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Home , Edge Banding, Sawhorse

WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2014 - 2015 SAWHORSE DESK

Create the ultimate workstation in your study, den, or bedroom with this sawhorse desk that is as attractive as it is practical. The top is perfect for your desktop or laptop and offers plenty of room for stacking your books, folders, and other important items. Plus the sawhorse shelves come in handy for even more storage space. You can also customize the dimensions to suit your needs. Make it wider and deeper so you can really spread out, or shorter and shallower if you need to fit it into a particular space. At any size, it’s a great project for intermediate woodworkers to expand their skills in making angle cuts, precision assembly, and edge-banding with biscuits. And after you build it, you’ll learn more about applying stain and using clear protective finishes to protect your project and keep it looking beautiful.

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TOOLS REQUIRED SHOPPING LIST Hand Recommended : , solid and veneer – Framing Parts Material Quantity – Clamps for gluing A, H 3/4" oak veneer plywood 1/2" sheet, 24" x 96" B, C, E, F, G, I, J, K, L, M 1x8 solid 2 @ 8' Power Tools 1x6 solid 1 @ 8' – Table D 11/2" x 11/2" solid 2 @ 8' – Biscuits #10 64 – Flathead woodscrews #8 x 11/4" 20 – #8 x 1 17 – Compressed-air pin and brad nailers 1/2" – or drill driver – Orbital or finish CUTTING AND PARTS LIST Part Name Qty Dimension Note Miscellaneous A Desk top 1 3/4" × 22" × 58" Plywood – Tape measure B Top bands, ends 2 3/4" × 13/8" × 22" Solid – – C Top bands, long edges 2 3/4" × 13/8" × 603/4" Solid – Safety glasses D Sawhorse Legs 8 11/2" × 11/2" × 271/2" Solid – 120- and 220-grit E Upper and lower rail 8 3/4" × 21/2" × 22" 5-degree on top edge – Sanding block – Clean, lint-free cloths F Upper crosspiece 4 3/4" × 21/2" × 41/4" Length is across top edge – Respirator G Lower crosspiece 4 3/4" × 21/2" × 81/4" Length is across top edge – Gloves for H Shelf panel 2 " × 7 " × 16 " Plywood – Mineral spirits, for cleanup of 3/4 1/8 1/4 oil-based finishes I Shelf bands, ends 4 3/4" × 13/8" × 71/8" Solid – Good quality, natural-bristle brush J Shelf bands, long edges 4 3/4" × 13/8" × 19" Solid (for oil-based finishes) K Screw blocks 4 3/4" × 11/2" × 7" Solid or Plywood L Sawhorse cap 2 3/4" × 6" × 24" Solid M Desk top stiffener 1 3/4" × 3" × 34" Solid

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS Recommended Finish Alternate Finish Prep: Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based) Prep: Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner Stain: Minwax® Gel Stain, Red (oil-based) Clear Finish: Minwax® Wipe-On Poly, Satin Stain/Clear Finish: Minwax® PolyShades®, Royal Walnut

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN 8. Cut the long banding pieces, C, a couple of inches longer than the specified dimension. Join them to the long edge with eight evenly Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make spaced #10 biscuits per edge. Glue the banding and use cauls and the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always several bar clamps as you did with the end bands. discuss them with your shop instructor. • Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting 9. Trim the ends of the long banding flush with the end of the top a to the project . bands using a fine-tooth handsaw. Draw a cut line using the end bands • Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles. Wear the as a guide. Allow the saw to barely kiss the edge of the end banding, appropriate respirator whenever making or working providing alignment for the saw, and cut off the excess. with thinners or other solvents. • At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and 10. To make the sawhorse parts D,E,F,G, start by ripping them to their put away all portable tools. specified widths. CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY 11. For the legs, D, and the crosspieces, F and G, set the miter saw at 95º to get the 5º angle cuts they require. Make a single master piece of 1. For overall guidance, see Fig. 1. Start by ripping the plywood desk each part and use it to locate a stop block so that all the other pieces top, A, to rough width on the . At this stage it should will be identical in length (See Fig. 1). At this time, cut the same angle be 23" wide, 1" wider than specified. across a 3” to 4” wide piece of scrap; this will be the test piece you use to set up the table saw blade angle in Step 15. 2. Crosscut one end of the top square. You can accomplish this by striking a line square to a long edge with a framing square. Even when 12. Return the miter saw to square cutting, make one master for the working on a factory edge, strike the squaring line 1/16" to 1/8" from it. upper and lower rails, E, and then use a stop block to make the rest. a guide board (whose edge has been jointed) to the line and use a router equipped with a pattern-cutting bit to cut to the line 13. Use the miter saw to cut the screw blocks, K, and sawhorse cap, J, (See Fig. 2). to their finished lengths.

