An Ax to Grind: a Practical Ax Manual
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Chapter 296-78 WAC, Sawmills and Woodworking
Chapter 296-78 WAC Introduction Sawmills and Woodworking Operations _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Chapter 296-78 WAC Sawmills and Woodworking Operations (Form Number F414-010-000) This book contains rules for Safety Standards for sawmills and woodworking operations, as adopted under the Washington Industrial Safety and Health Act of 1973 (Chapter 49.17 RCW). The rules in this book are effective March 2018. A brief promulgation history, set within brackets at the end of this chapter, gives statutory authority, administrative order of promulgation, and date of adoption of filing. TO RECEIVE E-MAIL UPDATES: Sign up at https://public.govdelivery.com/accounts/WADLI/subscriber/new?topic_id=WADLI_19 TO PRINT YOUR OWN PAPER COPY OR TO VIEW THE RULE ONLINE: Go to https://www.lni.wa.gov/safety-health/safety-rules/rules-by-chapter/?chapter=78/ DOSH CONTACT INFORMATION: Physical address: 7273 Linderson Way Tumwater, WA 98501-5414 (Located off I-5 Exit 101 south of Tumwater.) Mailing address: DOSH Standards and Information PO Box 44810 Olympia, WA 98504-4810 Telephone: 1-800-423-7233 For all L&I Contact information, visit https://www.lni.wa.gov/agency/contact/ Also available on the L&I Safety & Health website: DOSH Core Rules Other General Workplace Safety & Health Rules Industry and Task-Specific Rules Proposed Rules and Hearings Newly Adopted Rules and New Rule Information DOSH Directives (DD’s) See http://www.lni.wa.gov/Safety-Health/ Chapter 296-78 WAC Table of Contents Sawmills and Woodworking Operations _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Chapter 296-78 WAC SAFETY STANDARDS FOR SAWMILLS AND WOODWORKING OPERATIONS WAC Page WAC 296-78-500 Foreword. -
LP Solidstart LVL Technical Guide
U.S. Technical Guide L P S o l i d S t a r t LV L Technical Guide 2900Fb-2.0E Please verify availability with the LP SolidStart Engineered Wood Products distributor in your area prior to specifying these products. Introduction Designed to Outperform Traditional Lumber LP® SolidStart® Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) is a vast SOFTWARE FOR EASY, RELIABLE DESIGN improvement over traditional lumber. Problems that naturally occur as Our design/specification software enhances your in-house sawn lumber dries — twisting, splitting, checking, crowning and warping — design capabilities. It ofers accurate designs for a wide variety of are greatly reduced. applications with interfaces for printed output or plotted drawings. Through our distributors, we ofer component design review services THE STRENGTH IS IN THE ENGINEERING for designs using LP SolidStart Engineered Wood Products. LP SolidStart LVL is made from ultrasonically and visually graded veneers arranged in a specific pattern to maximize the strength and CODE EVALUATION stifness of the veneers and to disperse the naturally occurring LP SolidStart Laminated Veneer Lumber has been evaluated for characteristics of wood, such as knots, that can weaken a sawn lumber compliance with major US building codes. For the most current code beam. The veneers are then bonded with waterproof adhesives under reports, contact your LP SolidStart Engineered Wood Products pressure and heat. LP SolidStart LVL beams are exceptionally strong, distributor, visit LPCorp.com or for: solid and straight, making them excellent for most primary load- • ICC-ES evaluation report ESR-2403 visit www.icc-es.org carrying beam applications. • APA product report PR-L280 visit www.apawood.org LP SolidStart LVL 2900F -2.0E: AVAILABLE SIZES b FRIEND TO THE ENVIRONMENT LP SolidStart LVL 2900F -2.0E is available in a range of depths and b LP SolidStart LVL is a building material with built-in lengths, and is available in standard thicknesses of 1-3/4" and 3-1/2". -
Care and Preservation of Furniture and Wooden Objects by Louise Beck, Conservator, the Henry Ford
The Care and Preservation of Furniture and Wooden Objects by Louise Beck, Conservator, The Henry Ford. Introduction Antique furniture and wooden objects can be maintained for years of use and enjoyment provided that some basic care and attention is given to their preservation. The conservation staff at The Henry Ford have compiled the information in this fact sheet to help individuals care for their objects and collections. The first step in the care of collections is to understand and minimize or eliminate conditions that can cause damage. The second step is to follow basic guidelines for care, handling and cleaning. Types of Damage For most antique furniture owners, the desire to both utilize their collections and at the same time preserve them presents a formidable challenge. These two objectives are often at odds with each other. Improper handling/usage/display, environment, cleaning, and repair are the most common causes of damage to furniture and wooden objects. The primary cause of damage to furniture is careless handling and use, resulting in damage to surfaces or structural damage to the object. Inappropriate environment, both in terms of light and relative humidity, can lead to damage. Excessive light can accelerate the aging and degradation of finishes resulting in a cracked, brittle or "alligatored" appearance; it can also cause fading or softening of the finish. Since wood is a porous material it readily absorbs water when humidity levels are high. This absorption of moisture causes wood to swell. Conversely, wood shrinks in a dry environment. The shrinkage of wood in dry environments leads to the formation of structural cracks, lifting veneer and inlays, gaps in joints and the embrittlement of adhesives. -
