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Vol. XXII No. 19 MUSINGS January 16-31, 2013 More money for tourism But who will maintain the infrastructure to international standards?

arly this month, the Government announced a Rs 27.6 crore package for providing infrastructural Efacilities at various tourist spots across the State. The money, it has been specified, will be spent on basic amenities in all these areas. The basic premise is good. Given that all the identified tourist spots are almost completely unknown to the world at large, it will bring them some much-needed development. But what of those that are popular destinations at present? They too lack the same infrastructural facilities and G whatever there is, it is shabby favoured status, it is so poorly on a tender, they take ages. So George Town beyond description thanks to equipped with conveniences to what end these improvement lack of maintenance. So what and other facilities. What there schemes? does the Government propose are, were inaugurated with There is talk that the pow- much fanfare and then left to ers-that-be are working on a A tinder box to do? The basic amenities that the elements. What is main- Tourism Policy for the State. have been defined in the revival tained well is kept locked, only This may, therefore, be the cor- package include toilets, lodging to be used by VIPs who, in any rect time to assess what needs waiting facilities, drinking water, dining case, prefer the private resorts. to be done. And here are a few hall, cloak rooms and approach points to ponder: roads, the last named taking up 1. Evolve a public conve- almost 50% of the overall out- G by A Special nience/infrastructure policy to explode lay. Going by the same yard- Correspondent for all tourist locations and stick, can we say that these fa- highway halts (every 100 (By A Special Correspondent) cilities exist in the currently km) in the State and not popular tourist spots? Are any just a few. This way, every he New Year began with a fire breaking out on the second of the toilets in public places, The problem with such Gov- destination, be it major or Tfloor of a modern commercial complex in the George Town such as parks, temples and mu- ernment initiated ‘improve- minor, will benefit and have area. Happily, no lives were lost, which was to the good. But the seums, even remotely usable? ment schemes’ is that they do the same minimum stan- fire could be put out only after a struggle. What, however, emerged And would anyone who can af- not benchmark themselves dards. once again was the fact that new buildings in the oldest part of the ford to stay elsewhere wish to against world standards in plan, 2. Create a standard design for city, as in several other places too, are coming up without any ad- stay in Government con- execution and, above all, main- each amenity that is world- herence to fire safety norms and regulations. Even if the original structed ‘lodging facilities?’ tenance. They are all put up on class and ensure that this is construction conformed, later additions put paid to such precau- Take, for instance, the best the basis of PWD standards implemented across all the tions. The question is, what are our regulatory authorities and known tourist attraction which, we all know, amount to locations. This is not the planning agencies doing when these buildings are constructed and, around Chennai-Mamalla- little. And all this is done at a present practice which is later, modified? puram. Despite its UNESCO- tardy pace that would make the The fire in the building under question broke out at 8 a.m. in a ancients who constructed our (Continued on page 7) completely enclosed room with no windows. It was a good 45 min- temples wonder if we have pro- utes before the fire was detected and fire-safety personnel informed. gressed or regressed with time. When they arrived, they found the going tough. The windows to Finally, there is never any main- the office were barred with grilles and even the use of the sky-lift tenance. Given that even bro- proved useless. Access was gained only by breaking open the front ken fittings are replaced based door and, by the time all this was done, the fire had spread. Fire tenders from various parts of the city had to be pressed into service to contain the conflagration. It also transpired that there was no fire-fighting equipment on the premises. Considering that every building in the city is to be built/modi- fied only after the CMDA/Corporation approves the plan, how are such fire accidents repeatedly taking place? Adherence to fire- safety norms is one of the criteria on the basis of which approval is given. If so, how is it that such buildings are allowed? It is well known that, in our city, the plan submitted for approval is often entirely different from what is finally constructed. This is why our civic authorities are supposed to visit building sites while work is in Two locked public toilets at progress and ascertain compliance with what has been approved. Mamallapuram and a sink with no taps. (Continued on page 7) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2013 Senior citizens develop New Year resolutions ow that the 1st of Janu- and also has darkened windows where power is turned off at Nary has gone by and the and sports a pennant/political the main for a full day on ac- next one is a long way off, The flag: This is a vital necessity. count of maintenance. an arboretum Man from Madras Musings has When these vehicles speed However, the general view begun charting out a wish list/ along, policemen do a double in the mofussil is that MMM ntil two years ago Yerrangadu, 100 km south of Chennai, near resolution list for this year. act. They salute and, at the belongs to a privileged order for he has outages only for two the east coast, was a little-known village. This stretch of bar- This is not to be confused with same time, abuse all other law- U the idealistic list made the 1st abiding users of the road for hours in a day and, then, for a ren land with little vegetation is now the home of an arboretum. of January which had such being in the way. It is a tough full day just once in a month. It is a good example of conservation of biodiversity and of rear- quixotic resolutions as at- act. Apparently, out there in the ing hundreds of species of plants and trees little known in the area. tempting to defy MMM’s good A convoy to accompany an outback, power is hardly ever lady also known as She Who SUV that has a swirling red there. Let them use candles, In the US, an arboretum housing hundreds of trees and plants is Must Be Obeyed. By the 15th light, the letter G inscribed on appears to be the prevalent at- a familiar picnic spot in many cities and many have evolved as of January reality sinks in and its number plate, has darkened titude of the TNEB, now focal areas for nature education and research. MMM sets out to plan things windows and a pennant/politi- TANGEDCO. that are more achievable. cal flag: The number of ve- I had the privilege of watching the evolution