painters who Courtesy Margo Leavin Gallery, Los Angeles this is the first major exhibition in adopted the same format, geomet- ‘Agave Plant’ (1999/2008) by the U.K. dedicated to the Dutch art- ric means and media. John Baldessari. Price on request. ist Theo van Doesburg (1883-1931), To my eyes it is obvious that ITH THE ACADEMY pet photos are at the heart of ucts and prices: Moroccanoil Treat- its early Modernist scope is larger Mondrian is better than other, simi- Award nominations out StyleSpot’s strategy. The site, ment, $39 (Œ28) for 3.4 fl. oz. than the one man, who worked in lar De Stijl artists, such as Vilmos Madrid fair Wthis week, fashion design- which launched last year, links ce- Dressing Angelina Jolie, Anne practically all the art forms extant Huszár, Karl Peter Röhl, Walter ers are already jockeying to dress lebrity red-carpet photos to online Hathaway and Kyra Sedgwick in in his lifetime. His real importance Dexel, Peter Keler and van Does- the stars for their big night. But retail stores from Barneys to Ama- one-of-a-kind vintage gowns has Maggie was as the founder of the magazine burg himself. But there is more to to spotlight rather than trying to pick the Os- zon.com. StyleSpot’s database com- rubbed off in sales of totally unre- car winners or the most fashion- piles images from red-carpet Gyllenhaal’s and movement called De Stijl. this exhibition than these paintings— lated clothes, says Juliana Cairone, able celebrities, designers should events and organizes them by owner of the New York vintage bou- insider choices Examples are exhibited of van breathtaking compositions in L.A. artists be asking another question: Who star, event, and designer brand. tique Rare. “They are not looking make her a fashion Doesburg’s contributions to paint- stained glass, Bauhaus designs, and RCO, WHICH takes place will be the most effective at get- The site, which estimates its for the same item,” she says, “they darling but could ing, architecture, design, typogra- wonderful De Stijl furniture, espe- in Madrid Feb. 17-21, ting viewers to buy the clothes unique monthly audience at just want something from us.” alienate some phy, poetry, art criticism and pub- cially the large group by Gerrit A will kick off 2010’s major in- they see on the red carpet? around 10 million people, earns Having jealously noted these consumers. She Thomas Rietveld. There are exam- lishing. But more important, and of- ternational contemporary- revenue as a percentage of sales benefits, menswear labels are wore iconoclastic ples of terrific commercial and pop- ten artistically superior, are the ex- art fairs and will spotlight when consumers click on a photo starting to go after male artists. Roland Mouret ular art, and excursions into Dada, hibits of work by others he influ- artists from this year’s On Style and purchase the related item. At last week’s Grammy’s, members to the Golden Constructivism, film and musical enced. Van Doesburg believed in guest city, Los Angeles. Red carpets have become a pri- of Kings of Leon appeared in Burb- Globes. composition; also some sensational CHRISTINA BINKLEY an abstract, geometric art, depen- mary marketing channel for fash- erry and John Varvatos. dent on horizontal and vertical models and interior designs—even ion. The Academy Award nomi- So who’s the Oscars’ Actor lines, at first shunning the diago- a lip-smacking menu for the Café Collecting Among this year’s nominees, nees’ photos will be plastered Most Likely to Sell Fashion—the Aubette cinema-dance hall in Stras- nal—to the point that this became MARGARET STUDER the “best seller” award is likely to from Boise to Budapest after the man with Ms. Bullock’s combina- a matter for arguments that were bourg, on which van Doesburg col- go to a nominee whom few in the March 7 awards show, which will tion of attractive looks and guy- almost theological. laborated with Sophie Taeuber and fashion world are discussing: San- be watched by something north of next-door accessibility? He also went through a period of Hans Arp. —Paul Levy The first two days of the dra Bullock. At StyleSpot.com, a 35 million television viewers—and No, not Jeremy Renner, the sexy MoMa excluding all but the primary colors. Until May 16 fair are restricted to profes- Los Angeles-based Web site that seen on a gazillion blogs. It’s an star of “The Hurt Locker.” The Theo van Doesburg’s ‘Simultaneous Counter-Composition’ (1929-30). This of course brings to mind Piet www.tate.org.uk sional visitors such as collec- links red-carpet photos to stores irresistible advertising medium. In street money’s on Best Supporting tors and museums. They can that sell the looks, Ms. Bullock’s Vi- Los Angeles, designers employ VIP Actor nominee Woody Harrelson. buy before doors open to the vienne Westwood dress at the Peo- handlers, who work to get the de- general public Feb. 19. ple’s Choice Awards ranked among signers’ clothes on celebrities who “There is a lot of curiosity the top of all red-carpet appear- might be photographed in them. Revelatory Lundquist retrospective looks at ambiguity at this fair as Spain’s art ances this year in inspiring viewers The fashion industry does this scene grows steadily, but to “click through” to retail sites. because it works. After Sienna Stockholm: At first glance, dquist retrospective at Stockholm’s around a museum show before an without frenzy,” says Victor One lesson: It isn’t pure chic Miller wore Thakoon’s spring bust- “Torso,” a 1961 painting by Swedish Moderna Museet. opening with tubes of paint, chang- Gisler of Zurich’s Mai 36 Gale- that moves clothes. “For the most ier jumper to the premiere of the artist Evert Lundquist, seems to be At the peak of his career in the ing canvasses at the last minute rie. Mr. Gisler, a veteran par- part, celebrities that drive sales fashion documentary “The Septem- an early modernist update on an old 1950s and ’60s, Lundquist (1904-94) with only the help of his fingers. ticipant, says he will bring aren’t necessarily the ones that ber Issue,” every store that European tradition. With a cen- was Sweden’s best-known painter. Lundquist is a near-abstract art- along the works of artists re- get nominated” for awards, says bought the piece sold out, says a trally placed, sketchy motif—possi- But a rather old-fashioned view of ist, and his best paintings maintain ceiving increasing attention Lily Hollander, editorial director spokeswoman for designer Thak- bly a sculpture on a table, or a nude the artist’s work allowed many a tantalizing tension between a in southern Europe, includ- of StyleSpot.com. The 45-year-old oon Panichgul. Meryl with her arms behind her—the Swedes to dismiss Lundquist—or richly textured abstract background ing those of technically versa- Ms. Bullock has a down-to-earth Yet success, for a designer, is a Streep’s painting has a haunting stillness even forget about him entirely. The and a figurative motif. His best tile German photographer image that means millions of delicate balance of star power and maturity and that reminds us of Jean-Siméon ModernaMuseetshowseekstoredis- works—like “The Axe” (1974)—are Thomas Ruff and American women relate to her. timing. After Jessica Alba pre- pristine fashion Chardin. But our modernist eye de- cover and reinterpret the artist’s variations on the theme of a figura- painter Glen Rubsamen with By contrast, with her Best Ac- sented an award at the People’s choices may ceives us. “Torso” has led a double work by emphasizing the role that tive