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.- ADDENDUM FOR N SCALE VERSION OF COON GAP SAWMill HIT # 85N

This kit was designed by MASTER CREATIONS and is produced under license by REPUBliC lOCOMOTWE WORKS in N Scale only. It was designed using AutoCAD for HO scale, with no thought whatsoever for producing an N Scale version. Many parts are very small in HO and thus incredibly small in N Scale. In a few cases I used the HO parts. The parts included in this kit are my best effort to represent a scale sawmill in N Scale.

There are many differences between your kit and the. HO version. The following are a listing of the diHerences that I know of, there may be more. 1 1. 1he Confirmation card with your serial number has been eliminated. Your serial number appears on page 2 of the instruction manual.

2. This is a limited run kit with about 150 being produced. Forty of the kits are the "Silver Edition", sound and lights. The HO run is around 675 total kits.

3. MASTER CREATIONS does not list the parts in their kits and RLW has adopted their policy. RLW would like you to thoroughly examine the contents of this kit, carefully reading this addendum and the instruction manual. If at this point, or at any time later during construction you think there is a part or sheet missing, contact me for a free replacement. Please send $1.00 for postage. This replacement policy extends to parts or sheets lost or broken by you.

4. There are many brass casting in the HO version not found in this kit. The N Scale version has just a few brass castings.

5. The HO version has the construction pictures in the back of the manual in color. The cost is prohibitive in the N version. If you want those last 8 pages in color the cost is $1 0 /set with an order or $12 without an order. Compare the price you paid for this kit and the $275 for the standard version of the HO kit and you will quickly realize why I have not included color pictures.

6. Wood thickness: In previous kits that I have produced, the HO kit was done in 1/16" thick basswood so I did my kit in 1132" thick basswood. However in this kit there are many sheets of 3132" basswood in the HO kit which have noN Scale equivalent. I have used 1116" basswood so some trimming may be required. Nearly all this "thick" wood is used for structural support so It will not present a problem.

7. The instructions for the Silver Edition kits say to install the speaker inside the loading building· this is not possible in the N Scale version. Install it under the sawmill and drill holes to allow the sounds to come through. a. The Boiler house base is made from urethane not plaster. It is also without the stone steps. I felt this would not be prototypical. You will have to fashion your own steps, ladder or walkway to get to the doors. The cast base mentioned in step 64 smoke generator drawings is not white metal, but rather it is cast right into the urethane base. I thought this would be more practical.

9. The smoke stacks and smoke generators: The diameter of the smoke stacks are larger than I would like but must be big enough to accommodate the smoke generators. 1he smoke generators must be installed near the top of the stacks, so you can easily fill the tubes with liquid smoke(not included). Uquid smoke can be purchased at any hobby shop. A word of advice-do not fill the smoke generators full. Use an eyedropper amount only, put a small amount otherwise it will take a long time for the liquid to boil and smoke. The heat shrink tubing mentioned in step 69 is not necessary, will melt and is not included. Use the Teflon tube for this purpose. Ream out the holes In the Boilerhouse roof to accommodate the larger diam~ter of the smoke stack.

1 0. The Grandt line NBW(nut,bolt,wosher) and bolt plates are not included in this kit. If you wish to simulate this detail purchase 3/4" or 1" Grandt line NBW from you hobby store or use small bits of wire.

11. The Band Sow: some of the parts are too small to cast in white metal so they are cut from 0.01 0 styrene. There is a small roller on each side of the band saw blade which is used to carry the sawn lumber on and off the bandsaw. You will need to cut this from 0.022 diameter brass rod (supplied). Cut 2 pieces 0.13 inches long. Use one of the smallest wheels on sheet "0" for the hand wheel.(view "D" on the saw main body). The dot below the hand wheel is the control lever. Fashion this by placing a drop of superglue on the end of+/- 1/16" length of bell wire.

12. The Corith Resow: The sides, rollers and bottom brace are cast in white metal, the tubular parts cut for 0.015 brass wire long. All the white metal rollers in your kit are smooth. The knurled rollers (bottom larger rollers) can be knurled by scribing grooves lengthwise with your exocto knife. The drive wheels will be found on sheet "0", there are many more wheels supplied than needed. The top rail is to be found on the 0.010 styrene sheet.

13. The Howell saw carriage: In step 114, use the supplied orange magnet wire for both the axles and the wire between the head blocks and set works. Code 40 rail is supplied in your kit, cut in 2.

14. The Swing Cut off Saw: U5e the 5upplied orange magnet wire for the 0.028 wire mentioned in step 116. The supports, If not supplied in white metal will have to be fabricated from wire in your kit. Those supports are shown in figure B and D in step 116. The drive pulleys are white metal and are small. The counterweight show in figures 8 and D must be fabricated by cutting off a very short piece of 0.022 wire and gluing it to a piece of magnet wire. Attach as shown.

15. Transfer table: use Magnet wire for the 0.020 wire mentioned in step 119.

16. You .w.ill....ruU find the following in this kit: Grandt line lamp shades, etched hlnges(they are laser cut from 651b paper), and many small brass casting for door knobs, tea cup, coffee pots etc. as are supplied in the HO kit.

17. Unfortunately the 0.002 stainless steel etching of saw blades, and another etching of small tools did not arrive in time to get in the first kits shipped. If these etchings are not in your kit, send in the enclosed certificate for your copies.

This kit begs to be animated if you are into that sort of thing. With all the scale machinery the possibilities are endless.

Enjoy you sawmill kit. Construct it in sub-assemblies that will all be put together later. Imagine each sub-assembly project as a separate kil Do not try to do to much at once. Producing o superdetailed sawmill in N Scale is the closest thing to insanity that I know. Actually assembling it will bring you one step closer to joining me at the funny farm!

Nov. 1996 Marshall "GOOD Gap S!JWf))iff" Kit' # B5 (80), P. 1

?!. Failure to read and follow the directions in this John T. and Tall worked like a team over the next two ,,. , instruction set may result in painting yourself into years building up the firm. They had a 3' gauge railway - a comer. Before beginning any kit of this size you constructed to haul the timber to the old Sierra flume as the should read All the instructions through once. We logging operations expanded. The railroad and expanded . ' suggest you do this now. operations soon proved to be too much for the old Sierra sawmill to handle. Hence, plans were made for a new sawmill 1 at Coon Gap. SKIEF HISTORY Construction on the sawmill was begun in 1895. The new mill was to be up and running for the 1886Iogging season. John T. McCabe senior founded his Yet, that did not happen! logging concern in the 1880's from the rem­ J. "Knife" Randall, one of the meanest and orneriest nants of the defunct Sierra Gulch Lumber curs west ofDenver was hired by the Zink brothers ofthe Lynx Company. Creek Lumber Company to do in Tall Jones and his boss John The Sierra Gulch firm had failed due T. McCabe. The Zink brothers never got over the loss of Tall to under capitalization and lack of additional Jones from their outfit. Knife was a real ruffian and pretty readily accessible timber stands. John T. dis­ loose with his blue language mouth in town! covered the opportunity one day in a local saloon. It seems the Long about sundown on September the 15th, Knife plight of the Sierra Gulch firm was the topic among many of Vfas :seen riding out of town towards Coon Gap. Later that the local loggers. Mostly, the men seemed to be lamenting the night the new partially complete Coon Gap sawmill burned to good grub that they got while working for the outfit. The best the ground. Tall was found shot twice in the back and John T. in food often made a large difference to loggers! McCabe was found beaten and thrown into a nearby ravine John T. made a bee line to the local bank upon left for dead. Several other men in the employ of the McCabe hearing of the situation. He felt it was worth some serious Lumber Company were also found dead. investigation. The bank president eagerly ushered John T. into A posse was quickly gathered by Sheriff Tupper at his office upon hearing of his interest in the Sierra Gulch town. They set out after Knife around 6 am. Shortly after noon Lumber Company. You see, the bank had lent significant on the 16th Sheriff Tupper returned with Knife, a dead man funds to the Sierra outfit and was in a bad position when Sierra identified as Andy Amey-the notorious "kid" murderer, and went belly up. H. H. Nitchke, a card shark and sometimes gunman. John T. inquired, "Are there other timber lands avail­ On the way back to town H.H. Nitchke spilled the able adjacent to the Sierra property?" beans on the Zink brothers. Tupper made plans to arrest them "Certainly", replied Phineas Wilhoit, the bankpresi- upon his arrival back in town. When the posse arrived in town dent. and the Zink brothers heard the news, they took the cowards .. Can you give me the particulars on purchasing the way out by committing suicide before Tupper could appre­ Sierra property and the adjacent lands that are available?" hend them. "Yes, I have a map detailing the properties right Tupper guaranteed the men a fair trial, but they were here." as good as dead anyway. Both John T. McCabe and Tall Jones They proceeded to study the map and talk terms the survived and identified their assailants at the trial. Justice was remainder of the afternoon. John T. easily had sufficient funds swift On October the 31st, 1895, J. "Knife" Randall and H. for the purchase from his previous investments in lumbering H. Nitchke were hung until dead in the center of town. operations in the east. He had come out west where he felt the It is rumored by the local wags that Knife and his real future for a lumber man was. cohorts were so reviled for this crime and others they were Two weeks later, the McCabe Lumber Company believed to have committed, that the undertaker had to bury reopened the Sierra Lumber Company sawmill under its name them in unmarked graves at night out of town. It seems these with "Tall" Jones as general manager. Tall was one of John men were considered unfit for boot hill! T. 's first acquaintances after he left the bank. It seems Tall had John T. McCabe went on to build the new Coon Gap had enough of another outfit in the area and was looking for sawmill and prospered mightily. He made Tall Jones a partner work. John T. investigated the situation and found that the for his devotion and hard work. Tall, however, declined to Lynx Creek Lumber Company, where Tall had worked, was have his name added to the business in reverence for his long known for cheating everyone in the outfit. They had a tum over time boss and friend, John T. in men which was amazing! Tall, however, came highly recommended by all the local crowd. Any similarity to persons living or dead is purely coincidenral.

© 1996 by Master ereations "Goon Gap .sawtnilf"

ln~r Odl.lC~iOfJ the size of parts slightly. Obviously, our Ari­ zona climate is very dry under normal condi­ tions, whereas a Florida climate is quite moist. Much of the information at the beginning of Hence, you can expect these variations to po­ this kit references questions by our customers tentially slightly show up during construction over our years in this business. Each heading of this model. Take th is into account when does contain important information. Hope­ assembling the model. fully, answers to general questions concerning the contents· of this kit, its assembly and our guarantees are covered to your full understanding. None of this standard Gl.larantee information is provided to be anything intimidating, but rather to help you better understand the product you have purchased. All products, except products covered on sepa­ Relax ~nd have fun! rate guarantees by their manufacturers or items covered under Master ereationsTM Electronic serial Nl.ltnber Components Guarantee, are guaranteed against defects in manufacturing as determined by Master ereations™. We will replace said This kit as all of our limited run laser-cut C£0 items or the entire kit if necessary. Returns must have a return kits, ha~ been assigned a serial number. ' . 121 authorization number. Under no circumstances will warranty However, you do not have to register this _ service be extended to a kit which is not registered with Master kit! If you need a missing part, or desire ereationsTM. to be on our mailing list for free, then drop us your name, complete address and your kit's serial number via~ or FAX Efec~rornc Gomponen~s Gl.laran~ee W. Your serial# is 0

·0" _ -~"f' The following guarantee cover~ only electronic k.i~? Wbat iS an enaineered 1 ~ \ components as defined herem. Master erea- \· . tions™ standard guarantee covers all other An engineered kit is a kit designed as a cohesive '11/1\ items unless said item is warranted separately entity. We designed this kit from start to finish --.. by its manufacturer. using a professional quality computer aided de­ ~ sign program. Virtually all the pieces of this kit All wires, electronic components, motors and lights are guar­ have been influenced by this design process. Each anteed against defects in manufacture for 2 years. Incorrect piece has been designed and tested to mate very usage of any item, modification of any item or any customer­ l accurately with the other pieces in this kit. Very caused damage to an item will void this warranty. It is at the little trimming or cleanup work is required to assemble the sole discretion of Master ereations™ or its assignees as to any finished model. The accuracy of laser cut pans are so precise manufacturing defect. It shall be at Master ereationsTM discre­ that misfitting parts are an effective indication that you have tion as to repair or replacement of any determined defective erred in assembly. item. Contact Master ereationsTM directly for instructions prior to returning anything for warranty service. Returns for war­ This same process allows us to eliminate a large number of ranty service are not available without a return authorization traditional metal castings from this kit. Yet, we have not number issued by Master ereationsT~ . sacrificed any of the detail you would expect in a kit such as this. We have, in fact, increased the level of detail in this kit Items which are customer damaged or out of warranty can be far beyond the detail level offered by any other manufacturer. serviced under most circumstances. Contact Master erea­ Many items, such as corbels, would have been produced in tions™ for instructions prior to sending any item to Master metal if we did not have our own laser cutting system. ereations™. Services out of warranty or items out of warranty as prescribed above will entai l charges as determined by Rtmospf?eric conditions Masterereations™. Service return items are only accepted with a return authorization number. Under no circumstances will Wood and paper products are effectively live materials. This warranty service be extended to a kit which is not registered is to say that humidity and temperature changes will change with Master ereations™. "COOO Gap 5aWfllifl" Kif" # B5 (fj0), P. ?

