Tours Savannah, GA - Shamrock Tour® Low Country Slow

12 RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Tours

Kathy and I have heard many tales about Savannah, Georgia’s great food, fun pubs, and its arts atmosphere for years. And though many Southern sojourns have taken us tantalizingly close, the quick going-elsewhere spell of the super-slab has always prevailed. Until now our glimpses of the grand, old city have been relegated to the green blurs of exit signs rushing by on Interstate 95.

Text: Chris Myers Photography: Chris and Kathy Myers

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 The Savannah National Wildlife Refuge will appeal to any nature lover.

Twice a year, after my mom and truss bridge is gone, replaced by a As we accelerate rapidly into the Tdad loaded the dog and me into the much higher and stunning cable-stayed light,A morning traffic heading north back of the Volkswagen Beetle, we’d span. I-95 now passes ten miles west of across the Talmadge Bridge, we start head north from Miami to visit family town, erasing the gridlock that incited climbing. With its vertical clearance in West Virginia. Somewhere around so many angrily harrumphed words. standing 185 feet above the shimmer- Jacksonville dad’s grumbling would But what’s exciting is that Kathy and I ing river, the viaduct noses the C14 begin, and though my young ears have finally broken free of the Inter- skyward at what seems an airliner’s weren’t privy to most of his hissed mut- state routine and honored our long- take-off trajectory and accordingly, as tering, I always managed to pick up a standing promise to pay this town a we reach the crest of the bridge, I choice word or two. Back in those proper visit. inform Kathy that the use of approved days, the early 1970s, the Interstate electronic devices is now permitted and hadn’t been completed through Geor- It’s Pronounced Byoo-fert that the stewards will soon be walking gia, and the old highway funneled Arriving a day early, we’ve had the aisle serving refreshments. She asks traffic through the city’s downtown and Asome time to walk around and get a me for some peanuts and a Coke. across the narrow Talmadge Bridge feel for the place, and there’ll be over the Savannah River. Dad never ample opportunities to stroll the invit- The morning sun climbing above wasn`t much for stops while traveling, ing, colonial town over the next few theT Atlantic is casting a warm, golden and that situation always called for evenings. However, the Concours 14 luster upon the marsh grasses; and from plenty. On the other hand, I thought is looking a little neglected in the Best the elevated roadway, running just feet Savannah was a cool diversion from Western Promenade parking lot this above these wetlands, it’s understood the endless concrete drone. morning, and we have a highlighted why this region is called the Low Coun- map in hand and a loaded GPS spur- try. The slow rise and fall of the ocean My how things have changed in ring us to make a few tarmac miles in tides has created placid byways of dark, Savannah.M That old, rusty cantilever Savannah’s surroundings. glassy water that wind through the beige

14 RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Tours stalks. The humid air has a briny redo- lence. Happy to be on the road, expe- riencing something new, we drink in all the unfamiliar sensations.

As we bear right on Route 170, the lowlandsA give way to groves of tall pines and clumps of gnarled live oaks. We’re in South Carolina now, and I see a sign that helps shed more light on Dad’s aversion to the area. Up ahead is the gate to Parris Island and the Marine Corps Recruit Depot. Shortly after grad- uating high school, he spent thirteen long weeks here. He said it was hot.

Mid-morning we roll into Beaufort Mjust in time to re-supply our caffeine stores. North Carolina has a coastal Beaufort too, so I ask the girl in the coffee shop if this one is pronounced the same. “It’s NOT Boe-fert, y’all say it all wrong up there, it’s Byoo-fert.” Fair enough (even though when said that way I’ll always be flashing on the  The desire for a plate of shrimp is easily inspired around here. burly image of Sheriff Pusser). No matter the vernacular, Beaufort is a  Beaufort’s quiet streets are the picture of Southern charm. charming, waterfront town well worth exploration. Founded in 1711, it is the second oldest city in South Carolina and the entire downtown is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Next, in Walterboro, we grab a Nquick lunch before heading west on Route 63. Once past I-95, we have the road to ourselves. Farm fields coated in spring’s light-green plantings dot the landscape not occupied by deep, dark swamps. Cypress and live oak provide shady respites from the toasty sun, and Kathy, looking around, wonders aloud if there are alligators in South Carolina. For the rest of the day, any size log that’s afloat mysteriously takes on a life of its own.

