“VOYAGE OF THE KOO KOO SINT”

by Denny & Delores DeMeyer

On May 10, 2008 fifteen voyageur canoes left Rocky Mountain House (RMH), , ten of which would make the entire 3500 mile and 63 day journey to Fort William in Thunder Bay, Ontario. The canoes were 25 foot long replicas of the original birch bark canoes used by Hudson Bay Company and Northwest Company fur traders on their annual trek to the East and was sponsored by the 2008 David Thompson Brigade.

The brigade was the brainchild of Andy Korsos, a cartographer from and his wife Leanne Playter. One of these canoes, the “Koo Koo Sint”, sponsored by the Alberta Land Surveyors Association would make the 15 day trek from Rocky Mountain House to Prince Albert, Saskatchewan. Koo Koo Sint was the name given David Thompson by the Native Americans meaning “star gazer” or “he who looks at stars”.

This event is one of many commemorating the David Thompson Bicentennials: 2007- 2011. Even though David Thompson was perhaps North America’s greatest surveyor, having mapped over 1.5 million square miles of North American and traveled well over 75,000 miles by foot, horseback, dogsled and canoe, he has been largely forgotten until now.

VOYAGEUR CANOE TEAMS: 1. Team Pathfinder – Edmonton, Alberta 2. Charlotte’s Crew – Edmonton Alberta 3. Borealis Canoe Club – Fort McMurray, Alberta 4. Traders – Alberta 5. Team Shawnigan – Victoria, British Columbia 6. Paddle 1 and Paddle Canada 2 – all over Canada 7. Team Black Bart - Cumberland House Cree Nation, Saskatchewan 8. Canadian Voyageurs – Vernon, British Columbia 9. N.W. Co. Voyageurs – Rocky Mountain House, Alberta 10. Alberta Land Surveyors – Surveyors from Alberta, British Columbia & Washington State 11. Saskatchewan ’67 Centennial Voyagers, Saskatchewan. 12. Amisk Lake Voyageurs – Amish Lake, Saskatchewan 13. Bow Waters Canoe Club – , Alberta 14. Totem Outdoor Outfitters – Edmonton, Alberta 15. Team Moscastani-sipiy, Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan

The Alberta canoe was the idea of Monroe Kinloch, a surveyor from Sheridan Park, Alberta. He had discovered the shell of an old voyager canoe in Rocky Mountain House that was supposedly the “backup” canoe for Alberta’s entry in the 1967 canoe race to celebrate Canada’s Centennial; 1867-1967. All provinces and territories were represented in that race that was won by the province of Manitoba. Much work had to be completed on the canoe before it was ready for the 672 + miles (1082 kilometer) trek down the to Prince Albert, Saskatchewan.

MEMBERS OF THE ALBERTA LAND SURVEYOR’S CANOE TEAM:

ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE, ALBERTA, TO PRINCE ALBERT, SASKATCHEWAN. Jim Stuart, ALS, Calgary. Gordon & Floss Thomson, BCLS, Fort Langley, British Columbia. John Haggerty, ALS & PE, Edmonton. Denny & Delores DeMeyer, PLS, Lynden, Washington. ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE, ALBERTA TO ELK POINT, ALBERTA. Ken Johnson, ALS & PE, Edmonton. Lew Rodney, ALS, Edmonton. Barry Hardy, Edmonton. Mark Selander, ALS, Edmonton. Michale Lang, museum curator, Canmore, AB. Richard Lang, physiatrist, Canmore, AB. Hugh & Peggy Moloney, school teachers, Calgary (RMH TO ). ELK POINT, ALBERTA TO PRINCE ALBERT, SASKATCHEWAN. Bruce Clark, ALS & PE, Edmonton & son Thompson “Thornton” Clark. Pat Moloney, ALS, Calgary Harold Pliska, graphic designer, Calgary Rob Moloney, geologist, Calgary Hugh & Peggy Moloney, school teachers, Calgary

Delores and I arrived in Rocky Mountain House the afternoon of March 8 and were greeted by over 18” of snow that had fallen that day in the campground where everyone was to meet. Road graders and bobcats were plowing snow and some hardy voyagers had already set up their tents. Delores and I opted for the Walking Eagle Motel in RMH.

