A Wall of Boolcs: Natural and Applied Colors in Architecture
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Irene Castle and Her Female Networks of Theatrical Business
50 Nic Leonhardt Ludwig Maximilian University, Germany A Hop, A Frock, A Hairdo: Irene Castle and her Female Networks of Theatrical Business Focusing on American dancer/performer Irene Castle (1893-1969) and following the merchandising strategies and aesthetic and societal impact of her widely discussed short haircut, her costumes, and her dancing school, this article aims at describing and disentangling the tight network of theatrical and popular entertainment, economy, and urbanity in the 1910s. Through an interdisciplinary approach and with a focus on a limited time frame of five years (1910-1915), the author discusses various strands, agents, contact zones and business strategies that are part and parcel of this network. Next to Irene Castle, two female theatre professionals are of particular interest here: costume designer Lady Duff-Gordon (1863-1935) and theatrical agent Elizabeth Marbury (1856-1933). Nic Leonhardt is a theatre and media historian with a special interest in historiography, visual culture, popular culture, and urban history. She is currently associate director and researcher of the DFG research project “Global Theatre Histories” at LMU Munich, Germany, and a lecturer in theatre studies. Keywords: Irene Castle, Lady Duff-Gordon (Lucile), Elisabeth Marbury, Vernon Castle, social dance, fashion, hairstyles, theatrical commodification hen a woman changes her hairstyle, this is always ‘quite something’ W and is said to announce, more often than not, crucial shifts in her personal life. When, in 1914, American dancer and performer Irene Castle cut her long hair to a blunt bob, it immediately made the headlines of serious and less serious newspapers, and triggered a flood of short haircuts among young women in the United States and in Europe. -
Interiors by Elsie De Wolfe & Charles Duveen,1915-1945
NON-PROFIT ORG. U.S. POSTAGE PAID HUNTINGTON, N.Y. PERMIT NO. 14 P.O. BOX 660, OYSTER BAY, NY 11771 PLANTING FIELDS FOUNDATION / PLANTING FIELDS ARBORETUM, OYSTER BAY, NEW YORK / SPRING 2014 NEWSLETTER FabulousINTERIORS BY ELSIE DE WOLFE & CHARLES DUVEEN,1915-1945 Exhibition at Coe Hall Opens March 29th Magnolias at Planting Fields PHOTO BY BILL BARASH Tea House by Elsie de Wolfe, Planting Fields 1915 DEAR MEMBERS, WE WARMLY WELCOME FOUR NEW TRUSTEES Last year was notably memorable for the future of Planting Fields because ground was TO PLANTING FIELDS FOUNDATION broken for the new Sensory Garden. Trustee, Peter Tilles, made a magnificent donation of $400,000 to build the garden and he and other trustees have raised an additional $375,000, mostly from generous local supporters to ensure that the project is completed. MARY CIULLO has spent close to 25 Economics in 1986 from the boards of non-profits such as the New York State Department of Parks, Recreation, and Historic Preservation has years volunteering her time within University of Virginia, where he met Nassau County Museum of Art and committed $400,000. Thank you to everyone for their support. the community. She was actively Susan, a 1985 University of Virginia Foundation House. John and his involved with the Green Vale School, graduate, former CBS News “48 wife, Louise M. Parent, reside in Also in 2013 the Foundation was awarded a major grant in the amount of $250,000 from served as the President of the Hours” producer, and native of New York City and in Mill Neck. -
This Is an Accepted Manuscript of a Book Chapter Published By
This is an Accepted Manuscript of a book chapter published by Routledge in Shaping the American interior : structures, contexts and practices on 09/05/18, available online: https://www.routledge.com/Shaping-the-American-Interior-Structures-Contexts-and- Practices/Lupkin-Sparke/p/book/9781138697706 1 Elsie de Wolfe: A Professional Interior Decorator The (mostly) recent work undertaken to date on early twentieth-century female interior decorators – Eleanor McMillen, Nancy Lancaster, Sister Parish, Elsie de Wolfe, Dorothy Draper, Nancy McClelland, Syrie Maugham, Rose Cumming and others - has emphasized their exceptional biographies.i Indeed, the very size and glossy nature of many of the publications highlight the individual, celebrity nature of the decorators in question. It was through their determination, strength of character and often flamboyant personalities, these publications suggest, that they transformed what had hitherto been seen as an unpaid amateur feminine activity – the decoration of the home – into a modern career for women. Indeed, the fact that so many of the lady decorators focused on the home is made much of in several of the studies. In the foreword to the book about their mother and grandmother by Sister Parish, Apple Bartlett and Susan Crater, for example, Albert Hadley stressed that, “The beauty and harmony of her surroundings were expressed with conviction and clarity in the environments she helped to create for others. At the core were all the elements of refined taste, but taste flavored by a sometimes wicked wit and a degree of jovial irreverence that possibly explains the magic of her creative genius – her genius for the art of living, the art of home.” ii Only May’s article on McClelland points out that that particular decorator contributed to the profession of interior decoration in a more institutional manner by becoming the first women to be the national president of the American Institute of Interior Decorators. -