End user Joforrnaf"ioo rJr Sample notation format.

This kit is not intended for use by individuals Before you do the procedures listed in a given set of instruc­ · under the age of 18 without the supervision of tions, be sure to read that set of instructions to familiarize an adult. Additionally, the user assumes all yourself with the steps involved. You will find that a box liability regarding the proper use of this prod­ precedes each step. After completing a given step place a uct or any product suggested herein. The user check mark in this box to denote that you have completed that must familiarize himself/herself with all in­ step. Some procedures are explained only once. We may at structions herein and instructions on any product used to times refer you to a past section of instructions if you need to complete this kit. Read and follow all safety procedures for review that section for a current step. any product used to finish this kit. You will find that each group of instructions is nearly always related to an illustration, diagram or photograph. This greatly clarifies the instruction manual and hence the assembly of the model. The instruction manual in this kit follows a new format for our limited run kits. If you have However, it is still possible t~at you may misunderstand even previously built a Master ereations' kit you will our best effort~ in writing this' instruction manual. If you do recognize the ./ Cl placed before each step. not understand a given instruction or set of instructions, please However, we now are able to have the program follow this simple four step procedure: we use in creating our instruction manuals se­ quentially number assembly steps. You will find that each (1) Reread the instruction passage you do not understand. actual assembly step is preceded by a step number on the line above it. The steps are sequentially numbered from the begin­ (2) Study the accompanying photograph, diagram or illustra­ ning of the manual to the end of the manual. Other changes tion. have been made to try to make our instructions easier to follow. Obviously, the format of the instruction manual has been (3) Examine the parts referenced in the passage. enlarged. This change allows us to keep pertinent photos and drawings closer to the given instruction step which references (4) If you are still uncertain about what to do, write us note them. explaining the difficulty and we will try to solve the problem for you. Remember, there is no better source than Master We also constantly try to strive for perfection in our instruction ereation&TM for thiS technical aSSiStanCe, beCaUSe We have bUiJt manuals. However, we know that that is goal is unattainable. the same kit you are building. Simply, because we are human we are not perfect. It is also quite true that it is impossible to write something which every cJr FAX V:;ervice for queBtionB i:; available by faxing to modeler who assembles this kit will understand at all times. (520) 778-7448. This truism is something we have learned over the years. When 98 out of I 00 modelers understand a given step, but that same step was Greek to the other 2 modelers what do you do? The Locaf:'ina Parts facts are that since our personal background, language and ages are different, it is impossible to write a perfect set of This kit features an open format parts numbering instructions for a relatively complex model such as this. How­ system. Part numbers or part locations are de­ ever, we will continue to try and improve our instructions with noted in the text and the drawings. Many parts the ultimate goal of perfection in mind. are visually identified in the drawings. Sheet citations for given part locations are given as Located throughout the instruction book are notations which needed. Some numbers may have a"-" in them and some may are now easily identifiable and quick to read. Each notation is carry 2 letters. Since, we are developing a library of designed some bit of knowledge which is of immediate importance to parts you will find these variations. Some parts do not carry a the construction of this kit. All notations follow the this sample part number due to their sheer individuality. format computer with ROM programming. This computer runs a cJr When parts are identical, only one part may be num­ bered when a multiple of the same part is provided. series of 16 separate animation and/or lighting channels, a programmable fast clock and includes full 24 hour fast clock sequence sound! You may, if you wish, omit these features Drop O~.Jt'S when you build the model. However, no knowledge of any­ thing other than basic soldering skills to attach a few wires will This kit includes a number of laser-cut sheets. be necessary. We have already done all the hard work for you! You will find that these sheets are engineered to During the course of construction we will cover all the steps include drop buts. These parts are not fastened involved in installing and using these enhancements on your into the sheers by tabs. They are not necessary to model construct the model. Drop outs are, in fact, waste components which may or may not fall out prior GirC~.Jit- Boards to the packing of a given sheet. Do not be concerned if some of these parts are missing from your sheets. Standard kits 6 Light Circuit Board roofs include a small circuit board to r- riRST LIGHT TC ACTIVATE

drive the light­ ..oO nO ,.o ("') 0 tuO - 0 A.o QQ. -'o -'o -'o -'o -'o -'o SRI a· Pet ing system. 0 0 . ) During construction of this kit you will poten­ loo oooo oo!SJP2 M +1:] J-- .j / tially need the following listed tools: This c ircuit 5ooo!ooo ~ooooooo ~ board controls ? I ~ l c1~ 1' E3 0000000 0000000 0 Go0 0 HO scale rule, several fine tooth files, box of 6 lights. Each lo o o o o o o o o o!o~o 0 /J SIP! Rl o /./ toothpicks, 600 grit sandpaper, extra fine tooth of the lights razor saw, tweezers, needle-nosed pliers, stand­ turns on at ~TO TR ...... SlSTCR - ard wire cutter, pencil, assorted paint brushes, glue, paints (listed in index), modelers knife with #11 blades, solder, CPU Boa rd soldering iron, paper towels and masking tape. Shaded parts are not included.

c:Jr See additional optional or required items in the index of this manual.

Rrt-ist-· s Renderif1QS

~ . The original artist's renderings of this structure ( are furnished in this kit. They are for reference only and are specifically not produced to scale. The actual model differs from the original ren­ derings in many key areas. Please follow the Sound Processor ~ actual construction text, pictures and CAD ' 0 _., SOU NQ, PROCESSOR o•.s,:;.~~tO'i'l." 1991 "::: () 0 . (CAD stands for computer aided design.) drawings when 0 g "' constructing the model! I c{][Q~::r(IJ~c=J C~ 0°~to· · =· .,""" <;? .. , "'• U' ' ~.,. ~. ~his kit is designed to be something spe- ~ ~ ; ctal! In its standard format it is certainly ··=oooo 0 ·· D~n,l . ~ • ~· • ~· ... ~a ..: interesting and comes provided with a com­ (

plete lighting system. However, it is in the .. ·- ~ - - - . Silver Edition version of this kit that we have slightly different times. This circuit board includes a photocell something truly unique! Silver Edition kits include an on board which read the light level in your room. When the lights in "Gooo uap sawmift" Ki~ # B5 (fi0), P. 5 your room are dimmed or turned off the lights in the model are CJl triggered by the photo-cell. The photo cell is adjustable by Obtain a 1 ounce empty Floquil bottle or similar bottle. turning the orange potentiometer with a small screw driver. CJ 2 The specifics on this board are covered later in the instructions. Fill your bottle about 3/4 full with denatured alcohol. This board, lights and wiring·are included only in kit 85. D 3 Add approximately 30 drops of India ink to your bottle and The other two circuit board diagrams shown here represent the mix well. This stain will be used throughout the weathering of two boards found in Silver Edition sound equipped kits. They this kit. If you find you prefer to slightly darken it, just add are not included in standard kits. The installation of these more ink. However, we suggest it is better practice to restain boards is covered later on in this manual. an object rather than use a stain which might be too dark.

GOLOR PICTURES We recommend using this stain on all of the castings after painting them and before final placement of the castings to mute the colors realistically. Keep this in mind while con­ This kit is the second super kit (Master erea­ structing this kit. tionsm did the first.) in HO scale to be provided with all of the photos in the kit in full color. There are no photos in the majority of the instruction GOSt'iOQS manual. All of the color photos are found on separate sheets in the back of this manual. These The castings in our kits are made most often photos will make it far easier than in the past to of metal. However, they may also be injec­ make a very realistic model! tion molded styrene or cold cast urethane. These later two types of parts must be washed with warm soapy water instead of lacquer thinner. It is also very important to thoroughly rinse them after washing The pallet for this kit is found in the index. them. Urethane parts may be sanded and filed easily, but the Stains and paints used are listed separately. dust should not be inhaled! Paint all styrene parts with Barrier All colors are from the Floquil railroad col­ before painting them with other Floquil paints. Urethane parts ors line except as noted. Polly S colors are may be directly painted with Floquil paints. denoted with a (PS). However, it is wise to remember that dull colors are preferable to c:rr WARNING: The metal castings in this kit may contain loud bright colors for a realistic finished model. various levels of lead. Keep all parts away from pets and small children. Most of the castings in this kit are now 98% or more lead free. Always wash your hands af­ c:rr You may follow our suggested pallet or use your own. ter handling the castings!

c:rr Some color:; apparent in the photo:; are mixed with 2 You will find many castings in your kit. Several alloys are used or more of the basic colors. These mixtures are used to produce parts for out kits. We caution you that all the metal only on detail items and are not critical. parts should be handled with care as denting and breakage may occur if they are dropped. wea~nertoQ s~am D 4 Cleaning the castings is quite easy. We prefer jeweler's files The weathering stain formula we suggest and a # 11 X -Acto® blade for this procedure. After you have is based on experience with laser-cut com­ completed the initial cleanup ofparting lines, sprues and flash, ponents and castings. Using another for­ you should wash all the castings in lacquer thinner or dena­ mula is, of course, your option. However, tured alcohol and allow them to dry. it must be noted that too dark a formula against a relatively light finish coat will r:i1" Handle these after washing by wearing gloves or using tend to overemphasize laser-engraved nail holes. Hence, we some other protection to avoid getting them dirty suggest this weathering stain formula. again. 0 5 the proverbial barn! You do not have to ever sand the edges Many of the castings in our scene were treated with Blacken-It of laser-cut parts to remove any of the black edges on these according to the instructions on the product. A very realistic parts. We have never made it a practice to do this on any of weathered finish can be obtained using this method for details our models. If you follow our suggested painting techniques which in real life are made of metal. Additionally, we strongly you will not have to waste your time sanding the edges of parts. suggest that all castings be toned in this manner to provide However, if you are a masochist we invite you to sand every greater paint adhesion. laser-cut edge on every laser-cut part in this kit! 0 6 0 9 Painting the castings is qu:t~ easy and can be accomplished Use a sharp# ll X-Acto® in an appropriate holder to apply with a brush, or airbrush, as we prefer. We suggest airbrushing the wood grain. your castings with Floquil Earth paint as a primer coat. 0 10 0 7 Add 2 to 3 lines of wood grain per laser-cut board or laser­ We strongly suggest that you choose relatively dull colors for scored board. Do this by beginning at the end of a given scale your castings. Models tend to look more realistic using shades board and working to the other end in one continuous line. Do such as Coach Green, El Maroon, Grimy Black, etc. by Flo­ not try to make these lines straight, but rather just try to stay qui!, or similar dull shades. Rarely should you consider using on the given board. Slight waviness is exactly the result you bright colors in model scenes. Subtle colors are far closer to will need for this detaiL reality. 0 II 0 8 We suggest a base coloration of Driftwood stain for all of the Some of the metal castings may be treated with the powdered wooden components in this kit not specified to be a specific rust material in your kit This special mixture is highly effec­ color. Laser-cut edges should be base-colored with Antique tive and a little goes a long way. When it is applied to a dry fl at White prior to applying Driftwood stain if the final wood surface it will adhere permanently with no glue or sprays. Use coloration will be Driftwood. This will effectively and easily a clean soft bristle brush to apply it in moderation to castings hide any "burned" edges. Slight random additions of stains which you wish to have a rusted appearance. such as Oak, Maple, Rosewood, Natural Pine, etc. will add realistic variations to the models coloration. Leaks can be simulated by adding discretion via stains which are darker than (if"' Many of the metal castings in this kit are to be quite weathered if you are looking for the reBults depicted in the base Driftwood color. A final wash of your weathering our photos. Hence, many of our ca stings represent well stain will bring everything together nicely. weathered rusty metal. ~ We used an alternate method for additional weathering wood Grain and Gofor on t his structure rather than our weathering stain. We think the results are superior and believe you will too. Wood grain is just one of several items that when Obtain some powdered charcoal at an art supply store. added to a model wooden structure gives a proper One can will last a lifetime! You will also need a 1" wide " feel" to that structure. It is well worth the time soft brush. Never use this brush for anything other necessary to apply it We should note that the later than charcoal work. Never wash this brush! Use your bush to "dust" all exterior surfaces of the model. one adds wood grain tO a structure relative to succeeding coats of stain or paint will result in Brush and blow off excess charcoal. Practice on scrap more pronounced wood grain. We suggest that the material prior to "dusting" the model. The proper ef­ wood grain on a given piece always go on after the initial base fect will darken the model slightly and will darken the color coat except for the main walls in this kit The addition of "wood grain" lines you added to the model. wood grain will also make the nail holes on a given wall less prominent. Please remember that wood grain should only be 0 12 applied to parts representing wood on the finished modeL The interior surfaces of all of the walls and framing in this kit should be painted with Oak Stain. This stain will match the Recently we had an individual who claimed, that any savings laser-cut edges of basswood parts almost exactly. We do not created by laser-cutting parts was more than offset by the time even bother to stain the edges of the basswood parts due to necessary to sand the black edges off of all of the laser-cut how close a match is produced. Stain all of the parts needino parts. This individual was so far off the mark as to have missed this color prior to assembly. "' "Goon Ga~ sawmm" Kite # B5 (fj0), ~.. 1

