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Epicurious DINING HAS BECOME an IMPOR- As We Build on This Body of Work with TANT PART of OUR CULTURAL Each Issue, We Encourage Your Involve- LIVES

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Epicurious DINING HAS BECOME an IMPOR- As We Build on This Body of Work with TANT PART of OUR CULTURAL Each Issue, We Encourage Your Involve- LIVES Epicurious DINING HAS BECOME AN IMPOR- As we build on this body of work with TANT PART OF OUR CULTURAL each issue, we encourage your involve- LIVES. That is especially true in South- ment.Your suggestions and feedback will west Florida where a recent influx of tal- only enrich this process. So, take a look at ented chefs and innovative entrepre- the list, pick one, and go have a nice neurs has dramatically improved the dinner. You will have only about 87,660 food landscape. They have built their meals in your life.Why waste one? restaurants with creativity, hard work, Cheers, and passion. David Grant, Cuisine Editor BACCHUS & CO.: Gourmet Wine Bar. Shannon and a club behind the Ft. Myers restaurant draws Yates has created an oenophile’s dream, a bistro a large dance crowd for the 30-and-up set. 5990 where innovative food actually takes second Winkler Road, Ft. Myers, 239/590-6772. billing to the wine—and at wine store prices, no less. The bulk of the seating is outside, but to CHADWICK’S: Bountiful Buffet. Fresh vibrant catch a seat inside is to be surrounded by all man- colors, steady island rhythms, and a bill of fare ner of wine with a view of an energetic, open they like to call “Floribbean” are the draws to this kitchen/bar manned by a hip, talented band of South Seas Resort sanctuary at the end of Captiva chefs serving up refined Provençal Medit- Island. From the bayou to the Caribbean, each day erranean fare. Start with a Bacchus board, one of has a different theme at this tropical buffet spot. Fine Italian cuisine the creative salads, and whatever special they’ve The spreads are plentiful and the selections many, thought up that day. It won’t disappoint. They with local seafood always in the mix. Champagne and fresh seafood show off the grapes well with tastings every brunch, offered on Sundays, is worth special note. Monday and Thursday and frequent wine dinners. Open daily for lunch and dinner, the lounge adds The late-night menu that keeps the kitchen open some dancing and nightlife with island music in until 1 a.m. should serve as a siren call to all hun- the latter half of the week. South Seas Resort, gry insomniacs and bar hoppers. The Bell Tower Captiva, 239/472-7554. Shops, First St., Ft. Myers, 239/415-9463. DOLCE VITA: Fused Mediterranean. Forget for BISTRO 41: New American Upscale. Don’t be a moment the charming supper-club feel. Ignore fooled for a minute by the standard bistro menu briefly the imaginative Mediterranean-based cui- before you. The scale is definitely “up” at this sine. Instead, focus on the essence of Dolce Vita. place. One look at the elaborate, inventive list of Its owner, Andrea, dancing in the middle of the daily specials and you understand why this spot room, arms raised in his best Zorba the Greek rates high acclaim. Visually arresting presenta- impression, “Chef Boris” joining the band for tions with leanings toward Eastern flavor compo- some serious conga playing. Now that’s entertain- nents are paired well with a creative wine list. ment. With a menu that deftly marries world cui- Seafood specials are typically splendid. A sine with Mediterranean principles, interesting Gorgonzola and walnut pesto-encrusted filet is a choices abound. Main courses include barbecued frequent special of note. Some regulars come saddle of wild boar with a tart juniper berry only for the high-end comforts like the Bistro sauce, salmon topped with a balsamic shallot Meatloaf made of veal, pork, and beef tender- reduction, and a curried lamb shank with golden loin—just like Mom’s…right. We’ll stick with raisin compote. A delicious macadamia nut pie whatever chef Ralph Centalonza’s inspired mind awaits you at the end. But don’t forget, there’s has led to today. The Bell Tower Shops, Ft. Myers, dancing to be done. 1244 Periwinkle Way, 239/466-4141. Sanibel, 239/472-5555. Fort Myers Beach BOGERT’S CHOP HOUSE: Carnivorous FERNANDO’S OF MARTHA’S VINEYARD: Gourmet. Dry-aged, prime steaks may be the Northern Italian. Word of mouth is what brings 4675 Estero Blvd. focus here, but Nico Bogert certainly takes you here. Tucked behind Mid-Island Marina on the advantage of the global expansion our palates southern end of Ft. Myers Beach lies a restaurant at Mid-Island Marina have undergone in recent years. The Indonesian whose food is the reason behind the full tables. The behind Publix influences of his upbringing in Holland coupled focus is on fresh, from-scratch cooking—house- with stints in Italy and Paris have sprinkled the made mozzarella, hand-stuffed raviolis, signature menu and specials board with sophisticated dish- bread born in Boston and baked to order. Look 239-463-0026 es worthy of epicures everywhere. Veal, pork, and hard toward the Farfalle Fernando, Fusilli Tuscana, lamb chops as well as table-side cooking are or any of the veal dishes. Should the Lobster www.fernandositalian.com treats for those looking for more than a steak. Ravioli grace the special board that evening, con- Lots of warm woods, private rooms, and a hand- sider yourself obligated. Now, mange! 