Typical days began at 5:00 am for the first shift, with Floss Thomson and Delores getting up even earlier to pack lunches and cook a hot breakfast for everyone. Canadians seem to prefer a concoction they call “porridge” for breakfast in addition to their bacon or sausage, fried eggs, potatoes and toast. To me this mixture looked suspiciously like gruel. There was usually at least one crew change location per day so some of the time only a few of us had to paddle all day. A day’s travel typically ranged between 24 miles (39 kilometers) and 60 miles (97 kilometers), depending on where we were camping for the night.

I have chosen to write this article similar to the journal kept by David Thompson in his travels between 1807 & 1811 while on the west side of the .

May 8, 2008: Kamloops to RMH: a fine morning. Drove to Lake Louise and then to Saskatchewan Crossing in Alberta. A very rotten afternoon; turned down the David Thompson Highway (Hwy 11) and North Saskatchewan River through a blizzard for over 35 miles without meeting a car. Arrived this afternoon at the Buster Creek Campground outside of town of RMH and was greeted by now over 1 ½ feet of snow. A few hardy souls had already pitched their tents on top of the snow. Delores and I decided to drive into town and stay in a motel.

May 9, 2008: RMH: a very fine day. It froze hard last night but we awoke to sunshine. After a hardy breakfast sponsored by the town of RMH, all sixteen canoe teams met for an orientation and safety meeting. Later that morning, members of the Alberta Land Surveyors canoe meet at a large lake nearby. Since most of us had never been in a large canoe before, it was decided to have a practice run. A 25 foot long voyager canoe can hold up to 10 paddlers, however, because of the necessity to “switch” (change sides) every 50 to 70 strokes, it was decided early on to only have 6 paddlers; one per seat. Thankfully no one was around to take pictures of our early efforts to “switch”. Had a delicious hot lunch prepared by Floss and Delores. Later that evening, we put decals on our canoe and had a delicious dinner prepared again by the town of RMH. Sunny in the evening, took some shots for latitude and longitude.

May 10, 2008; RMH to Baptist River: a fine day. It froze hard again last night and this morning we awoke to a high overcast with only 8” inches of snow on the ground. Had breakfast sponsored by the town of RMH in the local ice hockey rink. Portaged the 16 canoes to Rocky Mountain House Provincial Park for the 11:00 morning launch. Quite a colorful sight, everyone dressed in colorful costumes and many canoes flying flags from the stern of their canoes. One canoe tried to cross the river to the landing site, hit a lone bridge abutment and tipped over. No one was seriously hurt but a reminder that the river was very cold and unforgiving of even small mistakes (it proved to me the only mishap on our part of the voyage.) Made only 24 miles through some rough water before beaching the canoes on 5 foot snowdrifts at the mouth of the Baptist River. Returned to RMH and ate a delicious dinner prepared again by the town of RMH. Weather prevented observations.

May 11, 2008: Baptist River to Drayton Valley: a fine day. It froze again last night. Had breakfast sponsored by the town of RMH. About 6:00 am launched the 16 canoes off of the snowdrifts and made 57 miles through some rough water before beaching the canoes at the town of Drayton Valley. Cloudy and cold in the morning turning to cold and rain in the afternoon. Had a delicious dinner prepared by the town of Drayton Valley. Weather prevented observations.

May 12, 2008: Drayton Valley to St. John’s School: a fine day. It rained last night but did not freeze. Awoke at 5:00 to a high overcast. Launched the canoe around 6:30 and made 52 miles through good water before beaching the canoes at St. John’s School. Cloudy and cold in the morning turning sunny in the afternoon. John Haggerty led the brigade to the dining hall playing his bagpipes. Had a delicious dinner prepared and served by the students of the school. Later took some shots for latitude and longitude.

May 13, 2008: St. John’s School to Devon: a very fine day. Much warmer last night. We awoke @ 5:00 to sunshine and a light breeze. Launched the canoe around 6:30 and made 52 miles through good water before beaching the canoes at Devon. Sunny with cloudy periods all day. Overcast in the evening preventing observations. As part of the festivities, five canoes participated in a canoe race. Younger fellows from Cree Nation/Cumberland House took an early lead but was overtaken at the very last second of the race by the veteran paddlers in the Canadian Voyageurs canoe. Ken Allred from Saint Albert, Alberta Land Surveyor, Vice President of FIG and member of the Alberta Legislature joined us for dinner and festivities. Speeches were made by the mayor and other dignitaries. Had a delicious dinner of buffalo prepared by the town of Devon with dancing entertainment after.

