“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Colourful and colliding, Welcome to spiritual and soothing, & Mumbai ...... 2 crammed with deserted Goa & beaches, yogic bliss and Mumbai heady nightlife. Goa is many Map ...... 4 things to many people, but everyone agrees: there’s 10 Top Experiences ...... 6 nowhere on earth quite like it. Need to Know ...... 12 If You Like ...... 14

Month by Month ...... 16 Marvellous Mumbai sands of fancy À ve-stars, or hidden cres- cent coves, where the only footprints will More than just a gateway to Goa, Mumbai is be15 sea eagles’ and your own. a place that takesGRAHAM CROUCH / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © eating, drinking and mak- ing merry seriously. Luxuriate at a grand Spiritual Sanctuary hotel, explore glorious Gothic architecture, munch on street eats galore and party hard For those keener to top up their Zen than in this sizzling-hot city beside the sea. their tan, Goa’s crop of spiritual activities Itineraries ...... 20 grows more bountiful each year: silent vi- passana retreats, sunrise t’ai chi sessions, Beach Bounty TRIP YOUR PLAN reiki healing courses and just about every Goa’s greatest drawcard is without doubt other form of spiritual exploration are read- its legendary beaches. Strung in a shim- ily available statewide. By far the most pop- mering gold strand from the tip to the toe ular of myriad regimes on oՖ er is ayurveda, of the state, they cater to every possible the ancient science of plant-based medi- Beach Planner ...... 24 tropical whim: choose from happy, hippy cine; second only to ayurveda comes yoga, Arambol or bolder, brasher Baga; from the » Caption caption caption caption caption whose dozen-or-more varieties make it easy

lively sands of Palolem,caption caption or lovely,caption caption laid-back (p000) toIF YOU LIKE À nd the pose and poise that suit you best. Mandrem; from the expansive groomed

Bars & Architecture Religious Goa Yoga & Activities ...... 27 Drinking Goa’s heritage is probably If you’re visiting at Christ- Unlike residents of other most visible in its Portu- mas, don’t be surprised to parts of , many guese-style mansions, many see Santas in saris and hear enjoy a tipple or two upon slowly crumbling away, Christmas carols piped in occasion. A little local bar others in glorious states of Hindi. It’s all part of the provides the perfect ice- renovation. But there’s oth- heady religious mix here, Travel with Children ...... 32 breaker to strike up conver- er architecture, too, if you where Divali, Easter and sation with locals, while a look carefully, allowing you even a ‘À re-walking’ god- cold sunset beer is almost to peel away the years and dess day all put in annual glimpse a much older Goa. appearances. É obligatory along the state’s Sanctuary •# Backwoods sandy shores. Braganza House, Basilica of Bom , Old •# Camp •# É Mumbai Hip, minimalist clubs, One of few palácios open to Goa Visit a saint’s desiccated Regions at a Glance ...... 34 Ponda grungy backstreet bars, cool the public, the split-personality relics at this splendid basilica, Velsao •# jazz joints, ’80s music-À lled Braganza House is a fascinating just dripping with silver stars

É dives: you’ll À nd them all in insight into how the aristo- and ecclesiastical glory (p 129 )

É abundance in this hard-partying cratic Goan other half once lived Shigmotsav (Shigmo) Goa’s •# city (p 60 ) (p159 ) version of the Hindu festival of •#Chandor ARABIAN Local bars, No frills Palaùio do Deão, Quepem A la- Holi sees much Á inging of col- SEA here, but decent drinks in bour of love for its owners – you oured tikka powder in ebullient •#Quepem down-to-earth surroundings can take tea on the terrace of celebration of Spring (p 16 ) 35 É make Panaji’s teeny bars a great this stunning palaùio, marvelling Christmas A highlight on the É at the wealth of painstakingly •#Usgalimal choice for whiling away an hour Goan calendar, Christmas

Rock Carvings or two (p 121 ) renovated detail (p 160 ) involves nativity scenes beneath É Anjuna Take the edge oՖ a hot Hampi Wander around stunning palm trees, twinkling lights and market afternoon with a cold 15th- and 16th-century temples jiggle-hipped electronic Santas, drink at Anjuna Market, while and palaces, at this World Herit- making for a very merry vibe Agonda •# É listening to an expat crooner age Site that time forgot (p 143 ) (p 19 )

