ZLATNA Ampoi Alba Iulia MUNŢII TRASCĂU Zone Pentru Escaladă

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ZLATNA Ampoi Alba Iulia MUNŢII TRASCĂU Zone Pentru Escaladă Valea Ampoiului Principalele obiective, apreciate de practicanţii escaladei, sunt „klipele” de calcar, martori de eroziune, care punctează întregul parcurs al Văii Ampoiului în aval de oraşul Zlatna. Formate din ciment calcaroas care înglobează sedimente caracteristice breciilor, orbitoline, şisturi cristaline şi argile compactate, aceste stânci prezintă puternice elemente de eroziune ce creează un areal divers, cu posibilităţi multiple pentru practicarea escaladei. Numite de către localnici „Pietre”, „Bulbuci” sau „Bulzi”, aceste vârfuri stâncoase se constituie ca nişte monoliţi izolaţi, în formă de turnuri cu înăţimi cuprinse între 10 m şi 70 m înconjuraţi de păşuni. Principala caracteristică morfologică este dată de feţele verticale sau uşor căzute, cu textură diferită de la o zonă la alta a fiecărei stânci în funcţie de alcătuirea geologică şi orientarea geografică. Procesele de eroziune s-au concretizat în formarea unor porţiuni largi acoperite cu alveole, sau perforaţii rămase în urma alterării incluziunilor moi din gresie sau argile compactate. Cele mai importante stânci pentru practicarea escaladei sunt cele de la Ampoiţa; Calcarele de la Ampoiţa şi Piatra Boului, Meteş; Pietrele Ţana, Peşteruie, Peşterii, Piatra Varului, stâncile din satul Valea Mică şi cele de la Bulbuce etc. Diferite din punct de vedere geologic, dar cu ample posibilităţi de practicare a escaladei sportive şi alpinismului, sunt cheile unor afluenţi din stânga ai Ampoiului, Cheile Ampoiţei şi Cheile Feneşului, precum şi câteva ţancuri izolate (Colţul lui Blaj) şi pereţi înalţi (Dâmbău şi Corabia). MUNŢII TRASCĂU Piatra Cluj-Napoca Poienii Ţelna Ighiu Cheile Cheile Feneşului Lunca Ampoiţei Ampoiţei Ighiel Şard DN 1 Calcarele de la Ampoi Vâltori oiţa Ampoiţa Colţul Amp DN 74 Ampoiţa Miceşti ş lui e Piatra r Blaj Boului u Bărăbanţ M Calcarele Presaca de la Feneş Ampoiului Meteş Tăuţi Bulbuci Văleni Alba Iulia Ampoi Poiana ZLATNA Galaţi Ampoiului Valea Mică Deva, Sebeş, Zone pentru escaladă Sibiu Vale Ampoiului, zonele pentru escaladă Ighiel, Piatra Poienii Piatra Poienii, rezervaţie geologică, este un bloc de calcar de 15 m înălţime, care domină satul Ighiel de pe malul stâng al pârâului cu acelaşi nume, afluent de stânga al Ampoiului. Caracteristici: zona se evidenţiază prin porţiunea surplombată lungă de aproape 40 m, propice pentru practicarea boulderingului de mare dificultate. Primele probleme de bloc au fost deschise de către căţărătorii albaiulieni la începutul anilor ’90, ulterior fiind echipate şi câteva rute de escaladă de nivel mediu. Acces: dinspre Alba Iulia urmăm DN 75 în direcţia Zlatna, iar din satul Şard se face dreapta spre Ighiu. Din centru satului