CB Chelsea Barracks site, design for a mixed-use development by Rogers Stirk Harbour following the abandonment of Richard Roger’s design after Prince Charles’ intervention

Hans Road 12 Harrods: bookshop CP SS < Hans Town with a Queen Anne makeover < architecture, a style mockingly dubbed Pont Sloane Street and nearby A late 19th-century rebuilding of the northern Street Dutch by satirist Osbert Lancaster. Its DE Product design as architecture: 14-16 Hans Road C H E L S E A BUILDINGS CHELSEA PARK AREA AND NEARBY SLOANE ST/CADOGAN SQUARE AREA part of Hans Town (a model Georgian residential houses are best appreciated as a group embassy by Arne Jacobsen, 1977. Its facade BS (Gilston Rd) Bolton Studios, 27 classic artists’ Walton Place and Street quarter on the Cadogan and Smith’s Charity 58-42 Houses by JJ Stevenson, the architect comprises cantilevered stacks of glazed boxes studios built by sculptor Charles Bacon, 1883-8 WP Crisply designed Neo-Classical terraces Estates developed by architect Henry Holland, who coined the label ‘Queen Anne’, 1880s (like giant filing trays), each stack scaled to Chelsea Park Gardens with austere Graeco-Roman detailing; the 1776–). The preference, among clients for Hans Place DE SC St Columba, a white stone edifice with tall match the street’s house widths. The starkness CPG A picturesque scheme in grey and red porches are framed by pilasters with highly individualistic house designs in the fashionable Beauchamp Place WP ‘Scandinavian-modern’ tower and giant arch that of the modular box aesthetic is partly offset by a with rusticated entrances, stone cornices and individual palm-leaf capitals. By George Basevi, quasi-Dutch mode, presaged the end of an urban Walton Place [62] frames its entrance ways. By E Maufe, 1950-4 podium decorated with murals by Danish quite unspoilt front gardens, by EFM Elms & S 1828-30 tradition for regimented terraces St Saviour 33-34 Hans St Cadogan Square painter-sculptor Ole Schwalbe Jupp, 1913-28. Royal Academician Alfred SS English country parish church design Hans Road [PV] The Pavilion, a colonnaded two-storey timber [62] Home of surgeon and amateur etcher, Pavilion Rd 1 SS Munnings lived nearby in no 96, 1920–59 that once looked onto nurseries, by Basevi for 12 Shavian oriel, Renaissance high relief. SS:SC Pont St building with side pavilions, set in grounds by Francis Seymour Haden, late C19 © Donald Smith 15-11 Flats for the ‘working classes’ by Elijah Mendelsohn’s Cohen House – OC:66 Old Church St Chelsea Art School – CS:[AS] Manresa Road J Alexander, c1840 (St Saviour) Elegant red brick house with heavy porch and Capability Brown, 1780. Home of Henry Holland 1 (Hans St) Corner house with elaborate carving, 58-42 Gable watching – SS:72, 70 & 68 Cadogan Square Hoole for Baroness Courtney, 1885. A frieze of WH Massive double-studio house, with a tile-hung deep cornice that impart a sculptural depth to its St Columba 22-26 Amusingly-elevated mix of rough cast, tile by D Brandon for Lord Cranbrook’s son, 1881 Pont Street tiles set end on runs the length of the building GP CS gable end and skewed porch; the interior so facade. By Arthur Mackmurdo, 1894 Sloane Street hanging and half timbering on gabled houses by Bruges). A suitably extravagant design by George CH Cadogan Hall, a Free Byzantine church Park Walk arranged to allow models to reach separate In the same year French officer Alfred Dreyfus Cadogan Square ET Hall. Hand Made Films was based in no 26 for TA de la Rue, the banknote magnate, 1885 building with great expanses of white stone and a SC One of the earliest Chelsea lanes connecting GLEBE PLACE AREA CHELSEA SQUARE AND NEARBY changing rooms unseen. By Norman Shaw for is court-martialed for treason SS:14-16 Hans Road 22-26 28-36 Gabled houses handled with terrace-like 54-58 In a grand Queen Anne manner – tower with cupola set back behind corbelled-out Little Chelsea with the river via Milman Street Glebe Place Chelsea and Carlyle Square Edward and Florence Sherard Kennedy, 1882-4 14-16 Pair of Voyseys in town dress; consistency by the highly influential proto-Arts speculative houses with a giant Ionic order and balustrades, by RF Chisholm, 1908- SJA St John with Andrew, red brick with stone GF Giovanni Fontana’s former garden studio, 40; 41 There’s a touch of Nash about PS Italianate police station also by Shaw, 1895-6 the only truly urban houses by Charles Voysey, and Crafts architect George Devey, design 1886 much fine rubbed-brickwork, by W Young, 1877 WH Collegiate-looking private town house; spire, by Sir Arthur Blomfield & Son, 1912-13 1865; possibly the earliest in Chelsea the grouping of these Neo-Georgian houses by Milner Street designed for Archibald Grove MP, 1891. Red WH 28-36 4 A most welcome Gothic interloper In the same year Crazy Horse and his warriors Lutyenesque, in grey and red brick, with hipped PWS ‘Beacons of the future’. A restrained 1 Francis Bacon lived here in the 1930s Lutyens’ friend and admirer Oliver Hill. For Lord SSZ Eccentric, odd and extreme – brick, with charmingly disposed and varied with a magnificent