Identification and Description of Feathers in Te Papa's Mäori Cloaks

Home , Helmeted guineafowl, Morepork, Shining bronze cuckoo, Swamp harrier

Hokimate P. Harwood Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, PO Box 467, Wellington, New Zealand ([email protected])

ABSTRACT: For the first time, scientific research was undertaken to identify the feathers to species level contained in 110 cloaks (käkahu) held in the Mäori collections of the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa (Te Papa). Methods of feather identification involved a visual comparison of cloak feathers with museum bird specimens and analysis of the microscopic structure of the down of feathers to verify bird order. The feathers of more than 30 species of bird were identified in the cloaks, and consisted of a wide range of native and introduced bird species. This study provides insight into understanding the knowledge and production surrounding the use of materials in the cloaks; it also documents the species of bird and the use of feathers included in the cloaks in Te Papa’s collections from a need to have detailed and accurate museum records.

KEYWORDS: Mäori feather cloaks, käkahu, cloak weaving, birds, feathers, harakeke, microscopic feather identiﬁcation, barbule, nodes, New Zealand.

Introduction (whatu aho rua) was used to secure attachments such as feathers, and hence was chosen for more decorative cloaks The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa (Te Papa) (Pendergrast 1987: 14). The feathers were typically bunched houses more than 300 Mäori käkahu (cloaks), of which 110 or butted together and woven into the cloak as it was being incorporate feathers. Fully feathered cloaks such as kahu made. By using the finger twining technique of whatu, the kiwi (kiwi-feather cloaks), kahu kura (käkä-feathered or red base of the feather shaft is secured to the vertical backing cloaks) and kahu huruhuru (feather cloaks) are docu mented. muka warps (whenu) using two pairs of smaller horizontal The remaining cloaks have feathers in the borders or in weft threads (aho rua), and the feather shaft is then bent small bunches, such as in korowai (cloaks that may have back on itself to hold it in place (Te Kanawa 1992: 34). hukahuka, or two-ply flax-fibre tassels) and korowai kärure Fragments of a seventeenth-century Mäori cloak from a (cloaks with unravelling two- or three-ply flax-fibre tassels) burial site in Strath Taieri in Central Otago were first (Fig.1). Feathers were also identified in kaitaka (finely woven cloaks with täniko, or colour geometric patterns, along the described by Hamilton (1892: 487) and later discussed by borders) and pihepihe (cloaks with cylindrical flax tags) Simmons (1968: 6), who suggested that, judging from the (Pendergrast 1987). presence of weka (Gallirallus australis), albatross (family The finer Mäori cloaks found in Te Papa’s collections are Diomedeidae) and moa (order Dinornithiformes) skin generally produced by scraping the leaves of the harakeke and feathers sewn and roughly attached to the fragments, (New Zealand flax, Phormium spp.), and then weaving the cloak was a prestige item. The find also exemplifies the the resulting muka (flax fibre) to create the foundation of the change of birds and feathers used in Mäori cloaks over cloak (Pendergrast 1997: 6). The single-pair twining method time, which is seemingly dependent on the materials (whatu aho pätahi) was employed for some coarser rain cloaks available, the preferred bird species, and the knowledge, or capes, whereas the technique of double-pair twining skills and innovation of the weaver at the time of production. 126 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Fig.1 Korowai kärure (cloak with unravelling flax-fibre tassels) (Te Papa ME014388).

Literature documenting nineteenth- and early twentieth- collection. In addition, the origin of feathers used in century Mäori feather cloaks mentions primarily the fol low- a large number of cloaks has remained scientifically unveri- ing endemic New Zealand species: brown kiwi (Apteryx spp.), fied until now. Various publications on Mäori cloaks and New Zealand pigeon (kererü, Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae), bird lore indicate that at least 27 native and eight introduced käkä (New Zealand bush parrot, Nestor meridionalis), bird species were used in käkahu after 1800. It is currently parakeet (käkäriki, Cyanoramphus spp.) and käkäpö (night accepted that all of the cloaks with feathers studied were parrot, Strigops habroptilus) (Hiroa 1911: 84). Feathers from produced post 1800. The study and description of micro- weka and the now extinct hüia (Heteralocha acutirostris) have scopic features of feathers from New Zealand birds and a also been used in käkahu (Te Kanawa 1992: 25). From comparison of cloak feathers against identified museum bird the latter half of the nineteenth century onwards, striking skins have facilitated the identification and verification of geometric designs incorporating feathers from newly intro- the bird species used in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks for the duced exotic birds such as peafowl (Pavo cristatus), helmeted museum’s permanent records. It also enhances our knowl- guinea fowl (Numida meleagris) and, later, pheasant edge of the avifauna utilised by Mäori, as well as how this (Phasianus colchicus) and domestic chicken (Gallus gallus var. has changed with the protection of native bird species, and domesticus) (Pendergrast 1987: 107) were sometimes mixed introduction of American and European game birds. with feathers from declining native bird species. The identification of feathers from microscopic structures Since the foundation of the Colonial Museum in 1865, Te in the down was established by American scientists like Papa’s cloak collection has grown, through gifts, loans, dona- Chandler (1916), who studied feather structure and its tions and acquisitions. Much of the information regarding taxonomic significance among birds. Day (1966) examined the origins and materials used in these items was either not feathers and hair microscopically from the gut contents of obtained or has been lost before their inclusion in the stoats in the British Isles to identify prey remains. More Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 127

