Steven Shapin. the Tastes of Wine
n.s., 51 (3/2012), anno LII wineworld. new essays on wine, taste, philosophy and aesthetics advisory editor Nicola Perullo wineworld Nicola Perullo, Wineworld: Tasting, making, drinking, being 3 Steven Shapin, The tastes of wine: Towards a cultural history 49 Cain Todd, Expression and objectivity in the case of wine: Defending the aesthetic terroir of tastes and smells 95 Ole Martin Skilleås, Douglas Burnham, Patterns of attention: “Project” and the phenomenology of aesthetic perception 117 Kevin Sweeney, Structure in wine 137 Giampaolo Gravina, A matter of taste. The semi-serious musings of a wine taster on the contentious prospects of professional tasting 149 Gabriele Tomasi, On wines as works of art 155 Andrea Borghini, On being the same wine 175 varia Felice Cimatti, Quel dolore che non deve sapersi. Il linguaggio e il problema dell’esperienza estetica 193 recensioni Marcella Tarozzi Goldsmith, Il problema della percezione nella filosofia di Nietzsche, di Tiziana Andina 215 Emanuele Crescimanno, La scrittura delle immagini. Letteratura e cultura visuale, di Michele Cometa 221 Steven Shapin THE TASTES OF WINE: TOWARDS A CULTURAL HISTORY Abstract How have people talked about the organoleptic characteristics of wines? How and why have descriptive and evaluative vocabularies changed over time? The essay shows that these vocabularies have shifted from the spare to the elaborate, from medical im- plications to aesthetic analyses, from a leading concern with “goodness” (authenticity, soundness) to interest in the analytic description of component flavors and odors. The causes of these changes are various: one involves the importance, and eventual disap- pearance, of a traditional physiological framework for appreciating the powers and qualities of different sorts of aliment, including wines; another concerns the develop- ment of chemical sciences concerned with flavor components; and still another flows from changing social and economic circumstances in which wine was consumed and the functions served by languages of connoisseurship.
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