of this arboretum And this year MMM has hicles in the convoy should be Memorials @ Mahabs over the last three years. The Cambridge-educated senior advo- put together a survivor’s list. such that they can cause traffic cate C. Ramakrishna, who has been transforming the villages By this he means a list that jams by themselves. The con- he Man from Madras around Illeedu and Vennangupet into lush orchards, had a small spells out all that MMM hopes voy will usually comprise ve- T Musings was recently the to have in order to be able to Man at Mamallapuram. And arboretum of a few dozen exotic trees in Illeedu. He was deeply as he drove along he was quite impressed by the much larger number of such exotic trees grown by move around in peace on Chennai’s roads. MMM has intrigued to see these objects another illustrious son of that area, the centenarian Muthumalla made attempts to navigate SHORT ’N’ by the roadside. You could al- Reddy. The exotic trees included decades-old mahogany, redwood, these as a pedestrian, as a pub- SNAPPY most pass them off as historic etc. lic transport user and in small- memorial stones. They had all and, later, medium-sized cars. the prerequisites – lying un- Ramakrishna, deeply involved in the social amelioration of the Having achieved only partial kempt by the roadside, cov- area, was keen to develop a unique farm with exotic trees and to success and a vast number of hicles of a brand that means ered with political posters etc. leave this for posterity. He had earlier donated land for the Na- scratches and bruises (both on emissary at court and will be MMM took a photo (below) tional Agro Foundation’s training centre. himself and the vehicles), bristling with gun-toting for your benefit. MMM now sets out what is guards and antennae of various These were part of a series needed to emerge unscathed. lengths, thickness and shapes. of stands that were once put AN SUV: MMM had often This usually is associated with up by (who else?) our Tourism G by S. Viswanathan wondered as to why these the last word in security and, Department. On each was a SPORTS Utility Vehicles keep so, is generally denoted by the terra cotta figurine, said to rep- careening about on the city’s last letter. By now streets will resent our artistic capabilities. roads. But then our city’s thor- be cleared for MMM to pass. All feminine, they were each K.P. Geethakrishnan, former Finance Secretary and former Ex- oughfares are arenas for the What more could MMM ask on the lines of the solidly built ecutive Director, IMF, who has been closely associated with the adventurous only and what for? dancers we saw on screen in Salim Ali Foundation, joined hands with CR to work on this dream better vehicle for them than the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s (and project. He involved Dr. V.S. Vijayan of the Foundation and his the SUV. These are so large perhaps even now). Actually, A powerless life they were not all that bad and wife Lalitha in planning the arboretum. His four-decade-old ser- and go around at such great he Chief is breathing ... they did form an aesthetic line- vice as a civil servant was a big help in involving senior officials of speeds that it is safest to be in- side these vehicles. TMMM’s neck that for this up except for the impossible the Tamil Nadu Government, including C.K. Sridharan, then A pennant/political flag on is long overdue. And even as vital statistics. Then they all Chief Conservator of Forests. an SUV: Having an SUV alone MMM bends ... his PC trying went to seed, rather like the dancers of the 1970s, ’80s and CR set apart 14 acres of land in Yerrangadu for the arboretum is not enough. Without the to ... it out. The TNEB has de- cided to lend a helping in the ’90s. Their paint peeled off, and also committed the required resources for developing it. pennant or flag, it is relatively infra-dig. Courageous and meanwhile, by causing a fluc- they lost an arm or a leg (per- Vijayan and his team, assisted by experts from the Forest Depart- physically agile policemen are tuation ... 5th minute thereby haps they cost an arm and a ment led by Jain Allauddin, and K.S. Devadoss and KPG, worked likely to stop traffic-violating causing MMM’s computer to leg?) and then they disap- to a detailed plan, beginning with mapping the region and select- SUVs that are sans this appur- shut down each ... as it is low peared altogether, rather like ing the species, planting and watering. CR spent liberally on tenance. But once you have on.... This obviously means the dancers of the 1970s, ’80s constructing three large wells to ensure a copious supply of water. the pointed thingummy up- that you, dear...have to fill in and ’90s. What we have are The soil was analysed, corrected for deficiencies, enriched with front, with a party flag flying, the blanks as...and imagine these stands. Perhaps they are needed nutrients and linked by a network of drip irrigation pipes. all is well. what it is that MMM is trying- memorials in a way! --say. When a complaint was Dark windows on an SUV – MMM Tree saplings were identified and collected from nurseries in that is embellished with a pen- lodged, MMM... as- Sikkim, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Coimbatore, Pondicherry, Thrissur, nant/political flag: This is sured that he was not Tiruvananthapuram, and other places. The trees were planted in strictly against the law, but alone and that this rows to plans made by KPG. Smaller trees were planted in the front, then if MMM does not cock-a- problem was com- medium-size trees behind them and the largest trees at the extreme snook at the law, how can he mon across the.... Which brings back, to ensure visibility. display his clout? And how else can he get the policemen on MMM to the main I remember the trials and tribulations all of them went through. the road to salute? MMM point. Considering Saplings transported over long distances suffered damage. A few notices that the law-enforcers that they religiously also died, unable to cope with the pit conditions. These were re- salute these vehicles even if shut down power each month for a full placed in quick time. Today, the arboretum has 320 species. KPG the all important personality is not inside. And the faster these day in all our areas by also looked out for star trees, i.e. trees for each one of the 29 birth SUVs jump the signals, the strict rotation, osten- stars (e.g. Ashwini, Bharani, and so on). Today, the arboretum has more the salutes. sibly for mainte- 854 plants. The letter G inscribed on nance, how is it that the power supply is CR has also planted in adjoining plots hundreds of fruit trees. the number plate of an SUV with a pennant/political flag so bad when there is V.S. Vijayan describes Yerrangadu as the first private arbore- and darkened windows: This is power supply? Are tum. Senior civil servant B. Vijayaraghavan expresses the hope that to ensure that apart from they maintaining this will mark the beginning of public-private participation in more jumping signals, MMM can go themselves