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. . . CONSULT THE VJ(JTORIAN G01TERNMENT TOURIST BUREAU 272 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE 'PHONE F.0404 WALK THE JOURNAL OF THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS No.2 1951 CONTENTS

EDITORIAL ...... • ...... 3 FUJISAN ...... G. McKinnon . . 4 ROAMING AROUND THE GORGES N. Richards . . . . 8 THE ROCKING STONE SADDLE .. ]. Smith ...... ll "THE BUSHWALKERS" ...... Anon ...... 12 SOME NOTES ON AN OLD SONG . . . . F. Pitt ...... 13 CHARLES LESLIE GREENHILL - OBIT...... 15 BUSHWALKING IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND ...... G. Bruere .. 17 THE MENAGERIE LION ...... 21 A PLEA FOR POSTERITY ...... G. Coutts . . . . 24 ON THE ART OF PHOTOGRAPHY . . . . G. Schwerin . . . . 26 SKIPPY ON THE SKYLINE ...... E. Richards . . . . 27 DO YOU KNOW YOUR EUCALYPTS? . . G. Christensen .. 31 THE FEDERATION RANGE - MT. TOR- BRECK ...... W. Olle ...... 34 NEVER AGAIN!!! ...... H. Williams .... 37 MT. COOK AND ITS GLACIERS . . . . P. Lederer . . . . 38 MOUNTAIN MUSTER ...... 43 THE PYRENEES ...... F. Sautter 45 THE WALKER'S BURDEN ...... "O.M." .. .. 47 BLACKBERRIES ...... W. Baxter .. 50 SOME NEW MAP ISSUES ...... 51 WALKS SECTION: BENAMBRA-THE COBBERAS-MT. KOSCIUSKO .. 53 MT. WILLS - THE LONG SPUR - MT BOGONG . . . . 60 TOOROURONG RESVR. - JACK'S CASCADES . . . . 63

Front Cover by E. H. MARCUSE.

CLYDE PRESS, 608 High St., Thornbury, Vic. 1W 2902 1 The MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS

OFFICE-BEARERS, 1950-51.

PRESIDENT: Norman E. Richards.

VICE PRESIDENTS: Egon. Donath Fay Pitt

HON. TREASURER: HON. SECRETARY: Emil Slade Frank Pitt

WALKS SECRETARY: SOCIAL SECRETARY: Gordon Coutts Marie Gillespie

GENERAL COMMITTEE: Margaret Dark Lorraine Ritchie Gerda Schwerin Bill Horton Warren Olle Fred Sautter

SUB-COMMITTEES: WALKS: Gordon Coutts, Warren Olle, Gerda Schwerin. SOCIAL: Marie Gillespie, Margaret Dark, Lorraine Ritchie. NEWS: Fay Pitt, Gordon Coutts, Margaret Dark. EDITORIAL: Norm. Richards, Egon Donath, Fred. Soutter. EQUIPMENT OFFICER: Don Smellie. LIBRARIAN: Bill Horton, THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS CLUBROOM: Room 110, Victorian Railways Institute, Railway Buildings, Flinders St., Melbourne, C. I.

ADVERTISING MANAGER: E. J. Donath, 166 Wellington Parade, East Melbourne, C.2. Tel.: F0484. EDITOR: Norman Richards.

"Dedicated to all who appreciate the great outdoors."

"Dedicated to all who appreciate the great outdoors . . . WALK is a voluntary non-profit venture published in the interests of bushwalking as a pastime and healthy recreation" 2 Walking is an enjoyable pastime. Come rain, hail or shine the enthusiasts are abroad at every opportunity that they may get their fill of its pleasures. An intangible attraction weaves a spell about them and off they go-walking for its very own sake!

This is, as it were, the spiritual side; the satisfying of an inner unspoken urge. There are other angles which may be equally satisfying, and to cultivate them cannot but enhance the pleasure and profit to be derived from each trip. The physical well-being engendered by days and nights spent in the open, healthy exercise creating an even healthier appetite; the aesthetic pleasure to be derived from a distant view; or the satisfaction of achieving something beyond the powers of the multitude; all these give savor to the walk, but they are all things in which the intellect plays no part. To some walkers they are sufficient, yet there are many who crave some intellectual benefit from their walking.

It is not suggested that during a walk is the best time to depth the oceans of philosophy or attempt to solve the riddle of the universe, but there is ample scope to increase one's knowledge and understanding of natural history. Botany and geology are two subjects which more than repay any effort made to understand them. In their case the objects of study are static and do not demand much time and energy, the major drawbacks to such interests as bird-observing on walks. The barest rudiments of physiography enable us much better to understand and appreciate the topography of the country through which we walk, and allow us to choose our routes so that we may achieve our objectives. These are all things with which to occupy the mind while on the track. To be interested in any of them will be to add much to our enjoyment, perhaps give an edge which may have been missing.

And may we finish with a plea?

A plea to devote some of your thinking moments along the track to achieving a balanced, long-range view of the contemporary scene as it affects us as walkers. We are all interested in the general ideas of Conservation; that posterity may not suffer because of contemporary actions. Let us be sure that our cause is not under­ mined by ill-considered and illogical schemes, and that our arguments are always consistent. We cannot fly in the face of progress, and we must expect that some development schemes will impinge on the country which we delight in knowing as it now is. Be on guard that progress is not an excuse for despoilation, but if we wish our case to be heard we must make our appeal to reason. The cause is worth a little thought; tranquil hours along the track or by the campfire present the opportunity for it.

3 FUJI SA~

An Australian's Japanese Walk

Mt. Fuji-altitude 12,467 feet-is THE sacred mountain of Japan, the climb­ ing of which attracts more than 45,000 people annually-men and women, young and old-from all parts of Japan. To the Japanese people the climbing of Fuji is not a mere pleasure, but a pilgrimage. The climbing season of the mountain lasts through July and August (Japan­ ese summer), and so one fine August a friend and I decided that we too would make a pilgrimage to Mt. Fuji. Being members of the Australian Occupation Force, it was not just a case of kitting-up and off we go; one had to apply and fill in forms stating reasons for wanting to go, swear we would not stay at Japanese hotels, eat Japanese food or drink, or leer at Japanese wenches, etc., etc. After lying like gentlemen, the forms were duly completed and despatched to Tokyo for approval. Finally, the day arrived and our clearances were granted. The first step was a 500-mile train journey from Kure to Tokyo, completed in approximately 12 hours; an uneventful but quite comfortable trip. The Japanese railway system is patterned after the German system and seems to run quite efficiently. On arrival in Tokyo at 7 a.m. we had breakfast at the Marou­ nichi Hotel, and afterwards changed into our walking gear. The distance from Tokyo to the starting point of the Fuji track at Yoshida Guchi is approximately I 00 miles. We had previously arranged for the loan of a jeep to cover this distance, and so at 9 a.m. we left Tokyo for Yoshida. This journey proved a scenic delight, an excellent road (most unusual in Japan), which wound through majestic mountains in the Hakone district, giving wonderful views of the 6 lakes which practically surround the base of Fuji (L. Motosu, L. Shoji, L. Saiko, L. Kawaguchi, L. Yamanaka, L. Hakone-especially famous for its reflection of Mt. Fuji). These lakes are comparatively large, and the whole area comprises the Fuji-Hakone National Park. We arrived at Yoshida at 1 p.m. This town exists purely on the tourist and pilgrim traffic passing through the area, and as this was the height of the pilgrim season, the town was gaily decorated and very crowded. The money-making instinct is very finely developed in Japanese religions, and the poor pilgrims were certainly made to pay for the charms and souvenirs that are considered a "must have." Before starting on the track, one necessity is the pilgrim's staff, 4 ft. 6 in. 200 yen, and it is the most important "must have," because at each of the 10 stations or weather huts along the track the staff is branded with a hot iron, denot­ ing the number of the hut. At the summit (No. 10) it is branded in red and blessed by a priest. For this pious act they charge 30 yen at each hut, but at least it's one of the proofs that one has reached the summit. After parking the jeep at the police station (and carefully measuring the petrol tank), staff in hand we set out along the track. The first live miles from Yoshida to Umagaeshi (No. 1 hut) was quite an easy grade; a good wide track winding through thick woods. The weather was hot and humid, but clear. From Umagaeshi one starts to really climb, and it is a steep grade all the way to the summit. The weather huts are stationed at varying distances, ranging from half a mile to one and a half miles, getting closer together as one nears the summit (Fuji is quite a treacherous mountain in regard to its weather changes). At each 4 hut one can purchase tea (green). Normally I dislike it intensely, but the extreme humidity of the Japanese summer, plus the climbing, made it taste like nectar of the gods. There is no water along the track, and eyen if there were, one does not drink from Japanese streams; their ideas of hygiene are peculiar, to say the least.

From Umagaeshi to the fifth station (altitude 7,342 ft.) is approximately four and a half miles. The going had been solid, but up to this point the track was quite good. We had not been able to see anything much from a scenic point of view, as there is thick scrub all the way from Umagaeshi. After leaving No. 5 hut the vegetation ended very abruptly, and we entered the lava area (Fuji has not erupted for nearly two centuries, yet from No. 5 station to the summit there is no vegetation at all). This formed quite a startling contrast to the thick scrub and wood we had previously encountered. The track now became very rough,

FUJIYAMA G. McKinnon.

and the loose lava did not make for easy walking. One sank down past one's ankles in it, and as the grade was becoming very steep one also slid backwards at nearly every step. The staff became quite helpful from this stage onwards. My friend, who was definitely of the "pansy hiker" class, started to mutter in his beard. We had enountered a number of Japanese returning from the summit, with shining eyes and beaming smiles; they were very happy with life. They bowed and hissed in the polite Japanese manner. It was no trouble for us to return the compliment, as with our packs and the steep grade we were more or less per­ manently bowing and hissing. We also encountered two Americans returning, stopped and had a yarn with them. They both looked like "death warmed up," and cheered us with remarks that "No, Sir! they hadn't reached the top; that they had petered out at 10,000 ft., and it sure was quite a climb, guy." After leaving No. 5 we obtained good views of the surrounding country and of the lakes sur­ rounding Fuji. We stopped quite frequently to admire the view.

It became pitch dark as we continued on, and we could see the torches and lamps of the pilgrims in a long line ahead like "will o' the wisp" lights moving up the mountain, and the chanting of the different groups floated ba:k to us, rather eerie, but somehow very pleasing. The grade was now very steep and in the extra 5 bad places wire had been fitted into stakes in the ground, and one had to haul oneself up. Most of the Japanese climb during the late afternoon and night to escape the heat (Japanese summer is very humid) and also to reach the summit just prior to sunrise.

We were both finding the going pretty solid; my friend, who was having a private hate session about forty yards back, was talking to himself. In the rari­ fied atmosphere voices carry and I could distinctly hear such remarks as "having his head read for teaming-up with one of the crazy walking blokes, and what was he doing up here in the pitch darkness when he could be back in the mess drink­ ing cold beer and eating oyster patties?" This appealed very much to my peculiar sense of humour, and to quote the Japanese, "it kept me very laughint," which made climbing worse.

We reached No. 8 hut at 11.30 p.m. There were about 100 Japanese sleep­ ing on the floor, and we decided we would also bed down until 3 a.m., and then move on so as to be at the summit just prior to dawn, which would be approxi­ mately 5 a.m. At 3 a.m. we were awakened by the hut keeper. It was bitterly cold and bright moonlight. One could see the summit of Fuji as a black outline that appeared to be towering straight above one's head. My friend had one look, then another, then said he had "had it," plus some very rude remarks regarding Fujisan. We arranged to meet at Umagaeshi the following day, and he returned to the hut. Continuing, I reached No. 11 hut (approx. 11,000 ft.) and had a cup of tea. The last 1,400 feet was the steepest of the lot. The track was cut in a tremendous zig-zag manner to enable even a rough, walkable grade. The rarified atmosphere soon made one very breathless, and I found I had to stop and admire the view approximately every 100 feet. I passed quite a number of Japanese who were lying on the track exhausted. One small party intrigued me - two men and a girl, one man leading had a rope looped around the girl's waist and was pulling her along; the other man at the back of her was pushing. She was absolutely out on her feet, and seemed to be walking in a trance; it was obvious she had to make the top even if it killed her. I have not known of any Japanese who has not completed the climb, and feel sure that if they were unable to they would com­ mit "hari kari." The last couple of hundred feet I just put my head down and kept going. Suddenly a "tori" (sacred entrance gate to a Japanese shrine) loomed up in front of me, and I knew I was on top.

My first action was to make for the Sengen Shrine, where priests were brand­ ing the staffs (50 yen here) and handing out pieces of ribbon with Japanese writing stating you had reached the summit. They also had long rods which they waved above the pilgrims' heads as a kind of blessing. I joined up with the mob and received the same treatment. By this time it was nearly dawn. There were several hundred Japanese wandering around with out-of-this-world expressions on their faces. I came in for plenty of bowing and hissing now. Choosing a vantage point I sat down and had a look around. It was quite clear on the summit, but down below about the 7,000 ft. mark there were fleecy white clouds with gaps in them through which showed the tops of the smaller mountains. Through other gaps one could see the lakes, looking like small pools of water. Then from the eastern horizon came the first rays of the sun. . . . It started to tint the clouds and in a few moments they had changed from white to pure gold. It was the most beautiful sight I have ever seen, and I appreciated why the Japanese extol the beauties of the sunrise from Fuji, and those first few minutes of the sunrise more than amply repaid for the climb.

6 I spent an hour just gazing, then decided to have a walk around. There are several huts on top and the Sengen Shrine, and in the climbing season a post office is kept open near the shrine. I had some letters to post for the gang back at Kure, and had them cancelled with the special Fuji date stamp. The crater is about two miles in circumference and it takes about an hour to encircle it. I was thus able to obtain a progressive 360 degree view of the area. The crater itself is about 600 feet deep and in many places is a sheer drop. Quite frequently after seeing the sunrise Japanese commit suicide by jumping into it (there was no Roman holiday that day, though). By about 8.30 I had covered the summit area and decided I would return. With ribbon pinned on chest and staff in hand, plus the downgrade, it was very easy to appear nonchalant as one strode down the track past the struggling, breathless people making their way upwards. The bows were much lower now. I had just passed No. 9 station when a thick mist rolled up from below and in a couple of minutes one could only see a couple of yards ahead. In a short while I had a feeling I had strayed off the track. Suddenly I could hear the tinkle of bells corning close and out of the mist carne six figures. They were in single file and were wearing the white robes and white tabi (socks) of the pilgrim. They were roped together and each one had a small bell around the neck. The leader was a wizened old lady, the rest men about fifty. They looked most eerie corning suddenly out of the mist, and I thought for a moment my sins had found me out and they had come for me, but they passed without a word. The mist cleared shortly after and I saw the track about 20 yards away. Looking back at the pilgrims I noticed they were not bothering about the track, but were going straight up and walking as though it were quite an easy grade. When I though of my struggle up the track I felt I was just a big sissy. At No. 8 hut I noticed the crowd moving off to the left of the track and decided to fol­ low. About 200 yards away I carne upon a sharp descent comprised of fine, loose lava; this was apparently the main lava flow when Fuji was active. It offered a quick descent, and the Japanese crowd went crazy, shouting and running like mad downhill, falling over and getting dozens of cuts and scratches. I followed at a more moderate pace. One sank to the knees in the lava, but it did not take long to get to No. 5 station and on to the track again. The return trip to Urna­ gaeshi and thence to Yoshida was uneventful. The staff and ribbon caused much chattering among the Japanese.

We picked up the jeep and returned to Tokyo. We only had time to shower and change, as we had to catch the train that night for Kure. To climb Fuji we had travelled 1,200 miles in a long week-end, but I consider it was well worth it. There is a Japanese saying that to have the chance of climbing Fuji and not to do so one is crazy, and to climb it a second time one is also crazy. I think it was just as well I returned home before the next climbing season.

-George McKinnon.

7 'Roaming cAround the Qorges Werribee, Lerderderg and Pyrett's Creek

Most of us have our outlook on gorges colored by American pictures of the Grand Canyon, with its mile-high cliffs and varicolored strata, but although on a much smaller scale, the gorges of the Werribee and Lerderderg Rivers and Pyrett's Creek are full of interest. The area is geologically noteworthy, especially the Wer-. ribee Gorge, but as my knowledge of geology is less than rudimentary, it is as delightful walking country that I have been attracted there. The surrounding country is high and you go down into the valleys to do your walking, a change to the more normal procedure of walking up the valleys to get at your mountain. The Werribee Gorge is well known to thousands who have travelled there on geological excursions, as well as to many motorists who take time to detour to it from the Ballarat road. Although the most gorge-like of the local gorges, it is only short and does not provide as good a walking trip as do either of the others. The Lerderderg Gorge, commencing at the ford at Darley, just outside Bacchus Marsh, goes upstream for many miles to the hills south of Daylesford. For the most part flanked by steeply-sloping hills, there are many bends of the river where frowning cliffs overhang the course of the stream; and all the way there is an attractive forest of the smaller eucalypts. Usually a series of delightful rocky pools with a slow flow between them, after rain the river rises rapidly and forces many a climb over a high bluff. On these detours some of the many shafts and tunnels left by gold prospectors will be seen. "Look before you leap" is a good rule around here, as there is no saying when you might be leaping down a fifty­ foot shaft. Along the river there are also many old earthen water races built by prospectors to wash their "dirt." Loafing along on a sunny afternoon with the stream never more than a few feet away, and wading through it at the numerous fordings, there comes a real air of detachment. Here the wind hardly penetrates, but blows over the tops, and it is often warm below though chill winter is abroad. Camp by one of the many large pools is an experience in serenity under such circumstances. With plenty of firewood, water a few feet from the door of the tent, and maybe the firelight and stars glinting on the still surface of the pool, it is not surprising that bed does not call with the insistent voice it often assumes when walking. It is very easy to yarn the midnight hour away in a Lerderderg camp, undisturbed by thoughts of the morrow. Climb with us up the steep hillside to the Bear's Head Range. The grade is steep and the six-hundred foot climb provides a solid half-hour's exertion; but each look back at the turning reaches of the stream below spurs one on to a higher view. In places the hillside has a loose powdery surface which now and then adds thrill to the ascent as a seemingly immovable block of stone gently gets under way downhill at the touch of your boot, the dry powdery earth turning aside for it. But they usually don't go far before finding a resting-place against another rock or stump. Sometimes your foot sinks in the earth, and off you slide wondering whether to glissade down to firmer ground or to wait until the move­ ment stops. Once atop any spur around here it is almost certain that there will be an old pad leading out to the flat country beyond, so thoroughly have these hills been 8 covered by prospectors. These pads converge rapidly on the open farming country. Here the change from dry timber-clad spurs to a smooth green carpet of grass comes almost as a shock, so sudden and striking is the contrast. And of course, no trip to this side of the Lerderderg is complete without a visit to the top of Mt. Blackwood, once a landmark for its crown of trees; now unfortunately being harvested to feed the hungry mills.