Woodworker’s Tip: When using this crosscutting technique, plan 14. Cut the upper and lower rails, E, to length using a stop block on it so you’ll only be cutting off 1/16" to 1/8" of the material. Trying to the miter saw. cut deeper will result in a poor, uneven cut. 15. Rip a 5º bevel on the top edges of the upper and lower rails, E. To 3. Mark the finished length of the top, 58", and once again use a set this angle on the table saw, place the test piece with the 95º end cut framing square to strike a line square to the long edge. Use a against the blade and adjust the blade until it’s aligned with the angle or to cut 1/16" to 1/8"outside that line, and then the guide (See Fig. 3). board and router to trim the cut to the squaring line. 16. Sand all parts prior to assembly. 4. Rip and all the banding pieces, B,C,I,J, to width, 13/8". Cut the desk top end pieces, B, about 1" longer than the specified length. 17. To assemble the sawhorses, you’ll make four identical leg sets. Start by gluing and pinning (with a compressed-air pin nailer) the 5. Cut three #10 biscuit slots in the ends of the desk top and in the upper crosspiece, F, to the inside faces of the legs so that the ends of mating banding. Locate two biscuits 2" on center from each plywood the crosspiece are dead flush with the outside edge of each leg. Use edge and one in the center. Transfer those marks to the banding clamps to ensure a strong bond; pins alone won’t do it (See Fig. 4). pieces. Plan to join the end banding to the plywood so that one end is about 1/8" in from the long edge and the other end runs out from the 18. Mark a line 4" from the bottom end of the legs to locate the other edge. bottom edge of the lower crosspiece, G.

6. Glue and clamp the end banding in place using at least four 19. Glue and pin G in place, making the ends flush with the bar clamps. outside edge of each leg. Clamp the ends of the crosspiece to the legs (See Fig. 4). Woodworker’s Tip: Use a pair of cauls—long, straight strips of wood—between the clamps and the banding to distribute the 20. Repeat steps 17, 18, and 19 for the other three leg sets. Use the clamp pressure and ensure the jaws don’t mar the banding. first set you made as a master and match the others to it.

7. Rip the top to its final width. Do this in two cuts by placing one 21. Glue and brad the rails, E, to the leg assembly. Position the edge against the rip with an oversized width setting—say beveled top edge of the rails even with the top edge of the 221/2"—and cutting through both the overlong banding and the crosspieces and flush with the outer edges of the legs. plywood. Then put that edge against the fence set for the final width, 22”, and make the cut.

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22. Make the banded shelves from the H, I, and J pieces the same way • All stains and clear protective finishes must be allowed to dry you made the desk top. Glue the short banding, I, to the ends using thoroughly between coats. Remember that drying times can vary two biscuits, then rip the shelves to their final width, 161/4", in two cuts. due to temperature, humidity, and other climatic conditions. Then glue the long banding, J, to the long edges using three biscuits for • If you have some leftover stain and clear finish, wipe the can each piece. Trim the long banding flush with the end bands. rim so that it won’t dry out and prevent the lid from forming a tight seal. 23. Glue the screw blocks, K, to the inside face of each lower crosspiece. They must be flush with the top edge of the Before You Stain crosspiece (See Fig. 5). Carefully sand the parts in the direction of the grain. Start with 120- grit sandpaper and finish with 220-grit. Remove all the sanding dust. 24. Screw the sawhorse cap, L, to the edges of the top rails, E, using Then proceed with the stain and clear protective finish of your choice. six #8 x 11/2" flathead wood screws. The cap is centered on the top of the horse with equal overhangs on the ends and sides. Locate the RECOMMENDED STAIN AND CLEAR PROTECTIVE FINISH screws 1/2" in from the long edges, 2" in from ends and in the middle Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based) of the long edges for a total of six screws per cap. Minwax® Gel Stain, Red Elm Minwax® Wipe-On Poly, Satin 25. Cut the desk top stiffener, M, to the specified dimension, 34”. On each end, measure down 1" from the top edge, mark that point 32. Before applying Minwax® Gel Stain, apply Minwax® Pre-Stain and with the miter saw set again at 95º, make the angle cut from that Wood Conditioner (oil-based), following the directions on the point (See Fig. 1). can. Using a pre-stain wood conditioner will help to ensure even absorption of stain and prevent blotchiness. 26. Bore five screw pockets into one face of the stiffener. Locate them 11/2" from each end and equally spaced in between. 33. Next apply Minwax® Gel Stain. Before use and occasionally during the application, stir Minwax® Gel Stain until creamy. 27. Glue and fasten the stiffener to the underside of the top with #8 x 1" screws. Locate it 5" in from the back edge and centered end 34. Evenly apply a liberal amount of the Minwax® Gel Stain with a to end (See Fig. 6). brush or rag. Wait three minutes and, using a clean rag, wipe with the wood grain to remove any excess stain. Allow Gel Stain to dry for eight 28. Predrill for screws and fasten the shelves to the screw blocks with to ten hours. To darken the color, apply additional coats of Minwax® four #8 x 11/4" screws per shelf. Be sure to center the shelves across Gel Stain following the directions above. Allow the stain to dry for 24 the width of the lower rails (See Fig. 7). hours before applying the clear protective finish.