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# É Cotigao Wildlife murder yet another Hotel Goan Forts The Goan coastline Church of Our Lady of the Sanctuary California (p87 ) is dotted with the atmospheric Immaculate Conception, Palolem •# Cafe Chocolatti, remnants of a once mighty Panaji Clamber the steps to this Sip a ginger-lime À zz or an seafaring nation, all ripe for the wedding cake of a church, where old-fashioned English cuppa exploration (p175 ) sailors once stopped to thank One month alongside a slice of chocolate the heavens for safe their arrival Anjuna & Panaji & Palolem & cake in Chocolatti’s shady, from (p 113 )

REGIONS AT A GLANCE REGIONS The Best of Goa North Goa Central Goa South Goa Á owery garden (p 105 )

Entertainment 333 History 333 Beaches 333 With a month to spare, you can truly get to the heart of the state. Start in the n Luxury 333 Wildlife 33 Yo ga 333 Beaches 333 Temples 33 Exploration 333 winding down for a few days in backpacker-central Arambol, and following up some more in quiet Mandrem, with a yoga retreat or some solitude on its sa Next head down through the pretty inland village of Siolim, to explore what’s le Entertainment History Beaches the trance scene at Chapora and Vagator, before moving on to hippyish Anjuna to hi North Goa is where it’s at in Picturesque Portuguese-era Excellent strips of quiet terms of after-hours enter- bungalows abound in the beach can be found Á ea markets. Press on then to hard-partying and À ne-dining in Calangute and Baga tainment. Calangute, Baga, historic villages of Central throughout South Goa; then visit the hulking River Princess tanker at Candolim. Anjuna and Candolim oՖ er Goa, and in the slow-paced Palolem’s glorious crescent Meandering slowly south, stop oՖ to explore the string of villages along the Man live-music joints, bars rang- state capital, Panaji. Not serves a lively traveller com- ing from spit-and-sawdust to far away, ’s glorious munity, while a little further River: drop in on Corjuem Island and Naroa, then hop a ferry to Island, w mixology central, and even cathedrals once earned it north, À ve-star hotels back exploring for its slow, sleepy pace of life and crumbling old homes. Travel on, via Old G the occasional nightclub. the moniker ‘Rome of the onto beautiful undeveloped once the fabled ‘Rome of the East’, to Panaji to eat well and soak up the easy city East’. tracts of white, palm-fringed Luxury sands. Once comfortably installed here, take a trip out to the lovely little riverine Dr Salim With a bumper crop of Wildlife boutique hotels, North Goa Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Yoga Bird Sanctuary on Chorao Island Striking out still further into the hinterland now’ oՖ ers the state’s best luxury on lovely Chorao Island, Yoga, ayurveda and massage stays. Bed down in a con- makes for a leisurely spot aplenty are on oՖ er in Pal- verted fortress, a chic village of birdwatching beside the olem, Patnem and Agonda, bungalow, or minimalist river. Further aÀ eld are along with a whole host of beachside haven; many also Bondla and Bhagwan Ma- other seasonally-changing oՖ er spa services for ad- havir Wildlife Sanctuaries, spiritual pursuits. Visitors ditional pampering after a while Backwoods Camp is should check local notice hard day’s lounging. an ornithologist’s dream. boards to À nd the yogi, guru or t’ai chi master of their Beaches Temples choice. From the bustling beaches Temples abound around Pon- of Baga to the empty da, where the Shri Manguesh Exploration stretches at Mandrem, and Shri Laxmi Narasimha Getting oՖ the beaten track there’s a beach to À t every temples are especially worth is easy in South Goa, where inclination in North Goa. a visit. Further east, Tambdi tiny coastal villages invite Arambol, Vagator and An- Surla is home to the inter- exploration by scooter, juna’s beaches are popular esting little 12th-century motorbike or rental car. with backpackers; Calan- temple, which has survived For adventurous souls, the gute and Sinquerim are the centuries of conquerors and trip out to the Usgalimal places to head for water temple demolitions. rock carvings makes for the sports. ultimate Goan road-less- p110 travelled. p70 p 150