asymmetrical two-storey fight their last battle with the United States Cavalry red-pantile roof and widely-spaced shuttered PS example of a London Board school in the 71-66 Symmetrical arrangement of studio Vernon and Lady Forres respectively, 1930; 1934 a heavily-buttressed ragstone church with odd windows and cute Shavian oriels; the porches 4 loggia and some charmingly inventive ironwork, 62 House with corbelled balcony and stone windows, by Oliver Hill for Lindley Scott, 1922 SS:WH Walton St non-ecclesiastical Queen Anne style, by ER houses featuring terracotta sunflower motifs CH Unshowy Neo-Georgian ranges mostly by window tracery and a weirdly handled west are ashlar, with a linear Arts and Crafts moulding CADOGAN SQUARE SS:DE Sloane St by arch Gothicist George Edmund Street for the mullioned-transomed windows, by Shaw, 1883 TE Engaging brick telephone exchange; Robson, 1880. Tall, with big gables and chimneys 64-65 Converted Italianate dwelling purportedly Darcy Braddell and Humphry Deane, late 1920s elevation, by Joseph Peacock, 1858-9. Its Hans Place Misses Monk, 1879. Only the use of red brick 68; 72 Fenestration in the Dutch manner; Neo-Georgian, with a pronounced platband and Walton Street as befits a public building, it adhered to a by George Dance and Robert Smirke, –1836 CS Grand end-sections to incomplete terraces equally extreme interior fittings were from St 33-34, 15 Blackened flat-fronted survivors and the restrained window arrangements concede tall gabled mansions with huge windows and small fine stone carvings, by JH Markham, 1929 housestyle influenced by Basil Champney’s 62 Political activist Emmeline Pankhurst gave a built end on to King’s Road, 1840–. Kim Philby Jude in Gray’s Inn Road from Henry Holland’s Hans Town, 1776–. The 50 to the prevailing Queen Anne style panes, by Shaw, 1878-79. No 68 exemplifies his HT ‘By living men for living men’. CadoganSS Square Newnham College, Cambridge speech from a balcony here in February, 1914 lived in one of the villas that complete the square Cadogan Street street shape is modelled on Place Vendôme, Paris 52 50 Gabled house featuring carved brick lunettes masterful use of space with its one-and-a- Accomplished Arts and Crafts church design by The Vale 60-61 Glebe Studios, 1889. Sickert, William In the same year (1840) Queen Victoria marries SM A severe Early English style building in brick Pont Street 54-58 [PV] and other ornaments, by country house architect half-storey rear dining room, shallow mezzanine John Dando Sedding, 1888–. Its west elevation 1 Painter Henry Tonks’ studio house, 1910–37 Rothenstein and Ernest Shepard worked here her cousin Albert von Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha and stone with a bold and lofty interior, by John The street which came to epitomise the vogue of Ernest George for Col AW Thynne, 1885 and full depth living room features two thin towers that frame a giant 19 Handsome Baroque edifice set between less 52-59 Further groups of studios with tall Sydney and Dovehouse Street Francis Bentley, 1877-9. Chapel and alms late 17th-century vernacular Dutch and Flemish > 52 A glorious interpretation of a Flemish window set within an ogee moulding. Its interior The ebullient Michelin Building – DA:81 Fulham Rd assertive Neo-Georgian frontages, 1914 chimney stacks bisecting hipped gables, 1888 SL Earliest groined Gothic Revival church, houses by Edward Welby Pugin, 1850 > SS:52 Cadogan Square SS:WH D’Oyley St Renaissance house (as found in the streets of features a window by Burne Jones 27 Russian izba – and not a peasant in sight. 50 Fanciful Tuscan composition (1985) replacing by James Savage, 1819-24. St Luke’s nave was 62 Milner Street SLOANE STREET A Russian pavilion left over from an international a studio house for sculptor Derwent Wood, by modelled on the chapel of King’s College, Camb. SSZ exhibition forms a surprising centrepiece to two CR Mackintosh or by Wood himself, 1923 DH Entertainingly energetic scrolling to studio DA St Simon K2 RH Halsey Street 68 flanking and beautifully detailed Neo-Georgian 49 Studio house by Mackintosh for painter dormer window, by Austin Blomfield, C20 Zelotes Moore Street 72 KING’S ROAD AND NEARBY ROYAL HOSPITAL AREA houses, c1909; the overly grand izba, 1912 Harold Squire, 1920; its studio remains intact. Manresa Street DRAYCOTT AVENUE AND NEARBY D’Oyley St Elm Park Road 48 Studio house with recessed centre and A street was colonized by an ‘advanced school of Draycott Avenue and Fulham Road From Sloane Square to Oakley Street RA End section to avenue intended as a Mossop St Cadogan Gdns HS Physician and collector Sir Hans Sloane, by Parisian-style triumphal way connecting Royal 74-78 Lofty studio houses for landscape stepped cornice by Arthur Mackmurdo, 1922, artists’ as early as 1870 when Birnie Philip HD Former depository, terracotta clad, with a Cadogan WH painters H Pilleau and P Williams, and the Naftel altered. Augustus John lived here, 1935–40 moved into one of its villas. Merton Villa and dramatic steel and glass storey, 1911; 2002 Hall Baroque sculptor Michael Rysbrack, c1737 (copy) Hospital with Kensington Palace, for William III, RC Italian Renaissance theatre by Walter Emden 1692-4. Joseph Losey lived in no 29. His cult family of painters (no 76), by JP Seddon, 1883 45 Glazed ‘shacks’ (in courtyard) for sculptor Trafalgar multiple studios were built to cater for 81 Building as advertising hoarding. 