The three gorges lie roughly on lines radiating from Bacchus Marsh. To give some idea of the topography, reading from left to right (i.e., from west to east) the system is Werribee Gorge, Ballarat Road, Lerderderg Gorge, Bacchus Marsh-Gisborne Road, and Pyrett's Creek; with the farming country along the Calder Highway forming an eastern boundary. Strips of farming country along the roads isolate each gorge from its fellows. Until a couple of years ago I had not been east of Mt. Bullengarook. A well-known viewpoint adjacent to the Bacchus Marsh-Gisborne road, the Mount had been visited on a trip from the Lerderderg some time before, and the views across Pyrett's Creek had been the cause of a mental note to make a closer inspection as soon as possible.

Accordingly, next winter we once again visited Mt. Bullengarook, this time to head westward into the Pyrett's Creek, following the stream down until it once again paralleled the road near Coimadai. In summer the tributary streams are mostly dry, or at best marked by a few waterholes; but in winter they all flow merrily on their way to join the main creek. From a distance the impression gained is that the region is a small replica of the Lerderberg area, but closer acquaintance shows its individuality Somehow it seems more friendly, the slopes are not so bare and dry, and the streams here and there open out into small, pleasant grassy flats. Especially along the upper reaches of Pyrett's Creek itself are there some quite extensive green flat areas.

A frosty week-end was experienced for the trip. First omen was the tinkling sound heard about 9 p.m., when removing a spoon from a billy of water a few 9 feet from the fire-not another spoon in the billy, but a layer of ice! Next day we came upon a large shaded pool about 2 p.m., which still had a complete sheet of ice on the surface. After freeing the edges it could be floated back and forth. Despite the cold night, the days were sunny and the trip was most enjoyable. In fact, so enjoyable that last winter it was decided to repeat the dose, this time travelling from the Calder Highway to Mt. Gisborne, then through the timbered country to Pyrett's Creek for camp. Once more, this camp impressed on us that serenity is the keynote of the gorge country-a grassy flat in the bend of the stream, where the water did not How on the surface, but moved freely from pool to pool through the shingly bed between, ever filtering the water crystal clear; utter still­ ness, and all light except that of the stars excluded by the walls of the valley.

LERDERDERG GORGE K. Grant.

On this trip our way led up a long winding spur to The Sugarloaf, a small "peak" when viewed from the Hats around the Calder Highway, but quite a respectable climb from the level of our camp. Situated right in the centre of the broken spurs of the gorges, the Sugarloaf provides fine views to all points of the compass. Mts. Blackwood, Gisborne and Bullengarook serve as markers by which to trace the courses· of the main streams, and farther away the You Yangs, The Anakies, and the Brisbane Ranges show to advantage, with Mt. Macedon to the north-east dominating the scene. The only enemy to be coped with hereabouts is the scrub, which although never very thick, is extremely prickly in places. The dry, steep spurs lend themselves admirably to the growth of this type of shrub.

(Concluded on page 35) 10 The Rocking Stone Saddle

A Story of Innocents A broad

We had reached the Rocking Stone Saddle without mutiny. The trip across from Rocky Valley had not been without its lighter moments. To start with, two miles out, on an unexplored section-!-mile from a snow­ pole line-Harry Duke, the bright boy of the party, had his first blister. He soon became the first straggler and arrived at Batty's Hut, well after the rest . . . . in his bare feet! All went reasonably well until we left Roper's. Here the mob seemed to become divided; one half finally reaching the Big River after following "Uncle Alf," their self-appointed leader, off the track and down a creek leading off Duane's Spur. The party later being reunited at the old survey camp, the climb to the Cleve Cole Memorial Hut was commenced in the cool of the evening Yes, in pouring rain.

THE ROCKING STONE Rocking Stone Saddle, Mt. Bogong. T. St. Elmo.

Shortly after passing Tee Spur Nob ''Dukesy" gave out. His whole six feet two inches fell prostrate to the ground. No rum being offered, he remounted his legs and doggedly followed. Our playboy, Gerald was first to the hut; but from then on was uncommuni­ cative. The sulks had set in when he found only males in the hut. It seems that Jerry had been informed that members of the Women's Walking Club would be visiting Bogong that week-end! As I said before, we reached the Rocking Stone Saddle. Toni carne out with 11 one of his posers and asked the reason for the Saddle being so named. The brains trust got busy, but were clueless. He thereupon led us to a rock a short distance from the snowpole line. Within this rock rested a stone, the rocking stone from which the saddle derived its name. It appears that the stone was formerly known as the Emu Egg Stone and the Saddle as the Emu Egg Saddle, probably a more appropriate name. For those interested and who may be passing this way a picture of the stone is shown in the above illustration. I can hear a curious soul asking how "Dukesy" got on. Well, he just about didn't. He reached the Mountain Creek Road at the foot of the Staircase when the stars were shining, and if the S.O.S. sent to a local Hire Car driver had not been answered promptly he probably would have been still there. -Jack Smith.

"THE BUSHWALKERS"

We climb the rugged timbered hills, Then down deep gullies cool, And on thro' ferns and stately gums, To rest by woodland pools.

And whilst relaxed on grassy banks. With faces to the sky, We trace the fairy patterns weird, In white clouds drifting by.

Our eyelids close to lullabies, A drowsy drone of bees, Mixed with fragrant bushland scent, And whisp'rings in the trees.

The echoes float along the breeze, Of myriad wild bird calls, Whilst close at hand flows a tinkling stream, With its murmuring waterfalls

Awake at last to eat a snack, Just lounging on the ground, The meal tastes quite three times as nice, With nature's gang around.

Then homeward up the steepest rise, We bid the scene adieu, Returning soon to explore beyond, Where the green blends into blue. -Anon.

12 Some Notes on an Old Song

Among the songs sung by the Melbourne Bushwalkers and, I dare say, by many other Walking Clubs, is "Green Grow The Rushes, 0!" This song is a favourite, and continues to intrigue all those who hear it for the first time, although, with the modern tendency to impatience with the simpler forms of entertainment and song, it is very rarely sung in its complete form. It is one of those songs loved by the peasant folk of all nations, in which a short, simple verse is sung, then the second verse is sung with the first repeated, then the third with the second and first, and so on. Well-known, but inferior examples of this type are "One Man Went to Mow" and "Ten Green Bottles." These songs are known as Cumulative Songs or Number Songs. Evidence of their antiquity is shown in the fact that they are usually sung with ten verses (possibly countea on the fingers), twelve verses (a common counting quantity) or thirteen verses (the ancient calendars showed thirteen lunar months in a year). The form sung by the Melbourne Bushwalkers is as follows:­ I'll sing you one, Of Green grow the rushes, Of What is your one, 0? One is one; and all alone, and ever more shall be so.

I'll sing you two, Of Green grow the rushes, Of What is your two, 0? Two, two, the lilywhite boys, clothed all in green, 0, One is one, and all alone, and ever more shall be so. and so on, until the twelve verses are repeated: Twelve for the twelve disciples, Eleven for the eleven went up to heaven, Ten for the ten commandmnts, Nine for the nine bright shiners, Eight for the April rainers, Seven for the seven stars in the sky, Six for the six proud walkers, Five for the symbols at your door, Four for the Gospel makers, Three, three, the rivals, Two, two, the lilywhite boys, clothed all in green, 0, One is one, and all alone, and ever more shall be so.

Now this is obviously of religious origin, and was possibly a popular expression in easily remembered verse form of the basic principles of the Christian faith. The form given possibly dates back to the time of the introduction of Christianity into Europe. There are almost identical songs to be heard in Germany, Flanders, France, Brittany, Moravia and England. The form of the Folksong may have been suggested by the ancient Hebrew song, used in the Service for the First Night of the Passover, which runs: Who wants to know one? I'll tell you one. 13 until the final verse runs:

Thirteen Divine Attributes, Twelve tribes of Israel, Eleven stars, Ten Commandments, Nine months preceding childbirth, Eight days preceding circumcision, Seven days in the week, Six books of the Mishnah, Five books of the Law, Four matrons, Three patriarchs, Two tables of the Covenant, One God, the Father of all. The present song, traces of which may still be found in English folk-song, although very much corrupted, is also known as the "Twelve Apostles," the "Ten Commandments" and the "Dilly Song" (Welsh, dillyn equals pretty, gay). The "Dilly Song," like many popular folksongs, rhymes well; for example, six - crucifix, seven - heaven, eight - daybreak. Most of the corruptions, as in all folksongs, have occurred because the songs were passed on by word of mouth, and, being improperly heard or imperfectly comprehended, were rendered in an approximate form by the next singer. Some of these corruptions are easily seen in the variants when the lines of the version quoted above are compared with other versions of the same song. The name of the song is worth comment: green is a favourite colour for ballads, as is seen in "Greensleeves," "Broom, Green Broom," and "Ten Green Bottles." Ghosts are often green. Rushes also figure frequently in ballads and folk-stories. An explanation of the words of this song is as follows:-

I. God the Father. Some versions run, "God is one, and all alone," but all are in agreement. 2. The lilywhite boys may be Christ and John the Baptist, although a Somerset version runs "lilywhite babes," which may refer to the twins Gemini, symbol of springtime and fertility. The "Dilly Song" suggests it refers to God's Son's two natures. 3. "Rivals" is a corruption of "thritlings" or "thirdings," the Trinity. It is also suggested by the Somerset version, "thrivers." The Dilly Song "Strangers o'er the whole world they are rangers." 4. The four Evangelists (also Gospel Preachers). 5. There is great confusion over the next few verses. One Cornish version of this line is "symbols at your call," and another is "the Ferrymen in the boat, and one of them a stranger." The "Dilly Song" gives "the Dillybird, that's never seen but heard, 0," and the Somerset and some old American versions give "the flamboys under the boat,'' "boys upon the pole,'' "thimble over the ball,'' "plum boys at the bowl," "plum boys at the brow." It is suggested that the "symbols" may refer to the symbols on the door at the time of the Passover, and that the "ferrymen" may be the four wounds in Jesus' hands and feet, and the "stranger" the wound in his side, 14 6. Also "broad waiters," "the cheerful waiter," "the Cherubim watchers," "the cherrybird waiters." It is generally agreed that the correct word is "water" and that it refers to the six pots of water which Jesus turned into wine at Cana.

7. The "Dilly Song" reads "seven is the Crown of Heaven" (the Pleiades), but it may also refer to the stars in the Great Bear constellation.

8. Also "archangels," "bold rainers," "great archangel," "daybreak," "eight commanders," "Gabriel angels," "Gibley angels," "angel givers." No explanation is given.

9. "The bold rainers," "the bright shiners," "the nine delights" (the Joys of Mary). Again the corruption obscures the origin and meaning, but it is suggested that it refers to the nine months from the Annunciation to the Nativity.

There is no doubt about the last three verses, and all versions agree, though sometimes using different words. The eleven are the twelve apostles without Judas Iscariot.

My intention in giving these comments and quoting the variants of this song is to draw the attention of those who sing it to its antiquity and meaning. It is not expected that these interpretations will be accepted entirely without comment or disagreement, but if any greater interest in the song and desire to sing it more willingly and meaningfully is aroused, I am very pleased. -Frank Pitt.

THE END OF THE TRACK Charles Leslie Greenhill, Esq.

During the year the Club suffered a severe loss in the death of Mr. Chas. Greenhill. One of our oldest members, he had endeared himself to all who walked with him by his never-failing cheerfulness, no matter how trying the trip or inclement the weather. His cinemato graphic records enabled many of us once again to live through the joys and pleasures of the track. A Past-President of the Amateur Cine Society, his colour films were worthy of any audience, and, through them, he made the Club known to many walkers in other parts of the world.

15 s l ~b ~ 11Rnu LIMITED

BAKERS OF THE BEST BISCUITS S/9620

16 Bushwalking~ in Australia and New Zealand A Kiwi Comes to Australia

To make a correct comparison of the bush country and bushcraft of two countries is difficult, and one is probably making an ass of himself by trying. However, at the command of our Editor, I shall attempt to make a comparison based solely on personal experience. Also, since each country has such a wide range of bush and mountain, much of which I have not visited, this article will have to be restricted, in Australia, to the Eastern Highlands and Tasmania.

W AIOU VALLEY - SPENSER ALPS Canterbury Province. K. Lorking.

A New Zealand tramper may at first feel that the Australian high country lacks some of the grandeur of the New Zealand alpine areas. However, if he is a true hill-man he will be strongly attracted to the rugged bush and mountain country on this side of the Tasman. Probably his finest experience will be the first time he walks through a gum forest on a fine day. One thing is certain, whether he be in the beech forests or among the eucalypts, he will find his companions show the same friendship and good humour, and have the same unscrupulous habits common to all hill-men!

17 The high country in New Zealand is varied to a great degree, and one can plan almost any hill holiday, from sun-bathing beside a lake to hazardous high climbing requiring expert knowledge of ice and snow conditions. In the North Island there are few peaks of great height; most of the high country is in the form of narrow steep-sided valleys containing swift rivers abounding in bluffs, gorges and water-falls; precipitous bush-clad ridges and spurs with snow-grass clad tops rising to between five and six thousand feet above sea level. Snow lies on these exposed tops only during winter. The bush mantle is sub-tropical rain forest, which is mainly beech (Nothofagus) with a forest Roor of ferns and other under­ growth. The great glaciated chain of the Southern Alps in the South Island rises to 12,349 feet at their highest point. They are backed on the east and west by miles of rugged foothills which are carved-up by large, swift-Rowing rivers fed from the snowfields of the Main Divide. The western side of the Southern Alps has a very high rainfall and is covered by heavy sub-tropical rain forest, similar to that in the North Island, while the eastern foothills are clad with lighter, sub-antarctic rain forest. The West Coast rivers fall steeply through gorges and in the form of cascades and waterfalls. (They have been likened to "sewers" by some wet, disillusioned trampers, who shall be nameless.) On the eastern side of the Divide the rivers Row in channels over wide, boulder-strewn river beds which at least do not fall as steeply as the "sewers," and a tramper's lot is made easier by a much lighter rainfall. There are large, deep lakes in the Southern Fiordland which were formed in old glacier beds as the glaciers receded in times past. This country is characterised by large U-shaped glacial valleys, with hanging valleys and hanging glaciers, and extensive high snowfields. The wet westerly winds strike the Southern Alps, precipitate their moisture and blow across the eastern plains as hot, dry winds. This heavy precipitation is the reason the Southern Alps are so heavily glaciated, and why the higher peaks, although thousands of feet lower, are more heavily iced than the European Alps. In the Milford Sound region, peaks as low as 7,000 feet may have permanent ice caps, and the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers sweep down to only a few hundred feet above sea-level, whilst the timberline is at about 3,000 feet. The Australian Eastern Highlands show very great differences from the New Zealand high country in general, but much of the North Island high country resembles that of Victoria. Except for the different vegetation, the ranges round Mt. Feathertop show the same kind of topography as the Tararua and Ruahine Ranges in the North Island. One particular similarity is in the sharp, well-defined ridges and spurs, and the steep valley walls. Tasmania has many similarities to Nelson Province in the South Island - lakes in mountain basins and rocky peaks and outcrops. However, the square, buttress-like mountains of Tasmania are of a different form from the sharp peaks of Nelson Province. One unique difference from New Zealand is the high alpine meadow system of Australia; the high plains of Bogong, Bennison, Dargo and the Kosciusko Plateau. These vast rolling meadows offer wonderful walking in summer with fine views, camp sites, and, best of all, from a bushwalker's point of view, travelling without losing hard-won altitude. In winter, these areas provide some of the best ski-touring country in the world. The climate of the Australian Alps is generally better in summer than the North Island high country, but more severe in winter, which is to be expected from their greater height. The timberline in Australia is about 2,000 feet higher

18 than in most parts of New Zealand, and the eucalypt forests are more open and brightly lit than the somewhat sombre heech forests. Australian rivers in the high country during fine weather are usually less dangerous, slower, and warmer than those in New Zealand; hence, Australian hush­ walkers may travel safely without the encumbrance of ropes, which are necessary for many river crossings in New Zealand. The big rivers rising in the Southern Alps are fed from glaciers and rise as the sun warms the glaciers and their snow­ fields. This means a small stream at 4 a.m. may be a torrent by 4 p.m., and many parties have been forced to shiver on the bank far into the evening until the snow and ice feeding the stream have again frozen and allowed the river to fall.

MTS. TRAVERS, CUPOLA AND FRANKLIN East Sabine Valley, Nelson Province. K. Lorking.