Information to Users
INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted.Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand corner and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9” black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. ProQuest Information and Learning 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 USA 800-521-0600 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. EDITH BLAKE BROWN AND THE RISE OF PROFESSIONAL INTERIOR DESIGN by Karina Helen Hiltje Corrigan A thesis submitted to the Faculty of the University of Delaware in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts with a major in Early American Culture Summer 2001 Copyright 2001 Karina Helen Hiltje Corrigan All Rights Reserved Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. -
Female Visitors to Sir Richard Wallace's Art Collection
More Than Mere Ornaments: Female Visitors to Sir Richard Wallace’s Art Collection Helen C. Jones Ten months after Lady Wallace’s death in February 1897, the Hertford House Visitors’ Book was closed for the final time. For the previous twenty- three years, this large, black, leather-bound volume had been displayed on one of the desks in the Great Gallery, for visitors to sign as part of their tour of the collection. The book begins in 1876, shortly after Sir Richard Wallace had inherited Hertford House and refurbished it as a fitting home for his magnificent art collection, and continues until December 1897, after Lady Wallace’s bequest of the collection to the nation. During this period, Hertford House was a private collection that could be visited by prior appointment or on occasional open days. After 1897 the Visitors’ Book became part of Lady Wallace’s legacy to Sir John Murray Scott, who had been private secretary to both Lady Wallace and Sir Richard. It remained in his family’s possession until the death of his sister Mary in 1943, at which point it returned to its original home at Hertford House.1 Now one of the most important documents in the Wallace Collection Archive, it has recently been digitized and is available to view on the Internet Archive (Fig. 1). From 2017 to 2018, I transcribed the 245 pages of the Visitors’ Book, deciphering the identities of the signatories. Only a handful of visitors had left comments alongside their signatures and so a mere list of names was the starting point for all the research that followed. -
The Catalogue of the American Play Co with Original Casts
F O R E W O R D ARE 1 0 IN THERE 44 MINUTES TODAY . TAKE FIVE OF THEM AND READ THIS TAKE FIVE MORE AND READ IT AGAIN THOSE TEN MINUTES MAY SET Y OU THINKING AND T H I N K I N G MEANS MONEY . UCCESS needs no press agent t r for e n and he e e, the achi veme ts of the American Play Company n eed none. c To our own lients, the past of the American Play Company speaks for itself ! to those who must eventually become our e r nt and f r w cli nts, its p ese its utu e may, ho ever, be en n r m tio ed in ce tain salient features . The policy of the company is to make prices as n l as m rofi o reaso ab e a legiti ate p t will all w . The stock manager cannot in these times of vital compe afi ord fi a r es tition arti ci l p ic , such as some agents e n . n r d ma d To do so must i evitably cou t failure, and each failure means the elimination of at least one for the of outlet sale stock plays . The America n Play Company stands for Volume of Business at PROFITABLE but not EXCESS IVE rates ! it believes that ten weeks at $250 each e o r or m an m re to a client, buye seller, than one week at a thousand dollars . Its financial policy for e of the m r makes the succ ss anage , and success e f — ful managers m an success ul leases, and those e rofi . -
RITA DE ACOSTA LYDIG Descended Through Her Mother from the Duke of Museum