63- CH Mulberry Walk and Mallord Street Conrad Dressler, built 1886; later designs by less well off artists, by John Brass, both dem. A highly idiosyncratic Art Nouveau flagship office and Bertie Crew, 1888; remodelled/extended by movie ‘The Servant’ was set in the house opposite SS:52 Cadogan Square Sloane Terrace 3 One of a group of houses with varied frontages Voysey for Dressler were never built, 1892 PT Public Library and the second Polytechnic to and tyre centre for the Michelin Tyre Company, Haworth Tompkins, 1994 DS ‘Gin palace turned…tin palace” St Mary TE in grey and red brick, with projecting wooden bays 43a (2, Hans Studios) Mackintosh’s studio, be built in England, both Baroque in red brick with by French engineer François Espinasse, 1911; Ives Street Draycott Terrace 34-38 Spirited mixed-use Neo-Baroque palazzo Playful shopfront design to Chelsea Drugstore and doorcases, by A Cox and FE Williams, 1913 1916–23; his wife and fellow artist Margaret stone dressings, by JM Brydon, 1891– 1986. The building is endowed with wonderful PC Conran shop design by A Faulkner and EW Mountford, -1911 with dashboard-polka dot coding, by Garnett 81 Bookshop HT V An austere, utilitarian, stripped-Classical design Macdonald had the adjoining studio. murals and stained glass by Ernest Montaut Sloane AvenueHD SM PJ Revolutionary flagship store, Cloughley Blakemore, 1968-, altered; the store [AS] Art school building, faced in white mosaic, Fulham Road SS:4 Cadogan Square SS:68 Cadogan Sq Holy Trinity SS:CH Sloane Terrace by William Crabtree with CH Reilly for the concept was inspired by the legendary Le with paired windows and stone door surrounds, Mackintosh’s designs for a block of studios and with single-storey wings, by Hubert Bennett and PC Pelham Crescent and Place, by George DRAYCOTT AVENUE innovative retailer Spedan Lewis, 1932-36, refurb. Drugstore on Boulevard St Germain, Paris. for Danish artist Arild Rosencrantz, 1913 studio flats along here were never built his team at London County Council, 1965. Site Basevi in the style of his Walton Place terraces, Draycott Avenue Site of 2 A severe Lutyenesque ‘vernacular’ NV Intriguing Voysey-Mackintosh pastiche. redeveloped, 2010- for Smiths Charity Estate, 1828-30 or 1833-41. Wellington 2004. A near continuous run of glass at ground Deliveries were made by young ladies wearing with a witty anthropomorphic bay and a punning Courtyard house by architect James Gorst, 1996 63-81 Portico to electrical company’s premises, Ground SS:HT Sloane St floor level optimises window display space purple catsuits riding flashy motorcycles Cadogan Gdns Sloane Square RC frieze of a hunting scene, by Ralph Knott for the 35 An exemplary studio house design, with giant pillars decorated using Basevi’s HS Sloane 25 Witty, Japanesy cornerhouse design, In the same year (1968) The first student Cadogan Street writer and anthologist Cecil Hunt, 1911 much admired by Lutyens, by Philip Webb for palm-leaf motif, by C Stanley Peach, 1924-5 PJ Square with tall oriel bays (flattened on the side elevation) protests spark the Polish political crisis 28 Studio house by the young De Stijl designer George Pryce Boyce, 1871;76. Though featuring Cale Street and Pond Place DA Peter Jones capped by curving Shavian cornice, by Arthur 25 Luxurious interior by John Fowler with Robert van’t Hoff for Augustus John, 1914. gauged brick detailing, brick lesenes, white ST Oppressive-looking tenement blocks, by ECP 34- Mackmurdo for painter-etcher Mortimer Menpes, staircase by Philip Jebb, 1795 Gracie Fields bought the house in the 1930s sashes and stone pilasters framing the doorway, Monson for the Sutton Trust, 1913; those of the Elystan Street SAM 25 1892-9. Whistler’s nose was put out of joint by the Royal Hospital interior’s elaborate Japonisme RH A home for heroes the house’s essential rationalism distinguishes it Samuel Lewis Trust (SL) lie nearby, 1912-15 J Sandoe’s Lower Sloane Street DYS Shopping precinct as town square – by Christopher Wren with Nicholas Hawksmoor OC from the picturesque Queen Anne Revival style of PH Adroitly-designed mansion block with Nouveau- DA:63 Pelham St bookshop KINGS2P ROAD with children playing, by Paul Davis & Ptnrs, 2003. assisting, 1682-92. English Renaissance with Basevi’s St Saviour – SS:SS Walton Street Philip Webb’s West House – GP:35 Glebe Place Shaw and others. The Society for the Protection ish ironwork, by Joseph & Smithem, 1906 DUKE OF YORK Pond Pl PH SL DYS OLD CHURCH STREET of Ancient Buildings was founded here Sloane Avenue 2P Two Pupils sculpture by Allister Bowtell, 2004 Baroque motifs, the hospital initially comprised Using the map Select the place of the map 155 Home of sporting painter John Sartorius, C18 36a Early Board school by ER Robson, 1872 SAM Ocean liner metaphor. 