Rain, however, can change normally easy Australian rivers like the Upper Snowy, lndi, Geehi and Kiewa to an impassable flood within an hour. Fortunately, the necessity to cross rivers here is not great, as it is usually possible to travel con­ tinuously along a river bank, whilst in New Zealand it is often impossible to follow a river for very long owing to the many high bluffs and deep gorges which force a party to cross and recross the river, unless it cares to climb over these obstacles, which is often impracticable when carrying a pack. In the North Island and parts of the South Island the methods of bush travel are very similar to those in Australia. Parties find it easier and more direct to travel along ridges and spurs than in valleys. This mode of travel requires careful use of maps and compass, as often this sort of country is lacking in distinct land­ marks, and in mist it is very easy to take wrong ridges and become somewhat bewildered. In most of the South Island, however, it is better to travel along valleys and climb over the watershed from one valley to another. This mode of travel is forced upon a walker by the nature of this country - steep, glacial valley 19 walls make descent often impossible and dangerous. The spurs leading ofF ridges often appear easy from above, but have a bad habit of ending in a mass of sheer bluffs and treacherous slopes; so before ascending a ridge it is as well to be sure a descent can be safely made from some point along it. This "pass-hopping" style of travel is usually easier from a navigational point of view, as once in a valley one has no option but to follow it to its end; and this country abounds in conspicuous landmarks. Australian ridges and spurs are wider, more rounded and less well-defined than those in New Zealand, which makes route finding more difficult. Also numerous burnt-out areas in the Australian Eastern Highlands, with their attendant masses of fallen timber and second growth, make travelling very tedious. It is only after travelling through one of these areas that one can fully appreciate the meaning of the facetious term "scrub-bashing." The New Zealand forests were largely devoid of animal life until the early settlers released some deer, which took to the high country and multiplied to become a menace. They eat the young beech trees, thus thinning out the forest, and this has led to serious soil erosion in the high country. The New Zealand Government employs deer-stalkers to shoot the deer all the year round, but despite wholesale extermination, the numbers do not seem to have decreased greatly, and a tramper may still live on venison during a tramping trip if he is useful with a rifle. In the Southern part of the South Island there are a few thar and chamoix, and it is not an uncommon sight to see these agile beasts high up on glaciers and snowfields during the day. Fortunately, New Zealand has no snakes, and a New Zealander may be excused a little nervousness on this subject on his first walking trip in Australia; but when he sees the nonchalent attitude of local bushwalkers he soon (?) over­ comes his apprehension. The bird life in New Zealand forests is not as colourful as in Australia, the only birds approaching the colouring of Australian birds being the New Zealand native pigeon, or Kea. Despite lack of colour, the New Zealand forests are full of beautiful songsters, such as the Tui and Bellbird, and the friendly little bush robin, who is quite an actor. The Kea is a parrot-like bird, notorious among high country sheepmen as a killer of lambs. He is very destructive to tents and packs if these articles are left unattended. New Zealand has a large number of mountain clubs, some confining their activities to climbing, ski-ing or bush tramping, but many giving their time to all three activities. Nearly all these clubs are affiliated with the Federated Mountain Clubs organisation and much co-operation is obtained from the New Zealand Government in such matters as search organisation, hut building and publicity. Club huts are available to all when not in use by the club that owns them, and cleaning and maintenance of tracks is shared by all the mountain clubs. As in Australia, there is much good-humored rivalry between clubs. Every year a grand week-end is held not far from Wellington, ending with a great "corroboree" when many original songs are produced which are not always com­ plimentary to the habits and appearance of members of other clubs. It appears that bushcraft here follows the same commensense rules as in New Zealand, and any differences are due to the nature of the mountainous and bush country, and the climate. Bearing this in mind, one is able to point out the main differences in bushwalking technique in Australia and New Zealand. Australian bushwalkers travel more lightly, and are probably more competent with map and compass than the New Zealander, since their bushwalking is done in an easier climate, over greater distances, in country that has poorer landmarks than New Zealand. On the other hand, the New Zealand mountaineer or tramper is better equipped to withstand cold, and to tackle dangerous rivers or snow country. This means that he carries a greater load on his back and is less mobile. -Graham Bruere, 20 The Menagerie Lion

"The equator is a menagerie lion running around the centre of the earth" ... or so runs the old schoolboy howler. However, it is not only the schoolboy who feels impelled to see something of the romantic about such an imaginary line; but, more anon! If you happen to have followed the old Tin Mine Road northward out of Victoria on the way to Mt. Kosciusko - or if the detailed instructions given in this issue of WALK should encourage you to try it now - not the least intriguing part of the trip is the crossing of the Victoria-New South Wales border at Quambatt Hat. Here the infant Murray, at this point known variously as Quambatt (or Kowombat) Creek, Forest Creek, Boundary Creek, or the Upper Indi River, and born in the shade of the ridge of the Great Divide less than a mile to the eastward, is just another small mountain stream flowing across a smooth alpine snow-grass flat; a stream so small that the time-honoured custom is to be photographed standing astride it with a foot in either State. From Quambatt it flows to the west, steadily gathering strength from its many tributaries - many of them large rivers in their own right - until it becomes the mighty stream of the Hume Weir and the life-blood of the cities and towns which line its thousand-mile course to the sea. It also serves to delineate the border between the States of Victoria and New South Wales, but to the east of our little stream of Quambatt Flat there is no Murray River to serve this purpose. From the top of the Great Divide, which

QUAMBATT FLAT AND MT. PILOT ]. Smith. forms the watershed of the Murray, nature has provided no natural feature to mark the border, the country to the east being a succession of broken spurs and gullies across the broad valley of the Snowy River and on to the sea. To make good the deficiency, man has been forced to fall back on a "menagerie lion." A glance at any map which includes Victoria and New South Wales ~ill sho"": it; a heavy dotted line running from Cape Howe, on the Eastern coast, m. a straight line approximately West-North-West to the head of the Murray River, some distance south of Mt. Kosciusko. On many official maps of Victoria a note is 21 appended, "Boundary line with New South Wales marked by Messrs. Black & Allan, 1870-72." It is of this line that we would speak. Many a Quambatt camp-fire must have been enlivened by discussions on whether Black and Allan actually did traverse the line shown on the map. A day spent on the Big Cobbera or The Pilot induces a marked scepticism in many a walker; and so it was with much interest that we recently came upon an old publication" which included an article by Mr. R. J. Ellery, who was Superintendent of the Geodetic Survey of Victoria at the time of the border survey. The "Act of Separation" establishing Victoria as a separate State specified that the boundary should be " .•. a straight line drawn from Cape Howe to the nearest source of the Murray River." Nothing could be easier; at least, on a map. In the field, it would be hard to imagine a more difficult task. Initially, the terminal points had to be fixed. Like any other stream, the Murray does not suddenly leap from the ground as a steady-Rowing stream. Many small trickles of water from springs and soaks over a wide area form its headwaters, and one of these had to be located as being the nearest to Cape Howe - and where was Cape Howe, anyway? The latter difficulty was resolved by an on-the-spot conference between Mr. Ellery and Mr. Adams, the latter being Surveyor-General of New South Wales. Mr. Ellery tells us, " ... the coastline was traversed for about two miles, but no spot could be pointed to as being Cape Howe - it was all Cape Howe for nearly two miles. There was at first a difference of opinion, which gradually narrowed down to only about half a mile of coastline. An adjournment for lunch, which was waiting for the party under the shade of some ti-tree, interrupted the conference. Refreshment and a short rest, much required after a long and tiring journey, however, narrowed this limit down to ten chains imme­ diately on resuming the question, and ten minutes after lunch it was finally agreed to name a certain point of rocks 'Cape Howe' ...", and it was finally decided that, " ... if the line from the Murray struck the coast within five chains on either side of the point now marked and named 'Conference Point,' it would be accepted by both colonies." Mr. Black, who later became Surveyor-General of Victoria, then carefully examined the sources of the Murray and determined the nearest to Cape Howe. The terminal points chosen were about 110 miles apart, and the computing of the bearing of the line was not without its difficulties. The efficient way in which these were surmounted was shown by subsequent results. Then followed eighteen months of arduous field work on the part of Black and Allan. From a point at the head of the stream just north of Forest Hill, over wild hills and across mountain gullies and streams, they carried their line on its allotted bearing until, " ... Mr. Allan, who surveyed the coast end of the line, emerged from the forest-clad ranges, and turned his transit on to the rocks near Cape Howe, when he had the great satisfaction of seeing that his line struck Conference Point far within the limits agreed upon, and it was subsequently found that it passed within 16.8 feet of the mark set up, thus successfully carrying out an operation almost unique in higher surveying with an almost unhoped-for precision." When next you are at Quambatt or speeding along the Prince's Highway past Genoa, or the Bonang Highway to Delegate, maybe you'll think of Messrs. Black and Allan, and perhaps get ideas of following their long line of survey pegs­ perhaps! It might be a good stunt to run such a trip to mark the centenary of the event - especially as in 1970 most of us, even if we could spare the time, will then be able to plead "too old." Perhaps a trip which took Black and Allan eighteen months to survey would require more than our fortnight's annual leave.

""Victoria and its Metropolis." McCarron Bird & Co., Mel b. 22 BUSHFIRES KILL!

e Douse your fire with WATER

e AND protect the country and yourself

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Are you interested in the ownership of a block of land situated at the southern extremity of Victoria, which provides one with splendid scenic grandeur un­ paralleled anywhere by its variety of delightful fern gullies and extensive panoramic views from granite-topped peaks of rugged, mountainous ranges and beautiful seascape? If not, you should be, as such an area of land belongs to both you and me. I am, of course, referring to Wilson's Promontory. Remember that "National Parks are our Natural Heritage," and of the all-too-few National Parks which Victoria possesses only the above-mentioned has been proclaimed as such by an act of Parliament. This Act was passed in 1905 after much agitation by the Field Naturalists' Club of Victoria and other interested organisations. The "Prom" is at present undergoing Reorganisation. At Tidal River there is being built a small village of bungalows, complete with a store for the convenience of tourists. The ranger has been moved from his post as "Sentinel" at Darby River to this secluded Tidal River camp. This means that people can now enter the Reserve without first having to contact the ranger, and thus can bring their dogs and firearms to destroy what little is left of the fauna in the Reserve, if they so desire The money spent on the Tidal River camp could have been better spent on the opening up of the numerous scenic tracks which lead to the various beauty spots; after all, the type of tourist likely to use these bungalows is not likely to do any "scrub-bashing." Of course, they can always turn Norman Bay into a picnic rather than a scenic beach, with bathing boxes, lolly papers, and other rubbish. Regarding the so-called development of certain areas of Victoria - economists call it "progress" with an increase to the wealth of the State - if this "development" is assessed with relation to the damage done to the Hora and fauna which future generations will be only able to visualise through writings, then the products from our progress have been dearly bought. Nature creates an equilibrium amongst its Hora and fauna, and when this equilibrium is upset, the long-established species are seriously curtailed, or more often than not completely destroyed; thus, the past splendour disappears into the obscure future as another area dies an unwonted death at the hands of civilised human beings. A lucid example of this is the Dandenong Ranges, which a quarter of a century ago constituted a natural area of numerous picturesque fern gullies and delightful bush walks, giving people who so desired that feeling of freedom with the enjoyment of Nature's wonders. Now the western slopes are fast becoming a closely-populated area, whilst the eastern slopes have been denuded of natural growth and replanted with cultivated crops. Surely if some of this area had been proclaimed a National Park we would have made real progress in that we would have preserved for all time an area primitive to civilised people, and a natural home for the Hora and fauna it has protected in the past. There are other areas in Victoria which have hitherto been inaccessible except to those who have desired to travel by means of horse or by walking, and which are now being opened up by the construction of roads to enable timber, a much­ needed commodity, to be felled and brought to the mills which are now situated in areas selected by the Forests Commission of Victoria. This selecting of mill­ sites by a competent authority is a major step forward for the prevention of bush­ fires. The timber industry must proceed, but certain particular areas, by reason 24 of their suitability either as scenic reserves or as areas which harbour Rora and/or fauna, should be set aside as National Parks before the devastation of mankind takes needless toll. The areas which have been cleared could be re·forested in such a way that natural firebreaks are formed by planting trees which do not burn readily when green, such as the oak, ash and birch, to form these breaks. Suitable gullies could also be planted with these trees to help prevent soil erosion which always occurs when gullies are denuded of their vegetation. Some graziers also take toll of Nature's wonders in that they "burn-off" large areas so as to stimulate the growth of the grass for fodder. These fires, even when kept in control, destroy especially the native flora, and, of course, when they get out of control all that is left of what was a colourful scene is a blackened, desolate expanse.

FERN GULLY- JACK'S CASCADES G. Coutts. There have been alarming instances recently where the Committee of Management of certain National Parks have sold the feature for which the area has been reserved. This sounds fantastic, but the Committees have to have money to maintain these Parks, and this has been their only means of doing so. For instance, the Committee of Management of the Kinglake National Park leased portion of the Park to a timber-miller to raise funds for improvements to the Park. The scoria, which is geologically world-famed and for which purpose the Tower Hill National Park was reserved, has been sold for road-metal What can be done to overcome these mis-usings of our National Parks? In June, 1946, a Conference of all organisations interested in the formation of a National Parks and Monuments Authority in Victoria was convened by the Field Naturalists' Club of Victoria. In December, 1948, after several meetings, the Conference approved a number of resolutions which it is hoped eventually to have adopted by the Government as the basis of future National Parks policy. These resolutions recommend the Statutory formation of a National Parks and Monuments Authority, to be a truly representative body responsible for executive direction of policies, the actual work of administering each park being vested in committees somewhat as at present. Provisions have been included to ensure that each body will be composed of capable and interested persons. Regular reports to the Authority and to Parliament are considered desirable. The necessity for adequate 25 funds and power to recommend the acquisition of new parks and monuments was also stressed. An opportunity arose in September, 1949, for a deputation to wait on the Minister for Lands, who said that, on the Premier's instructions, he would pass the information on to the State Development Committee for them to make further investigations. I'm quite sure that if the State Development Committee were to visit Queensland and see some of the 226 National Parks there, they would realise just how far behind we are with this National development. In Great Britain a Town and Country Planning Act came into operation in July, 1948. What about Victoria? Success, of course, depends first of all on the readiness of local authorities to use to the best advantage the opportunities offered them, and secondly, on ensuring that the Departments of State, especially the Service Departments, do not encroach on these areas. And so it is hoped that within the very near future we will have in Victoria adequately directed National Parks and Monuments that will remain for all time as a credit to civilisation. -Gordon Coutts.

ON THE ART OF PHOTOGRAPHY So you want to take photos on walks! I wouldn't you know, I've been through all that. It starts simply enough with just one of those box cameras for "beginners" finding its way from a "kind" friend into your hands. He's probably burning to get rid of it or wanting to make you a slave, too. My advice is, dispose of it SOMEHOW, ANYHOW! . . . I can see you scorn my advice, but don't say I didn't warn you! You find out how this contraption works and take it along on the next walk. Doubtful as to the best way of carrying it? In your hands, of course; it's bound to be always in - I beg your pardon - in the road. Mustn't miss that perfect shot, you know. And don't let slippery tracks worry you; remember there's always something to fall back on! So you came home without any shots! Well, cheer up, it won't pour every time. Did I hear you say you were going to buy a GOOD camera? You are just obstinate, that's clear. But go right ahead; what's the use of saving in THESE days And then all those gadgets to impress your friends! You are going to carry it in a case round your neck, of course; that'll equalise the weight of your pack - there's nothing like it and truly to be recommended. By the way, you had better acquire a tin whistle, too, so you can let the leader know you are still SOMEWHERE on the track and only lost in pictures, not in thoughts. Don't be discouraged, you'll eventually catch up with the others. Remember, you will have your snaps in the end! End is right, for you do your own developing and printing, now, of course. Having trouble with the family? Don't let them kid you, a bit of hypo is just the thing on soup dishes. And they say you are staining the carpet! Well, just remember to get paid for all incidental improvements. Now isn't life glorious? No more thumb-twiddling, no more boredom. You are occupied EVERY night in the week. And if you don't believe me, just TRY. P.S.-You may have guessed, I've been bitten by the bug myself. -Gerda Schwerin, 26 Skippy on the Skyline House-keeping on the Tops

I first met Skip on a bus. It was after dark one perishingly cold night in August, and was as cold as only buses can make it. I was wearing everything I could possibly get on, and still walk or sit comfortably. Skis were something new to me, and it hadn't made matters any more pleasant having to fight the things to get them into the bus. I was heading for the Bogong Ski Club Lodge. After passing Tawonga, the route lies along the S.E.C. road which winds its way upwards through Bogong township (2,100 ft.), until it meets the snowline below Bowman's Gap ( 4,040 ft.), then on through the snow for some miles to Falls Creek. On my way into the bus

FRYING-PAN SPUR & FALLS CK. Skip's home is below on right. D. Lemaire.

