Cruising ~ Scotland VISITSCOTLAND, KENNY LAM KENNY VISITSCOTLAND,

16 MARCH 2020 sailingtoday.co.uk Summit to peak your interest In Scotland, a Munro is a mountain peak over 3,000 feet high. ‘Bagging’ a Munro by reaching the summit is a popular pursuit for hikers – and you can reach a fair few of them by water

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nyone who has sailed on the west coast of Scotland will appreciate that there are two ingredients Torridon that make it one of the Dunvegan Amost beautiful cruising grounds in the world – the sea and the stunning and mountains. To combine the SKYE pursuits of hiking and sailing means SCOTLAND you can make the most of both of these ingredients. The key is to work out an itinerary. Happily, we have one ready made, thanks to a little Silver Sands of help from the experts at Sail Scotland. Soaring more than 3,000 feet (904m) into the sky and set in some Tobermory and Glencoe of the most incredible landscapes on the planet, sailing in the shadow of one of Scotland’s 282 Munros is an Mull Oban awe-inspiring experience – but Iona mooring up, donning your walking boots and conquering one on foot is a whole new adventure! Set sail for a voyage that’ll have you marvelling at some of Scotland’s most amazing scenery, sampling fantastic food and Oban. The largest town in & ABOVE Tobermory drink, and bagging a few of those the Isles, it’s home to some of the Sail Scotland’s west With a couple of Munros already coast itinerary towering peaks. finest seafood found anywhere in mapped out bagged, spectacular sights seen, and Scotland. Stretch your sea legs on dry drams put away, it’s time to take a PREVIOUS PAGE Ballachulish land and work up an appetite with a Tobermory, capital wee break on your journey towards and Glencoe trip to McCaig’s Tower – the of the island of Mull becoming a ‘completionist’ as you Kick off your journey towards coliseum lookalike that crowns the continue around magnificent Mull. becoming a ‘Munroist’ with a trip to heights overlooking the town – Sail about 35nm north and around the glassy waters of Loch Linnhe and before slaking your thirst with a tour the western coast to make your way the dramatic scenery of Ballachulish of Oban Distillery – one of the oldest to the pastel-coloured port of and Glencoe. This is a land of (and smallest – it only has two stills!) Tobermory – the island’s capital and crystal-clear rivers, monumental distilleries in Scotland. Sláinte! setting for iconic kids’ TV show snow-capped mountains and hidden, Balamory (What’s the story in hauntingly beautiful glens. From the Mull Balamory?) – but there is plenty moment you leave it behind, this Cruise west and skirt the southern more to discover in this island town. landscape is where your busy mind coast of the iconic , where Take to the greens of Tobermory’s will wander every time you close picture postcard villages stand clifftop, nine-hole golf course for your eyes. The towering twin peaks alongside towering medieval castles, some of the most spectacular views of Beinn a’Bheithir are first on your and soaring sea eagles, majestic from the tee you’ll ever see; explore Munro bagging list. Clamber up the basking sharks and curious puffins the culture of the area at art gallery knife-edged cauldron that glowers can be spotted. But leave the and live music venue, An Tobar; or, if over Ballachulish and you’ll be wonderful wildlife behind for the Munro-bagging hasn’t slaked your rewarded with spectacular views of moment. Berth in the sheltered bay thirst for adventure, search for the Loch Leven, Loch Linnhe, and – of Loch Beg and ready yourself to lost fortune of the Spanish galleon dominating the skyline – . tackle mighty , with an that is rumoured to lie sunken in a Take a good look – one day, you’ll elevation of 3,852 ft (1,174m), watery grave in Tobermory’s silt – gaze down the as you beckoning you forth. The only island carrying £300,000 worth of gold stand triumphant on its summit. Munro outside of Skye, Ben More’s bullion! Of course, you could always grand ridged summit offers just head for a tour of the Tobermory Oban unforgettable views of the many distillery instead. Sail around 30 nautical miles islands dotted around the Minches. When it comes to seafood, the southwest through Loch Linnhe for Breathe it all in – the view from the phrase ‘straight off the boat’ is much some well-earned rest in the top of your first Munro is something more than just a cliché at ‘Gateway to the Isles’ – beautiful that will stay with you. Tobermory’s Café Fish. Set on the