object trapped in an abstract his mysterious, emotional tress Oscar nomination for “An Ed- Choice awards last month, her appeal to the life. Lundquist also exhibited the improvisation and randomness canvass. Only very late in life, when landscapes silhouetting shift- ucation” this week, Carey Mulligan Burberry Prorsum knotted plat- huge over-40 painting turned on its side, thereby played in his technique. he was nearly blind, did the motif it- ing trees and lamp posts. has dozens of fashion designers vy- form sandals generated the most market. She seeming to create a different work, Fond of thick applications of self emerge as dominant, like in his Some 220 European, ing to lend her baubles and gowns click-throughs to retail sites of arrived at the called “Still Life,” with a different paint, Lundquist was capable of a 1988 painting “The Cup,” in which a SMK Foto American, South American for the Oscars. The young actress any red-carpet appearance this Screen Actors motif, this time of an apparent table spontaneity that recalls America’s white cup rises out from its sea- and Asian galleries with work with the pixie haircut is known as season on StyleSpot. Guild wearing setting. “Torso,” in its upright posi- Jackson Pollock rather than Eu- green surface. —J.S. Marcus Evert Lundquist’s ‘The Axe’ (1974). from around 3,000 artists a sophisticated dresser. “Carey Unfortunately for Burberry, a spring tion, is one of many ambiguous rope’s Old Masters. The catalog re- Until April 11 will exhibit at this year’s fair. Mulligan will be the most watched those spring-season shoes won’t be Balenciaga works on display in a revelatory Lun- counts a story of Lundquist walking www.modernamuseet.se ARCO usually features a on Vogue.com,” says Hamish available in stores for another gown. guest country, but for the Bowles, Vogue’s European editor at month. So shoppers had to settle first time this year the orga- large, recalling a sparkling Prada for similar looks offered on the site nizers have invited a guest dress the actress wore recently. by Robert Clergerie and Callisto. Indian exhibit blends folk-art traditions with modern imaging city—Los Angeles, described But despite Ms. Mulligan’s fash- Of course, there are ancillary by curators Kris Kuramitsu ion credibility, she may not be the benefits. High-profile fashion pub- London: The Saatchi Gallery, PCs are common, an emerging high- andtherelationshipbetweentheeco- of Indian or Pakistani origin, some and Christopher Miles as a savviest choice for product place- licist Karla Otto, who recently that perfect blend of art and com- tech culture has led to enclaves of nomicclimateand theart world is ex- of whom live and work in America “21st century metropolis” ment. At StyleSpot.com, Ms. Mulli- opened a Los Angeles VIP office, merce, has found its ideal theme in wealth and entrepreneurship. This in pressed in political, stereotype-bust- or Britain. The quality is variable, with a dynamism, energy and gan isn’t one of the stars who says any appearance by an A-List its current show, “The Empire turn has led to a lively art world, ing, gender-conscious works of art. but at its considerable best—as in creative diversity that has moves the most viewers to buy actress “sells product from cloth- Strikes Back: Indian Art Today.” where folk-art traditions collide with The show’s 11 large galleries fea- Atul Dodiya’s homage to the late situated it at the forefront of clothes. Ms. Mulligan wasn’t avail- ing to accessories and, if the con- As the mobile phone has spread the computer-generated image; reli- ture works owned by Charles Saat- painter Bhupen Khakhar—it has the world’s art market. able to comment. sumer can’t afford the attire, they across the Indian subcontinent and gious icons fuse with new materials; chi and created by 24 living artists some of the resonances of great In- Seventeen guest galleries Celebrity placement is more might buy the fragrance or the dian art of the past. from Los Angeles will be fea- voodoo than science, but among beauty products.” I particularly enjoyed gallery 8, tured. The Margo Leavin Gal- this year’s nominees, other Oscar Brands’ publicists fire off Penelope Cruz Bharti Kher’s ‘An Absence of Assignable Cause’ with Subodh Gupta’s paintings and lery will include works by sales influencers may include plus- press releases the minute their has high shopper appeal. (The Heart) (2007). sculptures of stainless steel and 78-year-old John Baldessari, sized Gabourey Sidibe and the clas- star steps outside. During last At the Screen Actors brass kitchen utensils, and Bharti the Californian concept and sic Meryl Streep. Ms. Sidibe, the Sunday’s Grammy Awards, Emilio Guild, she wore a dress Kher’s collage of candy-colored, felt mixed-media exponent who star of “Precious,” is “an alternate Pucci announced that singer/ac- by L’Wren Scott. bindis (the spot on the forehead was awarded the Golden Lion paradigm for the red carpet, but tress Fergie appeared in its blue worn by married women). Gallery for his life’s work at the Ven- she can carry these very strong strapless dress, while Judith 10 has three impressive, huge works ice Biennale in 2009 and colors,” Mr. Bowles says. Leiber announced she carried a and one small one by Jitish Kallat. whose major works now sell And Ms. Streep’s maturity and Leiber clutch. Each time Fergie Photo illustration The four-meter high “Eruda” is a in the six digits. On display demure style choices may appeal wore Missoni in Cannes last by Angela Calderon/ The Wall Street Journal black lead-covered sculpture of one will be Mr. Baldessari’s “Agave to women over 40, who spend week, the brand shot out a re- of the boy booksellers who work at Plant,” (1999/2008), a large more on fashion than other demo- lease. “I hope that others will Photos: Associated Press traffic lights on the streets of Mum- print with colorful acrylic graphic groups. be influenced by her great per- bai. Though most have never been paint depicting the succulent Among top StyleSpot.com sell- sonal style,” said designer An- to school and are illiterate, they en- plant that thrives in Mexico. ers who aren’t current Oscar nomi- gela Missoni in an email. gage in authoritative conversations Meanwhile, the Steve nees, Kate Hudson and Drew Barry- Nothing is too minor for about the books they’re selling. Turner Gallery will include more are in a sweet spot—fashion- mention. Stylist Mark Sandra Bullock’s While at the Saatchi Gallery, be the work of 36-year-old Ea- able, and young enough to inspire Townsend announced that he huge fan base and girl-next-door certain to see Richard Wilson’s mas- mon Ore-Giron, whose paint- Internet shoppers, yet not so set actress January Jones’s image have made her a potent terpiece, “20:50,” which floods part ings and installations mix young that they’re attracting teens hair in a French twist for the fashion seller. Here, she arrives of the lower ground floor with a South and North American or college-aged women, who don’t Golden Globes, blow drying at last month’s Golden Globes in pond of reflective, used engine oil. cultures. His “Diana” (2008), have a lot of money for clothes. her hair “with a round a Bottega Veneta gown. —Paul Levy made from a Diana Ross al- A number of sites track what brush” and securing “it Until May 7 bum sleeve, will be priced at celebrities wear so that viewers with about 10 bobby pins.” www.saatchigallery.com $3,500 (Œ2,507). can copy the styles. But red-car- He also named hair prod- Bharti Kher, 2010