I passed a girl with fair hair, blue eyes, and the loveliest tan imaginable - and this was August! I sat in the seat behind, and through scraps of conversation that drifted back to me I gathered this girl was just returning from Hotham after competing in the Ski Championships there. It wasn't long before we were all chatting together and I met "Skippy" St. Elmo (Mrs. Toni St. Elmo-Beveridge), "Skip" for short. We were both going to the same place. I was going for a fortnight's holiday, but Skip was going HOME. Home to Skippy is a little over 5,000 ft. and about 800 yards below the Bogong Ski Club on Falls Creek, away up near Rocky Valley. After leaving Bowman's the road twists and turns, always upwards, with the snow getting deeper and deeper, until you turn a corner, and there, nestling in the folds of the mountain, is the St. Elmo house - called Toni's locally. It is built of timber, and painted cream and green, with windows to the ground. In winter the snow is packed right up against these windows. When I first came on Toni's it was just like a fairy house. There was snow everywhere, sparkling and clean and fresh. The trees were heavy with it. We 27 had to enter through a special door, then through a utility shed crammed with wood and skis, and this and that, till we came to a porch; and here we changed our heavy snow-encrusted ski-boots for a pair of nice, dry slippers. I was new, and naturally a bit dull, I guess, because the pair I eventually picked up were­ well, they must breed mighty big men up in them thar hills! I pity the poor chap who got a pair of Skip's, for she only takes size three. Still, my slippers and I became very attached to each other, and they followed me everywhere. I had to run back and get them a few times when I moved too quickly. Also, they were handy to retire into when asking for that third cup of tea. The next time I had to change boots for slippers I had been initiated and did what everyone does. When you first enter, you cast your eye along the long row of slippers and mentally pick out the warmest and best size for yourself; and the newest, of course- but you don't take! You go like mad to remove your boots, then grab the pair you have your eye on as if they had been the nearest, and not previously chosen. The house is a delightful one, with the occupants' personalities and good tastes displayed everywhere. The kitchen is very bright and cheerful; one of those "chintzy" kitchens, with a big window from where you can see the mountains towering above. In the lounge the windows go right down to the ground, and if you sit at one of these you can look far down the lovely Kiewa Valley; and if you move your head a little there looms up massive Spion Kopje. The store room is like a small grocer's shop with shelves to the ceiling, and there are big bins for Hour and sugar. Their food (tinned goods and veg.) is sent in before the winter, usually the end of May. Having to order your winter's food months beforehand wouldn't make for easy house-keeping, but Skip is very jolly about it, and takes it all for granted; and the dinners and suppers she concocts from the store room have become legendary As a matter of fact, the season of the year she likes best of all is the snow season, July-August. She differs on this point from Toni, who prefers the wildflower time, November-December. Skip hasn't always had her modern kitchen and pressure-cooket. She and Toni lived in Wallace's Hut - a hut that looks like a post-card bush hut, as most walkers know - and she wasn't always as experienced as she is now. She had lived most of her life in the city, and as for ski-ing, hadn't seen snow let alone skis. In the winter of 1946 the hut was 3 ft. 6 in. under snow at the ridging, the heaviest fall during one night averaging 4 ft. (not drift). The blizzard raged off and one for five weeks. She saw the sun, and then only through haze, for two hours during that time. The average depth of snow during that year was 10 ft. It snowed day and night for about forty days, and never ceased once. House­ keeping under such conditions would be rather difficult, and take some managing. To get water she had to go some 150 paces from the door, and then it had to be carried in kero tins. "I found that water for washing was easily acquired by first putting about two cups of water in the tin and then filling it up with compact snow; this will then melt readily," said Skip. The food for winter at Wallace's had to be packed in on pack-horses, and to get fresh meat and bread they used to ski every Friday - which was supply day - down to the snowline and meet Geo. Fitzgerald. He was always on time, and a good friend to all snow­ bound folk. I asked Skip if she had seen any amusing things in the snow. Some stand out more than others, and the following is one instance. Imagine two folk in love, and both being very nice and helpful to each other; quite in the novice class in both respects, love and ski-ing. He was a little better on the skis than she, and she was trying to be very ladylike and fall in a most dignified way. However, his 28 patience after a while broke little by little, until at last he ran downslope and then told his love to do the same. She only replied, "Oh, no, John. Oh, I can't, really," until he was nearly out of his mind. Still, as they say, "You never know a woman,'' and while John was climbing back up the slope, her ladyship took off, Hying down the slope like a runaway train. John stopped, petrified, with his eyes a-popping. It did look as if John's career was all over; and then it happened. Her ladyship was sitting half-buried in the snow, skis pointed drunkenly skyward like two large knitting needles in a big ball of Huffy, white wool, her stocks lying nearby. She peered up through the skis at John. I thought he would explode, but, instead, he smiled, and like a gentleman quietly said, "My dear, as I've told you before, it's two purl, one plain." Skip has a fine sense of humour, and one of the little stories she tells about herself is of her early days. "I was just learning to ski, and was terribly excited. I dashed in and put the meal on for lunch. At lunch, Toni said, 'What's this, Skip? It tastes like dog's meat!' I nearly died, for it was; then I found that I'd cooked the dog's meat by mistake, all because I was so excited. It happened while we were on our honeymoon, and I've often wondered how many brides have given their husbands dog's meat for lunch and fed the dogs on fillet steak!" Then there IS the other side of things. In connection with his job, Toni has to go out in all weathers, and this is not without its worries for Skippy. "If you have experienced a blizzard, then you know what it's like," said Skip. "If you have not, then never look forward to it, for it can be very, very terrifying, to say the least. During one 'bad blow' I can well remember we were running down a slope, and the trees were clad in a heavy layer of ice rime. Visibility was very bad, and we were almost home when I saw Toni take a bad spill. When I reached him there was blood everywhere, but fortunately it was only a minor cut. What had really happened was that Toni, in ski-ing down the slope which he knew well, and was running quite fast, had been hit by a piece of ice rime blown from a nearby tree. It had cut him over the temple, making a small, fleshy cut which had bled freely. The point was that Toni didn't remember the ice hitting him nor himself hitting the snow. He had been dazed. I often wonder what could happen to a lone skier in a 'bad blow.'! Apart from the ever-present possibility of being lost, there is always that little unforeseen accident that can crop up. For with that trip always in mind, I do have anxious moments about Toni in winter, and try to be with him on all his trips - in winter he averages a little more than 100 miles a week." The household is completed by two cats - Bonza and Ullr - the latter called after the patron saint of skiers - who are attached to the kitchen, at least they are attached "when" they can get in, and that takes some doing. At times I have watched; sometimes it's a very sly entrance, and then again quite bold and brazen, but once in they are firmly established in front of the fire and defy you to put them out. They are orange tortoiseshell cats. A thing I have often wondered about is whether the kitchen was decorated for the cats or the cats for the kitchen; they seem to fit into the colour scheme perfectly. It is reported that these two are by now not the only tortoiseshell cats up that way. I was invited to come back in the summer, which I did. I then received one of my most pleasant surprises, for I discovered that sleeping under the winter snows there was a garden. In one plot in front of the lounge Skip had planted specimens she had collected from the mountain tops around her to remind her of many a pleasant summer walk that she and Toni had been. There were plants from Mts. Cope, McKay, Spion Kopje, Nelse and Basalt Hill. I asked Skip would she like to go back to city life, and the answer came surely and promptly with a little twinkle, and, I think, a little pity for me. "Go back? . , . No, never." Ed. Richards.

29 Broadly Speaking !

A. R. Broad

of 64 ELIZABETH STREET

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30 Do You Know Your Eucalypts ?

In the previous issue of "WALK" a brief outline was given of a convenient method of classifying our euclaypts on the basis of the appearance of the bark. This provided a useful starting point from which more detailed observation will frequently result in positive identification of a tree without recourse to elaborate botanical examination. In the present article three species which are commonly met in Victorian mountain areas have been selected for further detailed description to assist in their recognition when out on walks. They are:- Mountain ash ...... E. regnans Alpine ash ...... E. gigantea Silvertop ash E. Sieberiana

TYPICAL WOOLLYBUTT FOREST Eucalyptus Gigantea on The Clear Hills. G. Christensen.

Although all three species are denoted by the term "ash," they do not all belong to the one bark group. In fact, they are all somewhat anomalous in that none of the three species is typical of any of the bark groups. They are, nevertheless, very common and important species. The term "ash" probably has its origin in the properties of the wood itself. Botanically, E. regnans is very closely akin to the Peppermints, although the larger portion of the trunk has the smooth bark of the Gums. The other species are commonly included in the Stringybarks, although the bark of E. Sieberiana is somewhat similar in appearance to the lronbarks, and it is sometimes included with them. Following is a brief description of some of the distinguishing features of each of these species.

MOUNTAIN ASH - E. regnans. Mountain ash is probably one of the best-known of the euclaypts by virtue of its size and handsome appearance. It normally grows tall and straight for 200- 300 feet with only a small crown. 31 Bush walking and Wild Llje go hand in hand

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32 BARK.-The bark is smooth and whitish for the most part, but brown and fibrous at the extreme base. LEAVEs.-The leaves are small, 2-4 inches long, lanceolate, curved and thin, with numerous pellucid oil dots. HABITAT.-It is widespread throughout Victoria, e.g., East Victoria, Otways, Yarra Valley, and Gippsland. It grows well on moist slopes and hills in good soil at elevations of from 500-2,500 feet. It is extremely sensitive to fire, which has been largely responsible for its disappearance from large areas of the State. Some fine specimens may be seen still at Sherbrooke Forest.

ALPINE ASH - E. gigantea. Alpine ash, also known commonly as "woollybutt," is one of the most valuable of our millable timbers because of its clean, straight grain. It is a moderately tall tree, 100-250 feet high, with a bushy top. BARK.-The bark covering the lower trunk is reddish, stringy, and closely matted. Higher, the bark becomes smooth, and bluish-grey or whitish. LEAVEs.-The leaves are large, often 9 inches long and 2 inches broad, lanceolate and curved. HABITAT.-Alpine ash grows plentifully in N.E. Victoria and the Baw Baws. It occurs at a higher elevation than mountain ash, e.g., 3,000-5,000 ft., but the two may overlap. It is closely allied to messmate stringybark, which it frequently succeeds at higher elevations.

SILVER'TOP ASH - E. Sieberiana. This species also is a tall tree of about 80-150 feet. BARK.-The bark, its distinguishing feature, is deeply furrowed, dark brown, and superficially similar to that of the lronbarks, although it is softer, less corrugated, and pinkish underneath. This bark extends to the small branches, where it becomes smooth and white, although sometimes yellowish or purplish. LEAVEs.-The leaves, 4-6 inches by 1 inch, are leathery in texture, oblique, and more or less curved. The lateral veins form a very acute angle with the midrib and run nearly the full length of the leaf. HABITAT.-This species is found fairly generally in N.E. and E. Victoria over a range of altitudes from 200-5,000 feet. It grows chiefly on rocky mountain ranges with poor granite, sandstone or slatey soil, often on southern slopes. Following is a brief table setting out the major differences:- E. regnans. E. gigantea. E. Sieberiana. Elevation (ft). 500-2,500. 3,000-5,000. 200-5,000. Bark ...... Peppermint for Peppermint f o r Like a soft, brittle iron- 5-15 ft. Gum 30-50 ft. Gum bark, brown, with pink above. above. underbark. S m o o t h, yellow - purplish on smaller branches. Leaves Soft green- Soft green- Bluish-green, leathery 2 4 in. x I in. Up to 9 in. x 2 in. 4-6 in. x I in. Young leaves Green. Blue Blue. Stem of fruit umbel Round. Round. Flattened. Stand .. Pure. Pure. Mixed with Stringy­ barks. -G. N. Christensen.

33 OVER THE FEDERATION RANGE AND MT.TORBRECK

Great interest was manifested when a walk to the Federation Range and Mt. Torbreck was mooted, and it came to pass that a happy and excited club party set out from the Lake Mountain turn-off at Easter, 1949. This walk was in the nature of an exploratory walk, as none of the party had previously been past Echo Flat. In fact, few parties have been in the vicinity of the Federation Range and Mt. Torbreck for ten years or so. We lunched at a small creek near the ruins of a hut. About 1 ~ hours later we passed the Y.H.A. turn-off and soon afterwards left the road and made our way to the Lake Mountain tower through the scrub. Quite some time was spent here for the benefit of the camera fiends. From the tower, Mt. Torbreck was clearly seen about 12 miles away a little east of north. We then headed for Echo Flat, where we made camp about 5 p.m. Near our camp was a swamp with a small creek flowing in, probably forming the headwaters of Koala Creek. The camp site was on the edge of a large clump of snow gums, mostly dead, where a happy evening was spent around the camp fire. When the moon rose, our camp took on a strange eerieness which was heightened by the snow gums assuming ghostly forms due to the flickering of the flames of our camp fire. Shortly after leaving camp the next morning we came to what appeared to be a small cairn indicating a track junction. We followed the pad to the left, much to our sorrow, as a further visit to this area some months later proved that the track to the right was the correct one. The left pad petered out after a few minutes and we soon found ourselves in very dense scrub and fallen timber. After crossing a couple of small gullies, a steep and tortuous descent was made to the Royston River, where we spent some time resting. Soon after crossing the river we struck a pad running along the fairly wide and long saddle joining Echo Flat with the Federation Range. After about 45 minutes we began to climb steadily to the southern end of the range. About I o'clock we had a dry lunch, and ten minutes after lunch came out on the southern peak at a prominent rocky outcrop and were rewarded with wonderful views of Mt. Matlock, Mt. Skene, and also Mt. Terrible, which was much nearer than the others. We were somewhat disappointed about this, because we could have spent the whole lunch time at this spot. From the Royston River to the rocky outcrop walking was fairly easy, although the track was somewhat obliterated in many places. A number of grassy clearings were passed on the way. From the rocky outcrop we followed along the top of the range for about half a mile and plunged once more into the scrub. Scrub-bashing was the order of the day for the next hour or so until we came out on a fairly extensive snowgrass plain. Between the rocky outcrop and the snowgrass plain it is better to keep to the western fall so as to avoid the very dense scrub. This was learned some months later. From the snowgrass plain we proceeded in a northerly direction and started to descend. Soon Mt. Federation to the north-west and Mt. Torbreck to the north became visible through tall gums. Our original intention was to visit Mt. Federation (called Mt. Bullfight on some maps), but as time was pressing we reluctantly set our course for Snob's Gap. We then began to descend very sharply through country not quite so scrubby as previously encountered, but fairly well timbered. After crossing two sub­ stantial creeks we came out on an old road which in half an hour led us to Snob's Gap at 5.45 p.m. Here there was once a Country Roads Board or Forestry camp, and camp was made in a number of these huts. This camp was in the process of being dismantled when a second visit was made to the Gap some months later. 34 From Snob's Gap (3,383 feet) we followed the road on the right bank of Snob's Creek for about four miles, and when we looked back Mt. Federation was observed dominating the head of the valley. This valley is generally very narrow, but widens out for some distance above the falls. Five miles below the Gap we crossed over to the other bank, and as we proceeded down the valley we observed on the left numerous places where timber was still being obtained, while the slopes of the Torbreck Range were very heavily clothed with young gums. This was so also above the crossing. Lunch was taken at the Falls, about nine miles from the Gap. This place was a delight, especially for the camera fiends. Camp was made on the banks of the Goulburn, where another pleasant evening was spent. Snob's Creek flows into the Goulburn about three miles below the Eildon Weir, and the road we followed before making camp joins the main road running to the Weir.

The Eildon Weir and the surrounding hills held our interest for the next day before we left for Melbourne by parlour coach. From Mt. Pinniger, which is close to the weir and very clear on top, an excellent view of Mt. Torbreck and Rocky Peak was obtained. Rocky Peak is north-east of Torbreck. Mt Torbreck appears to be the same shape from every viewpoint. The next view of it we obtained from the retaining wall of the weir. From Snob's Gap some of the party climbed over Mt. Torbreck (5,001 feet) and arrived at the weir about lunch-time the next day. The route from Snob's Gap to Cabbage Tree Gap is comparatively easy, consisting of a number of undula­ tions interspersed with clearings sometimes 100 yards long. From Cabbage Tree Gap to Mt. Torbreck is the toughest part of the trip, and takes about two hours for what appears a few hundred yards. A magnificent panorama greets the eye when the summit is reached and proves a fitting climax to an arduous climb, the view being one of the finest in Victoria. Just below the cairn and slightly east of north the wreckage of a Percival Proctor plane can be found. Leaving the summit, a track was discovered heading in a northerly direction along the range. This was followed for some time until it was decided to make a determined effort to reach the Dry Creek road (and water) to the east of the mountain. From here one can follow the road to the Weir or Jerusalem Creek from Knowles' Gap. This is an excellent though strenuous four-day trip with great points of interest on each day, with views from the Lake Mountain tower, from the rocky outcrop, and from Mt. Torbreck. Snob's Creek Falls and the Eildon Weir are also worth visiting. -Warren J. L. Olle.

(Concluded from page I 0)

From Sugarloaf one can easily pick a route out to the open country. To the south-west a long ridge leads in the direction of Coimadai, so this way we hied ourselves. Apart from a short search for water at lunch time, this latter part of the trip was uneventful. And so we completed a ring of walks in this interesting area. There remain many spurs and valleys for us yet to explore as the occasion presents itself, but the geographical framework already travelled makes it easy to fill in the gaps just pot­ tering around. Perhaps no area lends itself so admirably to "pottering," for down in the valleys or poking around the ridges and spurs one is in a world apart; but, when time calls, an hour or so in the right direction will lead back to a road . . . and the cares of the week. -Norm Richards. 35 There's need for energy ahead -CABBIJBY~S BNBB6Y HHOWLATB

E4FP7

36 ?X_erver cAgain !

(Written after the Millgrove Track-Clearing Week-end)

I breakfast each Sunday at quarter to eight, One eye on the clock so as not to be late. Why do I turn out, while others lie in? Is it riches, or honour, or glory to win?

No! It simply is part of the Bushwalkers' plan To spend half the day in a furniture van, To walk with a pack on, just like a mule. So that people in cars can say "What a damn fool"!!

When camped in my tent on a bleak mountain top, For two days it rained, and it never did stop. All alone in the bush, between twelve and one, When my tent started leaking, I had lots of fun.

The water all trickled across my groundsheet, And I got soaking wet from my head to my feet. When I did get to sleep, I had a bad dream, I was pickled in ice in a clear mountain stream!

I promised myself, "Oh! Never again Will I camp in the bush in the cold and the rain." When I told what had happened to win sympathy, The girls had a good laugh, and gave me some tea

What with leeches and marchflies, the rain and sore feet. Some folks these outings would never repeat, But Bushwalkers must have a kink in the brain, Because one thing is certain - I'll do it again!

