HISTORY OF MADURAI

the cylonese chronicle refers to the Pandya Madurai , the cultural capital of Tamilnad Empire. has a very long and continuous history of more than 2500 years. It was a center of academics Ptolamy (75 AD) and Pliny (130 AD) the where enormous early Tamil literary works foreign writers had mentioned Madurai in their flourished. This city served as the royal capital of travelogues. Two Tamil Bhrami inscriptions one Pandya rulers who established their regime even from Mettupatti and another from Alagarmalai before the Christian era. Pandya rulers are mention the name of this city as Mathirai. hese mentioned in the Asokan rock edicts dated to 300 records are assigned to the 3 rd century BCE. BCE as well as in Mahabaratha and Ramayana, Anaimalai (Elephant Hill) An ancient hill, the two great epics of India. The existence of naturally looking like an elephant, lies at 8km Madurai city is proved beyond doubt by both distance from Madurai city is a quite inscriptional records as well as literacy evidences. interesting place to see. Though the elephant Kathyayana, the grammarian lived in the figure is a natural one it consists itself many 4th century BCE mentions the Pandyas. Kautilya, man made historical and cultural values. the author of Arthasasthra, describes the One very important historical record is significance of pearls and muslin clothes engraved on the drip ledge of a natural cavern produced at Pandya country. The Sanskrit found at the terrace of the hill. This document classical writers like Varahamihira and Kalidasa is engraved in the ancient Bhrami characters also mention the Pandyas and Madurai. Madurai and dated to 1 century CE. In this cavern more has good trade contact with Greek and Roman than 20 rock beds were scooped off for the stay people. One Pandya king has sent an ambassador of the Jain mendicants. This record mentions to the Roman king Augustus’ court. Mahavamsam 1 the name of the hill as Iva kundram. The this type of penetration was made by all religions Prakrit prefix Ivam means elephant and in the places of importance of other sects. Like kundram means hill. These rock beds were wise at Anaimalai, 2 cave temples were scooped made and donated for Jains by two donors Eri out, one for Narashirmha- Vishnu, and the other Arithan and Aratta Kayipan. one for Lord Muruga. Both these Gods are considered as vibrant and heroic in their deeds in Due to the advent of Bhakthi movement their respective religions. Narashirmha cave was and by the serious efforts of Thirugnana made during 770CE by one Marankari, the sampantha, jainism had to face a setback minister of Pandya King Varaguna I(768 AD – during 7 th CE in the whole of Pandya country. 815AD). Murugan cave now called as Ladan Thirugnana sampantha also mentions temple was also carved during almost in the same Anaimalai in one of his devotional songs, called period. The successive rulers of this area Devaram, as a strong abode of Jains. But when continuously patronized the Narashirmha cave the time turned to be convenient again jains re temple. Thus, Anaimalai has served as a great habituated at this hills with the patronization centre of religious harmony and cultural citadel of the then Pandya rulers and local people. for the past 2000 years. During this time the minds of both Saivites and Jains had changed. Saivites were ready to lend Arittapatti: This small village lies at a 25km their helping hands for the Jains to re install distance on Madurai Melur Main road. The name their religious monuments and the Jains also itself reveals its association with Jain religion. were ready to accept the idol worship and Arittanemi, a Jain monk who lived around admission of women in their religious fold Madurai, is mentioned in one record.Neminatha equally. So, during 9 th – 10 th century CE, a the 22 nd Thirthankara had another name galaxy of Jain images were carved by the Jains Arittanemi.So the village might have been named and they were patronized by royal officers, after that Thirthangara. In this village also there is Brahmin sabhas and private individuals. a natural cavern in which number of rock beds Figures of Mahavira, Parsvanatha, Ambika were chiseled out for the convenient stay of Jain yakshi are all seen now with a good state of mendicants. On the forehead of this rock cave two preservation. The inscriptions engraved below early Tamil Brahmi inscriptions are engraved. each sculpture reveal the persons who were They are assigned to 3 rd century BCE and are caused to cut these things. This place considered among the earliest records found Anaimalai