or their equipment when such arboretums. anywhere without worrying about speed limits. By now, they have these CR mentions creation of a separate trust for managing the ar- MMM also ought to have ac- maintenance shut- boretum under the chairmanship of Vanita Ramani and setting quired a fierce-looking chauf- downs? MMM sin- cerely hopes it is the apart around Rs.12 lakh annually for the maintenance. feur who recognises only two components in the vehicle – latter, but somehow To think that septuagenarians and octogenarians could spend the accelerator and the horn. thinks it is the so much effort, resources and energy on creating a project for the A swirling red-light on an former. After all, education and enjoyment of posterity! – (Courtesy: Industrial SUV that has the letter G in- there is no other State in the country Economist). scribed on its number plate January 16-31, 2013 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Obstacle course he short stretch of T Westcott Road, Royapet- tah, from the gate of our apart- ment complex, north towards the Meston Collge/Wesley High School compound, though barely 100 metres long, has all the ingredients that make walking on Chennai’s roads such a great adventure. Uneven pedestrian walks (if they can be called that), broken paving stones, half open man- holes, unauthorised parking of vehicles, two-wheelers whizzing past in the wrong direction, strewn garbage and the ever present stench of urine are com- monplace. Lately, one more item has been added to this list – dan- gling wires of cable TV net- works, telephones and possibly even TANGEDCO. They were always there but at a safe height, strung along the street lamp posts. Of late they all seem to have descended towards the ground adding to the variety of obstacles that a pedestrian has to negotiate. The photographs alongside speak for themselves. Two sights are note- worthy:(i) the coiled loop of cable TV wires resembling the ‘ring of fire’ which animals are expected to jump through in a circus , offering new ideas to the more acrobatic and adventur- ous amongst pedestrians and (ii) the majestic sprawl of a length of cable on the ground at the entrance to a petrol pump (lying undisturbed in that state for several days) emblematic of an apathetic citizenry that has given up on a clueless and ineffective civic administration and the utter brazenness of a “cable mafia” whose lawless- ness has reached the latest new low. close associate of veteran leader the first General Election. As an Is any one in charge? Does K. Kamaraj and a dear friend of 11-year old, I used to accom- any one care a damn? M.C. Mama (they used to visit pany them from door to door, OUR ADDRESSES each other almost every day) requesting women to go and K. Balakesari and devoted to the common vote. We were all guided by For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, 3/1, Kesari Kuteeram cause – providing affordable M.C. Mama. non-receipt of receipts etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, 27, Westcott Road quality health care for the His pleasant countenance, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Royapettah people of West Mambalam. In ever-smiling face, dignified and Chennai 14. Chennai 600014 all fairness, I think C. Rajam calm disposition, soft and low Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters Another contributor Ramaswamy’s contribution to voice, all these were those of a to the editor can be sent via email to this hoary institution should dhoti-clad Gandhian and are he Public Health Centre [email protected]. Those who wish to intimate not be forgotten. In fact MC still fresh in my memory. I recall (MM, January 1st) has T Mama would be the first person the ‘Bhoomi Pooja’ for the Pub- change of address can also do so provided the done remarkable service for the to agree with my statement, if lic Health Centre being per- subscription number is quoted. For non-receipt of copies, disadvantaged section of our he had read this article. formed on a ground in Lake change of address, and all other circulation matters: community in the post-inde- View Road, and, if my memory Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. pendent years. MC Mama Prema Srinivasan hasn’t failed me, the ‘Kuthu Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. richly deserves to be remem- [email protected] Vilakku’ for the pooja being lit bered for his selfless service and On editorial matters: The Editor, Madras Musings, No. Walking with MC by Sivasankari, today a noted devotion to the Centre. It was 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, writer and novelist. largely due to his efforts that the well remember M.C. Mama Chennai 600 014. I can still visualise the scene Centre continues as an impor- (MM, January 1st). I of M.C. Mama walking in the No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters tant landmark health care insti- In 1952, when T.T.K. con- area with his volunteers who received will be sent from these addresses every couple of tution for those in need. tested the Parliament seat and adored him. days to the persons concerned and you will get an answer I would also like to recall the C.R. Ramaswami the Assembly from them to your queries reasonably quickly. Strange as it services of C. Rajam Rama- seat, my elder sister and her Mrs. Balasaraswathi sawamy (MLA, Mylapore, from friends were all engaged in ca- Krishnaswami may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be 1952 to 62) who served as the joling the womenfolk of West 121, ( New No.3), 6th Street able to help you faster and disappoint you less. President of the Centre from its Mambalam area to go and ex- A.V.M. Avenue, Virugambakkam inception to 1986. He was a ercise their franchise as it was Chennai 600 092 – THE EDITOR 4 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2013 January 16-31, 2013 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

pointment as high walls at the rear hid the Hall from view. A Discovering Trichy’s plaque, put up during the Raj and akin to what we see on Chepauk Palace and Clive House (in Fort St George), stated that Madras connections this had been the Durbar Hall of Mangammal of the Naik Dy- nasty, circa 1700. According to local tradition, – with Sriram V. the Durbar Hall is but a small remnant of what was a much ome, O ladies, let us go At 6.30 am we were at the Trichy, were one of the oldest larger palace built by “C see the Lord of Sriran- Natharvali Dargah. This historic Gujarati families to come South. Mangammal’s husband Chokka- gam,” sang Tyagaraja when he shrine, said to be 1100 years old, They were known for their suc- natha Nayak. The construction visited Trichy in 1836. I should is just outside the Rock Fort area. cess in the trade and their acts of was made possible by canni- have known that he was predict- It is the burial spot of Hazrat philanthropy. One of the latter balising the Tirumalai Nayak ing a heritage tour of the area Dada Nathar Auliya, one of the was the Tawker Chattram which Mahal in Madurai