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 187 Learn about the big picture, so you GOA & MUMBAI can make sense of what you see

population per sq km Goa Today ...... 188 USA GOA INDIA

History ...... 190 ≈ 30 people

g across the border in British India. But es ite wi es rea The Way of Life ...... 197 tions, on 10 June 1947 the Portuguese Minister of Co onies, C À lo Duarte, warned that the ‘Portuguese Á ag will not fall do without some thousands of Portuguese, white an co oure their blood in its defence’. Goa Today Portugal’s dicta- tor Dr Antonio de Arts & Architecture ...... 203 Oliveira Salazar The March to Independence attempted to When overtures by the newly independent Indian govern Paradise Found lobby world made to the Portuguese in 1953, it became clear that the Port A solitary Portuguese outpost in India for almost 500 years, the inÁ u- leaders into con- no intention of withdrawing. On 11 June 1953 diplomatic r demning India’s ence of colonial rule in Goa can still be seen everywhere: in the exqui- claims over Goa: tween the two countries were broken oՖ . site, crumbling architecture; in the East-meets-West cuisine; and in the Food, Glorious Food ...... 206 Within Goa, protests continued, often met with violent he even managed siesta-saturated joie de vivre that Goans themselves call susegad. to persuade John from Portuguese forces. Meanwhile India manoeuvred for Little wonder, with all these charms, that just about everybody wants – F Kennedy to al support. Finally, however, Indian Prime Minister Jawah or wanted at some point in history – to come here. The state has had write to Nehru, found himself pushed to the brink when, in November 1961, advising him er fair share of would-be conquerors, from the Mauryans and the troops stationed 10km south of Goa opened À re on Indian À Markets & Shopping ...... 212 against the use Marathas, to the British, Dutch and Portuguese. Today pinkish package of force on the On the night of 17 December 1961 Operation Vijay À nally tourists throng the northern beaches; upwardly mobile internationals issue. troops crossing the border. They were met with little resista ounge esi e inÀ nity pools; well-heeled Russians party the evenings evening of the following day the troops reached Panaji. away; an young Israelis soak away the stresses of military service At 8.30am on 19 December, troops of the Punjab Regime But international travellers aren’t the only non-Goans who arrive in Wildlife & the Panaji Secretariat Building and unfurled the Indian Á a

1835 1843 the Environment ...... 215 Goa’s senate moves Panjim becomes Goa’s Port

from Old Goa to a new capital, and Old HUW JONES / LONELY PLA itself a healthier capital Goa is left almost dictat at Panjim (today’s uninhabited. British de Ol Panaji). Goa’s viceroy, adventurer Richard ta Dom Manuel de Portu- Burton soon describes refusing gal e Castro, levels the Old Goa as a place of co

ISBN 978-1-74179-778-7 5 1 9 9 9

9 781741 797787 PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 36 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Anjuna & North Goa p70

Panaji & Central Goa p110

Mumbai (Bombay) p38

Goa Palolem & South Goa p150

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 219 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

h;¬s ho$l Directory A-Z ...... 220 tel yUq h;S$l mu·je That was delicious. ou have Ky; bót mj¹ed;r óa;) ba·hut ma· room? hwÀ Please bring the menu/bill. Transport ...... 232 single is'gl l;”ye) men·yoo/bil laa double @bl Emergencies How much is ... ke ily Language ...... 238 it per …? iktne pwse ma·dad kee·ji·ye lgte hw'À night Ek r;t jaa·o Glossary ...... 243 person hr VyiKt mayng raas·taa bool Numbers – Hindi ga··yaa/ga··yee hoong 1 1 Ek Index ...... 250 2 2 do @;ŽK$r ko bul;aoÚ daak·tar ko bu·laa 3 3 tIn Call the police! pu·lis ko bu·la 4 c;r puils ko bul;aoÚ 5 p;\c mayng b 6 zh Map Legend ...... 255 I’m allergic to (antibiotics s;t E'$Ib;yoi$iksâ ;# Where’s

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Amelia Thomas › Goa && Mumbai Mumbai TopTop Experiences Experiences › To Mumbai (580km) To Savantvadi Mumbai (32km) Eat, drink, shop and M A H A R A S H T R A K A R N A T A K A party (p38)