has also served as a treasure house around Madurai. The two Brahmi inscriptions of fine arts which is well attested by the murals reveal that the Pandya rulers of this area were found on the sculptures. Jain monks not only caused to cut this rock shelter for the Jains. preach their religion among people but they These rulers were hailed from the present educated them by making their cave residence Thirunelveli region which was also a fertile land as schools, they provided medical aid to the mass included in the Pandyan country. sick people and gave asylum to the needy. Just 10 meters away from the cave on the Thus this place serves as a symbol of religious face of the rock one bas- relief sculpture of tolerance and center for academic fine arts. Mahavira is carved out. From the inscription In the mean time, Vedic religions such as found below the sculpture we come to know the Saivism ans Vaisnavism had also struck their name of the village, name of the hill and the roots at this important place.All over TamilNadu people who caused to cut this image. The name of 2 the hill is mentioned as Thiruppinaiyanmalai But this hill has another side of the (Now it is called as kalinja malai). On behalf of history also. This hill also served as an important some officials this image was carved by one Jain centre where 13 Tamil Bhrami inscriptions Ajjanandhi, a famous ain Saint,who lived during were found engraved. One of these inscriptions 9-10 C AD at Madurai. mentions the name Mathirai, the ancient city. Here a number of Jain beds were carved for the The people of the village Pathirikudi were stay of Jain monks within the natural cavern. accepted to safeguard this stone image. This Merchants of various trades were named in these Pathirikudi may be considered as the original inscriptions who might have liberally donated to ancient name of the present village Arittapatti. make these stone beds. Salt merchant, sugar Traces of ancient paintings are also seen on the merchant, iron merchant, cloth merchant and Mahavira image. one goldsmith are mentioned in these records.A This village has also some significant Jain nun is also found mentioned in these features to be mentioned. On the other side of the records. These inscriptions are dated to 1 BCE. hill Kalinja malai, an early Pandyan cave temple The famous Jain saint Acchananthi also has (8 Century CE) dedicated to Siva is found. This stayed at this hill and caused to carve out a stands as the typical example for a Pandyan cave Mahavira image during 9 – 10 th BCE. temple with a central shrine and a front mantapa. The present Alagar temple situated below Sivalinga , located in the central shrine is this hill is also an ancient one, which was scooped from the natural rock itself. Two mentioned in early sangam literature and the Dwarapalaka images (Gate keepers) and great epic Silapathikaram. It was sanctified by six sculptures of Lord Ganesh and Lakulisa Siva Vaisnavite saints (Alwars). Thirumalai Nayak has carved in the niches, one on either side of the constructed one beautiful theatre hall in this mantapa are worthy of mention. Now this temple place. Painting gallery is also one among the is named as Idaichi mantapa by the local folk. notable places. It is also considered as one of the One more ruined Siva temple is also six sacred abodes of Lord Muruga (Palamudirsolai located in this village,in which only basement - Arupadaividu). alone is remaining. On the base a later Pandya So this place is also an important centre inscription dated to 13 CE is engraved form of religious harmony and cultural synthesis. which we come to know the village name Pathirikudi and the king Vikrama pandya who Mangulam: This village lies at a 20km caused to construct this temple. So, this village distance to the north of Madurai in the highway also served both as a Jain centre as well as a that leads from Madurai to Melur. Very near to saivite centre. this village another small hamlet called Meenakshipuram in which an ancient adobe of Alagarmalai: Alagar means a handsome Jains is seen in the hill called Ovamalai or person. His hill abode is called as Kalugumalai. There are five caves and more than Alagarmalai.This Vaisnavite God, one among the sixty stone beds in which six early Tamil Bhrami Hindu trinity, every year in the month of chithirai inscriptions are found. These are the earlier full moon day (April - May) is usually brought. record discovered during 1886 and dated back to This is a great festival celebrated every year by 3rd BCE. Two records in this place contains the the Maduraites with great pomp and joy.