when and, sure enough, did one re- great Sufi saints. He came from stood till recently by this lane. Chokkanatha shifted his capital cently with an all-woman audi- Istanbul and settled in South In- The Tawkers were to establish a to Trichy in 1665. When ence. dia, dying in Trichy in 1069 CE. powerful presence in Madras by Chokkanatha and his son the close of the 19th Century. Rangakrishna Muthu Virappa Their showroom on Mount died in quick succession, it was Road, their residence on Peter’s left to the former’s wife, Road (now New College) and Mangammal, to steer the king- their sensational collapse follow- dom through a tough period of ing a sale on credit to the Nizam 12 years when her grandson of Hyderabad in the early years Vijayaranga Chokkanatha was a of the 20th Century are all the minor. Her diplomacy and deter- stuff of legend. Interestingly, a mination saw her through several Tawker Chattram still survives attempted invasions. Sadly, her grandson did not have her vision. in Ayanavaram, close to the Kasi Rock Fort from Theradi Bazaar Viswanatha Swami Temple, also His coming of age in 1704 saw built by the Tawkers. As I was re- The Rock Fort loomed large at to be heard to be believed. Mangammal vanish and it is lating the story, a middle-aged one end of it. Here, completely Strewn about in the park are ves- rumoured that she was starved to death. The grandson did not do man joined in to listen keenly. At lost among a warren of shops tiges of past grandeur – derelict The desecrated Schmidt memorial with the crack in the arch highlighted in the inset. Below, the old (left) and a newer plaque completely defaced. the end of it he shyly introduced stands Coronation Park, an un- fountains, broken ornamental much beyond composing songs himself. He was Shankar believably sylvan oasis. Spon- lights and dried up tanks. In the on Ranganatha in a long reign till middle, standing beneath a 1731. His death saw his wife Nathavali Dargah bower, is a statue of Queen Meenakshi attempt a Man- Desecrating a memorial to courage AURA is a women’s associa- The Nawabs of Arcot particu- Victoria, which from its floral gammal-like act but that was not tion in Trichy which does much larly venerated Nathavali and garlands of recent vintage ap- to be. Chanda Sahib took over in .R.A. Narasiah, who sent by way of social causes. It also there was even a move in their pears to be in worship! Below the 1736 and Meenakshi’s suicide KMadras Musings photo- invites speakers to address its time to rename Trichy as Nathar statue is a plaque that states that saw the end of the Nayaks. From graphs, writes that they were taken, members. I had done so in 2009. Nagar. It is significant that three the park was inaugurated in 1901 then on what happened and how when a group of citizens led by so- That year they decided that I personages from the family – by R.H. Shipley, the Collector of Trichy, along with the rest of the cial activists Kamakshi Subrama- must lead them on a heritage Chanda Sahib, Mohammad Ali Trichy. The park commemorates Carnatic, became a part of the niam and a Dr. Babu took it upon tour of Trichy. I was most reluc- Wallajah and Umdat-ul-Umrah the coronation of King Edward British empire is well known. themselves to remember the drown- tant. My knowledge of the town – the latter had spent much time VII which took place that year. The town was to, however, ing on December 30th, 82 years was limited to my going there on in Madras – are buried here. Just behind the park stands play a key role in this takeover, ago, of Kaj Schmidt, a Danish holidays. But it had a history that The next stop was in the Mangammal’s Durbar Hall. An for the siege of Trichy in the sailor who lost his life trying to res- would make any enthusiast’s shadow of the Rock Fort, this ornate octagonal Indo-Saracenic Carnatic wars was when Robert cue a young woman from Britain mouth water. And so, as it always being Nadu Guzili Street. This marvel inside, it is completely Clive displayed his mettle. Clive who was holidaying in Madras. happens when I try to get women was the old Gujarati quarter and hidden by later British additions. Hostel, nestling at the foot of the Then, as now, the waters off Ma- to see my point of view, I ended their connections with the town This is the Government Museum Rock Fort and facing the Nayak- rina Beach and Elliott’s Beach were up being convinced instead and go back almost 600 years. Close now. It was yet to be opened for built temple tank, is today syn- not the safest for swimming, par- the day when we got there, but a onymous with a warren of shops ticularly during the latter part of the committed to the tour. by is Diamond Bazaar, where Schwartz’s Christ Church As Trichy has a story to tell at most of the Gujaratis made their look at the environs gave a hint long straggling neo-Gothic fa- year when, with the monsoons, the was it on New Year’s Eve? – the in Madras of Kaj Schmidt’s act One of Narasiah’ s pictures virtually every corner, keeping fortune. A lane off Nadu Guzili Tawker. That was too good a sored by the plantain brokers of as to the level of upkeep inside. cade fronted by it. A marble currents can become particularly young women arrived dressed in all raised money for a huge memorial shows a seriously threatening crack time, traffic and temperature in is Tawker Chattram Lane. This photo-op to miss and we all the Teppakulam area, it is a tree A long lane separated the Hall plaque, similar to the one at treacherous. This young woman their finery only to have that was raised on Elliott’s Beach – in the arch. mind, we decided to restrict the commemorates one of the best- posed with him. filled park whose foliage is so from its more modern neighbour Mangammal’s palace, says that and a friend of hers, another young Governor Sir George Stanley which serves both as a remem- Other pictures show the me- tour to the Rock Fort and its envi- known Gujarati families of From here we walked through dense that it remains dark for and this passage doubles up as a Clive lived here in 1752. What is woman, found this out too late. frostily tell them when they brance for courage as well as a morial scrawled all over with rons and within that space to a Trichy. The Tawkers, almost all streets with names such as Periya most of the day. In the evening, local latrine. We braved it in the clear, however, is that Clive Schmidt, who was also testing the reached him in the receiving line warning to swimmers here. It was graffiti, while other plictures show select dozen locations that would of whom had the initial T to in- Chetty, Sourashtra, etc., and birds in their thousands come to hope of seeing the Hall from the must have taken over a Muslim waters, succeeded in rescuing them that it was hardly the done thing to here that the group of social activ- the original plaque that the give an idea of what Trichy’s heri- dicate that they came from came to Theradi Bazaar Road. roost and the music they make is rear. But we were in for a disap- nobleman’s residence when he but the effort proved too much