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Historic Homes of the South-West Mountains, Virginia; '-j; ?? Of the «prn) West Virginia University Library This book is due on the date indicated belov 5-B\-ao\0 HISTORIC HOMES OF THE SOUTH-WEST MOUNTAINS VIRGINIA This edition is limited to seven hundred and fifty copies X "^ - \M. 'cff HISTORIC HOMES OF THE S O U T H-W EST MOUNTAINS VIRGINIA BY EDWARD C. MEAD AUTHOR OF " THE GENEALOGICAL HISTORY OF THE LEE FAMILY OF VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND" WITH TWENTY-THREE ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP PHILADELPHIA & LONDON J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 1899 APPAL. RM. FS3^ .ABM- library West Virginia DnlTerslty Copyright, 1898 BY B. LippiNcoTT Company J. IN MEMORY OF THE PAST AND ESTEEM FOR THE PRES- ENT OWNERS OF THESE HISTORIC HOMES, THIS WORK IS INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR PREFACE THE celebrated section of the South-West Mountains, Virginia, stands as pre-emi- nently among her sister sections as does the Old Dominion in the galaxy of stars in the Union as the birthplace of Presidents, governors, and statesmen, as well as the seat of a refined and hospitable people. The list of those who have lived here is a long and honored one. Many names are of such national celebrity that it is felt that any account of those who bore them and of the homes which so reflected their personality will be of more than local interest. My object has been to do for these historic homes what Bishop Meade has already done for the churches of Virginia,—to perpetuate the characteristics of these famous houses along the South-West Mountains, many of which are fast disappearing under the advance of modern archi- tecture, giving a faithful picture of each as they once stood, as well as an anecdotal account and brief genealogy of their inhabitants, thus embalm- ing the traditions of these noble Virginia families. PREFACE To the many who have aided in the collection of the facts and incidents here recorded the writer returns his sincere thanks, trusting that, in handing down these family traditions portraying the simple, pure life of their forefathers, it may stimulate others to emulate their beautiful character, and perpetuate those good " old Virginia" customs, when " Gallant Mirth was wont to sport awhile. And serene old Age looked on with approving smile." "Broad Oak," Near Keswick, Virginia, November, 1898. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION—THE SOUTH-WEST MOUNTAINS . ii Their Traditions ; their People. MONTICELLO—THE HOME OF THOMAS JEFFERSON . 21 Now owned by Hon. Jefferson M. Levy, of New York. PANTOPS—ONE OF JEFFERSON'S FARMS 41 Now owned by Professor John R. Sampson. LEGO—ONE OF JEFFERSON'S FARMS 49 The Home of the Taylors. SHADWELL—THE BIRTHPLACE OF THOMAS JEFFERSON 55 SHADWELL THE SECOND 63 EDGEHILL—THE HOME OF THE RANDOLPHS 65 BELMONT—THE HOME OF THE EVERETTS 75 EAST BELMONT—THE HOME OF ISAAC LONG, ESQ. , 89 SUNNY SIDE—THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF J. B. PACE, ES2 99 FRUITLAND—THE RESIDENCE OF A. P. FOX, ESQ. 107 CISMONT—THE SUMMER HOME OF COLONEL H. W. FULLER Ill CLOVER FIELDS—THE OLD HOME OF THE MERI- WETHERS 129 Now owned by Frank M. Randolph, Esq. CASTALIA—THE ESTATE OF MURRAY BOOCOCK, ESQ. 139 MUSIC HALL—HOME OF THE LATE CAPTAIN JAMES TERRELL 153 BELVOIR—THE HOME OF THE NELSONS 159 KINLOCH—THE HOME OF DR. TOM MERIWETHER . 167 Now owned by Aylett Everett, Esq. 7 CONTENTS PAGE MERRIE MILL—THE COUNTRY-SEAT OF JOHN ARM- STRONG CHANLER, ESg i79 ROUGEMONT—THE HOME OF THE DICKINSONS ... 187 HOPEDALE—THE HOME OF THE BOYDENS 193 CASTLE HILL—THE HOME OF THE RIVESES 201 KESWICK—THE HOME OF THE PAGES 217 EDGEWORTH—THE HOME OF THE GORDONS .... 231 COBHAM PARK—THE RESIDENCE OF THE LATE WIL- LIAM C. RIVES, JR 241 THE MACHUNK FARMS—THE CREEK; CAMPBELLS; MACHUNK 247 BROAD OAK—THE HOME OF EDWARD C. MEAD, ESQ,. 255 KESWICK STATION—CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO RAIL- ROAD 263 EVERETTSVILLE—NOW LA FOURCHE, THE HOME OF THE BOWCOCKS 267 GLENMORE—THE HOME OF THE MAGRUDERS .... 271 1 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Castle Hill Frontispiece Map of the South-West Mountains 1 monticello 21 Pantops 41 Lego 49 Shadwell 55 Edgehill 65 Belmont 75 Sunny Side 99 Cismont Ill The Old Colonial Kitchen at Cismont 126 Clover Fields 129 The First Clover Fields Mansion .... 133 Castalia . 139 Herd of Herefords at Castalia Farm 151 KiNLocH . 