THUMB DIRECTORY TAB 715 . that comes with that comes with © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Kathimerini International Herald Tribune International Herald code 2 when you buy DVDs to watch DVDs to watch code 2 when you buy back home. and three hours ahead and three during daylight time. saving measures. into plugging two-pin adaptor before 50Hz).electricity (220V AC, supply the English-language the daily reading edition of the TV channels and an assort- free-to-air ment of pay TV channels. is region Greece that Be aware hours ahead is two Greece of GMT/UTC weights and for Use the metric system Plug your electrical appliances into a affairs by current Keep up with Greek Channel hop through a choice of nine „ „ „ „ „ „ BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE and rec- accommodation reviews For more ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. thorough and independent. Reviews are Best of all, you can book online. PRACTICALITIES PRACTICALITIES Throughout this book we have divided ac- Throughout this book we have Rip-offs rarely occur, but if you do suspect occur, rarely Rip-offs modation owners will charge the maximum will charge modation owners price, but in spring and autumn, prices will by even more drop by up to 20%, and perhaps in winter. been by an accom- exploited that you have to it you report sure modation owner, make police, either the tourist police or the regular act swiftly. and they will (up to €60), mid- commodation into budget (€60 to €150) and top end categories range in high rate sea- (€150+). This is a per-person son (July and August). Unless otherwise stated, bathroom facilities. private all rooms have Accommodation 715 Accommodation Accommodation owners may add a 10% Accommodation owners

Activities717 Business Hours 719 Children ChartsClimate 721 Courses 721 Customs Dangers & Annoyances Discount Cards Embassies & Consulates & Events Festivals 725 Food 719 Travellers Gay & Lesbian 725 Holidays 720 722 725 Insurance Access Internet 722 Matters Legal Maps 726 722 Money 727 725 723 & Video Photography Post 728 Shopping 729 Solo Travellers 729 Telephone 730 Time 726 Toilets 730 726 Tourist Information 728 with Disabilities Travellers 731 Visas Women Travellers Work 731 729 731 730 731 ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION There is a range of accommodation avail- accommodation of is a range There able in Greece to suit every taste and pocket. and pocket. to suit every taste able in Greece subject to strict price All places to stay are controls set By law, a police. by the tourist notice must be displayed in every room, which the room and the price of the category states season. in each The price includes a charged 8% VAT. 4.5% community tax and nights, less than three for a stay of surcharge but this is not mandatory. A mandatory 20% is levied if an extra bed is put of charge into a room. During July and August, accom- CONTENTS D i r e c t o r y DIRECTORY Athens) 1560; www.panhellenic-camping-union.gr;Solonos102, single, and €35to€55fora double, depending topay from€25to€40 fora C class.Expect budget travellers. They are classified A,Bor are generally high. ofequipped kitchens. Standards cleanliness Somecomecompleteily house. withfully are purpose-built appendages tothefam- to travellers insummer; nowadays,many in thefamilyhomethatcouldberented out littlemoretia comprised thanspare rooms minus thebreakfast. Onceuponatimedoma- equivalent of theBritishbedandbreakfast, Domatia (literally ‘rooms’)are theGreek Domatia cover foryour bag. sleeping have afoampadtolieonandwaterproof bag.It’sagoodidea to sleeping lightweight insummer;youcangetcan sleep bywitha ered areas where touristswhodon’thave tents the stars. Many campinggroundshave cov- outunder tosleep weather iswarmenough at around€6;carcostsare typically€4 to €5. forlarge€5 pernight tents. sites Caravan start forsmalltents,cost from€4pernight andfrom charge forchildren aged underfour. Tent sites to €4forchildren aged fourto12.There’s no grounds charge from€5to€7peradultand€3 totheendof through August.Mostcamping months of operation. all itscampinggrounds,theirfacilitiesand Association Camping AprilandOctober.between The often a swimming pool. kitchens, restaurants andminimarkets –and facilitiesincludehotshowers,tions. Standard and alotof themare situated ingreat loca- exceptionofnotable the SaronicGulfislands– in Greece location–withthe inalmostevery mer. There are almost350 camping grounds isagoodoption,especiallyinsum- Camping Athens. even islands asyouwouldincentralGreece or priceforadoubleononeofthe same the andlocation.Don’texpecttopay the season prices inGreece asrates dependentirely on togeneralise accommodation It’s difficult 716 Camping Camping fees are from15June Camping highest Most campinggroundsare openonly Domatia remain apopular optionfor May the and mid-September Between IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY publishesanannualbookletlisting

(Map (Map pp104-5 ; % /fax 210362 Panhellenic a dormandyoudon’thave tobeamember and ontheislandsof Crete andSantorini. ympia, Patra onthemainland, andThessaloniki ens) % by the costs €1.80perday. there;card tostay temporary membership Hostel ( p131 tion (IYHF),theAthensInternational Youth ated totheInternational YouthHostel Federa- There isonlyoneyouth hostel inGreece affili- Hostels of theiraccommodation. of owners whoare vagueabout thelocation mistake nottotake upanoffer –butbewary itcanprovetheir rooms.Inpeakseason, a room!’ andoften carryingphotographs of andboats,shouting ‘Room, buses They meet ers are outinforce,toutingforcustomers. October. and lation. Many are April openonlybetween island thathasapermanentpopu- most every mainland (exceptinlarge cities)andonal- Domatiaareto stay. the foundthroughout andhowlongyouplan or private, theseason on theclass,wheth have to payextraforhot water. snack bar, bathroomsare shared andyoumay E-classrooms donothavenot guaranteed. a solar-heated water, which meanshotwater is with private bathrooms,and theymayhave will share bathrooms,butthere maybesome may ornothave snackbars, most rooms timesofable atcertain theday.D-classhotels bathrooms, buthotwater mayonlybeavail- hotels have asnackbar,roomshave private hot water.bathrooms andconstant C-class class hotels have many amenities,private greater relevance toguests. –allelementsthatmaybeofness of staff cleanliness, comfortof thebeds andfriendli- of of bathroomstobeds,ratherthanstandards whether ornottheyhave abar,andtheratio accordingtothesizeofegorised theroom, ries: deluxe, A,B,C,DandE.Hotels are cat- Hotels inGreece are dividedintosixcatego- Hotels inanyofstay them.Few have curfews. As onewouldexpect,deluxe, A- andB- Hostel rates varyfrom €8to€11forabedin domatiaown- From JunetoSeptember Most otheryouthhostels inGreece are run . There are hostels affiliated inAthens,Ol- 210 7519530;www.athens-yhostel.com;Damareos 75,Ath- Greek Youth Hostel Organisation YouthHostel Greek ). You don’t need amembership ).Youdon’tneed er bathroomsare shared lonelyplanet.com

(Map (Map p100 ; good place to start yoursearch. good place tostart islands, the local of theplaces are inAthens. Inruralareas and not often much of in aguidetoprice. Rates the doorof each room.Theclassificationis a roommustbedisplayedonboardbehind and themaximumrate thatcanbecharged for lonelyplanet.com section ofsection the modation, it’sworth checking theclassified villas iswww.greekislands.com. Agood site stay. to spotprospectiveweek’s In factsomeowners mayinsiston aminimum oftion isbestforastay more thanthree days. can alsosave catering. Thisop- moneybyself a larger numberof peopleunderoneroof and main advantage isthatyoucanaccommodate be owners’ homesthattheyare notusing.The ists whileothers –villasinparticularmay ment orvilla. Many are purpose-built fortour- comfortistorentmaximise afurnished apart- A really practicalwaytosave onmoneyand Accommodation Rental class hotel. C-class sion and pricetoaB-classhotel, aB-class A-class They are divided intoA,BorCclass.An Pensions Pensions p730 copies are available atallEOT branches. See & Ski Centres tion) publication The EOT ( Greek NationalTourist Organiza- ataround€7,dependingonthefacilities. start andskiingclubs.Prices ous mountaineering ern lodges. Theyare runbythecountry’svari- no cookingfacilitiestovery mod- comfortable range fromsmallhutswithoutdoortoiletsand the Greek mainland,Crete andEvia. They There are 55 refugesmountain dotted around Refuges Mountain much higher. €90 to€120fordoubles.A-class pricesare not range from€50to€80forsingles,and and €45to€80foradouble. PricesinBclass inCclass season to €60forasingleinhigh rable withdomatia. Youcanpayfrom€35 D- andE-classhotels are generally compa- Prices are controlledbythetouristpolice If you’re lookingforlong-term accom- isequivalenttoaC-classhotel anda formore informationonEOT. pension pension are indistinguishable fromhotels. has details about each hasdetails refuge; Athens News DIRECTORY ••Activities DIRECTORY isequivalenttoaD-orE- isequivalentinamenities kafeneio Greece: Mountain Refuges (coffee house) isa (coffee house) – although most –although pen- Paleokastritsa ( p687 traction kites and paraglidingisconsidered windsurfing, snowboarding, wakeboarding, This relatively new actionsportthat combines Kitesurfing hikes on Crete andinthe Cyclades. Olympus andMeteora. Thecompanyalsoruns (Peloponnese) hike toaweek-long around Mt four-hour theLousiosValley strollthrough which offers avarietyof hikes rangingfrom a The biggest of themisTrekking Hellas ( p130 unmarked viarough mote trails. settlements withsheepfolds orlinkre-link settlements include shepherd’s trailsor dozed tomake wayfornewroads.Other paths Byzantine times.Sadly,manyhave bull- been paths anddate backto thatlinksettlements paths; faraway.Youwillencounternever avarietyof get intodangerorroadsare assettlements Youarepathways foryourself. unlikely to for informationonhikingmaps. Epiros ( p329 You’llfindEOSbranchesand maintained. in as themostpopularroutes are wellwalked underfunded. Butdon’tbeputoff bythis, % organisations inGreece, overgrown andinadequately marked. Like all drawback –manyof thepaths inGreece are It wouldbeahikers’ but forone paradise More thanhalf of Greece ismountainous. Hiking Parga (Epiros)onthemainland. thos ( p659 Mykonos, Paros, SantoriniandSkia- Rhodes, Hydra ( p357 and Rethymno( p479 the islandsof Corfu( p687 of theAegean. There are divingschools on to protect themanyantiquitiesindepths of adivingschool. Thislawexists supervision tus isstrictlyforbiddenotherthanunderthe under water activityusingbreathing appara- Karpathos, Velanio ( p663 good placesare Ammoöpi( p537 where alongthecoastof Greece. Especially Snorkelling Snorkelling can beenjoyedjustabout any- & Diving ACTIVITIES A numberof companiesrunorganised hikes. Diving isanothermatter. Anykindof On smallislandsitcanbefuntodiscover 210 321 2429; Plateia Kapnikareas 2,Athens) 210 3212429;PlateiaKapnikareas kalderimia ),Glyfada( p126 ),Crete ( p479 ), Leros ( ),Leros p576 are thecobbledorflagstone )onCorfu. )onCrete, Evia ( p650 ),inAgios Nikolaos )andEvia. See p726 )onSkopelosand EOS )nearAthens,and ),Milos( p440 monopatia

(Greek AlpineClub; )insouthern isgrossly that 717

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DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY sport. lar localesinGreece forthisgrowingaction erly wind) can make conditions difficult in erly wind)canmake conditionsdifficult from the stresses of city life. ofsearch a wildernessexperience asarelease Greeks, in particularly Athenians,headoff idly inrecent years as more and more urban other river adventure sportshasgrownrap- The popularityof white-water raftingand Rafting White-water school and slalom centre. Bay) www.passage.gr; Neorion with oneorganisation, Athens isaparticularlywellorganised locale the centralAegean. Theislandof Porosnear tricky monthwhenthe a very activity.Augustcanbea pleasant waters of theAegean, water-skiing canbe of mostislandsandthegenerally warm Kythira, Paros and Skiathos. There are three islands withwater-ski centres: Water-skiing report.gr. snow conditionsontheinternet at www.snow 7, Servias .org.gr; Karageorgi Syntagma, Athens). ing Federation fromthe tion mayalsobeobtained Centres up acopyof end of April.Forfurtherinformation pick but runsapproximately fromJanuary tothe resorts of northernEurope. alternativeand canbeapleasant totheglitzy by Greeks. Theyhave allthebasicfacilities resorts;holidays tothese theyare mainly used of There Thessaloniki. are noforeign package of Athens, andMtVermio ( northwest 195km p301 (p237), Parnassos Mt are mainly inthenorth.Themainskiingareas ofaround themountains mainlandGreece, ing inEurope. There are 16resorts dotted Greece provides someof thecheapest ski- Skiing ( The surfing andflyingonshort butfatsurfboards. tooned withathleticyoungsurfers alternately beaches of Greece are beginningtobefes- one of themostextreme water sports.The 718 % The season dependsonsnowconditions The season Given the relatively calmandflat waters You’ll findinformationabout thelatest 69445 17963;www.gwa.gr) Greek Wakeboard and Kite Surf Association Surf andKite Wakeboard Greek IETR • Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY fromanEOT office( p730

(Map (Map pp102-3 Greece: Mountain Refuges &Ski ; , hostingapopular % Passage has details of hasdetails popu- meltemi 210 3230182;press@ski ),110kmwest (

% (northeast- ).Informa- 22980 42540; Hellenic Ski-

Vasiliki ( p698 in theworldtolearnsport,whileAfiarti ing tosome,Vasiliki isoneof thebestplaces tion of thebestwindsurfingbeach. Accord- on the Ladonas River inthePeloponnese,on theLadonas give lessons. novice, mostplacesthatrent equipmentalso an hour,dependingonthegear. Ifyou are a rywhere. Hire charges range from€10to€15 windsurfers. ( p537 in Greece. HrysiAkti( p399 Windsurfing isthemostpopularwater sport Windsurfing interest. localswhosharetime meeting acommon touristsareelse, sure to have aninteresting ers are madeespeciallywelcome. Whatever the participants,speakEnglish andforeign- Greece. throughout ympics, aswellonanotherthree rivers which hosted thekayaking atthe2004Ol- Anargyron, Psyrri) Evinos, nearNafpaktosin Sterea Ellada. intheLousios/AlphiosandRivercialises in EpirosandtheRiver Aheloos in Thessaly. Rivers inthePeloponnese, theRiver Arahthos possibilities, includingtheLousios/Alphios regulations, entry andexitports andguide- conditions, weatherbulletins, entryandexit lots ofcontains informationaboutweather Seas, visit remote anduninhabited islands. and thefreedom ofthe opensea, beingable to lands. Nothingbeatstheexperience of sailing Yachting theGreek is- is thebestwaytosee Yachting for more information. tion the again. Contact the boardwillbetaken out of thecountry national residing inGreece toguarantee that tions. Theoretically, importers aGreek need and theUS,issubjecttosomequaintregula- from otherdestinations,such asAustralia other EUcountries,buttheimportof boards The free EOT booklet Sailboards canbeimported freely from All theguides/instructors, andmostof Alpin Club You’ll find sailboards forhireYou’ll findsailboards almosteve- Eco Action Trekking Hellas ( p130

(Map (Map pp102-3 although longoverdue although foranupdate, )onKarpathos isfor more experienced

(

( % % offers raftingandkayaking ) on Lefkada viefortheposi- )onLefkada ; 210 6753514/5;www.alpinclub.gr) 210 331 7866; www.ecoaction.gr; Agion 210 3317866;www.ecoaction.gr; % 210 3233696;Filellinon 4,Athens) Hellenic Windsurfing Associa- Hellenic Windsurfing )offers halfadozen Sailing the Greek )onParos, and lonelyplanet.com spe- there are otheroptionsopentoyou. several in Greece (see in Greece (see p730 let atanyGNTO/EOT office eitherabroad or books foryachties. Youcanpickupthebook- lonelyplanet.com while restaurants intourist areas remain open 7pm and1am, to 3pm,and fordinnerbetween places are normallyopenfor lunch from11am blades andshaving cream. thing frombustickets andcigarettes torazor every- morning untillate They sell atnight. are onSunday. closed from 8amtoatleast3pmonSaturday and open from8amto8pmMonday Friday, tourist resorts are daysaweek. openseven not alwaysstrictlyadhered to. Many shops in minutes later duringwinter. timesare These day, WednesdayandSaturday.Shops open30 Friday, andfrom8amto2.30pmonMon- 5.30pm to8.30pmonTuesday,Thursday and shops are from8amto1.30pmand to 2pmSaturday. openuntil8pm,andfrom7.30am stay Monday toFriday.Inthemajor citiesthey and 8amto1.30pmSaturday. 3.30pmand6.30pmonweekdays between Some banksinlarge townsandcitiesopen Thursday, andfrom8amto1.30pmFriday. areBanks open from8amto2pmMonday HOURS BUSINESS yachts. information about yachting andchartering to theendof September. operate fromearlyMay weekly Both cruises of anEnglish-speaking guide. and theservices are pricedfrom€700,andincludehalf-board boats onboardthese Thursday.every Berths leaving cruises Rhodes Dodecanese seven-day leavingcruises Saturday,and Corfuevery Athens 11742). % fered by tohireextra €840perweek askipper. a 28-footer six.Itwillcostan thatwillsleep certificate. for at€1000perweek Pricesstart a crew) iftwo crew members have asailing You canhire abare boat(ayacht without If yourbudget won’tcover buyingayacht, Periptera Department stores andsupermarkets are In summer,theusualopeninghours for Hellenic Yachting Server Restaurant hoursRestaurant varyenormously.Most arePost offices openfrom7.30amto2pm Individuals cancheck of- outthecruises 210 3255000;www.ghiolman.com;Propyleon,Acropolis, Ghiolman Yachts &Travel Ghiolman has seven-day Ionian Ghiolmanhasseven-day (street kiosks)are openfromearly DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY forlocations).