29. Place the desk top upside down on a bench. Protect it from 35. Shake the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly container thoroughly getting scratched with soft pads on the bench. before use.

30. Place the sawhorses upside down on the top. The inside edges of 36. Put a liberal amount of Wipe-On Poly on a clean, soft, lint-free the caps should butt against the ends of the stiffener. Center the horses cloth and rub into the wood. front to back. 37. Allow to dry at least two to three hours. Sand entire surface lightly 31. Pre-drill and drive #8 x 11/4" flat head woodscrews through the with 220-grit sandpaper. Remove all sanding dust. caps and into the underside of the top, two screws for each end of the cap (See Fig. 8). 38. Apply a second coat in the same manner as the first. If a third coat is desired, repeat the application steps. STAINING AND FINISHING Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short your 39. Allow final coat to dry 24 hours before normal use. sanding, preparation, and application time, don’t do it. These tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish. ALTERNATE STAIN AND CLEAR PROTECTIVE FINISH Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and smoothness Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based) of the parts, that will have an impact on how people view your Minwax® PolyShades®, Royal Walnut craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result, follow the steps listed in this section and the instructions the wood finishing Alt 1. Before you stain, apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner manufacturer puts on its products. (oil-based), following the directions on the can. Using a pre-stain wood conditioner will help to ensure even absorption of stain and WOOD FINISHING TIPS prevent blotchiness. • Test the stains and clear protective finishes you are planning to use on scrap pieces of wood. On the back of the scrap, mark Alt 2. Apply Minwax® Polyshades® following the label directions. the stain and clear protective finish combination and the type Use a good quality, natural-bristle brush suitable for use with an of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before making oil-based polyurethane. Stir the can contents thoroughly before your final selection. Save your samples for quick reference on starting and periodically during your work session. future projects. –4– CONTINUED – WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2014-2015 SAWHORSE DESK

Alt 3. Dip the brush an inch or so into the can, gently tapping it WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the against the inside to remove any excess. Do not wipe. Apply a very State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other thin, even coat following the direction of the wood grain. Make sure reproductive harm. to maintain a “wet edge.” To minimize brush marks and bubbles after staining, tip off the surface by holding the brush at a 45-degree angle DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. and lightly run the bristles over the entire wood surface. Allow the first CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health coat to dry at least six hours. information.

Alt 4. Before applying the second coat, sand all surfaces lightly with very fine (000) steel wool. Remove all sanding dust. Apply a second coat of Minwax® Polyshades®, following the directions above. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a third coat after 6 hours or longer, repeating the application directions above.

PRODUCT SAFETY For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read and follow the safety warnings that manufacturers print on their labels.

WARNING! Removal of old by sanding, scraping, or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as properly fitted respirators (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more informa- tion, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.) or contact your local health authority.

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based products, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

When using oil-based wood finishing products:

CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS. Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame. VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid over-exposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, wear respiratory protection (NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison Control Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.

DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE. Contains solvents, which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.

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FIG 1.

B C

A

C B

L L E M

E E I

F J H H E J G

I E K E

D G

D

5° 5° PART DETAILS E 2-1/2" 3/4"

D 4-1/4"

2-1/2" F 5°

27-1/2" 8-1/4"

2-1/2" G 5°

34" 1" 3" M 5° 5°

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FIG 2.

A

Guide Board

Make the desk top ends square and straight edges by clamping a jointed guide board to the cut line and use a router fitted with a pattern-cutting bit. See Step 2.

FIG 3.

Test Piece 95°

Locate, glue and pin the upper and lower crosspieces to the legs, followed by clamping. See Step 15.

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FIG 4.

F D

G

Make a test piece on the miter saw set at 95º and use it to set the table saw blade to 5º. See Step 17.

FIG 5.

D

E D

K G

E

Glue and clamp the screw blocks, K, to the top edge of the lower crosspiece, G. See Step 23.

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FIG 6.

M

A

C

Use glue and pocket screws to fasten the stiffener to the underside of the desk top. See Steps 26-27.

FIG 7.

C

E K D D H

K E D

The sawhorse shelf is fastened with screws driven through the screw blocks and into the underside of the panel. See Step 28.

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FIG 8.

D D

M A C

L

Use 11/4” screws to fasten the sawhorses to the desk top. See Steps 29-31.

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