May 14, 2008: Devon to Fort Saskatchewan: a very fine day. We awoke to sunshine and no wind. Had breakfast @ 5:30 prepared by Floss & Delores. Launched the canoe around 6:30 and made 48 miles through good water before beaching the canoes at Fort Saskatchewan. Attended the dedication of a new park established to honor David Thompson and his voyageurs. Had a delicious dinner prepared by the town of Fort Saskatchewan with entertainment and their world famous “Sheep Drop” contest where they actually drop sheep from about 100’ up in the air. The sheep are small stuffed animals with names written on them that are dropped over a bull’s eye. Closest sheep to the bull’s eye wins. Beautiful evening but did not take any observations.

May 15, 2008: Fort Saskatchewan to Victoria Settlement: a very fine day. Cool in the morning with sunshine, no wind. At 5:30 had a hot breakfast and grabbed lunch prepared by Floss & Delores. Launched the canoe around 6:30 and made 49 miles through good water before beaching the canoes at Victoria Settlement. Afternoon sunny with much wind coming down the river. Rigged a sail using my tent fly; worked reasonably well. Camping very difficult that evening and parked the vehicles in a circle to cut down on the wind. Visited old church and Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post. This is the first night Floss & Delores had to cook supper (after providing all lunches and more than a few breakfasts). Had a delicious dinner of rib steaks with fixin’s prepared by Floss and Delores. Beautiful evening but did not take any observations; too windy even with parallel glasses over the mercury and tray. Wind died down after 10:00 that evening.

May 16, 2008: Victoria Settlement to Duvernay: a very fine day. Cool in the morning with sunshine, no wind. Had breakfast prepared by Floss & Delores. Made 46 miles through good water before beaching the canoes at Two Hills near Duvernay. Afternoon sunny but with much wind coming down the river. Rigged tent fly again for sail. Camping very difficult because of the wind. Parked trucks in circle again to cut down on the wind but did not do much good. Had a wonderful dinner prepared by the people of the community with Ukrainian entertainment in the evening. Later there was a wonderful display of fireworks in honor of the brigade. All communities to date have been very hospitable, most providing wonderful dinners and breakfast the following morning. Local grass fire made for an unforgettable sunset. John Haggerty played his bagpipes while we watched the sun go down. No observations; too windy even with parallel glasses over the mercury and tray. Wind died around 10:00.

May 17, 2008: Duvernay to Elk Point: a very fine day. Day dawned cool and sunny. Made 38 miles through shallow water to town of Elk Point; home to the huge statue of Hudson’s Bay Company surveyor Peter Fidler. Large welcome with speeches by the mayor and local dignitaries, then parade to campground. Dinner was supplied in the local hockey rink by the town of Elk Point with entertainment and fireworks after. Elk Point was the end of the first leg of the journey for six of our original crew. Sad good byes were made to those leaving but welcomed five new crew members. Cloudy in evening. No observations.

May 18, 2008: Elk Point to Buckingham House to Heinsburg: a very fine day. This was supposed to be our first day of rest but plans were changed. Made 21 miles through shallow water to Buckingham House and then to Heinsburg. Buckingham House has a large visitor center with nice display of information on David Thompson and the types of instruments that he used. Camped back in Elk Point for the night where Floss & Delores cooked another remarkable dinner. Cloudy again in the evening. No observations.

May 19, 2008: Heinsburg to Fort Pitt: a very fine day. Cool and sunny. Launched the canoe around 7:30 in the morning. About mid-day crossed into the province of Saskatchewan. Made 38 miles through shallow water but strong up-river winds to site of old Fort Pitt where we were greeted by the local Fort Pitt Hutterite Colony and local dignitaries. The Hutterites provided all entertainment and fabulous dinner of fried chicken, corn on the cob, home baked breads, hand churned butter, local vegetables etc. for the evening topped off with hand made ice cream and home made pies. Unforgettable. Afterwards we treated them to trips up and down the North Saskatchewan River in our voyager canoes.

