New England's Best Trips 4
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NEW ENGLAND’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 31 ROAD TRIPS Benedict Walker Isabel Albiston, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Gregor Clark, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to New England .............. 7 New England Highlights Map ......... 8 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu New England Highlights ................ 10 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- If You Like… ................................. 20 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly Need to Know ................................ 22 s Swimming a Air- City Guide ...................................... 24 Conditioning Pool New England By Region ............... 26 MAP LEGEND New England Classic Trips .......... 28 outes is Trip oute Trip Numbers Coastal New Trip Detour 1 England .................... 6–8 Days 31 Linked Trip Trip Stop Walk oute Fall Foliage Tollway Walking tour 2 Tour ........................... 5–7 Days 41 Freeway Primary Trip Detour Secondary Ivy League Tertiary Poulation 3 Tour ............................... 5 Days 51 Lane Capital National nsealed oad Capital PlaaMall StateProince Steps CityLarge Town Tunnel TownVillage Pedestrian Oerpass eas ON THE ROAD Walk TrackPath each Cemetery oundaies Christian International Cemetery Other StateProince Park MASSACHUSETTS ...........61 Cliff Forest eseration Cape Cod & ydoay rban Area 4 ierCreek Sportsground the Islands ........ 5–7 DAYS 65 Intermittent ier SwampMangroe ansot Pilgrim Canal Airport 5 Trail ..................4–5 DAYS 75 Water AT station DrySalt oston T station Intermittent Lake Cable Car Around lacier Funicular 6 Cape Ann ..........2–3 DAYS 83 MetroMuni station oute aes Parking Berkshire S National Hwy Subway station 7 S Interstate Hwy Trainailway Back Roads .......2–3 DAYS 91 State Hwy Tram nderground station 8 Mohawk Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Trail ..................2–3 DAYS 99 CONTENTS CONNECTICUT & VERMONT .......................169 RHODE ISLAND ...............113 Vermont’s Spine: f Route 100 .........3–4 DAYS 173 9 Rhode Island: East Bay ............3–4 DAYS 117 Cider Season g Sampler ............3–4 DAYS 183 a Rhode Island: Coastal Culture ..... 4 DAYS 125 Northeast h Kingdom to Quiet Camel’s Hump ....3–4 DAYS 191 b Corner ................... 3 DAYS 133 Lake Champlain Connecticut i Byway ............... 1–2 DAYS 199 c Wine Trail ............. 5 DAYS 141 Southern Lower j Vermont Loop ....2–3 DAYS 207 d River Valley ........... 4 DAYS 149 Litchfield e Hills Loop .............. 5 DAYS 157 Maine p265 Vermont p169 New Hampshire p219 Massachusetts p61 Connecticut & Rhode Island p113 3 Contents cont. NEW HAMPSHIRE ..........219 Great s North Woods ......... 3 DAYS 297 White k Mountains Loop ..... 3 DAYS 223 Lakes t Tour ...................... 2 DAYS 305 Connecticut l River Byway .......... 2 DAYS 231 Mainely u Art ........................ 3 DAYS 313 Lake m Winnipesaukee ..... 2 DAYS 239 Moose & v Mountains: Monadnock Western Maine ...... 2 DAYS 321 n Villages ................ 2 DAYS 247 o Woodland Heritage Trail ........ 2 DAYS 255 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS MAINE ............................265 Maritime New England Driving Guide .........331 p Maine ................... 5 DAYS 269 New England Travel Guide .......... 335 Acadia q National Park ........ 3 DAYS 279 Index ............................................. 345 Old r Canada Road ......... 2 DAYS 289 Massachusetts Buoys for lobster cages MICHAEL SEAN O’LEARY/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments help make BEHIND our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. THE com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your SCENES comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. WRITER THANKS to all the museum guides who for weather and your regional showed me around along the recs are much appreciated. BENEDICT WALKER way. Thanks also to Leah, Julie Thanks for key assistance Lynn A special thanks to Cheryl Cowie and Andrea for your warm Neumann and Randy Propster. and Keri Berthelot for their hospitality and to Trisha for Duby Thompson, thanks for guidance, support and Reiki II’s commissioning me for such lunch in Littleton! on the road. As always, to Trish a great project. Lastly, huge Walker for countless hours in the thanks to Ellie, Alan and Liz for ROBERT BALKOVICH prayer chair, and a big shout-out traveling out to join me at the end Thank you to my family – my to family; Andy, Sally and P for of my trip. mother, father and sister – making