Annex 2B: OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Panel Guide Version 4 Annex 2B: OSB (oriented strand in panels from different manufacturers; in panels from different manufacturers it is possible to obtain ratios board) of property levels in the machine- to cross-direction of Description 1.25:1 to 2.5:1, thereby emulating the ratios found in OSB is an engineered wood-based panel material in plywood. which long strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. OSB is usually composed Appearance of three layers, with the strands of the outer two layers OSB is readily identified by its larger and longer wood orientated in a particular direction, more often than strands, compared to particleboard. The orientation not in the long direction of the panel. While there is an of the surface strands is not always visually apparent, orientation, it is often hard to see because there is quite especially in small pieces of panel. The panel tends to a large degree of variability in this orientation among have a number of holes on the surface due to the overlap adjacent strands in the panels from any one production of strands, but a smoother surface can be obtained by line, as well as between panels from different producers. sanding. However, OSB will never possess the smooth- ness of surface found in fibreboards and particleboards: rather its merits lie in the field of mechanical perfor- mance which is directly related to the use of longer and larger strands of wood. OSB varies in colour from a light straw colour to a medium brown depending on species used, resin system adopted and pressing conditions employed. -
TECO Design and Application Guide Is Divided Into Four Sections
Structural Design and Plywood Application Guide INTRODUCTION Plywood as we know it has been produced since early in the 20th century. It has been in widespread use as sheathing in residential and commercial construction for well over 50 years and has developed a reputation as a premium panel product for both commodity and specialty applications. Structural plywood products give architects, engineers, designers, and builders a broad array of choices for use as subfloors, combination floors (i.e. subfloor and underlayment), wall and roof sheathing. Besides the very important function of supporting, resisting and transferring loads to the main force resisting elements of the building, plywood panels provide an excellent base for many types of finished flooring and provide a flat, solid base upon which the exterior wall cladding and roofing can be applied. This TECO Design and Application Guide is divided into four sections. Section 1 identifies some of the basics in selecting, handling, and storing plywood. Section 2 provides specific details regarding the application of plywood in single or multilayer floor systems, while Section 3 provides similar information for plywood used as wall and roof sheathing. Section 4 provides information on various performance issues concerning plywood. The information provided in this guide is based on standard industry practice. Users of structural-use panels should always consult the local building code and information provided by the panel manufacturer for more specific requirements and recommendations. -
Woodworking Master
OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY EXTENSION OHIO 4-H MASTER PROJECTS 4-H 560M Woodworking Master By Doug Dill, Faculty Emeritus, Extension Educator, Ohio State University Extension, and Assistant Superintendent, Ohio State Fair 4-H Woodworking Day. Reviewed by Randall Reeder, Faculty Emeritus, Department of Food, Agricultural, and Biological Sciences, The Ohio State University The Woodworking Master project is for members who want to continue with woodworking after completing the Ohio 4-H woodworking projects (556 Measuring Up, 557 Making the Cut, 558 Nailing It Together, and 559 Finishing Up). Members of any age may complete this project, but must have completed the existing projects, must have woodworking experience comparable to what is required for other advanced-level 4-H projects, and must be able to plan and complete the project on their own with minimal supervision or assistance. NAME __________________________________________________________________________ AGE (as of January 1 of the current year): ______________________________________________ COUNTY: _______________________________________________________________________ CLUB NAME: _____________________________________________________________________ ADVISOR: _______________________________________________________________________ ohio4h.org CFAES provides research and related educational programs to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis. For more information: go.osu.edu/cfaesdiversity. Project Guidelines 1. Plan, design, build, and evaluate at least one 6. If possible, have someone take pictures of you woodworking project. What you make should be working on your project at different stages as you different from what you can make within the progress from the beginning through completion, guidelines of other 4-H woodworking projects, or and attach copies of the photos in section 6 or in require specialized or professional-level skills to a separate project scrapbook. complete (beyond what would be expected in 7. -