May 20, 2008: Fort Pitt to Pine Island: first hard day. Woke @ 5:00 AM to cool and cloudy conditions. Half way through the day we encounter very strong winds coming up the river making paddling very difficult. With much effort made 57 miles to pull out near Pine Island. Pine Island was the site of numerous different fur trading posts over the years. Camped in local campground a great distance from our take-out. Another great dinner by Floss and Delores. Evening was cold, wet and windy. No observations.

May 21, 2008: Pine Island to Battlefords: Woke @ 5:30 AM to hard, cold rain with forecasts for very strong winds coming up the river again. A few canoes left early in the morning and made the distance of 43 miles. Spent most of the day portaging canoes on trailers to the Fort Battleford National Historical Site. John Haggerty again “piped” us all into the welcome by the town with his bagpipes. Dinner complements of Floss and Delores. Evening cool and cloudy, no observations.

May 22, 2008: Battlefords to Borden Bridge: a fine day but windy. Rose @ 5:00 AM and launched our canoe around 6:30. Made 59 difficult miles because of strong wind coming up the river and the numerous shallow channels. Our afternoon crew chose one of the wrong channels and was delayed. Because of strong winds and wrong turns, about eight of the canoes ran out of time and had to be trailered to our campsite at the Borden Bridge. Arrived in the dark to a wonderful dinner prepared by Floss & Delores. Gordon Webster, past president of the Saskatchewan Land Surveyors and his wife stopped by for dinner and to deliver an award to our fearless leader; Monroe Kinloch. Monroe received honorable mention for the coveted David Thompson Award that is presented by the Canadian Association of Land Surveyors. Too tired for observations.

May 23, 2008: Borden Bridge to Fort Carlton: a fine day but with strong up river winds. Rose again @ 5:00 for breakfast prepared by Floss & Delores. Launched around 6:30. Made 48 difficult miles through strong winds and many channels, some very shallow and dead ends to Fort Carlton National Historical Site. John Haggerty again piped us into the fort for entertainment and a wonder buffet meal sponsored by the folks at Fort Carlton featuring Cree Indian dancing. One of the best nights we had for food and entertainment.

May 24, 2008: Fort Carlton to Prince Albert: a very fine day. Last day of the voyage for all of us in the Alberta Land Surveyors Canoe. Made 51 miles through good water and arrived in Prince Albert for the official town welcome by local mayor and also the chief of the Cree Nation in the area and leader of the large Métis population. Festivities featured a buffalo feast with bannock bread and trimmings. Again, the locals really gave us a warm welcome. Said good byes that night to our many friends in the 10 voyager canoes that would make the trip the rest of the way to Fort William on Thunder Bay, Ontario.

May 25 & 26, 2008: Prince Albert to Revelstoke and then home: left very early Sunday morning for home.

What did I learn in these 15 days? That is was entirely too short a time to spend with such great companions. Also, Canadian land surveyors are unfailingly polite; however they are not nearly as reserved as I earlier believed. Also the small communities (and I mean small) we passed through unfailingly welcomed us with open arms, dinner, entertainment and most of the time, breakfast. I think we also came away with a better understanding of what the original voyagers went through even though our canoes were not loaded with 90 lb. beaver pelts. THE MAN WHO WENT EVERYWHERE. D a v i d T h o m p s o n: North America’s Great Surveyor Born; April 30, 1770, Died; February 10, 1857

“He was plainly dressed, quiet and observant. His figure was short and compact, and his black hair was worn long all around and cut square, as if by one stroke of the shears, just above the eyebrows. His complexion was of the gardener’s ruddy brown, while the expression of deeply furrowed features was friendly and intelligent, but his cut-short nose gave him an odd look… Never mind his Bunyan-like face and cropped hair; he has a very powerful mind, and a singular clarity for picture-making. He can create a wilderness and people it with warring savages, so clearly and palpably, that only shut your eyes and you heard the crack of the rifle, or feel the snow-flakes on your cheeks as he talks.”

No known picture or portrait of North America’s greatest land geographer exists. The man that mapped over 1.5 million square miles of North American and traveled over 55,000 miles by foot, horseback, dogsled and canoe is largely forgotten.