(www.yachting.gr) (off Map (off Map pp102-3

has ; They are alsoavailable everywhere. onthe road. curse, buttheycanbea godsend andheat-treatedcondensed milk. look. Formulais available everywhere, asis islands. Supermarkets are thebestplaceto tourist areas, buthardertofindonsmaller ferries. orfrontpouches are Backpacks best. steps, whengetting andacurse and buses on/off They are stonepaths hopelessonrough andup spend allyourtimeinoneof thefew flatspots. inGreecemuch use unless you’re goingto small children. Strollers (pushchairs) aren’t to feeding hungrykids. most restaurants isgoodnewswhenitcomes in will dotheirbesttohelp.Thefastservice chairs, mosthotels although andrestaurants with otherkids. there’s astrong possibilityof makingfriends they alsohave of all, cotsandhighchairs. Best facilities like paddlingpoolsandplaygrounds, upforfamilieswithchildren.is set As wellas a resort hotel bythebeach, where everything Travelling isespeciallyeasyifyou’re at staying Practicalities tips forkids(www.greece4kids.com). Amarandihasputtogetherdaughter some .com) haslotsof tipsforparents, useful while communicate inEnglish. advancedwiththeirstudiesto sufficiently 12, bywhich timemanylocalchildren are torecedebarrier starts bytheage of about ofcause thelanguage barrier. Thelanguage children tend toplayathome andpartlybe- children Greek theirownage, partlybecause to have much success making friendswith be madethecentre of attention. for makingafuss of children, whowillalways travel with children. Greeks are well-known Greece isasafe andrelatively easy placeto CHILDREN later onFridayandSaturday. atabout4am, before Theyclose midnight. at least10pm;it’srare tofindmuch of acrowd don’tusuallyopenuntil discos andnightclubs openuntilmidnight. and stay normally openatabout 10am, all day.Cafés Mobility isanissue forparents withvery Matt Barrett’s website (www.greektravel openfromaboutBars 8pm untillate, while Disposable nappiesareDisposable anenvironmental Fresh milkisavailable inlarge townsand Elsewhere, it’s rare to findcotsandhigh- Despite this,it’srare foryounger children

719 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY climatic regions. NorthernMacedonia and CHARTS CLIMATE somewhere like the‘labyrinth’atKnossos. imaginations gointooverdrive whenletloose how much theirchildren enjoythem.Young ancient sites. Many parents are by surprised recreational facilities. is ashortage of decentplaygroundsandother If you’re travelling around,themainproblem Activities & Sights Kids aged twoto12payhalf-fare. have achild undertwosittingonyourknee. you’llpay10%oftic flights, theadultfare to trains). Fullfares Ondomes- applyotherwise. up totheage of 10(ferries) and or12(buses for children underfour. Theypayhalf-fare 720 Greece can be dividedintoanumberof main CORFU CRETE (IRAKLIO) ATHENS C°F °C C°F °C C°F °C 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 20 20 20 Don’t beafraidtotake children tothe Travel onferries, andtrainsisfree buses 0 0 0 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND IETR • CiaeCat ••ClimateCharts DIRECTORY Temp Temp Temp 4m (13ft) 15m (49ft) in in in 2 4 5 8 2 4 5 8 2 4 5 8 0 0 0 39m (128ft) 104 104 104 32 32 32 50 68 50 68 50 68 86 86 86 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 mm mm mm pressure differences NorthAfrica between byairthe Cyclades.Thewindiscaused Athens) andtheAegean Islands,especially ern coastof mainlandGreece (including theeast- strong northerlywindthatsweeps August are alsothemonths of the just about anywhere inthecountry.Julyand can soarto40°C(over 100°F)intheshade in Athens.InJulyandAugust,themercury occasionallysnow ing thewinter, anditdoes andCreteponnese are covered insnowdur- of mountains thePelo-1992), butthehigh on Paros forthefirst timein15years in summers and milder winters. typically Mediterranean climate withhot,dry central andeastern Peloponnese have amore Crete,the Cyclades,Dodecanese, andthe humid summers; whiletheAtticaPeninsula, withfreezing wintersBalkans, andvery hot, northern Epiroshave aclimate similartothe THESSALONIKI RHODES LESVOS (MYTILINI) C°F °C C°F °C C°F °C 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 20 20 20 Snow israre intheCyclades(itsnowed 0 0 0 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Temp Temp Temp 11m (36ft) in in in 2 4 5 8 2 4 5 8 2 4 5 8 0 0 0 4m (13ft) 104 104 104 32 32 32 50 50 68 50 68 68 86 86 86 5m (16ft) JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND lonelyplanet.com Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall meltemi, Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 mm mm mm a hanging out to dry. flying –frombeach umbrellas towashing with ferry everything schedules andsends ing: itreduces humidity,butplayshavoc Thewindisamixedand theBalkans. bless- lonelyplanet.com language proficiency are catered for. language, culture andliterature. of Alllevels 7km fromEvdilos, offers courses inGreek .hcc.gr; volve 60hours of classwork. The three-week courses cost€1150,andin- on theislandof inJuneandJuly. Spetses in thesuburbof Mets, andalsorunscourses Athens) 48,Mets, .athenscentre.gr; Arhimidous lands in summer. but there are also specialcourses ontheis- of thecourses are inAthens( based p129 isagoodwaytogoabout it.Most your stay language, anintensive of course atthestart If youare about learningtheGreek serious Language August. its headquarters inPlakaduringJuly and runs one-week courses forforeigners at The DoraStratouDanceCompany( p141 Dance more information on cooking courses. torini, Kea, IkariaandCrete. See p90 It is possibletodo cooking courses onSan- Cooking COURSES p20 see sunshine. and occasional winter dayswithclearblueskies wet untilFebruary there –although are also most areas, coldand andtheweatherstays November. to island’s southerncoastfrommid-April warm thelongest –youcanswimoff the and theMediterranean climates. Crete stays climate ofthe Balkan-type northernGreece the Pelion Peninsula fallsomewhere between Northeastern Aegean Islands,Halkidiki and are theareas rainfall.The withthehighest severe winters thannorthernGreece, but Islands escapethe Ellada, southwestern EpirosandtheIonian Athens Centre Athens inMid-October iswhentherainsstart Hellenic Culture Centre Hellenic Culture For tipsonthebesttimestovisitGreece, The western Peloponnese, western Sterea h . May-Oct)

DIRECTORY ••Courses DIRECTORY , inthevillage of Arethousa, (Map (Map p100 meltemi

( % ; % 22750 61139/40;www 210 7012268;www andhave less is l ocated for ), ) Holidays island of Anotheroperator, Lefkada. region of onthe Epiros,followedbyaweek offers inthewonderfulZagorohoria aweek specialises intours tothePelionspecialises Peninsula. .com) while from anarchaeological site. an offence toremove thesmallest article even Itis inthepenaltiesimposed. drug smuggling onlyto export permit.This crimeissecond ties (anythingover 100years old)withoutan intoGreecesailboards (see p718 must declare thesumuponentry. foreign banknotes inexcessof US$1000, you Greece. Ifyouintend toleave thecountrywith and travellers cheques into maybebrought ing doctor’scertificate. codeine intoGreece withoutanaccompany- leave home. totake Itisillegal,forinstance, get fromyourdoctorbefore astatement you if youare medication,make taking sure you Import regulations for medicinesare strict; on entry,sothattheycanbere-exported. into Greece isfree, buttheymustbedeclared certificate). ment; anddogscats(withaveterinary recorder; alaptopcomputer; sportsequip- radioortape sical instrument;aportable and film;apairof binoculars; mu- aportable of eaudeCologne;onecamera (stillorvideo) spirits or2Lof wine;50mlof perfume;250mL duty-free: 200cigarettes or50cigars; 1Lof that isrequired. your bags.Averbal declarationisusuallyall checks, butyouprobably won’thave toopen sory forforeign tourists.There maybespot the EU,customsinspectionisusuallycur- arerandom searches stillmadefordrugs. that customschecks have with; dispensed been within theEU. notmean,however, Thisdoes There are nolonger duty-free restrictions CUSTOMS range of possibilities. popular, andBritish touroperators offer a Painting courses are becomingincreasingly Painting It isstrictlyforbiddentoexportantiqui- ofRestrictions applytotheimportation ofImportation worksof artandantiquities Upon entering thecountryfromoutside An unlimited amountof foreign currency You maybringthefollowingintoGreece Simply Travel runs two-week tours runstwo-week towestern Crete, Travelux

( % 020 82357800;www.tapestryholidays.com)

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% ( % 015 80764344;www.travelux.co.uk) 020 85412200;www.simply-travel ). Tapestry 721

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DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY pp102-3 in thecapital. run-down onthisscamandotherproblems 722 on busand trainfares. anddiscounts to ancient sites and museums, range of benefitssuch as reduced admission EUpensioners canclaim aCard-carrying Cards Senior CARDS DISCOUNT happy todothis. locked inthehotel safe –hotel proprietors are not locksecurely, askforyourvaluablestobe a hotel room,andthewindowsdoordo tended insuch places.Ifyouare in staying make sure youdonotleave valuablesunat- rooms inhostels andatcampinggrounds.So gest danger of theftisprobably indormitory are stillcommitted byothertourists;thebig- on themetroandatSundayfleamarket. keep trackof yourvaluableshere, especially area isaroundOmoniaincentralAthens– unfortunately itisontheincrease. Theworst Crime, especially theft, islowinGreece, but Theft to Athensatthisstage. See p110 bill. enormous drinks, traveller handedan iseventually what turnouttobeludicrouslyoverpriced locals, charming girlsappearandaskfor strikessex), upconversation withfriendly lured intobaronsomepretext (notalways on thefollowingtheme:solomaletraveller is area. Thebasicscamisalwayssomevariation of life inAthens,particularlytheSyntagma Bar scams continuetobeanunfortunate fact Scams Bar ANNOYANCES & DANGERS be ampleevidence. will from othercountries,apassportstamp it.Otherwise sodon’tlose riving fromItaly) country willbeyourferry ticket stub(ifar- quired. Youronlyproof of entryintothe (international third-partyinsurance)isre- months withoutacarnet;onlygreen card Cars intoGreececan bebrought forsix Vehicles ofsection the at theAntiqueDealers andPrivate Collections The placetoapplyforanexportpermitis The vastmajority of theftsfromtourists Fortunately, thispracticeappears confined IETR • Dnes&Anyne ••Dangers&Annoyances DIRECTORY ; Polygnotou 13, Plaka, Athens) ;Polygnotou13,Plaka, Athens Archaeological Service Archaeological Athens . forthefull (Map (Map

00198) K2POK6) Ontario Pretoria 0028) Pretoria .de; Jaegerstrasse54-55,10117Berlin-Mitte) City, Cairo) Stockholm) 28002) Wellington) JC, TheHague) Aviv 64731) Rue AugusteVacquerie 17,75116Paris) Egypt Denmark Cyprus Canada Bulgaria Australia Albania Greek diplomaticmissionsabroad: Embassies Greek CONSULATES & EMBASSIES .org andwww.istc.org formore information. up€10.Visitwww.euro26 photo andcough proving youare astudent,provide apassport to issuecards.Youmustshow documents national airfares. Students willfindsomegooddealsoninter- are ferries noneto behadonbuses, ortrains. buttherediscounts onsomedomesticflights, tels. Aegean AirlinesandCronusoffer student for discountsatsomebudget hotels andhos- admission andancientsites and to museums (ISIC). ID istheInternational StudentIdentityCard The mostwidelyrecognised formof student Student &YouthCards Switzerland Sweden Spain South Africa Norway New Zealand Netherlands Japan Italy Israel Ireland Germany France Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo106-0031) Minato-ku, Nishi Azabu, 2600) ACT Copenhagen K) Some travel agencies inAthensare licensed cardsqualifytheholdertohalf-price These ( ( ( ( % ( ( ( % % % % ( ( ( ( % % ( % ( % % % ( ( % ( 06-853 7551; Via S Mercadante 36,Rome 06-853 7551;ViaSMercadante % % % % 03-695 3060; Tower Bldg, Daniel Frisch 3,Tel03-695 3060;TowerBldg,DanielFrisch 01-564 4653; Avenida Doctor Arce 24, Madrid 01-564 4653;Avenida Arce 24,Madrid Doctor 02-795 0443;AishaelTaymouria 18,Garden 03-3403 0871; www.greekemb.jp; 3-16-30 03-3403 0871;www.greekemb.jp; 02-680 670/671;Vyronos8-10,Nicosia) 01-47 23 72 28; www.amb-grece.fr/presse; 01-47 237228;www.amb-grece.fr/presse; ( 01-676 7254;1UpperPembroke St,Dublin2) 613-238 6271; 76-80 Maclaren St, Ottawa, St,Ottawa, 613-238 6271;76-80Maclaren ( ( 54-223 959; Ruga Frederik Shiroka, Tirana) Shiroka, 54-223 959;RugaFrederik 2244 2728; Nobels Gate 45,0244Oslo2) 2244 2728;NobelsGate % 08-5456 6010; Riddargatan 60,11457 08-5456 6010;Riddargatan ( 2-946 1027;SanStefano33,Sofia1504) % % 02-6273 3011;9Turrana St,Yarralumla, 30-206 260;www.griechische-botschaft 33-114 533;Borgergade16,1300 % 31-356 1414; Laubeggstrasse,Bern3006) 12-342 7136;1003ChurchSt,Hatfield, 070-363 8700;Amaliastraat1,2514 04-473 7775;5-7WillestonSt, lonelyplanet.com Sofias 91,AthensGR-11521) 60, Marousi, AthensGR-15125) 60, Marousi, 4355; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias106,AthensGR-11521) Athens GR-10675) 2-4,Athens GR-11527) Mesogion GR-106 74) AthensGR-10675) 3,Kolonaki, Dimitriou sis Sofias3,Athens) Athens GR-10675) Psyhiko, AthensGR-15452) AthensGR-11523) Ambelokipi, Alexandras &Kifisias, Holland Park, LondonW113TP) GR-154 52) USA UK Turkey lonelyplanet.com get itwon’tbe much intotrouble. Generally, a citizen –canandcan’t do tohelpifyou the embassy of thecountryof which youare toknowwhatyourembassy– It’s important USA UK Turkey South Africa &Montenegro Serbia New Zealand Netherlands Japan Italy GR-154 52) Israel Ireland Hungary Germany France Egypt Cyprus Canada Bulgaria Australia Albania and itssuburbs. All foreign embassiesinGreece are inAthens Greece in Embassies Georgiou 8,Athens GR-10674) Georgiou AveMassachusetts NW,WashingtonDC20008) 06700,Ankara) Gaziosmanpasa Athens GR-15237) standinou 5-7,AthensGR-15334) 268, Halandri, Athens) 268, Halandri, Konstantinou 5-7,AthensGR-10674) sis Sofias7,AthensGR-10671) Athens GR-11521) ( Mp pp106-7; (Map ( Mp pp106-7; (Map % Mp pp106-7; (Map % ( Mp pp102-3; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map % ( Mp pp106-7 ; (Map Mp p100; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map 020-7229 3850; www.greekembassy.org.uk; 1a 020-7229 3850;www.greekembassy.org.uk; Mp pp106-7; (Map % ( ( 202-939 1300; www.greekembassy.org; 2221 202-939 1300;www.greekembassy.org; Mp pp106-7; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map % % 210 671 9530; Marathonodromou 1,Athens 210 6719530;Marathonodromou 312-448 0647; Zia ur Rahman Caddesi9-11, 312-448 0647;ZiaurRahman Mp pp106-7; (Map Mp p100; (Map Mp pp106-7; (Map 210 675 2300; Kalvou 16,Psyhiko, Athens 210 6752300;Kalvou 210 674 8105; Stratigou Kalari 33a, 210 6748105;StratigouKalari % % DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY % % % % 210 723 6211; Ploutarhou 1, 210 7236211;Ploutarhou % % % % 210 7212951;Leoforos Vasilissis % Mp pp106-7; (Map 210 7232771;Vasileos Kon- 210 361 7260; Sekeri 2,Athens 210 3617260;Sekeri % % 210 3618612;Leoforos Vasilis- % 210 7758101;AthensTower, 210 7237883;Irodotou16, 210 3611663;Leoforos Vasilis- 210 7245915;Vasileos 210 727 3400; Genadiou 4, 210 7273400;Genadiou 210 687 6200; Vekiareli 7, 210 6876200;Vekiareli % 210 8704000;Leoforos 210 728 5111; Karaoli & 210 7285111;Karaoli % 210 7239701;Vasileos 210 680 6645; Kifisias 210 6806645;Kifisias 210 687 4701; Kifisias 210 6874701;Kifisias % 210 777 do thehousework. and othermalehang-outs,whilethemenstay athometo on8January.Womenspendthe day in reversal Greece holdadayofrole innorthern andSeres Kilkis but many derive frompagan festivals.but manyderive There are many celebrations, pre-Lenten carnivals are ostensiblyChristian offasting)iscarnivalseason.The is traditionallyaperiod beforebeginning ofLent Easter,which (the40-dayperiod Cria Season Carnival February Gynaikokratia Epiphany (BlessingoftheWaters) VasiliosFeast (StBasil) ofAgios January be foundatwww.cultureguide.gr. join therevelry. beinvited time,you’llcertainly to at theright tional andregional. Ifyou’re place intheright it covers bothna- events, themostimportant lowing isbynomeansanexhaustive list,but and someacombinationof allthree. Thefol- tural, othersforagoodparty, justanexcuse some ofevents, which are religious, somecul- The Greek yearisasuccessionof festivals and EVENTS & FESTIVALS newspaperseven tend tobeoutof date. stoppedand hasusuallybeen holding service daysthemail home newspapers, butthese travellers orhave asmallreading roomwith travel isoutof thequestion. getting anewpassport,butloanforonward assistwith and documentsstolen,itmight unlikely.ceedingly Ifyouhave allyourmoney to get homeurgently, afree ticket homeisex- have exhausted. Forexample,ifyouneed been butonlyifotherchannelssome assistance, in them.Thelargestceremony occursatPiraeus ( p152 are blessedandcrossesimmersed andrivers lakes uary. Seas, baptism byStJohniscelebratedthroughoutGreece on6Jan- slice containingacoinwillsupposedlyhaveluckyyear. New Year pie singing,dancingandfeasting; the the exchangingofgifts, this festival on1January.Achurchceremony isfollowedby actions are legalinyourowncountry. ifsuchif youcommitacrimelocally,even are in.Your embassywillnotbesympathetic you are boundbythelawsof thecountryyou is remotely yourownfault.Rememberthat help inemergencies ifthetroubleyou’re in More aboutfestivals details can andevents tokeep lettersSome embassiesused for In genuine emergencies get youmight (vasilopita) The villagesoftheprefectures ofRodopi, The three-week period before the period Thethree-week is cut and the person who gets the iscutandthepersonwhogets The year kicks off with offwith Theyearkicks The day of Christ’s ThedayofChrist’s kafeneia ).