recently, scientists from the Smithsonian Institution have little or no morphological characters (i.e. white, black or used downy structures of feathers and comparisons with brown feathers), and feathers that required verification, the museum bird skins to identify feather remains resulting bird groups they belong to were identified by comparing from US Air Force bird strikes (Laybourne & Dove 1994). diagnostic microscopic structures. Finally, a combination Microscopic analysis of feathers has also been used to of the two techniques – microscopic characters to deter mine identify birds in textiles from international anthropological the bird order and whole-feather identification from and archaeological studies (Dove & Peurach 2002; Rogers museum skins to identify the species/subspecies – were used. et al. 2002; Dove et al. 2005). It has also been applied It was estimated that for each cloak the number of bird successfully in museum collections to infer the possible species from which feathers were obtained ranged between provenance (or geographic origins) of collection items (Dove one and eight, with an average of three different bird species 1998; Pearlstein 2010). Dove & Koch (2010) have described per cloak. The number of species, as well as the number the key diagnostic features of feathers for the major bird of individual birds used, depended on the size of the birds, groups occurring in forensic ornithology. the types of feathers used, the number of feathers butted Microscopic feather identification in New Zealand is still or bunched together, and ultimately the size and design of in its infancy. At the date of publication there is no national the cloak. microscopic reference database of the features that A list of potential bird species was prepared, and a characterise the feathers of New Zealand bird species. Fast database of feather images was created from museum skins, alternative methods requiring less accuracy have been used including species names, sex, age and colour variations (see over microscopic identification – such as studying reference Fig.2). Owing to the size and fragility of the cloak and bird collections of feathers to identify New Zealand falcon (Falco skin collections, and their location in separate buildings, it novaeseelandiae) prey remains (Seaton et al. 2008). A was logistically more suitable to use an image database to national molecular database of some New Zealand birds compare cloak feathers with birdskin images. This is has assisted in the identification of birds from their DNA for contrary to other methodologies utilised by the Smithsonian historical and conservation purposes (Shepherd & Lambert Institution, where direct comparison of unknown feathers 2008; Seabrook-Davison et al. 2009), and the identification with the skins themselves is preferred. of emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae) feathers in a rare Mäori Detached feathers from bird skins were collected, and the cloak (Hartnup et al. 2009). species and feather types recorded to create a reference Microscopic analyses and DNA profiling have been database of microscopic images of the feather down, and to employed successfully to determine the origin of feathers in compare them with fallen cloak feathers. Detached cloak ethnological collections in overseas studies. Isotopic analysis feathers that had been collected and bagged over time (a of feathers, a science new to New Zealand, has also proven common museum practice) were used for microscopic effective, with isotope mapping tools used to geo-locate identification of some cloaks. These feathers were checked bird origins in international research (Hobson et al. 2007). and verified that they had originated from the corresponding These scientific methods have varying degrees of accuracy cloak based on their size, colour and pattern, if applicable. and present conservation issues relating to the extraction Identification methods utilising museum skins and of materials for analysis. micro scopic feather analyses were favoured over other techniques owing to the accuracy required, and the time and Materials, methods and monetary restrictions in identifying such a large number of cloaks. These techniques were also preferred as they did conventions not involve any destruction of the collection items. In Te Papa’s Mäori collections, 110 feathered cloaks were Downy barbs extracted from contour feathers of a verified examined using microscopic feather analysis and comparisons museum skin were dry-mounted onto glass slides, and exam- with museum bird skins. Feathers from at least 24 native ined using light microscopy (Leica DM500 at 40x, 100x and introduced birds, including species and subspecies, were and then 400x magnifications). Images were captured using identified in the cloaks (Table1). Where possible, bird species a fitted microscope camera (Leica ICC50), and the Leica were identified with accuracy by comparing whole cloak LAS EZ program was employed for processing images and feathers against museum bird skins. For cloak feathers with recording measurements. Similarly, detached cloak feathers 128 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Table 1 Native and introduced ( * ) bird species/subspecies identified in Te Papa’s Mäori cloak collection, by numbers of cloaks with at least one feather of the listed species. (Total number of cloaks = 110)

Number of Bird species cloaks with listed species

Brown kiwi – Apteryx spp.A 52

New Zealand pigeon, kererü – Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae (Gmelin, 1789) 45

Käkä, bush parrot – Nestor meridionalis (Gmelin, 1788)B 43

Tüï, parson bird – Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae novaeseelandiae (Gmelin, 1788) 35

Domestic chicken, heihei – Gallus gallus var. domesticus (Linnaeus, 1758)* 25

Common pheasant, peihana – ßPhasianus colchicus (Linnaeus, 1758)* 15

Peafowl (peacock) – ßPavo cristatus (Linnaeus, 1758)* 13

Weka, woodhen – Gallirallus australis (Sparrman, 1786)C 12

Pükeko, swamphen – Porphyrio melanotus melanotus (Temminck, 1820) 11

Parakeet, käkäriki – Cyanoramphus spp.D 10

Wild turkey – Meleagris gallopavo (Linnaeus, 1758)* 5

Albatross, toroa – family DiomedeidaeE 4

Mallard – Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos (Linnaeus, 1758)*F 4

Banded rail – Gallirallus philippensis (Linnaeus, 1766) 2

Long-tailed cuckoo, koekoeä – Eudynamys taitensis (Sparrman, 1787) 2

California quail – Callipepla californica (Shaw, 1798)* 2

Helmeted guineafowl – Numida meleagris (Linnaeus, 1758)* 2

Hüia – Heteralocha acutirostris (Gould, 1837) 2

Australasian bittern, matuku – Botaurus poiciloptilus (Wagler, 1827) 1

Käkäpö, night parrot – Strigops habroptilus (G.R. Gray, 1845) 1

Morepork, ruru – Ninox novaeseelandiae novaeseelanidae (Gmelin, 1788) 1

Swamp harrier, kähu – Circus approximans (Peale, 1848) 1

Shining bronze-cuckoo, pïpïwharauroa – Chrysococcyx lucidus (Gmelin, 1788) 1

Yellowhammer – Emberiza citrinella (Linnaeus, 1758)* 1

A North Island, Okarito, South Island and Stewart Island brown kiwi are included. B North Island käkä and South Island käkä are included. C North Island, western, buff and Stewart Island weka are included. D Red-crowned, yellow-crowned and orange-fronted parakeets are included. E All albatross species of the genera Diomedea and Thalassarche are included. F All varieties that interbreed with Anas superciliosa are included. Identiﬁcation and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 129

Fig.2 Feather types from bird skins from Te Papa’s collection used in comparisons with whole cloak feathers: (a) belly feathers from an albino North Island brown kiwi; (b) rump feathers from a common pheasant; (c) underwing covert feathers from a North Island käkä; (d) back feathers from a käkäpö; (e) vent feathers from a long-tailed cuckoo; (f ) throat tufts from a tüï. 130 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Downy barbules

Nodes Rachis

Downy barbules

Plumulaceous (downy) barbs Pennaceous barbs

Vane

Fig.3 New Zealand pigeon contour feather, showing penna- Tip of feather ceous and plumulaceous (downy) barbs, and the nodes on Distal barbules downy barbules (photo: Raymond Coory).

were dry-mounted for microscopic analysis of their nodes, to Proximal barbules place the feather within a bird order and, if possible, to identify the bird family or species/subspecies. Barb tip Contour feathers from adult skin specimens used for Barb base microscopic identification are described as feathers with Rachis Rachis (feather shaft) ‘fluffy’ down at the base of the feather, a distinct central shaft (feather shaft) Base of feather or rachis, and vanes (barbs) on either side, covering the body of the bird (Marchant & Higgins 1990: 38; Dove Fig.4 Diagrammatic structure of a down feather, showing the 1997: 47) (Figs3 and 4). Contour feathers can also be found orientation of barbules on barbs (modified from Day (1966) and Dove & Koch (2010)). in the wings and tail. The barbs at the tip of the feather are known as pennaceous barbs and have small hooklets that link together, providing structure to the feather. The downy structures at the base of the feather, the plumulaceous barbs, along the barbules. Pigmentation within the nodes and have perpendicular barbules attached (Dove & Koch 2010: along the barbules is also variable among birds. These micro- 21), which provide insulation for the bird. scopic features were observed and recorded for each Most downy barbules have generally distinctive structures feather that was not identifiable by direct comparisons with called nodes and/or prongs (see Figs5–8). The length of museum skins. the space between two nodes is measured as the internodal Each feather sample was studied for nodal morphology, length (Dove 1997: 51). The average length and width of pigmentation patterns, length of barbules, presence of villi the downy barbules vary depending on the bird order. (transparent fringe-like projections on the base of barbules; Additional parameters useful in systematic studies of feathers Fig. 8e) and other diagnostic characters (e.g. rings, triangle- are size/shape, and, sometimes, the distribution of nodes shaped nodes) that would allow identification of the group Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 131