4 Fashion store in converted chapel, featuring a the Great Hall, Chapel and two residential wings who wish to explore, such as Glebe Place, 143-145 Two cottages that once stood alone at Cheyne Row Towering Art Deco apartment block with double-helix staircase, by ADM for Jigsaw, 2004 set around an open courtyard. On the site of an 4 labelled GP. Refer to the column headed GP F 19 cm to 1 km/12 inches to 1 mile the edge of Chelsea Park, late C18; since 1901, HR Wrennian Catholic church by E Goldie, 1895 recessed balconies and deep platbands, by DYB ‘Grand Old Duke of York’, block with Roman uncompleted college founded by James I, 1610 34-16 Remnant of Old Dutch Chelsea. George Kay Green, in a style surely influenced by DYB Doric portico, originally a home for soldiers’ SB Stable block by John Soane, 1814. In stock for captions to buildings etc. Numbers/letters the home of the Chelsea Arts Club, 1891– Ixworth Place ST refer to house numbers/names or descriptors A Queen Anne terrace built in the gardens of House by Oliver Hill – CS:40 Chelsea Square Joseph Emberton’s Empire Hall (Olympia 2), 1933 DA:81 Fulham Road Chelsea DA:HD Dryct Av DA:SM Sloane Avenue K2:25 Cadogan Gdns K2:PJ King’s Road children, by John Sanders, 1801-03; now the brick featuring giant arches, the centre one 68 From Bauhaus to our house. Elystan Pl Saatchi Winchester House, by Elbrow Glentworthy, 1708. Green Saatchi Gallery, 2008– opening into a courtyard, while those at the side Modernist composition of interlocking white 4 Gallery K1 blocks by Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius and Thomas Carlyle lived in no 24, 1834–81: ‘It is a 4 Karl Marx stayed in this street in 1848 start larger and diminish in size [ ] Demolished/erased/rebuilt/unbuilt Cale Street 9 John le Carré’s character George Smiley lived SO Secretary’s office with Soanic chimney, 1819 Maxwell Fry for playwright Benn Levy and his remnant of genuine old dutch Chelsea, looking Bywater Street in this ‘cul-de-sac exactly one hundred and [WH] Robert Walpole’s house, part conversion of KING’S ROAD AND NEARBY actress wife Constance Cummings. Part of the out mainly on trees. We might see at half a mile Markham? Street Site of formal gardens Markham Square Westwards of Oakley Street slated area was originally an open balcony, 1935 distance Bolingbroke’s Battersea.’. Restored by seventeen of his own paces long’. Houses, 1840 Wren’s stable block, by Vanbrugh, 1714-. Its 9 Artists’ quarters 211 Neo-Palladian ‘dwelling house’, In the same year Le Corbusier lectures in the CR Ashbee as a museum, 1895. National Trust 138a Former Bazaar, the iconic boutique where orangery survives as a library and chapel

ADM Interior Architecture Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt, 1955 RG Gardens by John Gibson, c1860, where Royal works with a centrepiece comprising a Doric portico US and doesn’t like what he sees 12 Charles Vyse’s picturesque pottery studio St Luke 138a K2:4 Duke of York Sq 152-154 Flamboyant Louis XV facade Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens stood (1742–1803). linked to the balcony of a pedimented central 66 Complementary composition, 2 Charming sun motif above doorway, c1715 SL K2:224 King’s Road K2 DS Church/chapel/hall window. The ornaments are stone, as is the with a Constructivist window arrangement, for Oakley Street Sydney Street Royal Avenue29 to manoir (The Pheasantry) for Joubert, Amédée It included a canal [CA] with Chinese pavilion and cornice; the rest is grey brick, which in the émigré publisher Denis Cohen and his family, by [34] Phené House, an extraordinary edifice & Son, decorators and cabinet makers, 1765–; a giant Rotunda [RO], by William Jones and scene- Municipal building/museum K2:152 King’s Rd opinion of the architect ‘makes a beautiful Expressionist architect Erich Mendelsohn and decorated with busts and writhing figures, by Dr RA front 1881. Eric Clapton escaped arrest on drug painter Capon. Horace Walpole wrote soon after Commercial/retail harmony of colours’. By the Venetian architect Chechen-born British architect Serge Chermayeff, John Samuel Phené, scholar, antiquarian and charges by fleeing out of the back the gardens opened, ‘It has totally beat Vauxhall 161 Former Beatles’ Apple Tailoring shop, 1968 .... You can’t set your foot without treading on a Giacomo Leoni for John Pierene, 1723. Leoni 1935-6. Conservatory by Norman Foster, 1970s local developer, c1905, dem early 1920s 152- Place of learning/library/hall published a lavish, if adulterated, English edition 125-129 Houses purportedly used as part of a Lawrence Street OC:V Mulberry Walk OC:2 Mallord Street OC:117 Old Church St CS:SL Sydney Street K2:DYS King’s Rd RH:LH Light Horse Court 180-182 Side elevation to Gaumont cinema, Prince, or Duke of Cumberland’ Chelsea Square influenced by the work of Dutch Modernist Willem GS Proto-Doric garden shelter, by Soane, 1834 Place of entertainment of Palladio’s treatise in 1716. Lady Sibyl Colefax brothel. Nos 125-127 were once the