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Emilia-Romagna & San Marino ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Emilia-Romagna & San Marino Why Go? Bologna ......................435 Sweeping north from the Apennines to the fertile Po Val- Modena ......................448 ley, Emilia-Romagna boasts some of Italy’s most hospitable people, some of its most productive land and some of its Reggio Emilia .............456 most soul-satisfying food. Since antiquity, the verdant Po Parma .........................458 lowlands have sown enough agricultural riches to feed a Busseto & nation and finance an unending production line of luxury Verdi Country .............463 cars, regal palazzi (mansions), Romanesque churches, and Piacenza .....................464 a gigantic operatic legacy (Verdi and Pavarotti, no less). Ferrara ........................464 You can eat like a Roman emperor here, in the birthplace of tagliatelle al ragù, pumpkin-filled cappellacci pasta, Par- Ravenna .....................469 ma prosciutto, balsamic vinegar and parmigiano reggiano Rimini ......................... 473 (Parmesan). And then there’s Emilia-Romagna’s treasure San Marino ................. 478 trove of oft-neglected destinations: vibrant Bologna with its photogenic porticoes, Ravenna with its dazzling mosaics, posh Parma, Roman frontier-town-turned-beach-resort Ri- mini and the hilltop micro-nation of San Marino. Wherever Best Places to you go, you’ll be welcomed with the customary warmth of Eat Emilia-Romagna’s people. ¨ Trattoria Ermes (p452) ¨ Ca’ de Vèn (p472) ¨ All’Osteria Bottega (p444) When to Go ¨ Trattoria del Tribunale Bologna °C/°F (p461) Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 ¨ Casina del Bosco (p476) 20/68 6/150 10/50 4/100 Best Places to Stay 0/32 2/50 ¨ -10/14 0 B&B Pio (p460) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Arthotel Orologio (p443) May Enjoy pleas- Jun–Aug Summer Sep Ideal hiking ¨ Bologna nel Cuore (p443) ant weather on music festivals conditions in ¨ Alchimia B&B (p467) the Po plains and fill the agenda Parco Nazionale avoid summer from Bologna to dell’Appennino ¨ Foresteria San Benedetto crowds on Rimini’s Ravenna. Tosco-Emiliano. (p457) beaches. 435 EMILIA-ROMAGNA IV blocked construction by commissioning a new university on the basilica’s eastern flank. If you walk along Via dell’Archiginna- sio you can still see semi-constructed apses Bologna POP 380,000 poking out oddly. Fusing haughty elegance with down-to- Palazzo Comunale GALLERY earth grit in one beautifully colonnaded me- (Piazza Maggiore) F The palace that forms dieval grid, Bologna is a city of two intrigu- the western flank of Piazza Maggiore has ing halves. On one side is a hard-working, been home to the Bologna city council since hi-tech city located in the super-rich Po 1336. A salad of architectural styles, it owes valley where suave opera-goers waltz out of much of its current look to makeovers in regal theatres and reconvene in some of the the 15th and 16th centuries. On the 2nd EMILIA-ROMAGNA & SAN SAN & EMILIA-ROMAGNA nation’s finest restaurants and trattorias. On floor you’ll find the palazzo’s Collezioni the other is a Bolshie, politically edgy city Comunali d’Arte (%051 219 36 31; adult/re- that hosts the world’s oldest university and duced €5/3; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm is famous for its graffiti-embellished piazzas Sat & Sun) with its interesting collection of filled with mildly inebriated students swap- 13th- to 19th-century paintings, sculpture ping Gothic fashion tips. and furniture. The statue of Pope Gregory No small wonder Bologna has earned so XIII, the Bolognese prelate responsible for many historical monikers. La Grassa (the the Gregorian calendar, was placed above fat one) celebrates a rich food legacy (ragù the main portal in 1580, while inside, Do- or bolognese sauce originated here). La Dot- nato Bramante’s 16th-century staircase was ta (the learned one) doffs a cap to the city designed to allow horse-drawn carriages to university founded in 1088. La Rossa (the ride directly up to the 1st floor. Outside the M A red one) alludes to the ubiquity of the terra- palazzo are photos of hundreds of partisans R INO INO cotta medieval buildings adorned with miles killed in the resistance to German occupa- of porticoes, as well as the city’s longstand- tion, many on this very spot. E S BOLOG mi ing penchant for left-wing politics. All three I GH FOUNTAIN names still ring true. Bologna is the kind of Fontana del Nettuno L ia city where you can discuss Chomsky with a (Neptune’s Fountain; Piazza del Nettuno) Adjacent ts -RO leftie newspaper-seller one minute, and eat to Piazza Maggiore, Piazza del Nettuno owes na like a king in a fine restaurant the next. its name to this explicit bronze statue sculpt- ma ed by Giambologna in 1566. Beneath the G 1 Sights muscled sea god, four cherubs represent the na winds, and four buxom sirens, water spout- ing from every nipple, symbolise the four 1 Piazza Maggiore & the known continents of the pre-Oceania world. Quadrilatero Palazzo del Re Enzo PALACE All roads lead to pivotal Piazza Maggiore, (Piazza del Nettuno) This 13th-century palace flanked by the world’s fifth-largest basilica is named after King Enzo, the illegitimate and some impressive Renaissance palazzi. son of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who was held here by papal forces between oBasilica di San Petronio CHURCH (Piazza Maggiore; h7.45am-2pm & 3-6.30pm) Bo- 1249 and 1272. Dating to the same period, logna’s hulking Gothic basilica is the world’s the neighbouring Palazzo del Podestà fifth-largest church, measuring 132m by (Piazza Maggiore 1) was the original residence 66m by 47m. Work began on it in 1390, but of Bologna’s chief magistrate. Beneath the it was never finished and today its main fa- cade still remains incomplete. Inside, look MAKING THE MOST OF out for the huge sundial that stretches 67.7m YOUR EURO down the eastern aisle. Designed in 1656 by If you’re visiting multiple sights, a Bolo- Gian Cassini and Domenico Guglielmi, the gna Welcome Card (www.bologna sundial was instrumental in discovering welcome.com/en/richiedicard; 48hr card the anomalies of the Julian calendar and €20) may save you money. It offers led to the creation of the leap year. Origi- free museum admissions and public nal plans called for the basilica to be larger transport (including on the BLQ airport than Rome’s St Peter’s, but in 1561 Pope Pius shuttle bus) for a 48-hour period..
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