-Harold L. Williams.

37 Mount Cook and Its Glaciers South Island - New Zealand

A vivid description of the scenic beauties of New Zealand in our last number enticed me to spend my holiday on a trip through New Zealand, and I now fully share R. Craigen's enthusiasm for the grandeur and ruggedness of the Southern Alps. I followed more or less his journey, going from Auckland by night train to Wellington and by air, via Christchurch, to Dunedin. Flying south along the East Coast of the South Island in glorious sunshine, I could follow the whole chain of snow-covered peaks, and had my first glimpse of the dominating Mt. Cook. My approach to the Alps was also via Gore and Lake Te Anau, and the third night after leaving Melbourne I slept at the chalet of "Cascade Creek," in the Eglington Valley. The following morning, I walked to the wonderful dark waters of Lakes Gunn and Fergus, and in the afternoon travelled by bus through the magnificent Upper Hollyford Valley to the Homer Tunnel. An afternoon boat trip around the lake led to the Dome Islands.

MT. WAKEFIELD - 6,561 FT. Southern Alps, New Zealand.

The country around Lake T e Anau has been so well described by R. Craigen that I just follow on giving a picture on my journey further North. From Lumsden I took the road to Lake Wakatipu. A sinuous road between the "Remarkables" and the lake, with excellent views of the mountains surrounding the beautiful stretch of water, brought us to the famous holiday resort of Queenstown. In spite of doubtful weather, the magnificent colour scheme of the deep blue waters of the lake, the snow-covered mountain peaks, the golden poplars and willows, the dark green shades of the various pine trees and the olive green of the native beeches, and the very vividly painted roofs of the township leaning gently against the slopes of Ben Lomond, were most enjoyable. The following morning a car took me through the very bare but rugged scenery of the Kawarau Gorge to the small town of Cromwell, where I could admire from a high steel bridge the joining of the very turbulent waters of the Kawarau and Clutha Rivers, then through the 38 open gold mining country along the Clutha River to Lake Wanaka for lunch. We could only guess the full beauty of that lake, as the high mountain peaks to the north and west showed only intermittently some of their snow-covered grandeur. On the winding road to Lindis Pass the view was mostly obscured by dark clouds, until we reached the huge construction camp at the Lake Pukaki damsite. The shores of this lake are rather bare, and the 37 miles along the south-west shore of it and its feeder, the Tasman River, were not very interesting, apart from a short-lived miracle. Approaching the Hermitage Chalet we suddenly noticed the fading sun pierce the clouds, showing us for a few seconds the white majesty of Mt. Cook. The very comfortable Hermitage has a magnificent location, surrounded on all sides by high mountain peaks, itself being only about 2,500 ft. above sea­ level. Opposite the large glass windows of the lounge, across the grass flats of the Hooker River, rises the sharp ridge of Mt. Wakefield (6,561 ft.) hiding the view to the 18 miles long Tasman Glacier. Following the ridge to the north, we have the Southern (II,787 ft ) and Middle ( 12,173 ft.) peaks of Mt. Cook.

FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER FROM PETER'S POOL Then follow further to the left Mts. La Perouse (IO,I01 ft.) and, looming above the valley in their stately splendour, Footstool (9,073 ft.) and Sefton (10,359 ft.), crowned in eternal snows, giving an unforgettable picture. After a heavy snow­ fall during the night, I could not fail to be deeply impressed by the grandeur of the panoramic view bathed in brilliant sunshine. The chalet itself leans against the steep slopes of Mt. Annette (7,351 ft.), whilst a 3-mile track climbs up to Mt. Sebastopol ( 4, 819 ft.). In such scenic beauty I could not resist planning some trip to higher altitudes. I invited a fellow-passenger in the car from Queenstown, a Lancashire engineer stationed at Rabaul and holidaying in Australia and New Zealand, to join me; changed my travel itinerary by sending all my surplus luggage via bus 39 and train to Christchurch and Greymouth, and then discussed with the chief guide the possibility of crossing the main range. Fortunately, I had all my walking equipment with me, so I needed only a few nails in my boots. A pair of ice axes were obtainable at the chalet, and we accepted the advice to take two guides with us. We started after lunch in marvellous sunshine on a track leading down towards the junction of the Mueller and Hooker Glaciers. After two miles we crossed the first swing bridge, followed the Hooker River, and passed the very dirty looking face of the Mueller Glacier. We continued on our way on stony slopes leaving the Hooker Glacier below us with Mt. Cook on our right. It took us only two hours to reach the very clean two-roomed Hooker Hut (about 3,500 ft.) from where we intended climbing the Copland Pass (7,000 ft.) the following day. The weather now did not look too promising, but we were still hopeful. There were plenty of blankets on the bunks, and we certainly needed them, because it became bitterly cold; strong winds were howling around us, competing with the shrieking of the keas. The next morning did not look too bright, and we had to decide to stay at the hut, as the snowstorm was still raging. The whole day was spent in reading journals, discussing with the guides their mountaineering experiences and, last but not least, eating the very well-cooked meals. Another night at the hut did not increase our hopes for the following day, and on Good Friday morning, the weather not improving, the bad snow conditions and lack of food forced us to return to the Hermitage. Leaving the hut we saw three chamoix only 100 yards away. We arrived at the chalet just before lunch. Meanwhile the weather had cleared, and glorious sunshine in the afternoon made us regret that we did not climb the pass after all. The journey via Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo, Fairlie, Geraldine and then the straight bitumen road through Ashburton and the Canterbury Plains was uneventful, although the clear weather often gave us fine views of the Alps. A hurried visit to Christchurch, a night journey in a goods train to the West Coast via the Otira Tunnel and arrival at daybreak at Greymouth on a bitterly cold Easter Sunday morning brought me to the westerly approaches of Mt. Cook (12,349 ft.). I could see the peaks of this mountain, as well as Mt. Tasman (11,475 ft.) far on the southern end of the long main range, on my short bus trip to the old gold mining town of Hokitika. Easter Monday the motor coach took me on the 95-mile West Coast Road south to the Waiho Hotel. Of the numerous bus trips I undertook during my short visit to New Zealand there is no doubt the West Coast journey is scenically the most beautiful. After passing the little township of Kanieri with a still­ operating gold dredge and the Hokitika River, the road follows gentle slopes with numerous views of the sea on the right and the mountains to the left, leads through the old gold mining town of Ross, and then enters the very dense forest scenery of beeches, rimu pines, fern trees and bushland of the most exquisite verdure. Winding through Ferguson's Bush, crossing Waitaha River, climbing again and descending along the beautiful Lake Ianthe, crossing the Wanganui River with perfect views of deep valleys and sharp rising mountains on our left, we stopped at the little village of Hari Hari for lunch. Here the landscape is more open with cattle grazing on the plains. After crossing the Poerua River the road curves again through dense bush up Mt. Hercules then falls to the wide estuary of the Wataroa River, which is crossed on a spectacular bridge. Along Lake Mapourika we enjoyed splendid views from various angles. Then the road opened up and we saw in front of us in miniature the white mass of Franz Josef Glacier. The glacier road branches off the main West Coast road after crossing a suspension bridge across the W aiho River and leads through dense bush along 40 the roaring waters of the Waiho River. From a turntable at the end of the road a mountain track leads down over steel ladders to the bed of the river. A short walk on the gravel of the river bed brought me to the terminal face of the glacier. It was about 5 p.m., the light fairly good with the surrounding snow­ covered mountain peaks bathed in sunshine, the lower slopes in dark green forest scenery, a few glittering waterfalls coming out of the rocks and cliffs and in front of me, only 692 ft. above sea-level, a lovely ice grotto in all shades from brilliant white to dark greenish blue and framed by brilliant pinnacles between deep blue cracks. The picture was overwhelming. Although I had to hurry for dinner, I had difficulty in tearing myself away. I was still favoured by excellent weather - which is rather exceptional on the wet West Coast. So I took my boots, rucksack and a few sandwiches and climbed the easy winding track to Alec's Knob (about 4,300 ft.). Along the track the vegetation is extremely rich and the various species of fern show vivid green colours. At about 3,000 ft. the track becomes more open and allows better views. Towards the summit trees become scarcer and the grassy ridges are covered with fresh but melting snow. I reached the peak in 3! hours and enjoyed right on top of the mountain a good lunch, a warming sunshine and an unforgettable view. In front and deep below was the Franz Josef Glacier in all its beautiful white and spread for a length of 8! miles, falling 8,000 feet from the Graham Saddle on the skyline to the terminal, where I had admired the blueish grotto the evening before. That brilliant white was surrounded by the dark green forest­ covered slopes rising up to rocky faces and finally snow-covered mountains. Mt. Cook was not visible because of the peaks of the Fritz Range, Mt. Bismarck and Mt. Moltke in front of it; but the high peaks around the Graham Saddle and at the top end of the Franz Josef Glacier, especially the snow-covered cone of Mt. Elie de Beaumont (10,176 ft.) gave a truly grandiose mountain scenery. Although some misty clouds started to rise, I could still recognise the dark waters of Lake Mapourika amidst the dense forests, and further to the West the grey waters of the Tasman Sea. Descending the same track, I branched off for a short walk to Lake Wombat, with its dark waters in the middle of lovely bush­ land. Coming down to the glacier road I followed the bush track to Peter's Pool, and then, via Callery Gorge with panoramic suspension bridge and Lone Pine Track, back to the Waiho Hotel; but did not forget to pay a vsit to St. James' Church, with the well-known view of the glacier as its altar background. The following day I had to return to Hokitika and Greymouth, from where I travelled by plane via Westport and Nelson to Wellington, and then in three days by bus via Napier and Rotorua back to Auckland. From Good Friday - the return from the Hooker Hut - onwards, I had permanently fine weather, up to Rotorua where I enjoyed a Sunday morning swim, in spite of rainy weather, in one of the famous hot swimming pools. A point worth mentioning on my journey through the North Island was that between the Massey Agricultural College and Palmerston North I could see, from a distance of more than 100 miles, an almost unreal picture, the snow-covered cone of Mt. Egrnont (8,260 ft.) rising out of the misty plains like something supernatural. -Paul Lederer.

41 LADS and LASSES * 6 Good Reasons HOW You Can Live and Learn the Out­ door Way - At Reasonable Cost

BUSH WALKING • CYCLING • CANOEING • SKIING • HOBSE RIDING • SURFING * For Further Enquiries-Call, Write or 'Phone ~ Y.H.A. OFFICE, 161 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE

~ ~~~~~~~~r~~~~~~~~~~~~ Mountain Muster Pars from the Peaks

MT. WELLINGTON: Interest continues in the creation of a Mt. Wellington National Park. During the year Mr. Eric Coles, of Newry, has continued to foster the idea locally, and the Avon Shire Council, into whose area a part of the proposed park would fall, have adopted a resolution approving the idea in principle. It is hoped that the time may ccme soon when statutory action will transform effort into achievement. The goal is certainly worthy of the effort. The track up the Wellington River from the foot of Bennison Spur to Riggall's Spur has of late years become hazy in places, as it is now little used by cattle. Recent walking parties using it report that there has lately been much timber fall on it, probably due to a severe storm. The Dolodrook track between Mt. Margaret and the Dolodrook River also appears to have suffered.

MT. BULLER: The "Alpine Village" at Cow Camp grows apace. At the end of the summer there were about twenty habitations built or building on the mountain. At the present rate of progress the Howqua River seems soon destined to be the State's largest septic tank drain. The architectural and structural standards demanded by the Forests Commission are aimed at ensuring that the village shall not become a second "Dudley Flats," a fate that few would wish on what is probably our most accessible "real" mountain. The final success of the scheme, from an aesthetic point of view, will probably depend on the ultimate fate of the trees in the area, and the efficient disposal of the inevitable tins and bottles to be discovered each spring after the thaw has removed the snow. We trust that the many fire-hungry huts will not soon cause the mountain top to be denuded of timber.

MT. BOGONG: Last November the Ski Club of Victoria inserted a "Public Notice" in the daily papers to the effect that henceforth the Cleve Cole Memorial Hut would be kept locked, and that intending users would have to arrange for the key at the Melbourne office. In view of this intimation, walkers would do well to reckon on finding the hut closed on future trips across Bogong, although it is understood that the decision was not implemented last summer. It is a pity that the S.C.V. have seen fit to take this action, because, even during summer, the weather on Bogong can occasionally be almost as bad as that which caused the death of the late Cleve Cole; and no matter how well-equipped a party may be, a hut is a boon under such conditions.

43 MT. BAW BAW: "Ski-ing for the million at Mt. Baw Baw" was the press streamer that startled walkers and skiers a few months back. This news item had reference to a report submitted by the West Gippsland Regional Committee concerning a scheme to develop a nine-square-mile snowfield complete with village, roads and planning committee, so that portion of the 9 square miles may he zoned for residential purposes. This all sounds frightfully civilised, and walkers may be excused the hope that many of the "development" plans listed for this and other areas may be placed in the same pigeon-hole as the plans for many of the projects designed to improve Greater Melbourne. The fires of 1939 and the Upper Yarra dam have taken much of the shine off what was once probably Victoria's most popular walk. We know that most present-day skiers will join with us in hoping that any development schemes will be confined to the Mt. Baw Baw area and not allowed to spoil what might be called the "Main Range." We learn that the Erica Division, S.C.V., have constructed a snowpole line from the cairn on Mt. Baw Baw to Mt. Phillack. This should be of great assistance to skiers who desire to go farther afield, and will undoubtedly be helpful to walkers in misty weather.

MT. HOTHAM: Visitors to Hotham Heights Chalet will find a change in managerial faces as our old friend Bill Harris and his wife departed last March for a trip to England and the Continent. During their three years at Hotham they became well-known to many skiers and walkers for their courtesy and ever-ready assistance.

MT. KOSCIUSKO: Of interest to anyone visiting Mt. Kosciusko on a walking trip is the closing of the Chalet at Charlotte's Pass during the summer months. Although at the time of writing it is not known whether the Chalet will be functioning during the 1950-51 summer season, we trust that the management will continue to allow food parcels to be sent there, c/o Caretaker, the same as last summer. If you intend walking through, drop him a line beforehand. A small fee is charged for storage. Inauguration of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Scheme last year will probably see many changes in the Mt. Kosciusko area within the next few years. The manner in which the Kiewa Scheme is changing the face of the Bogong High Plains gives some idea of the changes which we can expect from the much larger Snowy Scheme. Incidentally, have you realised that the correct name is "Snowy Mountains" (not Snowy River), and that the Upper Murrumbidgee will contribute a good share of the water? -·-- "AUSTRALIAN BIRDS IN COLOUR, No. 1," by Charles Barrett (Color­ gravure Publications) is a small,well-illustrated book presenting a "mixed bag" of Australian birds. The accent is on variety, with birds from all parts of the continent; and the book is one of general interest rather than a reference work­ which, of course, is only to be expected at the price (2/-). Many of the coloured illustrations are from the brush of the late Neville Cayley, and worth a place for their artistry alone. 44 THE PYRENEES The Pyrenees are a mountain range on the border between France and Spain, and, as far as many walkers know, that's the end of it. But closer to horne, in Central Victoria, as a matter of fact, we have our own Pyrenees Range, and on a recent walking trip there we had the fortune to have the company of a person who had also experienced walking in the Spanish Pyrenees. Little frequented by walkers, our Pyrenees are a low, undulating range covering an area of about thirty square miles. They can be approached by main roads via Ararat, Avoca, Maryborough or St. Arnaud. The highest point, according to the map, is Mt. Avoca (2,461 feet); although old residents differ, saying that the peak S.E. of the highest is actually Mt. Avoca. Remnants of the old gold-mining road which went over the top are still apparent. The range, although not high, is rugged and has good forests with scattered areas of scraggly stringybark and loose rocks. The outskirts are cleared, hilly grazing and agricultural land, and it is there that man's destructive hand has taken toll, for huge erosion centres have developed. Water is scarce, as this part of Victoria is an area of low rainfall. The land suffers extensively during drought, and when rain follows erosion-spoiled creekbeds offer little or no storage for the water which is passed to the Murray, over two hundred miles away. Wandering through the Pyrenees one can find mud-brick walls, rock chimney stacks and haggard old fruit tress, the latter left behind by the early settlers and now only good for their autumn tonings. These fascinating tombs of the past were the cause of some pleasant lunch-hour discussions on the fortunes and mis­ fortunes of the early settlers, many of them miners seeking both gold and slate. There were also some settlers who left many thousands of their descendants roaming these ranges, for rabbits and foxes abound. Some years ago a rare silver fur fox was shot near Percydale. Its pelt was sent abroad. "Arcadia," just outside Avoca, has a small native fauna and flora park. To the west, over Mt. Avoca, lies Glenpatrick, a pretty little valley tucked away in the hills. Here true Scots and a few aboriginal names are the only ones heard­ Ben Nevis, Ben Major, Ben More, Glenlofty, Lonarck, Warremang, Monambil. A day's walk along the old road from Glenpatrick reveals the beauty of present and bygone days, while northward Warremang has many a beauty spot also. It also has the best water supply in the district. In the early days, Tanwood, five miles east of Warremang and separated from Percydale by the rocky mound of Donkey Hill, had quite a lot of slate quarries. These can be easily found. There are many tunnels and shafts, some hewed straight down into Mother Earth and now filled with water, icy cold and undepthable; many of them made treacherous by sudden drops and foul air. The views of Victoria on a clear day are most extensive and unobstructed by adjacent peaks. The whole range is easily traversed, and no fear of being lost need be felt if a compass is on hand, as walking on any given bearing for six hours at the most should bring one into open farmlands and civilisation. Despite this, however, several pleasant days can be spent on the range without touching any habitation other than a disused timber cutter's shack. An excellent hut (The Oven) is located on Mt. Avoca, as marked on the military map of the area. This hut has a water tank, which is a luxury, as water is difficult to find close to the top of the range. Although off the beaten track for walkers, the Pyrenees are well worth a visit for their different scenery and historic interest. -Fred. Sautter. 45 Griffin