rJ? Maple 5tain will al5o work. C) Apply a simulated metal cap strip. This method was used on our model. The shingle strips are a scale 1' wide. The strip was painted with Rail Brown paint followed by a dry brush 0 13 application of the rust powder in your kit. The exterior of the structure is base colored with Driftwood stain. All edges of laser-cut plywood parts are base colored with Driftwood stain in addition to the normal exterior sur­ 0 18 faces. Stain all of the parts needing this color prior to assem­ Stain the roof with the colors appropriate to your application. bly. It is important to note that excessive use of solvents may cause some lifting of the shingles. Use solvents in moderation and 0 14 in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. We used All exterior wood surfaces should be dry brushed with De­ Driftwood stain followed by a random application of Oak coart™ Desert Sand # DA77. You need this particular brand stain. A final dry brushing with powdered charcoal gives the and color to achieve the same results we did on our model. roof the appearance ofweathered cedar shingles.

The following section covers the application and finishing The following instructions apply to all techniques for the shingles in your kit. Refer to this section as ofthe corrugated metal parts in your kit. needed during the construction of this kit. Assemble the roofs Refer to them as necessary during con­ using the cardstock roofs and self-adhesive shingles in your struction. kit.

0 15 0 19 The shingles peel away from the backing very easily, but be Begin by obtaining Archer Etchant, or a similar product, sold careful in in stores such as Radio Shack. Obtain one of those disposable handling brushes with the cheap metal handle which will sell for about OFTS£T RCNS ~07. AS DEPICTCD Shingles them as $.15 to $.20 at the hardware store. It will get ruined. Lay out they are some newspaper, place the corrugated metal on the newspaper self adhe­ and pour some of the etchant into a plastic container. Dip your sive and brush into the etchant and cover the entire surface of the can ad- corrugated metal. You will notice, after a few seconds, a quick r here very reaction will take place on the surface, nrrning it shades ofgray well to and dark gray. This reaction will stop after a few minutes, e a c h because the chemical will be used up. other! 0 20 Use the Next, wash the corrugated metal thoroughly with water. If you Shingle diagram as a guide to apply the shingles to the roof. find some shiny spots, repeat the process in just these areas. Each succeeding layer of shingles always should overlap the The metal should look totally flat, with areas ofgray and dark last layer and be offset. Always work from the bottom up. gray. 0 16 0 21 Finish your roof's left and right edges by trimming the shingles Cut the corrugated metal into strips which are 6' high by 3' to within about 1" of the edge of the roof. Glue the roof to the wide. Use these to cover the roof. We suggest you apply the model after trimming it as described. strips to the roof using silicone gasket material. It can be (J 17 purchased in small tubes at auto parts stores. The brand we Peaked roofs require a roof cap strip. Depending on your used is made by Bondo. This material sets up quickly, requires preference this can be accomplished in one of the following a small amount, and being that it is of gel consistency, it helps ways: hold the pieces in place. Begin on the lower front corner on either side of the roof and work toward the rear of the roof A) Use individual shingles and overlap them on the peak. B) Fashion a simulated cap strip from white paper. "Goon Gap sawmiff" Kit' # B5

and each succeeding layer, working toward the peak of the roof. r:ir Do not spray this roof with a fixative - it will result in 0 22 an undesirable finish. Remember, the rust and charcoal Secure your first piece to the roof by applying the gasket powders will adhere sufficiently provided that you have material with a toothpick to the roof Place one corrugated applied them after only a few moments applying the piece over this, shiny side down. Allow a 2"- 3" overhang at Rail Brown paint. the bottom of the roof. 0 23 .. Tar Paper Roofs Proceed with the next piece overlapping it on the first piece by one corrugation, working to the right. Allow the same 2" - 3" overhang at the bottom of the roof. Continue across the The boiler house and the blacksmith bottom of the roof using this procedure with the gasket mate­ shop both have tarpaper roofs. Fol­ rial. When you reach the edge of a roof you may find it ~~~~,._.;..~ low the procedure below to complete necessary to cut your last piece down in width. Now, proceed these roofs when you reach the appropriate point in the assem­ with the second row up, repeating the same process as in the bly of this model. first row. Be sure to overlap the first row by 3" to 4". Continue with the same process for each succeeding row. 0 28 0 24 Remove a roof card from its sheet and mark the rafter locations Once the entire roof is assembled, set it aside to dry for at least on the underside of the roof using a sharp pencil. one hour. Drying time depends on the humidity level and 0 29 temperature of your room. Add "tar paper" made from 3' wide construction paper strips to the roof as depicted in the photos. Always work from the r::Jr Due to its difficulty, before going on to the next sec­ bottom up and overlap each succeeding strip a few scale tion you may wish to practice with a scrap piece of cor­ inches. rugated metal . 0 30 Weather the entire roof with a dusting of Durham's Rock Hard 0 25 Water Putty. Adding pigeons and pigeon droppings are cov­ When your roof is dry, apply Rail Brown with a 1/4" brush. ered under the Finishing Details section of this manual. Begin on the bottom row and brush one panel at a time. Use as much of the paint on your brush as possible before returning to your paint bottle for more. Since you are working with a wans dull surface, the paint will adhere nicely, again giving you a flat finish. You do not want to color the corrugated material There are several instances of brick walls completely with the paint. You are looking again for a realistic on the model. You can locate each of these result with nonuniformity. by looking at the photos, artist's renderings 0 26 and drawings in this kit. Each wall is to be Allow this to dry and apply your rust powder using a 1/2" dry, assembled and finished in the same basic manner. soft-bristled brush. Avoid using a coarse brush, or you will have nothing but trouble. Begin by touching your soft brush 0 3L lightly into the rust powder (supplied in your kit). Tap it off Attach all the brick wall portions of the model using 5 minute just so that there is some powder on the tips. Do not overload epoxy. Follow the diagrams for all locations and prefit all it. Work from the top down, brushing over the entire roof. You parts prior to fmal assembly. will notice that some areas are darker than others. This is all 0 32 right, as this is the result you are after. Gently blow off any The comers and joints on the brick walls will need final filling great amount of excess. to produce a realistic model. We suggest the use ofHobbico's 0 27 Hobbylite Filler for this purpose. Follow the manufacturers Now, obtain some artist's charcoal. Apply this sparingly over directions when using this filler. the surface of the roof with your 1/2" brush. Do not cover all 0 33 of the areas. Use a streaking motion in the direction of the All the brick portions of our model were painted with a base corrugations. coat of Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer This primer is usually available at automotive or discount stores. "GOOD Gatl .SaWI)]iff" Ki~ # B5 (fJO), P.. r;l

0 34 0 36 After the brick portions are glued to the sub-walls and have Use the exploded view diagram as a guide in assembling the dried thoroughly, you need to add the appearance of mortar to structure. The basic core framework assembly should be the lines between the bricks. We suggest the use of DecoArt assembled first. Antique White paint (available at craft shops) thinned with 0 37 sufficient water to allow it to flow into the grooves between Those who are building Silver Edition kits should install the bricks via capillary action. Apply the thinned paint to all brick speaker included with their kits over the hole in the second surfaces on the model as you go. floor piece of this kit. Use bot melt glue to fasten the speaker 0 35 in place. Do not glue the paper cone or you will damage the If you study the artist's renderings in the kit you will notice speaker! the chamfered cement ledges on top of the brick foundations which support the sawmill. These should be simulated by (jj=" Standard kit builders have a floor without a hole cut in using the filler putty you have to produce the fillet. When the it for a speaker. fillets are dry be sur~ to paint them Weathered Concrete. 0 38 6Llifdil1Q R • LoadiDQ Silver Edition kit builders need to r------, attach a piece of the gray wire to Loading Windows This structure represents the loading structure for the sawmill each of the terminals on the ~~15 complex. See the Wood Grain and eolor instructions on page 6 speaker. Run the wires over to the to refresh your memory regarding preparation of the wood 2 little holes in the upper right cor­ parts in this section. ner of the floor. Now attach the 4 wires to some of the copper wire in p~ tl ~ your kit. Pass the copper wire ~P12 through these holes and then P11 Section through wall through the holes in the wall of the '--1~!111!!111!111111!111'11!11-.-..~ rectangle window detail saw mill. The copper wire should be painted gray to represent P13 is optional on window interior conduit. D 39 Now assemble the siding panels onto the framework assembly. P15 Window Top Trim~ D 40 Assemble the windows by following the Loading Windows diagram and the cross section window diagram. Each of the P13 Assembly Part P14n omitted for windows in this structure assemble in the same manner. The clarity matching acetate "glass", portion of these windows are found D on the acetate sheet in your kit. Those building Silver Edition P12 J l, kits should position all of these windows closed. This will result in better sound from your speaker. Srandard kit builders can position the windows in any position you choose from all -Exterior Wall closed to all open. 0 41 Add window shades behind some of the windows. Window shades can be made from a single thickness of white facial tissue stained a· dirty yellow color. D 42 Cut battens to length from Sheet I in your kit and install them over all of the laser-cut board divisions on each of the walls. D 43 Use the Sheet I strips to form the horizontal "batten" trim pieces on some walls as depicted in the artist's renderings and the photos of the model. ;~ .-. ,.._~.~ -.·~· "GOOI1 Gap Sawmilf" Ki~ # B5 (f10), P.. 10 LORDING BUILDING Legend: Brick parts are on Sheet W Wall parts are 1/16" basswood see Sheet L

Fleer is r..1vwood and it is sey;a:-z:-'Ce 1 v ' Plywood parts see Sheet P & V

See Sheet for part stringers.

Corrugated roof

1 ¥\ "Coon Gatl sawmill" Kit- # B5 , P. 11

LORDING BUILDING FOUNDRTION Legend: Brick parts are on Sheet W Wail oarts are 1/16" basswooo. see Sheet L, L2 & L4 I "GOOO [jap Sawmiff" Kif< # B5

Boler acx~se Legend: Trim parts are 1/32" ba sswood see Sheet G Wa ll parts are 1/16 " basswood see Sheet h Plywood parts see Sheet P "Goon Gat1 sawmill" Kit' # B5 (fi0); ?. 1?