3 name of Nedumchezhiyan,a famous Pandya king More than this, two more bas relief sculptures of who ruled Madurai during the sangam period. Jaina Thirthankara were also carved here one at the foot of the hill behind the present day In all these six caves stone beds were Palaniyandavar temple and another one at the scooped for the stay of Jain monks. Not only top of the hill. Below these images two vatteluthu Kings , their officials and relatives but also inscriptions also are carved which reveal the members of merchant community people donated connection with the Jainschools situated at for the making of stone beds. Nigama, a Kurandi , a village at a distance of 20 kms from mercantile guild served in the nearby village Madurai on Aruppukkotai road. Vellaripatty is referred to in one of these inscriptions. These beds were made for the stay of Nowadays this hill is very famous for the a monk Gani Nanda Sri Kuvan and his disciples. worship of Muruga (Karthikaya). In the sangam Not only Brahmi inscriptions but traces of pre- Literature Akananuru, this hill is mentioned as historic paintings are also noticed in this hill. an abode of Lord Muruga. But the present day One brick structure might have been a temple is a cave temple carved during 773 CE by meditation hall is also unearthed during the one military General Sathan Ganapathi. Before excavation conducted by the state dept of the creation of this cave temple this place was Archaeology in the year 2007. worshipped as a temple of Siva Thirupparankundram udaiyar and it was sung by Thirupparankundram: This hill lies 8km Devaram hymnist Gnanasampantha and Thiru south of Madurai city on Madurai – Virudhunagar Navukkarasa, during 7 th CCE. After that the cave Main Road. Even though this hill is considered was carved. Now in this cave Siva and Vishnu are one among the six sacred abodes of Lord Muruga, housed in the opposite cells, Vinayaka, Durga it has vestiges of Jainism which attest to its and Muruga are carved in the niches. existence since sangam period (2C BCE). On the western end of this small hill there is a small Above the hill there is a Darha in the cleavage in which rock beds are scooped out for name of Sikkanthar sha, who ruled Madurai for the stay of Jain mendicants. Three early Tamil some years during 14 CCE. Brahmi inscriptions are engraved on the beds of Samanamalai (Jain Hill): The name of the this cave. One record mentions that an individual hill itself explains its association with Jainism. from Erukkattur, who was a grahasta of cylone This hill lies in the village Kilakuyilkudi, 15km was caused to be carved these beds. Another west of Madurai near Nagamalai Pudukkotai record mentions the name Anthuvan who village. In this village three important Jain donated for the carvings of the beds. One more vestiges are found which speak about the mutilated record mentions the existence of a existence and flourishing nature of Jainism spring. during 9 -10 CCE. Besides these early beds and records one It is a picturesque place with a lotus pond cave temple dedicated to Jaina Thirthankara was at the foot of the hill Samanamalai. At the top of also chiseled out on the southern side of the rock. the hill one natural water spring is seen and It was dated to 8-9 CCE and it is named as galaxy of Jain images are carved on the face of Umaiyandar koil. This temple was later converted the rock. This place is called as Pechchipallam. into a Siva temple during 13 CE and the Jaina Pechchi is a term denoting a demi goddess found Thirthankara image was changed as Arthnarisiva. in the villages of TamilNadu. Pechchi is a 4 corrupted form of Yakshi, the attendant lady ferociously fighting with a man who is seated on deity of Jainism. In this rock,sculptures of an elephant. Below these sculptures are Mahavira , Parsvanatha and Bagubali inscriptions which give the names of the persons (Gomatisvara) are carved. Below every sculpture who carved these images. inscriptions are also engraved which give the Around Madurai eight Jain hills existed details of the individuals who caused to carve and it is mentioned as an ancient verse. Among these images. These inscriptions also give the this eight Samanamalai (Thiru uruvagam) is also particulars regarding the existence of a very important hill center