W10 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W3 v Food & Wine A frosty night for Eiswein OR ERNST LOOSEN the call tions have to be just right and the Fcame at 3 a.m. “It was my chief temperature has to fall to as low as The state of molecular cuisine viticulturalist,” says one of Germa- minus 8 Celsius, which means that in ny’s most talked about winemakers. Germany, it can’t be made every year. “We knew from the forecast that the The process is relatively straight- frost was coming, but that night the forward. After the main harvest a temperature had dropped suffi- small percentage of Riesling grapes ciently. ‘This is it,’ he told me on the are left on the vine until they shrivel phone. ‘We start picking in an hour.’” into small parcels of soggy, brown mush. Then the waiting game begins. Long-range weather forecasts will be '/ 0 1 '2 ' ! + ' # % ! 9' 5 0 ' ' '#' % Wine studied and lucky charms consulted ! !"# $% & ' ' ' 3 '0 0 4 ' ' 0' ! (8 ' " 30 5' " while the winemakers sit patiently, ' ' " (() 5 0 5 0 5 0 WILL LYONS waiting for the temperature to reach * + , -.-. ( 0#' , 6.-766 ' " ' " , 6.-766 1 , 6.-766 the right level. What the winemakers By 4 a.m. on Dec. 17, Mr. Loosen are hoping for is a punishing frost to had raised his team of pickers. Their freeze the grapes. As a rule of destination was Erdener Prälat, a thumb, the colder the temperature south-facing vineyard planted on a during the harvest, the higher the fi- step of red slate soil whose vines nal sugar concentration can be ob- stretch steeply down toward the tained at pressing. As water freezes banks of the Mosel in Germany. at a higher temperature than grape Together, under the artificial juice it encapsulates the golden, glow of generator-powered lights, sweet goo into a frozen pellet. the team agloves to avoid frostbite Once picked, the frozen grapes and clutching secateurs they began are transported to the winery harvesting the compact bunches of where they are gently pressed. The tiny, frozen Riesling grapes. By 10 sweet juice, high in sugar and acid- a.m. they had finished. By that time, ity, is then run off and fermented. Mr. Loosen admitted, it had become Fortunately, 2009 for the Mosel, as for most wine-growing regions too foggy to continue and the temperature wasn’t cold enough. throughout Europe, is shaping up to El Bulli be a very good year. <'*' )' = 1' ' ' - > ' .7 43 1' 0' 14 " 0 '3 0% 5 ! ' ' If you have ever wondered why “It was really a great Eiswein har- ' ' ' 3 # " # ' 0 . '0 '" !' )'" '0 # 0 By Javier Espinoza the price of vintage Eiswein can cost vest because we got just the right : '# ' ' 1' !'! 8 '0 ( ' #' ' 1' (! ' " )# '" 5 0 OR YEARS, so-called molecu- as much as £50 for a small bottle— mix of frost and temperature,” says + " 9 0 , 6.67; ' #' , 6-;7 ?' ? , 67-7 ' " ' " , 6.-766 lar gastronomy, an avant- now you know. Welcome to Germa- Mr. Loosen. “For me the perfect Eis- garde culinary movement ny’s Eiswein harvest of 2009, where F wein is always harvested before best known for its gels and emul- picking starts in the middle of the Christmas and this year everything night at temperatures around minus 9 sions and its wild chemical experi- worked out perfectly.” Celsius. This is winemaking in the ex- ments with food, has teased the pal- Despite Germany’s historical as- ates of diners. treme, where the effort that goes into sociation with Eiswein—it is said the With Spain’s Ferran Adrià—often making it probably justifies its eye-wa- technique was discovered in its val- regarded as the founding father of teringly high price. That, and the un- leys in the late 18th century after an the movement—announcing re- usual, scintillating experience one feels early frost caught many winemakers cently he will shut down his restau- when sipping a chilled glass of Eiswein. by surprise—the unreliability of its rant El Bulli in 2012 for a couple of Sweet wine is still hopelessly un- harvest has opened the door to a ma- years to revisit his approach to cook- fashionable. In Sauternes, the appella- jor competitor. ing, the state of molecular cuisine is tion to the southeast of Bordeaux, Canada now produces more Eis- once again brought to the forefront. where chateaux such as Yquem, Ray- wein (they refer to it as ice wine) To be sure, Mr. Adrià isn’t closing mond-Lafon and Rieussec produce than any other country in the world down the restaurant for lack of de- gloriously thick, heavy wines with as its winters are reliably long and mand. El Bulli continues to receive dried-fruit flavors and earthy notes, cold. Stylistically, they are a little ! " more than one million requests for they complain that “everyone loves