Molding-Program.Pdf
Moulding Program Conestoga offers several different moulding programs for your convenience. Minimum Maximum Lead-Time, Program Selection Species Grade Order Quantity Order Quantity Days Stock Choice 1 piece 25 pieces* 3 8 ft. Standard Profiles Non-stock Choice 1 piece None 10 10 ft. Standard Veneer Wrapped Profiles Stock Veneer 1 piece None 3 12 ft. Standard Profiles Non-stock Choice 1 piece None 10 8 ft. Non-standard and Special Order Profiles Any Choice 1 piece** None 10 12 ft. Non-standard and Special Order Profiles Any Choice 1 piece** None 10 Random Length Cabinet Framing/S4S Any Prime 100 ft. None 10 *Maximum stock order per specific profile and specie is 25 pieces. Orders exceeding 25 pieces require 10 day lead-time. **Non-standard profile orders of less than 100 lineal feet will incur a set-up charge. Solid Wood Moulding Specifications • Eight foot standard and non-standard mouldings will be shipped 94" to 97" in length. • Ten foot standard veneer wrapped moulding will be shipped 118" to 122" in length. • Twelve foot standard and non-standard mouldings will be shipped 142" to 146" in length. • Natural specie characteristics that exhibit the character and beauty of wood will be evident on mouldings. These characteristics will include, but not be limited to, color variations, heartwood, sapwood, pin knots, worm holes and surface and end checks. Conestoga specifications do not allow these characteristics to affect structural integrity of the mouldings. • Natural characteristics that become evident through machining, environmental or atmospheric conditions such as minor bows, twists and crooks, may be evident but will not affect product quality or impede workability. -
Creating a Timber Frame House
Creating a Timber Frame House A Step by Step Guide by Brice Cochran Copyright © 2014 Timber Frame HQ All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the author. ISBN # 978-0-692-20875-5 DISCLAIMER: This book details the author’s personal experiences with and opinions about timber framing and home building. The author is not licensed as an engineer or architect. Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this book was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. Except as specifically stated in this book, neither the author or publisher, nor any authors, contributors, or other representatives will be liable for damages arising out of or in connection with the use of this book. This is a comprehensive limitation of liability that applies to all damages of any kind, including (without limitation) compensatory; direct, indirect or consequential damages; income or profit; loss of or damage to property and claims of third parties. You understand that this book is not intended as a substitute for consultation with a licensed engineering professional. Before you begin any project in any way, you will need to consult a professional to ensure that you are doing what’s best for your situation. -
What Is Woodworking?
What is woodworking? Accident prevention in woodworking literally starts Never carry sharp or pointed tools in your pock- from the ground up — the floor. Whether you’re ets or use tools with burred or mushroomed heads. cutting, drilling, shaping or sanding, you will per- Check for and repair loose or damaged tool handles. form the operation more safely in a clean, unclut- tered workplace. When handling small tools, follow these suggestions: • Select the right tool for the job. Makeshift It’s easier and safer to work in a clean area tools are dangerous; • Sharp tools in good condition are safer; Remove sawdust, wood shavings and chips, • Give tools to co-workers by the handle first; and scrap lumber from the work area frequently • Carry only as many tools as you can safety throughout the day to eliminate slipping and trip- manage; ping hazards. • When carrying sharp or pointed tools, keep sharp edges and points down and never put Immediately clean up oil, grease and other liquids them in your pockets. spilled on the floor. Stop machine completely when unattended Pieces of lumber extending into aisles, materials lying around machinery and improperly stacked Unattended machinery is dangerous. The safe lumber make performing your job difficult and worker makes sure the machine is completely create hazards. stopped, not just switched off, before leaving it because an unsuspecting worker unfamiliar with the The floor itself also can become hazardous. Loose machine may touch the revolving cutting edge. All boards, protruding nails, splinters, holes or other woodworking machinery should have a magnetic surface defects can result in serious injuries if you start and stop button. -
Woodworking Joints.Key