Obtainable at all good Stores

46 The Walker's Burden Choosing a Rucksac

A not-too-serious article on the "evolution" of the rucksac has put me on the spot with a demand to canvas a few people regarding points to be considered when buying a pack. Before commencing, I must say that my experience has been very limited, as, in common with most walkers, my finances do not stretch to buying a new pack each year. Because a pack has to last the average walker for many years, it is imperative that a correct choice be made. However, although limited as to the number of packs owned by the writer, those packs have been carried many miles, and they and those of his companions have been the subject of much discussion during halts beside the track. Before acquiring a pack, a decision should be made as to the major use to be given it. The day-walker only needs a small, light pack, while increasing dis­ tances demand increasing capacity and care in ensuring that the pack suits the wearer. Ski-ing trips demand different properties of the pack, as do occasional motor­ cycle trips. In some cases a pack may be bought with the knowledge that it will be used by more than one person, and in such a case the requirements of each in­ dividual should be considered. Let's discuss some of the points which appear to be important in a pack. Firstly, of course, it must be large enough to stow all the gear required on a trip. This means, "Name your trip" - not always an easy thing to do. A day trip is more than catered for by a standard military pack, obtainable from "disposals" for a few shillings; but for a week-end trip, where tent, sleeping-bag, clothing and food must be carried, such is hardly large enough, and the type usually called a rucksac is necessary. It is easy to be too greedy in regard to pack size. Too large a pack encourages the taking of much superfluous "junk," a habit which can easily grow on cne, despite the most violent protestations that "It can't happen to me -I've got will-power." If any scrub-bashing is done, too wide a pack or one which is too square on top will soon prove a nuisance, as every branch within yards seems to reach out to tug at it. Most packs are a little wider than the wearer at the waist, but beware of the one which is wider at the shoulder. The available sizes are delightfully free of any attempt at standardisation, each manufacturer having his own whims and fancies, but there has been some common acceptance of three general designations - ladies, standard and large. Just why the smallest should be tagged "ladies" is hard to understand, as the ladies seem more clothes conscious than the average male, and they also appear to be just as keenly interested in Napoleon's famous adage, so it is most unlikely that they should require a smaller pack. However, be they lady or gent, the walker whose activities are confined solely to week-ends should be able to get by with a "ladies" pack - but if you are a male, don't tell the other gents of the party. Many walkers use a "ladies" pack on quite long trips, but this means being very economical as regards bulk of food and clothing carried, and is probably not advisable unless you are by inclination a "nuts and raisins" man. The "standard" size pack, as would be expected, is probably the best for the average walker. It is large enough for trips of up to ten days' duration, but not large enough to get in the way. It is easy to provide added capacity for an extreme trip by using "Sheba's" or other containers, slung on the loops provided on the pack, or by strapping the tent on the outside of the pack. 47 Skiers, however, are probably more suited by the "large" size packs, as their demands for space are greater due to the bulky clothing necessary, and aided by the fact that in Victoria most skiers use their packs only when "ski-ing-in" to a hut from the snowline. In addition, hut life allows the use of much gear which the walker would not require or would consider superfluous. The initiate seeking advice from the older hands soon finds that there is a fierce controversy raging between them; framed versus unframed packs. The advocates of unframed packs claim that a pack can be quite heavy enough without carrying an extra pound or two of steel or canework, and that they can be just as comfortable without it. The opposition case is that the frame allows more scientific packing with the weighty articles near the wearer's back, irrespective of their shape or hardness, and that the frame keeps the pack off the back, so helping one to keep cool and assisting in preventing the wearer being chilled during a halt when hot and perspiring. Perhaps just as important as either of these reasons is that the frame applies the weight of the pack to the body, where it can best be borne. After all, no one would suggest placing the wheels of their motor car in the middle instead of at the corners. Of late years, the unframed pack has become unccmmon on touring walks, but those who favour it remain undeterred. When choosing a framed pack, the fit of the frame is most important. It should not ride too high on the back nor be too wide at the waist, but should be just high enough above the hips not to restrict the roll of the pelvis during the action of walking, with the bow supporting the waistband about an inch clear of the hips on each side. The bow should be clear of the waistband with the pack fully-loaded. Many steel frames available at the present time are too flat and touch the shoulder blades when the pack is loaded. Slack waistbands allow the frame to rub the wearer's back, removing skin in the process. Before taking a new pack on a long trip, be sure to use it a number of times when carrying a fair load, as the webbing and straps when new often stretch and need adjustment. Skiers often find a pack, which easily removes from the frame, very convenient, as stowage in car boots is much easier with the frame removed. A pack must be durable. Next to one's boots the pack is perhaps the most important item of equipment. The canvas must be reasonably heavy, and water­ proof. The softer types tend to snag easier when pushing through timber. All seams must be tightly sewn with heavy linen thread and be cut well back from the edge, so preventing the seam pulling open. Leather edging to all flaps and good quality straps and buckles are important. The quality of the leather or webbing used for shoulder straps and waistband, and their fixing to the pack and frame, are major considerations. A large top flap, or a separate storm cover, is essential to cover the mouth of the pack when open, protecting the contents from rain. The frame should be well-made and strong enough to withstand a fair amount of abuse. Welded or brazed joints should be smooth and well reinforced; have nothing to do with soldered joints, as they fail without warning. If a cane pack, see that all frabbing is tight and with no loose ends, and that the cane is not badly kinked around the inside of the bends - some kinking is unavoidable. There are many unorthodox frames made by enthusiasts for their own use. Before building or acquiring any of these they should be closely scrutinised, as in most cases they have been designed with the main object of cutting down on the weight, generally with a consequent reduction in safety margins. Frames constructed of duralumin tubes should be particularly suspect as the material cannot be welded with real success by ordinary techniques and the usual lightweight mechanical joints are generally rather ricketty affairs. However, the main drawback to the use of duralumin is that if bent once or twice the material is likely to crack and render the frame useless­ and light duralumin tubes are easily bent or squashed when being stowed during transport. 48 A fierce discussion can be started easily by introducing the subject of pockets on packs. There are those who like to carry all their gear in separate compart­ ments while others believe in pushing everything as compactly as possible into one large receptacle. Pockets are undoubtedly a great convenience, but their use must be closely watched, as it is very easy to fill them with heavy articles which, due to their weight, should be carried as near the back of the wearer as possible, and not far out in a pocket. A wet tent always presents a poser in this respect. An idea which the writer would like to see adopted is the standardisation of a pocket for the first aid kit. If all walkers could agree to a standard location, a properly designed pocket could be provided, so that the kit could be obtained by anyone with a minimum of delay. There is no reason why individuals cannot adopt the habit of always using a particular pocket for this purpose and having it suitably marked externally, either by appropriate lettering or a small red cross. Finally, there are a number of different types of pack from which to make a choice. Australian favourite is the Bergen type. It is a good all-round pack suitable for a wide range of loads, and, if properly selected, very comfortable for the wearer. It seems best suited for loads up to 50 or 60 lbs., which is about the maximum carried by Australian walkers at the commencement of a tour. Very popular in the colder parts of the world is the Yukon Pack. With it, loads of 100 lbs. and upward are carried with a minimum of effort, but its canvas backpiece is very conducive to sweating, on the part of the wearer, in warm climates such as ours, and causes some discomfort as well as creating the danger of getting a severe chill when resting with the pack off. Its long, rectangular frame is much more awkward than the Bergen when pushing through timber. There has of late been a local outbreak of Canadian Trapper type packs. These are essentially a scaled-down Yukon pack, being little more than half the size of the latter. Their reduced size enables the backpiece to be cut away more than in the Yukon, thus allowing somewhat better air circulation and keeping the wearer cooler. The frame is also shorter and does not get in the way quite so much. They are very comfortable to wear, due to the weight being spread over a large area of the back. In conclusion, I do not consider that the highest priced pack is necessarily the best suited to everyones needs, and pocket. A little shrewd shopping may pay dividends by finding a pack to meet all requirements at proportionately less than the cost of the dearest; but remember, that no matter what the price, it always pay to buy an article that will not let you down, especially one that will not let you down when you're some days' walk from home. But, above all, see that you get a pack which really fits, and don't let yourself be sold one that does not fit when it is full as well as empty." -"O.M."

49 Blackberries A Lecture

Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: I want to tell you some facts about the voluminous bushes and shrubs of berry plants, in this case, blackberries, found in certain suburban mountain ranges, in our present case, the Dandenong Ranges, near Melbourne. The Dandenong Ranges, about thirty miles from Melbourne, were once a densely-timbered mountain range. But to-day I could not classify them as a mountain range; I would rather group them. . . . No, you cannot group them, they are already there. What I meant to say is, I would rather describe them as a kind of hilly, even mountainous . . . tch, that is nonsense again; if something is hilly it can't be even. I mean, they are rather, yes, rather, that's the word, they are rather a more or less steeply undulated suburb of Melbourne. There are still some trees standing, but there are also numerous houses, dance halls, petrol stations and milk bars. There are still people living who can remember when the Dande­ nongs were bushland. There is also proof in the presence of Bushwalking Clubs on Sundays. If you go to Ferntree Gully, Belgrave or Lilydale any Sunday you might encounter some strange characters, clad in shorts, men and women alike, more or less dirty shirts, and with contraptions called rucsacks on their backs. Their feet are shod in heavy boots with about 5 lbs. of hobnails in the soles. I belonged to a bushwalking club when I was in Melbourne. On our trips, which led us to such faraway places as Monbulk and Cockatoo, some of our members even carried compasses with luminous dials, although to find the right direction we only had to ask at the next land agent's around the corner, or drop in at the milk bar 200 yards ahead. I didn't always go with the hushwalkers. Some years ago I had a bad experience with blackberries there when by myself. It all came about . . . about the about I'll tell you about later. From Ferntree Gully I had intended taking the little train which runs on a narrow gauge; in fact, a very narrow gauge up to Gemhrook. But it was only supposed to run. The driver, who squatted in the narrow cab of the engine like a half-opened pocket knife, pulled all available levers. Steam emerged from joints and pipes with a hissing sound like a pressure­ cooker in full blast, and I stepped back behind a stone pillar. There being no result, the passengers were told to take the bus. So I had to alter my plans, but instead of continuing by bus I werit for a walk along the old Belgrave Road. There were blackberries on either side, but at first I did not notice them. From Upwey, a little side track led me into wild bush. I only saw one estate agent's and two milk bars in the next hundred yards! Here I found many large, luscious black­ berries hanging on bushes as large as trees, I decided to pick some, but only had a canvas water bag to carry them in. It was then that I realised that to pick them you should wear an asbestos suit and gloves interwoven with wire gauze. My coat was soon torn, and I took it off without realising that my shirt was even more vul­ nerable. I finished looking like a warrior emerging from a bayonet fight. Back in the train I hung the bag above my seat. Later I had to shift and my seat was taken by a lady in a blue frock . . . and the bag soon began to leak! When I arrived home I discovered that the blackberries were all mushy; so there was nothing for it but to make jam. When a bachelor starts making jam it develops into the greatest mess a landlady ever experienced. That is why I chose to call this lecture "Blackberries: A Danger to Bachelors." In the end I produced about 2 lbs. of jam, but the price does not compare favourably with the commercial product. It cost me, quite apart from train fares, one shirt, £115/-; (Concluded opposite) 50 Some New Map Issues

Some notes of map issues during the last twelve months, and of which we have details, are published below. The Club hopes that the information may prove useful, and that it will serve as a continuous record of maps interesting to walkers.

I. KOSCIUSKO PLATEAU. Melbourne Bushwalkers. ,t inch to 1 mile. A sketch map, the topography of which is based largely on the N.S.W. Lands Department "Snow Lease" map. Its compilation was undertaken so that we might have a clear and legible map for use in the field, details of tracks, relief, peaks, etc., of interest to walkers being unobscured by extraneous detail. Originally compiled in 1949, it has been amended in some areas as at Christmas last. Blueprint Map. Date of Issue (B) July, 1950.

2. GRAMPIANS. Victorian Railways. 1 inch to 1 mile. A re-issue of the pre-war Grampians map, with some of the details brought up to date. The new Mt. William track is shown and details of roads and peaks amended. Date of issue, 1948.

3. BULLER-COBBLER-HOWITT-MACDONALD. Melbourne Bushwalkers. 1 inch to 1 mile. As it has become necessary to re-draw the King, Howqua, Jamieson, Macallister Divide map, the opportunity has been taken to make the scale the standard inch to the mile and to give it a more apt name. Locations o{ many of the main peaks have been checked, and much supplementary data added. Blueprint Map. Date of Issue (C), August, 1949.

4. WILSON'S PROMONTORY. Melbourne Bushwalkers. 1 inch to 1 mile. This map covers the whole of the "foot" of the Prom. Although only a sketch map (and not contoured like the military maps of the area) it is very useful, as it is only a single sheet, and in addition names most of the physical features of interest. Date of Issue, 1949.

NOTE.-The Club welcomes details of new map issues of interest to walkers for publication in these columns.

BLACKBERRIES [concluded] singlet, 3/6, coat repair, 15/-; dry cleaning, lady's frock, 10/-; cleaning landlady's carpets, £2; and two tea-towels (I found nothing else to press the juice through), 6/6; total cost, £5. I forgot to mention that my landlady gave me notice because of my black­ berry upheaval. So, if you are a bachelor, you had better stick to buying blackberry jam in tins from the next grocery shop. -Willie Baxter. 51 "Waldheim"

BAYSWATER Swiss Alpine Village ,....,.._""',... . ··-~· -w .....,.,. -~~~tS"';;~ •·rr- ·

BIG ACREAGE including Large Pine Forest and Delightful Hill and Forest Walks. Shady House Garden. Own Farm Produce. Home Cooking. Dinners, Morning and Afternoon Teas are Always Provided for Motorists. Devonshire Tea* our Specialty ~ WEEK-END RENDEZVOUS FOR ALL TOURISTS ...... ++++++++++++++++ A Place True to Name, Restful and Satisfying. Mr. & Mrs. Hof* Busch, Prop. Phone: 62 BAYSWATER ~ ~u Jtmas ~alk ~ ACROSS THE BORDER TO MT. KOSCIUSKO

BENAMBRA - MARENGO - THE COBBERAS QUAMBATT - MT. PILOT - MT. KOSCIUSKO GEEHI - KHANCOBAN Approx. Distance: 115 Miles .

Most people approach Mt. Kosciusko, Australia's• highest peak, by means of the motor road from Jindabyne. Although some walkers ascend the spurs from the west, relatively few have traversed the Great Dividing Range from eastward of Benambra, in Victoria, across the infant Murray to the top of Kosciusko itself. This trip, described in detail below, has been scheduled for nine walking days, but this is really rushing it a bit. There are some interesting features en route which easily justify some dalliance on the way, and some of these have been noted in parenthesis. The area south of Kosciusko is one of pleasant green valleys, open timber and running waters, with frequent camp sites, so that it is by no means necessary to do the stages as set out. However, the country is amongst the most remote in Victoria, so that any party doing the trip should not underestimate it. Transport is by train to Bairnsdale, thence bus to 01neo, whence a service car can be picked up to Benambra. The train and bus may be booked at the Government Tourist Bureau, but to ensure a seat on the service car it is best to write to Mr. W. Spencer, Benambra, who operates the service (he is sometimes able also to run people out to Marengo). It is necessary to stay in Benambra overnight and go out to Marengo in the morning. A hotel booking at Benambra is worthwhile, as it is a popular place in holiday periods. Marengo Station, where the actual walking starts, is about twenty miles from Benambra, and is owned by Mr. Ern. McCallum, who resides in Benambra and has greatly assisted the Club on its travels in the area. It is from Marengo (no permanent inhabitant) that the description commences. FIRST DAY: Benambra-Marengo-Brumby Trap. Road: 20 miles approx.; Walk: 9! miles. Marengo should be reached about II a.m. if transport has been arranged from Benambra, so a 9!-mile walk is strenuous enough. From sliprails at edge of paddock the track is well­ defined as it follows up a shallow gully (N.E.). In about half mile, cross creek coming from right - good spot for lunch. Continue up gully on track for ! mile, when track turns right (E.) as it climbs more steeply, and soon crosses a well-formed disused road. Cross road and continue uphill to saddle CH miles). The road which was crossed is the Tin Mine Road, and it is joined again in the saddle, although now less well-formed. Follow it through saddle, then N.E. on W. fall of Limestone Valley. It is well-defined all the way to the Limestone Creek (River) about 2 miles from the saddle. About I mile below the saddle, just after a hairpin bend where the track swings temporarily to the south, first views of The Cobberas may be seen to the north-east. A hut will be found where the track drops to the river flats. Continue on track to S. past hut for 200 yards and cross stream on well-made bridge as track does an elbow turn. The track is well-defined as it sidles up slope, first to N.E. then wanders S.E. and again N.E., until about 4 miles from the bridge it approaches the top of the Main Divide at a grassy flat. The actual top of the Divide is a low, grassy ridge a few hundred yards to the right through open timber Although it is the "Tin Mine Road," the track here becomes hazy as it crosses a couple of grassy areas, but is well-defined in between with occasional timber culverts over little watercourses. Mter following the track E. for a short distance, with the rounded top of the Divide on the right, a good foot track will be seen easing off to the right (S.E.) to cross the ridge of the Divide. This is the track to Native Cat Flat, but keep on road (crossing small culvert in few yards) as it goes generally E. and m 2 miles comes to creek with brumby trap at left on near bank. Good camp. (NOTE.-"Caverneers" and those with time to spare will find the Limestone Creek caves of interest, although they are not very large. To visit them, do not cross the Limestone Creek at the bridge near the hut, but go downstream on left (W.) bank along river flats for about 1 mile. Then cross to right bank and in ! mile reach some huts. From huts continue downstream, crossing a gully to sloping bank beyond with rock outcrops. Entrance to one cave is in this bank. It is unmarked, and about the size of a large wombat hole. A second cave may be located by continuing downstream to a fence which crosses the stream. Cross stream on near side of fence to cliffs. Turn left for few yards to fall of rock. Cave has low arched entrance with small pool. There is reputedly a third cave which we have not located. 53 The old Limestone homestead is about 200 yards below the fence. A pad goes E.S.E. from near the homestead and, in about three miles, picks up the Tin Mine Road just before the Native Cat track mentioned previously. The road is obscure in places, but if missed it should be remembered that it is good until it commences to parallel the top of the Divide and that even here it is generally good through the timber, but poor in the open areas.) SECOND DAY: Brumby Trar-Surveyor's Creek-The Big Cobbera-Surveyor's Creek 10 Miles. Continue on track generally N. to N.E. In about 2! miles Bully's Creek is reached with view to right upstream of rocky top above timber. There is a small cairn on the track about 150 yards after crossing the stream, and a triangular open flat between track and stream. From the cairn the bearing of the rocky top just mentioned is 110 deg. (approx. E.S.E.). The cairn was erected by Club members a few years ago as a marker for what appears to be the most expeditious route to the Big Cobbera. Make camp here and either have early lunch or take something with you so that remainder of the day may be spent on trip to the Cobberas. From cairn, cross stream, climbing to rocky top (110 deg.) in about 45 minutes. From this top the Big Cobbera (En-a-no) will be seen to the E. across a deep valley. There is a connecting saddle to the left at the head of the valley. Proceed along rocky top to N. until opposite ridge connecting to Big Cobbera. No. 2 Cobbera is ahead, but turn right and drop to saddle (water) then climb to Big Cobbera with two large rocky bluffs to left. The actual top (6,030 ft.) is about a mile to the South along sloping top, with old trig. point beyond and a few feet lower. Retrace steps to camp.