4675 Estero some bar are reminiscent of a big city speakeasy, Blvd., Ft. Myers Beach, 239/463-0026. 74 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2002 OPEN DAILY FRESH 11:30 A.M. IS THE Chef’s Profile: Earl Ross TO 10 P.M. BEST the natural flavors in food. Sushi,Teppanaki, Yakatori, you name it. It’s an art without being fancy.” THAT PROBABLY MAKES YOU AN IRON CHEF FAN? “I was watching the Japanese version before it ever showed up on Food Network.Those guys are amazing.” SO, WHO DO YOU WANT TO CHALLENGE IN KITCHEN STADIUM? “The Chinese Iron Chef (Chen Kinechi). Definitely. Chinese food is way cool. What he can do is very creative.” CASUAL BY GREG ROSS PHOTO HOW DOES THIS TRANSFER TO A SEAFOOD With a face like this, how could dinner go JOINT LIKE MCT’S? “It is all about using the TMOSPHERE wrong? Earl Ross, executive chef of McT's freshest ingredients and having the people A , Shrimp House & Tavern. who know how to cook it. I love all kinds GREAT FOOD of seafood. Every kind is unique and it is NAME: Earl Ross fun to combine the different flavors to cre- FRIENDLY TITLE: Executive Chef, McT’s Shrimp ate a great dish.” House & Tavern ANY PERSONAL FAVORITES? “I have a lot of SERVICE WEARING THE BIG WHITE HAT SINCE: favorites: Grilled Tuna with a Wasabi 1999 Guacamole.The tuna is grilled rare and set ••••• BACKGROUND: A decade of restaurant on a grilled pineapple with a sesame-oil HOMEMADE SOUPS work with stints in Italian (Linos, Morettis drizzle and julienne tomatoes.The hot and SPECIALTY SALADS & Pronto, all in Chicago), French, Mexican cold sensation works well.” and Japanese (Murasaki in Lansing, KITCHEN TOOL YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT: SEAFOOD BASKETS Michigan). “Tongs are part of my arm.” HERB & GARLIC WRAPS JAPANESE: “Something I hadn’t done. I love ANYTHING ELSE? “This is taking way FRIED SEAFOOD Asian food. It’s all about fresh ingredients longer than five minutes. Dude, I got to CERTIFIED ANGUS BEEF and simple cooking methods to bring out work.” FULL BAR ••••• THE ISLAND HOUSE: Neighborhood Grab the dining room into the lounge. This place hops Bag. The mid-island location makes this a natural year-round. The question is dinner, or dancing 2002 Taste of the locals’ spot on Sanibel, although the fact that the and drinks? The smart ones do it all. 1223 Islands Winner of: consistent, capable kitchen delivers quality meals Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, 239/472-1771. at a reasonable rate helps. The broad menu runs the gamut from seafood, pasta, and beef to JERRY’S: Family Fare. Welcome to the perfect BEST SEAFOOD - lunchtime lighter fare. The barbecued baby back breakfast. A coffee cup that is never empty, eggs STUFFED FLOUNDER ribs hold a special place in many islanders’ hearts done exactly to your style, a table next to and apparently quite a few judges’, if the awards Sanibel’s finest, and a waitress who calls you BEST APPETIZER - on the wall are any indication. Other notables “Hon.” Now that’s how you start a day. But there JALAPENO SHRIMP include Bayou Shrimp, Pecan Crusted Grouper, is more than breakfast to this family-style restau- and a Jambalaya chock-full of andouille sausage, rant conveniently located inside a supermarket. BEST OVERALL - shellfish, and spice. The adjoining Bungalow Big burgers and chicken sandwiches for lunch, wears the sports-bar/beer-joint theme well and prime rib and spaghetti nights for dinner fare. JUDGES CHOICE serves as an ample start or close to the evening. This is a locals’ joint that is not fancy, just good. BEST BOOTH 975 Rabbit Road, Sanibel Island, 239/472-8311. 1700 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, 239/472-9300. ••••• THE JACARANDA: Local Legend. Those who KEYLIME BISTRO: American Parrothead. Karaoke by DJ Bubba say you cannot be all things to all people have not Thank Sandra Stilwell and Randy Hunt for bring- Friday 8:30 p.m. set foot in “The Jac.” It’s a romantic, intimate din- ing a little local color into our lives. Make that a ner house, a relaxed, open-air gathering place, an heaping bunch of pastel-colored, energetic charm • energetic nightspot—all that and more. A selec- that engulfs you at the front door and fills you NTN Trivia Game tion from The Big Drink Menu sets the tone.
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