Fort Tiracol River Terek Arambol (Terekhol) hol 17 Pernem Backpacker-friendly Train Station beach scene (p71) Querim Pernem Riv Konkan er Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary Arambol Mandrem ora Boat out to avian Chap Yogic beach bliss PERNEM R action (p125) a il (p74) Mandrem w Mandrem Beach ay Madei Aswem Protected Panaji Aswem Beach Area Wander the languid Chopdem Colvale Shop with locals at Morjim Thivim (Mapusa Rd) state capital (p111) Siolim Mapusa market (p84) Anjunem Morjim Beach Train Station Map River Gontel Chapora Fort Chapora usa Corjuem Old Goa Vagator Assagao Fort Former ‘Rome of the Aldona Vagator Beach Mapusa Corjuem Bicholim East’ (p126) Anjuna Island Shri Mayem Anjuna Beach SATARI Arpora Saptakoteshwara Lake Temple Ponda Baga Beach Baga Pomburpa Sanquelim 17 Torda ChoraoNaroa Sweet-scented spices Island M Calangute Beach Calangute an Onda near Ponda (p135) Dr Salim Ali Saligao dov Candolim Bird Sanctuary i Valpoi Candolim Beach Reis Magos Britona Divar R Backwoods Camp Fort Betim Island Sinquerim i ver Nanus Fort Spot feathered friends Beach Old Goa Fort Panaji Talaulim galore (p142) Aguada Nerul (Coco) (Panjim) Karmali Aguada Bay Beach (Old Goa) Cotorem To Londa (111km); Train Station Savoi Verem Miramar Beach Miramar Backwoods Bhagwan Mahavir Dharwar (146km); Cabo Raj Bhavan Shri Manguesh Bondla Wildlife Camp Wildlife Sanctuary Belgaum (155km); PONDA Dona Paula Temple Caves of Sanctuary Anegundi (280km); Pilar Khandepar Hospet (280km) Anjuna Shri Mahalsa Safa Usgao Mormugao Shahouri Khandepar Happy, hippy Thursday Temple To Londa Junction; Mormugao Bay Agassaim Masjid Usgao Tisk market action (p87) Shri Ramnath Shri Tambdi Surla Castle Rock Sancoale Temple Mahadeva Vasco da Gama 17A Ponda Darbandora Molem MORMUGAO Shri Shantadurga Temple National Pequeno Dabolim Dabolim Temple 4A SANGUEM Park Island Airport Molem Bogmalo Grande Velsao Verna Colem Cansaulim Train Station Island Train Station Verna Train Station Z PONDA Bhagwan Mahavir Arossim Beach u Railw ari Wildlife Sanctuary l Shiroda tra ay Utorda Beach Majorda en Seminary River C Dudhsagar Majorda Beach Falls Curtorim uth So Betalbatim Beach Margao Colva (Madgaon) Chandorgoa Loutolim Colva Beach Sanvordem Glimpse lovely leafy Benaulim Train Station Margao Sanvordem village life (p158) Benaulim Beach (Madgaon) Chandor Train Station Train Station Curchorem Darguina Sal Mumbai Shri Chandreshwar Varca R (Bombay) Bhutnath Temple Sanguem iver Chandor Varca Beach Quepem

S A taste of colonial

Goa Chinchinim Shri Damodar a Temple n Goa (p159) g Assolna u Cavelossim Zambaulim em Rivona S Cavelossim Cuncolim River Beach Buddhist Rivona Mobor Caves T Bali Bali Train P E Mobor Beach a A Station r Usgalimal G ed SANGUEM N Betul a Rock Carvings H

ELEVATION Netravali A G Protected R 600m River Area N

300m I QUEPEM R 150m Cabo da Barcem R E

50m Rama Fort D Train Station Konka A 0 Netravali T Bubble Lake Y S

H n

Agonda Cotigao E A Railway 17 Shri Mallikarjuna Wildlife S 0 10 km Agonda Beach 0 5 miles Temple Sanctuary W Palolem Chaudi Talpona Canacona Palolem Patnem Train Station River Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary Laze on legendary Patnem Beach Rajbag Talpona Wander dense forest golden sands (p177) CANACONA trails (p183) A R A B I A N Galgibag Poinguinim S E A MMasher

Galgibag To Karwar (13km); K A R N A T A K A Silent sands where Gokarna (60km); turtles hatch (p183) Polem Jog Falls (110km) Polem Beach 20