044 0 54 Add the trim pieces along the end wall roof lines and around The exterior of this roof assembly has 3 matching plywood the end wall vents. These pieces are part P35. sections on Sheet P2. These are to be finished with battens as 0 45 are the other walls on the model. You will note that there is a ladder on one side of the roof. The 0 55 ladder needs to appear as though it is made up of scrap pieces. You will find the roof on one of the card stock sheets. The roof Make it from the Sheet I strips in your kit. Follow the artist's will need to be held firmly in place as you glue it to the model. renderings and photos to construct the ladder. It will be both curved and angled when assembled properly. 0 46 0 56 The roof also needs to have a "metal" cap strip applied below Finish the roof by adding corrugated metal to it as described its walkway. Make this feature following the procedure listed on page 7. Add a tar fillet as mentioned on page 13. on page 7. 0 47 SOifer fiOI.JSe Add the roof walk made from part V32 and the part labeled L. Walkway on Sheet P2. 0 57 0 48 Prepare all wood parts as described on page 6. You need to add several pieces of scrap wood to the roof to represent repairs. These are made from scrap pieces of the 0 58 plywood sheets in your kit. See the photos and the artist's Assemble the structure as depicted in the exploded view Boiler renderings for these details. House diagram. Start by assembling the 6 basic 1116" thick core parts, walls, of the building. Follow this by adding the 0 49 trim pieces. Next add the vent parts as shown in the diagram The building sits on a brick foundation. The foundation is and photos in this kit. composed of basswood core walls covered with brick sheet. This assembly will prove highly accurate and mate properly 0 59 with the trestle assembly in the next section. Assemble the Chamfer the top edge of the long exterior 1/32" trim pieces to foundation for this structure now and finish it as described on allow proper installation of the roofs. page 8 of this manual. Refer to the Foundation Diagram to 0 60 understand this assembly. Install the roofs and add tarpaper to them as described earlier 0 50 on page 8. You will note that there is a corrugated roof on the end shed that is attached to this building. Find this shed roof now. It is r:Jr The top roof ie not covered with tarpaper. labeled "End Shed Roof." Glue it in place and follow the directions on page 7 to add the corrugated metal to this roof. 0 61 0 51 The top roof is covered with corrugated metal. See page 7 for Apply a "tar" fillet to the joint where the end shed roof meets instructions on how to install the metal. the siding of the building. This is made by first applying a thin 0 62 line of 5 minute epoxy to the joint. When the epoxy is cured The 2 doors on the building are detailed in a slightly different paint it with Engine Black paint. manner than shown in the artist's renderings. See the photos 0 52 of this building to note the placement of the photo-etched Add the 2 part V30 long side rafters and the part V31 short hinges. You will also note the use of a door handle about 3' end rafters to the underside of this roof. scale up from the bottom of each door. These parts should be a 53 finished offwith Rail Brown paint and some of the rust powder This building also features an additional roof on the rear side in your kit. of it. This roof is visible in the photos and artist's renderings. 0 63 It is made up of5 framing pieces found on Sheet Z2. The end Find the 4 large brass tubes in your kit. The 2 longest tubes piece includes the legs. The outside trapezoid frames are the form the bottom of the boiler house smoke stacks. The other large ones on Sheet Z2. The inside 2 supports go at the roof 2 tubes are for the top of the boiler house smoke stacks. You peak break points. also need to find the circular white metal coupling piece that is used to join the lower and upper half of each stack. "Goon Gap .sawmiJJ" Kit # B5

0 64 0 67 Find the parts for your smoke generators as noted in the Smoke Assemble the smoke generator parts as depicted in the dia­ Stachs and Smoke aenerators diagram. You will also need the gram. The woven glass tube must stretch from the top of the copper wire in your kit and some of the coiled gray hookup brass tube down to the bottom of the tube. The lower lead passes through the woven glass tube. The smoke generator must have the cast base attached to the brass tube using J. B. Smoke Stacks and Smoke Generators Weld. Likewise the glass resistor is attached through the hole in the cast brass base. Attach one wire of the coiled wire pair TeAon t ube - »- ' 1 to this lead and pass it through the center hole in the cast metal --~ . ' ~- Upper copper t ube smoke stack coupling. Glass resistor __;· ~ 1!~ ~ : 0 68 Woven gla ss fiber tube -»- I '- .J --»-A Use J. B. Weld to affix the smoke generator to the smoke stack ~ ~ ~- White met al coupler coupling.

Small brass tube -»­ 0 69 !J The Teflon® tube is installed as in the diagram. The lead with Cast base ·»- ~ the Teflon® tube must be insulated from the entire smoke generator assembly and the smoke stack. The copper wire is Generator Assemb~ used to " lash" the Teflon® tube to the entire assembly. Solder the other wire of the coiled wire pair to this lead. Use the Use 9 to 12 volts for power. Higher volt age increases smoke. supplied heat shrink tubing over the joint you just prepared. Oo not exceed 12 volts. Pass this wire through one of the side holes in the coupling. 0 70 The foundation is a single plaster casting. Clean up the casting • Lower copper t ube as necessary. 0 71 Carefully add a hole to the foundation casting below each smoke stack to pass your wires through. 0 72 The casting should be stained with a wash of Foundation Stain as a base coloration. Use random applications ofConcrete and ~• ~-· White metal coupler Earth for color variations. When it is dry, add highlights with a dry brush application of Decoart Antique White. 0 73 Glue the finished boiler house to the finished foundation. Set wire in your kit. the assembly aside until you begin assembling your diorama. 0 65 There are 4 couplings used in making the 2 smoke stacks. You need to drill holes at the dimpled points on 2 of these cou­ TRESTLE plings. Your holes need to be about .060" in diameter. The 2 couplings you drill must be used as the upper couplings in your The trestle and loading building will allow the use of standard smoke stacks. gauge equipment dependent on height, as well as the narrow 0 66 gauge arrangement we did on the model. However, we recom­ Assemble the parts as depicted in the diagram. All parts need mend narrow gauge equipment for this model. Narrow gauge to be dark rust with some of your rust powder added to accent will not require modification to the basic arrangement of them. An airbrush would be appropriate for painting these components. Some standard gauge cars will not work with this parts. Do not paint the insides of the tubes. The smoke stack model, nor would they be appropriate. An example would be parts must be assembled using J.B. Weld mixed according to a high cube box car. Measure and check your clearances prior the instructions. You must use this adhesive here due to to final assembly of the trestle. potential temperatures. ACC and five minute epoxy can fail when used next to a smoke generator. The end of the trestle is supported by a log pile in the artist's renderings. It is supported by trestle bents in the original "GOOO Gap sawmiff" Ki~ # 85 (fi0), P. 15

D 75 The parts should be base col- r------, LOG ~ILO Trestle ored as deS'cribed under the 'I Trestle Ladder ~ Wood Grain and eolor section of these instructions on page 6. c:BENT LCCAT~ I T~ACK CENTER LINES Add the nut-bolt-washer cast­ .,; u TRCSTLC BAS( ~ ings to the trestle bent assem­ :e ""'-NBIJ LOCATIONS '- ·-~"']It .. blies and paint them with Rail ~ '' " Brown. I 76 TRESTLE 8£NT ~ -~S£ LI:J D /~~\ 2 ' Finish the installation of the Mak~ the ~ LOADING BUILDING nut-bolt-washer parts by adding long rungG from ~ lJ !~[~' a dry bush application of the Sheet I GtripG. ESTLE 8£NT SHEET 8 rust powder in your kit See the ~ photos for clarity on this point. l-;i!IIJIIII!!JIII!JI!II!I. 111!'. 11]11. II!..!IJIII!I!I .. 'IIII!!JIJIIll!l!!lllfl L_ I ·• 077 11 ~ Prior to installing the 4 large support stringers you will have ~PI !:' ...< to determine their locations. You may wish to move them to .; better fit your track gauge. This is entirely up to your desires. ~ "' Their locations will not affect the placement of the ties above them. t[TAIHIN(i \IN..L .:...r- ~!~!~~-:.-'-~~ '----' '-- I [J 78 ~ j , J ~~A~· • . ,. h , ., ·ll · -~-: ?...5~ .· ...:;'"!: ~~~--:-~~:.*-·?- ;-<> • ·.-..:h.,_·"" '' or-~·.,o:v ~~ 11:-'\.l""'"t;G,.'\: • The Tre&tle Top diagram shows the proper installation of the upper components of the trestle. The parts are found on sheet artist's concept drawing. We have follo\ved the concept draw­ B2. All of these parts should be precolored to match the trestle ing rather than the renderings in the back of this manual. bents. Once the parts are dry follow the diagram to assemble the trestle. 0 74 0 79 Follow the Tre&tle drawing to prepare the trestle bents and You may prepare your trestle ladder, as depicted in the Trestle retaining wall for installation on the trestle base. The bents are Ladde~ drawing, at this time as you have the rest ofyour trestle. laser-scored on one side only. We cannot accurately laser­ However, do not install it until you are sure of your scenery score the other side for you. You will need to add the score arrangement around the model. You can see the location of lines to the blank side with a sharp knife. the ladder in our photos and the artist's renderings. 0 80 The top of the trestle includes 4 walkway boards along its length. These are part P28 on Sheet P2. Install them N6WPiates -- = --G6 I as depicted in the photos. You will have to cut some Trestle Top of the parts to length. Save the scraps as they will be ~ ~ - L14 useful in detailing the model later. Track Center Lines Support 8eams Mo'le beams ior different gauge track 0 81 I "'- NBW locatio"s The top end of the trestle has a bumper portion on it. Assemble it from the parts noted in the Trestle Top ...... ~•~LIJ ' li drawing. V8"' Retaining w•n i£~~-":~

CJ 82 Study the Sawmill Support exploded view diagram. Prepare all of your wood as directed on page 6. As- 5illc view of beam wi~ ~e lcx;a~on mark5

·- - "Goon Gap sawmm" Kit- * B5

Legend: Front and rear supports are on Sheet M The base is 1/16" bassvvood see Sheet K Center support assemblies on Sheet J Joist sections are on Sheet N "GOOI1 Gap .sawmill" Kif' # B5

D 88 One of the photos in the back of this manual depicts this assembly in a partially completed state. You will note the installation of the floor sections found on Sheet U. The end 2 floor sections are wider than the central floor sections. Addi­ tionally, one floor section has a hole cut in it. This floor section is the second one from the jack slip end of the sawmill. D 89 -. The photo mentioned in the previous step also shows 2 "tarps" .. . made from the tissue paper enclosed in your kit. These "tarps" hide the rest of the area in this portion of the sawmill. Use Driftwood stain to color the tissue paper prior to cutting it to ~· fit the locations depicted in the photos. D 90 Find the side wall inserts depicted in the exploded view diagram. They consist ofessentially windowed and non-win­ dowed versions. Some of these parts are located on Sheet C However, each version has 2 sizes. The slightly longer ver­ sions are used at each end of the sawmill. All of these parts are finished to match the rest of the sawmill interior.