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DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY of theAnnunciation,soitisalsoa religious festival. Independence. IndependenceDaycoincideswiththeFeast oftheWar thestart marked ofrevolt act Germanos’ withparadesanddancing. is celebratedon25March atMoniAgiasthe Greek Lavras flagbyBishop Germanos na Delphi. near ( exuberancein Arahova places, butwith particular p238 ), comesfirst).Itiscelebratedatseveral Easter (whichever ortheTuesday placeon23April shepherds, takes following Greece’s patron saint,andpatronsaintofof StGeorge, goat-skin masks and hairy jackets. masksandhairyjackets. goat-skin into grotesque‘half-man,half-beast’creatures bydonning (StGeorge) Georgios Feast ofAgios Easter April Day Independence March Monday) Monday(Clean Shrove carnival ( p163 ThePatra prevail. dancing andgeneralmerrymaking butfancy dress, feasting,regional variations, traditional 724 the with The festival ofGoodFriday beginsontheevening rather thanontheCrucifixion,soitisajoyousoccasion. religion. EmphasisisplacedontheResurrection Orthodox fly kites. tothehillsthroughoutGreece tohavepicnicsandtake before AshWednesday (the firstdayofLent), people of Skyros( p672 streets. placeontheisland Themostbizarre carnivaltakes paradingthroughthe elaborately decoratedchariots risen), towhichthereply is‘ risen), Greek dancing. Theday’sgreeting is‘ Easter eggsandanoutdoorfeast ofroastlambfollowedby ofred-dyed fast endsonEasterSundaywiththecracking processionsthroughthestreets. TheLenten and candle-lit deavour toattendthisceremony, whichendswithfireworks is spellbinding. Ifyouare inGreece atEasteryoushoulden- Itspoignancyandbeauty for itsymbolisestheResurrection. year, follows isthemostsignificantmomentinOrthodox underworld. Theceremony ofthelightingcandlesthat passingthroughthe into darknesstosymboliseChrist’s churchesare plunged Saturday night.Atmidnightpacked at11pmon starts Mass of Agios TheResurrection Georgios. inAthenstotheChapel Hill processions climbsLykavittos viewpoint,themostimpressive ofthese a spectator’s seen intownsandvillagesthroughoutthecountry.From processioncanbe the localchurch.Thismovingcandle-lit throughthestreets to funeralbier)iscarried ing Christ’s Town. Heisparadedagainon 11 August. andjoyously paradedthroughCorfu outforanairing is taken (the mummifiedpatronsaintofCorfu) Sunday, StSpyridon On bothPalm Sunday(thebefore Easter)andEaster perifora epitafiou, IETR • Fsias&Eet ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY Easter is the most important festival intheGreek Easteristhemostimportant )isthelargestandmostexuberant,with )where thementransform themselves whenashroudedbier(represent- The anniversaryofthehoisting Alithos anesti’ Hristos anesti OntheMonday (Truly He is risen). Heisrisen). (Truly Thefeast day ’ (Christ is ’ (Christ Festival ( p358 whowasbornontheisland,atitsMiaoulia Miaoulis, commemorates WarofIndependenceheroAdmiralAndreas in searchoftheGoldenFleece)wasnearcity.Hydra it thatIolkos(fromwhere JasonandtheArgonautssetoff Tinos ( p372 Theislandof so it’sagoodtimetoavoidpublictransport. tion seemstobeonthemoveeithersideof bigday, Day (15August)withfamilyreunions. Thewholepopula- victories. naval clutching iconsdancebarefoot on burning charcoal. Villagers inthevillageofLangadas,nearThessaloniki. May gathered andmadeintowreaths to decorate houses. picnics,wildflowersare from townstothecountry.During throughout Greece thatare dedicatedto the prophet. 20 Julyatthemanyhilltopchurchesandmonasteries world famousTheatre ofEpidavros( p187 ofancientGreek dramaatthe Athens, andperformances ofthe thedeparture Volos re-enacts Hydra eachhaveuniqueversionsofthesecelebrations. healed or baptised. forthousands,whocometobeblessed, of pilgrimage iconofPanagia Itbecomes aplace Evangelistria. working and dramaattheOdeonofHerodesAtticus( p115 summer.during ofmusic,dance Itfeatures performances ofthemanyfestivals stagedthroughoutGreece important Festival Hellenic Feast ofStJohntheBaptist Navy Week June Anastenaria Day May May aohai ol Msc Festival Music World Samothraki Feast oftheAssumption August Folegandros Festival Feast ofProfitisIlias (StMarina) Marina Feast ofAgia July rave party ( rave party p636 playshosttoGreece’s biggest Aegean island ofSamothraki (p540 Kasos ontheDodecaneseislandof event important particularly ofGreece, andisa celebrated on17Julyinmanyparts Peloponnese. the untilthisday,whentheyare burned are kept on bonfires. Day widely celebratedaroundGreece. Wreaths madeonMay throughoutthecountry.Volos( lages andports p250 infishingvil- between Greeks andtheseawithevents locations aroundtheisland’sbeautiful old week-long programmeofmusicandfeasting atarangeof On the first day of May there isamassexodus OnthefirstdayofMay ) gets particularly busybecauseofitsmiracle- )getsparticularly ). Thisfestival celebratesthelongrelationship ), which includes a re-enactment ofonehis ),whichincludesare-enactment This fire-walking ritual takes placeon21 takes ritual Thisfire-walking ) for a week starting attheend )foraweek starting of August. TheHellenicFestival isthemost This feast day iscelebratedon The festival ( p437 Greeks celebrateAssumption This feast dayon24Juneis Argo, lonelyplanet.com This feast day is The Northeast The Northeast ),nearNafplioin forlegendhas hora )features a . )in )and a busygayscene–butmostandlesbian has itsshare of gay hang-outs. tember throughoutGreece withprocessions and hymns. Exaltation oftheCross tisPanagias Gennisis September lonelyplanet.com lished by Bruno Gmünder (Berlin), iswidely lished by BrunoGmünder (Berlin), The Information lesbians. for become somethingof aplaceof pilgrimage birthplace of Sappho,has thelesbianpoet general hedonism,whileSkiathos( p654 famousforits bars,has longbeen beaches and travellers headfortheislands. Mykonos( p381 gay andlesbiantravellers. Athens( p139 coming anextremely populardestinationfor to avoid opendisplays of togetherness. activity,itpaystobediscreethomosexual and cities. Whilethere isnolegislationagainst frowned upon–especiallyoutsidethemajor isgenerally thathomosexuality no surprise itshouldissues such comeas as sexuality, prominent roleinshaping society’sviewson In acountrywhere thechurch still plays a GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS information onGreek cuisine, see p84 the restaurants are listed inbudget order. For top end(over €40),andwithineach section budget (under€15),midrange (€15to€40)and in thisbookare given inthefollowingorder: For large citiesandtowns,restaurant listings FOOD Day Christmas December Ohi (No)Day ( in Thessaloniki p282 Dimitrios Feast ofAgios October folk dancing and feasting. militaryparades, withremembrance services, 28 October free passagethroughGreece inWWII iscommemoratedon revelry. and religious services religious services and feasting. with is celebratedthroughoutGreece on8September including Christmas trees, decorations including Christmas and presents. feasting. Nowadaysmuch‘Western’influenceisapparent, and isstillcelebratedwithreligious services Christmas h iln o Lso (yiii p618), (Mytilini, Lesvos of island The This hasnotprevented Greece frombe- Spartacus InternationalSpartacus GayGuide, Metaxas’ refusal to allow Mussolini’s troops refusal toallowMussolini’s Metaxas’ Although not as important asEaster, Althoughnotasimportant DIRECTORY ••Food DIRECTORY ) on 26 October with wine drinking withwinedrinking )on26October The birthday of the Virgin Mary oftheVirginMary Thebirthday Thisiscelebratedon14Sep- Thisfeast dayiscelebrated . )also ) has )has pub- ) mentation. Somepolicies askyouto callback mentation. to claim later make sure you keep alldocu- pay onthespotand claimlater. Ifyouhave directlyor hospitals rather thanyouhaving to policies. motorcycle licenceisnotvalidunder some hiking.Alocallyacquiredmotorcycling, even ous activities’,which canincludescubadiving, available, socheck thesmallprint. medical costs.There isawidevarietyof policies such astheUSA,which have extremely high onesaretions; thehigher chiefly forcountries op- offer medical-expense lowerandhigher medical problemsisagoodidea. Somepolicies A travel insurance policytocover theft,lossand INSURANCE August. The mainschool holidaysare inJulyand The school yearisdividedintothree terms. Holidays School Day St Stephen’s Day Christmas Ohi Day Feast oftheAssumption Day(Protomagia) May Sunday Easter (Orthodox) Good Friday IndependenceDay Greek First SundayinLent Epiphany New Year’s Day tional publicholidaysinGreece: onpublicholidays.Na- ancient sites close All and banks andshops andmostmuseums Holidays Public HOLIDAYS links. .gayscape.com/gayscape/menugreece.html) and linkstolots more sites. press, andlegalissues– organisations, events on travel information,gayhealth,the wood/2225/) internet. where fromAlexandroupoli to Xanthi. wealth of informationongay venues every- travel a scene. contains TheGreek section Sunday falls on 27 April in 2008 and 19 April in2009. in2008and19April Sunday fallson27April regarded astheleadingauthorityongay Some policiesspecificallyexclude‘danger- website, Another useful You mayprefer a policythatpaysdoctors There’s of alsostacks informationonthe 28October 6January is a good place to start. Ithaspages isagoodplacetostart. Roz Mov Roz March/April 25December 1January 26December February

(www.geocities.com/West Holly- 1 May 15August 25March (April/May) Orthodox Easter Orthodox (April/May) Gayscape haslots of

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725 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY you buyitjustbefore youfly,mayfind nect your laptopifyoudo not have awireless cafés will have anEthernet cabletooto con- ample hasplenty of hotspots.Many internet major Sqin Athensforex- towns.Syntagma at internet cafésorhotels hotspotsin oreven an Ethernetport,youcanconnectseamlessly as yourlaptophasawireless card,oratleast become athingof thepastinGreece. As long Greece’s. with power supplyof yourmachine iscompatible too. thatthe tobecertain Yousimply need you have videocamerawith you alightweight createand youcaneven movies ontheflyif your DVDandCDplayer,photoarchive internet, office: aVoIPphone, your portable a protected daypack.Your laptopbecomes day’s machines are andslipeasilyinto light intouchway tostay withlife backhome. To- €6 foranhourto€2024 hour access. charge. Inmidrange hotels thatwillrange from now offer wi-fi accesseitherforfree orfora internet access. Many internet cafésandhotels islands where available. Somehotels alsooffer forcitiesand under theInformationsection p22 see of websitesselection aboutGreece, useful have listed here been where available. Fora addresses usingemail,andthese businesses a huge increase inthenumberof hotels and ience of the internet bigtime. There hasbeen Greece haslongsinceembracedtheconven- ACCESS INTERNET tention ismore than UK£100. intoliquidationand theamountincon- goes by lawtoreimburse consumers ifacompany creditinstance, cardproviders are required deliver.if theoperatordoesn’t IntheUK,for and youmaybeable toreclaim thepayment sometimes provides limited travel insurance, – preferably aphotocopy. have record aseparate of allyourticket details byindustrialaction.Makecaused sure you you’re notcovered forsuch problemsasdelays see p749 your problem ismade. country where of animmediate assessment (reverse charges) toacentre inyourhome 726 Buy travel insuranceasearlypossible. If Paying foryourticket with acredit card For more informationonhealthinsurance, Travelling withalaptopcomputer isagreat Internet cafés are everywhere, andare listed Dialing uptoconnecttheinternet has IETR • Itre ces ••InternetAccess DIRECTORY . . Drugs and/or alawyer ( insist onaninterpreter ( to bythepolice. Ifyouare arrested bypolice them; foreign visitors are similarlypresumed presumed toalwayshave identificationon the policeandquestioned.Greek citizensare youareyou atalltimesincase stoppedby It isagood idea tohave yourpassportwith Arrests MATTERS LEGAL and Hotmail tosend read mail. like Gmail,Yahoo! aservice page thenuse or nothavedoes analternative web-based email providerblocking bylocalISPs. Ifyourservice of programmesbecause relayingusing these mail will mostprobably notbeabletosend you viaawireless orEthernetnode,butyou tourage (Macintosh) willcollectyourmailfor grammes such asOutlook(Windows)orEn- provider.your service Dedicated emailpro- is viatheweb-based emailprogrammeof By fartheeasiestwaytoaccessyour email Email judiciously. ‘i-caf’ your you wanttodoanyVoIPcalling,choose Epiros, Central Greece, thePeloponneseEpiros, Central and covering Thrace, Macedonia, and Thessaly the company’s1:250,000 maroon-cover series map of Greece. Motoristsshould check out with a1:500,000 starting suit variousneeds, There isawiderange of mapsto ical Service. ofthe assistance theHellenic ArmyGeograph- Votanikos, Athens) ( lished bytheGreek company arebut, again,these not very accurate. usually tourist foraround€1.50 maps forsale islands where there isnoEOT there office, are theyarefice, although not100%accurate. On maps given outbytheEOT willprobably suf- Unless youare goingtohike ordrive, the free MAPS you in jail. a smallamountof marijuanaislikely toland andpushing. of Possession possession even Greek courtsmake nodistinctionbetween Greek drug lawsare thestrictest inEurope. % places asgaminghasbecomebigbusiness.If card. Note: internet caféscanoften benoisy The bestoverall maps forcoverage are pub- 210 3455575;www.road.gr;Kozanis21&Amfipoleos, , whose mapsare, whose producedwith the -lo dhi-ki- the- lo dhi-ermi- lonelyplanet.com go Road Editions -ro). nea ) lished by way around the backblocks. whennegotiatingyour spot-on –important clearly marked, indicators andthedistance are Crete. Even thesmallestroadsandvillages are lonelyplanet.com charge ahefty commission, though. are inanemergency. useful Note that they ian andUSdollars andJapanese yen,and all themajor Europeancurrencies, Austral- common inmajor touristareas. Theytake towns and tourist areas. tro users canmake withdrawalsinallmajor places towithdrawmoney.Cirrusand Maes- there or Visa/Access, terCard are plentyof in allthetouristareas. Ifyou’ve gotMas- tosupportabank –andcertainly enough ATMs are townlarge tobefoundinevery ATMs costs in Greece. exchange rates and p20 €10, €20,€50,€100 and €200. five, twoandonecents,sixnotes: €5, tions of twoandoneeuros,then50,20,10, 340.75 dr to €1. the euro-currency basket, fixed atarate of year after theGreek drachma (dr)wentinto since thebeginningof 2002, exactlyone Greece hasbeen using theeurocurrency MONEY bookstores inGreece. plans of theregion’s main towns. each map,manyof which have excellent advantage isthehandyindexbookletwith the paperisof apoorer quality.Theirmain 12,Athens) .gr; Navarinou trails formanyof the Aegean islands. walkingmain advantage, plusthedetailed Athens). ( are the mind. in producedwithhikers series, mountain also publishes a1:50,000green-cover Greek to1:30,000forSyros.It Corfu andRhodes ranges from1:100,000forlarger islandslike includesallthemainislands.Thescale series % The company’sblue-cover Greek island Automated foreign exchange machines are insidethefrontcoverSee forcurrency There are eurocoins,indenomina- eight Finally theyellowandbluemapspub- All maps can be bought onlineoratmajorAll mapscanbebought Equally goodifnotbetter fortheislands 210 321 8104; www.mountains.gr; Stoa Arsakiou 6a, 210 3218104;www.mountains.gr; StoaArsakiou The durable plasticised paperisthe The durableplasticised Topo Emvelia series publishedby series DIRECTORY ••Money DIRECTORY