Ighiu se urmează spre stânga drumul spre localitatea Ighiel, stânca fiind vizibilă în vârful dealului care domină localitatea. Cazare: se pot închiria camere la pensiunile turistice din Ighiu şi Cricău. Campare: se poate campa la baza peretelui. Obiective turistice: se pot efectua o serie de trasee turistice, marcate spre Piatra Craivei, Piatra Cetii, sau urmând în amonte drumul forestier, ce urcă pe Valea Ighielului, se ajunge la lacul carstic, rezervaţie naturală, Iezerul Ighielului. GPS 46°08’57.79”N, 23°28’43.12”E 12 11 8 9 10 7 1 2 6 3 4 5 6a 15 min. S Trasee de bloc Trasee de escaladă 8. Ca 5- 12 m 1. traversare, D. Anghel, L. Coica, 2007 m. m. Variante uşor 9. Pi 5 12 m 2. Electric Avenue mediu - greu D. Anghel, L. Coica, 2007 3. Crowling mediu - greu 10. Vo 7 11 m 4. Proiect greu D. Anghel, L. Coica, 2007 5. Proiect greu 11. Fu-fa 7 11 m 6. Eu şi priza mediu D. Anghel, L. Coica, 2007 6a. plecare de jos mediu - greu 12. Ga 7+ 8 m 7. F.n. Uşor D. Anghel, L. Coica, 2007 Calcarele de la Ampoiţa Cunoscute şi sub denumirile de Pietrele Gomnuşei, Pietrele de la Ampoiţa, Pietrele lui Bocioacă, Stogurile Popii, ele reprezintă trei blocuri calcaroase cu înălţime cuprinsă între 10 - 50 m, situate pe Valea Ampoiţei la 800 m de la intrarea în satul Ampoiţa, dinspre DN 74, Alba Iulia - Zlatna. Roca: este aparent similară calcarelor, dar este o mixtură între elemente brecioase şi ciment calcaros, fapt care oferă o mare varietate a texturii rocii în funcţie de straturile de depunere geologică (poziţionate la ora actuală vertical), orientarea geografică şi înclinaţia pereţilor. Caracteristici: feţe căzute sau verticale cu alveole, fără vegetaţie şi porţiuni friabile pe verticale. Acces: din DN 74, Alba Iulia - Zlatna, la km 10 în dreptul localităţii Ampoiţa urmăm spre vest DC 68 până la un pâlc de case situate la baza stâncilor. Pentru acces putem urma un drum de ţară ce se bifurcă spre dreapta înainte de prima gospodărie, sau o potecă îngustă, situată după ultima casă. Perioada ideală: arealul prezintă condiţii excelente pentru escaladă tot timpul anului. Cazare: putem găsi cazare în amonte de calcare, la două pensiuni turistice care oferă condiţii foarte bune. Campare: se poate monta cortul la baza celei de-a II-a stânci, apă şi alimente se pot procura din sat. Echipament: o coardă simplă de 50 m şi 12-13 bucle expres sunt suficiente pentru majoritatea traseelor. GPS 46°07’00.80”N, 23°28’42.48”E Ţ Calcarele de la Ampoiţa Sector II Sector III P 3 Alba Iulia Sector I 10 km P 2 Sector II Sector I Sector II 150 m P P 1 Sector I Ampoiţa, Halta Cheile Ampoiţei Ampoiţa P poiţa Râul Am P 1, P 2, P 3 numerotarea stâncilor Zlatna P locuri de parcare 25 km P 1, Sector I A A B 7 8 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 min. E 1. Calypso 8- 18 m D. Anghel, R. Bălan, 2000 2. Formentara (direct) 9- 18 m Var. Pe