Intrigued by a sign reading Savan- Inah National Wildlife Refuge, I turn

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Even though a sign tells us “Every- Ething Is Better In Metter,” we opt to head north and begin our search for a hickory-smoked lunch in Millen. At the city limits my well-trained nose goes aloft to scan for the telltale signs of smoky, slow-cooked meat. Unfortunately, our quest de ‘que proves fruitless in the small downtown. But with experience dictating that proper cookin’ pits are often located off the beaten path, we defer to the experts and ride to the nearest gas station. Before I can even get my helmet off, a guy walking out of the store sees the map in my tankbag. “Y’all lookin’ fer any place in p’ticular,” he drawls. When I tell him our dilemma, he thinks for a few seconds and says,  Reminders of Georgia’s antebellum past appear almost everywhere. “There’s a l’il place outside town, but off the highway. Kathy is a little non- slower paced vibe we picked up yes- I’d be ‘fraid ya’ll uh get lost. Come on plussed by the prospect of taking a terday is truly pervasive in these parts. and follow me, I’ll take ya right there.” four-mile dirt road excursion so late in Even the gently arcing rivers flow as And like that, our impromptu guide the day, but my promise that we’ll slow and steady as the local accents. leads us straight to Brinson’s Barbecue. finally see a real alligator changes her Strangers wave, store clerks are friendly, I guess the notion of leaving a stranger tune. Lucky for me, we see five of them and everyone we encounter is genuinely lost and hungry just doesn’t cut it in this – and a small copperhead to boot. concerned that we may be lost. part of Georgia. Though unpaved, the road is very well maintained and meanders across the  Another batch of Vidalia’s sweet onions is almost ready for market. abandoned levees of a long-vanished rice plantation. What once supported a major cash crop is now home to countless migratory birds and crea- tures of every stripe and hue. This short side trip doesn’t cost a dime and is a real treat for any nature lover.

Fresh Pork Rinds We rise early, ready to ride after a Wquick bite at the Best Western’s com- plimentary continental breakfast. Likely to be caught up in the morning rush, we roll out anyway. Honestly, even on a weekday, the traffic isn’t that bad. Out of town via Route 17, we then turn west on 204. More swathes of wide, freshly planted fields blanket the land- scape. It’s obvious eastern Georgia’s agricultural roots still run deep, and along Route 46 we realize that the

16 RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel City Portrait relief beneath massive live oaks. Because The pirate theme runs strong here of the General’s respect for the land’s too,T particularly along River Street and natives and his friendship with local at the Pirate’s House Restaurant, an inn Savannah Yamacraw chief Tomochichi, the bur- that once served as a favored haven In February of 1733, General James geoning city never had to deal with for bloodthirsty buccaneers. It’s said IOglethorpe and 121 settlers climbed the problem of Indian conflicts. the tunnels running from this building a high bluff overlooking the Savannah were used to “shanghai” unsuspecting River. That day the city of Savannah and Following the Revolutionary War, men dimmed by a few grogs too many. the thirteenth and final American colony FSavannah continued to grow and pros- Local lore also posits that Robert Louis were founded. Meant to be not only a per. Cotton and rice became major Stevenson based much of Treasure buffer zone between the encroaching cash crops. The great profits from these Island on legendary occurrences that Spanish in Florida and British South commodities spurred the construction took place here. Numerous tour com- Carolina, the colony was also desig- of many opulent homes and buildings panies offer motorized and pedestrian nated as a place for those mired in throughout the city. This was especially excursions all over town, catering to England’s debtor’s prisons to get a true after the invention of Eli Whitney’s people whose interests range from his- fresh start. General Oglethorpe envi- Cotton Gin on nearby Mulberry Grove toric homes and ghosts to the creations sioned and established the city’s grid plantation. The gin transformed Savan- of local celebrity chef Paula Deen. There’s pattern of wide streets and 24 public nah, turning it into one of the busiest even an outfit offering hearse tours. squares. Twenty-two of them remain, seaports of the time. World-wide cotton offering residents and visitors shady prices were established on the steps of Speaking of spirits, those with the the Savannah Cotton Exchange build- Sparty bug will find Savannah to be a ing which still stands along Bay Street. home away from home. As long as imbib- ers stay within the Historic District, adult During the Civil War, the local econ- beverages can be bought “to go” in plastic Domy crumbled, but Savannah managed cups. This liberal policy on booze makes to retain her resplendence. It is said sense, because with the number of incred- that when Union General Tecumseh ible restaurants and pubs lining the streets, Sherman came through in December of it’s impossible to stay parked at one place 1864 during his infamous “March to for too long. On our strolls we discov- the Sea,” he was so enamored with the ered menus posted that included pizza, city’s beauty he couldn’t bring himself to seafood, Thai, sushi, comfort, tapas, destroy it. Today, visitors to this uniquely breakfast, subs, Mexican, gelato, and Southern enclave find it easy to under- some of the most sinful pralines known stand his sentiments. Roundly considered to man. And that’s just a sampling. In one of the most beautiful cities in the each place we happened to dine, the United States, and to many the world, food was either superb or sublime. Bottom Savannah is brimming with a charm and line: leave the diet regimen at home. hospitality found in few other places. Thanks to General Oglethorpe’s inspired Another great city asset is the vibe of planning, the 2.5-square mile historic theA eclectic downtown shopping district. district is quite compact, but has a very Stores, boutiques, and specialty mer- open and airy atmosphere. Broad cano- chandisers compete with the cuisines pies of live oaks dapple the squares in diversity. And due in large part to the and the streets in shade, making a influence of SCAD (Savannah College walking tour especially fine. Remark- of Art and Design), Savannah’s art gal- able buildings in many architectural leries feature many world-class exhibits. styles (Federal, Gothic Revival, Regency, And, as in any urban college setting, the and Romanesque Revival) appear active community of creative students around almost every corner. certainly enlivens the atmosphere.