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

•# Fort Tiracol iver •# (Terekhol) Querim R É Terekhol

•# Arambol

•#Mandrem Ma River ndovi

É

•# Aswem •#

É Siolim Morjim•# É A R A B I A N Fort •# S E A Aguada Chapora •# Vagator •# •#

Anjuna É Mapusa •# É

•# Baga É É

•# Calangute

•# Candolim

Two Weeks Northern Nonpareil

The north encompasses a little of everything that’s great about Goa. Start with a soothing stay at historic Portuguese Tiracol (Terekhol) Fort, and from here hop on a ferry for solitary sunbathing in Querim, then hit Arambol for beach huts and a permanent festival vibe. Continue south to mellow Mandrem for yogic serenity, Aswem, to dine at its renowned French-inspired beach shack, and Morjim, where rare turtles hatch and Russians rule, for a stroll along the estuary. Next head inland via pretty Siolim, to Chapora and Vagator for the last dregs of the Goa trance scene. Kick back in Anjuna, visiting its legendary fl ea market to sniff out a bar- gain, then shop some more at workaday Mapusa with its immense local market. Backtrack to Baga and Calangute to pick up the pace, hit the clubs, water-sport the days away and dine on fi ne foodstuff s, then fi nally head south to Candolim for a riverine wildlife-watching trip and a jaunt up to impressive Fort Aguada, ending your journey, as it began, in the shadow of Portugal’s once-mighty colonial conquests. 21

Arambol•# Dr Salim Ali Mandrem •# Bird Sanctuary É Siolim •# Chorao Chapora •# Island •# Vagator •# Corjuem Anjuna •#Baga Island •# •# •# É Naroa Calangute •# •# •# •# Divar Island Candolim TRIP YOUR PLAN •# •# Panaji Old Goa Bondla Wildlife É Sanctuary •# Backwoods •# Camp •# É Ponda

Velsao •#

É É •# Margao •#Chandor ITINERARIES ARABIAN SEA •#Quepem É

É •#Usgalimal

Rock Carvings É

Agonda •# É •# É Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary Palolem •#

One Month The Best of Goa

With a month to spare, you can truly get to the heart of the state. Start in the north, winding down for a few days in backpacker-central Arambol, and following up with some more quiet in Mandrem, with a yoga retreat or some solitude on its sands. Next head down through the pretty inland village of Siolim, to explore what’s left of the trance scene at Chapora and Vagator, before moving on to hippyish Anjuna to hit the fl ea markets. Press on then to hard-partying and fi ne-dining in Calangute and Baga and then visit the hulking River Princess tanker at Candolim. Meandering slowly south, stop off to explore the string of villages along the : drop in on Corjuem Island and Naroa, then hop a ferry to Divar Island, worth exploring for its slow, sleepy pace of life and crumbling old homes. Travel on, via Old Goa, once the fabled ‘Rome of the East’, to Panaji to eat well and soak up the easy city vibe. Once comfortably installed here, take a trip out to the lovely little riverine Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on Chorao Island. Striking out still further into the hinterland, now’s the time to take a spice plantation tour near Ponda, and, if birdwatching is even faintly your thing, head out even further east to the Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary for a stay at the idyllic Backwoods Camp. Backtracking to Ponda, head down south to Margao, the workaday gateway to the south- ern beaches, to install yourself in your beach hut or boutique hotel for at least a week, if not a fortnight, of seaside bliss. Go for Agonda if you’re not one for crowds, or Palolem, if you’re looking for a happy backpackery vibe. From here, rent a car or scooter to explore the stretch of coast between Agonda and Velsao, and delve into the hinterland to Chandor, Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Quepem, and the Usgalimal Rock Carvings. When you’re fi nally ready to break your beach sojourn, consider a couple of nights away in glorious Hampi or pilgrim-heavy Gokarna, before returning to wash away the travails of the road with a last few days in your hammock beside the Arabian Sea.

22 ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ITINERARIES

» (above) Carved platform, Hampi

HUW JONES / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © (p143) » (left) Querim beach (p75). 23

•# Mayem Lake Corjuem Island•# É

É Chorao Island Dr Salim Ali #• •# Aldona #• Naroa Bird Sanctuary •# Pomburpa •# •#Divar Island É Panaji •# •# •# Old Goa Ta m b d i S u r l a É Ribandar Mahadeva Bondla Wildlife •# Sanctuary•# Goa Velha •# Agassim

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN

É •# É Ponda • É Velsao # •# Arossim •# •# Loutolim Utorda É Majorda•# ARABIAN Betalbatim •# Margao •# •# Bhagwan Mahavir SEA Chandor Wildflife Sanctuary É •#

Varca •# •# Quepem ITINERARIES Cavelossim •# •# Assolna Rivona Mobor •# Buddhist Caves Betul •# •# Usgalimal •# Rock Carvings

