Emilia-Romagna & San Marino

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Why Go? Bologna...... 435 Sweeping north from the Apennines to the fertile Po Val- Modena...... 448 ley, Emilia-Romagna boasts some of Italy’s most hospitable people, some of its most productive land and some of its Reggio Emilia...... 456 most soul-satisfying food. Since antiquity, the verdant Po Parma...... 458 lowlands have sown enough agricultural riches to feed a Busseto & nation and finance an unending production line of luxury Verdi Country...... 463 cars, regal palazzi (mansions), Romanesque churches, and Piacenza...... 464 a gigantic operatic legacy (Verdi and Pavarotti, no less). Ferrara...... 464 You can eat like a Roman emperor here, in the birthplace of tagliatelle al ragù, pumpkin-filled cappellacci pasta, Par- Ravenna...... 469 ma prosciutto, balsamic vinegar and parmigiano reggiano Rimini...... 473 (Parmesan). And then there’s Emilia-Romagna’s treasure San Marino...... 478 trove of oft-neglected destinations: vibrant Bologna with its photogenic porticoes, Ravenna with its dazzling mosaics, posh Parma, Roman frontier-town-turned-beach-resort Ri- mini and the hilltop micro-nation of San Marino. Wherever Best Places to you go, you’ll be welcomed with the customary warmth of Eat Emilia-Romagna’s people. ¨¨Trattoria Ermes (p452) ¨¨Ca’ de Vèn (p472) ¨¨All’Osteria Bottega (p444) When to Go ¨¨Trattoria del Tribunale Bologna °C/°F (p461) Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 ¨¨Casina del Bosco (p476) 20/68 6/150

10/50 4/100 Best Places to Stay 0/32 2/50 ¨ -10/14 0 ¨B&B Pio (p460) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Arthotel Orologio (p443) May Enjoy pleas- Jun–Aug Summer Sep Ideal hiking ¨¨Bologna nel Cuore (p443) ant weather on music festivals conditions in ¨¨Alchimia B&B (p467) the Po plains and fill the agenda Parco Nazionale avoid summer from Bologna to dell’Appennino ¨¨Foresteria San Benedetto crowds on Rimini’s Ravenna. Tosco-Emiliano. (p457) beaches. 435 Emilia-Romagna & San Marino ESBologmiighliats-Rona magna

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with its interesting collection of are photos of hundreds of partisans are photos of hundreds may save you money. It offers It offers money. you save may MAKING THE MOST OF free museum admissions and public admissions museum free airport (including on the BLQ transport a 48-hour period. for shuttle bus) YOUR EURO YOUR gna Welcome Card Welcome gna welcome.com/en/richiedicard; multiple sights, a visiting multiple sights, If you’re €20) 13th- to 19th-century paintings, sculpture Gregory and furniture. ThePope of statue responsible forXIII, the Bolognese prelate was placed above calendar, the Gregorian the main portal in 1580, while inside, Do the western flank of Piazza Maggiore hasMaggiore Piazza of flank the western council since the Bologna city been home to of architectural1336. A salad it owes styles, in currentmuch of its look to makeovers the 15th and 16th 2nd centuries. On the floor you’ll the palazzo find is named after King Enzo, the illegitimate II, Frederick Emperor Roman Holy son of who was held here by papal forces between and 1272. 1249 to the same period,Dating the neighbouring ing from every nipple, symbolise the four known continents of the pre-Oceania world. Enzo del Re Palazzo del Nettuno) (Piazza 1) Maggiore (Piazza nato Bramante’s 16th-century staircase was Bramante’s nato to carriages designed to allow horse-drawn Outside theride directly the 1st up to floor. palazzo killed in the resistance to German occupa on this verytion, many spot. del Nettuno Fontana Fountain; (Neptune’s the Beneath by Giambologna in 1566. ed represent the four cherubs muscled sea god, spout sirens, water winds, and four buxom sio you can still can see semi-constructedsio you apses out oddly. poking Comunale Palazzo Maggiore) (Piazza €5/3; duced of Bologna’s chief magistrate. Beneath the Beneath chief magistrate. of Bologna’s Comunali d’Arte to Piazza Maggiore, Piazza del Nettuno owes Piazza del Nettuno to Piazza Maggiore, its name to this explicit sculpt bronze statue Sat & Sun) Sat IV blocked constructionblocked IV by commissioning eastern basilica’s the on a new university Via dell’Archiginna walk along If you flank.

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haughty elegance with down-to- haughty Sights Piazza Maggiore & the Petronio di San Basilica No small wonder Bologna has earned so small wonder No (the learned one) doffs a cap to the city (the learned one) doffs POP 380,000 nal plans called for the basilica to be larger Pius but in 1561 Pope St Peter’s, than Rome’s cade still remains incomplete. Inside, lookcade still remains incomplete. Inside, stretches sundial that out for the huge 67.7m down the eastern in 1656 by aisle. Designed Gian Cassini and Domenico Guglielmi, the sundial was instrumental in discovering and calendar anomalies of the Julian the Origi leap year. of the led to the creation o Maggiore; (Piazza hulking Gothic basilica is the world’s logna’s fifth-largest church, measuring 132m by began on it in 1390, but Work 66m by 47m. its main fa and today it was never finished Quadrilatero Piazza Maggiore, All roads lead to pivotal fifth-largest basilica by the world’s flanked palazzi Renaissance and some impressive 1 1 or bolognese sauce originated here). Laor bolognese sauce originated Dot founded in 1088. Launiversity Rossa(the the terra of the ubiquity one) alludes to red medieval buildings adorned with miles cotta longstand of porticoes, as the city’s as well ing penchant for left-wing politics. All three stillnames kind ofis the Bologna ring true. can discuss with a where you Chomsky city leftie newspaper-seller one minute, and eat the next. restaurant a king in a fine like ta ping Gothic fashion tips. La historical monikers. many Grassa (the legacy food rich a (ragù celebrates one) fat earth me in one beautifully colonnaded grit intrigu of two dieval is a city grid, Bologna hard-working,a is side one On halves. ing Po in the super-rich located hi-tech city waltz out of opera-goers valley where suave in some of the and reconvene regal theatres On and trattorias. restaurants finest nation’s politically edgythe other is a Bolshie, city and oldest university hosts the world’s that piazzas is famous for its graffiti-embellished students swap with mildly inebriated filled Bologna Fusing EMILIA-ROMAGNA