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The restaurant’s interior is spartan, Sweet Onions toT put it kindly, but the meal is excellent. Next morning, departing downtown The chopped pork is tender with just NSavannah on the same roads, we again the right amount of smoke, and the shoot west on Route 204. But instead tangy sweet mustard-based sauce is of turning north, we continue west the perfect complement. The included toward a city with an all too familiar side of hash (their version of a savory name. Now, I’ve often been told I’m Brunswick stew) on rice was a very nice as nutty as a fruitcake, but I never surprise. On the way out, I take a second thought I’d find my long lost home in look at a bunch of zip-lock bags brim- eastern Georgia. Sure enough, the ming with pork rinds stacked at the words on the water tower sum it up: register. The girl there tells me “we fry Claxton is the fruitcake capital of the ‘em up right back there in the kitchen.” world. Every Christmas, Claxton Fruit- I can’t resist. They’re delicious. cake’s familiar red-and-white striped packages containing the Old Fash- Leaving Millen, we motor into the ioned World Famous treat begin to Lafternoon, heading southeast on Route appear on grocers’ shelves and kitchen 17. Despite the long straight roads, the counters. Few things in the world are lure of higher speeds never entices me. as roundly loved and derided as these The few cars and trucks encountered seasonal delicacies. I suggest we stop are moving at a relaxed pace that and get one, and Kathy threatens to hit matches the friendly nods and easy me with it if we do. Opposites attract, smiles we get from the drivers. So who and so goes the universal “appeal” of cares if this asphalt isn’t the best of this weapons-grade snack.  I thought ZZ Top hailed from Texas. proving grounds for the Kawasaki’s sporty demeanor? The laid-back atti- We continue westward across Route tudes of the locals traveling it suit these 292.W All along the way, lines of pecan  A good shade tree is a treasured riders just fine. trees that supply the crunch to both resource in the steamy South. Claxton’s cakes and the Savannah Candy Company’s scrumptious pralines are sprouting summer greenery. Few culinary delights match a Georgia pecan wrapped in some manner of sweet coating. Be it pies, candy, or even a sugary glaze, the harvests from these trees have helped pay some of my dentist’s boat payments.

Soon, a tasty bounty of another Svariety begins to appear. The large rolling fields are now sprouting onions. Not just any old bulb, these are the renowned sweet Vidalia onions, named for the nearby city of Vidalia. The harvest runs from late April through mid-June, and the picking season is just underway. From what we’ve seen, this part of the Peach State is a little less fruit and a lot more root.