St. John more forward than their counter- its 8,000 reservations annually; all sweet wine but nobody buys it.” parts in Germany with more tropical ! @ ' 0 ' 1'2 * " ' '! 1 ' ' " -76A 9 1! ' 0# --666C 4 3 4 ' ' C bookings for the year are snatched Top, fennel flowers in tempura from Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli; above, roast bone Perhaps we have forgotten the fruit on the nose and a fuller flavor. '" 0## ' ' ! B ; ' %2 % '0 ' '0 -- ' ' !' '! up in one day in mid-October when marrow and parsley salad from Fergus Henderson’s restaurant St. John. delights of a glass of chilled sweet This is because unlike Germany, '% ' $ ' : $ ' 1' 5 0 ' 1' 80 reservations are opened. wine with a Roquefort salad, spiced where most ice wines are made ?' : '# , -;7;; 9 888 , 7 (" , 6.-766 $ " ) , 76.7-66 Butwillfreeze-driedfoiegrasand shrimp or steamed salmon and gin- from Riesling, in Canada they are atomized martinis establish them- The celebrity chef explains that neys,” says the author of “The Whole ger. With Eiswein the experience is made from a grape variety known as selves as a lasting trend? he is now in a “rupture period” and Beast: Nose to Tail Eating.” even more intense. The frozen Vidal. There is still limited availability Both Mr. Adrià and his British is working on developing “a new for- Somehave,however,foundamid- grapes impart a clean, pure, racy char- in Europe but Inniskillin, Jackson counterpart Heston Blumenthal, mat” in modern cuisine. “I want to dle ground. Simon Rogan, a one-star acteristic as the acidity darts down Triggs and Mission Hill are all worth have distanced themselves from the create something more beautiful,” Michelin chef and owner of the tongue, refreshing the palate. seeking out. term molecular gastronomy. In a Mr. Adrià adds without going into L’Enclume in Cumbria, in the North It’s as if the wine has imbued the Meanwhile, of the Eisweins joint statement a few years ago, to- much detail. “If I knew what it is West of England, says his restaurant anxiety and tension manifest in its made in Germany, Helmut Dönnhoff, gether with American restaurateur that I am creating, then it wouldn’t has seen “crazy times” during the production. Making Eiswein is Dr. Loosen and Weingut Künstler Grant Achatz, the chefs said: “The be new,” he explains. past, referring to his experiment fraught with difficulties. The condi- are welcome in my cellar anyday. term ‘molecular gastronomy’ For designer Rabih Hage, Mr. with chemical processes. But since doesn’t describe our cooking, or in- Santamaría’s views couldn’t be fur- the spring of 2009, Mr. Rogan took deed any style of cooking.” ther away from his own experience the conscious decision to take his Their efforts to reject the term after trying Mr. Adrià’s food twice. cooking to a more “natural form.” hasn’t deterred critics, and fans “Adrià’s cuisine is all about original- “We still use certain pieces of DRINKING NOW alike, from voicing their opinions. ity of the taste and authenticity as technology and ingredients [such as “The type of cooking that is based on an experience,” he says. “His food transglutaminase, and Xantham experimenting with chemicals to has humor; it tells you a story.” gum] in our foods, but there is less Künstler, Hölle, Riesling producemealsis merelypartof anin- HélèneDarroze,atwo-starMiche- mocking around. We are going back dustrial process in a time when peo- lin chef, who is now working at the tothefocusofbeingabletouseanin- ple are looking for quality products Connaught in London, also believes gredient in its purest form,” he says. Vintage: 2002 that have an intimate relation with Mr. Adrià’s cuisine has high-stan- “With molecular gastronomy we their surroundings, with the earth,” dard culinary merits and others weretryingtobetoocleverandwere Price: about £55 or Œ63 saidtopCatalanchef,SantiSantama- shouldn’t be too dismissive of it. “I starting to be out of touch.” ría, one of the most vocal opponents don’t know if molecular gastronomy Jun Tanaka, a British Japanese of molecular gastronomy. is here to stay or not. But even if it’s chef, thinks molecular gastronomy Alcohol content: 6.5% “The way I see it, [molecular gas- notyourownwayofcooking,thereis has acquired a poor reputation tronomy] is a byproduct of a sick so- alotofcreativityandalotofworkin- among some because of bad imita- For the uninitiated the first sip ciety,” said the three-star Michelin volved,” Ms. Darroze adds. “You tions. “To do it properly, you have to chef, who has been in the industry can’t just say that this is nothing and understand the science behind the of Eiswein can surprise, with its for almost three decades. In his it’s too chemical.” food,”saysMr.Tanaka,whoistheex- # $ # " view, those using chemicals to ex- Fergus Henderson, a chef and ecutive chef at Pearl Restaurant & scintillating acidity. This example has periment with food are just “play- founder of the St. John restaurant in Bar in London. 1/" .2! 3 ' ''A 0' 0' '! 0' '0 ('% )'# ' 1' - '0 -;2 & ing with food.” Central London, is another outcast of Butwillmoleculargastronomyde- a powerful citrus kick that gives way 0 4 '"3 ' ' " '# '0 ) " ! ' ! ' ButMr.Adriàisdismissive.“Ifyou the gastronomic movement. “My ap- fine the new generations of chefs? 0' ' )# '" 5 0 " " # " $ %! 0' ' )# '" don’t like a certain type of cuisine, proach to cooking couldn’t be more Mr. Tanaka doesn’t think so. “Chefs to a burst of stunning, fresh acidity D " E ! " , 7-.77 ' " ' " , 6.-766 ' " : F !' , 66;; +' ' ' 9'/#" , 7-;6-- then pursue your own,” he says. “At different. Once you kill an animal, the will move away from molecular gas- the end of the day, a restaurant is a gastro possibilities are huge.Thereis tronomy.Thingswillgobacktobeing with notes of honeyed apricot. ! " ! ! # "" $ !% " " " " " democraticplace.Ifyoudon’tlikethe a great deal of things you can do with more about the produce, about &' ( food they serve, then don’t go there.” a pig’s tail or head, with tripes or kid- things being natural.”