Fig.5 Photomicrographs of downy barbules from New Zealand birds examined: (a) barbules from a North Island brown kiwi – Casuariiformes; (b) pronged nodes from a North Island brown kiwi – Casuariiformes; (c) barbules from a domestic chicken – Galliformes; (d) multiple ringed nodes from a domestic chicken – Galliformes; (e) barbules from a mallard – Anseriformes; (f ) triangular nodes at the barbule tip from a mallard – Anseriformes. 132 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Fig.6 Photomicrographs of downy barbules from New Zealand birds examined: (a) barbules from a Gibson’s albatross – Procellariiformes; (b) pronged nodes from a Gibson’s albatross – Procellariiformes; (c) barbules from a swamp harrier – Accipitriformes (40x); (d) asymmetric spined nodes from a swamp harrier – Accipitriformes; (e) barbules from a weka – Gruiformes; (f ) internodal pigmentation from a weka – Gruiformes. Identiﬁcation and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 133

Fig.7 Photomicrographs of downy barbules from New Zealand birds examined: (a) barbules from a New Zealand pigeon – Columbiformes; (b) crocus-shaped nodes at the barbule base from a New Zealand pigeon – Columbiformes; (c) barbules from a red-crowned parakeet – Psittaciformes; (d) expanded nodes at the barbule base from a red-crowned parakeet – Psittaciformes; (e) barbules from a long-tailed cuckoo – Cuculiformes (100x); (f ) pre-nodal pigmented nodes from a long-tailed cuckoo – Cuculiformes. 134 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Fig.8 Photomicrographs of downy barbules from New Zealand birds examined: (a) barbules from a morepork – Strigiformes; (b) large pigmented nodes at the barbule base from a morepork – Strigiformes; (c) barbules from a hüia – Passeriformes; (d) closely spaced pigmented nodes from a hüia – Passeriformes; (e) villi at the barbule base from a hüia – Passeriformes. Identiﬁcation and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 135