Woodworking making joints Using Joints Basic Butt Joint The butt joint is the most basic woodworking joint. Commonly used when framing walls in conventional, stick-framed homes, this joint relies on mechanical fasteners to hold the two pieces of stock in place. Learn how to build a proper butt joint, and when to use it on your woodworking projects. Basic Butt Joint The simplest of joints is a butt joint - so called because one piece of stock is butted up against another, then fixed in place, most commonly with nails or screws. The addition of glue will add some strength, but the joint relies primarily upon its mechanical fixings. ! These joints can be used in making simple boxes or frames, providing that there will not be too much stress on the joint, or that the materials used will take nails or screws reliably. Butt joints are probably strongest when fixed using glued dowels. Mitered Butt Joint ! A mitered butt joint is basically the same as a basic butt joint, except that the two boards are joined at an angle (instead of square to one another). The advantage is that the mitered butt joint will not show any end grain, and as such is a bit more aesthetically pleasing. Learn how to create a clean mitered butt joint. Mitered Butt Joint The simplest joint that requires any form of cutting is a miter joint - in effect this is an angled butt joint, usually relying on glue alone to construct it. It requires accurate 45° cutting, however, if the perfect 90° corner is to result. -
Fine Woodworking Gallery Submission Form See Your Work In
Fine Woodworking Gallery Submission Form See your work in The Gallery In each issue of Fine Woodworking we publish more than a dozen photos of furniture and woodwork in our Readers Gallery, celebrating the work of hobbyist and professionals. We also publish more photos in the FineWoodworking.com Readers Gallery. To have your work considered for publication in print or on our Web site, please read the information below and follow the directions provided. Photographing your work Taking good photos of your work is one way to improve your chance of being featured in the magazine or on FineWoodworking.com. Here are some tips: • Shoot your work against a neutral background; a bed sheet or drop cloth will suffice. • Make sure you have plenty of indirect light from windows or light fixtures. • Take photos from many angles, overall and up close, to provide a complete presentation of your work. • Clean the furniture, and don't clutter the object with items such as books or collectibles. • Do not alter the images or remove the background electronically. How to make a submission Print and complete this form and send it along with any photos (prints, slides, or digital images on a photo CD) to: Fine Woodworking Readers Gallery The Taunton Press 63 South Main Street Newtown, CT 06470-5506 Or, you can email your photos and information to [email protected]. Digital photos should be in high-resolution format and unaltered. If you would like your materials returned, please include a self-addressed envelope with proper postage. Name: _____________________________________________ Address: ___________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ Daytime telephone number: ( ______ ) ___________________ Email: _____________________________________________ Furniture type: (table, chair, etc.): _______________________ Wood: _____________________________________________ Other materials: _____________________________________ Finish: _____________________________________________ Approx. -
Fire Before Matches
Fire before matches by David Mead 2020 Sulang Language Data and Working Papers: Topics in Lexicography, no. 34 Sulawesi Language Alliance http://sulang.org/ SulangLexTopics034-v2 LANGUAGES Language of materials : English ABSTRACT In this paper I describe seven methods for making fire employed in Indonesia prior to the introduction of friction matches and lighters. Additional sections address materials used for tinder, the hearth and its construction, some types of torches and lamps that predate the introduction of electricity, and myths about fire making. TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 Introduction; 2 Traditional fire-making methods; 2.1 Flint and steel strike- a-light; 2.2 Bamboo strike-a-light; 2.3 Fire drill; 2.4 Fire saw; 2.5 Fire thong; 2.6 Fire plow; 2.7 Fire piston; 2.8 Transporting fire; 3 Tinder; 4 The hearth; 5 Torches and lamps; 5.1 Palm frond torch; 5.2 Resin torch; 5.3 Candlenut torch; 5.4 Bamboo torch; 5.5 Open-saucer oil lamp; 5.6 Footed bronze oil lamp; 5.7 Multi-spout bronze oil lamp; 5.8 Hurricane lantern; 5.9 Pressurized kerosene lamp; 5.10 Simple kerosene lamp; 5.11 Candle; 5.12 Miscellaneous devices; 6 Legends about fire making; 7 Additional areas for investigation; Appendix: Fire making in Central Sulawesi; References. VERSION HISTORY Version 2 [13 June 2020] Minor edits; ‘candle’ elevated to separate subsection. Version 1 [12 May 2019] © 2019–2020 by David Mead All Rights Reserved Fire before matches by David Mead Down to the time of our grandfathers, and in some country homes of our fathers, lights were started with these crude elements—flint, steel, tinder—and transferred by the sulphur splint; for fifty years ago matches were neither cheap nor common.