167 Merrie Mill Mansion 179 The Old Colonial Merrie Mill i8o The Bathing-Pool at Merrie Mill 183 Hopedale 193 Castle Hill Mansion 204 Keswick 217 Cobham Park 241 Broad Oak 255 ; INTRODUCTION THE SOUTH-WEST MOUNTAINS: THEIR TRADITIONS; THEIR PEOPLE THERE extends through the centre of Al- bemarle County, Virginia, a bold range of picturesque hills, the first that may be deemed mountains, as approaching from the east these have their rise in Orange County, and ter- minate on the borders of James River, ranging in a south-west and north-east course parallel to and distant from the Blue Ridge about twenty miles. This range has been known from an early period as the " South-West Mountains," so called from the direction in which they point. The early history of Albemarle County, dating from its formation in 1744, is one of peculiar interest. Even before that period its mountains, valleys, and rivers had been explored by a venture- some people, among whom were such pioneers as Peter Jefferson, Robert Walker, William Ran- dolph, Nicholas Meriwether, and Robert Lewis, who, upon reaching the colony, turned their foot- steps from the already thickly settled eastern coun- ties and sought the region of the wild " Apalata Mountains" of the west, to which the Indians pointed them ; when, however, they reached this : HISTORIC HOMES OF THE first range of blue hills, towering in solemn grandeur above the surrounding plain, they were so struck with their beauty and fertility that here they rested, and forever since their descendants have held this favored spot of Virginia by right of the king's patent. Beginning at Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson, where the waters of the Rivanna, or "Riveranna," as then called, break through the little chain of mountains on their way to the James, and at short distances of a mile or less apart, scattered along the spurs and ridges of these mountain slopes, or nestled in valleys beside shady springs and rivulets, were the first settlements made. For some time the South-West Mountains formed the western limit of the colony, but when its dark-red alluvial soil was found to be particu- larly adapted to the culture of the great staple, tobacco, and its salubrious climate so refreshing to the fever-stricken emigrants, these favored hills were eagerly sought, and the county was early set- tled by a most intelligent and industrious race of people, who were peculiarly different in dialect, traits of character, and social intercourse from the general class of early settlers in America. The following graphic description by Governor James Barbour, of Orange County, as taken from the Farmers' Register of 1835, gives an accurate idea of this celebrated range " This unique region of the South-West Moun- tains stretches from the Rappahannock to the James River. I have heard, indeed, of claims to a con- — SOUTH-WEST MOUNTAINS tinuance of this peculiar soil as reaching farther both to the north and south. I can only say, as far as my observation has extended, these claims are not sustained. Its length may, therefore, be given at one hundred and ten miles, its average breadth five miles, containing three hundred and twenty thousand acres ; its latitude in 37°-38° north. Of this tract of land, one-half at least in its virgin state was very fertile, a fourth suffi- ciently so to yield a fair return to labor, the other fourth sterile and rocky, but covered with fine timber, particularly the chestnut, whose duration in rails may be fixed at sixty or seventy years. " The advantages of this region are many, and some of them peculiar. It presents the singular fact that the mountain is fertile to the summit, one thousand feet being the highest point (Peter's), —and much more so than the country at its base. It is more abundantly watered than any I have ever seen ; springs of cool living water are to be found in every dell ; and on my own estate I have a copious and lasting spring near the top of the mountain, at an elevation of six hundred feet at least. Its vegetation is fourteen to twenty days in advance of the level conterminous country, and still it is usually exempt from the late frosts, while the fi-uit in the level country is destroyed by them. " Mr. Jefferson told us the frost of May 4, 1774, while destroying even the forest-trees at the sum- mit and at the foot of the mountain, left a zone of considerable breadth midway the mountain, 13 HISTORIC HOMES OF THE where even the fruit escaped. The elevations on its western side present the most beautiful sites for building, furnishing, as they do to a great extent, a prospect of the Blue Ridge, distant twenty-five miles, and the intermediate country between ; above all, we may fairly claim that no spot on earth is more healthy. Let us, the inhabitants of the South -West Mountains, rejoice and be grateful that our benefits greatly preponderate over our ills. And so far as my testimony goes, resulting from actual observation of near one-third of the entire circumference of the earth, I feel no hesitation in declaring that I deem them the most desirable abode I have ever seen." In the above account a slight error is made in the altitude of Peter's Mountain (named in honor of Peter Jefferson, the father of the President), which stands nearly at the north-east terminus of i the range, and forms its highest point.
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