of birds to which it belonged (Dove & Koch 2010: 21). museum skins alone. A feather from a North Island brown As diagnostic features for bird orders may vary among kiwi was microscopically examined to represent this group species, feather types, and even between barbs and barbules of birds, and to determine general features of brown kiwi on a feather, it was important to take several samples, and feathers for cloak identifications. Diagnostic characteristics to use whole feathers for microscopic and museum skin unique to this order are given in Table 2. comparisons where possible. Kiwi feathers are hair-like and the barbs are long and Methods and conventions for the identification of filamentous. Chandler (1916: 293) described the micro scop- feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks follow those described ic features of feathers from a great spotted kiwi (Apteryx by Chandler (1916) and Day (1966), while descriptions haastii) as having some downy barbs at the base of the of nodes and pigmentation follow Dove & Koch (2010). feather, with small but distinct nodes and prongs present Descriptions of feather colour follow Svensson (1992), and on barbules. Barbules were measured at 2–3mm long in descriptions of feather type follow diagrams from Marchant well-developed downy regions (Chandler 1916: 294). The & Higgins (1990). Bird nomenclature, vernacular names micro scopic examination of A.mantelli for this research con- and sequence of orders for New Zealand birds follow the firmed similar characteristics within the family Apterygidae. Checklist of the Birds of New Zealand (Gill et al. 2010). The barbules are medium to long, transparent and flat at the base, tapering to thin and spindly (hair-like) at the tip (Fig.5a). Nodes are minute and flat, sometimes with four Microscopic feather descriptions short, symmetrical prongs that point towards the tip of and their use in cloaks the barbule (Fig.5b). The tips of some barbules also have There are 21 bird orders present in New Zealand (Gill et large prongs. al. 2010). Feathers from 12 bird orders were identified in Brown kiwi feathers were identified in 52 of Te Papa’s Te Papa’s cloaks, and the use of species from each order is cloaks, with feathers fully covering the cloak (kahu kiwi) or discussed below. Feathers from 11 bird orders were examined applied in strips or small bunches. Kiwi feathers from the and identified microscopically; key diagnostic features of 16 body of the bird, roughly uniform in size and colour, were feathers belonging to 16 bird species/subspecies from those recorded, with the larger, strongly coloured back feathers 11 bird orders are summarised in Table 2. The use of differ- being more prevalent. Hiroa (1911: 84) also noted the pref- ent feather types is discussed with respect to their presence erence of back feathers for käkahu. Most of Te Papa’s kahu in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks only. Similar feather types from kiwi are woven to show the ventral side of the feather facing museum skin species and those recorded in the cloaks outwards, referred to as whakaarara by Hiroa (1911: 84), have been microscopically examined. This is an initial but five cloaks have feathers placed as on the bird, referred to attempt to describe the feathers of New Zealand bird orders as tämoe by Hiroa (1911: 84). The calamus, or quill, at the at a microscopic level, and to document diagnostic feather very base of the feather is generally woven into the cloak characteristics for replication in future identification research. using the muka aho (weft threads). In three cloaks, the tip of a single feather was woven into the cloak with the calamus Order Casuariiformes, pointing outwards. Natural kiwi feather colours in the cloak collection range family Apterygidae – kiwi from white (albino), faded cream or off-white, to light Kiwi are part of a group of birds known as ratites, which brown, medium brown, rufous (reddish brown), dark brown includes emus, cassowaries and moa. Kiwi belong to the and black-brown. Pure white (albino) brown kiwi feathers family Apterygidae and comprise five species, three species are defined as lacking any kind of pigmentation in the shaft, of brown kiwi (including two subspecies) and two species of barbs or barbules (Fig.2a). Albino feathers were recorded in spotted kiwi (Gill et al. 2010: 19). It is inferred that feathers seven cloaks, observed in patterns as strips, or as single from the North Island brown kiwi (Apteryx mantelli) and feathers among other brown feathers (Fig.9). Albino kiwi South Island brown kiwi (A.australis australis) are present birds were present but rare in pre-1900 brown kiwi throughout the cloak collection. However, it was not populations, and white kiwi feathers would have been highly possible to identify accurately the feathers of brown kiwi to coveted by Mäori for their inclusion in käkahu. Albinism in species level using microscopy and comparisons with kiwi ranged from single feathers to patches of white feathers 136 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011) Pigment and node distribution on barbules and node distribution Pigment Little or no pigment in nodes and barbules. all along barbules, flat with small prongs Nodes towardsthese becoming thinner and fewer barbule tips. Little pigment in barbules and little to medium nodes at barb base. in nodes. Expanded middle of barbules, bases nodes detach In and form multiple ring-like nodes. pigment in barbules, with little to medium Medium arein nodes. Nodes all along barbules, and are globular, or expanded with few multiple ring-like nodes. large prongs. tips of barbules have Very only prongs mid-barb to tip have from Barbules middle of barbule. Little or no pigment in from barbules, nodes and prongs. to four Two Little pigment in barbules or prongs. at each interval,prongs symmetrical in pairs. slightly curvedProngs outwards towards tip, decreasing barbule base to tip. from in size with light to little pigment. Nodes have Barbules medium pigmentation, small and bulbous, nodes decreasing along barbules. Pronged in size are closely spaced at barbule base and tip. areBarbules heavily pigmented and wide. length is uniformly short all along barbules. Prong spaces areInternodal at tips, where uniform except nodes are closely spaced. areBarbules thin, with medium to heavy nodes. around pigmentation except Diagnostic features of feather features Diagnostic Barbules areBarbules medium to long and hair-like but distinct nodes with four (Fig.5a). Minute all along barbules that small symmetrical prongs decrease (Fig.5b). at Longer prongs in size barbule tip. are ring-like Barbules long (Fig.5c). Multiple structures nodes in middle of barbules, surround in barbules at base of barbs only (Fig.5d). areBarbules longer and thinner than in Gallus multiple feather specimen. Considerably fewer ring-like nodes compared with Gallus. areBarbules short, thread-like and thin (Fig.5e). large triangular nodes to four distinctive Two in barbules are located at barbule tips only, at base of barbs (Fig.5f ). areBarbules very short but slightly increase in barb base to tip (Fig.6a).length from Four symmetrical transparent at each interval prongs along most barbules (Fig.6b). pairs of areTwo Barbules long (Fig.6c). nodes at intervalsasymmetrical pronged at base of barbules and tips of barbule (Fig.6d). Middle nodes. has small prongless areBarbules straight and medium brown, dark arelength (Fig.6e). Nodes indistinct. Small transparent at node intervals, prongs pigment is (Fig.6f prongs lacking around ). areBarbules grey and short to medium in four expanded nodes at have length. Barbules base of distal barbules at barbs. description Feather type and down Feather Brown back feathers. Brown middle sample from Barb of down. areBarbs long to very long. and white barredBlack belly arefeather. Barbs long, fine sample and dense. Barb middle of down. from belly feathers. Brown and is fine and grey, Down sample from dense. Barb middle of down. and white speckled Brown belly feather. base sample from Barb of feather. White underwing covert is dense. feather. Down middle sample from Barb of down. Cream belly feather shaft. line down with brown middle sample from Barb of down. flank feather brown Dark with medium brown White barb sample mottling. middle of down. from black back feather. Iridescent areBarbs long and white. middle sample from Barb of down. Gallus gallus Gallus (Linnaeus, 1758) Circus approximans Circus (Bartlett, 1852) (Linnaeus, 1758) (Linnaeus, 1758) (Temminck, 1820) (Temminck, Porphyrio melanotus Porphyrio (Sparrman, 1786) (Sparrman, of feather specimens bird Summary of microscopic examination of bird feathers identified in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks. Papa’s SummaryTe examination of bird of microscopic feathers identified in domesticus Order, family and species/subspecies Order, Order Casuariiformes ApterygidaeFamily kiwi – brown Island North mantelli Apteryx Order Galliformes Phasianidae Family chicken – Domestic var. Order Gruiformes Rallidae Family Pükeko – melanotus Order Galliformes Phasianidae Family Common pheasant – colchicus Phasianus Order Anseriformes Anatidae Family Mallard platyrhynchos – Anas platyrhynchos Order Procellariiformes Diomedeidae Family – albatross Gibson’s Diomedea antipodensis gibsoni 1992) (RobertsonWarham, & Order Accipitriformes Accipitridae Family harrier – Swamp (Peale, 1848) (Peale, Order Gruiformes Rallidae Family australis – Gallirallus weka Western australis Table 2 Table Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 137 Pigment and node distribution on barbules and node distribution Pigment Barbules and nodes have little pigment. and nodes have Barbules nodes at barbule base crocus-shaped Quadrilobed then they abruptly decrease towards in size only, barbule tips. little to medium pigmentation and have Barbules in nodes medium to heavy pigmentation, except node extremities. nodes present Pigmented along barbules become closer and thinner towards barbule tip. are in lobes. Nodes pigmented except become longer and thinner towards barbule Nodes prongs. and some have tip, limited to top of nodes in barbules at Pigment decrease Nodes at in size middle and base of barb. at barbule tip are Nodes verybase and mid-barb. thin, long and closely spaced. Large pigmented triangular nodes at barbule base, with a gradual decrease to smaller nodes at middle, and very thin nodes at barbule tips, these with some prongs. areBarbules wide, pigmented only at nodes. spaces areInternodal short, becoming very short are Nodes presentat barbule tip. all along barbules, gradually decreasing along barbule. in size areBarbules wide, width gradually decreases along in prongs, pigment in nodes except barbule. Heavy little to medium pigment in internodal spaces. triangular, gradually decreasingNodes at in size barbule tip. Little to medium pigmentation in barbules, heavy spaces of medium length, in nodes. Internodal shorter towards barbule tips. Diagnostic features of feather features Diagnostic Barbules areBarbules long and ‘wispy’, tapering to very to six expanded thin at tips (Fig.7a). Four nodes at base of barbules (Fig.7b).crocus-shaped areBarbules long to very long, with shorter nodes occur at Expanded barbules at barb tip. medium intervals, larger at barb base, globular at barb tip. and with small prongs at mid-barb, areBarbules medium to long, decreasing in length towards barb tip (Fig.7c). pigmented nodes at base of barbule Expanded (Fig.7d), smaller nodes at medium intervals along remainder. small can have Nodes transparent extremities. areBarbs short and barbules are medium to long in length (Fig.7e). base of barbules are At long, thin, bell-shaped nodes with pre-nodal pigmentation (Fig.7f ). areBarbs long, and barbules are medium to long expanded nodes occur at medium (Fig.8a). Dark, intervals at barbule base (Fig.8b), globular nodes at mid-barbule, and thin, long nodes tip. are areBarbules medium to long. Nodes heavily pigmented and quadrilobed, with small prongs. areVilli present at base of barb and barbules. areBarbules short to medium in length (Fig.8c). areNodes heavily pigmented and quadrilobed, with short internodal spaces (Fig.8d). knobbed ends occur at with distinctive Villi barbules (Fig.8e). base of proximal areBarbules short are to medium length. Nodes pigmented and quadrilobed, with rudimentary There are at base of barbules. prongs few villi at base of barbules. description Feather type and down Feather White belly feather. is white and dense. Down base of sample from Barb feather. belly feather. Red-tipped is greyDown and white. middle sample from Barb of down. Light green breast feather. is dense. Down sample from Barb middle of down. White belly feather with a shaft. line down brown Barb is dense and grey. Down middle of down. sample from creamBrown, and white mottled belly feather. Down is soft and dense. Barb base of feather. sample from black breastIridescent is grey. feather. Down middle sample from Barb of down. breastBlack feather. is dense. Down base of sample from Barb feather. Canary-yellow flank feather. is dense. Down middle sample from Barb of down. Hemiphaga Nestor meridionalis Nestor Emberiza citrinella Emberiza (Gmelin, 1789) (Gmelin, 1788) (Gmelin, 1788) (Lorenz, 1896) of feather specimens bird Order, family and species/subspecies Order, Order Psittaciformes Strigopidae Family käkä – Island North septentrionalis Order Passeriformes Meliphagidae Family novaeseelandiae Tüï – Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae Order Passeriformes Callaeidae Family acutirostris Hüia – Heteralocha 1837) (Gould, Order Passeriformes Emberizidae Family – Yellowhammer novaeseelandiae Order Psittaciformes Psittacidae Family parakeet – Cyanoramphus Red-crowned novaezelandiae novaezelandiae 1787) (Sparrman, Order Cuculiformes Cuculidae Family Long-tailed cuckoo – 1787) taitensis (Sparrman, Eudynamys Order Strigiformes Strigidae Family novaeseelandiae Morepork – Ninox novaeseelandiae (Linnaeus, 1758) Order Columbiformes Columbidae Family pigeon – Zealand New 138 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