W4 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W9 v Sport v Travel The perceptions and politics of golf Stockholm’s 30,000-island smorgasbord

By J.S. Marcus YEAR AGO this month, you rible,’ but when they peeled back Sandhamn, Sweden may recall, the celebrity the layers of the onion and started NDERS ANDERSON IS in a AWeb site TMZ blew the lid asking the right questions, they good position to judge when off a major, golf-related scan- saw how this thing benefits busi- Ato visit the Stockholm Archi- dal—or so it thought. Under the ness and how it benefits the com- pelago: The economist bought his headline “Bailout Bank Blows Mil- munity.” The company attracted own small island in 2004. “I think lions Partying in L.A.,” it breath- “millions of dollars” in new busi- winter is the best time,” he says, in- lessly revealed that Northern ness as a result of last year’s vokingthe iridescentseaand reflec- Trust, despite having accepted event, Ms. Mannard said, and tive snow cover. “You have light ev- $1.6 billion in U.S. government couldn’t accommodate all the erywhere.” ticket requests it received from cli- Others might prefer the summer ents wishing to attend this year. and the 12 extra hours of daylight, Golf (Northern Trust repaid the TARP but Stockholmers and a growing JOHN PAUL NEWPORT loan last summer, providing tax- number of foreign visitors are find- payers a profit of $133 million. ingthechainof30,000islands justas The company always maintained it intriguing in winter, when outdoor Troubled Asset Relief Program never needed the funding but took saunas, ideal ice-skating, hiking and funds three months earlier, was it as a kind of confidence-building pervasive quiet more than make up entertaining clients at the PGA favor to regulators.) for the unavoidable darkness. Tour event it sponsors, the North- The Northern Trust Open’s With some islands just big ern Trust Open. Within hours, pun- mini-resurgence in a still-dicey enoughtostandonandothersnearly dits from Bill O’Reilly of Fox News economic environment may be as large as the center of Stockholm, to Maureen Dowd of the New York something of a special case. The the archipelago was once a rough Times were decrying such excess, sponsoring company’s clients, pri- andremotehometofarmersandfish- particularly the party at which marily high-net-worth individuals, ermen. Long an inspiration to Swed- Sheryl Crow sang, in a time of fi- would presumably not be the ish artists and writers, the area nancial crisis. Members of Con- types to be dissuaded from enjoy- changedinthemiddleofthelastcen- gress released letters demanding ing a golf tournament by populist tury,when tens of thousands of ordi- recourse. Golf in general, already ranting about the game’s sup- nary Swedes began to summer here. suspiciously regarded by many, posed elitist values. There is also Now, as expensive year-round was stigmatized. the matter of Jerry West, the homes replace seasonal shacks, The Northern Trust Open re- former Los Angeles Laker’s star, Stockholmersarediscoveringthear- turned this week to the Riviera now 71 but still a local hero, who ea’s off-season pleasures and prop- Country Club in Los Angeles, and agreed last spring to become the erty values are skyrocketing. guess what? Advance ticket sales event’s executive director. By all For Mr. Anderson, a 43-year-old were up 35% and hospitality sales— accounts his energetic efforts, in- Stockholmer, the archipelago is full that would be those big tents used cluding a recent publicity stunt of ABBA memories. He’s the son of for corporate entertaining—are up hitting wedge shots through one Stig Anderson, the Swedish rock im- John Kuczala 50%. The golf isn’t bad, either. Phil of the “O”s in the famous Holly- presario and the music group’s lyri- Mickelson, Padraig Harrington and wood sign, have been effective. the positive economic impact golf ures golf leaders like to trot out is rytellers: instead of golf legends, cist in its crucial early years, and he Seglarhotellet Steve Stricker are in the field. But Mr. West’s involvement has on local communities. Mr. that 70% of rounds played in the men and women whose jobs de- spent his childhood summers on “Some of the maelstrom speaks directly to one of the key West’s oft-stated motivation for U.S. are on public courses and pend on the game even if they Viggsö, a small island where many the barren outer islands are exposed old yacht club, includes a grand up- ated with the archipelago, the pio- ping ice skaters. Armed with ski around the tournament actually arguments that both the PGA Tour taking the gig, and working as that the median cost per round in themselves don’t play. He also ABBA songs were composed. In cold to rough sea winds. During a visit stairs bar with views over the wa- neer of modern drama August poles, used to test the stability of the helped it grow,” said Kelly Man- and the broader golf industry hard at it as he has, is to boost 2008 was $28. Most golfers don’t hopes to better organize the eco- winters like this one, he says, he this January, the wooded hills above ter. The hotel offers winter week- Strindberg, infuriated Kymmendö is- ice, and with long-distance skates nard, Northern Trust’s chief mar- have been making recently in the money it raises for Los Ange- wear fancy pants. nomic information about golf so takes a ferry to a nearby island Sandhamn,anupscalevillageharbor end spa packages starting at 2,245 landers after he “poorly disguised” thatstrapontohikingboots,theskat- keting officer. “People read the their stepped-up battle to counter les charities. The tournament his- But the We Are Golf initiative’s that politicians can more easily called Grinda, and enjoys making on the island of Sandön, shimmered Swedish kronor (Œ220) per person, them in a novel, says Erik Höök, se- ers usually plan their trips at the headlines and said, ‘Oh, that’s ter- the game’s perception problem: torically has channeled more than central point is that golf is respon- justify supporting the industry to the rest of the journey on foot. white; days’ worth of snowfall envel- per night (meals and spa treat- nior curator at Stockholm’s Strind- very last minute, says professional $1 million each year to Southern sible for roughly two million jobs their constituents. ABBA fans closely associate the opedtoweringevergreen trees. With ments included), and some rooms berg Museum. Another Strindberg guide Ylva Schöldberg. She leads California philanthropies, but it in the U.S. paying $61 billion in “Golf needs a seat at the table archipelago with Viggsö, where all hardly a boat to disturb them, the have saunas. There are also suites haunt, the resort of Dalarö, is reach- groups out to the archipelago during skating season, which lasts into has underperformed tournaments wages. Most of those jobs are when legislation that affects it is con- four members of the group sum- calm waters between the nearby is- and apartments. able by commuter train from Stock- early March. Conditions change, she in other cities like Dallas, which working-class. PGA-certified pro- sidered,” Mr. Marin said. “But for the mered in the 1970s. “The first ver- lands were like mirrors, and, once Sandhamn, like so many towns in holm and is a convenient place to DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES last year raised $4.4 million. Mr. fessionals at golf course typically time being we’re playing defense. sion of ‘Dancing Queen,’” recalls Mr. the archipelago, has a literary con- get a taste of the archipelago. An ex- says,evenhourtohour,dueinpartto you left the village behind, you could West wants to change that. earn in the high five-figures, Mr. cellent 62-room year-round hotel— the salt in the water—which can Perceptions that are this deeply Anderson, “was performed on a few hear only your own footsteps. nection—this one to the frequent Last week at the PGA Merchan- Steranka said, but the 40 or so rooted won’t change overnight, or pots” in the kitchen of his family’s summer visitor Stieg Larsson, the The Smådalarö Gård, situated cause the surface to melt. Falling Sandhamn, considered by many GREECE UNITED STATES dise Show in Orlando, a coalition other employees at a typical in a month, or even in a year.” summer house. late author of the “Millennium” around a restored 200-year-old through the iceisquite common, Ms. of golf organizations opened an- course—the maintenance workers, There are no significant tides in Swedes as a symbol of the area’s re- crime trilogy, which begins with manor house—offers winter week- Schöldberg says, and her backpack, cent makeover, is about two hours always filled with an entire change other front in the perception wars. the shop assistants, the cooks and theStockholm Archipelago, and only “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo.” end packages, with quayside sauna The group, called “We Are Golf,” waitresses in the grill room—earn Arbitrage from Stockholm by bus and a year- Mr. Larsson gave Mikael Blomkvist, facilities, allowing for rapid cool- of clothes, also acts as a flotation de- represents club pros, course super- much less. Then there are the lo- round ferry. Home to the Seglarho- one of the trilogy’s main characters, downs in the Baltic, as well as an out- vice. (On the Web, friluftsframjan- intendents, course owners and cal small businesses that provide tellet, a 79-room year-round hotel a summer house in the village. A col- door Jacuzzi. The January-March det.se offers information in Swedish Olympics tour and harborside spa, Sandhamn is onarchipelagoday-tripsfromStock- club managers, and aims to con- goods and services to golf league, Stockholm-based journalist packages are 2,395 kronor for two vince U.S. policy makers in Wash- courses: the painters and plumb- also the perfect base to enjoy the Kurdo Baksi, recalls that Mr. Lars- people (including some meals). holm for experienced skaters.) package for the The cold will long outlast the ington that golf is an important, ers, the beer truck drivers, the flo- islands’ unique winter atmosphere. son, who suffered from insomnia, Stockholm has had an especially darkness, as the winter daylight job-creating industry that ought to rists, vending-machine operators, More cozy than luxurious, the ho- would stay up all night in Sandhamn, cold winter this year, and on week- ! " opening ceremonies grows by around 30 minutes every be supported, not denounced. the golf-cart repairmen. tel’s hodgepodge of charming build- working on all three books at once. end winter mornings, archipelago ! #$$#% ! week. In April comes the reopening & '( &! “Right now, it’s considered politi- The golf industry first realized ings, constructed around a century- The writer most closely associ- ferrieshavebeenfilledwithday-trip- of Oaxen Krog (oaxenkrog.se), a res- " # ! ) )* cally risky to raise your hand in it had a political problem in 2005 taurant on the small island of ( ! +, - " Washington and say that you sup- when, after Hurricane Katrina dev- )! ') . Oaxen, near the chain’s southern- port the golf industry. That astated the gulf coast, golf courses most edge. Amphibious plane and !" #! $$% shouldn’t be,” said Joe Steranka, were lumped with massage par- Œ95 taxi rides are favored ways to &' (&)*&+, ' chief executive of the PGA of Amer- lors and casinos as businesses ex- reach the eatery, a bastion of sea- ica, one of the coalition partners. plicitly prohibited from receiving sonal organic cuisine and the first Golf’s politically toxic status is disaster relief funds. Golf’s power SPAIN Swedish restaurant to win a regular a long time in the making. The elite, led by PGA Tour Commis- place on the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 UNITED STATES low point, Mr. Steranka said, may sioner Tim Finchem, converged on Local Best Restaurants List, sponsored by have come during the Jack Washington in April 2008 for the City currency Œ the mineral-water concern. A few Abramoff lobbying scandals five first National Golf Day, to lobby Alamy years ago, Oaxen Krog’s owners, years ago, with widespread re- for better treatment. But when the Tokyo* ¥586,830 Œ4,639 chef Magnus Ek and his wife, Agneta ports of lavish, mostly free golf American Recovery and Reinvest- GETTING AROUND: Green, refitted an antique Dutch ca- trips to Scotland arranged for Con- ment Act, a.k.a. the stimulus bill, Rome Œ5,472 Œ5,472 Year-round ferries with terminals nal boat that now serves as one the gresspeople and staffers by the passed last year, it included most accessible by bus and commuter Paris Œ6,215 Œ6,215 archipelago’s best hostelries. subsequently convicted Mr. of the same exclusions for golf train reach most popular islands. After Christmas the restaurant Abramoff. The bad vibes surround- that the Katrina bill had. Call the tourist office at shuts down and the boat, which Frankfurt Œ6,925 Œ6,925 % ing the Northern Trust Open last “There are many members of +46-8-100-222; stays open as an inn, comes into year revived the negative image. Congress who absolutely love golf, Brussels Œ7,870 Œ7,870 on the Web, visitskargarden.se Stockholm, but the pair don’t en- “Emotions were running high be- but as of today, the industry lacks tirely abandon the archipelago. Win- cause of the economic situation. a bench of champions,” said David London £8,696 Œ9,951 HOTELS: ter is one of the best times of the year Seglarhotellet, In the heat of the moment state- Marin, a principal at the Podesta Note: Prices of a round-trip business-class air on the islands, Mr. Ek said on a sunny ! "#$ ments were made that brought Group in Washington that We Are % +46-8-574-504-00; %"" ticket to Vancouver, plus two nights at a four- January day in Stockholm’s inner har- star hotel (Feb. 11-13, per person, double occu- ! "#$#%%& back old stereotypes of golf as an Golf has hired to make its case. www.sandhamn.com. Skaters exploring the Stockholm bor. “The snow, the ice, the calm- pancy) and opening-ceremony ticket, plus taxes, &'( ) ) )*( !"# $ " % &! & !'"()*' elitist undertaking, but nothing Mr. Marin said the strategy will as provided by agents in each city, averaged and Smådalarö Gård, Archipelago; top, the beach at ness,” he said. “It’s so beautiful.” + +, - could be farther from the truth,” focus on “changing the narrative” converted into euros. % +46-8-501-551-00; Sandhamn; right, Seglarhotellet. —J.S. Marcus is a writer * Opening-ceremony ticket not included. said Mr. Steranka. Among the fig- about golf by introducing new sto- Icon Sports Media Inc. www.sjonaramoten.se/smadalaro based in Berlin. Staffan Dahlstrom