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The 5,182-acre Georgia Air National Guard facility is used by all services to hone their bombing and air combat skills. I stopped at the gate and listened intently, hoping to hear some wicked explosions. But heard nothing more than the din that crickets and frogs make.

Arrival in Darien triggers our lunch- Aspot search. On our initial run through town, I catch a whiff of the surf when spying the B and J’s Steaks and Sea- food name. I’m cognizant of the fact that Kathy isn’t fond of seafood, but sometimes my olfactory sense asserts devious control. So, I go ahead and

 Smooth, quiet roads deliver easy, laid-back rides.

With our evening explorations of straight pines line both sides of the Lady and Sons WSavannah calling, we turn back east road and, for the most part, there are 102 W Congress St. on Route 178. The gently undulating no buildings. Small, sandy roads occa- Savannah, GA 31403 hills begin their slow descent back into sionally twist off into the forest, but www.ladyandsons.com the Low Country. As the road treks fur- even a motorcycling Magoo couldn’t ther east, the streams run slower and miss the liberal postings of bold “No From modest beginnings making lunch broaden, and their water darkens. Tresspassing” signs bearing warnings deliveries from her home as the proprietor Nature has reasserted dominion here, of live-ammunition use. And should of The Bag Lady in 1989, Paula Deen the old ways slipping to ruin: creeping any of this fail its purpose, Hummers has come a long, long way. Other loca- vines and overgrown plots, the leaning, slowly patrol these lanes, ensuring that tions and names came and went for the useless walls of abandoned farms. unwitting passersby stay on a very noted restaurateur until 2003, when she short leash. And that’s all well before opened Lady & Sons in its current location Beware of Tanks you reach the “Tank Crossing” sign… in downtown Savannah. Stopping there, Despite the nice continental spread we soon learned that the ballyhoo over Dat the hotel, I have no trouble talking We bid adieu to Fort Stewart at this Food Network chef is richly deserved. Kathy into breakfast at the Express FlemingtonW and head south on Route Amazing, fantastic food! Café and Bakery a few short blocks 57 before picking up an exceptionally from the hotel. We spotted it last night desolate stretch of Route 251. Both and I knew then that Kathy would be sides of the road display nothing more tickled pink to split a bacon, egg, spin- than deep, swampy tracts of scraggly ach, and cheese bagel. And the glori- trees and few signs of civilization. ously gooey pecan sticky bun added There’s one small general store where to the order may be the best pastry I’ve we stop for a drink. “What in the world ever tasted. do you do in this part of the country?” Kathy wonders aloud. “Hunt alligators, Southwest of Savannah, we nose maybe,” is my only guess. Then, just Sthe Kawasaki across Route 144 and a few miles down the road, we come into Fort Stewart. This 279,270-acre across the gates of the Townsend Bomb- military reservation is the largest Army ing Range. Apparently, looking for base east of the Mississippi River and gators is the second or third most excit- home to the 3rd Infantry Division. Tall, ing thing that happens around here.

www.roadrunner.travel July/August '09 19 of live oaks meeting and mingling ful hospitality of Savannah and the across the road and the breath-like Low Country will beckon again and sound of breezes in Spanish moss. The again. And you can bet a pound of briny fragrance of morning tide in the pralines that our days of seeing this marshes will be a part of someone area as just another exit on a busy else’s waking. Though we have yet to freeway are officially over. RR depart, plans are already in the works to return. Now that we’ve finally expe- To view more photos and post your rienced it, the natural beauty and ease- comments, visit www.roadrunner.travel

 The highways in Eastern Georgia are models of efficiency.