for come to a Ball after a life had been ists lit candles in Schmidt’s memory Corporation of Madras ‘implanted’ tage was. As I set about research- came to Trichy. him. lost on account of them. The two, the other day and spoke of how after carrying out some renovation ing the locations to visit, I was The shopping arcade can be Legend has it that at the it is said, fled in tears. badly we keep such markers of the work on the memorial badly de- helped by numerous people, in- architecturally divided into two Governor’s Ball that evening – or Be that story as it may, admirers city’s heritage. faced. cluding my parents (“How can parts. The lower level is a series line on the other side of the tank. 1913. There must have been an the tank, you reach Nandi Koil you not visit Coronation Park?”), of arches in Islamic style, with a When the college moved to older structure here that had Street. Here, exactly opposite Karthik Bhatt (“What? A tour of central passageway that leads to Trichy from Nagapattinam in served as Clive’s residence and, the Naganatha Swami Temple, Rock Fort without Tawker a vast open courtyard. A Naubat the 1880s, Clive House became no doubt, it was demolished to is Christ Church, built by the Lane?”) and Dr. Chithra Khana as in Amir Mahal would the hostel for its students. make way for the hostel a cen- Rev Christian Frederick Schwar- Madhavan (“There are two caves have probably topped this struc- It still remains one. Inside, on tury ago. Whatever be the case, tz in 1766. It lays claim to being and not one. Try and see the ture, and drums would have three sides of open courtyard are the upkeep of the premises is the second oldest Anglican Pandyan cave temple also”). been beaten there on ceremoni- the hostel buildings. The ones on shocking and even the sole church, built east of the Suez, af- I sent the list of places in ad- ous occasions. This upper storey the left and right are new addi- plaque commemorating Clive is ter St Mary’s in Fort St George. vance to the club and the mem- must have later made way for the tions. The building at the far end ready to fall off, being kept in The Rev Schwartz is a legend in bers, together with local enthusi- Gothic structure that was later is of earlier vintage. We were as- place by an air-conditioner that South Indian history. Known as ast and trekker Sridhar Bharati, commercialised. All this is the sured that this was where Clive hides it from view. Schwartz Iyer owing to his piety set about identifying them so property of St Joseph’s College, lived. But alas, a plaque there On coming out of Clive Hos- that we did not have to search whose church dominates the sky- gives the date of construction as tel, if you walk to your right along (Continued on page 6) for them during the three-hours' The plaque marking where Robert morning tour by van and foot. Clive Hostel facade. Clive Hostel passage. Clive stayed. 6 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2013

Guide Book on Ellora (World Heritage Series). Some of the The man behind City’s volumes in the famous series on inscriptions, Epigraphia Indica and South Indian Inscriptions, were edited by him. The Story of National Art Gallery Buddhism with Special Reference to South India was co-authored with Dr.A.Ayyappan, Superin- e was primarily responsible were the achievements of art- the French Institute of Indology tendent, Madras Museum, Hfor the establishment of historian and epigraphist P.R. in Pondicherry till 1986. when P.R. Srinivasan was the the National Art Gallery in the Srinivasan, who was also very PRS had the opportunity to Curator for Art and Archaeol- Madras Government Museum well-versed in temple architec- assist the world-renowned art- ogy. This book was released at in 1951 which was inaugurated ture. Born on June 27, 1920, he historian C. Sivaramamurti, the 2500th Buddha Jayanthi cel- completed his M.A. in Sanskrit, who was his predecessor in the by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. He P.R. Srinivasan. ebrations in 1956. In addition, was in charge of organising the Indian Culture and Philology Madras Museum as Curator for numerous articles of his were Archaeology and Art exhibi- from Annamalai University. He Art and Archaeology, in estab- ology 1967-68. He also deliv- published in several interna- tion in 1951 during the Cente- later served as the Curator for lishing the National Museum in ered lectures on Indian Archae- tional and Indian journals of re- nary Celebrations of the Madras Archaeology and Art at the New Delhi which was formed ology and Art in several institu- pute. Government Museum which Government Museum, Madras, with exhibits from many muse- tions in the U.S.A. such as Yale His magnum opus, Bronzes of was also inaugurated by Pandit from 1946 to 1959 and was pro- ums in India. He also assisted University and Texas Univer- South India, was published in Nehru. The credit for organi- moted to the position of the As- the eminent historian Professor sity. The Art Purchase Com- 1963 as a Bulletin of the Madras sing the 2500th Buddha Jayanthi mittee of the Government of Museum. Profusely illustrated celebration exhibition in the Madras, which included emi- with photographs, it is a very same museum in 1956, inaugu- nent art critics like J.H. Cous- detailed study of the metal im- G rated by the first President of by Dr. Chithra Madhavan ins and G. Venkatachalam and ages of the Pallava, Chola, India, Dr. Rajendra Prasad, goes the renowned sculptor Devi Pandya, Vijayanagara, Kerala mainly to him. He was the Prasad Roy Chowdhury, sought and folk styles, many of which Founder of the prestigious jour- sistant Director. He worked as K.A. Nilakanta Sastri with his his help in purchasing works of are in the Egmore Museum. nal Transactions of the Archae- Special Officer of the ASI dur- magnum opus The Colas, with art for the National Art Gallery Dedicated to Dr. Sarvepalli logical Society of South India, first ing 1959-1960 and, subse- due acknowledgement by the of Madras. Radhakrishnan, the author published in 1954, and was its quently, served as Lecturer in latter in his preface to the sec- The list of this art-historian’s states in his Preface that he un- editor for a number of years. Historical Archaeology, Indian ond edition dated 1955 thank- publications is long. Some of dertook “a systematic study of The Archaeological Survey of Art and Architecture at Luck- ing him for “undertaking the them are Guide to the Organi- this subject in order to remove India (ASI) appointed him as now University. PRS, as he was detailed description of the illus- sation of Exhibits in a Museum, some of the difficulties that ex- the Special Expert to advise the affectionately called, later be- trations” in the book. Buddhist Antiquities in the Ma- ist for a proper appreciation of Committee of the ASI in decid- came the Director of the Epig- Iowa State University, dras Museum, Beginnings of the art and for a just evaluation ing the antiquity of ancient raphy Department of the ASI in U.S.A., invited this distin- South Indian Temple Architec- of individual specimens.” coins, sculptures, paintings and 1976 and retired in 1978. Post guished scholar to serve as Vis- ture, Bronzes of South India, Remarkable was his service artifacts. retirement, he was appointed iting Professor in History of In- Tiruvannamalai – A Saiva Sacred indeed to the fields of art-his- These and many, many more Special Senior Epigraphist of dian Art and Historical Archae- Complex of South India and A tory and epigraphy. Discovering Trichy’s Madras connection