studio of 23-24 Oversize pedimented portico thought to CH Waterstones RH:NI Infirmary Dudok, by WE Trent and EF Tulley, 1934, conv GH Gordon House by Thomas Leverton, 1810-18 lived here, 1922-37 ceramicists William and Evelyn de Morgan have come from Monmouth House terrace [MH] K2:180- King’s Road NI CS 224-226 Baroque bank with Hawksmoorian [RH] Ranelagh House, possibly by Wren, c1690 Mansion/large house 213-215 Perfect English Renaissance 117 Studio house with brick pilasters and three [16] Charles Gouyn and Nicholas Sprimont’s 155 houses, possibly 1720. Carol Reed lived in no gables; an unusually sober design by Halsey Chelsea Porcelain Works, c1745–84 CHELSEA SQUARE 25© John Bignell BURTON’S touches, by Reginald Blomfield, 1909 NI New Infirmary by Quinlan & Francis Terry, -2008 St Leonard’s Terrace Houses/studio houses/studios Fulham Road Manresa Road K2:138a COURT, 1690s VH Early ‘Wrenaissance’ costume 213 after WWII, with Judy Garland renting in 1960 Ricardo for painter C Maresco Pearce, 1914-15 Sloane House DH Smith Street 180- Radnor Walk King’s Rd for Vestry Hall, with a hint of Queen Anne in its Houses/studios in range/terrace 239 Illustrator Charles Keene lived here, 1879–. 115 Swell-looking studio houses, with giant SO Elm 40 Temperance K1:211 King’s Road [RH] His draughtsmanship was much admired by Degas pilasters set between a splendid pair of segmental 143- Museum lining, by John Brydon, 1885-7 Dovehouse Street Hall, 1912 Large block: office/flats/tenements Flood Street RH shop THB English Renaissance clothing also for the 271 Former Clytie Jessop Gallery where David bays, for portraitist John DaCosta, 1915 68 41 K2:TH King’s Rd RH:GS Garden Shelter Hockney prints were sold to support the 111 MI6 trained Baltic émigrés here, 1950s PT town’s bathers, by Wills & Anderson, 1907 Factory/yard/workshop/store Park Gardens OLD CHURCH STREET 224- 161 Shawcross Street TH Neo-Baroque town hall modestly scaled and in defenders at the Oz trial, 1971 58 Historicist elevation to deep infill building; its Residential Wing [RO] Proud College 66 Chapel sympathy with Brydon’s work, by L Stokes, 1908 Work of engineering/public utility In the same year Protesting farmers take three domed rotunda set in an arcaded portico, by Old Gallery Court 125 THB Ormonde Gate live cows to crash EEC meeting in Brussels Anthony Collett Ass, 1993 burial 181-183 Heavily mansarded gallery studios, by Notable personality [AS] TH BB Two narrow barrel-vaulted houses set behind 53 Home of the young John Betjeman, 1917–24 ground FC Kennedy & Nightingale for Jack Knewstub’s Gilston Road VH Great Hall Chenil Galleries, 1905. Trading ceased in 1927 other properties, by Niall Mclaughlin, 2000s 48 Offices and flats set around a courtyard with Figure Published by Flâneur Guides in folded and wallchart form. OC KINGS ROAD Residential Wing 181- [PR] Court 197 Lofty ‘Old English’ public house with two Plans derived from out-of-copyright Ordnance Survey mapping, PS Elongated square off King’s Road, curved ramp, by Professor Joseph Rykwert, 1972 117 Old Church Street ROYAL HOSPITAL storeys of Shaw’s oriels, by Crickmay, possibly updated using original material. one of many that brought together people with 46a Pink Floyd made their first recording here 197 LH © Christopher Lumgair, 2011. www.flaneurguides.com the same general calling and position, 1836. No Elm Park Road RH GR, for whom Thomas Hardy worked, 1901 BS CP:27 The Vale 74- 115 211 CP:23-21 The Vale K1:384- King’s Rd GP:NV Glebe Pl CS:DH Dovehs St 213- Oakley St K2:VH King’s Road RH:GH Gordon House SB RH: SB Stables Light RH:SO Office [CA] GS Royal Hospital – RH:FC Figure Court 6 retains its original studded front door Carlyle Daunt Horse LITTLE CHELSEA Square 330-340 Segregated Art Deco motor garage, Books 111 1 [GF] Paradise Row Court RANELAGH GARDENS RG Carberry who, according to Pepys, was ‘one of LR by Robert Sharp for the Bluebird Motor Company, 1 2 1923-4. The largest in Europe when built, its side 3 V 71- Army the lewdest fellows of the age’, 1707 CS Museum LOTS ROAD AND NEARBY wings contained waiting rooms and lounges, the 239 64- (Paradise Row) 34 Red brick house that was once graced by CHELSEA PARK Mulberry Walk Glebe Place AM The Vale [GH] 75 Chelsea’s sole surviving art school latter segregated for ladies, owners and 62 <[WH] Oscar Wilde and his new wife Constance, CA Chelsea Academy, by Fielden Clegg chauffeurs. Closed 1927. Now a ‘gastrodome’ 28 K2:181- King’s Road Christ [Garden 1884-95. Its interior was ‘transformed’ by 60- Bradley Studios, 2010. Linked blocks with 384-372 Picturesque social housing; half- 271 Church 34 to Gough Godwin. Terrace by Butler & Beeston, 1879-80 CP:15- Chelsea Pk Gdns Mallord Street House] timbered effect in brick with a Gothic arcade of 52- Cheyne Gdns 44 ‘…reminiscences of Holland’. plain elevations of ‘scrubbed’, lime mortared CP 19 CC 44 GH Tite Street brick and roof terraces that provide external shops; by Elijah Hoole, 1885 Studio house in red and yellow brick, by Godwin 58 Royal Hospital Road 46 430 Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s