nodes in the middle of the barbules (Fig.5d). At the middle and tip of the barb, smaller nodes appear along the barbules. The pheasant barbules in this study were generally longer and thinner than those from Gallus. Node shapes varied from expanded to small nodes with detaching sections, seen as multiple ‘rings’ on barbules. Pheasant barbules have considerably fewer multiple rings than those from chickens, averaging one to two barbules with rings per barb. Multiple ring-like nodes appeared on distal barbules only. Barbules on turkey feathers were described by Day (1966: 213) as having neither characteristic shapes nor multi-nodal structures. Chicken feathers of various types, breeds and colours were recorded in 25 Mäori cloaks. Many feather colour combi- Fig.9 Close-up of albino brown kiwi feathers in a kahu kiwi nations were present, from single to multiple feather colour (kiwi-feather cloak) (Te Papa ME002701). combinations in various patterns. Feather colours ranged from white, cream and gold to crimson, scarlet, brown, grey and iridescent black, as well as dyed feathers. The bicoloured amongst brown feathers (partial albinism), and to pure or hackle feathers from the neck and back, as well as the breast full albinism (Buller 1873: 310, 322). and belly feathers of the chicken, are widespread in the cloak For Mäori, kahu kiwi represent mana (status and collection. Chicken feathers are arranged in strips, bunches prestige). They are the most common type of feathered and on borders in cloaks. cloak in Te Papa’s collections. At least five different kahu Strikingly coloured and patterned feathers from male kiwi have hidden feathers from other birds, including hüia, pheasants were identified in the cloak collection. Breast and käkä, and weka, which can be viewed only when the back feathers, as well as those from the belly, flank, nape and surrounding feathers are lifted. One kahu kiwi has concealed rump, were recorded in 15 cloaks from museum skin chicken and pheasant feathers as well a loop of green wool. comparisons (Fig.2b). Pheasant feathers are displayed in Brown kiwi feathers were also woven to form a word on one the cloaks in small bunches, as strips, or as single feathers feather cloak. mixed with those from other species. Identifications of feathers from peafowl, turkey (Meleagris Order Galliformes, family Phasianidae – gallopavo), California quail (Callipepla californica) and guinea introduced game birds fowl present in Te Papa’s cloaks were made from comparisons against birdskin images, and without microscopic Feathers from a domestic chicken (Gallus gallus var. domes - analysis. Peacock (male peafowl) feathers were observed in 13 ticus) and a common pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) were cloaks. Iridescent blue feathers from the neck, green ‘peashell’ examined microscopically (Table2) for the identification of feathers from the back, and black and white mottled feath- cloak feathers. ers from the scapular were recorded. The iridescent ‘eyes’ Chandler (1916: 340) observed that down from Galli- and herl (barbs) from the tail were also visually identified in formes is dense and that barbules are long, potentially one kahu huruhuru, in which they created a unique and reaching 5mm. The barbules have characteristic ring-like stunning effect (Fig.10). Striking iridescent turkey feathers multi-nodal structures, found on closely situated distal were identified in five cloaks. The most common turkey barbules near the base of the barb, sometimes totalling two feathers in the cloaks were white-tipped, barred brown to three nodes linked together on the barbules (Day 1966: and black feathers from the upper tail, and iridescent black 213). Microscopic examination of Gallus feathers showed feathers from the breast. Different turkey feathers were incor- the distinctive ring-like nodes in the middle of the barbules porated into cloak patterns, in bunches or strips, or as single at the base of the barb. The barbules are long (Fig.5c). Ring- feathers mixed with those of other species. like nodes are sometimes multiple and appear to move freely Vertically striped brown and white side belly feathers along the barbule, having detached from the base of small of California quail, together with mottled brown, cream Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 139

Fig.10 Kahu huruhuru (feather cloak) with peacock-tail feathers (Te Papa ME003723). and white belly feathers, are displayed in small bunches Duck barbules are described by Chandler (1916: 329) as as contrasting colours against surrounding feathers of generally less than 1mm long and distinctive only at the tip, other species. The distinctive white-spotted grey feathers where he noted between two and eight large, well-developed of the guinea fowl are easily identifiable in two of Te nodes followed by a slender tip. According to Day (1966: Papa’s cloaks, attached as small and large bunches within 214), anatids have easily recognisable, large triangular- cloak patterns. shaped nodes, located only at the tips of the barbules and barbules can measure 1.5–2mm long. Anas barbules Order Anseriformes, family Anatidae – situated at the base of the barb are simple, short, thin and thread-like, with two to four characteristic large nodes at ducks, geese and swans the tips (Fig.5e). The nodes at the tips are significantly While this order includes numerous native and introduced expanded and triangular, and are followed by two to four bird species (Gill et al. 2010: 30), to date only feathers of the large pronged nodes (0.01mm long) (Fig.5f ). The distal tip introduced mallard (Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos) have of a barbule is usually a single thin point. been identified in Te Papa’s cloaks. Mallards were initially Mallard feathers were identified in four cloaks, origi nating introduced from the United Kingdom in 1865 (Long 1981: from the underwing (white feathers), the sides (brown and 55), and have since widely hybridised with native grey black feathers) and the belly (black and white speckled or duck, or pärera (A.superciliosa). A feather specimen from vermiculated feathers) of the bird. A single mallard feather the belly of a mallard was studied microscopically to iden - was found concealed alongside a single white (albino) brown tify cloak feathers to this order. Key characteristics are kiwi feather in a kahu kiwi. Mallard feathers were also found summarised in Table2. in strips on borders and in geometric patterns. 140 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Order Procellariiformes, family Diomedeidae – albatrosses The family Diomedeidae is represented in New Zealand by 17 species of albatross (Gill et al. 2010: 64). A feather specimen from the underwing of a Gibson’s albatross (Diomedea antipodensis gibsoni) was studied and its characteristics are recorded in Table 2. Chandler (1916: 305) described barbules from the wandering albatross (Diomedea exulans) as short, reaching only 1mm long, and having forward-curved, asymmetrical prongs, either single or double, sometimes measuring up to 0.04mm long. Microscopic examination of a feather from a Gibson’s albatross confirmed that the barbules are short Fig.11 Close-up of swamp harrier and Australasian bittern and wide at the base, and longer and spindly towards the tip feathers in a kahu huruhuru (feather cloak) (Te Papa of the barb. There are prongs all along most barbules ME014385). (Fig.6a), these being longer at the base of the barbule. Most barbules have two to four prongs at intervals, with one pair 1966: 215). Chandler (1916: 336) observed a more definite sometimes longer than the other (asymmetrical) (Fig.6b). distinction, noting that in hawks the barbules are long and White albatross body feathers, particularly from the slender with small nodes and short prongs at the tips, where- breast and belly, were observed in Te Papa’s cloaks arranged as in falcons they have larger, heavily pigmented nodes, with in small bunches within patterns, in strips, in borders, and slight kinks in the barbules. Dove & Koch (2010: 39) suggest as single feathers alongside those of other species. that the diagnostic features of hawk feathers are long to very Order Ciconiiformes, long barbules, with little pigment in the barbules and no pigment in the nodes. The nodes also have some spines family Ardeidae – herons and bitterns (prongs) that appear asymmetrical in length. Barbules of the Large, mottled cream and dark brown feathers from the swamp harrier are long, with light to medium stippled pig- rump, flank, breast and upperwing of the Australasian ment (Fig.6c), and have lightly pigmented pronged nodes bittern (Botaurus poiciloptilus) were identified in one cloak that appear asymmetrical and are closely spaced at intervals by comparisons with museum skins, without the use of on the barbule base and tips (Fig.6d). microscope examination. These distinctive body feathers Multiple bicoloured swamp harrier feathers (white and are large and, judging from their placement in the cloak as brown or brown and light brown) were identified in one of vertical strips, it is estimated that only one bird would have Te Papa’s cloaks. White, brown and light brown feathers from been used for the cloak (Fig.11). the belly, vent and flanks were also identified using compari - sons with museum skins. Swamp harrier feathers are woven Order Accipitriformes, in small bunches in vertical strips on a kahu huruhuru, along- family Accipitridae – eagles and hawks side Australasian bittern, käkä and New Zealand pigeon feathers, as well as undyed wool in horizontal strips (Fig.11). In New Zealand, the family Accipitridae includes only one breeding species, and few occasional visitors and extinct Order Gruiformes, family Rallidae – species (Gill et al. 2010: 169). A microscopic study of a feather specimen from a swamp harrier (Circus approximans) rails, gallinules and coots was made, and its diagnostic features are summarised in Feathers of species of weka and pükeko (Porphyrio melanotus Table2. melanotus) were identified in the Te Papa cloaks. Table2 Barbule nodes are inconspicuous in the down of hawks, summarises microscopic characteristics observed in a feather and often have long, asymmetrical prongs and little pig- of a western weka (Gallirallus australis australis), and in one mentation, while barbules are short, 1.5–2mm long (Day from a pükeko. Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 141