fisură 8- D. Anghel, 2008 3. French curve 7+ 18 m D. Anghel, 1994 4. Tobacco Road 9 20 m D. Anghel, 2003 5. Zappa just left The building 9 20 m D. Anghel, 2008 6. Zappamaniacul 8+ 20 m D. Anghel, 1991 (Iniţial 9-, modificat 2015) 7. Hip 7 16 m D. Anghel, 2007 8. Hop 7+ 16 m D. Anghel, 2007 P 1, Sector I B 12 24 11 13 17 20 22 23 19 21 14 16 18 12 15 9 10 5 min. E 10. Printre Craci 8 15 m D. Anghel, 2002 11. Pro Design 8 15 m D. Anghel, 1996 (var. tr. 10, 12) 12. Prinţesa 8+ 15 m D. Anghel, 1989 13. Vital 8+/9- 12 m D. Anghel, 1994 (var tr. 12, 14) 14. Pictures 8+ 12 m D. Anghel, S. Morariu, 1991 15. Ketch-up 8+/9- 12 m D. Anghel, 2002 16. Pandora 8+/9- 10 m D. Anghel, 2000 17. Şoarec Şod 9- 10 m D. Anghel, 1997 8. Hai să fie 8+/9- 10 m D. Anghel, 1997 9. Play Boy 7 10 m D. Anghel, 1991 20. 7+ 12 m D. Anghel, 2015 21. Psicho 7 12 m D. Anghel, 1996 (Rp. 2015) 22. Pongo 8 8 m D. Anghel, 2015 23. Pie 7 8 m D. Anghel, 2015 24. Adrian 7+ 18 m D. Anghel, S. Morariu, 2003 P 1, Sector II A A B X X X X X X X 5 1 2 3 4 X acces 6 7 10 8 9 11 10 min. W, NW 1. Didi 9- 15 m 7. Gandalf 8+ 20 m D. Anghel, 1989 D. Anghel, 2002 2. Scorpion 9- 15 m 8. Gimli 9- 8 m I. Lazăr, 1989 D. Anghel, 2002 3. Charlie 10 (?) 10 m 9. Furby 8- 18 m D. Anghel, 1996 D. Anghel, 2007 4. Sheery 8+ 10 m 10. Hornul 4 30 m D. Anghel, 1996 Autori necunoscuţi 5. Zoolok 8- 10 m I. Lazăr, 1989 6. Galadriel 8- 10 m D. Anghel, 2002 P 1, Sector II B 10 11 12 13 22 14 21 15 18 19 20 16 17 5 - 10 min. W, SW 18. Faţa de porţelan 7+/8- 20 m 11. Gaudi 8- 30 m C. Tamaş, 1990 D. Anghel, 1991, modificat 2015 19. Haos 7+/8- 20 m 12. 5B 6- 20 m D. Anghel, 2007 Z. Puşcaş, 1980 13. Forda`s Clapp 7+ 20 m 20. Spanac olandez 7+ 20 m D. Anghel, 2007 D. Anghel, D. Ciocan, 1997 14. Opera Vertical 8 20 m 21. Amadeus 7 20 m A. Conradi, D. Anghel, 1987 D. Anghel, 1996 22. Ham, Mau, Tit 8 20 m 15. Pas final 7- 15 m D. Anghel, 2007 D. Anghel, 1996 16. Pas de pas 8 18 m D. Anghel, 20 17. Sorin 8- 18 m S. Vistovski, 1990 P 2, Sector I Top rapel 25 26 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 14 17 1 3 6 16 2 4 9 11 15 5 7 8 10 12 13 5 - 10 min. E, N 1. Lica 5 20 m 18. Pa-galul 8- 10 m D. Anghel, 2015 D. Anghel, 1996 2. Hobitul 5+ 13 m 19. Cârcotaşul 9- 10 m D. Anghel, 2002 D. Anghel, 2000 3. Donkye 6+ 13 m 20. Fantasia 9 12 m D. Anghel, 1988 D. Anghel, 2001 4. Trocea 5+ 15 m 21. Love 9 15 m I. Lazăr, 1988 D. Anghel, 1989 5. V 33 6 25 m 22. Bocioacă 8 15 m D. Anghel, 2015 D. Anghel, 2000 6. Pink Floyd 6 15 m 23. Gigi Contra 9- 15 m I. Lazăr, 1988 D. Anghel, 2000 7. Buflea 6- 18 m 24. Pită unsă cu cuţâtu 18 m I. Lazăr, 1988 D. Anghel, M. Stelian 2015 8. Gupy 7 18 m 25. Tofy 18 m I. Lazăr, 1988 D. Anghel, M. Stelian 2015. 9. Fosila 7+ 25 m 26. Nişte bătrânoci 18 m D. Anghel, 2015 D. Anghel, M. Stelian 2015 10. U 8- 18 m C.
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