Agonda •# É •# Netravali

Bubble Lake •# Patnem É •# Southern Sun Galgibag•# An Inland Adventure Palolem •# Cotigao Wildflife •# Polem Sanctuary

Two Weeks Ten Days Southern Sun An Inland Adventure

Arriving at workaday Margao, Even in tiny Goa, it’s possible to shrug hub of the south, cool down at old- off the crowds for a taste of the road fashioned Longhuino’s, before head- less travelled. Begin in Panaji, the ing northwest to begin a stay on the lovely, languid state capital, before sands of Velsao. From Velsao, wind slowly heading to Old Goa, where the ghosts of down the coast, stopping off at the beaches Goan history await. Backtrack to pretty Rib- of Arossim, Utorda, Majorda and Betal- andar to catch a ferry to Chorao Island, batim, perhaps with a swanky night at home of the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, the Park Hyatt or Vivenda dos Palhacos then ferry-hop to Divar Island for sleepy thrown in. island life, and take a third ferry to Naroa, Continue on down along the lazy sands to the tiny, ancient Shri Saptakoteshwara of Varca and stop for lunch in Cavelossim. Temple and quiet Mayem Lake. Next detour to Mobor to get a feel for pris- Head west across to Corjuem Island, tine estuarine life, then double back to Cav- stopping in at Aldona, Pomburpa, and elossim to jump on a ferry to Assolna, and Britona on the Mandovi River. Turn south, begin your exploration of Goa’s southern- skirting Panaji, via Goa Velha and Agassim, most stretch. to historic Loutolim, before going east to Follow the coastal road through bucolic the temples and spice farms of Ponda. Head Betul all the way to Agonda where you can further east to one of two wildlife sanctuar- relax in barefoot splendour, and get stuck ies: bird-fi lled Bondla or Bhagwan Ma- into those books you’ve brought along for havir, with its giddy waterfall. Detour to the the ride. Next, hunker down in Palolem ancient Tambdi Surla Mahadeva temple, where the pace is less lazy, and track down then head south to Chandor. Here, explore one of its ‘silent parties’. Base yourself here, one of Goa’s grandest mansions, then visit or in nearby Patnem, to explore the south’s busy little Quepem en route to the Rivona beautiful beaches, or to take a day trip to Buddhist caves, Usgalimal rock carvings Galgibag or Polem, two of the state’s quiet- and Netravali Bubble Lake. Stroll a trail in est beaches gracing the coast on the slow Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary before end- road down to Karnataka. ing on the picture-perfect sands of Palolem. See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

MUMBAI (BOMBAY) . .38 Molem & Around ...... 141 GREATER MUMBAI...... 68 Tambdi Surla ...... 142 Elephanta Island ...... 68 Further Afield ...... 143 Hampi ...... 143 ANJUNA & Around Hampi...... 148 NORTH GOA ...... 70 Hospet ...... 149 Arambol (Harmal) ...... 71 Mandrem ...... 74 PALOLEM & Aswem ...... 76 SOUTH GOA ...... 150 Morjim ...... 78 Margao ...... 151 Siolim ...... 78 Around Margao ...... 158 Vagator & Chapora ...... 79 Vasco da Gama ...... 161 Mapusa ...... 84 Around Vasco Anjuna ...... 87 da Gama ...... 162 Calangute & Baga ...... 92 Bogmalo to Betalbatim ...... 162 Candolim, Sinquerim & Fort Aguada ...... 99 Colva ...... 166 Nerul (Coco) Beach ...... 106 Benaulim ...... 169 Along the Mandovi Varca, Cavelossim & River ...... 106 Mobor ...... 171 Assolna to Agonda ...... 174 PANAJI & Chaudi ...... 177 CENTRAL GOA . . . . . 110 Palolem ...... 177 Panaji ...... 111 Colomb ...... 181 West of Panaji ...... 124 Patnem ...... 182 Panaji to Old Goa ...... 125 Rajbag ...... 183 Old Goa ...... 126 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary ...... 183 Divar Island ...... 133 Galgibag ...... 183 Goa Velha ...... 134 Polem ...... 184 Talaulim ...... 135 Pilar ...... 135 Further Afield ...... 184 Ponda ...... 135 Gokarna ...... 184 Around Ponda ...... 137 Jog Falls ...... 186 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary ...... 140 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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