, _, . ' . . ~-"' . ·"·....; ..;,:, . . ... ,, -· - . . . . . ' . W The exploded view drawing notes the .absence of .an in­ semble the basic support system for the sawmill at this time. sert on the loading building side of the modeL This is D 83 t he walkway area between the structures. Find part Q l. Each of these pieces is to be a brace at 90 degrees to each of the main laser-cut support assemblies. They are to be weathered and installed as shown in the artist's renderings of the side views of the sawmill. They are r------, also visible in the photographs. They are used at all the vertical post locations on the outside edges of the sawmill support structure. Install these now. D 84 The base of the sawmill is Sheet K. Attach Sheet K now. 0 85 The first 3 supports need to have a G4 piece added to both sides of the base of each support. Glue these· in place now. 0 86 Attach the brick work to the bottom of the first 3 supports. These are the supports on the log pond side of the sawmill. The parts only fit these supports. There are 6 long rectangular brick parts and 6 small rectan­ Support Wall Assembly gular brick parts. Check their fit prior to installation. Install them as described on page 8. Jack Slip Side 0 87 The jack slip end of the sawmill and the opposite end of the sawmill feature sided and partially sided walls. See the exploded view drawings covering these assem­ blies to add these parts to your sawmill. "Goon Gap sawmiff" Kit" # B5 (f10), P.. 1B

0 91 0 97 Add the siding sections to the Pai red window{10s The top of this walkway is made up of 3 pieces of plywood long sides of the sawmill. 08 found on Sheet D. Weather these and install them on the Each section can be used in P34 ~ model. only one location. The 2 first ft1 0 98 floor end sections are de­ ~83/ You will note there is a railing along this walkway. The posts picted in the drawings on this ty"~Q D10 ' are precut for you as part G3. Prepare these and install them page. All parts depicted in at all the locations cut out in the walkway deck. The railing the drawings should be in'-' ~09 needs to appear a bit "slap-dash" hence you are to make it from 07/ stalled at this time. Add brass 1 scrap material from your laser cut sheets. All parts are to be door knob assemblies to the cut by hand by you to get a random appearance. doors on these walls at a 0 99 height of about 30 inches. See the photos for clarity if neces­ The walkway should have some diagonal braces supporting it. sary. These are to be cut from the scrap plywood in your kit. Run 092 several of these from the underside of the walkway back to the The second floor is composed of 4 main wall support sections. support posts of the saw mill. They are not be be overly These are found on C series sheets. The 2 long supports are uniform. identical and the 2 end supports are quite different. See the 0 100 artist's renderings for placement of these parts. They must be Add the battens to the exterior portions of these wall sections. finished to match both interior and exterior wood finishes depending on the portion of the wall section that is exposed in real life to the weather. ------~ o 93 Stair Assembly There are 3 large plywood wall sections used on the exterior of this floor and 6 small triangular sections. Find these wall sections, stain them and G3 install them now. 0 94 P44 P45 P40 I There are 3 large braces used on the base of the ! sawmill. They can be seen in the photos and in I the artist's renderings. The parts are numbered P27 (use 1 only at this point}, V23 and P3l. Use iI w P27 on the jack slip end of the sawmill. Use P31 on the loading side of the building. Use V23 on ,l!, the power building side of the structure. , .______J 0 95 The 7 window pairs on the lower floor are all the .. ' same. You will find 3 of these on the wall on the trestle side of the building and 4 on the opposite I' /~ !.i Ioo~ L17 long wall of the building. See the Paired Windows i ~~~ diagram to assemble these windows. Remember I L18 to add the matching acetate "glass" to these win- : dows. Railings are made from scrap strips from your plywood sheets. 0 96 The structure features a walkway in the area "!!: ···-· . . .. .-. ,·-. ~ . " .... · .. between the trestle and the main portion of the mill. The base of this walkway is found on one ofthe L Sheets. r:r Please remember not to add battens to the portions of these walls which contact the loading building por­ It is readily identifiable by its shape as depicted in the photos. tion of the model when it is assembled. Finish the walkway support and glue it in place on the model. "GOOD GaEl SlJWf))iff" Kif' # B5 (fi0), P. 1r;,1

Joist Assembly Diagram The interior of the main sawmill is really the "star" attraction on this model. There is a diagram near the end of this section c::::::::J D which covers the placement of all the major items of the sawmill interior.

D D 0 105 0 0 Assemble the table for the swing cut off J saw as shown in the eut Off Table diagram. The wood parts should be colored to match the wood parts on the interior of your saw mill. Use Coach Green on the bearings on II II the roller assemblies. The remainder ofthe 0 0 u 8 rollers should be toned with Blacken-it D I and scuffed to highlight bright wear spots II~ I I on them. The end bottom members need 2 1" NBW castings added to them to depict Floor holes are depicted the points at which this table is attached to the floor of the sawmill.

0 101 There are several railings visible on the model. They are to Cutoff Table be made from the scrap edge portions of the I Sheets in your kit. All of these railings must be cut to fit by you. They should ' be about 3' scale height from the floor to the tops of the ' railings. However, they can and will vary in height slightly if : Small Rollers you follow our lead. End Side 0 102 The wall sections, as you know, do not cover all of the , framework on the model. There are separate parts to cover ' the framework. These parts are Vl8 {2), Vl9 (2), P27 (3), · [~LJFU u----uu-lFlJ P29 and P30. Their locations are dictated by their sizes. The ' P27 parts are used on the top ofthejack slip end ofthe sawmill : L21. L22 and the top and bottom of the opposite end of the building. - ,...... l!lllll.llllll!llllll!aii!!IIRIIIIIJIIIIJIIM!II.IIi The P29 and P30 parts are used on the bottom of the jack slip end of the sawmill. The P29 part is used on the loading side of 0 106 the jack slip end of the building. The Vl9 pieces are used on The long roller table directly after the cut offsaw is assembled the power building side of the sawmill. The Vl8 parts are for in the same way as the last table, except you use part L23 for the loading building side of the sawmill. the sides. Additionally, you need to add plywood part P60 as depicted in the overhead view of this table on the main floor 0 103 diagram. This part forms a guard on one side of the table. See Add the stairs to the rear of the sawmill as depicted in the Stair the photos for depictions of these finished tables. Assembly diagram. 0 107 0 104 There are 2 roller tables positioned before the resaw. Each one Add the joists to the model for the second floor installation. uses part Rl for the main side rails and P61 as denoted on the The locations are laser etched on the end wall sections and are Main Floor diagram. The parts separating the side rails and the depicted in the Joist Assembly diagram. You will find the NBWs are the same as the other roller tables. various joists on Sheets L & H. "Goon Gap sawmitf" Kif" # B5 , P.. zo

be a scale 6" in length Cordesman Machine Co. Band Saw and installed into the dimpled hole on the side Assembly. Diagram of the bandsaw body. Band Saw Parts: a) Main Wheels b) Drive Wheel c) Body d) Base Side Assembly e) Small Rollers f) Control Lever g) Control Side Assembly h) Saw Table i) Hand Wheel ~ j) Saw Blade A B c D 0 111 Glue it to the floor as­ sembly as depicted in the Overhead View diagram. 0 108 The last roller table includes one driven roller. The casting is 0 112 slightly different from the other roller castings. See the photos Assemble the resaw as depicted in the eorith Manufacturing eo. in the rear of this manual to see how this roller its drive wheel Resaw diagram. You will need to ream or drill all precast and and belt are assembled. The wood parts for this' long roller tab!~ dimple holes to fit the .028" wire in your kit. All the "tubular" are R3, P62 and L21. They assemble in the same manner as parts are made from this .028" wire. We suggest having the top the other 3 roller tables. roller frames with the smooth rollers positionabled to allow 0 109 for wood passing into and out of the machine on the model. There are 2 small tables used between the transfer table and The Belt is to be cut and fashioned by you from the paper sheet the roller assemblies. These assemble quite easily from the in your kit. Use a gray or tan shade for the belts. The saw blades following parts G8 (sides) and P46 (tops). Their locations are should be positioned approximately evenly spaced as shown depicted on the Overhead View of this floor of the saw mill. 0 110 Corit h Manufacturing Co. Resaw Assemble the band saw as Assembly depicted in the Band Saw diagram. Ream holes as nec­ Top essary fo r parts to fi t well. The blade is laser-cut paper to aid in appearance and as­ sembly. Paint it silver. All parts are best assembled with ACC and an instant set solution. The hand wheel on the side of the band saw should be installed using A B c D .008" wire. The wire should "COOV Gat1 sawmill"

in the photos in the back of this manual. All parts are best blocks and set works is .020" music wire. There are dimples assembled with ACC and an instant set solution. in the side of the headblocks showing the location of the wire. The metal portions of the carriage are finished by toning them Resaw Parts:- with Blak.en-It. The wood portions of the carriage should be a) Knurled Roller {these are the front and rear finished with Decoart Desert Sand. Attach cables to the wood bottom rollers}- (2) cross members with indents in them. These cables are used in b) Weight Roller- {these are the front and rear real life to pull the carriage back and forth past the band saw. top rollers} (2) They will pass over the ribbed pulleys which are glued into the c) Drive Wheel- special floor at each end of the carriage travel. You will note these d) Roller Drive Wheel - (2) details in the overhead photos of this portion of the model. e) Drive Wheel f) Side A Carriage Parts: g) Side B a) Carriage Frame h) Bottom Rails - 2 b) Wheels - (8) i) Front Weight Assembly c) Set Works j) Rear Weight Assembly d) Control Lever- (3) k) Top Rail e) Headblock- (3) l) Saw Blades - (2)- see white card sheet f) Ribbed Pulleys - (2) g) Cable 0 113 Glue the resaw in place as depicted in the Overhead View 0 115 diagram. Attach code 70 rail as depicted in the overhead diagram to the floor of the interior of your sawmill. The rail is not furnished (if" The belts which pass through the floor are not con­ in your kit You should weather the rail lightly prior to final neckd to anything on the model, since the first floor installation of the floor into the model. Test your carriage for area is not visible or detailed. roll characteristics and clearance relative to all surrounding details prior to final assembly. Install the pullys, cables and 0 114 carriage as shown in the photos. Assemble the basic saw carriage as depicted in the R.R. Howell 0 116 5aw eama~e diagram. The indents pictured in the overhead The Overhead View of the second floor of the saw mill also view are where you will attach your cable to the carriage. The shows how to construct the drive belt support which will drive axles are made from .028" brass wire. The Wheels must be the swing cut offsaw. You will need to ream or drill all precast carefully filed to a round finish. Mount the wheels on the axles and dimple holes to fit the .028" wire in your kit. All parts are which you cut to length and crimp the ends of the axles slightly best assembled with ACC and an instant set solution. The Belts to fasten the wheels in place. The axles should be glued to the are to be cut and fashioned by you from the paper sheet in your carriage through holes drilled at the dimpled points on the kit. Use a gray or tan shade for the belts. Assemble it at this carriage. This assembly is pictured for you in the detail pictures time. in the back of the manual. The wire used between the head- R.R. Howell Saw Carriage Assembly Diagram

:- ,g, ,g, ~ ~ L fO[ 0 0 0 I w 6' 6' ~ "GOOO Gap .Sawmiff" Kit # B5 (fJO), P.. zz

Drive for Cut Off Saw: 0 118 a) Supports - (2) The swing cut off saw is mounted from the ceiling in real life. However, we had !Swing Cutoff Saw [ to be a bit creative to keep the roof re­ moveable so that all your work on this SIDE B SIDE A FIG. l f{ • floor would be visable. Find part P55 to CENTRAL IJHEEL !> · support your saw. You will also need the SIDE A •' ; L27 bracket. The braket mounts .020" 0 rn , wire below the top of the rear roof sup­ ·.... -: ,- ...... 1~, . '/ c ~ '- -~HJE· : port. Directly on top of this part you will SIDE B B ' be mounting part P55. However, you ® I need to first install your swing cut off saw ®-~ SECT iON 1 : on the P55 bracket. Once the saw is in­ ;§ . a e; t t & . ;; ; ; &&L stalled you can glue the P55 braket in .· ·· place as depicted in the photos in the rear I s:n~ c SiDE D of this manual. OVERHEAD DIAGRAM MAP 0 119 Assemble the transfer table as depicted in SIDE C ~ the Transfer Table diagram. The parts are found on the Sheers G, H, L, Rand P3. D SIDE 3 DSIDE The top parts are P47 and P48. See the -ffi. ~ overhead photos for details. a:~ SIDE A Transfer Table Parts: a) Dogs (9)- on white card sheet b) Center Top Wheel b) Grooved Rollers- (6) c) Side Wheel c) Drive Wheel d) .020" Wire 0 117 e) Chain Assemble the swing cut off saw as depicted in the Swing eutoff Saw diagrams. You will need to ream or drill all precast and dimple holes to fit the .028" wire in your kit. The frame has 2 very small dimpled holes which are for .008" wire that you Transfer Ta b[e will form into a handle. All parts are best assembled with ACC DRI V" - 1 s•- =- - \JLY and an instant set solution. The Belts are to be cut and fash­ I - . - '" "~~--- -~- - 1 ioned by you from the paper sheer in your kit. Use a gray or I' G 7 ~os;;:::::r ~~':0r~N, tan shade for the belts. ! ~s- =~cR - ~EV 3~~S - L25