Chandler (1916: 353) measured rallid barbules at 1.5– Order Columbiformes, 3.5mm long, and described them as having short internodal family Columbidae – pigeons and doves spaces that are heavily pigmented along most of the barbule. Day (1966: 214) described typical rallid barbules as short The native New Zealand pigeon (Hemiphaga novaesee- and stout, 1.5–2mm long, with two to four swollen, heart- landiae) is most likely the only species of this order present shaped nodes at their base, which become less swollen and in Te Papa’s cloaks. Microscopic features of feathers from this pigeon are summarised in Table2. closer together towards the barbule tip. Weka barbules are of Body feathers from columbids have a significant amount medium length, very wide all along but abruptly decreasing of down in the breast and, particularly, in the belly. The in width immediately after the prongs, producing a scaling rachis is also distinctively flattened at the calamus. Barbules effect (Fig.6e). The nodal structure and internodal spaces from columbids have been described as having three to eight are difficult to determine in western weka barbules, which are large, expanded and conspicuous nodes at the base, with wide, indistinct, and heavily pigmented along most of their another three to eight less conspicuous nodes decreasing in length, with four small prongs at intervals separating the size towards the barbule tip, where there may be minute pigmentation (Fig.6f ). Small symmetrical prongs appear all prongs (Chandler 1916: 361). The majority of barbules are along the barbules with little or medium pigment. long and measure up to 3–4mm in length despite some Pükeko barbules share more of the typical characteristics variation among genera (Chandler 1916: 361; Day 1966: of other Gruiformes, and differ considerably from those of 214). Dove & Koch (2010) also noted some asymmetry in weka in microscopic features. Pükeko barbules have four node sizes in distal and proximal barbules. large quadrilobed nodes, at the base of distal barbules from New Zealand pigeon feathers have typical columbid the base of the barbs; in proximal barbules these nodes barbules, being long with four to six large crocus-shaped appear smaller, indicating a characteristic of asymmetry as (four-lobed) nodes at the base of most barbules (Figs7a,b). seen in this order. These barbules appear thin, with medium Node size abruptly decreases near the middle of the barbule, to heavy pigmentation except in and just after the nodes, and until there are minute or no nodes, and there may be three are also shorter than those seen in weka. Pükeko barbules at to four pairs of long, transparent prongs at the barbule tip. mid-barb have small pronged nodes all along their length Internodal spaces are uniformly long, and barbules and and at the tip of the barb; short barbules have long prongs nodes have little pigment. at the base and tips. Feathers from the New Zealand pigeon are widespread Weka feathers from the back, breast, belly and rump were throughout the cloak collection, having been identified in found in 12 of Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks. The species could not 45 cloaks. The green neck feathers, and white breast and be determined based on microscopic and skin comparisons belly feathers are the most common types found. Maroon alone. As with brown kiwi feathers, weka feathers are often and ‘teal green’ back and upperwing coverts are also present turned over on cloaks, with the ventral surface facing to a lesser degree. The white and green feathers are used outwards. Single or small bunches of weka feathers are dis- either in strips, borders or contrasting patterns. One kahu persed among brown kiwi feathers in two kahu kiwi, and huruhuru features the green neck feathers, which covers several different body feathers are identified in the main most of the cloak. central pattern of a kahu weka (weka-feather cloak). Pükeko feathers in Te Papa’s cloaks are mainly purple-blue Order Psittaciformes – feathers from the breast and belly, but white feathers from parrots and parakeets the vent under the tail and black feathers from the back are The endemic käkäpö and käkä belong to the family also present. Feather colours from this species range from Strigopidae, while native parakeets belong to the family pastel blue to royal blue, and are used in strips, small Psittacidae (Gill et al. 2010: 249). Feathers of all three kinds bunches and borders. of birds from this order were identified in cloaks. Feathers The distinctive small black and white barred belly from a North Island käkä (Nestor meridionalis septentrionalis) feathers from the banded rail (Gallirallus philippensis)were and a red-crowned parakeet (Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae confirmed using birdskin comparisons. These feathers novaezelandiae) were analysed microscopically and their key adorned two cloaks in the form of strips and small bunches. characteristics summarised in Table2. 142 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Fig.12 Kahu huruhuru (feather cloak) with native New Zealand pigeon, käkä, tüï and parakeet feathers (Te Papa ME004275).

Chandler (1916: 365) gives key features for these birds which become longer towards the tip of the barbules. There as small heart-shaped or globular pigmented nodes along is medium to heavy pigmentation in käkä nodes, with little the length of the barbules, and short, lightly pigmented to medium pigment in internodal spaces. internodal spaces. Also, nodes are large at the base of Red-crowned parakeet barbules are also long, decreasing the barbule and minute at the tip. Dove & Koch (2010: in length towards the barb tip. Barbules generally remain the 50) suggest that the diagnostic features for Psittaciformes same width along their length (Fig.7c). In the feather are the long to very long barbules, widely ﬂared pigmented examined, from the middle of the downy area, barbules nodes along barbules, and absence of villi at the base from the base of the barbs had more symmetrical droplet- of barbules. shaped nodes in their middle. At the base of the barb and at Käkä barbules are long, straight and pointed towards the base of the barbules, the nodes are widely spaced, the barb tip, and vary in width. Nodes are present along the expanded and heavily pigmented except in the tips of the whole length of barbules, gradually decreasing in size. Nodes lobes (Fig.7d). Nodes are present all along barbules, with from barbules at the barb base are short and expanded at the little to medium pigmentation in internodal spaces. At mid- tip. At mid-barb, triangular nodes decrease to form globular barb, nodes are droplet-shaped, heavily pigmented and some nodes in the middle of the barbules, continuing to the tip. have small transparent prongs. At the tip of the barb, At the tip of the barb there are minute prong-like nodes, barbules have long, thin prongs that are closely spaced. Identiﬁcation and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 143