of Jainism during 8 -10 residential school at this place and the names of CCE. the persons who managed the school and the Muthupatti: It is another village just behind students studied here. It had a contact with the the Samanamalai two km away.This hill is other school which functioned at Kurandi near variously named as Aviyur located at Madurai- Aruppukottai main Karadipattimalai,Perumalmalai etc. This hill road. Names of some visiting professors from consists of three ancient Tamil Bhrami records Mulasanga of Sravana bela gola are also engraved and Jain Beds. These records reveal the name of on the top most terrace of the hill. the persons who carved out these beds. Two A structural temple of Jains called Madevi persons one called Musiri Kodan and Nagaperur Perumpalli was constructed at this hill by a Anthai had carved one bed. Another inscription Pandya king Parantaka Viranarayana (860 – 905 mentions one Saiyalan from Vinudaiyur had CCE). Only the stone base is remaining here with made these beds. One more damaged record gives an inscription belonging to the same king’s the other name Thidi Kaththan who also carved period. these carvings. All these three records are dated From this record we come to know the to 1 CCE. The nearby village names viz Vandiyur, name of the village as Uyirkudi and the hill as Nagamalai, Thidiyan maybe identified from these Thiruuruvagam. The name is changed as three records. Amirthaparakramanallur. Details of some lands Besides these rock beds and early Brahmi nearby the village donoted to this Jain temple is inscriptions, two Thirthankara images are also also known from this record. carved out as bas relief on the face of the boulder. Settipodavu: Behind the Jain hill just 200mt Below these sculptures inscriptions are also away one more cave is found which is now named engraved which reveal the name of the village as by the locals as settipodavu. Here on the face of Amirthaparakramanallur and the Jain ascetics the rock there is a huge image of Mahavira is who caused to carve these images. These records carved as bas- relief. This image looks like a and figures maybe assigned to 9 – 10CCE. chettiyar (moneylender community of TamilNadu) Kongarpuliyankulam: This village lies at and so the name of the cave (Podavu - hole) is Madurai – Theni main road at 20km distance. called Settipodavu. Inside the cave there are five Here on the western end of the Nagamalai range sculptures.Among them three represent one natural cavern is found in which more than Mahavira, one Ambikayakshi and another one sixty rock beds are carved for the stay of Jain Korrariya. The last one is very interestingly ascetics. Three early Tamil Brahmi inscriptions shown as a fighting scene. The lady figure are also engraved on the base of the rock. (Korrariya yakshi) is seated on a lion and Dripledges are carved to drain the rain water 5 away from the cave. Below this dipledge three Uthayagiri. On the brow of this hill (Subramanya inscriptions are seen.Upasan Uparuvan, Sera hill) there are three Tamil Bhrami inscriptions. Athan, Paganur Pethaan Pitan, three individuals One record reveals the name Ilanathan who had carved out these rock beds. These records carved this bed. Another two are somewhat are dated to 1C BCE. Just 20mts west of these damaged records which also reveal the same beds on the face of other side of the rock a message. These three records belong to 2C BCE. Mahavira image is carved out which maybe In this cave more than 20 beds are carved out for assigned to 9 -10 CCE. Below this image a small Jains. inscription also seen from which we come to Very near to this cave one early Pandya cave know the Saint Accanandhi has caused to carve temple also seen which is dedicated to Siva and this image. Thus this Jain centre existed since 1C named as Uthayagirisvara temple. Just behind BCE to 10 CCE is well attested by three records. this cave another cave temple is also found with a Varicciyur: This village lies at a 15km Siva linga in the Sanctum Sanctorum and is distance from Madurai on Sivaganga road. Very called Asthagirisvara. These two caves are the near to this village there is a small hillock called works of early Pandyas dated to 8CCE

Script by: Dr.C.Santhalingam

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