( are though alsodetailed, % 210 7717616;www.emvelia forinformationon Anavasi help you with yourluggage toyourhotel room you toround upthefare, whilebellhops who good. Taxihas been drivers normallyexpect appreciated andshould beleftiftheservice pected (asitisinNorthAmerica), itisalways included inthebillandwhileatip is notex- In charge isnormally restaurants aservice Tipping where. accepted intouristareas butunheardof else- Express andDiners Club,which are widely rarely do. cept credit cards,butD-andE-classhotels smarter hotels. Some C-class hotels willac- topayforaccommodationinallthe be used given inlocalcurrency only.Credit cardscan advancesare bytheissuingbank.Cash set way asathome. Dailywithdrawallimitsare ATMs of Greek affiliated banksinthesame ascashcardstodrawfromthe be used are widelyaccepted inGreece. Theycanalso (Access intheUK)andEurocard,allof which souvenirs. rants) andaccommodation,carhire and such asmeals(inbetter restau- and services topayforawiderangecan beused of goods scene inGreece justabout everywhere. They are nowanaccepted partof thecommercial rying aroundgreat wadsof cash.Credit cards allow youtopayformajor items withoutcar- The great advantage of credit cards isthatthey Cards Credit have never anychange.inevitably or smalldenominationnotes will astheseller buying smallitems itisbetter totender coin with smallchange. Theyrarely have any!If business owners have aperennial problem stash. amount of US$100, asanemergency cash,say or withdrawcash. youchange whenever needs travellers cheques days, which meansworkingoutyourlikely no more forthenextfew cashthanyouneed to approximately US$300.It’sbesttocarry thatwillnormallylimittheamount cue. Those very few travel insurers willcometoyourres- cash, it’s goneforgoodand risk. Ifyoulose Nothing beatscashforconvenience –orfor Cash The maincharge cardsare American The main credit cardsare MasterCard, Visa Note thatGreek shopkeepers andsmall asideasmall It’s alsoagoodideatoset

727 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY anything else thathasasign forbiddingpho- anything else photograph Never or installation a military Etiquette & Restrictions travel photography. prehensive guidetotechnical andcreative photographer Richard I’Ansonoffers acom- Guide toTaking Better Pictures your memorycard. you ifare runningoutof storage spaceon imagesburn yourdigital tocompactdiskfor computerSome shops,oreven shops,can arollofaround €9todevelop 36colour prints. is acompetitive business.Mostplacescharge filter. lens you’ll get better results usingapolarising of insummer, thebrilliantsunlight Because Photography off start your trip. buying atleastafew duty-free cassettes to to buythecorrect format.Itisusuallyworth inlargersettes townsandcities,butbesure of Athensand major cities. inthephotographyshopsthe gear youneed expensive insmallertowns.You’llfindall is stillwidelyavailable, itcanbe although fromcamerastores.can nowbebought Film way inGreece andarange of memorycards Digital photography hastaken over inabig Equipment & Film VIDEO & PHOTOGRAPHY a goodcurrency to use. from thecheques themselves. USdollars are replacing lostcheques –keep thisseparate whenitcomesto themisvital when youuse record of thecheque numbers andrecording ficient replacement policies.Maintaining a cheques are allwidelyaccepted andhave ef- it atATMs astheygo. their moneyinabankathomeandwithdraw larity asmore andmore travellers opttoput against theft.Theyare, losingpopu- however, rather thancashistheprotection theyoffer The mainreason tocarry travellers cheques Cheques Travellers €1and€3. tween cabin normallyexpectasmallgratuityof be- or stewards onferries whotake youtoyour 728 American Express, Visa andThomasCook American Express, Visa Lonely Planet’s As elsewhere film intheworld,developing In Greece, videocas- itispossibletoobtain IETR • Poorpy&Vdo ••Photography&Video DIRECTORY Travel Photography: A byrespected express mailonly. boxes are alsoyellow.The red boxes are for able bytheyellowsignsoutside. Regularpost Tahydromia POST tion, see p715 transformer forGreece (formore informa- and have charger, thenecessary plugsand something else. occur whenyou’re actuallyintent onfilming country. Often themostinteresting things of details the ordinaryeveryday life inthe views–remembertacular torecord someof spec- videoing theobviousthings–sunsets, cinating record of yourholiday.As wellas a Properly used, video cameracangive afas- Video fessional’. from usingatripodasitmarksyou‘pro- a stillcamera. more annoyingandoffensive forlocalsthan for videocameras,probably even goes same taken butalwaysaskpermission first. The expecting cannotbelocated. After onemonth, under your first nameaswell ifletters youare a goodideatoask the postoffice clerktocheck also tomarktheenvelope ‘ lettersname incapital andunderlineit, passport. Ask to write senders your family is free, butyouare required toshow your delivery) atanymainpostoffice. Theservice You canreceive mail Mail Receiving the EU. should ensure delivery inthree dayswithin butwitha10%surcharge.stamps, to10days.Sometouristshopsalsosell seven and totheUSA,AustraliaNewZealand, within Europetakes fourandsixdays between EU itis€0.90and€1outsidetheEU. Post for upto20g;items upto50gwithinthe ters toalldestinations outsideGreece is€0.62 rate forpostcardsandairmaillet- The postal Rates Postal photograph themainaltar. inside churches, andit’sconsidered to taboo tography. Flashphotographyisnotallowed Registered mailcosts anextra€2.50and Greeks usuallylove having theirphotos Make sure youkeep thebatteries charged, At archaeological sites youwillbestopped (postoffices)are easilyidentifi- ). poste restante poste restante lonelyplanet.com (general ’. Itis poste restante have itforwardedtoyournextdestination,c/o mail hasn’tarrived, to askatthepostoffice you are about toleave atownandexpected uncollected mailisreturned tothesender. If lonelyplanet.com that youare unlikely soloforlong. tostay totravellingdisadvantages solo–other than with restaurant owners and there are no real ellers. Diningsoloin restaurants is notanissue are upwithothersolotrav- goodplacestomeet and otherbackpacker-friendly accommodation become aninternational point. Hostels meeting especially insummerwhentheGreek islands Greece isagreat destinationfor solo travellers, TRAVELLERS SOLO accepting thedeal. price youare beingoffered isworthitbefore know yourgoodsanddecideforyourself ifthe way of thedrachma: outthewindow.Instead, art andsportof bargaining hasgonethe perse beofferedYou might a‘specialdeal’butthe athingofgaining issadly thepastinGreece. abitextraoff thedealthrough Getting bar- Bargaining tery, jewellery andmetal-worked small boutiquesandgalleries,includingpot- workstobepicked quality artisanal upfrom or backpackthere are somereally excellent andifyouhavesales, roominyoursuitcase excellent buys,especiallyinthepost-seasonal find somegoodbargains. andclothesare Shoes bewildering arrayof items andyoucan onsale Athens’FleaMarketThat said ( p144 moral of thestoryisdon’tshopin touristareas. lot of itisoverpriced andof inferior quality;the goods andtrinkets ondisplay.Thetrouble isa can looklike onebigshop withallkindsof alike isbigbusiness.Attimesatouristtown Shopping inGreece forGreeks andvisitors SHOPPING post office. elsewhere totheparcelcounter of aregular ( PostOffice parcel totheSyntagma p109 spected atapostoffice. InAthens,take your in- Do notwrapaparceluntilithasbeen Mail Sending a postoffice. must becollected fromtheparcelcounter of in Athens,hold ( p109 Parcels are notdelivered inGreece; they ) and Syntagma Post Office ( PostOffice )andSyntagma p109 . Both Athens Central postoffice . BothAthensCentral DIRECTORY ••Shopping DIRECTORY poste restante mail. objets ) has a )hasa ),also . ),and costs €0.30 forthree minutes. corner shops andtouristshops. Alocalcall €5 and€9)are widelyavailable at known as OTE All publicphones use phonecards, Phonecards isallowed. Bluetooth headset ing inGreece isprohibited, of buttheuse a tri-band system. isequippedwithadualor less theirhandset theirmobilewon’t beable phones, un- touse ‘F2G’ andCosmOTE is‘Cosmokarta’. system theWindsystem is called ‘àlaCarte’, your ownGreek mobilenumber. ThePanafon you canbuyarechargeable SIMcard andhave bywhich panies offer services pay-as-you-talk find mobile coverage ispatchy. Allthree com- try re-tuning yourphonetoCosmOTE ifyou to have thebestcoverage inremote areas, so three, CosmOTEconnectivity. Ofthese tends and Windare thebestknown.Alloffer 2G in Greece –amongwhich Panafon, CosmOTE roaming activated. vider before youdepartinordertohave global pro- must informyourmobile phoneservice yourphoneinGreece.will beable touse You bal roamingarrangement withGreece, you phone fromacountrywithanoverseas glo- telephony isbigbusiness here. thenumberofexceeds landline phones.Mobile The numberof mobile phonesinGreece now Phones Mobile Greek phonenumbers are 10-digit). always bedialledwhenmakingacall(ieall phonecardsnotcoins. public phonesuse up theoperatinginstructionsinEnglish. All left of thepush-button diallingpanelbrings andinternationaltance calls.The‘i’atthetop forlocal,longdis- to operate andcanbeused isolated spots.Thephonesarelievably easy about everywhere, includinginsomeunbe- Theremaintained. are publictelephones just Ellados). nounced o- the publiccorporationknownas OTE (pro- The Greek by ismaintained telephone service TELEPHONE Note: the use ofNote: theuse amobile phonewhiledriv- mobile phoneusersUSA andCanadian If youhave acompatibleGSM mobile Note thatinGreece thearea codemust There are several mobile service providersThere are mobile service several The system ismodernandreasonably well telekarta, teh; Organismos Tilepikoinonion not coins. These cards (€3, notcoins.These periptera, 729

DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY mation including a very useful timetable ofmation includingavery timetable useful most places of interest are clearly marked. is urgently of inneed an update, although schedules fromAthens.Itsfree map of Athens about publictransport pricesand and details ferrythe week’s departures fromPiraeus, The EOT ( p110 Offices Tourist Local Greece. within EOT .gr), knownbytheinitialsGNTOabroad and National TouristOrganization (www.gnto Tourist informationishandledbythe Greek INFORMATION TOURIST next to toilet. every should beplacedinthesmallbinprovided toblockthesystem.anteed Toiletpaperetc napkinsisguar- andsanitary away tampons aproblem; flushing tocause seems stamp the reason, anythinglarger thanapostage parently thepipesare toonarrow.Whatever system is that itcan’thandletoiletpaper;ap- expected tobuysomethingfor the privilege. option ifyouget short,butyou’llbe caught are Cafés thebest and bustrainstations. eneia Asian-style squattoiletsinolderhouses, for tourists.You’lloccasionallycomeacross lets, especiallyhotels andrestaurants thatcater Most placesinGreece have Western-style toi- TOILETS the WorldTime Zone map (pp786–7). October. in hour. saving endsonthelastSunday Daylight in March, whenclocksare putforwardone saving time–which beginsonthelastSunday UTC andthree hours aheadondaylight- the countryandistwohours aheadof GMT/ Greece onetimezonethroughout maintains TIME consider. Definitely compared phonecardrates. tothestandard timeisenormousand English. Thetalk The cardscomewithinstructionsinGreek version of thiscardisknownas‘Hronokarta’. then punching inyourcardnumber. TheOTE which involve diallinganaccesscodeand a growingrange of discount-cardschemes, 730 It’s also possible to use these phonesusing these It’s alsopossibletouse One peculiarityof theGreek plumbing Public toiletsare ararity,exceptatairports For arundownof current worldtimes,see IETR • Tm ••Time DIRECTORY and public toilets. ) in Athens dispenses infor- )inAthensdispenses kaf- Olympic Tower,6455thAve, NewYork, NY 10022) Los Angeles,California92668); Quebec H3B 3C6) ( M5R1G4); .ca; 91ScollardSt,Toronto,Ontario Los Angeles Ave, Michigan Chicago,Illinois60601); Suite 600,168North 18, 20254Hamburg); ( 22,60311Frankfurt); .de; NeueMainzerstrasse 10789 Berlin30); A-10105) Vienna 126 Stockholm) 10246 BirgerJarlsgatan30,Box5298S, [email protected]; Louise Louizalaan, B1050 Brussels) straat 61,Amsterdam GC 1017) Shalom AleichemSt,Tel Aviv 61262) Israel Germany de l’Opéra, Paris 75001) France Denmark Canada Belgium Austria Australia abroad: GNTO offices Abroad Offices Tourist municipality tourist offices. being supplemented replaced oreven bylocal theyareist locations,though increasingly station. metro isaboutThe office 500mfromAmbelokipi staff who speaks English. Hotels, who speaks restaurants, staff hasatleast one memberofist police office the regular Greek policeandEOT. tour- Each The tourist police workincooperationwith Police Tourist USA UK Switzerland Sweden Netherlands Japan Italy Bldg West, 5F 2-11-3 Akasaka, Minato-Ku, Minato-Ku, Bldg West,5F2-11-3Akasaka, Tokyo 107) 860 470;Piazza Diaz1, 20123 Milano) .com; ViaLBissolati78-80,00187Roma); Pitt St,Sydney NSW 2000) listrasse 5,2W 80333 Munich) Copenhagen) Loewenstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich) % % ( EOT officescanbefoundinmajor tour-

% Chicago 514-871 1535;1170PlaceDuFrere Andre, Montreal, 40-454 498; [email protected]; Neurer Wall 40-454 498;[email protected];

Rome ( ( ( % % (

020-7734 5997;4ConduitSt,LondonW1RODJ) % ( Toronto ( % (

% ( (

Berlin % ( % % ( % 3-517 0501; [email protected]; 5 3-517 0501;[email protected]; % 03-350 55 917; [email protected]; Fukuda03-350 55917;[email protected]; % 01-42 606575;[email protected];3Ave ( 1-512 5317; [email protected]; Opernring 8, Opernring 1-512 5317;[email protected]; ( 8-679 6480;grekiska.statens % 2-647 5770;[email protected];172Ave % 213-626 6696;Suite2198,611West6thSt, 02-9241 1663/5;[email protected]; 51-57

33-325 332;Vester Farimagsgade 1, 1606

06-474 4249;www.ente-turismoellenico ( ( Frankfurt 312-782 1084; www.greektourism.com; 312-782 1084;www.greektourism.com; % % 01-221 0105;[email protected]; 20-625 4212;[email protected];Kerk- Munich 416-968 2220;gnto.tor@sympatico 30-217 6262;Wittenbergplatz3a, ( % ( % New York 69-236 561;info@gzf-eot 89-222 035/036;Pacel- lonelyplanet.com

( % Milan 212-421 5777; Montreal ( Hamburg % 02-

any of report these, ittothetouristpoliceand you thinkthathave rippedoff by been under thejurisdictionof thetouristpolice. If waiters, drivers taxi andbusdrivers allcome travel agencies, touristshops, touristguides, lonelyplanet.com three months, applyat aconsulate abroad or inGreeceIf youwish tostay for longer than Extensions Visa US$20 forathree-month visa. notincludedcanexpecttopay about Those Greek– contact embassiesforthe fulllist. South Americancountries.Thelist changes palities of MonacoandSanMarino andmost countries includedare theEuropeanprinci- Norway, SwitzerlandandtheUSA. Other tries, Iceland,Israel,Japan, New Zealand, allEUcoun- includesAustralia,Canada, visa in Greece foruptothree months withouta The listof nationals canstay countrieswhose VISAS travellersable todisabled in Europe. which gives of agoodoverview facilitiesavail- & Travel Abroad:AGuideforDisabled People, EC1V 8AF) 7250 3222;www.radar.org.uk; 12CityForum,250Rd,London sociation forDisability&Rehabilitation can before you go. TheBritish-based planning, soget asmuch informationasyou Greece careful forholidays.Butthetripneeds knowledge peopledocometo thatdisabled their yet. needs rent infrastructure tackled hasnotseriously will notfindmuch helpinGreece asthecur- marble. Visuallyorhearingimpaired people ple, withitsabundance of stones,rocksand presents achallenge forable-bodied even peo- terrainuneven of much of thecountry,which accessible.wheelchair Thisispartlyduetothe andancientsites inGreeceseums are not Greece, thehardfactisthatmosthotels, mu- If mobility is aproblem andyouwish tovisit TRAVELLERS WITHDISABILITIES to find accommodation. information ontransport.Theycanoften help dispensing mapsandbrochures, andgiving as theEOT andmunicipaltouristoffices, functions tourist policealsofulfilthesame ers youandtheregular between police. The ist policefirst, andtheywillactasinterpret- theft orlossof passport,thengotothetour- they willinvestigate. toreport Ifyouneed a If youare determined, thentake heartinthe publishes a useful guidecalled publishesauseful DIRECTORY ••TravellerswithDisabilities DIRECTORY (Radar; (Radar;

Holidays Holidays Royal As- % 020 020 are thetimestogo looking.Hostels andtrav- spend asummer intheislands. AprilandMay year. butyouget Thepayisnotfantastic, to ofthousands summerjobs upforgrabs every vive without foreign workers andthere are The bars of theGreek islandscouldnotsur- Bar &HostelWork tohavesupposed aworkpermit. three months. Nationals of othercountriesare file numberiftheyintend longer tostay than aresidencythey need permitandaGreek tax a EU nationalsdon’tneed work permit,but WORK helpful. women withrespect, andare genuinely than athreat. be very persistent, buttheyare ahasslerather sidling uptowomeninthestreet. Theycan guys whoaren’t intheleastbashfulabout young (forthemostpart),smooth-talking find themeverywhere there are lotsof tourists; pastime: ‘fishing’ for foreign women.You’ll trident’ andrefers tothe nicknamed travelling aloneare theguysGreeks have are rare. violentoffencesand rapesdooccur,although be lulledintocomplacency;bagsnatching not meanthatyoushould countries. Thisdoes travel isprobably safer thaninmostEuropean crime rate remains relatively lowandsolo Many women travel aloneinGreece. The TRAVELLERS WOMEN entering Greece. ing BulgariaorTurkey brieflyandthenre- months. inthecountryforaperiodofstay uptosix be given youto apermitthatwillauthorise apply tothelocalpoliceauthority.Youwill may have toaskforthem.Elsewhere inGreece slips are notalwaysautomaticallygiven –you These (or theequivalentfromapostoffice). cially, sokeep allyourbankexchange slips proof thatyoucansupport yourself finan- photographs along.Youmaybeasked for TakeStation. yourpassportandfour passport h (Map pp106-7 at least20daysinadvancetothe The biggest nuisance toforeignThe biggest nuisance women Most travellers get aroundthisbyvisit- The majority of Greek mentreat foreign 8am-1pm Mon-Fri) ; % kamaki 210 7705711;Leoforos Alexandras173; in the Athens Central Police intheAthensCentral . Thewordmeans‘fishing kamaki ’ Aliens Bureau Aliens Bureau s favourite