Cut Off Saw Parts: a) Frame b) Center Top Wheel c) Top Drive Wheel d) Bottom Drive Wheel e) Blade Guard f) Counter Weight g) Supports - (2) h) Blade - etching "GOOD Ga~ Sawtniff" Kif' # B5 (FJO)~ P. z;

(ND iiUtlDING QP(NINti

~ LOG TURN(R$

f) Wood parts as noted above 0 123 You will note the placement of many other details in this 0 120 portion of the model. The boards are made from scrap wood The portion of the slip entering the building has several top in the kit and from the "extra" parts on Sheet P3. Painted with pieces which need to be added to it. They are installed in the Decoart Desert Sand. Add these details now and add additional same manner as the similar pieces were added to the Jack Slip. details to your liking. Such details will include oil stains made They are parts P49 and P50. with thinned Engine Black. You should also glue very fine 0 121 sawdust in many places with thinned white glue to add a You will note the cast details of the log deck and the position realistic appearance. Bits of paper, wood and waste are also of the log deck on the Main F'!oor Arrangement diagram. The appropriate as depicted in our photos. deck rests on 6 supports, R2, which are glued to the main floor. One support must be fashioned at each end the other supports are placed directly on each side of the slots in the floor for the log stops. These supports also glue directly against the slip This entire roofassembly will be removeable from the finished parts you just installed. The top of the Jog deck is composed model. Therefore, do not glue it in place on the sawmill. of parts P51 and P52. Add these at this time and glue your Jog stops in place. 0 124 Assemble the sawmill's main roof using the .Main Roof dia­ r:J 122 gram. You will note that most of the rafter assemblies do not See the Main F'loor Arrangement diagram regarding other de- tails. These details need to be glued into position as noted and include board break detail. We have added this detail only to shown in the photographs. Each of these items in real life parts which will be readily visible on the finished model. All would likely be unpainted castings. We suggest toning them parts are finished as noted on page 6 for the interior wood on your model. with Blacken-It and polishing surfaces that wear. The drive system for the swing cut off saw is covered in this drawing. It 0 125 is supported by part P59. See the photos in the rear of this Assemble the floor sections of the Saw Filer's Room. This is manual for clarity. the room in the center top of the building. These are found on Sheet R. See the overhead photos for the placement ofthe floor sections. You will have to cut 2 floor joists out for the opening in the floor depicted in the photos. "Goon Gat1 sawmiff" Kit- H B5 , P. z4

MFIIN ROOF Legend: Jois"':-s are 1/16 " bass:Ncod see Sheet N

Plywood parts see Sheet P & Sheet D Framework is 3/32" Basswood "Coon Gat1 sawmiJf" Ki~ H B5

Remember that the end 2 floor joist sections are wider D 136 than the other joist sections. The matching floor Affix the 4 part D 1 end rafters and the part V31 side rafters to boards are also wider. The size difference is also noted the upper roof. near these parts on their laser-cut sheets. 0 137 Use the Saw Filer's Window hsembb diagram as a guide to 0 126 construct the windows for this portion of the structure. Add the main roof section to the assembly and shingle it as 0 138 described on page 7. The walkway that exists from the Saw Filer's Room to the a 121 second floor of the Loading building has corrugated metal Add the exterior plywood to the model roof assembly around sides. Follow the instructions on page 7 to complete the the Saw Filer's Room. addition of the metal. D 128 0 139 Saw Filer's Window Assembly Add the 13 window Add "tar" fillets at the base of each of these corrugated walls frames depicted in as you did for the other corrugated roofs on the model. the Saw Filer's Win­ 0 140 dow assembly dia­ Study the artist's renderings and photos to notice the additional gram. small boards added to the roof to "hold" shingles onto the roof. a 129 Make these from your sheet I strips. Affix the battens to 0 141 the exposed exterior There are 2 boards attached to the bottom of the main roof wall sections of the assembly. See the photos in the rear of this manual for this saw filers shop. feature. These boards allow the positive mating of the main roof with the saw mill proper. The parts are numbered Cl. 130 0 Finish them to match the interior of your sawmill. Fabricate the roof "ladder" boards as depicted in the artist's renderings and photographs in your kit. These are to be hand 0 142 cut from your sheet I strips. Make them about 2' scale length Find 3 triangular trusses on Sheet L3. Stain the trusses and do not be overly accurate or neat in their installation. install them above the walkway section on the main roof. One truss is glued at the end of the walkway. Another truss is glued D 131 at the other end of the walkway. The last truss is glued in the Assemble the roof of the Saw Filer's Room. The trusses on middle of the walkway. this roof are arranged to match the truss spacing on the main roof, except as follows. The end 2 truss assemblies are used 0 143 just inside of the end wall assemblies. This is not prototypical, Locate the roof for this walkway on Sheet E2. Cut it out and but it will allow the roof to be significantly less prone to mark the rafter locations on its bottom side. Glue it to the warpage and still give a very realistic appearance. This roof is walkway trusses. also to be left removeab!e. 0 144 0 132 Shingle the roof as described on page 7. Attach the shingles to this roof. 0 145 Add the part D6 rafters to this roof. 0 133 Repeat the application of the roof"ladder" boards to this roof. 0 146 0 134 The ends of the main roof have doors which are placed Construct the roof walkway. It is composed of parts P26 and partially open on the model. There are 8 small doors formed the laser-cut board labeled "walkway." See the artist's render­ with part V34 for the door and V35 for the door braces. You ings regarding general assembly. Exact spacing of the saddles will note that each door is nearly cut into strips. Glue your door that hold the roof walk is not critical. Count your saddles and braces on one side of the door so that the portion of the door then space them evenly along the roof ridge. which is not cut through overhangs. Now cut off this excess portion of the door. The end result is a door which appears to 0 135 be made of separate pieces, but only took you seconds to Install the fire barrels onto the roof walk. They are to be complete. See the photos for placement of these doors. Each painted Caboose Red and weathered with some Decoart An­ door is finished to match the exterior wood on your model. tique White. "Goon Gap Sawmiff" Kif." # BS

,'

0 147 0 157 Repeat the process in the preceding step to assemble the 4 The air compressor Work Benches larger doors, which are used on the central openings on each has a hose attached Legs end of the sawmill main roof. The parts used for these doors to it. This is made are V36 and V37. from the latex thread 0 148 in your kit. Attach it The jack slip end of the sawmill has a small roof which is to t.he compressor attached to the main roofa~~embly. Find this roof on Sheet E2 with ACC. and install corrugated roofing on it as described on page 7. 0 158 0 149 You will note a band '-l~t~•••I!IIIIIJI!I!IIIIIIII•II!II.!Ii There are 4 rafter assemblies which are attached to the bottom saw blade set on 4 of this roof. These are part G5. Finish these as you have all the holders in this room. The holders are made from parts P53 and other exterior wood pieces on your sawmill. . P54. They interlock to form 4 stands for filing a band saw 0 150 blade. See the photos in the back of this manual to note these Glue the roof in place as depicted in the photos and artist's details. renderings in this manual. 0 159 0 151 You will also note a ladder runs from this floor down to the Add a tar fillet to the roof as described on page 13. second floor of the saw milL This ladder is to be made in the same manner as the ladder you did for the exterior of your saw mill. Attach the ladder to the removeable roof only. saw Fifer's Room Int-erior 0 160 There are additional details found on the white card sheet 0 152 which held your saw blades. Finish these parts with Old Silver The underside of the Saw Filer's Room roof includes 2 non­ paint working lamp assemblies. They are made from 2 ofthe Grandt Line shades and bulbs in your kit. Finish the shades as Jack snp RssemofY described on page 29 under Preparing the Lights. 0 153 The jack slip is a fascinating part of this model. All of its wood See the underside photo of this roof to note how to mount these parts are finished in the same manner as all previous exterior lamps. Use the .020" wire in your kit to form hangers to place wood parts on the model. the lamps shades no more than 2' down from the base of the rafters to the floor of the Saw Filer's Room. You will also note our use of some of the wire to form simulated conduit. The 0 161 conduit should be painted a general shade of dull gray. Follow the Jaek Slip Bent diagram to assemble the bents. 0 154 The interior walls of this room need to be added. Find the end wall sections and finish them to match the interior wood parts of your model. Glue these in place. Next find the 2 side wall sections and finish them in the same manner and glue them in Jack Slip Side 4 5 place. 3 0 155 Assemble the 2 work benches used in this room. The parts are 2 shown in the Work Benches diagram. All items are finished to s. match the interior wood of the saw mill. 1 0 156 Study the overhead photos of the interior of this room and add the details depicted in the photos. Refer to the general instruc­ tions concerning castings on page 5. t ~ MJi&&$MJ!,£@4i41J9iAYU$UM:ZW.G~A Q?.;zt _$l .fMAlJJSP.t.t.QJ.kWS~ ~Mus:;"· "GOOO Gatl sawmill" Kif' # BS (fj0 }, P. Z1

4 Jack Slip Bents 3

2

1

f9£NT I..OCATJONS il I II 313c· B 1: I JACK SL!P 9ENT-rrrn I N SHEET C .... II I

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0 162 jack slip is not centered on each bent. The artist's renderings Add NBWs to all the laser marked locations. Paint these with are, in general, correct relative to this assembly. The right side Rail Brown prior to installation and touch them up as neces­ walkway on this assembly is a scale 2' over from the right edge sary after installation. of the top of each bent. The left side assembly is a scale 18" a 163 over from the left edge of the top of each bent. Use your rust powder on each NB W and to add slight streaking below each NBW. a 164 Follow the Jach Slip Side drawing to add the bracing to the top Jack Slip Walkway 5 of the jack slip. There are 4 of each of the parts numbered Ql 4 to Q5. They are placed in line with the 4 vertical portions of each bent. (J 165 5 aach of all Y part5. The bents numbered 1 to 4 will need to be cut and/or sanded away to match the slope of the connecting pieces. a 166 Weather any resulting fresh wood to match the weathered portion of the bents. [J 167 Follow the Jach Slip Walhwa_y diagram to add the basic walk­ way parts to the assembly. You will note that the top of the V part6 are on top of the assembly. "Goon Gap sawmifJ" Kif" # B5