sure I didn’t overdo the and friends for their love and lobster! In memory of Kevin AMY C BALFOUR support. Special thanks to Hennessy, Ainsley Crabbe and Thank you Amy Scannell Michael, Raghnild, Elizabeth and Ben Carey, my fellow adventurers and Michael Billings for your Ming for their hospitality and who passed away in other lands hospitality and NH expertise. wealth of tips, and to Matthew for while I was researching this Eleanor Barnes and Whit your friendship on the road. And title. A little part of you remains Andrews, endless gratitude for thank you to Trisha Ping for this in Rhode Island for me, always. climbing Mt Washington with opportunity, and many others. You’ll like it there! me. Peaches and Genienne Hockensmith, thanks for sharing GREGOR CLARK ISABEL ALBISTON the best of Keene! Cheers to Thanks to the many fellow the crew atop New England at Thanks to everyone in Vermonters who shared their Mt Washington Observatory: Massachusetts who answered favorite spots in the Green Adam, Ian, Brian, Zach, Tessa, my questions so patiently and Mountain State with me this treated me so kindly, especially Bruce and Priscilla. Your passion THIS BOOK Senior Product Editors Martine Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Power, Victoria Smith Samantha Cook, Lucy Cowie, This 4th edition of New England’s Peter Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Best Trips was researched and Product Editor Kate James Kellie Langdon, Kristin Odijk, written by Benedict Walker, Senior Cartographer Mani Ramaswamy, Monica Isabel Albiston, Amy C Balfour, Alison Lyall Woods Robert Balkovich, Gregor Clark, Assisting Cartographer Cover Researcher Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Anita Banh Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. Meri Blazevski Book Designer Gwen Cotter This guidebook was produced by Thanks to Evan Godt, Claire the following: Assisting Editors Imogen Naylor, Karyn Noble, Amanda Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Destination Editor Trisha Ping Williamson 343 edition – especially Shawn Irene Koenig of Stonington, and certain delightful beach (which O’Neil, Margo Whitcomb, Jim and Eileen Flynn of Mystic. is not in this book). Thanks Victoria St John, Jim Lockridge Thirdly (and crucially), to Trisha for sharing your secret spot. I and Joy Cohen – and to Gaen, Ping at Lonely Planet who gave won’t tell. Meigan and Chloe for a lifetime me such a delightful assignment. of companionship on our family REGIS ST LOUIS adventures in this gorgeous ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS place we call home. I am grateful to countless Climate map data adapted innkeepers, park rangers, from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & baristas and shop owners and McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated ADAM KARLIN folks ‘from away’ who provided BEHIND THE SCENES World Map of the Köppen- Thanks to: Trisha Ping for letting shared Maine insight. Special Geiger Climate Classification’, me poke around the Pine Tree thanks to Brother Arnold for a Hydrology and Earth System state, the Barclays for hosting fabulous meal at Sabbathday Sciences, 11, 1633 44. us, friends and family and kind Shaker Village, Scott Cowger strangers met along the way, for the tips and barn tour in Front cover photographs and Rachel and Sanda, my two Hallowell, Jack Burke and Julie (clockwise from top): favorite partners for climbing Van De Graaf for their kindness Church, Vermont, Susanne up rocks and swimming in the in Castine, and Gregor Clark and Kremer/4Corners Images ©; cold ocean. Diane Plauche for general Maine Fall produce, Vermont, Pietro suggestions. Special thanks to Canali/4Corners Images ©; BRIAN KLUEPFEL my family, who make coming Corvette, Barnstable, Massachusetts, Ken First and always, to my wife home the best part of travel. Wiedemann/Getty Images © Paula, my co-pilot in life. Secondly, to all my kinfolk who MARA VORHEES Back cover photograph: Portland helped on this journey: June To the server at a Gloucester Head Light, Maine, amolson7/ and Alan Kluepfel (formerly of restaurant, who recommended Getty Images © Noank), Neil Kluepfel and his wife that I spend my afternoon at a 344 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd INDEX Boston 24-5, 35, 39, 79-80, Charlemont 102 A 81, 106-7 Charlestown 236 Abington 138 Bourne 77 Chester 153-4, 155 Acadia National Park 12, Brattleboro 208-9, 213 climate 22, 340 279-87 Bretton Woods 48, 226, 229 Colchester 151-2 accessible travel 336 breweries 20 Concord (MA) 55 accommodations 23, 336-8 Brewster 68-9, 73 Concord (NH) 54, 59 activities 20 Bridgewater Corners 186 Connecticut 113-67 air