731 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY in Athenssometimeshasadvertisements look- DIRECTORY most popular spot. area outsidethechurch onKydathineonisthe torini. PlakaistheplacetogoinAthens; islands, particularlyMykonos,Paros andSan- The richest pickingsare tobefoundonthe Performers Street ing forprivate English lessons. a jobis late summer. out one. Thebesttimetolookaroundforsuch schools, butmanywillemployteachers with- alicencetoteachspeaking, youneed inthese language schools everywhere.see Strictly ing English onceyouare inGreece. Youwill the tries, contact Greek embassy. newspaper foropportunities–inothercoun- ment orTuesday’seditionof the the look through IntheUK, is anadvantage butnotessential. certificate orauniversityLanguage) degree lish. A TEFL (Teaching English asaForeign most widelyavailable optionistoteach Eng- If you’re lookingforapermanentjob, the Tutoring English employ foreign workers. ellers hotels are otherplacesthatregularly 732 The noticeboardattheCompendium( p99 Another possibilityistofindajob teach- IETR • Wr ••Work DIRECTORY Times educationalsupple- Guardian )

Society ofGreece particularly duringthewinter months. The fr travellers. for kan nations,andisnolonger aviableoption grant workers fromAlbaniaandotherBal- country. the throughout for employement.TheOAED hasoffices intheirsearch National EmploymentService, Ergatikou Dynamikou),which istheGreek of theOAED (Organismos Apasholiseos you wish.EUnationalscanalsomake use you canplaceanadvertisement yourself if sifieds of English-language newspapers, or There are often jobsadvertised intheclas- Work Other Eco see Saronics, p355 for volunteer workers. Formore information, new centre hasalsoaccommodationavailable h Zoon; alpsis Agrion Ionian Islandsand the Peloponnese. the monitoringprogrammestheyrunon .archelon.gr; Solomou57,Athens) 2450; Solomou53,Athens) the MonkSeal The Work Volunteer The Seasonal harvest workishandledbymi- harvest Seasonal 11am-1pm) Hellenic Society for the Study & Protection of Hellenic SocietyfortheStudy&Protection Hellenic WildlifeHospital inAegina welcomesvolunteers, (Map (Map pp104-5

% (Map (Map pp104-5 22970 28367;www.ekpaz.grinGreek; andthe ; . % ; % use volunteers for use 210 5222888;fax Sea Turtle Protection Protection Turtle Sea /fax 2105231342;www (Elliniko Kentro Perith- (Elliniko Kentro lonelyplanet.com

TRANSPORT 733 801 112 %

(A3; 22410 83222) % 801 114 4444; www.olympicair flies direct from Athens flies direct Aegean Airlines stanbul, London, Milan, stanbul, London, Milan, % İ (OA; (OA;

(Macedonia Airport; International code is the country’s national airline, and 23104 73700) (Diagoras Airport; code RHO; (Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport; code HER; % 28102 28401) THINGS CHANGE… is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket you understand how a fare sure of the you may buy) works and be aware for international security requirements in details given The Shop carefully. travel. as point- should be regarded this chapter own for your not a substitute ers and are research. up-to-date careful, Athens handles the vast majority of flights, of majority Athens handles the vast saloniki has direct flights to Amsterdam, flights to Amsterdam, saloniki has direct Belgrade, Berlin, Brussels, Cyprus, Düssel- dorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Tirana, Paris, Moscow, Munich, and Zürich. Vienna AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROM GREECE Olympic Airlines the country with Olympic or the flag carrier of only in- Olympic is not Greece’s departure. of airline. ternational 0000; www.aegeanair.com) and Cologne, Düsseldorf, Munich Frankfurt, flights to Cyprus Stuttgart. Iraklio has direct Airlines flies with Olympic, while Aegean Iraklio Rhodes Thessaloniki SKG; lo- airports are other international Greece’s at Mykonos, Santorini (Thira), Hania cated Kos, Karpathos, Iraklio (Crete), (Crete), Ak- (for Kavala), Samos, Skiathos, Hrysoupoli Zakynthos. and tion (for Lefkada), Kefallonia for charter usedThese exclusively airports are flights, the UK, Germany mostly from and flights also fly to all of Charter Scandinavia. airports. international other Greece’s including all intercontinental traffic. Thes- % most flights to Athens and Thessaloniki are most flights to Athens and Thessaloniki are lines.com) to Rome and Venice, and via Thessaloniki to to Rome and Venice, el_ser . www.lonelyplanet.c om/trav 210 353 0000; www.aia.gr) ( Eleftherios International Airport; Venizelos code ( % Getting There & Away There Getting Country The Entering 733 Air 736 Land 737 Sea Around Getting 739 Air 733 739 Bicycle 740 Boat 733 743 Bus & Motorcycle Car Hitching747 Local Transport 747 Tours 739 747 Train 744 747 GETTING THERE & AWAY visa to enter the EU so this must be checked visa the EU so this must be checked to enter you attempt with consular authorities before information on For more Greece. to enter p731 visas, see AIR is air, which by arrive to Greece Most visitors here. to get way and quickest the cheapest Airports & Airlines but only airports, has 16 international Greece those in Athens, Thessaloniki, Rhodes and flights: scheduled take Iraklio (Crete) Athens ATH; CONTENTS online at vices. ENTERING THE COUNTRY are passports with EU to Greece Visitors glance. than a cursory afforded more rarely from another EU nation passports If entering but customs and police may not checked, are carrying. EU in what you are be interested on a national Greece citizens may also enter a may require identity card. Some visitors T r a n s p o r t Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked can be booked and rail tickets Flights, tours TRANSPORT ways.com) SAS Qatar Airways Lufthansa KLM Japan Airlines Iberia Gulf Air Airlines Emirates El Al EgyptAir easyJet Delta Airlines Cyprus Airways Airways British Airlines American Alitalia Air France Air Canada Air Berlin Aeroflot book. Aegean offices are listed the throughout record of bothairlinesisexemplary. direct toParis, Thesafety andItaly. Germany 734 .com) .com.cy) .com) Other airlineswithoffices inAthens: forlocalOlympicand details The contact staff andauthortravel. thecarbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.dustry, support LonelyPlanetoffsets allofits and Uganda. travel schemesthatreduce inIndia,Honduras, Kazakhstan globalwarming–includingprojects level ofgreenhouse gasestheyare responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org andotherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallow travellers tooffset the Carbon offset schemes consumption over awholeyear. the USwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage household’sgasandelectricity mosphere. The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking and distances theyallowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheat- climate change)butplanesare farandawaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheer Pretty muchevery formofmotorisedtravel generates CO2(themaincauseofhuman-induced Flying &Climate Change efit, butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility onglobalwarming. tolimitourpersonalimpact fastest-growing contributortotheproblem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asaglobalben- Climate changeisaseriousthreat tothe ecosystems thathumansrely upon,andairtravel isthe CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL (SK; (KL; (LY; ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING For more informationcheckoutourwebsite: www.lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel in- Lonely Planet,togetherwithRoughGuidesandotherconcernedpartners (IB; (AZ; (GF; (U2; % (codeSU; % % (MS; (AB; % (AF; (LH; (AC; 210 3613910; www.sas.se) % % 210 3531003;www.elal.co.il) % 210 3531295;www.klm.com) % (DL; 210 3234523;www.iberia.com) (QR; % (JL; (JL; % % (CY; (BA; % 210 3534284;www.alitalia.it) 210 3220851;www.gulfairco.com) 210 9670000;www.easyjet.com) (EK; 210 3531272;www.egyptair.com.eg) % (AA; 210 3535264;www.airberlin.com) % % 210 3530380;www.airfrance.com) % 210 6175200;www.lufthansa.com) 210 6175321;www.aircanada.ca) % % 210 3220986;www.aeroflot.org) % 210 3311660;www.delta.com) 210 3248211;www.jal.co.jp) 210 9508700;www.qatarairways % 210 3722722;www.cyprusair 210 8906666;www.britishair 210 9333400;www.emirates 210 3311045;www.aa.com) co.th) .com) .com) lines.com) 31259; www.singaporeair.com) Turkish Airlines Turkish Airways Thai Airlines Singapore Shoestring Travel Shoestring www.fourseastravel.com) ofRd hasagoodselection travel agencies. natown Pointshopping centre onNewBridge from, soitispossibletocompare prices.Chi- kok, hashundreds of travel agencies tochoose for mostdestinations.Singapore, like Bang- statravel.com.sg) travellers. some suspectones;asktheadviceof other of excellenttravel agencies, butthere are also ellers’ headquarters. hasanumber Bangkok count tickets. Kong thebestplacestoshoparoundfordis- Singaporedeals, withBangkok, andHong Most Asian countriesoffer fairly competitive Asia Express Virgin In Singapore, isthebudget SanRdinBangkok trav-Khao In HongKong, isagoodplacetostart. STA Travel (TG; (TG; (TV; (TV; offers competitive discountfares (TK; (TK; %

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% 2200 7760; Australia. in Sydneyanddozensof throughout offices online bookingsgotowww.expedia.ca or which inallmajor hasoffices cities. For www.statravel.de) .com) many university campuses. Call fortheloca- many university Call campuses. inallmajorbut alsohasoffices citiesandon .statravel.com.au) Centre. Flight Two well-knownagencies are STA Travel and Australia lonelyplanet.com ( ( the country.For online fares, try www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) Voyageurs duMonde the country.Otherrecommendations include 29 1222;www.otu.fr) of all ages. Theyinclude that cansupplydiscounttickets totravellers are alsomajor centres for cheap airfares. andParisbut Amsterdam, Frankfurt,Berlin carrier of each country. rope byeither Olympic Airlinesortheflag Athens islinked major toevery cityinEu- Europe Continental and Lufthansa British Airways. KLM, Frankfurt andLondononAirCanada, viaToronto,Amsterdam,necting flights fromVancouver,flights butthere are con- to AthensviaMontreal. There are nodirect www.travelocity.ca. CUTS Travel Canada’s national studenttravel agency is Canada Lufthansa. and major European airlines, includingKLM looking aroundforspecialdealsfromthe a bitof flyingaroundEurope,it’sworth Airways.Ifyou’reQatar planningondoing Persian Gulfairlines–Emirates, Gulfand connections toAthensasdothree of the and Singapore Airlinesbothhave convenient Airways connectiontoAthens.Thai but youcouldflyviaLondonwithaBritish 16 00;www.flightcentre.com.au) tion of yournearest branch. % % In Germany, In Germany, France hasanetworkof travel agencies ofLondon isthediscountcapital Europe, fromToronto Olympic Airlineshasflights nolongerQantas fliesdirect toAthens, 0180 5006025; www.expedia.de) 089 7473330; www.justtravel.de) and Nouvelles Frontières Nouvelles

( % has its main office inMelbourne, hasitsmainoffice has several offices around offices hasseveral STA Travel GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING 800 6672887;www.travelcuts.com) , which hasbranches across STA Travel

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TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT petitive andthere are newdealsalmostevery to Athens.Theroute toEuropeisvery com- erates a daily bus between Athens andTiranaerates adailybusbetween The Organisation (OSE) op- Greek Railways BUS Albania (ancient Adrianoupolis) in Turkey. Soufli andDidymotihoinGreece, and Edirne viathefascinatingtownsofKastanies goes heading for Kipi isprobably more convenient ifyou’re ( p319 east of Alexandroupoli,andatKastanies The crossingpointsare atKipi( p319 TURKEY north of Kilkis. 16km northof Florina;andDoïrani,31km 68km northof Niki( Thessaloniki; p305 Greece andFYROM. are These atEvzoni, There are three border crossings between (FYROM) MACEDONIA FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLICOF north of Drama. 50km 448m tunnelbordercrossingatExohi, Ormenio innortheastern Thrace;andanew of oneat and41kmfromSerres; Thessaloniki one located atPromahonas,109kmnortheast There are three Bulgarianbordercrossings: BULGARIA road. Florina– Kastoria 14kmwestof onthe and Krystallopigi, Kotas Mertziani,Igoumenitsa; 17kmwestof Konitsa; other crossingsare atSagiada,28kmnorthof 60km northwestof Ioannina(see p330 and Albania. ThemainoneisatKakavia, There are four Greececrossing pointsbetween ALBANIA Crossings Border LAND to Athens. airlines totheirhomecountry,andthenon or flyingwithoneof theEuropeannational linking withOlympicAirlinesinNewYork toAthensfrommanyUScities,either flights the westcoast.There are, connecting however, other connectingflights. have direct butthere flights are numerous Airlinesboth day. OlympicAirlinesandDelta 736 New Yorkhasthewidestrange of options There are nodirect toAthensfrom flights ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING ),139kmnortheastof Alexandroupoli. İ stanbul, buttheroute stanbul, through ),43km ).The ), a 8.30am. at Alexandroupoli onWednesdayandSunday hours to Skopje(€12,five hours), crossingthebor- There are two trains dailyfromThessaloniki TRAIN (FYROM) Macedonia Former YugoslavRepublicof Budapest hours). FromSofia, there are connectionsto (€32, 18hours) (€18,nine viaThessaloniki There isa daily train toSofia fromAthens TRAIN toPlovdiv a private busservice (€19,7½hours, fourdaily).Therebuses is Monday. Italsooperates Thessaloniki–Sofia Sofia (€45.50,15hours) at7amdailyexcept The OSEoperates abusfromAthensto BUS Bulgaria Albania. to ter foralternative publictransportoptions ( p330 Tirana the following day. arrivingin trainstation, 1 neartheLarisis bus departsAthensdailyfromSidiridromou (€35.20) viaIoanninaandGjirokastra. The Athens in the evening and travellingAthens in theevening viaThes- leaving theformerPeloponnese in train station İ The OSEoperates abusfrom Athensto BUS Turkey berth ina three-bed cabin. day.Thecost is €147.80fora on thesame parts Moscowforthereturn tripat11.32pm in Moscowat5.26amonWednesday. Itde- at7.42amonSunday andarrivesThessaloniki toMoscow.Itdeparts fromThessaloniki week There isone summer-only a train service TRAIN Russia the FYROM sideof the border. a daytoSkopjefromBitola(€6,4½hours) on FYROM, there although are oneortwotrains (€30, of Belgrade 13 hours). capital continue fromSkopjetotheSerbian They IdomeniandGevgelija. der between stanbul (22 hours)stanbul dailyexceptWednesday, There are Florinaand notrainsbetween theFlorina( See p305 ) sections of )sections theNorthernGreece chap- ) andSofia ( €68 ) and Bucharest ( €35.50, seven hours €35.50, seven )andIoannina lonelyplanet.com ( €39 ( €29.50, six ) . ) from and children under 12 travel for half-price. See and children See under 12travel forhalf-price. droupoli. Studentsqualifyfora20%discount and€15fromAlexan- €44 fromThessaloniki hours). One-wayfares are €67.50fromAthens, hours) andAlexandroupoli(13 (seven saloniki lonelyplanet.com Athens is afurther3½ hours’ driving. completed inaround 26 hours. FromPatra to ferry from Venicehigh-speed toPatra canbe 2½ daysfromVenice toAthens,whereas a Republic of Macedonia takes, onaverage, andtheFormerYugoslavCroatia, Serbia The second. coming aclose route through most convenient portisVenice, withAncona portandtake aferryItalian toGreece. The Most intending drivers daysdrive these toan MOTORCYCLE & CAR with cheap airfares. rope. Buscompaniescannolonger compete UK, norfromanywhere innorthernEu- else to There are nobusservices Greece fromthe BUS the through peninsula. Balkan ance of fuelandhotel costsonthetripdown Greece’s twomainentryports,andtheavoid- porttooneof fromanItalian a ‘minicruise’ bytheconveniencefeasible, isoutweighed of Yugoslav Republicof Macedonia, whilequite andtheFormer route Croatia,Serbia through most geographically convenient ferry. The portandpickingupthe heading toanItalian and Greece isnowadaysusuallyconfinedto travel WesternOverland Europe between Europe Western on theGreece– Turkey border. 7am; passengers for toOrestiada leaving at Thessaloniki service istheindirect Intercity IC90 other service hours) andarrivingin ice, leaving at8pm(€48.25,11½ Thessaloniki best optionistheFilia–TostlukExpress serv- runningtotheTurkishcity.The daily services andconnectwithoneofThessaloniki two and There are nodirect Athens trains between TRAIN Sunday. except Topkap Anadolu Terminal (AnatoliaTerminal) atthe information onwhere to buy tickets. Thereeach for city’s Getting &Awaysections Buses from Buses İ stanbul. 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otogar İ GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Sea GETTING (bus station) at10amdaily (busstation) stanbul toAthensleavestanbul the İ stanbul changestanbul atPythio İ stanbul at7.30am.The stanbul ( p680 good idea to make a reservation beforehand.good idea tomake areservation mer. If youwanttotake avehicle acrossit’sa erates theroute, butcarriesonlyvehicles In the UK, reservations canbemade onalmost In theUK, reservations the Patra ( p166 see For more services, informationabout these ports of BrindisiandVenice. Ancona,Bari, There are ferries toGreece fromthe Italian Italy freight. and Salamis Lines and Israel have suspended indefinitely. been Passenger fromGreece toCyprus services Israel & Cyprus Albanian portof Saranda(€15, 25 minutes). .ionian-cruises.com) Corfu-based Albania SEA details. for Inter-Rail website (www.interrailnet.com) in Europeforsixmonths the ormore. See system, available whohave tothose resided inPatrathe stations and Thessaloniki. OSE officeatKarolou 1-3inAthens,andat Greece, youcanbuyyourEurailpassfromthe of.com) forfulldetails passes and prices. Piccadilly). the for lessthansixmonths. InLondon,headfor your passportproves thatyou’ve here been inEuropeaslong bebought can, however, beforepurchased arrivinginEurope. They European countriesandare tobe supposed byresidents canonlybebought passes of non- and finallyatrainfromPatra to Athens. Brindisi, thenaferry fromBrindisitoPatra – Paris followedbyParis ontheEurostar, to The tripinvolves travelling fromLondonto sible tobuyasingleticket forthisjourney. considered soremote thatit’snolonger pos- travel fromLondontoAthensby train are thechancesIndeed, of anyonewantingto fare, travelling toGreece bytrainisexpensive. under 26andare eligibleforadiscounted Unless youhave aEurailpassorare aged TRAIN The ferries canget very crowded insum- Greece isalsopartof theInter-Rail Pass If youare yourEuropeantravels starting in Greece ispartof theEurailnetwork. Eurail Rail Europe Travel Centre Travel Europe Rail )andKefallonia ( p701 ChecktheEurailwebsite (www.eurail