THE BIG COBBERA ("En-a-no") - 6,030 FT. G. Coutts.

THIRD DAY: Surveyor's Creek-Quambatt-Mt. Pilot. 14 Miles. Leaving camp at cairn, track commences first leg of S-bend to top of ridge on left, where it turns right and becomes ill-defined as it drops to Barry's Plain Creek in about :l- mile. Keep to line of track when it disappears and cross creek on well-preserved log road bridge (bridge is hard to see until close to it). Follow well-defined track from bridge sidling to top of next low ridge, then through open timber with glimpses of rocky top of No. 3 Cobbera ahead. About 1 i miles from bridge track dies in a small snow-plain. Here keep to right side of plain and find track holding level (approx. N.), but avoid pad which proceeds level for about 600 yards, then zig-zags very steeply some hundreds of feet down to a tributary of Limestone Creek. At 2! miles from bridge, Rest Home Creek is met, and beyond creek the track is deeply side-cut and proceeds straight ahead with steep drop on left to deep valley. The Limestone-Quambatt Divide is crossed 1 mile from Rest Home Creek as track turns right, and in further ! mile crosses heads of some streams, to then head N. again with some views of Mt. Pilot ahead, until at 2! miles from Rest Home Creek it turns right and in 100 yards drops on to extensive flats with Quambatt Creek, running from east to west. A stone chimney beyond the creek marks the site of the Quambatt hut (6 miles from camp). Crossing the creek which flows past the hut takes one from Victoria into New South Wales, as the creek is actually the Murray River. From Quambatt the track is obscure for some distance. From chimney, go upstream for about i mile, then proceed N.E. up slope through timber and the track should be picked up about 300 yards above creek and well-defined as it goes E. to a sharp bend from where

54 the Cobbera may be seen to S.S.W. Track now climbs gradually. As it completes a large horseshoe bend about 2! miles from Quambatt, the track turns from W . to N., and in next 2! miles crosses a number of creek heads to reach two creeks about twenty yards apart, each with a small timber bridge (11 miles from camp). A fair camp site can be found here, and camping here presents a double chance at climbing the Pilot, as there should be time to do it either after arrival or early next morning - maybe both! To climb Pilot, proceed up road for ! mile to obvious saddle, then turn right (E.) along ridge, skirting to saddle south of the Little Pilot. Here turn south to summit, about one mile from saddle. Return to camp. FOURTH DAY: Mt. Pilot-Tin Mine-Cascades. 14i Miles. Continue N. along road for l mile to saddle. Track remains well-defined as it drops slowly from saddle to Tin Mine Creek in 4!: miles, heading a number of gullies on the way. Cross creek, then second branch of creek in few yards, latter at gravel crossing. Follow pad which turns a little left at crossing and goes over flat ridge ahead, dropping to Tin Mine huts in less than a mile. One of the huts is occupied by Mr. Charlie Carter, who lea.ds a solitary life there gouging for tin.

MT. KOSCIUSKO View from South, near N. Ramshead. J. Smith. (For those with time to spare and prepared to do a fair amount of " scrub-bashing " the falls on Tin Mine Creek are well worth visiting. They are about 1!: miles from the 'camp but the trip requires half a day. Mr. Carter will give details of the best route.) ' NOTE.-The "Melbourne Walker," 1946, describes a trip to Tin Mine, visiting much the same places but by somewhat different routes. The Tin Mine Road terminates at the huts, and as the Great Divide between here and Cascades is a wide, flat "ridge" with a number of irrelevant pads here and there, the correct path is not always obvious. Leave the huts to W.S.W. over footbridge and on good pad. In approx. 2 miles the track comes to open flats which branch to left and right. This is repeated, but each time keep to left-hand branch, until open space narrows to about 150 yards, and has distinct slope to stream, with pad about 15 feet above stream on each rise. (While following flats upstream a number of tin gougers' trenches may have been noticed crossing the stream. ) Here a small open valley goes square to the left (W.), with good pad on right (N.) fall going into the timber. Ignore this pad and follow a fainter one straight ahead and sidling away from main valley on right, and soon come to lightly timbered area with a number of pads easing away to the left, but here keep to right-hand pads (i.e., straight ahead) and in about 200 yards come to a mining lease peg (Evans'). Take good pad a few yards to the right of the peg and continue ahead. Good view of Pilot back to the south. In 3 /Sths mile pad is dropping slowly and soon comes out overlooking a small open valley about 200 ft. deep, ahead and 55 to left (N.W.). Pad can be seen climbing out far side after crossing creek. Follow pad to flat above valley and proceed on good pad (W.N.W.) to cross a south-flowing creek in ! mile. Follow pad ahead and parallel to stream, which is on right. In 1 mile pad is on flat with stream still on right, but pad now disappears as stream turns away to right (N.). Turn left and about 150 yards from stream pick up fair pad (good at first) which goes ahead through fallen timber and soon starts to turn right (N.) following low ridge forming watershed of stream which is now some distance away on right. At l mile from flat, cross creek head which falls to left (W.) and commence sidling climb up opposite bank. Track now sidles continually through timber and on the western fall of the Divide. In l mile a good creek is crossed and in a further ! mile three creeks close together. After crossing three or four gullies in the next mile, the track becomes obscure on top of a small knob with two gullies ahead. Cross one gully and track will be found turning right up low spur to reach a snow­ gum saddle in about 600 yards. From saddle, pad drops E. to N.E. through trees to large open valley - Valley of the Cascades. Follow pad to left (N.W.) on edge of timber to hut hidden by low knob about ! mile after leaving trees - 9 miles from Tin Mine. There is a large dirt crossing opposite point where track comes into the open, but do not drop to stream - keep to edge of trees on south side of valley. FIFTH DAY: Cascades-Dead Horse Gap. 7 Miles. Dead Horse Gap should be reached easily before lunch. This provides a half-day spell and a fresh start next morning; a very desirable point, as the next stage must be quite n strenuous one, and there is much to see around Kosciusko if the weather is favourable. From Cascades hut, go downstream for ! mile, then cross creek and continue down­ stream for further a mile until pad is seen turning right and sidling up right fall of spur. At i mile from creek track goes to top of ridge, and in further l mile spur joins Bob's Ridge spur on left. Track rises on crest of Bob's Ridge, which is a spur to the Main Divide, reaching the latter in about H miles. Here track swings to left (N.W.) along Divide, which here is fairly well-defined, dropping gradually to timber on the left and more steeply to the Crackenback Valley on the right.

Two miles after reaching Main Divide a broad, shallow valley is met and track eases a little to the left to cross it (valley falls to right (E.). In dip, track turns toward right (N.E.) and for a while follows the flat ridge on far (N.) side with the next valley to the north on the left. The latter valley is that of Dead Horse Creek, and in about a mile track drops steeply to the left (N.) about 300 ft. to fence, with saddle of Dead Horse Gap beyond. A fence, with gate, goes N .-S. along the Divide in the saddle, and there is a cruciform frame (part of a killing-frame) visible easily from either E. or W. The hut is a few yards N.W. of the gate. If mist should cause the track to be lost, it is only necessary to continue N. as the gap is very pronounced, and the Dead Horse Creek on one side and the Thredbo River on the other, both flow in well-defined valleys right from the gap, and may be followed upstream to the gap. Views to Mts. Gibbo and Pinnabar down Dead Horse Creek. SIXTH DAY: Dead Horse Gap-Mt. Kosciusko-Charlotte's Pass. 12-15 Miles. From Dead Horse Gap a good pad drops steeply N.E. to cross northern tributary of the Crackenback (or Thredbo), Bogong Creek, at rocky crossing. After steep climb for a few hundred feet, track settles to N. direction as it climbs steadily with the rocks of the South Ramshead across the valley on the left. About 3 miles from Dead Horse the grade becomes very easy as the timber is left behind. The pad remains well-defined as it continues across the open plateau, now with the Ramshead itself to the left. A half mile after drawing level with the Ramshead some large rocks mark the top of the Ramshead Range, near the North Ramshead, and as these are approached, the flat, conical peak of Kosciusko arises ahead, for most of the year with the snow ridge of the Cootapatamba Drift flanking it. From the rocks the track drops as it sidles the hills on the right with a relatively flat area below on the left. As Kosciusko itself is approached Lake Cootapatamba (Lake May) will be seen on its right, with the Rawson Pass (Cootapatamba Gap) beyond. Pad goes along east shore of lake and meets motor road in saddle. Turn left to summit and cairn (7,308 ft.), 6! miles from Dead Horse. (For those desiring to save a day, there would be enough of the day left to allow them to reach Geehi before dark if prepared to sacrifice a trip around "the tops." See eighth day's notes for details.) From summit, return to gap and continue down road to Seaman's Hut ( 6,636 ft., 2! miles). The hut is small, and provides very limited accommodation, especially as there is no timber in the area, and the only firewood is that brought up for use during the winter. From Seaman's the road may be followed through Charlotte's Pass (6 miles) to the Chalet just beyond, or the road may be short-cut by going direct from Seaman's to the Pass, crossing the upper Snowy River en route.

56 Camping in the Kosciusko area is complicated by the complete absence of timber. Below the Chalet the slopes are timbered and provide some camp sites, but the Main Range is devoid of anything like firewood. There is a hut (the "Red" hut) on the main road adjacent to the Chalet. (It is now painted yellow.) During the holiday season there is usually little space left for anyone arriving at the hut late in the afternoon - people often camp there for days at a time - and there is really no adjacent camp site. The most practicable scheme is to proceed east down the main road to Spencer's Creek I mile past the Chalet turn-off, and then follow the pad along the west bank of the creek. (There is a large, new palatial "hut" beside the road at the creek, but it is kept locked). There are some good camp sites about I mile from the road. If a hut is desired, Pound's Creek hut may be reached by continuing down Spencer's Creek until pad drops to the Snowy River about 2 miles from road. Here leave pad and cross slope to some large rocks which provide a crossing of Spencer's Creek about 200 yards from Snowy confluence. Head downstream parallel to Snowy, and Pound's Creek hut is about 400 yards from Spencer's Creek and near edge of timber. NOTE.-The weather on Kosciusko can be very changeable, and if good on arrival at Cairn it may be thought advisable to see as much of the tops as possible in case of bad weather next day. This means making a long day even longer, and must be done with discretion. If decided upon, proceed north from cairn and leave road to cross to bridle track, which can be seen 1 m•le away. Follow bridle track for about I mile to Northcote Pass between Mueller's Peak and Mt. Northcote, with Lake Albina below. Here leave packs and go around, or over, Mueller's Peak (the south Hank is the easiest way) to saddle beyond, then follow ridge to Mt. Townsend CH miles from Kosciusko) afterwards retracing steps to Northcote Pass. From Pass, follow bridle track north with Mt. Northcote on right. At H miles from Northcote Pass just after passing Mt. Lee and with track on ridge in saddle, Club Lake can be seen below to right by going over a few feet. Continue on track, turning right (N.E.) after short climb and Carruther's Peak is on left with track making for Blue Lake ahead. A track junction is reached just before the lake. The right-hand track goes to the Snowy River crossing and Charlotte's Pass via Foreman's Hut (now defunct), and the left-hand track goes to the Blue Lake and then to Hedley's Turn, from where a path may be easily chosen to Charlotte's Pass. Either route may be followed, depending on the time available. The extra distance covered by this detour, as against following the road from the summit to Charlotte's Pass, is about 5 miles, but it is much hillier. It is a very time· consuming track, as there is much to see - and photograph - along the way. SEVENTH DAY: The Main Range. Approx. 16 Miles. At least a day should be allowed for a tour of "the tops." Unless it has been possible to do the extended trip from the summit (as described in the footnote to the sixth day) cross Snowy River at ford where Spencer's Creek track meets river and head approx. N.W. up steep open slope to skirt to north of Little Twynam, thence make east to trig. point on Mt. Twynam (7,203 ft.) about 2! miles from ford. Follow ridge from trig. W. then S.W. with Blue Lake below on left, to Carruther's Peak. From Carruther's Peak drop to bridle track and so visit Blue Lake. Return south along bridle track, passing Club Lake on the left, and then sidling around Mt. Lee, and so on, past Mt. Northcote with Lake Albina below on right until Northcote Pass is reached between Mt. Northcote and Mueller's Peak. Just through Pass leave track and go along ridge past Mueller's Peak to Mt. Townsend (7,24I ft.). From Mt. Townsend the views are magnificent, with the Hats of the Geehi nestling at its feet a mile below. From Townsend, either retrace steps to bridle track and follow it to Kosciusko, or drop down and cross the Wilkinson Valley direct to Kosciusko. If time is available, a further variant is to continue south along the ridge from Townsend, traverse the Abbot Range, and from there cross the Wilkinson Valley to Kosciusko. This route would provide a useful reconnaisance of the approaches to Hannel's Spur down which the next day's walk leads to Geehi. If Townsend, etc., has been visited the previous day, there should be time to include Mt. Tate on the way to Twynam. Cross the Snowy at Spencer's Creek ford, but proceed N.E. over low hill to Pound's Creek in about i mile. Cross creek and go up spur opposite gradually turning north on faint pad near crest of spur. Mt. Tate is a rocky knob at head of spur, and as it is approached, the pad, now good swings right across its north Hank toward Consett Stephen Pass. Leave pad at most convenient point to make to top of Tate (6,770 ft., approx: 4! miles from ford). From here pick way over rocky tops south to Mt. Twynam (8! miles from ford) then to Carruther's Peak and the Blue Lake, and so by the bridle track back to the Snowy River crossing and camp.

Both these trips are strenuous "up-and-down" ones and cover about I6 miles; but they represent the only practicable way of visiting the main range, due to the previously mentioned 57 dearth of camp sites and timber. Due to the open country and extensive views, short cuts may be easily worked out en route as desired. EIGHTH DAY: Charlotte's Pass-Hannel's Spur-Geehi. 14 Miles. From camp return toward summit of Kosciusko, either by road or upstream along Snowy, Before reaching summit, turn right to the bridle track which goes through Northcote Pass, but leave track about l mile from top of Kosciusko and drop left (W.) to floor of Wilkinson Valley, following pad along floor of valley fox appxox. I mile, then leaving valley and skirting south end of Abbot Range (direction a little N. of W.). Skirting range, the pad turns right and becomes prominent as it leads north along the western slope of the Abbot Range. Track later becomes obscure, but about 1 mile from south end of range, and after crossing a small flat area, a position is reached which is just below the Abbot Peak with Mt. Townsend visible ahead (N.N.E.). The top of Hannel's Spur is now on the left, and is distinguished by three grey, rocky knobs. It is the last spur before the saddle between the Abbot Peak and Townsend. From this point the track descends steeply to the timber-line. It is indefinite in the open, but well-defined in timber. The Geehi flats can be seen below, and track follows ridge a little on the north fall. After about ! mile of descent, Byatt's Camp is reached (poor camp site) and after further steep drop, Moira's Flat (camp site). Grade is now steep all the way to Geehi flats (8 miles from Kosciusko). On reaching flats, cross Geehi Creek above junction with Swampy Plains River and follow latter until the pad, now a major bridle track, fords the river. Geehi hut can be seen from ford about ! mile down stream. There are a number of private huts, but Geehi hut is always open. There are plenty of camp sites. NOTE.-The streams in this area are swift, cold and, after bad weather, deep. They should be crossed with caution. It is often necessary to wait a day or two when they have been swollen by rain in their catchments. NINTH DAY: Geehi-Khancoban Post Office-Khancoban Ford. 15 Miles. A choice of two routes offers during the early stages, both by well-defined tracks. (a) Via Bear's Flat. Go downstream, crossing and recrossing the river a number of times, until a crossing is reached 75 yards above junction with Bogong Creek, which is then crossed to track beyond. (b) Track is picked up 150 yards north o£ hut, just through wire fence. It is well­ defined, and remnants of a telephone wire can be found. The track follows range parallel to river for most of the way along the western slope, then along the ridge before dropping on to the Bear's Flat track before it crosses Bogong Creek. After Bogong Creek is crossed the track is a bridle path "highway," and cannot be missed as it climbs to the top of the Geehi Walls and then descends to the road. Turn right along road to Khancoban P.O., and to Khancoban Ford in further six miles.