(Continued from page 5) states that the land for the Looking down on all this re- Varman and were later con- at all costs. A huge enclosure at and learning, he is best remem- church was donated by the cent history is the immense bulk verted into Hindu shrines. This the foot of the rock is said to be bered as the guardian of the Nawabs of the Carnatic (rather of the Rock on which a Fort was also gives credence to the the future home of a retail giant young Serfoji and for waging a like the way they donated the built. 83 metres in height and theory that Tirucchirappalli in the region, an equivalent to ceaseless and ultimately suc- land for the Kapaleeswarar said to be over 3.8 billion years gets its name from Tiru Jina the kind that dominates our cessful battle to get the latter Temple). It is, however, in in age, it is older than the Palli. T Nagar. There is no list of recognised as the rightful Raja St.Mary’s in Madras that Himalaya, The Fort is home to The Rock Fort area is in heritage structures and no pro- of Tanjore. Schwartz is remembered in a a small settlement and the his- many ways like our George tection is afforded to any, bar Schwartz came to India in huge bas-relief. toric temple to Tayumana- Town. Though a lot cleaner, it those that are under the ASI. 1750 as part of the Danish The church, though kept swami – Shiva – who took the faces the same problems of Nobody has any information on Mission and then moved to well, has seen renovation that guise of a mother to help a preg- overcrowding, unregulated traf- the historic buildings that still Trichy where he set up home in can only be termed as ill-ad- nant devotee through her fic (though a system of one- survive. the same premises where Christ vised. Polished granite has re- labour. The 100 pillared hall ways is in place) and rampant The area has immense po- Church stands. His home, a placed the old flooring. The which is half way up has seen demolition of old structures to tential for tourism and it will be single storied building mounted memorial stones that lined the umpteen music concerts right make way for crass modern a pity if it all goes away. Hope- floor are now permanently bur- through the 19th Century and showrooms. This ‘retail-isation’ fully the women who came on on a high plinth which accom- th modates subterranean cham- ied underneath. The new gran- most of the 20 Century. of the area needs to be stopped the tour will show the way. bers, can still be seen on one ite floor has markings and in- Mostly kept locked now, and scriptions reproduced to indi- used as a wedding hall on hire, side. It was in this house that SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS Schwartz first thought of the cate whose memorials lie below, its pillars can tell us a lot of Vestry School for the children but it is just not the same, is it? Carnatic music history if only G Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has been priced of officers killed in a magazine The old wagon-vaulted ceiling they could. At almost the same at Rs.5 a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out your (on the same lines as the level is a unique three-storied cheque only to CHENNAI HERITAGE and send it, together with the COU- explosion in 1763. The Nawab th PON, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, lent a hand in funding it. From Mangammal Durbar Hall) has bell tower, 19 Century in vin- Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 or C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS 1766, the school functioned been dismantled and replaced tage. It combines elements of PVT. LTD., 62/63, GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 006. from the vestry of Christ with a flat roof. A false ceiling Indo-Saracenic and is topped by An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of our hides whatever there is on top. a Dravidian vimana! costs. Corporate support and YOUR support will continue to be essential for Church and became the Vestry Chennai Heritage and Madras Musings to play a greater role in creating aware- School. In 1812 it moved to St A metal spire now tops the A road originally used by ness about the city, its heritage and its environment. We therefore look for- church that probably had none processional elephants leads ward to your sending us your contributions IN ADDITION TO your John’s Church built in the subscriptions. newer cantonment area of to begin with. The stained glass half way up to the Rock Fort. A If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support from Trichy where it still functions. fanlights over the doors have village still exists here. On one survived intact, thankfully. The side of it is lower Pallava cave, those of you who have already made contributions, and if many more support- 2013 is its 250th year. ers join the bandwagon, we will not only be able to keep Madras Musings Christ Church has a marble altar has been given a new coat there being an upper one, much going, but also be able to continue awareness-building exercises on on-going projects as well as undertake one or two more such exercises. plaque too and it records its of gold paint. nearer the summit. The lower date of consecration and also Not far from here is the cave, dated to 580 AD, is a typi- Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION TO YOUR Bishop Heber School. Estab- cal rock-cut shrine with alcoves SUBSCRIPTIONS. If, say, you send in a cheque for Rs.500, we will treat Rs.100 of it towards subscription to Madras Musings for 2013-14 and the Our quizmaster V.V. lished in 1826, it commemo- for deities facing the entrance Ramanan is on a quizzing remaining Rs.400 as contribution towards the causes Chennai Heritage rates Reginald Heber, Lord and two empty sanctums on the espouses. round. His column will re- sume on his return. Bishop of Calcutta, who that extreme left and right. It is We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those newcomers who want to receive copies, sending in their subscriptions. – The Editor year died in Trichy while in his thought that these were Jaina bath tub. caves built by Mahendra January 16-31, 2013 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 The tales of 3 newsmakers

Three newsmakers. They have contributed immensely to society through their art, craft and sport. They belong to differnt generations but are bound by a common thread — overcoming odds to rise and shine. You will learn about their successes and struggles, their triumphs and tribulations in these three books now on the shelves.