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737 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT tima) va Igoumenitsa. via Igoumenitsa (11½hours)Igoumenitsa for €53. ular crossing, butitnowoperates only between The tripfrom Brindisiwasonce themostpop- BRINDISI andalsoaccepts itsa Eurail passes. toPatradaily sailings viaCorfuandIgoumen- Ferries Superfast BARI 2/0; perperson€74) passes. Via XXIX 2/0) Settembre tickets through charge €60and€70, andalsosell between to Patra, or21hours viaIgoumenitsa. Both have 19hours twoboatsdaily,taking direct bookings. make andpricelists can pickuptimetables cona have booths atthe daily insummer. Allferry operators inAn- day year-round, andcanbeuptothree boats in recent years. There isatleastoneboata This route hasbecomeincreasingly popular ANCONA are about 30%less inthe low season. nies offer discountsforreturn travel. Prices to 15%ontopof thelisted fares. Allcompa- you’llbeupforanother10% aircraft-type seat, means exactlythat.Ifyouwantareclining, deckclass services, way deckclass.Onthese andAugust),pricesare forone- son (July are sea- forhigh The followingferry services Ferries Ventouris Ferries Superfast Lines Minoan Italian Ferries Lines Hellenic Mediterranean Fragline Blue StarFerries ANEK Lines Lines Agoudimos the ferry companieshave theirownwebsites: trywww.greekferries.gr.an overview Mostof online. For ferry routes, schedules andservices ( all of ferries these through 738 (ferry where terminal) PiazzaCandy, off you % You’ll findallthelatest informationabout Blue Star FerriesBlue Star andSuperfastFerries Ventouris Ferries Ventouris 020-7431 4560;[email protected]). hasdailyboatstoCorfu(10hours) and ETN HR WY • e THERE&AWAY ••Sea GETTING (www.fragline.gr) ANEK Lines (www.anek.gr) (www.minoan.gr) (www.italianferries.it) does thetripdailyin21hours does ( (www.bluestarferries.com)

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has boatstoPatra (€74,29hours) fourtimes to Patra, ontheway.It callingatIgoumenitsa for departures toTurkey is€9. next daybefore youboardtheboat.Porttax the trip,butdon’tworry,you’llget itbackthe asked before toturninyourpassportthenight a dayinadvance. be Youwillalmostcertainly Tickets forallferries toTurkey mustbebought Turkey’s Aegean coastandtheGreek islands. There are five regular between ferry services Turkey for€64. theroute fourtimesweekly sails Star Ferries callingatCorfuandIgoumenitsa. weekly, Lines Minoan VENICE from Julytomid-September. hours) andPaxi (€60to€150,5¾hours) daily toCorfu(€40€85,4½ amaran services season). high per Lecce 29) €50, andEurailpasses are accepted. cost services Paxi Allthese andZakynthos. thatcallatCorfu,Kefallonia, also hasservices Lines April andearlyOctober. week inwinter.week Tickets cost €31oneway,plus a back tomaybe onlythree orfourservices Marmaris dropping fromJunetoSeptember, There from are toRhodes dailycatamarans RHODES cost €35oneway,includingporttaxes. TicketsGreece onthisroute season. inhigh There are fromTurkey twoboatsweekly to LESVOS isextra.one-hour journeycosts€34.Porttax Bodrum (ancientHalicarnassus) inTurkey. The There are dailyferries insummertoKosfrom KOS return. isextra. Port tax inwinter.week Tickets cost€22/25oneway/ droppingbacktotwoboatsa to September, There are dailyÇe CHIOS following services. island entriesformore informationabout the SNAV See the relevant sections underindividual the relevant sections See Lines Agoudimos

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passengers pay€49including taxes. Return the Turkishmainlandis€95oneway,while on Friday.Thecostof ferrying acarto/from andcarferry passenger is aweekly service €19 Turkishdeparture Inadditionthere tax. lonelyplanet.com as information ontimetables. onitswebsite, aswell You’ll find fulldetails away. for tripsthatinclude aSaturdaynight Monday andThursday, andbigger discounts discounts forreturn tickets for travel between There andThessaloniki. are Rhodes Lesvos, popular destinationssuch asCorfu,Iraklio, Athensand someoftions between themore and charges. Olympicalsooffers cheaper op- fare economy,andincludedomestictaxes as wellinothermajor towns. whereverOlympic hasoffices there are flights, gether OlympicAviation. withitsoffshoot, Airlines dled bythecountry’snationalcarrier, The vast majority of domestic areflights han- Greece in Airlines AIR lots of links,includingairlinetimetables. website site www.ellada.com with isauseful lots of travel information on theinternet. The You’llfind season. corded inthe2007high has anextensive domesticairnetwork. the Aegean. Ifyou’re inahurry,Greece also tude of ferries thatcrisscross theAdriaticand in Greece meansisland-hoppingonthemulti- available. Tomostvisitors, travelling though, villages. Trainsare agoodalternative, where with anetworkthatreaches outtothesmallest to acomprehensive publictransportsystem. Greece isaneasyplacetotravel aroundthanks AROUND GETTING excursion boatstoTurkey. chapterDodecanese forinformationabout lorizo ( p544 €47 return, is€10. €37one-way.Porttax inwinter.one ortwoboatsweekly Tickets cost Ephesus) fromSamosinsummer,droppingto There are twoboats dailytoKu SAMOS rates usuallyworkoutcheaper. The informationinthischapter wasre- theKastel- see services, In additiontothese The priceslisted inthisbookare forfull- are ofBuses the mainstay landtransport,

( % 801 1144444;www.olympicairlines.com) )andSymi( p547 GETTING AROUND••Air GETTING ) sections of )sections the ş adas Olympic ı (for , to- (€3925, 12 days). days) orCycleCyclades Spas (€2016, eight cling tours of Greece such asSacred Sites & Falirou 15,Athens) ( orThrace. Thessaly Greece, asisanywhere flatlike theplainsof is aboutthemostbicycle-friendly placein to cyclistsasanywhere Theislandof else. Kos Drivers of vehicles are generally ascourteous (and helmetsapparently are notcompulsory). pusher –butbike lanesare rare tononexistent in Athens,ifyouare anexperiencedpedal no inherent danger incyclinghere –even stronglegmuscles.Therebut you’llneed is Tourists are beginningto cycle inGreece, isn’t surprisingconsideringthehillyterrain. onyetinGreece,Cycling hasnotcaught which BICYCLE Iraklio toMytilini,Kos,SamosandIkaria. from Santorini anduptothree aweek flights and fromIrakliotoRhodes has dailyflights Kalymnos. viaMykonosand and KosintheDodecanese inAttica Lavrio between also runsaservice Corfu andPaxi, IthakiandPatra. Lefkada, It between thatrunsflights service is aseaplane at www.aia.gr. site forAthens’ EleftheriosVenizelos Airport discount fortheover 60s. count fortravellers under26,andasimilar has specialdeals.Itoffers a20%youthdis- of asthose Olympic,butAegeansame often Rhodes. andSantorini;fromIraklioto Rhodes Mykonos, toIraklio,Lesvos, Thessaloniki from SantoriniandThessaloniki; Rhodes, Ioannina, Iraklio,Kavala, Mykonos, Lesvos, Athens toAlexandroupoli,Corfu,Hania, 210 6261000;www.aegeanair.com) mestic routes see p144 journey. ispartofbut onlyiftheflight aninternational a 25%studentdiscountondomesticflights, of aninternational journey.Olympicoffers ispart is 15kg,or20kgifthedomesticflight % Greece-based outfits such as Sky Express Lines AirSea Full-fare economyfares costmuch the Crete-based For more informationonOlympic’sdo- The baggage allowanceondomesticflights There isacomprehensive web- anduseful 210 9218160;fax 921 8285,www.cyclegreece.gr;

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TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT and more Theyare comfortable. also less are justasfast ashydrofoils –ifnotfaster – partofportant theislandtravel scene. They have catamarans becomeanim- High-speed Catamaran A Sea Change, below (formorenow quite comfortable see details ischanging Thefleet andtravelbetween. is in drop backtooften quite limited services more frequent fromMay toOctober and are covering inhabited every island.Services Greece hasavastandcomplexferry network BOAT €300 to €2000. as acrosstherest of Europe,anywhere from it.Biketo on-sell pricesare much thesame a problemfindingready buyerifyouwish Greece’s major youmayhave towns,though ortouringbikesbuy decentmountain in Bicycles are carriedfree onferries. Youcan Purchase of the bike. €12 perday,dependingonthetypeandage and motorcycles.Pricesrange from€5to but theyare notaswidelyavailable ascars You canhire bicyclesinmosttouristplaces, Hire 740 means that thoseexperiences willsoonbelimited totravellers’ memoriesonly. chug-a-lug voyages acrosstheseas–justchoosecarefully. The seachangeafootinGreek waters cafeterias allshowing different withthree TVs programmes;theinsalubrious bathrooms;andthe discounted However, airlineticket. ifyoulongfortheold days,youcanstillfindthesmoke-filled cabin. The costofacabinbedfromPiraeus canbenoticeablymore toRhodes expensive thana breeze. Seatravel cannowbequite expensive, especiallyifyouwantabedforthenightin catamarans, theyare stillvery travel fastandmake from oneendoftheAegean totheothera option. They offer alloftheabove, butare more conventional like ferries. Notasfastthe though theydohave lessoutside deckspace.) ferries donotconfineyoutoaseat superfast and nobenchestoparkasleepingbag on.(The for thedurationofyourtripasthere are nodecks tostrollon,noswimmingpoolsdipinto eterias andbars. However, there isatrade-off. Youare essentiallyseat-bound (oncatamarans) days. They offer first-, (!),videos,caf- sections business-andtraveller-class seating,no-smoking your islandrelaxed and rested. The sleek,fastferries andcatamaransare more planes these like especially ifyouhave ifyouwanttoarrive time–butyoucannowtravel at inseriouscomfort pounding thesearoutes betweenislandsandtheyare funinanalmostanachronisticway– travel anexperiencetoendure ratherthanenjoy.Sure, there are stillanumberofslowboats transformation. Almostgoneare thatmadeGreek thedaysofslowrustbuckets domesticferry sequent tragic lossof82humanlives, Greece’s domestic ferry scenehasundergone aradical Following the oftheF/B sinking CHANGE SEA A ETN RUD • ot AROUND••Boat GETTING The high-speedferries LinesandBlue StarFerries suchasthoserunbyMinoan are abetter ). Express Samina offParos on26September 2000,andthesub- Piraeus and Rafina totheCyclades,and Piraeus andRafina operates giant,vehicle-carrying catsfrom from thegiant‘superferries’ thatworkthe Aegean. Ferries comeinallshapes andsizes, crisscrossing the there are countless services from Aprilonwards,andbyJulyAugust topickupagain start fairly skeletal. Services tosomeof thesmallerislandsare services of inwinter somesort,although service island-hopping. Every islandhasaferry For mostpeople, travel inGreece means want totravel on weekends. far inadvanceaspossible, especiallyifyou andPatmosRhodes in the Dodecanese. wegian-built between catamarans passenger www.12ne.gr; Afstralias 3) Mykonos and Paros. toTinos,marans ontherunfromRafina routes aroundthe Saronic Gulf. tral andnorthernCycladesonmany tothecen- fromRafina smaller FlyingCats Fares are as thesame for hydrofoils. prone to cancellation in rough weather.prone tocancellationinrough Ferry Most services are very popular;bookas Most services Hellenic is themajor player. Seaways It Dodekanisos Seaways Seaways Dodekanisos FerriesBlue Star cata- operates itsSeajet runstwoluxuriousNor- (Map (Map p522 lonelyplanet.com ; % 22410 70590; Blue StarFerries ANEK ries thatchug around the backwaters. major routes tothesmall,ageing, openfer- lonelyplanet.com generally open to all and sundry. What does generally opentoallandsundry.Whatdoes public spacesonthemore modernferries are areClasses largely athingof thepast.The NEL Lines Lines Minoan LANE Lines seaways.gr) Hellenic Seaways GA Ferries ferries.com) CLASSES To Italy Corfu FERRY ROUTES A LBNI Ithaki Paxi Kefallonia Argostoli The mainferry companiesinGreece: Zakynthos ISLANDS Corfu Town IONIAN ( Lefkada M EDITRAN % I ONA Igoumenitsa S EA ( ( 210 4197420;www.anek.gr) % ( % EPIROS % ( 22510 26299;www.nel.gr) S EA % Town Zakynthos 210 4199100;www.ferries.gr/gaferries) Mytikas 210 4274011;www.lane.gr) R EPUBLICOF Meganisi M ACEDONI ( Astakos ( GETTING AROUND••Boat GETTING Y UGOSLAV Kyllini % 210 4145700;www.minoan.gr) % F ORME G REC 210 891 9800; www.bluestar 210 419 9000; www.hellenic ELLADA PELOPONNESE STEREA Patra GULF ISLANDS THESSALY MACEDONIA Kalamata SARONIC Nafplio Thessaloniki Gythio Kythira Konstantinos Volos Agios Antikythira Neapoli Kissamos Paleohora Piraeus M YRTOÖN ATHENS S EA Skiathos SPORADES Skopelos Kymi Evia Hania Lavrio B ULGARI Kythnos Rafina Kavala Alonnisos Skyros Sfakion Gavdos Hora Marmari Rethymno a sleeping bagandpillow;inacabinyouwill a sleeping destination. Onthedeckyoucanusuallypitch bly costmore thananairlineticket tothesame travel, whilealuxurycabinticket willinevita- standard cabins. cruise-ship to thefrontof theship,andwhich resemble hole. Then there are luxurycabinswithaview their equivalentoutsidecabinswithaport- two-berth interior cabinsare cheaper than accommodation: four-berth, three-berth or Thencomevariousshadesoffully sleep. cabin a reclining inwhich torelax seat andhope- give you option. Nextup,aeroplane-typeseats the deckandinterior withnoaccommodation ‘deck class’ticket typicallygives youaccessto of isthelevel differ accommodation.Your A EGN Milos CYCLADES Kea Karystos Syros Limenas Thasos S EA Myrina Deck classremains aneconomicalwayto S EAOFCRT THRACE Efstratios Paros AEGEAN ISLANDS Agios NORTHEASTERN Crete Andros Tinos Samothraki Iraklio Psara Mykonos Limnos Santorini Alexandroupoli Naxos (Thira) Ios Nikolaos Chios Agios T HRACIN Amorgos Lesvos Ikaria Anafi S EA Mytilini Sitia Patmos Town Chios DODECANESE Astypalea Samos Karpathos T URKEY Kasos Leros Kos (Samos) Vathy Kalymnos Tilos T URKEY M AR Kos Town S EAOF Nisyros Rhodes Rhodes Kastellorizo Town Symi 741

To TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT Samothraki; thelatter canbereached from reached from Kavala, andoccasionally from out are ThasosandSamothraki. Thasosis have connectionswith Piraeus.Theoddones have andall connections with Thessaloniki are easilyreached bybus from Athens. on Evia (forSkyrosonly).Thelatter twoports AgiosThessaloniki, and Kymi Konstantinos, in Epiros(forCorfu and Paxi). Greece (Sterea Ellada);andfromIgoumenitsa and Meganisi), withbothportsinCentral aki andKefallonia) andMytikas(forLefkada fromAstakos (forIth- lonia andZakynthos); Ithaki, Paxi andCorfu)Kyllini(forKefal- the Peloponnese portsof Patra (forKefallonia, Lavrio. to of Kea. There are regular fromAthens buses main portforferries totheCycladicisland The portof insouthernAttica,isthe Lavrio, northern Cyclades,Evia, andLimnos. Lesvos Ithasferries tothe by anhourlybusservice. 70kmeastof thecityandconnectedis Rafina, Gulf IslandsandCrete. port Athens’second Northeastern Aegean Islands,theSaronic Islands,thethe Cyclades,Dodecanese the portof Athens.Ferries leave here for The hubof Greece’s ferry network isPiraeus, ROUTES union)and seamen’s 10% VAT. acontributiontoNATbarkation tax, (the more than€0.50.Ticket pricesincludeem- Thediscountisseldom a ‘discountservice’. of theirdesignated commissiontoqualifyas the results of someagencies part sacrificing in priceyoumayfindatticket agencies are from theportof origin.Thesmalldifferences ofdetermined bythedistance thedestination Prices are fixed bythegovernment, andare COSTS tickets. class ticket. Pricesquoted inthisbookare fordeck cally begiven deckclasswhenpurchasing a youwillautomati- otherwise, less youstate Full fares applyforchildren over 10.Un- children fourand10payhalf-fare. between space seat to sleep. forfloororlounge juggling may findyourself ferries have limited outsidedeckspacesoyou incomfort.Many sleep modernhigh-speed 742 Ferries for theIonianIslandsleave from Some of theNortheastern Aegean Islands Ferries fortheSporadesleave from Volos, Children underfourtravel forfree, while ETN RUD • ot AROUND••Boat GETTING .greekferries.gr, search which hasauseful Trywww formation about ferry services. having tobacktrack to Piraeus. to plancarefully, youmayendup otherwise you’re going totravel inthiswayyou’llneed group toanotherare notsofrequent, andif ably more. Ferries fromoneisland sailing there tomid-September) are(June consider- island ineach season group,andduringhigh ferry adayfrommainlandporttothemajor sites (see p740 of thelarger ferry companieshave theirown programme andlinks,orwww.gtp.gr. Many local the mostup-to-date ferry informationare the accurate aspossible. Thepeople togofor tional TouristOrganisation) inAthensisas from PiraeusputoutbytheEOT (Greek Na- the comprehensive listof weekly departures isinfallible,but conking out.Notimetable to badweather,strikes ortheboatssimply delays andcancellationsatshort noticedue andferries canbesubjectto toseason, season Ferry change timetables fromyeartoand SCHEDULES Kavala in summer. Alexandroupoli year-round andalsofrom agency is reluctant togive youinformation ticketssells boat,and often forevery an of mostports, butrarely isthere onethat with service that company. can transfer yourticket tothenextavailable isthen cancelledyou Iftheservice season. pay inadvance–well inhigh tobookand need youwillinevitably though, acarspace, leaving. toreserve Ifyouneed confirmed thattheferryuntil ithasbeen is aticketcancellations, it’sbestnottopurchase Given thatferries are pronetodelaysand PURCHASE TICKET make a big difference. to make anditsestimated arrivaltime. Itcan ticket, check howmanystopstheboatisgoing pending ontheroute. buyingyour Before 15and18hourstrip cantake between de- destination. Forexample,thePiraeus–Rhodes islands youdecidetovisitonthewayyour one ferry toanother,dependingonhowmany are usuallyonornear the quayside. Throughout theyearthereThroughout isatleastone Agencies tickets selling linethe waterfront Travelling timecanvaryconsiderably from On theinternet you’llfindlotsof in- limenarhio ). (port police), whose offices offices (portpolice),whose lonelyplanet.com on Samos,linksthatislandwithKosinthe pr police. port ferry isnexttodepart–oryoucanaskthe played outsideeach agency tofindoutwhich means youhave tocheck dis- thetimetables ticketsabout aboattheydonotsell for. This lonelyplanet.com these arethese beingreplaced by new purpose- – sturdy oldfishingboats –butgradually one groupwithan island in another. a group,andsometimes linkinganislandin there are smallerboatslinkingislandswithin the large mainlandports andislandgroups, In additiontothelarge ferries thatplybetween Boat Inter-island agent. an foils –youmustbuytheminadvance from of its Sporades services. Hellenic operate hydrofoils onsome Seaways Alexandroupoli toSamothrakiandLimnos. Thasos intheNortheastern Aegean, andfrom hydrofoil routes Kavala operate between and Other andislandsinbetween. Dodecanese archipelago. Aegean in isolationsomeof theremoter partsof the andjetboats.Theynowjustexist catamarans main bymore andjustasfast comfortable come andgo. Theyhave replaced been inthe transport scenebuthave theirheyday seen Hydrofoils tobepopular on theGreek used Hydrofoil the regular ferries. considerably. Itcharges about20%more than islands,cuttingdowntravellingdecanese time many destinationsintheCycladicandDo- ofLines, anditsfleet modernboatsserves ferries.com) twiceasmuch as roughly ferries.standard cost to RethymnoonCrete. services These withtheF/B service speed and Amorgos. Inaddition,there isahigh- Mykonos, Paros, Kythnos Naxos,Lavrio, which operate fromPiraeustoSyros,Tinos, Panagia Thalassini the waywithitsfuturistic-lookingF/B NEL Lines travel timesonsomeof thelonger routes. canslash supermodernleviathans These Ferries High-Speed In the past these boats wereIn thepastthese always caïques Tickets onboardhydro- cannotbebought Blue StarFerries Aegean FlyingDolphins Aegean

is almost in the same leagueasNEL isalmostinthesame ( % 22510 26299;www.ferries.gr/nel) GETTING AROUND••Bus GETTING

( % and 210 8919800;www.bluestar

( % Aeolos Kenteris II, Aeolos Kenteris 210 4221766) Aeolos Kenteris I Aeolos Kenteris , based , based leads

covered waiting withseating, bus station bone-shaking, three-wheeled truck. of ifitisonlya transport –even motorised yet acquired abus,butmost have somesort Some of themore remote islandshave not boats. normally meet rather thanaport,buses and return earlyin the afternoon. leave thevillages very earlyinthemorning shop, ratherthanfortourists.They normally for thebenefitof peoplegoingtotown Theyoperate aweek. only oneortwobuses remotesome sort,although areas mayhave to beolderand less comfortable. deckers. Inmore-remote ruralareas theytend on themajor are routes. Somebuses double- daysmostarethese air-conditioned –atleast the ferry ticket. Athens bybus–thefares includethepriceof canalsobereached directlyZakynthos from Athens. Theislandsof Corfu,Kefallonia and the mainlandhave frequent connectionsto allthemajoriced byThessaloniki, townson exception of townsinThrace, which are serv- are fixed by the government. found ontheinternet atwww.ktel.org. Fares main townsof otherprefectures. Mostcanbe withintheprefecture andtothe local services the mainlandhasaKTEL,which operates Eispraxeon Leoforion). Every prefecture on collectives knownas KTEL ( Koino Tamio and theislands,are operated byregional All long-distance onthemainlandbuses, BUS reasonable. quite of passengers. Eitherway,pricesare usually boat, andthiscostisdividedbythenumber each person, others charge aflatrate forthe to byland.Someowners charge pricefor aset porting peopletoplacesthatare toget difficult thatoperatesmall speedboats like trans- taxis, Most islandshave boats)– (taxi water taxis Taxi Water island-hopping. you’re large ferries, buttheboatsare very if useful Tickets tend tocostmore thantickets forthe fast asthelarger orhydrofoils. catamarans or excursion boats.Someof are these as built boats,which are usuallycalledexpress Larger townsusually haveLarger acentral, On islandswhere is inland thecapital of Most villages have adailybusservice The KTEL buses areThe KTELbuses safe andmodern, The networkiscomprehensive. Withthe

743 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT have hadlittleimpact onthetoll;Greek roads ofcause accidents.Ever-stricter laws traffic year, withovertaking listed asthegreatest More than2000peopledie ontheroadsevery rate inEurope.road fatality isthehighest will be tohearthatthecountry’s surprised No-one whohastravelled onGreece’s roads MOTORCYCLE & CAR ferry, 8½ hours). hours) andAthens–Corfu(€44 including (€16, three hours), Athens–Volos (€20,five (€31,7½hours),Thessaloniki Athens–Patra 100km. Somemajor routes include Athens– a journeycostingapproximately €4per Bus travel isvery reasonably priced,with Costs is prohibited onall buses in Greece. threeevery hours onlongjourneys.Smoking prepared stopabout onbothcounts.Buses refreshments available, somake sure youare ally have toiletsonboardandtheydon’thave onless-frequentedBuses routes do notusu- minutes before their scheduled departure. haveand buses knowntoleave been afew fore departure tomake sure youget aseat, ticket handy for checking. may meanthatyouhave Keep tostand. your this a popularroute, season, orduringhigh bus withoutaticket andpayonboard,but Greeks andtouristsalike. Youcanboarda confusionamong infront;thiscauses seat ofeach thebus,notonbackof seat the numberisindicated onthe The seat number,which isnoted ontheticket.a seat using the24-hour clock system. if youare makingadaytrip.Times are listed both thedeparture andreturn times–useful Greek give andRomanscript.Thetimetables havemost bookingoffices inboth timetables maybeinGreekthe timetable only,but doubles asabookingoffice. Inremote areas, side a tion’ maybenomore thanabusstopout- destination. your Make sure youfindthecorrect for station different regions. eachbus station, serving mayhaveand Thessaloniki more thanone that bigcitieslike Athens,Iraklio, Patra cakes andcoffee. tonote Itisimportant pies, rooms, toilets,andasnackbarselling 744 In smalltownsandvillages the‘bussta- It’s besttoturnupatleast20minutes be- When youbuyaticket youwillbeallotted ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING kafeneio (coffee house) ortaverna (coffee house) that back of of ferry ticket ifyouarrive oryour fromItaly, of entry–ifrequested bythepolice–isyour that’s required. Your onlyproof of thedate (international third-partyinsurance)isall without roadtaxes beingdue. Agreen card into Greece sixmonths butmayonlystay EU-registered vehicles are allowedfree entry Bring YourOwnVehicle Paraskevi) 8800; www.elpa.gr inGreek; 395,Agia Leoforos Mesogion ELPA Greece’s domesticautomobile associationis ticket.for adeck-classpassenger large astheprice motorcycleisabout thesame and Piraeus–Samos,€81.Thecharge fora €76; Piraeus–Crete (Hania andIraklio),€79; hicles upto4.25mincludePiraeus–Mykonos, but theyare expensive. Samplepricesforve- see p726 to get agoodroadmap(formore information, of EpirosandthePeloponnese. It’simportant asphalted –particularlyinmore remote parts as dirttracksonoldermapshave nowbeen mously inrecent years; manyroadsmarked track. Theroadnetworkhasimproved enor- car isagreat waytoexplore off thebeaten driving techniques. remain yourdefensive- agoodplacetopractise amolyvdi from region toregion. Super (leaded)and generally bythe government, set butcanvary itisexpensive.tralian standards Pricesare European countries, butbyAmericanorAus- Petrol inGreece ischeaper thaninmost other upjustincase. level to keep thereservoir credit-card pumps,soitisalwaysadvisable pumps are notthenorminGreece, norare weekends andpublicholidays.Self-service on may beclosed stations service try, though Fuel isavailable thecoun- widelythroughout Fuel &SpareParts beforeobtained youleave home. national DrivingPermit, which shouldbe Greece requires anInter- thatyoupossess Licence Driving logged inyourpassport. where. Non-EU-registered vehicles maybe ifenteringpassport fromelse- entrystamp Atmbl Associations Automobile Almost all islands are served bycarferries, Almost allislandsare served Heart-stopping momentsaside,yourown

(Elliniki Leschi Aftokinitou kai Periigiseon; kai Leschi Aftokinitou (Elliniki . ). (unleaded) isalwaysavailable, as lonelyplanet.com % 210 606 edented rises inpetrolcostsrecentedented rises years per litre isusuallycheaper. mark.Diesel mid-2007 unleadedpetrolwasaroundthe€1 it’s hardtobedefinite aboutprices,butin is lonelyplanet.com or 14%ontheislandsof theDodecanese, pricesmustbeaddedVATthese of 19%, inwinter.ping toabout€200perweek To drop- est models,such asaFiatSeicento, mileage atabout€280forthesmall- start a numberof outlets. destinations. Islandsnowadaystend tohave branches inmajor townsandpopulartourist nies are represented inAthens,andmosthave to bargain. Allthebigmultinationalcompa- where competition offers better opportunities where, butit’sbesttohire frommajor cities carsRental are available justabout every- CAR Hire oraHummer.hubcap foraCadillac have findingaspareyou might difficulties pean cars are available everywhere, though ROAD DISTANCES(KM) Volos Tripoli Thessaloniki Igoumenitsa Florina Edessa Corinth Athens Alexandroupoli Trikala Sparta Patra Nafplio Monemvasia Larisa Lamia Kavala Kastoria Kalamata Ioannina Pyrgos petreleo kinisis High-season weekly rates weekly withunlimited High-season Spare partsformostJapanese andEuro- 1156 1055 1025 177 816 556 884 854 554 828 924 947 535 497 427 643 702 964 349 493 --- Alexandroupoli AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING (diesel). Given (diesel). theunprec- 165 326 330 320 350 220 569 284 214 194 447 489 682 592 473 225 513 361 --- 84 Athens 138 175 596 356 266 110 519 364 234 244 655 389 5 271 355 145 544 393 251 --- 63 Corinth 108 636 380 567 659 869 250 767 227 278 218 298 355 353 737 713 --- 89 Edessa 664 360 320 320 855 159 643 513 763 353 293 233 759 231 681 --- 67 Florina 286 367 247 615 309 613 353 517 482 457 452 501 371 281 --- 96 Igoumenitsa 148 579 204 347 247 209 525 427 467 263 430 362 483 --- Ioannina 156 119 690 520 220 878 518 163 415 715 561 --- 60 90 Kalamata 159 756 274 358 239 542 582 660 639 220 483 301 --- Kastoria 770 664 747 976 377 466 169 820 383 323 848 --- be atleast21–or23for larger vehicles. years, butmostcar-hire firmsrequire youto ofdetails placesto rent cars. ofting Aroundsections citiesandislandsfor theGet- mum depositof €120perday.See most hire companieswillrequire amini- you. Unlessyoupaywithacredit card, company, astheinsurancemaynotcover vance written fromthehire authorisation country orontoaferry, ad- youwillneed negotiation, especiallyifbusiness is slow. 50% cheaper, andtheyare normallyopento panies. Theiradvertised rates canbeupto and prepaid rates. companies offer much cheaper prebooked and personal accidentinsurance. Themajor include atheftwaiver of atleast€6perday (much more forlarger models).Othercosts be liable forthefirst €295of therepair bill for larger models),withoutwhich youwill lision damage waiver of €12 perday(more There are alsooptional extras such as acol- the Northeastern Aegean andtheSporades. Kavala The minimumdrivingage inGreece is18 You canfindbetter dealsatlocalcom- If youwanttotake ahire cartoanother 115 115 284 307 193 505 324 385 303 151 --- Lamia 154 655 455 432 533 472 341 --- 62 62 Larisa 620 597 157 275 215 807 332 --- 96 Monemvasia 208 417 419 119 610 201 --- 81 Nafplio 310 176 308 236 488 --- 96 Patra 180 400 155 408 584 --- Pyrgos 524 501 711 --- 61 Sparta 624 216 214 --- Thessaloniki 124 6 --- 466 --- Trikala 435 Tripoli --- 745