TRANSPORT TO MELBOURNE. The nearest public transport is the Corryong-Albury bus, which can be picked up at Towong, or the Corryong-Wodonga bus (at Corryong). The milk-truck driver often obliges with a lift between Khancoban and Corryong (about 20 miles), or arrangements can some­ times be made by ringing the mailman, Mr. Jeff Edwards, of Corryong, from the Khancoban P.O. Both bus services leave Corryong early in the morning, and do not run every day. Enquiries should be made before leaving Melbourne.

MAP REFERENCE: North of the Victorian border the N.S.W. Lands Dept. "Snow Leases-Sheet l-in., or "Mt. Kosciusko" (M.B.W.) are adequate. South of the border there is, unfor­ fortunately, no complete map, although the Club will be pleased to allow anyone to peruse draft maps now being prepared by it.

NOTES AMENDED TO JANUARY, 1950.

58 ~:emi!IB::tBM!liE!I!IB!I!It4!B!I::4Et41HIN!IIl&::4EN!t41liiH!lll:41lii!IHI!I:41!1:4111'. IMAPS :·: I AT OUR NEW ADDRESS:: CHART HOUSE~·= 372·378 POST OFFICE PLACE, CITY ;.: iiii ~FULL RANGE m ~ ~IN STOCK 1;: ~ One Mile to One Inch, Four Miles to One Inch ~ ~ m ;a~ i JOHN DONNE & SON~

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MT. WILLS - THE LONG SPUR - MT. BOGONG TAWONGA

An increasingly popular approach to Victoria's highest peak is via the Long Spur. From the north-eastern corner of the Bogong massif a long, high-level spur runs easterly to Mt. Wills, forming the northern watershed of the upper reaches of the Big River. Except for a drop to a saddle to the west of Mt. Wills, the ridge provides a relatively level and very pleasant walking route. Mt. Wills lies just west of the Omeo Highway, which runs from Tallangatta through Mitta Mitta and Glen Wills to Omeo, and is a few miles on the Tallangatta side of Glen Wills. Leaving Melbourne on an evening train to Albury, and spending the night there, the Omeo bus can be caught next morning (but does not run every day, so check before you leave Melbourne). From Tallangatta the highway runs south to Mitta Mitta, where the bus stops for lunch. Continuing from Mitta Mitta, have the bus driver drop you a little south of the 41-mile post (mileposts are numbered from Omeo to Tallangatta), where the road crosses a spur which drops to the left (N.E.) and where there is a signpost on the left mJrked 'Steep Grade." The bus usually reaches this spot about 3 to 3.30 p.m. NOTE.-In prolonged misty weather there would be little profit in climbing Mt. Wills, and it would be easier to continue in bus to Big River bridge, thence going west along river and picking up a good cattlemen's track which goes up a spur north to the main ridge of the Long Spur. FIRST DAY: As most of the day will have been spent travelling, there is little time to do anything but climb over Mt. Wills to a suitable camp site. From the signpost on the road the rocky top of Mt. Wills is visible approx. S.W., and about a thousand feet above the road. Go straight from road toward base of rocky top, at first through open country with a little scrub higher up. There are some old hut ruins about 80 yards from the road. Odd pads will be found during the climb, but no track. When near foot of rocks, work to left (S.) and spiral to saddle between two knobs. The trig. point (5,700 ft.) is just ahead. The climb from road will probably occupy about two hours. (NOTE.-In misty weather, with summit invisible from road, climb W.S.W. from sign­ post until rocks are met, then work up rocks to trig. point.) From the summit the whole of the Long Spur can be easily seen (if no mist) to W.N.W., and the route along it to Mt. Bogong scanned. Bogong Gap at the head of the Big River and south of Mt. Bogong will be seen approx. west. Leaving the trig. point, go toward a rocky knob which is about 100 yards N., but in saddle before reaching knob look for blazes running approx. N.W. past knob. Follow blazes through open snow-gums to a fence about ! hour's walk from trig. Keep to blazes, and in a further ;\- hour is another fence running E. and W. (These distances are hard to estimate, but the times given should prove sufficient guide.) The blazes disappear, and a track running N. and S. crosses the fence. DON'T follow track, but go through fence and immediately turn left and follow along on the north side of it until it turns south. There leave it and go S.W. for about 30 yards to a track which will be found running approx. N.W. Follow this track, generally N.W., with some old blazes to a spring in a patch of low scrub on left. Camp can be made here. SECOND DAY: From camp, continue along track, which soon begins to descend spur. Track becomes well-defined as grade steepens, and in about half an hour a more level green patch should be reached. The track apparently should leave this patch between S.W. and W.N.W., but has proved elusive despite much searching. If not found, take ill-defined track which leaves a little E. of S., swinging to S.W. Remain on this track until it swings toward the S.E. (if not lost before then), and scrub-push to bottom of gully on right toward the fairly clear slopes of the Long Spur, which can be seen ahead across the gully. (Since leaving camp the idea

60 has been to reach the saddle on the ridge to west of Mt. Wills. The "ridge" in the saddle is very flat, especially on the south fall, and the aim should be to cross in the open area just to the south of the actual saddle, and only a few feet below.) The drop from the camp site, mentioned above, to the gully just south of the saddle is about 1,500 ft. In misty weather a course between W.S.W. and W. from the camp should come out near the saddle, but do not cross on north fall; go south to just beyond saddle as shown by flow of water. From here climb west up side of spur (about 500 ft.) when good track will be found on crest. This is the Long Spur track from Big River. Go uphill (right) through open timber and track sidles to left of some knobs when ridge divides. Follow track to ridge straight ahead. About 1! hours after first reaching track the ridge climbs more steeply and goes through a patch of wattles (water in gully at left). There are now many gullies with water, often with cattle pads leading off ridge. The grade eases a little as a clear forest area is reached, and the spur broadens. There is some fallen timber, but the track is easily followed. A steep-sided section of the spur soon follows, and at about 45 minutes from the steep climb a cattlemen's hut will be reached - Hodgkinson's Hut - water about 300 yards to E.S.E. at small soak. Avoid spur to south and continue line along ridge on good track. In l hour a rocky knob is reached from which Mt. Bogong may be seen through the trees to W.N.W. In clear weather the cairn on Bogong and the ridge ahead may be seen. From knob, track holds ridge for some time, but then sidles to left of a knob and drops slightly to pass two springs, about l hour from knob. This is a convenient place at which to end day's walk.

THE LONG SPUR K. Alexander. THIRD DAY: From site of camp spur is wide and grassy and track may be lost in the snowgrass, but make to top of ridge and main track will be found, fairly well-defined. A prominent rocky knob is soon reached, from the top of which the Mulhausen Spur may be seen ahead and running to the north. The junction with the Mulhausen track is soon reached in a saddle between two rocky knobs, and coming in from the right (N.E.). There is a sign­ post here marked "Mitta Mitta," and the point is about two hours' walk from the camp springs. From here to the Cleve Cole hut is about 2! to 3 hours' walking. The ridge continues generally east and now becomes a narrow, rocky razorback­ similar to the Cathedral Range, Buxton. Track sidles to right until the ridge broadens again, when it goes to the top. From here the spur is broad and undulating (and exposed), but 61 SNOWPOLE:~ • • • • Tt'I.AC.'!

l1

C1) 1>:1

I .....i .J i i l 01' M11...CS. 5CAL!t: WALK~ the track is definite as it approaches the Bogong massif. Looking back, an excellent panoramic view is obtained, with Mt. Wills and the Big River Valley on the right and the clearing of Glen Valley in the distance. In clear weather Mt. Kosciusko is easily visible to the E.N.E. When the spur meets the snowgrass flats of Mt. Bogong an embryo pole line gives the direction to Maddison's hut - "Hotel Aertex" (now practically uninhabitable), which will be reached half a mile from the end of the spur. From hut, follow pads which swing toward west following up north fall of valley, and in approx. ! mile cross stream, avoiding track on right. Cleve Cole hut is about ! mile further on at head of Camp Valley. Hut and tall radio mast are visible from some distance. Although the hut may be locked, Camp Valley provides a good finishing point for the day's walk. To visit Howman's Falls.-From Aertex hut, follow down small stream to junction with main stream in about 200 yards, then go downstream following right bank for about 300 yards past small cascades to top of falls. Return to track below "Aertex." FOURTH DAY: From Cleve Cole hut the way is one well-known to most walkers. Follow snow-poles to N.W. to cairn (6,508 ft.) in 2! miles. I£ time permits, a visit to the West Peak is well worth-while, especially for its extensive views of the Upper Kiewa area. The cairn on the West Peak can be seen to the S.W. from the n1ain cairn. To reach it, follow snowpo]e line for about 1! miles until poles turn south on Hooker Plateau. Leave poles and go a little south of west to reach cairn about 2! miles from main peak. Return to main peak. From cairn on main peak take snowpole line to north, dropping over edge of plateau to summit hut in about 200 yards (this is a bivouac hut only - no water). Snow poles now drop STEEPLY to track which skirts to right of the twin knobs, Castor and Pollux, and then to timber line. Track continues steeply and well-defined through timber to Bivouac Hut ( 4,000 feet) in Ll- miles. Leaving hut, track continues well-defined and dropping steeply until a few hundred feet above the bottom of the valley, when it turns left across spur for about 200 yards, before once more dropping. to creek at road crossing with small bridge. From bridge, follow road west along Mountain Creek to Tawonga in about 8 miles. A daily bus leaves Tawonga at an unearthly hour in the morning.

MAP REFERENCE: The Ski Club of Victoria map of Mt. Bogong covers most of this area, but unfortunately the Mt. Wills area is not included. The sketch map on page 6 2 will be found useful, and the Club has a fuller sketch map of the area which may be perused by interested parties. NOTES REVISED TO APRIL, 1950.

A Saturd&J! Walk WHITTLESEA - TOOROURONG RESERVOIR JACK'S CASCADES 15 Miles.

There are no Sunday trains to Whittlesea, so unless you travel by private car, this walk is best suited to Saturday.

From Whittlesea station, turn right along road beyond, and after crossing bridge and aqueduct, turn left and go through town on main road. Follow road as it turns right and then left, to turn right again beyond town as it becomes Kinglake road. Remain on road, keeping left at acute road junction, and in l mile turn left down good gravel road. The aqueduct is crossed, and approx. l t miles from Kinglake road another road comes from left, but continue straight ahead through gate, following aqueduct to Tourourong Reservoir in further Ll- miles. (This area belongs to the M.M.B.W., and no fires may be lit except in the fireplaces provided.)

A pleasant half-hour can be spent circumnavigating the reservoir, either before or after lunch, 63 From fireplaces, follow earth road east along Jack's Creek to Smith's Gate (2! miles), avoiding roads to right. About 160 yards from gates, after crossing small bridge, turn left on foot track along creek. Follow track to foot of Jack's Cascades in l mile. This track goes through one of the best fern gullies still extant within many a mile of Melbourne. From Jack's Cascades, either return by outward route or take road from head of Cascades back to gate. Alternatively, continue upstream along aqueduct for 200 yards to wide lire· break. Turn right and follow break, which, incidentally, is here along top of Great Divide­ to Kinglake West (Tommy's Hut) in about 3 miles of pleasant flat walking. Return to Whittlesea by road (8 miles). NOTE.-Until recently a permit has been necessary from the M.M.B.W. before entering the water reserve. We understand that they are at present waiving this requirement for people visiting the Cascades, but it must be stressed that strict adherence to the Board's rule is imperative. MAP REFERENCE: Military Maps of Yan Yean and King!ake. NOTES AMENDED TO APRIL, 1950.

WHAT BIRD IS THAT? Main source of reference to most walkers, when endeavouring to identify birds seen on the track, is Neville Cayley's book of the above title, and it is with regret that they will have heard last March of the death of the author. Tyro ornitho­ logists - the category to which most walkers find they unfortunately belong - are often more confused than enlightened by the wordy descriptions typical of many reference books, but the excellent illustrations in Mr. Cayley's books often enable the letterpress to be sidestepped. His memorial is his books; and by that token bushwalkers will remember him as long as there is the bush in which to walk.

LATROBE LIBRARY It is our experience that most walkers soon develop a lively interest in early Victorian history, probably inspired in the first place by a desire to know the genesis of the tracks over which they walk and the evolution of the outdoor scene about them. Such being the case, all will have noted with pleasure the Premier's announcement last March of the creation of a Latrobe Library, the purpose of which will be to specialise in the collection of Australiana, with emphasis on Victoriana. It is being established to celebrate the centenary of parliamentary government in Victoria, and will be conducted on similar lines to Sydney's famous Mitchell Library. Maybe "See you at the Latrobe" will one day become another standard farewell after a walking trip!

RECENT PUBLICATIONS Two recent publications from the Commonwealth Office of Education have been of particular interest to Bushwalkers. No. I of a new series of "Platypus Pamphlets" was entitled "Living Monuments - A practical guide to Conversation," by H. A. Lindsay. Written for people personally interested in practising conserva­ tion of our natural resources, the pamphlet details ways in which each individual can help. The subject of "Soil Erosion"' is treated in the Current Affairs Bulletin, 8th May, I 950. The various factors affecting the soil are discussed and their effect on the erosion problem assessed. As presented, the resultant picture is not as black as sometimes painted, although the reader may have some doubt left in his mind due to the manner of writing, the discussion of many topics being concluded with a summarisation of the favourable rather than the unfavourable factors,

64 Record Your Bush Walking . . . so that your bush walking friends and activities will forever remain happily fresh in your memory. Be sure your pack always includes your KODAK CAMERA -loaded, or course, with KODAK FILM -It Gels the Picture KODAK (A/Asia] PTY. LTD. Melbourne - Ballarat - Geelong KODAK DEALERS EVERYWHERE

(Photograph by E. McBride) OTHER BROADBENT MAPS AND GUIDES ON CATAlOGUE "M" • /JoCROf CARD MAPS. &d • • lA~Ot )(~lt REPRODUCTIONS. 1/­ WALL PLAQUES or DESK STANDS • 6/6 Produced• by BROADBENT'S OFFIGIIH ROAD GUIDES GOMPANY Winfield Buildings, 495 Collins Street, Melbourne Telephone MB 2021

Map No. Map No. 100 Victoria and Riverina (Key Roads) 101 Melbourne---City and South (with 214 Stawell Street Numbers) 215 Hamilton 102 To and From Melbourne's Beaches 216 Mildura (Melbourne-Mordialloc) 217 Renmark 103 Mordialloc-Frankston Dist. 218 Warrnambool 104 Canberra 219 Kingston-Bordertown-Gambier 106 Sydney (City) District 137 Murray Bridge-Adelaide District 220 Warrandyte District 146 To and From Phillip Island and 223 The Spa Country Mornington Peninsula 224 Colac-Terang District 148 Phillip Island 225 Bacchus Marsh District 149 Sale 226 Ringwood 161 Wagga 227 East Gippsland 162 Warburton District 228 Warragul 163 Marysville and District 230 Approaches to Wonga Park 165 Mornington Peninsula 231 Eildon and The Acheron Valley 166 Frankston-Mt Martha District 233 To and From Mt. Macedon 167 Lorne District 237 Frankston 168 Phillip Island (Inverted) 238 Mornington 169 Daylesford and Hepburn Springs 239 Dromana 170 Apollo Bay District 240 Rosebud 171 Geelong-Lorne-Colac Dist. 241 Sorrento and Portsea 172 Bellarine Peninsula 242 Greensborough 173 Port Phillip Heads 243 The Barossa Valley 174 Sir Colin Mackenzie Sanctuary 244 Kerang Lakes District 175 Dromana District 245 Rye 176 Healesville and District 246 Bendigo-Daylesford District 177 Ballarat 247 Yarra Valley District 178 Geelong 248 Dandenong 179 Mt. Macedon District 249 Mt. Martha Public Park 180 Melbourne to and fro 250 Ballarat District 184 Gippsland Lakes 251 Latrobe Valley 185 Lakes Entrance District 252 lnverloch District 186 Bairnsdale-Lakes Entrance District 255 Goulbourne Valley 187 Buchan Caves-Lakes Entrance District 257 Beaches of Western Port 188 Bairnsdale 259 Traralgon 189 Yarram 260 Morwell 190 Adelaide (City) 261 Yallourn 191 Adelaide Environs 262 Moe and Newborough 192 The Dandenongs 263 Korumburra 193 Bendigo 264 Leongatha 194 Horsham 265 Wonthaggi 197 Wilson's Promontory 266 Drouin 198 Albury and the Upper Murray 275 Ferntree Gully and Boronia 200 Sherbrooke Forest 276 Melbourne's Mountain Suburbs 202 Kangaroo Island (Belgrave, Tecoma, Upwey) 203 Shepparton 278 Emerald-Gembrook Dist. 205 The Grampians 280 Yarra Hill Country 206 Nowra-Jervis Bay District 281 To and From The Dandenongs 207 Warrnambooi-Port Fairy District 285 Upper Yarra Hill Country 208 Portland and District 286 Interstate Routes: 209 Mt Gambier-Portland District Melbourne-Adelaide 210 Portland-Warrnambool District 287 Interstate Routes: 211 Warrnambooi-Port Campbell District Melbourne-Sydney 212 Mt. Gambier 213 Ararat AND MANY OTHERS

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