18 MARCH 2020 sailingtoday.co.uk Silver Sands of Morar Don’t miss the chance to see the Silver Sands of Morar – a stunning string of beautiful sandy beaches peppering the coastline from to Morar, just south of Mallaig. Featured in films such as Highlander and Local Hero, its spectacularly

blue shallows and sparkling sands have long lured photographers and film-makers. VISITSCOTLAND, PAUL TOMKINS

sun slink beneath the horizon with a BELOW corner of the picture postcard town’s wildlife, with the chance to spot A boat’s eye view of hearty meal in your belly and a dram beautiful bay, the café has been everything from sea eagles and Skye’s Ridge in your hand. Bliss! wowing visitors with an array of otters to basking sharks and delectable and supremely fresh dolphins out among the area’s Skye seafood delights for over a decade. rugged headlands and sheltered Wave goodbye to Mallaig and cruise Don’t miss their famous fish pie. bays. around 20nm northwest to say When you’ve explored enough to ‘Hello, Skye’ – an island alive with Mallaig work up an appetite, the magic. The largest of the Inner Sail around 30nm north along the Cornerstone Seafood Restaurant, Hebrides, it’s home to some of west coast to Mallaig to set foot on which overlooks Mallaig’s busy Scotland’s most iconic landscapes. impossibly white sandy beaches and harbour, offers a range of freshly From the Old Man of Storr to the take in unforgettable sea views with caught west coast delights, from Quiraing and the Cuillin mountain magnificent sunsets over the Isles of home-made Cullen Skink to range, Skye offers a plethora of sights Rum, , Muck, Canna, Skye and hand-dived scallops. to enthrall the senses – and twist the the remote wilderness of . Sit back and relax after a hard day tongue! Berth at Loch Scavaig – a Unsurprisingly, Mallaig is a haven for treading the sands and watch the rugged, rural mooring at the base of the range and one of the most spectacular anchorages you’ll ever have the pleasure to visit – to see the Black Cuillin in all its jaw-dropping glory. With no less than five of the Munros that make up the iconic range within walking distance, this is your chance to scale peaks that dreams are made or – raw, rugged, and brutally beautiful. Take care, however; many Cuillin summits require scrambling or rock-climbing to reach and can challenge even the veteran Munro-bagger. There are several shorter walks that still

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guides are available for those intent on conquering the toughest climbs the Cuillin can offer. For much- needed nourishment, the Three Chimneys is worth the effort to get to. The renowned restaurant offers up an array of delicious food that reflects the amazing variety of Skye’s authentic, natural larder from sky, land and sea. Prepare yourself for a meal that’ll dance on your palette like the moonlight on the Fairy Pools. Once you’ve bagged your fill of Munros (for now), cruise on to Loch Harport for a well-earned dram (or three) at Distillery – home of the only single-malt whisky produced on Skye. TOMKINS PAUL VISITSCOTLAND, Dunvegan Sail about 11nm north around the Torridon ABOVE Overlooking the loch and the The magnificent dramatic Skye coastline and step Leave Skye behind, skirting its Iona Abbey on bubbling Allt Coire Roill burn, the back into the island’s storied past northern coast and cruise east back the Isle of Iona only thing more spectacular than its

with a stopover in Dunvegan. Home towards the mainland for around BELOW views is the food served up in its of the oldest continuously inhabited 55nm, where the mighty sea lochs White-capped restaurant. With three AA rosettes Munros stand castle in Scotland – the ancestral seat and dramatic, desolate peaks of majestically beyond to boast of and an ever-evolving, of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod – this Torridon await. Berth in Upper Loch Loch Torridon best-of-Scottish menu featuring idyllic lochside village is full of Torridon, in the shadow of the everything from Dornoch lamb to myths, majesty and more than a little seemingly impenetrable peaks of Scrabster hake and Orkney scallops, magic. Recharge with a visit to (Jewelled in it’s the perfect place for a Munroist and its five acres of Gaelic) and Liatach (The Grey One), in the making to refuel. beautifully maintained gardens, and steel yourself to tackle the complete with woodland glades, ascents – and prepare your camera Iona waterfalls and a wonderful array of for the stunning views that await you Take a detour to the incomparable vibrant blooms, before paying a visit at their summits. With two (or more) Isle of Iona off the coast of Mull, to the aptly named Old School of the most spectacular Munros in where magnificent scenery, myths Restaurant. This much-loved the country in the bag, you’ll no and majesty await. Be sure and stop family-run bistro has been serving doubt be ready for some well-earned by the isle’s iconic abbey, as well as up classic Scottish fare for over 30 rest and relaxation. Cruise to the St Oran’s Chapel and the ancient years. Settle in, sample food so good southern shores of Upper Loch cemetery of Reilig Odhram, which you’d swear your mammy had made Torridon, where the elegant stone is reputed to be the burial place of it, and get ready for your next turrets and towers of imaginatively 48 kings of Scotland, including adventure above 3,000 feet. titled The Torridon await. Macbeth.

Geotourist Thanks to online tour guide Geotourist, this article can be accessed as an audio file, narrated by the venerable Dame Shirley Robertson. Simply scan the QR code below or go to geotourist.com

20 MARCH 2020 sailingtoday.co.uk TOMKINS PAUL VISITSCOTLAND,