Park Walk Beaufort Street 27 GP:24 Chyn Rw TS:AM RH Rd for the unstable portraitist Frank Miles, 1878. recreational spaces on a tight site St John Chelsea15-11 GP:50 Glebe Place TS:13 Embnk Oakley Gdns TITE STREET PS Cathedral to electricity. Redevelopment by Teddy Boy store Let It Rock opened here, 1971 SJA GLEBE PLACE Oakley St Godwin’s original design was Japanese in feel, an CP:SJA Park Wlk FC Old Rectory 31 Terry Farrell & Ptnrs of a defunct power station MC Moravian chapel or hall (1751–70) with burial 50 [34] abstract pattern of rectangles relieved by C17– 35 49 33 by JR Chapman for the American financier ground, built on the site of the stable yard to K1 48 [35] terracotta ornaments. Godwin introduced “a Bluebird motor garage – K1:330- King’s Road Old Church Street 45 Charles Tyson Yerkes, 1905; it was the most Beaufort House. Now studios (late C20) CPG 330- Paultons Square 53 NV [SW]TS TS:3 Embankment TH:AB Thames Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens – RH:[RO] Rotunda number of reminiscences of Holland”, to gain 43a [58] 37 powerful in the world when built, supplying [488] ‘Granny takes a trip’ boutique. A car Pk Gdns96 planning permission. A Japanese-style staircase 6 48 36a current to the tube lines that Yerkes controlled bonnet protruded from its frontage, 1966. The FR Upper Cheyne Row Dilke Street7 3 TS and inglenook (with window) graces its interior BB GP TS:37 Tite Street In the same year MS Dreadnought is laid ebullient-looking World’s End Distillery building with PS 46a Holy Rdmer GP:35 Glebe Place RS 46 Tower House, studio flats with double-height KINGS ROAD HR PG 6-4 Chelsea Embankment Carlyle’s © Country Life [RH] 8 TITE STREET AREA storeys with mezzanines and a communal down triggering a naval arms race its bows and flourishes lies opposite, 1897 FULHAM ROAD AND NEARBY [MH] [Great LP THE THAMES House 5-1 11-9 Lawrence Street Cheyne Row CW:[42] Cheyne Walk Chelsea’s first Queen Anne Revival quarter kitchen; by Godwin, 1867. The builders, Denton, [CG] Cremorne Gardens. An entertainment WE Controversial tower blocks, by the team who CC1 Byzantine-style college buildings, including K1:MC Milmans St 384- 23-4 Garden] park opened by Renton Nicholson, 1842–77. created the human-scale Span estates of the an Octagon and cruciform neo-Norman chapel, [16] 34-16 Chelsea Embankment Son & North, adapted Godwin’s design, 1884-5 PWS [Church Lane] [SH] Whistler’s painting of a firework display here 1950s, 1967-77. Christine Keeler gave the place for Chelsea College, 1842-7. By Scottish GP:2 Chyn Rw [NMH] 13 A splendid row of individualistic red brick houses 31 John Singer Sargent’s house 12 Mews led to his disastrous spat with Ruskin. The much needed allure when a tenant in 1973 architect Edward Blore who was brought to CP:CPG Pk Gdns Limerston Street [18] 16 17 for those with artistic leanings, 1874– with a ‘beautiful, high, cool studio opening upon a CHEYNE WALK BF [Manor [42] 17 Neo-Georgian – Old English style. balcony that overhangs a charming Chelsea gardens were laid out on the grounds of 550 Recently restored compact double-pile. prominence when he completed Nash’s work on MC House] 2 39-[37] 30-27 A mansion-sized house with jettied storey Viscount Cremorne’s house (by James Wyatt, A Late Restoration house built for William Stanley, Buckingham Palace Beaufort St 48-46 Cheyne Walk green garden’: Henry James. By R Edis for Frank Danvers St Old village achieved through the use of a pioneering Dicey, 1879–. Left wing by Theis & Khan, 2006 1778), on land previously Chelsea Farm 1691; symmetrical (externally at least) and based SS Early secondary education school, a slightly 430 CW:CH Cheyne Walk of Chelsea CE ‘skyscraper’ iron skeleton. Built for the aptly 33 The Studios, by Edis, 1880. Home of GW Decorative iron entrance gateway on a 15ft module, the house has two principal mannered design on three floors adapted from 28 CW CM Milmans St NV to pleasure garden moved from King’s Road floors of equal grandeur, a basement, attic and the elementary school type, by TJ Bailey, 1908. named solicitor-client Wickham Flower in 1875-7, Whistler (1881–5) and Augustus John (1940–58) Allen Hall 63-62 Cheyne Walk TS CP CR Rusting lozenge-shaped hulks, hipped roof with balustraded terrace and cupola Redevelopment and new building by Dixon Jones Sloane Stanley Estate CW:28 Beaufort St the wooden oriels were modelled on those on the [58] Double-studio brick house with exposed [BH] Petyt Pl AS HS CC2 Neo-Georgian additions to former Chelsea CS Elegant two-storey school with pedimented dev. 1850s DW 17th-century Sparrowe’s House in Ipswich gambrel roof, tall chimneys and a three-storey dismantleable boating centre buildings clad in Langton Street [75-72] TM CorTen steel, by Sarah Wigglesworth, 2008 College, by Beazley & Burrows, 1910; 1923 wings featuring Serlian windows, 1937 13 Voysey door and interior. Garden Corner canted bay facing the river, by Godwin for Archie CFS [DH] TH Images Hulton Archive/Getty by I’Anson for Emslie Horniman MP, 1879, 1906. Stuart-Wortley and Charles Pellegrini, 