0 168 5faCk.Smif"h 'S ShOP Add the walkway boards made from the Sheet I strip in your kit Each such strip is about 21" long in scale length. Place­ 0 177 ment is not critical and can be noted in the artist's renderings Find the 2 stud wall sections for this small structure on Sheet and the photos in this kit L4. They consist of an end wall and a side walL Test fit them 0 169 on the loading building assembly foundation. See the Sample Sent drawing to note the placement of the 7 0 178 part Ll3 support pieces. O,n.e Ll3 is installed centered on the Stain the stud wall sections as you have previously. top of each bent. One Ll3 is also installed at the beginning and the end of the entire assembly. 0 179 Glue the stud wall sections in place. 0 170 The Sample Sent drawing also notes the part numbers of the 0 180 additional pieces which are applied to the Ll3 forms to com­ Find the matching plywood wall sections for these walls. Stain plete this portion of the jack slip assembly. The parts numbers them as you have other wall sections. correspond to the various V series parts used in your walkway. 0 181 0 171 Glue the plywood wall sections in place. Trim or sand parts only if absolutely necessary due to the 0 182 angles involved in this assembly. Add "tar paper" to the exterior of these walls as shown in the 0172 photos and artist's renderings. Refer to page 8 as necessary. The railing on this assembly is to be made mostly by you from 0 183 scrap pieces of plywood in your kit. Once again you are after Find the roof for this structure on Sheet E2. Mark the rafter a "slap-dash" home made appearance. The posts for the railing positions onto the bottom of the roofwith a penciL are made from pan G3. 0 184 0 173 Install corrugated metal on the roof as described on page 7. There is a cable for the dogs which grab into the logs and lift 0 185 them to the second floor of the saw milL This cable needs to Find the 3 bottom truss sections for this roof on the L Sheets. be colored prior to installation. It needs to be colored with a D 186 rust color permanent marker prior to installation. Once it is Stain these to match the interior wood on your modeL Glue colored glue it in place so that about l/2'' extra is at the base them in place as depicted in the underside photo of this roof of the jack slip and the remainder of the extra cable hangs off in the rear of this manuaL This roof will remain removeab1e. the top end of the assembly for now. Hence, do not glue it in place on the modeL 0 174 0 187 You will note that there are 4 "metal" strips placed along the You will note that the photos of the completed model differ cable area. These strips are made from the plastic strip in your from the artist's renderings in a couple of ways. The finished kit The strips will need to be cut as necessary by you to fit the saw mill features just 3 "doors" covering the windows on the assembly and have any joints in the strips fall directly over one modeL They assemble in the same manner as the doors you of the supports on this assembly. You may wish to paint these assembled for your main roof ends. The parts are numbered with Rust paint prior to placing them on the modeL D2 through D5. Assemble these and add them to the model 0 175 now. Once you have installed the strips on the model you need to 0 188 add a dusting of rust powder to the strips. Find the end rafter part P36 and the five side rafters part P37. 0 176 These are to be installed on the roof of the blacksmith shop. Add the 2 dogs to the jack slip. You will see these in the photos. However, do not glue them in place in such a manner that they These parts push the logs up into the saw milL affix the roof to the structure. D 189 The roof also features a tall smoke jack. This special smoke jack has a spark arrestor on the top of it. The spark arrestor is to be about 24" tall in real life. Form it from the scale screen wire in your kit. It works best to form a cylinder and affix it to the top rim on the smoke jack with 5 minute epoxy. The top is Kif' # BS (flO), P. ~

formed by cutting a small circular piece and gluing it in place with 5 minute epoxy. Finish the smoke jack in a dark rust color. 0 196 Soot the top of the smoke jack with a wash of thinned Engine Paint the exterior of the shades with flat black paints such as Black paint. True Test Enamel available at True Value Hardware stores. 0 190 This paint, once dry, will be compatible with Floquil paint. The interior of the shop features a number of details. See the 0 197 photos in the back of this manual to add these details to the Paint all of the lead wires on your lights with this latex paint shop. Behind the hearth you will note an asbestos heat shield. for assured insulation. Do not paint about Y. 11 of the leads to During the time period in.which this sawmill would have allow for soldering the leads to your cable as directed below. existed such a heat shield is appropriate. Find the heat shield 0 198 on Sheet Z3 and paint it gray. Install it and add some "soot" to Paint the lamp shades with a finish color of Coach Green and it. You will also note that a airline tee is located at the base of dust them with your rust powder when they are dry. the hearth on the side towards the door. This is the source of Cl 199 compressed air to increase the heat put out by the hearth. Add See the listing of operational light locations under the 5ound this casting and a small piece of wire to represent the valve System In5tallation section. Use the red magnet wire in your kit control for this air line. to wire these lights. Paint it gray, using a water based paint, to 0 191 represent conduit when the wire shows on the model. The You need to assemble the hood for the smoke stack on this grooved strips on Sheet Z4 when covered with matching structure. It is found on Sheet Z3. You will note its location on colored paper strips are used to install the 6 lights on the main the underside of the roof for the blacksmith shop. sawmill floor. See the photos in the back of the manual. Conduit locations are your preference. There are wire passage r:D" Do not install the hood so it prevents the roof from be­ holes in the main floor and the lower floor for your use. ing removeable. Standard kit circuit boards must be located so the photo-cell bas a direct view of room lighting conditions. Connection Preparino f'he LiQhf'S points Ll to L6 are for lights, while points PI & P2 are for power. Supply 6 volts AC or 9 volts DC for power for this board. \JIRE LEAD PAIR I 0 192 Find the lamp shades in FiOiShiOQ Def'aifS 11- LAMP SHADE your kit. Use a pin vise L BULB INSIDE OF SHADE and a #55 to drill out the neck portion of each Around the diorama you will see a number of details placed Lamps shade. Work slowly! in the scenery. ( - 0 193 L SPLIT END PAIR Remove any flash or 0 200 sprues from the lamp Find the 2 stump castings in your kit. You must use the brands shades with a# 11 X-acto blade. and colors of materials listed here to achieve ultimate realism 0 194 for your metal stumps. Obtain the following materials: Paint the underside of the shade white. CJ 195 BuffTarniya Color Acrylic Paint Floquil Oak Stain Insert a bulb into one ofthe holes drilled in one of your shades. Floquil Natural Pine Stain Position it to mimic the former drilled out neck. Glue it in place Floquil Driftwood Stain with ACC and an instant set solution. Keep the leads well Lacquer Thinner separated to avoid any short later on. 0 201 ~ If you want or need additional lights they are available Start the process by removing any flash and or parting lines under our part # 1250. You must use our lights with on the metal castings with files and a # 11 X-Acto® knife as our system. Other bulbs with the same apparent speci­ necessary. fications have, in fact, proven to 17e sometime~ unus­ 0 202 able with our system. Wash all the castings in lacquer thinner. "Goon Gap sawmill"

0 203 cut with a sharp# 11 X-Acto® blade. All were at least stained When the castings have dried, paint them with the Tamiya with Driftwood stain. Some have wood grain lines added to paint directly from the jar using a l/4" wide brush. When the them. paint bas dried check all the castings for any missed spots. 0 208 Touch up any spots that were missed. Complete coverage is There are a number ofbrass figures in your kit. If you have not essential for good results. Allow the parts to dry over night. already done so, you should paint and install these figures now. 0 204 You ~an see where we placed ours in the photos. Apply a coat of Floquil 0~ Stain to all parts of the castings 0 209 except any parts which represent cut wood. Allow the castings Assemble the power pole as depicted in the Power Pole dia­ to dry for one week. gram. Finish it as described for the other wooden parts in your 0 205 kit. Install it as shown in the photos. Stain the castings with your Natural Pine Stain on all surfaces 0 210 which you previously stained with your Oak Stain. Allow the Add the pigeons to your model at this time. Ours are painted parts to dry over night. Antique White or D&H Gray. Some of them have slight 0 206 touches of Primer to add color variation. Be sure to add some Finish each casting by adding a coat of Driftwood Stain to all pigeon droppings to your roofs with the end of a pin or fine of the surfaces on the castings representing old cut wood. If tipped brush dipped into White paint and applied as depicted you have followed the instructions exactly your stumps will in the photos. Do not overdue this detail. We strongly suggest you be incredibly realistic! use the following alternate method of applying pigeon drop­ pings. Obtain a white oil pastel stick. Use just the very fine 0 207 edge of the stick or a slightly sharpened edge of the stick to There are several instances of wood piles, stacks or leaning add slight small streaks and dots. Practice this on a piece of boards on the model. These were made from the scrap wood paper prior to trying this on your roof. Use a light quick motion pieces between other parts on the laser cut sheets in your kit. for best results. Once you master this technique you will be Some parts have hand broken ends, some have ends which we able to add this detail in seconds to a given model. 0 211 You may also wish to add bits of loose trash made from 'scrap Power Pole paper and other castings when you do your scenery on your -/"'•~ """'""""'"'t' ofoole •••Y model.

1 212 I C - Olt ~,ct: I:IC:t.~t~Un 'roM ~ 15 111' 0 You will note that there are rust streaks from the various -4:--GI ' 1"-~Utore .n r from ed4c: - • "metal" details on the roofs of the buildings in your kit. Be .....---H.31'1d cu: "Tom ~hea I %1~ ' sure to add these use the rust powder in your kit with a fine .. soft brush. Do not overdue this detail.

I 0 213 r Add "soot" to the tops of the chimneys and smoke jacks on the

n.~ "i$ta"~ froM the model using Engine Black paint. : el"<;.e.,tM of tne POl=I:~ to the: ~-· -..- -. c:t'O»poc:ce•C.~G~of 0 214 ve ~t)OOr't. :JO.tn:t~ • 1"6~. ! 0 There is a ladder visible on the jack slip end of the saw mill in

; I the artist's renderings. This ladder needs to appear home made. Use material from your Sheet I strips to make the ladder. The rungs should be about 2' scale length. Finish it as you have the rest ofyour exterior wood pieces and install it on the model.

~ l ! : i! so~nd svstem lnstauatton !! r::ir This section of instruct ions appUes only to Silver Edi~ tion kits. Grovnd L~et ---'--- "GOOO Gap sawmill" Kit" # B5 (FJO ), P.. ~1

additional metal mounting foot which allows you to mount BOARD ASSEMBLy - SIDE VIEW Sound System Assem bl y the board in a horizontal manner using one of the additional SCREW ALTERNATE METAL FOOT LOCATIONCSl --"1 • COrner holeS in the SOund board. Screws are provided for I METAL rom - ROUNDED END I 4 assembling to the printed circuit boards only. You must fasten fi- PLASTIC SPACER (:) ~ ;-_ the metal feet to your mounting location with appropriate ffL LPLASTIC BOARD coNNECTOR __j screws for the material you are mounting to the boards. I METAL fOOT 0 218 ~CREW I SOUND PROCESSOR BOARD r'------' A self test of the sound system in this kit can be performed easily. Silver Editiotz kits have an additional sound informa­ You are about to add the most fascinating feature ever offered tion sheet bound into their instruction manuals. This page is in any structure kit to your model! Almost everything is already immediately following the index page in the back of the done for you and will not require you to be an "electronics manual. Refer to it for the self test and additional information wizard". However, a few important words concerning the on your sound system. sound board are in order. 0 219 ST0P. READ e.AR.EYULLY - ATTAeHIN~ I£M>S TG THE: Your Sound Processor Board includes 4 major R0M chips WRGNAM.A<.U: (the large chips) which store the digitized sound information YGUR SGUND SYSTEM. Attach power leads (not supplied) to for your model. A few smaller components on this board and the power points denoted E4 and E5 on your CPU board. You the standard computer board are not included in this model as must use a 12.6 volt AC, 3 amp transformer (Radio Shack they are not necessary. The boards in your model are designed 273- 1511B) for this system. for applications on different models dependent on the pro­ gramming we supply at our factory. r:7 The ends of the ribbon cable plug are very fragile and in­ stallation must be done carefully. r:r Your sound board (CPU board- also) should never be ex­ posed to intense static electric shocks. This can cause extensive damage to the programming or physical integ­ Install the lights at the locations denoted in the chart below. rity of the electronic components. Those with (LS) are the lights with lamp shades. Use the following list to wire your lights: Your kit includes several additional items which are not found in the basic kit as listed below: Channel Wires Location

I) Sound Processor Board I Brown & Red - Smoke Generator 2) Coiled Wire 3) Sound Adapted CPU (Central Processor Unit) Board 4) Additional Mounting Hardware