Colour variations of käkä feathers in Te Papa’s cloaks migrants, breeding in New Zealand each spring (Gill et al. indicate that both the North Island käkä and South Island 2010: 261). Feathers of both species have been identified in käkä (Nestor meridionalis meridionalis) subspecies are present Te Papa’s cloaks. Microscopic examination was conducted in the collection, based on comparisons with museum bird on a long-tailed cuckoo feather, and data summarised in skins. Käkä feathers were identified in 43 of the cloaks. Table2. Weavers primarily used the light orange to crimson-red Chandler (1916: 365) described feathers from Cuculi - underwing coverts (Fig.2c) and the red-tipped belly feathers. formes as having long, slender barbules, at least 2mm in Four of Te Papa’s cloaks contain käkä feathers as their main length, with globular nodes in the form of rounded droplets. feature. Two cloaks are catalogued as kahu kura or käkahu The nodes were large near the barbule base, and smaller kura and primarily utilise the orange käkä feathers; where towards the tip. He also noted that the internodal spaces ‘kura’ may refer to the colour red or reflect high (chiefly) were long, slender and heavily pigmented, particularly just status. The other two cloaks, catalogued as kahu käkä or before the nodes. Long-tailed cuckoo barbs are short, with käkahu kaka, predominately feature the red or rusty-brown medium to long barbules (Fig.7e). The nodes at the barb feathers, and may specifically be named after the bird. base are distinct in that the pigmentation is pre-nodal, being Käkä feathers were recorded in cloak borders and geo- located just before the main node on the barbules, and form metric patterns, while single or small bunches have been used a bell shape (Fig.7f ) (Dove & Koch 2010: 27). These to lift the colour of some cloaks, a technique described by Te nodes are quadrilobed and gradually decrease in size towards Kanawa (1992: 26). In this, brightly coloured feathers are the tip of the barbule, where they have the same width as the used as a contrast against darker feathers in the background. barbule. There is heavy pigmentation before the nodes on Also, where single or small bunches of käkä feathers were barbules at the base and middle of the barb. Barbules at hidden underneath the feathers of other species, it is possible the tip of barbs have little to medium pigmentation, with they were used as possible weaver ‘signatures’, a concept that little pigment in the nodes. The nodes are distributed all is discussed below. along the barbule length and are uniform in size. Light green native parakeet feathers appear in strips, Long-tailed cuckoo feathers were identified in two of Te bunches, borders and geometric patterns. Single feathers Papa’s cloaks: white breast feathers with a central brown are also used to lift the colour from surrounding feathers. Light green feathers from the breast, belly, crown (head) and line; white side belly or flank feathers; and vent feathers back were observed. One cloak includes blue-green with a brown ‘V’ shape across the feather (Fig.2e). Shining upperwing covert feathers, and other cloaks feature the light bronze-cuckoo feathers were identified by comparisons with green head feathers tipped with red from the crown of the images of museum skin feathers, but not with microscopic bird (i.e. red-crowned parakeet). Parakeet feathers were analysis. Iridescent light green and white horizontal barred often woven into cloak patterns alongside white and green feathers from the breast and belly, and iridescent green back New Zealand pigeon feathers, orange käkä feathers and feathers were recorded in the borders of a kahu kiwi. black tüï feathers (Fig.12). Käkäpö feathers from the belly, breast, back and upper- Order Strigiformes, family Strigidae – wing were easily identified by comparisons with museum owls skin images (Fig.2d). Only one cloak in Te Papa’s collection, The morepork (Ninox novaeseelandiae novaeseelandiae) is a kahu kiwi, featured käkäpö feathers. In this garment, green, the only extant native New Zealand species belonging to this light green and brown mottled feathers were present in the family (Gill et al. 2010: 264), and it is also the only species borders, along with feathers of other species; käkäpö feathers from this order identified in Te Papa’s cloaks. A feather from were also interspersed throughout brown kiwi feathers in this species was used to record microscopic characteristics for the middle of the cloak, possibily again as a colour lift. the order, which are summarised in Table2. Barbules from feathers of Strigiformes generally have Order Cuculiformes, family Cuculidae – three large globular nodes at the base (Chandler 1916: 375). cuckoos Pigmentation of the nodes is heavy, while the internodal The long-tailed cuckoo (Eudynamys taitensis) and the shining space is slightly transparent. Barbule lengths are 3–4mm bronze-cuckoo (pïpïwharauroa, Chrysococcyx lucidus) are long, and the internodal spaces are large (Day 1966: 215). 144 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011)

Down and nodes vary greatly among species of this large group of birds. Nodes are generally well pigmented, triangular and roughly the same size along the barbule (Chandler 1916: 383). Barbules have flattened transparent growths with knobbed ends or villi (Fig.8e) at the proximal end or from the barbule base (Day 1966:213). Internodal spaces are transparent and exceptionally short. Passeriformes appears to be the only order of New Zealand birds with these distinctive characteristics. Passerine barbules are variable in length, ranging from 1.5mm to 2.5mm in Day (1966: 213), or from 1mm to 5mm in Chandler (1916: 382). The shape of the barbules and length of internodal spaces also vary among family groups. In tüï, the barbules are of medium length. Villi with Fig.13 Close-up of mottled morepork feathers in a kahu distinctive knobbed ends were identified on the base of huruhuru (feather cloak) (Te Papa ME011987). barbules from the base of the barb. Barbules are slightly wider in the middle, and nodes are present all along the barbules. At the barbule base, nodes are large and quadri - Morepork barbs are very soft, long and wispy. At the base lobed, with rudimentary transparent prongs that develop in of the barb, barbules are long and spindly, becoming the top quarter of the barbule. Nodes at mid-barbule are straighter towards the barb tip. They measure 1–2mm in uniform in size and generally heavily pigmented, but with length, with shorter barbules in the middle of the barb little pigment in the internodal spaces except at the tips of (Fig.8a). The barbules at the barb base have five to seven barbules, where nodes are wider, darker and closer together. large triangular nodes at their base that gradually decrease Internodal spaces are short. in size to very thin, widely spaced pigmented nodes at the Hüia barbules are very short, 0.4–1mm long, and wide tips. At the very tips of the barbules, the nodes often have (Fig.8c). Nodes are small and slightly triangular in shape, small transparent prongs. Barbules from the middle and tip and present all along barbules, spaced closely with a slight of the barb have three to four large triangular nodes at their decrease in size towards the tip (Fig.8d). Villi are also present base (Fig.8b), becoming uniform in size and more closely at the base of proximal barbules (Fig.8e). Barbule widths spaced towards the tip. Generally, internodal spaces are gradually decrease along their length. Nodes in hüia feathers greater in the middle of the barbules. Pigmentation is heavy are heavily pigmented, but pigment in internodal spaces is in nodes, but light to medium in the internodal spaces. light to medium. Internodal space is very short. There are Two single mottled brown, cream and white morepork some rudimentary transparent prongs on pigmented nodes belly feathers were identified in a small kahu huruhuru at the base of some barbules, with transparent pronged (Fig.13), with one feather on either side of a vertical pattern nodes at the tips. of bluish-black tüï feathers and dark blue pükeko feathers. Yellowhammer feathers have few villi at the base of bar- The two morepork feathers are light against this dark bules. Nodes are trapezoidal at the base of barbules at the background. barb base, and globular at the middle of barbules, with minute prongs only at the very tip of the barbule. Barbule Order Passeriformes – lengths in the yellowhammer are short, ranging from 0.8mm passerines or perching birds to 1.4mm. There is little to medium pigmentation in the Feathers from at least three species of passerine – two native barbules. Basal quadrilobed nodes are heavily pigmented, and one introduced – have been found in Te Papa cloaks: with rudimentary prongs that are lightly or not pigmented. the tüï (Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae novaeseelandiae), the Internodal spaces are medium to long at the base and mid- extinct hüia (Heteralocha acutirostris) and the introduced barbule, becoming abruptly shorter at the tip. yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella). Summaries for their Iridescent black tüï feathers from the neck, back, breast microscopic feather characteristics are given in Table2. and upperwing coverts were identified in 35 Te Papa cloaks. Identification and description of feathers in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks 145