The original documents are located in Box 23, folder “3/20/76 - New York City (3)” of the Sheila Weidenfeld Files at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library. Copyright Notice The copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material. Gerald Ford donated to the United States of America his copyrights in all of his unpublished writings in National Archives collections. Works prepared by U.S. Government employees as part of their official duties are in the public domain. The copyrights to materials written by other individuals or organizations are presumed to remain with them. If you think any of the information displayed in the PDF is subject to a valid copyright claim, please contact the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library. Digitized from Box 23 of the Sheila Weidenfeld Files at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library • Barbara Grimaldi Assistant Director Public Relations New School for Social Research 66W12St, NYC 10011 (212) 741-5668 Feb. 24, 1976 Sally, Enclosed are invitations and programs from each of the Parsons Fashion Critics Awards Shows that have taken place since 1972, ' when they were begun on the occasion of the School's Diamond Jubilee. Also enclosed is a Parsons catalog, some invitations to the 1976 show -- I think all of these will help you get a better idea of the School and of the event. Will have the press release ready shortly and will definitely get it to you before we send it out. Will also brief you on the outcome of the meeting set for this coming Tuesday, March 2 -- the one I spoke to you about and had hoped Patty Matson would attend. -
Elsie De Wolfe: the Birth of Modern Interior Decoration Penny Sparke, Edited by Mitchell Owens
Elsie de Wolfe: The Birth of Modern Interior Decoration Penny Sparke, edited by Mitchell Owens. Acanthus Press, 2005. 374 pp., 300 duotone illus. $85/£50 Cloth. ISBN 0–926494–27–9. Extending across more than three decades, Professor Penny Sparke's Sparke's oeuvre has defined as well as reflected the changing preoccupations of Design History. Her work extends from the introductory texts so useful for identifying areas for further research, teaching and recruiting a general readership, such as An Introduction to Design and Culture 1900 to the Present (1986, 2004), A Century of Design: Design Pioneers of the 20th Century (1998), Design in Context (1987) and The Design Source Book (1986, 1992), to materials and typological studies, The Plastics Age (1990, 1993) and A Century of Car Design (2002), national surveys Japanese Design (1987) and Italian Design: 1870 to the Present (1988), and designer-led analyses, Ettore Sottsass Jnr (1982) and Consultant Design: the history and practice of the designer in industry (1983). In the last decade, Sparke has made a particular contribution to the literature of gender and design with As Long As Its Pink: the Sexual Politics of Taste (1995) and as an editor and contributor to Women's Places: Architecture and Design 1860-1960 (2003) - for which Sparke contributed the essay 'Elsie de Wolfe and her Female Clients, 1905-1915: Gender, Class and the Professional Interior Decorator'. In addition to Sparke's contribution to Interior Design and Identity (2004), 'The Domestic Interior and the Construction of Self: the New York Homes of Elsie de Wolfe', Journal readers will remember her article 'The "ideal" and the "real" interior in Elsie de Wolfe's The House in Good Taste of 1913' (vol. -
Edith Wharton Author(S): Mary Chinery and Laura Rattray Source: Edith Wharton Review, Vol
The Shadow of a Doubt: Discovering a New Work by Edith Wharton Author(s): Mary Chinery and Laura Rattray Source: Edith Wharton Review, Vol. 33, No. 1 (2017), pp. 88-112 Published by: Penn State University Press Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5325/editwharrevi.33.1.0088 Accessed: 16-06-2017 08:08 UTC REFERENCES Linked references are available on JSTOR for this article: http://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5325/editwharrevi.33.1.0088?seq=1&cid=pdf- reference#references_tab_contents You may need to log in to JSTOR to access the linked references. JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms Penn State University Press is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Edith Wharton Review This content downloaded from 130.209.115.106 on Fri, 16 Jun 2017 08:08:35 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms From the Archives The Shadow of a Doubt: Discovering a New Work by Edith Wharton Mary Chinery, Georgian Court University Laura Rattray, University of Glasgow Some of the most exciting discoveries of Wharton scholarship in recent years have been archival: Alice Kelly’s recovery of “The Field of Honour,” the war story “ hidden” in plain sight in the Beinecke Library; Meredith Goldsmith’s discovery of the Italian-language typescript of the 1900 short story “The Duchess at Prayer” (“La Duchessa in Preghiera”) in the Rubenstein Library at Duke University; and a fascinating, ongoing unearthing of individual poems by Irene Goldman- Price, who also brought us the eagerly awaited My Dear Governess: The Letters of Edith Wharton to Anna Bahlmann (2012).