Flame: The Inspiring Life of in herbal and Ayurvedic beauty for Slumdog Millionaire,” there the Film and Television Insti- off the cricket field had cap- My Mother Shahnaz Husain – products. was not a dry eye among the tute of India, Pune. His move to tured the people’s imagination, Nelofar Currimbhoy (Hach- In this heart-warming narra- movie goers in India. Boy, did Mumbai, his meeting with have the dreaded C? ette India, Rs. 295). tive, daughter Nelofar walks he do us proud along with A.R. Sanjay Leela Bhansali and Fiery batsman, deceptive The Times of India called this readers through the compelling Rahman! working on Black and his subse- bowler, brilliant fielder, Yuvraj, book “... a fascinating read for journey of a vivacious woman For Pookutty, life was never quent projects (including Yuvi to all those who love him, all who dare to dream!” How who created an iconic company easy. One of eight children born Ghajini), are all recounted for has always been a headline true! Beauty has never been while getting past personal and in an impoverished family in readers to fill their curiosity. maker – whether for his remark- the same since Shahnaz professional hurdles, and Vilakkupara, near Kollam in This is finally the story of a able skills with bat and ball or Hussain burst into the scene emerging as an Indian icon. man who took the cutting edge his glamorous lifestyle off the with her ‘Herbal’ mantra that Incidentally, Nelofar has of cinematic sound technology field. But it’s his courageous translated into creams and po- dedicated the proceeds from the G by into the ruthless film world of battle against a life-threatening tions that flew off shelves. sale of this book to her NGO, Savitha Gautam Mumbai and waited till interna- illness that has now earned him Married young, it was while Follow the Flame Foundation, tional glory sought him out. the greatest respect. living in Iran where her hus- that trains and empowers innu- This definitive translation by In this account, veteran merable women. band was working that Kerala, Pookutty had to study Baiju Natarajan is a must read journalist and cricket adminis- Shahnaz’s tryst with beauty and with a kerosene lamp as his vil- for movie buffs and anyone who trator Makarand Waingankar, cosmetology took shape. She * * * lage did not have electricity. loves a story well told. who has known Yuvi practically pursued it with passion and col- Sounding Off: Memoirs of Yet, he completed his studies since the day he was born, takes laborated with leading insti- an Oscar Winning Sound En- and joined the Government * * * a trip down memory lane as he tutes such as Swarzkopf, Chris- gineer – Resul Pookutty. Tr. Law College, Trivandrum, to Yuvi – Makarand Wain- remembers the young boy’s love tine Valmy, Lancôme and Lean Baiju Natarajan (Penguin, fulfil his father’s dream. But he gankar (Harper Sport, Rs. for the game. of Copenhagen. She then Rs. 399). was in love with cinema. 199). With inputs from Yuvraj’s turned an entrepreneur and At the 81st Academy Yet another amazing odyssey Sports enthusiasts in the na- parents, friends, peers and se- formed a company that func- Awards, when actor Will Smith of resilience and conviction, it tion were shocked when they nior players, and written with tioned out of her home. Today, announced “And the Oscar for was Pookutty’s passion for cin- learnt that Yuvraj Singh had rare insight and affection, it is a super-successful business- Best Sound Mixing goes to… ema that took him from the cancer. No way, how could this sure to inspire and move all woman, her brand is a byword Resul Pookutty and Ian Tapp Government Law College to young man whose antics on and those who leaf through it. A tinder box MORE MONEY FOR TOURISM (Continued from page 1) our State and in the rest of Is all this asking for too the country, vandalising of much? Surely, if we expect to waiting to explode why replacements and public conveniences is com- compete against international repairs become specialised, mon practice. So is making destinations, we need to set the (Continued from page 1) leading to delays. a mess of them. bar much higher. 3. Standard designs must in- And when the work is completed, they are supposed to inspect the volve standard layouts and site once again before issuing a compliance certificate. The same signages so that such conve- holds true for the water supply and electricity authorities as well. niences are recognised by CHENNAI HERITAGE What happens in reality is that such inspections are rarely done people. In our State, where No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, and approval is more of a bureaucratic procedure rather than literacy standards are var- Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 subjecting to actual inspection. This speaks volumes of the attitude ied, this is of utmost impor- builders, developers and civic authorities have towards public tance. It is necessary also to I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / safety. What matters most to the builders and those who connive have leaflets distributed at I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it with them is the commercial success such projects make possible. each location informing hereafter. visitors as to where ameni- Planning for such structures in George Town (or, for that mat- G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 ter, in any of the older areas of the city) requires greater sensitivity. ties can be found. 4. Man these facilities with (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, The indiscriminate approval for high-rises in the same locations MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year could result in enormous possibilities for such fire accidents to staff that is trained and 2012-13. occur. Ducting of cables is often never done and the wires are sim- recognises that it is perform- ply pulled from junction boxes and taken to the building where ing a service. Currently, re- G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment they are to be terminated. This is by itself a hazard. Secondly, ac- cruitment is mostly local and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai cess to all parts of a building from the street is next to impossible and there is just no training. Heritage an additional Rs...... Training must focus on considering that most of the streets were planned originally with (Rupees ...... ) Please keep / put me buildings sharing common walls. keeping a place spotlessly clean and will become sec- on your mailing list. If this be the problem with the new buildings, the older ones in ond nature to those trained Name : ...... these areas are prone to fire too. They contain enormous quanti- and those supervising them...... ties of dry timber, which is perfect fuel for fires to spread. More- The prevalent attitude is over, because of issues of ownership in many of these buildings, more of doing a favour, if Address: ...... poor maintenance and neglect result. It is, therefore, all the more there is any one present, ...... necessary