W8 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W5 v Art

Left, Asher Edelman in his home in New York with art he is selling; above ‘Untitled (Two Women),’ (c. 1955) by Willem de Kooning; right, ‘Widow’s Watch’ (1995) by George Condo.

paper, say. Auction houses have traditionally first guarantees by May. focused on guaranteeing their sales’ big-ticket “I used to do options conversions tables as a lots, which are most likely to be bid up. Mr. kid,” he says. “So anyone who competes with me Edelman says that smaller-ticket items repre- on this has to know I’ll take it to the razor’s edge.” sent an untapped market—opening up many Mr.EdelmanhassetupshopintheNewYork more potential clients to him—and he expects Upper East Side brownstone he shares with his to profit from the greater volume of works. wife,Michelle,andtheyoungestofhisfourchil- Some in the art world say the plan has the dren. The setting is cozier than the black-lac- potential to lubricate the entire market by con- quered corner office in Manhattan where he vincing more collectors to funnel art into auc- spentthe1980sbuyingandbreakingupcompa- tions without fear that their pieces will go un- nies ranging from Canal-Randolph to technol- sold and lose value. “Businesses like Asher’s ogy companies like Telex and Datapoint. Art, could be tapping into a new leverage business thenasnow,popsupeverywhere.Hehashunga based on a potential collateral pool worth red and orange abstract by Peter Halley in his tens of billions,” says Marc Porter, Christie’s double-height dining room and positioned a chairman. The plan is also creating some con- Greekmarblegravestonefragmentintheliving troversy in the art world. Auction houses dis- room beneath a silvery cardboardwall relief by close in their catalogs when they’ve provided Frank Stella. He also runs a gallery out of his Ethan Hill for the Wall Street Journal a guarantee for a particular work, because home, Edelman Arts, where he shows artists ust before the most prestigious U.S. artworks if their loans aren’t repaid. they have a stake in its sale—in a sense, they like Jackson Pollock. art fair, Art Basel Miami Beach, These lenders provide some much-needed are partial owners. Gmurzynska isn’t the first business part- opened in December, an energetic liquidity in a market where art values have But there is no disclosure process for a ner he has dueled with over matters of art and 70-year-old man named Asher Edel- plunged and credit has stalled in the past year. work that has been privately guaranteed, and money. When a gallery he ran with dealer J man marched through the local con- But this arena can be bare-knuckled, with inter- Mr. Edelman says he wouldn’t rule out bidding Heidi Neuhoff went bankrupt a year ago and vention center to the booth of a Zur- est rates on one-year loans sometimes topping on a work he had guaranteed if a client other the court needed to divide their assets, Mr. The art ich gallery. He was accompanied by a dozen 20% and defaulted payments sometimes lead- than the seller asked him to buy it. Collectors Edelman, through his lawyer, told U.S. bank- U.S. marshals. As onlookers whispered, the ing to public court battles—as was the case last could wind up bidding against him, not realiz- ruptcy court judge James Peck that he sus- marshals seized four paintings by Yves Klein, year when New York-based Art Capital Group ing that he stands to profit from the piece sell- pected Ms. Neuhoff of hiding gallery assets Fernand Léger, Joan Miró and Edgar Degas sued photographer Annie Leibovitz for default- ing well. Mr. Edelman says that he wouldn’t that should be used to pay off creditors, ac- worth around $15 million (Œ10.75 million). ing on her $24 million loan. The two sides later bid up a work simply to inflate the sale price. cording to court transcripts. Ms. Neuhoff de- Mr. Edelman goes to great lengths to pro- reached an agreement to extend the loan. Rival lenders say Mr. Edelman should dis- nied any wrongdoing. When Mr. Edelman’s tect his art interests. He had gotten a U.S. fed- Mr. Edelman is a new player in the field of close which works he may be staking and also lawyer pressed the matter in court again last eral court order to confiscate the Zurich gal- art finance, but his plans are ambitious and his bidding on. Disclosure would help to “keep the spring, court transcripts state that Judge of the sell Edelman Arts (2) lery’s inventory as potential compensation for brash approach is drawing attention in the playing field even,” says Andrew Rose, presi- Peck said Mr. Edelman’s claim appeared to be a$750,000RobertRyman paintingthatthegal- tight-knit art world. Going beyond art lending, “motivated by pure vindic- well. “The sophisticated part of Gekko, his shows featuring work by Robert Mappletho- Asher Edelman, a former corporate raider, lery, called Gmurzynska, had borrowed from he says he intends to stake money on artworks tiveness.” Mr. Edelman home and the auctions and that veneer of cul- rpe, Damien Hirst and Matthew Barney. Mr. him and, he says, accidentally damaged. bound for auction, a niche only a few finan- says he didn’t act out of ture—I modeled all that on Edelman,” Mr. Edelman says he helped fund the museum by is shaking up the market with brash tactics Within 48 hours, Mr. Edelman got his ciers have even explored. ‘Asher has unusual tactics, but he spite. Ms. Neuhoff has Weiser said. Director Oliver Stone and actor auctioning off a third of his art collection, in- money and the gallery got back its art. Peter R. Before the recession, Sotheby’s and since paid off her portion Michael Douglas also shadowed Mr. Edelman cluding a $3 million Jasper Johns. Stern, a lawyer for Gmurzynska, says that the Christie’s routinely secured commissions to gets it done,’ an art dealer says. of the debts in the bank- at work when preparing for the film. SincehisreturntotheU.S.in2001,Mr.Edel- BY KELLY CROW gallery’s insurer had been in the process of dis- auction works using a financial bet called a ruptcy case, according to Mr. Edelman’s life took a turn the same manhas operated two galleries; Edelman Arts, puting the claim for the damage and the gal- guarantee: The house would promise to pay a court documents; Mr. Edel- year the movie was released, when he, to- opened in 2008, is the latest. Mr. Edelman is lery didn’t know that a court order had been seller an agreed-upon price for an art work un- dent ofArt FinancePartners,so that collectors man’s bankruptcy case is still proceeding. gether with the Montreal-based Dominion joining a rare segment of the art industry—art issued for the work in the meantime. “Asher less bidders offered more. In exchange, the know when a rival bidder is also a seller with a Born in 1939 in New York, Mr. Edelman Textile Inc., made a bid to take over the textile financing—that hasn’t slowed down. Art Capi- uses unusual tactics, but he gets it done,” Bar- house got a sizable chunk—up to 40%—of any vestedinterest. Mr.Edelmansays hisidea isle- split his childhood between the wealthy sub- group Burlington Industries Inc. In an unprec- tal Group expects to dole out as much as $300 rett White, director of New York gallery added profits if the winning bidder paid more gal, doesn’t require any public disclosure and urbs of Long Island and the Las Vegas Strip edented ruling, a federal judge in Greensboro, million worth of new art-backed loans this Haunch of Venison, says of the incident. than the guaranteed price. could benefit the entire market by convincing where his father owned real estate. His intro- N.C., halted the takeover, ruling that a former year, up from $120 million last year and $60 Mr. Edelman, the former corporate raider By the time art prices reached their peak in more collectors to trade works. duction to art came through monographs of Burlington executive had probably passed con- million five years ago. Citi Private Bank said its who helped inspire the character of Gordon 2007, some auctioneers had guarantees on up Marc-André Renold, the director of the Art- Impressionist and Old Master artists that he fidential financial data to the bidders. Mr. top clients also increased their borrowing Gekko in the 1987 film “Wall Street,” has taken to half the works in their priciest sales of mod- Law Centre at the University of Geneva, says bought at age 12 and still keeps in his library. Edelman denied that he had done anything against their collections to as much as $100 up a new position: art financier. After navigat- ern and contemporary art. When the crisis hit that offering to guarantee works across a range After college, Mr. Edelman worked at Carter wrong and was never charged with insider million last year, up from a typical maximum ing the art world for decades as a collector, mu- just over a year ago, Christie’s and Sotheby’s of lower prices and qualities is “a risky ven- Berlind Potoma & Weill, an investment bank. trading, but the takeover was blocked. loan of $20 million a decade earlier. seum director and gallery owner, Mr. Edelman lost a combined $63 million from guaranteed ture.” To succeed, Mr. Edelman will need a In 1969, he struck out on his own and began to In another case, the U.S. Securities and Ex- Mr. Edelman, seeing an opportunity, says recently set up his own firm, Art Assured Ltd., art that went unsold. Today, the auction-house steady supply of cash to cover his bets. And if he scour for sagging companies, proposing ways change Commission complained that he he began approaching investors last fall about to arrange art investments. guarantee has all but disappeared, the auction has to step in and buy art that he’s guaranteed, to boost their value by selling off their less hadn’t divulged his growing stake in another starting his own art-financing firm. Unlike the The field of art backing is a financial Wild houses say, though a handful of dealers will oc- he’ll have to find a way to offload those same profitable parts. By the 1980s, he was consid- company, Datapoint, quickly enough. He set- other firms already in the art-financing arena, West these days. When the recession upended casionally stake a single painting at auction. pieces in the private marketplace—offering ered a pioneer of leveraged buyouts, acquiring tled the matter without admitting or denying he plans to make private guarantees on auc- the art market a year ago, a number of tradi- Mr. Edelman plans to step into that void. goods that have already been widely shopped. companies largely through borrowed money. wrongdoing by paying the commission tioned works a centerpiece of his business. tional institutions like banks and auction When a seller consigns a work to auction, Mr. Mr. Edelman says he can’t discuss the par- He also began cultivating his passion for art. around $484,000. In 1988, he resettled in Swit- Mr. Edelman’s confidence in the art market houses pulled back from loans and other fi- Edelman’s firm, Art Assure, will pledge to buy ticulars of his financing while he’s still secur- Art dealer Mary Boone says Mr. Edelman’s zerland, because he had “virtually given up on is unflappable. Some of his ideas filter into the nancing deals based on the expected selling the piece if it doesn’t sell for an agreed-upon ing investors, but people familiar with the chauffeur-driven Jeep was regularly spotted Wall Street,” he says. memosheregularly sendsto 3,000finance and prices of fine art. An aggressive set of bou- minimum price. In exchange, the seller will matter say his new firm has raised $12 million outside SoHo galleries in the mid-1980s. It was in Lausanne on the shores of Lake Lé- art mavens. In a January memo last year, he tique lenders and financiers have stepped in to pay the firm a fee of about 5% to 10% of the from American and Swiss investors and hopes When Stanley Weiser, the screenwriter of man, that Mr. Edelman realized he could re- wrote, “Art, like gold, has an intrinsic value.…I fill the gap. The most prominent art lenders op- work’s guaranteed price. to double its backing by year’s end. Moreover, Oliver Stone’s “Wall Street,” caught a glimpse align his career in the art world. He rented an cannot identify a time in modern history that erate as blue-chip pawnshops, doling out Unlike the auction houses, Mr. Edelman Mr. Edelman says he hopes to offset some of of Mr. Edelman’s living quarters in a magazine empty dye factory and hired a local curator, has not served as a store of value when no oth- quick cash to collectors, dealers and artists in says he is willing to stake a vast array of lower- his risk by asking a bank to cover part of his in the 1980s, he retooled his script so that the Chantal Prod’Hom, and for the next five years ers have been available or sustainable.” exchange for the right to sell the borrowers’ priced objects—a $55,000 Modernist work on stake. Mr. Edelman plans to roll out the firm’s 1987 film’s corporate raider collected art as his Museum of Contemporary Art produced —James Oberman contributed to this article.

W6 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W7 v Art

Left, Asher Edelman in his home in New York with art he is selling; above ‘Untitled (Two Women),’ (c. 1955) by Willem de Kooning; right, ‘Widow’s Watch’ (1995) by George Condo.