1879-80 K1:WE King’s Rd CH CW:TS Chyn Wlk AB CW:38 Cheyne Walk CW:16 Chyn Wlk © Country Life Whistler’s White House – TS:[35] Tite Street [GH] Albert Bridge The lettering and ironwork on the front door are a [35] The now demolished White House. Gunter Grove Cheyne Walk Quirky Lutyens country house – CW:[42] Cheyne Walk SS delight as is the largely intact interior with its A highly original teaching atelier-cum-studio [488] 94-91 Hortensia Road < moved from Bishopsgate and re-erected in 1910 63-62 Restoration terrace (extant section). < TS Shelter for the drivers of hansom cabs, 1875- panelling, fireplaces and stairs. No access house with a Japanesy gambrel roof, by Godwin TH CW WORLD’S END WE 100-95 FULHAM ROAD on land once part of Sir Thomas More’s orchard. Prospect Place by Sir Thomas Lawrence, c1686, 30-27 Part-crescent with tented balcony, c1860 PG London’s oldest botanic physic garden, for James McNeill Whistler, 1877-8, dem 1968. THE THAMES CHEYNE WALK AND NEARBY CHEYNE WALK Much is original; the stone-clad walls are not. re-faced. Holman Hunt lived in no 5 on the corner [NMH] Henry VIII’s Chelsea Place, divided into quarters; the south-east still with its The roof was hidden and Queen Anne details AB Delicately traceried iron toll bridge, CC1 119 Turner’s old riverside house, WH The original scheme, including the mansion’s of Lawrence St where he painted ‘Light of the (New Manor House), by Reginald Bray or William original ‘systematic order’ beds. Founded by the added to gain planning consent. Its white facade 109 by Derby engineer Rowland Mason Ordish, CS a three-storey cottage, one bay wide, where reproduced south wing, by Walter Godfrey, World’ in a room overlooking the river, 1851– Sandys, c1519, dem. 1750s. Henry VIII bought it Society of Apothecaries, 1673 and vertical grouping of Italian motifs was a 1873; employing the patented straight chain Edith Grove William Turner lived in retirement with his partner 1908, altered when built; the north wing, 1927 CM Henry James lived in these undistinguished as a wedding present for Catherine Parr and to [SW] An abandoned scheme for a terrace in curious mix of the oriental and the Regency [OBB] suspension system he had used on the FR Sophie Booth, 1846–51. He had the roof [DH] Arguably England’s first Italianate villa, mansions in 1913; ‘This Chelsea perch, this be near Thomas More. Its Stuart wing was to Swan Walk by Voysey, pre 1891 37 A sort of Secessionist edifice in red and FR:CS Hortensia Road 119 Franz-Joseph Bridge (spanning the Moldau in converted into a large balcony from which he for the regicide Sir John Danvers, 1623, dem. haven of sage and seagull, proved, even after a become Winchester House, 1639, dem. 1825 11-9 Speculative houses by Shaw, 1880 yellow-grey limestone, by Tony Fretton for the Prague), Albert Bridge was admired more for could observe the river. Restored, with added c1720. Described by Pepys as ‘the prettiest brief experiment, just the thing for me.” Also the [18] Don Saltero’s celebrated coffee house that 8 A playful disposition of motifs Hamlyn family, 2000s. ‘The building should be on a near symmetrical, three-gabled house; by its fine tracery than its mode of construction studio, by Ashbee for Max Balfour, 1898 CW:[DH] Danvers St contrived house that I ever saw in my life’. home of TS Eliot, Ian Fleming and Erskine Childers was stuffed full of curiosities given him by his dumb on the outside and reveal its wealth only on [OBB] Old Battersea Bridge by Henry Holland 109 Painter Philip Wilson Steer’s house, –1942 AR Doughnut-shaped Albion Riverside across the 48-46 Queen Anne period terrace houses in former employer, Sir Hans Sloane, 1718– Shaw for Mrs Erskine Wemyss and her family the inside:” Adolf Loos (whose own exteriors are for the Earl of Spencer; a low-cost timber CC2 MV Wedge-shaped Montevetro sited across the Cheyne Walk NBB river, by Foster & Ptnrs, 1998-2003 brown brick with red dressings, 1711; no 46 is 16 ‘Impedimented’ Late Baroque. 6-4 Houses by Edward Godwin for speculators easier on the eye than this specimen). Its rooftop WR:CC1 Fulham Road structure, originally of 19 spans of varying river, by Richard Rogers Ptnrs, 1994-2000 CW:94 Cheyne Walk Battersea Bridge CW:AS Cheyne Walk [75-72] Houses by CR Ashbee, 1896-, dest the least altered. Mick Jagger and Marianne An assertive five-bayed pedimented house in the Gillow & Co, 1876-8. A heavy Doric entablature viewing chamber, however, is a delight widths, supported by piers of massive [GH] Sir Arthur Gorges early Stuart house, c1617 100-95 Chelsea’s earliest surviving mansion: [BH] Beaufort House, built over Thomas More’s WWII. These were not dissimilar in style and Faithfull lived in no 48 in May 1969 style of the ‘Continental Baroque’ architect slices through their bays uniting the three houses. 