for civic authorities to keep an eye on them through pe- and, more often than not, riodic inspections. there is nobody present...... What is being demanded is not something extraordinary. Any 5. Lastly, begin a public ser- Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for over- international city needs a proactive civic body that issues compli- vice campaign to educate seas postage alone payable to M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers ance certificates only after due-diligence processes are completed. the visiting public that they Pvt. Ltd. All other cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. Chennai, which at least on paper claims to be a world-class city, too have a responsibility to DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed Post only. need not and cannot be an exception. keep these places clean. In 8 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2013 An early scam in Madras ach passing day, new scams custody the estates and proper- As Ricketts died insolvent,it Eare exposed in one or an- ties of deceased British subjects was left to the House of Com- other corner of India with who- that would come under the con- mons to favourably consider the is-who in and out of the Gov- trol of the Registrar of the Su- compensation to the affected ernment getting caught in the preme Court in his official ca- persons out of public funds, as net. Here, however, I would like pacity. One of the directives no regulation of the Supreme to recall a scam of another age. was for the Registrar to exhibit Court existed that provided a It led to feathers being ruffled receipts of all such intestate es- security/deposit for his rightful as far away as in the House of tates every half year along with conduct out of which the losses Commons, London, during the their publication in the State could be compensated. Also, first quarter of the 19th Cen- Gazette and provide their cop- neither the Government of Ma- tury. It also led to the passing of ies to the Chief Secretary to be dras nor the English East India ‘An Act for the Relief of the sent to the East India Company Company could be held respon- Sufferers by the Insolvency of sible for this act of fraud com- Gilbert Ricketts Esquire, for- mitted by one of its officers over One of the Chitrakathi paintings seen at Inner Flow exhibition. merly Registrar of the Supreme G by Bharath whom no control was exercised. Court of Judicature at Madras’. Yeshwanth Hence was born the need for Till January 24: Theyyam, a hugely popular folk performance from the This bill was discussed based passing an Act to compensate North Malabar region of Kerala (at DakshinaChitra). on the report that was submi- in a speedy manner the losses Till January 30: Inner Flow, an exhibition of Chitrakathi paintings (at tted to a Select Committee of suffered by persons affected as a DakshinaChitra). the House of Commons that Directors in London. Before his result of Gilbert’s malpractices. January 25-31: The Kangilu of Karnataka is a dance performed to the was appointed to inquire into death, Gilbert is said to have The territorial revenues of the rhythm of the Dolu drum in honour of the deity to drive out evil the claims of Myles O’Relly, received 700,000 Pounds Ster- East India Company were to be from a village (at DakshinaChitra). Robert Sinclair and others. It ling worth of such estates of used to pay for the claims as no Till January 23: 36th Chennai Book Fair (at YMCA Physical Educa- appears that Gilbert Ricketts which 40,000 Pounds Sterling other funds were found that tion College ground, Nandanam). was appointed Registrar of the were outstanding and actually could be used. Recorder’s Court in Madras due to the rightful inheritors. However, the Bill never saw Till January 31: Village Heritage Festival, featuring the rhythms, move- near the end of 18th Century This became the subject of scru- the light of the day and was ments and colours of the different folk dances of South India (at DakshinaChitra). and, later, as the Registrar of tiny when the lawful kin of withdrawn on the second read- the Supreme Court in 1801. In Lt.Col. Edward O’Reilly and R. ing. The fate of the claimants February 2-12: ConCurrenCe, a comprehensive exhibition of artwork this capacity, he was empow- Sinclair, who died intestate, remains unclear. ranging from paintings and sculptures to digital prints by emerging ered to administer and control brought forward claims for The person in question, Gil- and established artists. They span several stylistic genres, ranging the estates and properties of compensation for such con- bert Ricketts, was the first pri- from pure abstraction to figuration with the focus on contemporaneity (at Forum Art Gallery). British subjects in the Madras trolled estates and properties. It vate owner of the property that Presidency who died without was found that the schedules of was to later become the leaving a will. estates/properties of the intes- nucleus of today’s Raj Bhavan in Gilbert Ricketts died in 1817 tates mentioned above, as well Chennai. It is interesting to READABILITY PLEASE in Madras very shortly after the as many others, were deliber- note that Ricketts too died in- Dear Readers, Supreme Court brought in ately omitted in exhibits pre- testate and his property came As letters from readers increase, we are receiving more and more hand written letters, regulations to take into safe sented by Ricketts. under the control of the Regis- many of them in a hand so small and illegible or large and scrawled as to be unreadable. trar of the Supreme Court. Ric- Often this leads to our discarding a letter, particularly if some part of it is unreadable. MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB ketts had heavily mortgaged the If you wish us to consider your letter for publication, please type it with enough space property to a bank and one Mr. between lines or write it using a medium hand, clearly dotting the ‘i-s’ and crossing the To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our keen interest Griffiths. A legal wrangle en- ‘t-s’. in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to requests from many well- Many readers also try to fill every square centimetre of a postcard space, making read- wishers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad who receive their sued and the bank emerged vic- ing or editing impossible. postal copies very late – for an online edition. Madras Musings is now on torious. It would later sell the Please help us to consider your letters more favourably by making them more legible the web at www.madras musings.com property to the Government for for us. THE EDITOR 10,000 pagodas. – THE EDITOR

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiahfor ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No. Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 Chennaiand printed 600 014, by Tprinted J George by Anu at Varghese Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt. Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.