The following specific instructions and diagrams are to be used in installing the sound system into your kit. Hours 0 215 Split the ends of the coiled wire using a sharp knife. Now pull the wires apart for about 3" on each end. It is suggested that you keep the center of the wire pair intact to avoid tangling. 0 216 Solder the lead wires to holes El and E2 on your Sound Minutes Proeessor board. The board is clearly labeled SOUND PROC­ ESSOR. 0 217 The 5ound System Assembly drawing depicts the assembly relationship for the Sound Processor board and the ePU board. CPU Board Switches Assemble the boards as shown. However, your kit includes an "COOIJ Gap .SCJWmilf" Kif' # B5 (fj0)/ P .. ?Z -- 2 Orange & Yellow - Loading Dock "day." Example: If you want the model's day to stan at 10 3 Green & Blue Bat- Main Floor minutes past the hour then consult the chart fo r the switch 4 Violet & Gray - Main Floor combination that equals I 0. That combination is 00 l 0 I 0. Set 5 White & Black. - Main Floor the first 6 switches as denoted iri the diagram to set a stan time 6 Brown & Red - Main Floor of I 0 minutes after the hour. Any start time of 0 minutes to 59 7 Orange & Yellow -Main Floor minutes is programmable from the chart. 8 Green & Blue - Main Floor 0 225 Choose the hour you want your model day to stan at. Example: 0 221 If you want to stan at 1 p.m. you would choose 13 (military Split the ribbon cable into the pairs listed to ~ of its length. time) and find a setting of 001101. However, you only want to 0 222 set the LAST FIVE mmts, which equates to 0 II 01. Set the Split each wire pair about 1" at the end. Route each wire pair fi rst 2 digits on switches 7 & 8 of the first dip switch set. Set to its lights location and solder connections. the remaining 3 digits on switches l to 3 on the second dip 0 223 switch set. Only the first 24.codes in the chart work fo r setting Plug your cable into the socket on the circuit board so that the the hour of the day at which your model day starts. wires point away from the circuit board. 0 226 Choose the fast clock setting you will be using on your railroad. If you run a 12 to 1 fast clock then you would choose PROGRRMMING THE COMPUTER 11. Yes, li is correct, since 0 makes no sense to use. Hence, always choose the fast clock setting by choosing 1 number less than that of your actual setting. The choice 11 yields the Coding Chart ·..: r:JT> This section re- numbers 00 I 011. Again you want the last 5 digits which Time Switches Time Switches fe rs to only Sit- 654321 6 5 4 3 2 1 ver Edition kits. equates to 0 l 0 II. Set these on the remaining 5 dip switches. 00 oo o o·o- o· 30 o t.f 1 f o All settings you choose for your fast clock must be made in 01 ooO.oo ·I 31 o 1 r·tYt Before you begin let the 0 to 31 range on the chart. 02 0 0 (}0 10 32 ·100000 us assure you this is 03 o o o·o .(I 33 1 0 0 0 O.J very simple to do! The 04 .SCENERY . o o o_, roo, 34 (OOO 1·0 diagram of the dip 05 000101 35 r o·o oTt switches you will be 06 000110 36 10_0 .1 00 Scenery is one of the single most var­ programming shows 07 00011'1 37 ro 01 o 1 ied subjects that one can discuss in which switches pro- 08 oorooo 38 100110. model construction. Consider the fact 09 001-001 ' 1 o·o -~ ·1 t ' gram the minutes, 39 that the world as a whole is comprised 10 OOIOlO 40 101000 hours and fast clock of many different sceni c fo rms. We II 001011 41 I0100I setting. All 3 are pro- are all aware of plains. mountains and 12 00110.0 42 101010 grammed separately deserts. However, these large catego­ 13 OOllOI 43 101011 using the numerical ries are not inclusive of all possible categories. let alone, sub 14 001110 44 IOf100 programming chart in- categories. The net result being that the world has an amazing 15 00!11I 45 101101 eluded herein. The 16 OlQOOO 46 IOliiO array of possible scenic forms. times you are setting 17 Oiooo·1 47 101 111 have no relationship to 18 0 1 0 0 I 0 48 110000 Modeling the scenic forms found in our world has about as real time, but rather 19 0 l 0 0 1 1· 49 11000I many approaches as there are scenic forms to model. This o. I o··I o o are the relationship 20 50 11 00 I 0 manual presents only a necessarily limited and brief account 21 o I o i oi you want the model to 51 I10011 of our preferred method of scenery construction. Many of you 22 010116 52 110100 run relative to your reading this may have another preferred method that you 23 010111 53 1(0101 own fast time operat- regularly use. If you do, then by all means proceed on your 24 011000 54 110110 ing session. 25 011001 55 1 1 o·i 1 1 own. If you do not, then we suggest you give our method a try. 26 OllOfO 56 111000 Those of you who are interested in a more complete explana­ 0 224 27 01101I 57 111001 tion of this method of scenery construction should consider 28 OliiOO 58 (11010 Choose the minute of purchasing a copy of"How to Build Realistic Model Railroad 29 QIIJOI 59 11101 1 the hour you want Scenery" by Dave Frary. your model to begin its "Goon Gap sawmifl" Kif' # B5 (fiO), P. ??

0 227 0 233 Begin by obtaining some light tan or brown dirt. Find a source Once all the dirt is thoroughly soaked with water you can apply (your yard, a creek bed, etc.) which you can return to and get a mixture of 1/3 white glue to 2/3 water with a drop or two of more dirt as needed. You will find that for modeling purposes dish soap added over all the dirt. We prefer doing this step now it is best to have one basic dirt color throughout your layout. and adding plant life to the terrain later. This is unlike the prototype in many cases, but good transi­ 0 234 tional blending of varying dirts is hard to accomplish in a Add road ruts to the road with the edge of an appropriately model scene, except in instances of man made alterations such sized piece of scrap wood. as roads and gravel pits. Do not choose a dark or yellow color 0 235 for your dirt. Yellow tends to impart a dead look to a scene Now apply ground foam to your liking as depicted in the while dark dirts look too dark under artificial lighting. photos. We try to stay away from bright colors that look 0 228 artificial in a model scene even if they are appropriate in real Sift your dirt through an old layer of panty hose to produce a life. Dull greens, browns and yellows work the best. Start with powder which is as fine as dust. Once sifted you can apply it the fme grades of foam and work up to the coarser grades of to your diorama with a small disposable spoon by gently foam to give an indication of larger weed growth. Remember tapping the side of the spoon. Under most instances you do not not to cover all parcels of terrain evenly with foam or colors want to apply a layer thicker than .20" to the surface you are of foam. Nature tends to be randomly arranged rather than covering. This grade of dirt works best for roads and fairly orderly arranged as we often arrange plants. Our preference is level areas. to use the following order and colors of ground foam from the 0 229 Woodland Scenics line of products: The other areas on our diorama used basically unsifted dirt. However, you must remove obviously oversized "boulders" A) Apply a light dusting of fine Earth foam. and junk from the dirt you are using. B) Apply a moderate dusting of fine T49 mixed Green foam. 0 230 C) Apply a light and random dusting of Burnt Grass foam. Prior to the actual application of dirt it is best to lay down an D) Apply a light and random dusting of Yellow Grass foam. undercoat oflatex paint. We used Sears Camel Tan latex house E) Apply in random groups a combination of coarse Medium paint for our undercoat. The paint should be applied in such a Green, Burnt Green and Light Green foam. manner as to coat the entire surface which will be covered with your dirt. This undercoat will serve as both a "glue" to stick 0 236 the dirt to your diorama and as a close match to the color of Once again we recommend using the glue solution on your the dirt just in case some of it is broken loose. terrain to bond the ground foam in place. 0 237 vr The color of latex paint should be as close as possible Taller weeds can be made with the weed material which is to _your dirt color after your dirt is glued down with the provided in your kit. Simply place a dab of white glue where water and glue mixture described below. you want a weed and then separate one of the three sections and snip off a short piece of weed material and plant it in the CJ 231 glue. Fan the weed out before it dries. Assuming your terrain Apply the unsifted dirt to all areas except your dirt roads. is still wet, the excess will soak into the terrain and the weed Apply the sifted dirt to the dirt roads. will look as though it were growing out of the soil when the terrain is dry. CJ 232 Wet slopes on the diorama slightly if the dirt does not stick to 0 238 them. Additionally, wet all the dirt once it is applied with "wet Install all the castings which you plan to have buried or lying water" which is water with a couple of drops of dish soap in your terrain. Some ofthe castings on our diorama have parts added. Due to the nature of the diorama (a building which is cut or sanded away to make them appear as though they are glued in place) we recommend the use of an eyedropper to buried in the terrain. Other items are just pressed into the apply the water. Application of the "wet water'' with a spray terrain. A drop of white glue below each detail will secure it bottle is suggested by some, but can lead to a warping of in place. After everything is dry, any loose details can be glued wooden structures. permanently in place with 5 minute epoxy. 0 239 Pieces of scrap wood and paper can be added now or when the terrain dries. Be sure to add a few scraps ofp~per to your road. "Goon Gap sawmiff" Ki~ # B5 , P. ?4

0 240 Congraw/ations on completing a model you can be proud of! When your terrain is dry you can dust your road with a mixture of about 2/3 sifted dirt to I /3 of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. Use a clean dry soft brush. Do not glue this material in MADE fN U.S.A. place as the color and effect will change drastically! 10/29/96 5:40:11 PM .. ll?dex of Maf"eriats and Toots Earth 6, 14 Engine Black 13, 23, 28, 30 5 K.rylon Ruddy Brown Primer 8 Brushes Old Silver 27 1/2" Wide - Soft 8 ·Rail Brown 7 - 8, 13, 15,27 114" Wide 8 Rust 28 Disposable 7 True Test Flat Black Latex Enamel29 [3 Weathered Concrete 9 Glues R 5 Minute Epoxy 8, 13, 28 Reducers ACC 20-22 Denatured Alcohol 5 J.B. Weld Epoxy 14 Lacquer Thinner 5, 29- 30 White Glue 4, 33 s M Scenery Products Materials Burnt Grass 33 Barrier (by Floquil) 5 Burnt Green (coarse) 33 Lacquer Thinner 5 Earth (fine) 33 Misc. Green# T49 33 Archer Etchant 7 Light Green (coarse) 33 Blacken-It 6, 19, 21,23 Medium Green (coarse) 33 Dish Soap 33 Yellow Grass 33 Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty 8, 34 Stains Hobbico's Hobbylite Filler 8 Driftwood 6-7, 19,29-30 India Ink 5 Foundation 14 Masking Tape 4 Maple 6 -7 Oil Pastel Stick - White 30 Natural Pine 6, 29 - 30 Paper Towels 4 Oak6-7,29-30 PencilS Rosewood 6 Permanent Marker - rust color 28 Weathering 5 Plastic Container 7 T Silicone Gasket Material 7 Tools Solder 4, 14 600 Grit Sand paper 4 ? Extra Fine Razor Saw 4 Paints HO Scale Rule 4 Antique White 6, 9, 25,30 Jeweler's Files 4- 5 BuffTamiya Color Acrylic Paint 29 Needle Nose Pliers 4 Caboose Red 25 Paint Brushes (assorted) 4 Camel Tan Latex 33 Soldering Iron 4 Coach Green 19,29 Toothpicks 4, 8 Concrete 14 Tweezers 4 D&H Gray 30 Wire Cutter 4 Decoart Antique White 9, 14 X-acto blade (# 11) 4, 30 Decoart Desert Sand # D A77 7, 21 , 23 "Coon Gap sawmill" Kit' # B5 , P. 35

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After you have mstalled all of . Oef'aif sequence 1 the NBW castings, but prior to · placing the bents into the base you need to add a slight bit of rust streaking with your rust powder. Look at the photos to see examples of the rust streaking that you should add to your model. You will also see how the cable is positioned on the slip with excess at each end which will be cut to fit when the slip is assembled with the other portions of the model.

The bottom 2 photos show the general arrangement of floor joists. ·.· ~- ·.. ~-- · · ·. I r- These photos show the subas that comprises the loading portion of the model. It a""''-'Ul' on a base which will result in portion of the model interlocking with other portions exactly. ·

Study the details and their ~· placements as shown in these ' ,., · photos. You will note the intenor shots of the blacksmith shop and the attendant details positioned there.

The speaker is depicted installed in its location just as it will be installed in your building if you are constructing a Silver Edition kit.

There is a light installed in loading building. This is not in the photos, but must be kept in mind prior to final assembly. ._:·.

The boiler house smokestacks do not yet have their smoke generators installed in these photos. They also do not yet have the tops l=~=~=~=~~-of.the smoke stacks

• j ! Use these 'photos -- ~=- =l!!=~and those on ~theiiii next"il""'tl page to visually understand the placement of the various interior components on the second floor of the main structure. ~,...... -.;. ·: .

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special attention to the location of all pieces of equipment. Clearances are minimal at times between components...... -ru ... . eq~ence 1

Pay special attention to all the detailing in each room.

The above 2 photos are of the saw flier's room. The boards being cut and processed · -- have their edges deliberately carved to look more like slabs from logs. The edges are painted a bark color to match the logs. The wood is painted with Decoart Desert Sand to give a fresh sawn wood look.