550 Dilke Street T-beams, 1766-72, dem. 1885. Turner, KINGS ROAD CFS Six studios above flats, C20 MV remodelled from a Tudor house for the Earl of additions to his medieval mansion, c1570, dem. scale to nos 39-38 (further east) which they [42] Quirky late-Lutyens country mansion Thomas Archer; built by John Witt, 1717; the A timid treatment, for Godwin, but saleable 7 Home of the London Sketch Club, 1957– Whistler and many other painters Lindsey, c1674; attic heightened/mansarded, 1740. Its archway by Inigo Jones (1621) was AR predate. Ashbee and Holden’s proposal for a tall with a most stylish staircase and imaginative central bay is a later addition. Rossetti, George LP London Peace Pagoda across the river, 1985 In the same year The Soviet Union launches immortalized the bridge’s charms 1752. The entrance and bay window to the moved to Chiswick House by Lord Burlington block of studio flats here came to nothing, c1897 wallpapering, for spymaster Guy Liddell and his Meredith and Swinburne all lived here, 1828– 3 Royal Dutch – Sputnik 1, the first satellite to orbit the earth NBB New Battersea Bridge by Joseph National Trust owned no 100 are by George 28 A rather beautiful chapel with a huge gridded AS A Stuart rebuild of a medieval church. wife the Hon Calypso Baring, 1930, dem. 1934. In the same year (1717) Netherlands, England a most imposing seven-bay brick corner house Christchurch Street Bazalgette, 1890; uniting ‘Chelsea, the home Devey; the gardens to nos 99 and 100 are by west window, by architectural historian Professor All Saints (Chelsea Old Church). Sensitively Ashbee previously designed (c1911) a and France sign the Triple Alliance with elaborate west elevation and Dutch gables CC Christ Church, Gothic Revival church with a of sages, with Battersea, the home of Lutyens and Jekyll Hector O Corfiato, 1959. It displaced two garden restored war-damaged riverside church (C13–), gargantuan block for this site where Shrewsbury 5-1 Substantial 18th- and 19th-century loosely modelled on those on George III’s Kew Palladian symmetry, by Edward Blore, 1836 GW CR Bolingbroke’’: Lord Rosebery 94-91 House worthy of Robert Adam. studios by the ‘muscular Gothicist’ William with a most evocative interior. Its south chapel, House [SH] had once stood, 1519–1813 properties. The iron gate, railings and urns of no Palace of 1631; by church architects Bodley & Royal Hospital Road CE Westward extension of Thames A most charming group of brick houses featuring Burgess for Louise and Joe Jopling, 1879. A dedicated to Sir Thomas More and decorated by DW Atlanta, by Francis Derwent Wood, 1929 5 were probably taken from Lindsey House when Garner for JC Dundas, 1876-9 [PR] Paradise lost and regained. Terrace of 16th- [CG] Embankment, by Joseph Bazalgette, 1877; it Venetian windows, shallow-arched entranceways section of wall to More’s garden lies to its rear Holbein, boasts some fine Early Renaissance 39-[37] Georgian re-interpreted, Count Zinzendorf renovated the property, 1750–. Tite Street and 17th-century houses, including Ormond was built to contain a main drainage sewer for and elegant balconies, 1771-77. The carriage- CP Cadogan Pier, built to handle the steamboat carvings. Brick exterior, nave and tower, by Ashbee, 1894–. In soft red brick with George Eliot and painters Dyce and Maclise all A once fashionable artists quarter that Whistler House, that was eventually to turn into a slum. All house to the Adamesque house (no 92), was traffic to and from London Bridge, 1841 was instrumental in forming, 1877–. Wilde the western part of London which would WR:GW Lots Rd WR:CR Lots Rd 1667-74; chancel, C13; chapels, C14. Restored attentuated openings, the central house features lived in no 4 at one time. Keith Richards and Anita dem –1906. The Duchesse of Mazarin, mistress discharge at Barking Creek. In 1895, converted into studio for George Hatchett, c1891 CH Re-erected Tudor Great Hall, by Walter Godfrey, 1949-58 an asymmetrical rough cast gable with circular Pallenberg lived in no 3 in 1969. No 1 was rebuilt thought the street ‘must always be full of of Charles II, retired here with Sr de St Egremont residents to the west of Battersea Bridge Chelsea Academy – LR:CA Lots Road Lots Road WR:PS Lots Road CREMORNE Stanley Grimm and George Leach both worked once part of Crosby Place, a courtyard mansion NV Neo-Georgian vicarage and hall in buff and window, the roofline ‘borrowed’ from the in 1887 using bits from Old Radnor House [RH] wonderful possibilities’ after seeing a vision of AM Sections of the Berlin Wall beside the suitably succeeded in retaining their picturesque 75 here, 1965– built for the wealthy grocer Sir John Crosby and red brick, by John Simpson & Ptnrs, 2000s waterside houses that had stood on the site. No RS (Flood Street) Rossetti studios, red brick Lady Macbeth outside Sargent’s studio robust-looking and coded frontage of the National LR Jettied Old Swan House – TS:17 Embankment frontage through successful petitioning A F L Â NEUR GUIDE Lots Road WH James Whistler, by Nicholas Dimbleby, 2005 which Richard III once rented, 1466. The hall was > TM Thomas More, by L Cubitt Bevis, 1969 37 was Ashbee’s office and his mother’s home > building with bartizan, by Edward Holland, 1894 [GH] Gough House, for John Vaughan, Earl of Army Museum, by W Holford & Ptnrs, 1968-70 LOTS ROAD CA PS