W6 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W7 v Sport v Travel The perceptions and politics of golf Stockholm’s 30,000-island smorgasbord

W8 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W5 v Food & Wine A frosty night for Eiswein OR ERNST LOOSEN the call tions have to be just right and the Fcame at 3 a.m. “It was my chief temperature has to fall to as low as The state of molecular cuisine viticulturalist,” says one of Germa- minus 8 Celsius, which means that in ny’s most talked about winemakers. Germany, it can’t be made every year. “We knew from the forecast that the The process is relatively straight- frost was coming, but that night the forward. After the main harvest a temperature had dropped suffi- small percentage of Riesling grapes ciently. ‘This is it,’ he told me on the are left on the vine until they shrivel phone. ‘We start picking in an hour.’” into small parcels of soggy, brown mush. Then the waiting game begins. Long-range weather forecasts will be '/ 0 1 '2 ' ! + ' # % ! 9' 5 0 ' ' '#' % Wine studied and lucky charms consulted ! !"# $% & ' ' ' 3 '0 0 4 ' ' 0' ! (8 ' " 30 5' " while the winemakers sit patiently, ' ' " (() 5 0 5 0 5 0 WILL LYONS waiting for the temperature to reach * + , -.-. ( 0#' , 6.-766 ' " ' " , 6.-766 1 , 6.-766 the right level. What the winemakers By 4 a.m. on Dec. 17, Mr. Loosen are hoping for is a punishing frost to had raised his team of pickers. Their freeze the grapes. As a rule of destination was Erdener Prälat, a thumb, the colder the temperature south-facing vineyard planted on a during the harvest, the higher the fi- step of red slate soil whose vines nal sugar concentration can be ob- stretch steeply down toward the tained at pressing. As water freezes banks of the Mosel in Germany. at a higher temperature than grape Together, under the artificial juice it encapsulates the golden, glow of generator-powered lights, sweet goo into a frozen pellet. the team agloves to avoid frostbite Once picked, the frozen grapes and clutching secateurs they began are transported to the winery harvesting the compact bunches of where they are gently pressed. The tiny, frozen Riesling grapes. By 10 sweet juice, high in sugar and acid- a.m. they had finished. By that time, ity, is then run off and fermented. Mr. Loosen admitted, it had become Fortunately, 2009 for the Mosel, as for most wine-growing regions too foggy to continue and the temperature wasn’t cold enough. throughout Europe, is shaping up to El Bulli be a very good year. <'*' )' = 1' ' ' - > ' .7 43 1' 0' 14 " 0 '3 0% 5 ! ' ' If you have ever wondered why “It was really a great Eiswein har- ' ' ' 3 # " # ' 0 . '0 '" !' )'" '0 # 0 By Javier Espinoza the price of vintage Eiswein can cost vest because we got just the right : '# ' ' 1' !'! 8 '0 ( ' #' ' 1' (! ' " )# '" 5 0 OR YEARS, so-called molecu- as much as £50 for a small bottle— mix of frost and temperature,” says + " 9 0 , 6.67; ' #' , 6-;7 ?' ? , 67-7 ' " ' " , 6.-766 lar gastronomy, an avant- now you know. Welcome to Germa- Mr. Loosen. “For me the perfect Eis- garde culinary movement ny’s Eiswein harvest of 2009, where F wein is always harvested before best known for its gels and emul- picking starts in the middle of the Christmas and this year everything night at temperatures around minus 9 sions and its wild chemical experi- worked out perfectly.” Celsius. This is winemaking in the ex- ments with food, has teased the pal- Despite Germany’s historical as- ates of diners. treme, where the effort that goes into sociation with Eiswein—it is said the With Spain’s Ferran Adrià—often making it probably justifies its eye-wa- technique was discovered in its val- regarded as the founding father of teringly high price. That, and the un- leys in the late 18th century after an the movement—announcing re- usual, scintillating experience one feels early frost caught many winemakers cently he will shut down his restau- when sipping a chilled glass of Eiswein. by surprise—the unreliability of its rant El Bulli in 2012 for a couple of Sweet wine is still hopelessly un- harvest has opened the door to a ma- years to revisit his approach to cook- fashionable. In Sauternes, the appella- jor competitor. ing, the state of molecular cuisine is tion to the southeast of Bordeaux, Canada now produces more Eis- once again brought to the forefront. where chateaux such as Yquem, Ray- wein (they refer to it as ice wine) To be sure, Mr. Adrià isn’t closing mond-Lafon and Rieussec produce than any other country in the world down the restaurant for lack of de- gloriously thick, heavy wines with as its winters are reliably long and mand. El Bulli continues to receive dried-fruit flavors and earthy notes, cold. Stylistically, they are a little ! " more than one million requests for they complain that “everyone loves

W4 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W9 v Top Picks v Fashion

W10 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W3 v Books

Business Bookshelf / By Philip Delves Broughton Contents 7 A ‘Rye’ By 3 | Fashion 6-7 | Cover story Art 10 | Top Picks More Than A Paycheck Any Other

El Bulli ment is over, that the tyranny of own, and spend a lot of time think- ees clock in and nies as large as times, of course, straightforward, organizational charts and spread- ing about the purpose of their out, attend com- Google and 3M self-explanatory titles are the most sheets is behind us, and that we work. Science, Mr. Pink says, has pulsory meet- have similar effective. Shakespeare never put a What’s in a name? are now entering more sun- shown that we are motivated as ings, and receive programs that line wrong, when he named his splashed climes, where creativity much intrinsically, by the sheer pay for perform- have produced plays, and Dickens didn’t do badly flourishes and businesses treat em- joy and purpose of certain activi- ance are de-moti- everything either, when he plumped simply for 12 | Time Off ployees as human beings, not ma- ties, as extrinsically, by rewards vating through from Google “Oliver Twist.” No book could be chine parts. like pay raises and promotions. excessive con- News to the more graphically introduced than Ethan Hill for The Wall Street Journal Street Ethan Hill for The Wall Alphabet soup of El Bulli Asher Edelman with Edouard Manet’s ‘Berthe Morisot on a Divan’ It is a message we would all The science that Mr. Pink is re- trol. What they Post-It note. the book of the Apocrypha titled love to believe. With “Drive: The ferring to rests largely on the should be doing, Relatedly, simply The Rest of Esther. t Our arts and Surprising Truth About What Moti- work of Edward Deci and Richard he argues, is giving workers the Best Buy has implemented a “re- But sometimes the more ob- COVER, Asher Edelman in front of vates Us,” Mr. Pink tries to jolly us Ryan at the University of Roches- chance to do their best work by sults oriented work environment” scure or enigmatic the title, the bet- Wine: A frosty night for Eiswein James Nares’ ‘Ride the Ride,’ (2000). culture calendar all along toward accepting it. He ter and Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi at granting them more autonomy and at its corporate headquarters in ter it is remembered. When Alex- Photograph by Ethan Hill for The Wall Street Journal. sets up the following history. First Claremont Graduate University. helping them to achieve the mas- Richfield, Minn., to improve mo- ander Kinglake called his ultimate 5 | Travel came Motivation 1.0, during which These three researchers have tery that may come with it. rale and lower turnover. This masterpiece of travel writing

W2 Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, February 5 - 7, 2010 W11 FRIDAY-SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 5-7, 2010