effective in identifying feather and hair fragments in archaeological material in Alaska (Dove & Peurach 2002), and in identifying Pacific and historical museum collection items in international studies (Dove 1998; Pearlstein 2010). There is potential for successfully replicating the methods used in this study to identify feathers in other significant ethnological collections, including other taonga Mäori (treasures) in collections held in museums both in New Zealand and overseas. DNA analysis has proven useful in identifying the species and sex of kiwi (Shepherd & Lambert 2008; Hartnup et al. 2009), but it is not always possible to extract DNA from degraded or contaminated samples, or from fragile Mäori textiles in a museum collection. Studies of brown kiwi are Fig.14 Close-up of a small bunch of hidden hüia feathers in a particularly relevant to research on the history of Mäori kahu kiwi (kiwi-feather cloak) (Te Papa ME003714). cloaks, owing to the prevalence of kiwi feathers throughout the cloak collection. Analysing the DNA of brown kiwi These feathers were incorporated into borders, strips, feathers in conjunction with the muka fibres from a cloak geometric shapes and small bunches. Each of the two white could possibly retrieve the geographic origin of the materials throat-tuft feathers from a tüï (Fig.2f ), identified from used, and therefore iwi (Mäori tribe) provenance could museum skins, adorned each side border of a cloak. possibly be inferred. The black belly feathers from a hüia were identified in Isotopic analyses of feathers have proven to be an effective two kahu kiwi, hidden among kiwi feathers. In one cloak, tool in tracing the geographical origins of birds (Hobson small bunches of hüia feathers were hidden among those et al. 2007). The stable isotope composition of bird from a brown kiwi across the garment (Fig.14). The other feathers determined by diet and ingested water is a unique kahu kiwi featured single hüia, käkä and New Zealand geograph ical marker of the bird’s origin. Provenance could pigeon feathers hidden among the brown kiwi feathers. The therefore be determined by comparing isotope landscape last confirmed sighting of a live hüia was in 1907 (Heather maps of New Zealand against feathers of known provenance, & Robertson 1996: 419). and then with feathers from cloaks. However, both this Feathers from a yellowhammer, an introduced Eurasian method and DNA analysis require destruction of some of passerine (Gill et al. 2010: 322), were identified in a single the feather material, and results can also be dependent on the kahu huruhuru. Their distinctive canary-yellow breast and degrada tion and viability of the samples used. There is also belly feathers, with central vertical brown lines, were the issue of trade and gifting of cloaks, feathers and birds identified in two small bunches in the middle of a cloak, between iwi and Europeans that can mislead or confuse surrounded by feathers of other species. evidence of origin and ownership of items. It is therefore important that several feather and fibre samples are taken from the cloak, as this increases the likelihood that similar Conclusions and future research samples have originated from the same location, thereby Previously, the bird species from which feathers were used revealing possible geographic origins. This in itself is new in Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks had not been identified with information about the materials used not previously known. precision using scientific methods or analysis, but made The most frequently identified bird species whose visually or somewhat anecdotally, with little scrutiny of feathers feature in Te Papa’s cloaks were once abundant, the methodology or accuracy required. Using a complete widespread, and ground-dwelling or low-flying. They were and well-curated collection of bird skins, such as those at Te used by Mäori for food, and their feathers used for käkahu, Papa, and an accurate microscopic examination of down and other clothing and weaving, personal adornment or for proved to be a cost- and time-effective method of identifying inclusion on weapons and carvings (Best 1942; Orbell cloak feathers. Microscopic analysis has already proven 2003). Particular feather types of certain species were 146 Tuhinga, Number 22 (2011) preferred by weavers, for example the green neck and white Acknowledgements breast feathers of the New Zealand pigeon, and the orange My sincerest gratitude goes to Gillian Stone (Collection underwing and red belly feathers of the käkä. Introduced Manager of Birds and Reptiles, Museum of New Zealand Te birds also played an important role in changing Mäori Papa Tongarewa, Wellington (Te Papa)) and Catherine Tate weaving in recent history. As native bird numbers declined (Natural Environment Technician, Te Papa) for their and their use was restricted by law in the second half of assistance in looking at bird skins and providing feathers for the nineteenth century, the inclusion of feathers from intro- analysis. Many thanks also go to: Raymond Coory (Natural duced birds into Mäori cloak designs not only became Environment Collection Technician, Te Papa), for his assis - essential, but also introduced a whole new range of colours tance with images; Noel Hyde (former taxidermist and and designs. Collection Manager of Birds, Te Papa), who first suggested The identification of feathers in Mäori cloaks in other using microscopic feather identifications and who helped national and international collections warrants further with several feather verifications; Sandy Bartle (former research as it will undoubtedly lead to additional important Curator of Birds, Te Papa), whose support and knowledge findings and, possibly, associations in the location of origins. has been an inspiration; Ricardo Palma (Curator of Insects, One of the most interesting discoveries resulting from Te Papa), for his ongoing support and assistance with bird feather identification of Te Papa’s Mäori cloaks has been the nomenclature; the librarians of Te Aka Matua, particularly uncovering of hidden feathers incorporated into some Martin Lewis; and Brian Gill (Curator of Land Vertebrates, cloaks. At least 30 of the 110 cloaks examined had hidden Auckland War Memorial Museum) and Rangi Te Kanawa feathers or a subtle use of feathers, as well as the inclusion (Conservator Textiles, Te Papa), for their invaluable feedback of other materials (e.g.wool). Presumably, these were on the manuscript. Finally, I thank the two anonymous inserted by the maker as an individual mark or memory of referees for their critique and suggestions, which greatly an event or person and, in some cases, could indicate the improved this paper. Ki öku whänau i Te Papa Tongarewa, identity of the weaver. They may also provide an indication ä nä Ngäpuhi-nui-tonu, kia ora rä koutou mö ö koutou of the status of the wearer, and the time and environment tautoko, ä aroha hoki. Ki ngä kairaranga i ngä wä o mua, ngä in which he or she was living. Documentation about the use mihi ki a rätou mö enei taonga tuku iho. of all feathers (particularly the location of hidden ones) in other national and overseas cloak collections could test this hypothesis and, through the comparison and matching of these unique feather insertions or ‘signatures’, potentially References provide provenance for some cloaks. Best, E. (1942). Forest Lore of the Maori: with methods of snar- The use of bird feathers to create striking coloured ing, trapping, and preserving birds and rats, uses of berries, roots, fern-root and forest products, with mythological notes patterns in Mäori cloaks dating from the last two centuries is on origins, karakia used etc. Dominion Museum Bulletin testimony to the enormous skill, ingenuity and creativity of 14. xi + 503pp. [Also published as Polynesian Society Memoir their weavers. This research highlights the relevance of 18.] scientific identification and verification of materials held in Buller, W.L. (1873). 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