Miami Offers Ultimate in Fusion Cuisine
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cruise from the Port of Miami offers Miami in 2001. ultimate in Home of seafood icon: Joe's Stone Crab cracked 491.692 fusion cuisine Miami's many faces pounds and shipped Chefs celebrate the city's global melting more than 11 ,000 Air hub: Miami handled orders of stone crabs ROAD pot with seafood from all over the world $549 million, or 59 in 2001. percent, of the air- By Lisa Duchene freighted imports that Culinary gateway: Miami tourist vest off the coast of entered the United Florida restaurant On the States in 2001. By vol- seafood sales are Ain search of northern Australia. ume, 65 percent, or the trendiest new fish Reidt, Hutson and about $1 billion annu- 290 million pounds, of ally. prepared by the city's Oudin are among a air-freighted imports hottest chefs can group of Miami chefs entered the country via Miami in 2001. Seafood supplier: choose from dishes embracing barramun- South Florida pro- duced more than 16 inspired by many dif- di, a farm-raised fish Tourist haven: 10.5 million pounds of ferent cultures. that's a cross between million tourists visited seafood valued at Miami in 2001, and 3 Thanks to air wild striped bass and more than $40 million million people took a freight and Miami's snook. These chefs in 2001. silt tire as a major typify the latest U.S. entry point for development on try gives the city a Hutson serves it imported fresh Miami's culinary huge appetite for Asian-style, with an seafood, chefs like seafood scene, which seafood. And that orange-ginger glaze Cindy Hutson at blends ethnic flavors demand is readily in an orange broth Ortanique, Pascal from all corners of met, since Miami's with edamame Oudin at Pascal's in the world. proximity to Central (Japanese soybeans) Coral Gables and E. Miami's identity and South America for $30 to $32. And Michael Reidr at as an international makes it a key Oudin wraps it in pas- seafood distribution try, bakes it and hub. serves it with candied But Latin America tomato and is by no means the Mediterranean condi- sole source of supply ments for $23.95. for Miami's A respected local importers, who search supplier of exotic the world to bring specs is Triar chefs unique fish like Seafood. In the six barramundi and months since the Tasmanian sea trout company began to Cargo from a Polar Air cargo 747, including Chilean from Australia. import barramundi, salmon fillets from Santiago, is unloaded and sent on its Reidt serves bar- sales climbed to near- way almost as quickly as it arrives. ramundi with roasted ly $1 million, says pumpkin, Peter Jarvis, president Wish in South Beach melting pot, tourist chanterelles, sweet of the Hollywood, can have barramundi destination and key corn, lobster and a Fla., company. Whole in their kitchens with- departure point for coconut broth for $28. H&C barramundi in 36 hours of its har- the cruise-line indus- wholesales for $5 to served over aromatic regional or imported trendy South Beach $8 a pound. jasmine rice. fish with a full array strip, Reidt, executive Miami no longer Hutson's profes- of ethnic ingredients. chef of Wish, a Mobil bases its cuisine on sional cooking career "I am just very four-star restaurant at one cultural influence, began at a tiny intent on the best The Hotel, made a like Nuevo Latino, the Jamaican restaurant quality," says Hutson. name for himself with decade-old movement called Norma's on the "To me, as a culinary his French-Brazilian of "new" Latin food Reach in Miami's artist, I'm having a cooking, a label he's ROAD that originated in South Beach, which fantastic time. I love trying to shake. It is Miami and sparked a she opened in 1994 going into my kitchen more important to national trend, but on with her partner, every day. I love the work with good ideas On the a global melting pot Delius Shirley. His diversity of fish." and techniques than to of flavors says Jarvis. mother, Eighty percent of worry about rules that In 2001, about Norma the seafood on the come with cultural 10.5 million tourists menu is local influences, he says. visited Miami and an species like I don't think a par- additional 3 million stone crab, ticular cultural idea people boarded cruise snapper, should have guide- ships at the Port of lines," say's Reidt. "I Executive Chef Miami. E. Michael Reidt was never one to Walking around hand picks seafood color inside the lines." the city, you'll hear for the menu at Wish Local species like in trendy South Beach. many languages and Shirley, is snapper, grouper and accents spoken by a Jamaican chef grouper, spiny lobster, pompano play a minor European tourists or dubbed the "Julia Key West