 Well, so much for the “fill ‘er up” option. make like I’m searching for a more suitable dining option; then while stopped down by the waterfront park along the northern bank of the Darien River, with two shrimp boats in sight, I press home the rationale that because the word ‘steak’ appears foremost in the name of B and J’s fine establishment, Best Western Promenade One of the best parts about a Road- and since their parking lot is full, that 412 W Bay St, Savannah, GA 31401 RUNNER Shamrock Tour is having a com- we probably couldn’t go too far wrong (912) 233-1011 fortable place to unpack the bags and call dining there. She enjoys her Philly www.bestwestern.com home for a few days. The Best Western cheese steak and I’m in heaven with a Promenade on Bay Street fills that order half pound of fried Wild Georgia Shrimp perfectly. Our room was clean and the the boats brought in this morning. king bed exceptionally comfortable. Once the bike was parked for the evening, we After lunch, it’s back north on Route could walk to all of the numerous restau- 99.A We pay a quick visit to Fort King rants, bars, and attractions in the Historic George, a reconstruction of the 1721- District. The staff was always friendly 1736 garrison that marked the south- and very accommodating. For those who ernmost point of the British Empire in can’t break the tech-tether, in-room, high- North America. Closing in on Savannah speed Internet access is available and on our last leg of this trip, we savor the free of charge. Parking is outdoors, but tranquility of these Deep South roads we had no security worries all week. We one more time. When we head home plan to visit Savannah many more times, tomorrow, we’ll leave behind the shaded and the Promenade will remain high on caverns created by the crooked arms our short list of lodgings.

20 RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Tours Savannah, GA Shamrock® FACTS AND INFORMATION

Total Mileage and featureless topography, the roads Addresses & Phone Numbers Approximately 709 miles. are built efficiently. In a word, they’re o Savannah Area CVB, straight. But what they lack in excite- (877) SAVANNAH In General ment, they make up for in Southern www.savannahvisit.com The names “Old South” and Savan- serenity. West of Interstate 95, traffic o Old Savannah Tours, (800) 517- 9007, nah fit hand in glove. The beautiful dribbles away to nothing. Due in www.oldsavannahtours.com antebellum mansions that line the large part to mild winters, most of the o Beaufort, SC, (843) 525-8531, downtown streets and the quiet lanes, pavement encountered is in excellent www.beaufortsc.org shaded by huge live oaks bearded condition. o Savannah National Wildlife Refuge with moss, elegantly conjure that once (912) 652-4415, decorous, genteel past. The city and Books & Maps www.fws.gov/savannah/ the colony of Georgia were founded o Charleston and Savannah, o Fort King George Historic Site in 1733, and its agricultural and sea- by Jim Morekis, Moon Handbooks, www.gastateparks.org faring heritage is still very much a part ISBN 1598801651, $17.95 of the region today. o Georgia Off the Beaten Path, Motorcycle & Gear by William Schemmel, GPP Travel, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 14 How to Get There ISBN 0762741996, $13.95 Helmets: Nolan N103 with N-COM Any expeditious approach from the o Midnight in the Garden Of Good communication systems north or south will involve Interstate 95, and Evil, by John Berendt, Vintage, Jackets: Rev’It Sirocco, Rev’It Siren which passes 10 miles from the historic ISBN 0679751521, $14.95 Pants: Draggin’ Jeans city center. If approaching from the west, o AAA Maps of Georgia and South Gloves: Sidi Coibuss, Cortech GX Air 2 Interstate 16, connecting Savannah to Carolina Boots: Sidi Doha, Rev’It Jade Macon, and Interstate 75 are the quickest Always consult more 63 and easiest. detailed maps for 321 Varnville Walterboro touring purposes. Millen G E O R G AI 21 21 Food & Lodging 68 15 303 95 For gastronomic delight, few cities 278 17 21 ® 121 Ogeechee can top Savannah as a Shamrock Tour 17 Oliver S O U T H hub. No matter what we ate or where

24 Ridgeland C A R O L I N A  336 we chose to dine, the food was incred- Metter Statesboro Stilson Purrysburg Rd Leefield Rd 462 21 ible. Even outside the city, we had great 16 Stilson 21 St. Helena Sound luck with our on-the-road choices. 278 46 Blitchton 170 Motels, hotels, and inns of every Vidalia 292 17 80 Hilton Head Island Claxton 280 Pooler price range abound in Savannah. For Reidsville 21 204 121 17 the most enjoyable time, do stay in the 178 119 Savannah 144 Richmond historic district. Be aware that there are Trinity 144 Hill

121 Glenville  17 Fort 196 often special events going on in town, 196 Stewart Rd Fleming so it would be advisable to make res- 95 Allenhurst Midway 119 ervations. 84 AT L A N T I C 57 OCEAN 17 Roads & Biking 57 Townsend 99 Crescent When riding the roads surrounding 251 99 Savannah, it’s best to adopt the cruiser GPS files are available at Darien www.RoadRUNNER.travel state of mind. Due to the relatively flat

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