shrimp and role on Reidt's menu, "transplants" from the Child of Jamaica" by pompano. The which is 60 percent Caribbean islands, or Food and Wine maga- remainder is seafood seafood. Instead, Central or South zine. products Hutson has Reidt creates dishes America. Hutson learned discovered in her trav- around Japanese octo- Miami's culinary how to judge a fish's els, including pus, sea scallops and scene reflects the freshness during her Mediterranean mus- New England monk- city's diversity. Asian, many years working sels and species fish, skate and oys- South American, as captain of a sport- her supplier brings to ters. Caribbean. fishing charter boat, her attention, like bar- Reidt spent three Mediterranean and and at Ortanique she ramundi. That years cooking in North American fla- accepts only the fresh- Australian species Hawaii before return- vors all enhance est fish. will be the next big ing in 1998 to his Hutson's menu at When Hutson and fish to hit the U.S. hometown of Boston Ortanique. One early Shirley opened market, predicts to work for two years November night, Ortanique in Coral Hutson. Ortanique’s at Zinc. When the Hutson Featured her Gables in 1999, menu is growing restaurant in Boston's signature West Indian Hutson stepped away increasingly diverse, Back Bay closed, he bouillabaisse of from purely Jamaican as Hutson is now a opened Bomboa, then Florida lobster tail, food and began call- guest chef aboard the left the partnership in Mediterranean mus- ing her cooking Radisson Hotels' 1 0- mid-2001 for sunny sels, Key West "Cuisine of the Sea." day culinary cruises to Miami to become shrimp, diver scallops a description she feels the Caribbean and executive chef at and mahimahi in a allows her freedom to Mediterranean Seas. Wish, where he hand- curried coconut broth prepare seasonal, In the heart of the picks seafood for his menu, mostly from promoting seafood New England and from around the world Florida. at Disney's Epcot Pascal Oudin, Center in Orlando. owner of Pascal's on "In my new book, Ponce in Coral [barramundi] is one of Gables, also brings in the top fish on the Miami is the home port for many cruise ship companies, a lot of fish from market," says Oudin. which pamper guests with seafood such as smoked salmon, shrimp and Maine lobster. ROAD northern waters, like The barramundi But American Airlines with an average 1 5 Dover sole, turbot, imported into Miami by far has the most percent annual growth loup de mer, dorade, is a mere fraction of flights - about 200 in trade between On the cod and halibut. the millions of pounds daily - in and out 0f Miami and Latin He says that of seafood shipped Miami, although all America. except for Triar, he's from South and carry both passengers The increase in had trouble finding Central America into and cargo. U.S. imports of high-quality seafood the city and then MIA has the infra- Chilean salmon is part from big Florida sup- moved by truck and structure to move of that growth. pliers, says Oudin. He air throughout the rest fresh seafood, fruits, Chilean salmon has been cooking in of the country. vegetables and flow- makes up about half Miami for 20 years. Most of the fresh ers fast, as perishables the volume of the As the fish flown into the make up 73 percent of seafood handled by exec- United States its incoming cargo. Boston distributor arrives at On an early Slade Gorton's Miami Miami November Monday facility. Since all of International afternoon, for exam- the seafood moving Airport. MIA ple, a Polar Air Cargo through the plant Delius Shirley and Cindy had just unloaded pal- (about a half million Hutson call let after pallet of pounds weekly) is utive Ortanique's packed, iced Chilean fresh, turnaround time chef of cooking "Cuisine of the salmon fillets from is quick. the Grand Sea." Santiago via Sao Tuna, snappers Bay Hotel in Coconut handled 59 percent (or Paulo, Brazil. Cargo is mahimahi, wahoo and Grove, Oudin $549 million) of the unloaded and sent on swordfish also are explored total value and 65 per- its way almost as fast trucked in from the Caribbean/French cent (more than 290 as it comes in, says airport, inspected for food, but is now going million pounds) of the Schreiber. quality control, bro- hack to classical total volume of U.S. MIA is expanding ken down into Slade French cooking. air imports in 2001. cargo capacity with a Gorton's orders for "French people - LanChile tranports $500 million cargo other we have a limitation the most seafood into development program distributors/whole- on how crazy we can Miami International that will add 15 new salers or retail chains get with food," says Airport, both in cargo buildings and and either trucked or Oudin.