Volos TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT so check the fine print! insurance companiesdon’t offer thiscover, sulting fromamotorcycle accident.Many travel insurance covers youforinjuryre- a motorcycleor moped, check thatyour ner profile tyres. Ifyouare planningtouse bends. Trytohire amotorcyclewiththin- are particularlypronetoslidingongravely tourists have year. accidentsevery Scooters Novices shouldbevery careful; dozensof of gravel roads–particularlyontheislands. intomotorcycling.Thereself are stillalot Greece isnotthebestplacetoinitiate your- Warning helmet. a Police willbookyouifyou’re without caught obliged tooffer oneaspartof thehire deal. are compulsory andrental agencies are Helmetswill notincludemedicalexpenses. tocheckbut it’swise this.Thisinsurance include third-partyinsuranceintheprice, little as€5perday.Mostmotorcyclehirers sometimes possibletohire amopedforas yourbargaininguse skills.ByOctober itis pricesdropconsiderably, so these of season to €25perdayfora250ccmotorcycle. Out €15 perdayforamopedor50ccmotorcycle to travel range from€10to around.Rates are automatically issued). licencesmost otherEUcountriesseparate Vehicle LicensingAgency intheUK(in AlicencefromtheDrivera Category and from 50ccup.British citizensmustobtain you wish torent; thisappliestoeverything proficiency toridethecategory of bike you mustproducealicencethatshows the earliestopportunity. condition. Nonetheless,check thebrakes at them. Mostmachines are newishandingood able forhire wherever there are touriststorent Mopeds, motorcyclesandscooters are avail- MOTORCYCLE rates andspecial offers. thecompanywebsites fortheircurrent See Hertz Europcar Budget Avis Greece: 746 To hire amoped,motorcycleorscooter Some of themajor car-hire players in Motorcycles orscooters are acheap way ( % ( ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING % ( % 210 3224951;www.avis.gr) ( % 210 6264000;www.hertz.gr) 210 3498800;www.budget.gr) 210 9602382;www.europcar.gr) to subsidenceorweathering.Snowandicecan ofrapidly whenasection road hassuccumbed on Greece’s roads.Roadsurfacescanchange events traffic serious tourists–cancause tant Slow drivers –manyof themunsure andhesi- Hazards Road tendbut completed to sections end abruptly. unfinished. Where completed itisvery good, the EpirostoMacedonia stillremaining sector withonly Odos) isbeingcompleted insections ous, attimes.ThenewViaEgnatia (Egnatia danger-and canbeconfusing,ifnotoutright format of the1960sroadplanningmentality road stillretain thetwo-lane/hardshoulder Large partsoftional motorwaystandards. this the Athens–Patra motorwayare uptointerna- ofnearing completionwhileonlysegments motorwayis The mainAthens–Thessaloniki to fullsteam asfarqualityisconcerned. ing steadily over theyears butare stillnotup Main inGreece highways have improv- been Conditions Road your vehicle ifyouare at fault. ofcosts intheevent to anydamage caused youmaybeupforhefty party only.Otherwise whether itisfullycomprehensive orthird hire agreements, butyouare tocheck advised Insurance isalwaysincludedinanyvehicle Insurance 120km/h on highways, 90km/hon otherroads 120km/h onhighways, clists ifthemotorcycle is50cc or more. petrol. Helmets are compulsory formotorcy- triangle, anditis forbidden tocarrycansof first-aid kit,fire extinguisherandwarning Itiscompulsorytocarrya in thefrontseat. Children under12years of age are notallowed ifthecarisfitted withthem. and inbackseats beltsmustbeworn infrontseats, way. Seat vehicles have comingfromtheright of right ofhas right wayatintersections. Intowns, Outside built-upareas, onamainroad traffic you drive andovertake ontheright ontheleft. Europe, In Greece, Continental asthroughout Rules Road to avehicle’s underside orthrowa bike rider. extensivefallen rocksthatcancause damage areasmountainous are often littered with vigilance isrequired. Roadspassingthrough rural areas maywanderontoroads,soextra are tocarrysnowchains. advised Animalsin challengebe aserious inwinter, anddrivers Outside residential areas limitis thespeed lonelyplanet.com larger motorcycles, 90km/h. for motorcyclesupto100ccis70km/hand and 50km/hinbuilt-upareas. limit Thespeed lonelyplanet.com system. Formore details, see p150 to warrant thebuildingof anunderground Athens istheonly cityinGreece large enough Metro for ting Aroundsection each city. tickets iscovered forlocalbuses intheGet- Theprocedureand Thessaloniki. forbuying themareto need Athens,Patra, Kalamata buttheonlyplacesyou’relocal buses, likely around onfoot.Allthemajor townshave Most Greek townsare toget smallenough Bus TRANSPORT LOCAL ifyouhaven’teven stucka thumb out. for someonetostopandaskifyouwantalift, transport. Oncountryroadsitisnotunknown remote areas and on islandswithpoorpublic Hitching ismuchtoriously difficult. easierin ies tends to be hardworkandAthensisno- hitching than others.outof Getting major cit- companion, preferably a male one. it alone. It’sbetter forawomantohitch witha todo for womentohitch, butitisstillunwise has areputation forbeingarelatively safe place know where theyare planningtogo. Greece if theytravel inpairs andshouldletsomeone risk. People tohitch whodochoose willbesafer they are asmallbutpotentially taking serious lers whodecidetohitch shouldunderstand that the world,andwedon’trecommend it.Travel- Hitching entirely isnever safe inanycountry HITCHING inform thepolicemayfacea prison sentence. not notstopanddoes injury, adriver whodoes Ifanaccidentinvolvesinsurance purposes. pened. Apolicereport mayberequired for andexplainwhathap- nearby policestation write areport, togoa but it isadvisable one ishurt,thepolicewillnotberequired to over 0.08%isa criminal offence. content of 0.05%canincurafineof €150,and drink-driving laws–atlast.Ablood-alcohol escape with a warning. by 40%costs€150.Inpractice,mosttourists are liabletoreceive afineof it €60;exceeding Some partsof Greece are much better for The policehave alsocracked downon If youare involved inanaccidentandno- Drivers limitby20% thespeed exceeding GETTING AROUND••Hitching GETTING . always referred toasthe OSE. You’ll find sation Trains are operated by TRAIN around Greece, see p739 of Greece. Forinformationoncyclingtours .gr) .trekking.gr) whileoutfitslikenese, operates outof Karitena inthePelopon- yoning. orcan- water rafting,kayaking,canoeing activities involving hiking,climbing,white- accommodation and half-board. pricesincludetwin-shareDelphi (€448).These at Mycenae,Nafplio,Epidavros, Olympiaand and Meteora (€299)andafour-day tourcalling longer tripssuch asathree-day tourtoDelphi Mycenae andEpidavros (€130).Theyalsooffer They includedaytripstoDelphi(€79)and ens andoffering almostidenticaltours ( p129 andKeySightseeing, Tours, inAth- allbased major players are CHAT, GOTours, HopIn less companiesvyingforyourmoney.The is very limited, there inwhich case are count- Tours are worthconsideringonlyifyourtime TOURS on thewhole,friendly,helpful and honest. p110 the touristpolice. Formore informationsee the cabnumberandreport yourcomplaintto you have driver, acomplaintabout ataxi take to take unwarytravellers forafinancialride. If address. exact tination isabreeze aslongyouhave the Nav systems intheircars, sofindingades- price before you get in. have meters, ona soyoushould alwayssettle of luggage over 10kg.Grey donot ruraltaxis and€0.30foreachport ortrainstation piece costs are €3fromanairport,€0.80abus, and5am.Additional midnight ble between per kilometre rates dou- outsidetown).These €0.75, followedby€0.28perkilometre (€0.53 if three orfourpeople share costs. especially ably pricedbyEuropeanstandards, very smallorremote islands.Theyare reason- Taxis are widelyavailable inGreece excepton Taxi runsimilardealsinthecentre andnorth More adventurous tours includeguided driversSome taxi inAthenshave known been Yellow citycabsare metered. Flagfallis Many younger drivers taxi nowhave Sat- .Taxi drivers inothertownsGreece are,

(Organismos SidirodromonEllados; www.ose.gr) Alpin Club or Robinson Expeditions

(www.alpinclub.gr) Greek Railways Organi- Railways Greek Trekking Hellas Trekking .

(www.robinson inAthens

(www 747

).

, TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT essentially only two main lines: the standard onlytwomainlines:thestandard essentially way networkisthatitsolimited. There are Available are 1st-and2nd-class smoking/ but thetrainsare modernand comfortable. Greek terrain forthat– isfartoomountainous are express notnecessarily –the The services Greek citiesare anexcellentwaytotravel. cheaper than bus travel. fares are absurdlycheap, 1stclassis andeven cheapest formof publictransport:2nd-class trains thatlinkmost major cities. andfaster, modernintercityat allstations, regular (slow)trainsthatstop types of service: to remain unchanged. There willstill betwo other features of OSEoperationsare expected changesDespite theproposed torailnetworks, Classes Thessaloniki. and the electrificationof Athens theline between Athens. Themajor change inthepipelineis networkwillbeginatCorinth,instead ofnese The bigdifference willbethatthePelopon- own narrow-gauge system, forthetimebeing. information see p151 with CorinthinthePeloponnese. Formore urban trainnetworkthatlinksAthens’airport thatiscurrentlystation stillpartof thesub- to openin2008,willreplace theoldLarisis handle allintercitydue trains.Thisstation, tion inthenorthernsuburbof Aharnesto Athens, which isslowlybuildinganewsta- longer-term changes willbeinandaround haul priortotheOlympicGames.Thebiggest fact, thenetworkunderwentamajor over- andarestandard, improving allthetime. In onward linkstothe Sporades islands. (Meteora) andthePelion portof Volosfor TrainsalsoruntoKalambakation initself. the roundPeloponnese railrideisanattrac- to Athensifarrivingbyferry and fromItaly, waytoget thetrainisauseful fromPatrasaid, anarrow-gaugework, which uses track.That andthePeloponnesevia Thessaloniki, net- from AthenstoAlexandroupoli gauge service calling by canbesought from AthensorThessaloniki website. Informationondomesticdepartures information onfares andschedules onthe 748 The bulkof thePeloponnese willretain its The biggest problemwiththeGreek rail- The services thatdoexistare of agood The services The intercity trainsthatlinkthemajor The slowtrainsrepresent thecountry’s ETN RUD • ri AROUND••Train GETTING % 1440. . city services withoutpaying city services the loading. for2nd-class canbeused passes travel oninter- only placewhere them.The youplantouse but it’snotworthbuyingoneifGreece isthe Eurail andInter-Rail cardsare validinGreece, Passes Train ments (€42)andsingle compartments (€54). couchettes (from€8.60),two-bed compart- withachoiceAthens andThessaloniki, of for €63/48 (four hours). expressnonstop Athens–Thessaloniki service €22/16 (5½hours). There isanadditional hours), toAlexandroupoli andThessaloniki €49.50/35.30(5¼Athens toThessaloniki during summer. Sample1st-/2nd-class fares: made asfarinadvancepossible,especially shouldbe reservations the normalfares. Seat loadingchargedject toadistance ontopof droupoli costs€12/8 hours).(eight toAlexan- hours). AtripfromThessaloniki expecttopay€22/15(six ens toThessaloniki For a1st-/2nd-classslow-traintripfromAth- Costs dered anddelivered to your seat. mealscanbeor- board. Onsomeservices, andtherenonsmoking seats isacafé-bar on groups of 10people or more. on return tickets, anda30% discountfor Therefrom trainstations. isa30%discount inafewing offices major towns, otherwise travel, plusfive free journeys per year. getCardholders a50%reduction ontrain valid foroneyearfromthedate of issue. class travel and€54.90for2nd class,andare IDs orpassports.Theycost€82.50 for1st- over 60years of age of onpresentation their one. without Youcannotboardatrain have areservation. 30 days.Whatever passyouhave, youmust 10 days,€72.20for20daysand€92.30 routes. An individual passcosts€43.15for limited number of journeysonallthe rail days andentitletheholdertomake an un- five people. Passes are validfor10,20or30 as wellforfamiliesandgroupsof upto which isavailable forindividualpassengers, another optionistobuyatouristrailpass, Tickets fromOSEbook- canbebought cardsare availableSenior topassengers If you’re planningonusingtrainsalot, A comfortable night service runs between runsbetween service night A comfortable areTicket sub- pricesforintercity services lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 749 International Travel Travel International is revised annually and is availa- is websites include www.mdtravelhealth.com include www.mdtravelhealth.com websites for every health recommendations (travel daily), www.fit fortravel country; updated advice for the travel (general .scot.nhs.uk (advice www.ageconcern.org.uk layperson), for the elderly) and www.mari on travel (information on women’s estopes.org.uk and contraception). health IN TRANSIT DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) Blood clots may form in the legs during plane immo- prolonged becauseflights, chiefly of the the flight, the greater bility (the longer DVT symptom of is swelling risk). The chief the foot, ankle, or calf, usually but or pain of When a blood not always on just one side. to the lungs, it may cause chest clot travels difficulties. Travellers pain and breathing these imme- symptoms should with any of seekdiately To prevent medical attention. DVTthe development of on long flights you the cabin, contract the leg should walk about fluids muscles while sitting, drink plenty of and tobacco. alcohol and avoid JET LAG nonalcoholic jet lag drink plenty of To avoid fluids and eat light meals. Upon arrival, get to natural sunlight and readjust exposure advance if your insurance plan will make make your insurance plan will advance if reimburse or to providers payments directly health expenditures. for overseas you later RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS to Greece, to travel required No jabs are vaccination certificate but a yellow-fever coming from an in- if you are is required Organiza- Health The World area. fected that all travellers tion (WHO) recommends for diphtheria, tetanus, should be covered polio. and measles, mumps, rubella INTERNET RESOURCES The WHO’s publication and Health Other useful ble online at www.who.int/ith/. Traveller’s Diarrhoea Traveller’s 750 Before You Go Before 749 Insurance 749 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Resources Internet In Transit (DVT) Thrombosis Deep Vein Jet Lag 749 In Greece Care & Cost of Health Availability 749 Environmental Hazards wwith Children Travelling 749 750 Women’s Health Sexual Health 749 750 751 750 749 751 751 BEFORE YOU GO INSURANCE INSURANCE an EU citizen, a European Health If you’re Insurance Card (EHIC; formerly the E111) but not you for most medical care covers home or non- repatriation emergency health from It is available emergencies. and post offices in the UK. Citizens centres, from other countries should find out if there medi- for free arrangement is a reciprocal between their country and Greece. cal care sure If you do need health insurance, make you for the worst a policy that covers you get as an accident requir- possible scenario, such flight Find out in home. ing an emergency CONTENTS healthy to staying is the key Prevention depar- while abroad. A little planning before illnesses, particularly for pre-existing ture, Bring medications trouble later. will save containers. in their original, clearly labelled from your physi- letter A signed and dated cian describing your medical conditions and names, is also medications, including generic or needles, If carrying syringes a good idea. docu- a physician’s letter to have be sure menting their medical necessity. If you are your sure embarking on a long trip, make your optical prescrip- OK and take are teeth you. with tion H e a l t h 750 IN GREECE •• Availability & Cost of Health Care lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN GREECE •• Travelling with Children 751

your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon months of September and October. Although Nonetheless choose accommodation that has weather can change rapidly so carry water- as possible. jellyfish are not lethal in Greece, their stings flyscreen window-protection wherever pos- proof garments, warm layers and a hat, and can hurt. Dousing the affected area with vin- sible. Mosquito species can vary as can your inform others of your route. Hypothermia egar will deactivate any stingers that have not reaction to their bites. Mosquitoes in north- starts with shivering, loss of judgment and IN GREECE ‘fired’. Calamine lotion, antihistamines and ern Greece can provoke a severe reaction. clumsiness. Unless rewarming occurs, the suf- analgesics may help reduce any reaction you The Asian tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus) ferer deteriorates into apathy, confusion and AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE experience and relieve the pain of any stings. may be encountered in mountainous areas coma. Prevent further heat loss by seeking If you need an ambulance in Greece call Much more painful than either of these, but and can be a voracious daytime biter. It is shelter, warm dry clothing, hot sweet drinks %166. There is at least one doctor on every thankfully much rarer, is an encounter with known to carry several viruses, including and shared bodily warmth. island and larger islands have hospitals. Phar- the weever fish. The fish buries itself in the Eastern equine encephalitis, which can af- macies can dispense medicines that are avail- sand of the tidal zone with only its spines fect the central nervous system and cause se- TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN able only on prescription in most European protruding, and injects a painful and power- vere complications and death. Use protective Make sure children are up to date with rou- countries, so you can consult a pharmacist for ful toxin if trodden on. Soaking your foot in sprays or lotion if you suspect you are being tine vaccinations and discuss possible travel minor ailments. very hot water (which breaks down the poi- bitten during the day. vaccines well before departure as some vac- All this sounds fine but, although medical son) should solve the problem. Weever-fish Invisible bedbugs can be a major irritation cines are not suitable for children under a training is of a high standard in Greece, the stings can cause permanent local paralysis in if encountered. Symptoms are lots of pinprick year old. Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children public health service is badly underfunded. the worst case. bites that you may initially assign to mosqui- includes travel health advice for younger Hospitals can be overcrowded, hygiene is not Greece’s only dangerous snake is the adder. toes – even if you are covered up. There is no children. always what it should be and relatives are ex- To minimise the possibilities of being bitten, protection other then to change to a nonin- pected to bring in food for the patient – which always wear boots, socks and long trousers fected bed. Airing the mattress thoroughly in WOMEN’S HEALTH could be a problem for a tourist. Conditions when walking through undergrowth where the sun may alleviate the problem. Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling and treatment are much better in private hos- snakes may be present. Don’t put your hands through different time zones can all contrib- pitals, which are expensive. All this means that into holes and crevices, and be careful when Heatstroke ute to an upset in the menstrual pattern. a good health-insurance policy is essential. collecting firewood. Snake bites do not cause Heatstroke occurs following excessive fluid If using oral contraceptives, remember instantaneous death and an antivenin is loss with inadequate replacement of fluids and some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomiting HEALTH TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA widely available. Keep the victim calm and salt. Symptoms of heatstroke include head- can stop the pill from working. Time zones, If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink still, wrap the bitten limb tightly, as you would ache, dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration is gastrointestinal upsets and antibiotics do not HEALTH plenty of fluids, preferably in the form of an for a sprained ankle, and attach a splint to already happening by the time you feel thirsty affect injectable contraception. oral rehydration solution such as dioralyte. immobilise it. Seek medical help, if possi- – aim to drink sufficient water to produce Travelling during pregnancy is usually pos- If diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more than ble with the dead snake for identification. pale, diluted urine. To treat heatstroke drink sible but always consult your doctor before 72 hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking, Don’t attempt to catch the snake if there is water and/or fruit juice, and cool the body planning your trip. The most risky times for chills or severe abdominal pain you should a possibility of being bitten again. Tourni- with cold water and fans. travel are during the first 12 weeks of preg- seek medical attention. quets and sucking out the poison are now nancy and after 30 weeks. comprehensively discredited. Hypothermia ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Always check all over your body if you Hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat SEXUAL HEALTH Bites, Stings & Insect-Borne Diseases have been walking through a potentially tick- faster than it can produce it. As ever, proper Condoms are readily available but emergency Keep an eye out for sea urchins lurking around infested area as ticks can cause skin infections preparation will reduce the risks of getting contraception may not be, so take the neces- rocky beaches; if you get some of their nee- and other more serious diseases. If a tick is it. Even on a hot day in the mountains, the sary precautions. dles embedded in your skin, olive oil should found attached, press down around the tick’s help to loosen them. If they are not removed head with tweezers, grab the head and gently they will become infected. You should also pull upwards. Avoid pulling the rear of the be wary of jellyfish, particularly during the tick’s body as this may squeeze the tick’s gut contents through the attached mouth parts into the skin, increasing the risk of infection and disease. WARNING Greece is now officially rabies-free, how- Codeine, which is commonly found in head- ever even if the animal is not rabid, all animal ache preparations, is banned in Greece; bites should be treated seriously as they can check labels carefully, or risk prosecution. become infected or can result in tetanus. There are strict regulations applying to the Mosquitoes can be an annoying problem in importation of medicines into Greece, so Greece so some precautions may be needed, obtain a certificate from your doctor that though there is no danger of contracting ma- outlines any medication you may have to laria. The electric plug-in mosquito repellents carry into the country with you. are usually sufficient – and more bearable than coils – to keep the insects at bay at night. LANGUAGE cabulary combinedwithwords fromGreek influence andsynthesis oftheancientvo- abroad. Itisthe result ofanintralinguistic most Greekspeakers bothinGreeceand ern Greekdialect whichisnowusedby con ofanyscientificrepertoire. European language,andmuchof thelexi- large partofthevocabularyany Indo- lightenment. Today,Greekconstitutes a and terminologiesduringtheperiod ofEn- perspective forallcontemporary sciences sance andwasemployedasthelinguistic during theriseofEuropeanRenais- of theByzantineEmpire(380–1453). pire; anditsproclamationasthelanguage official languageoftheEasternRomanEm- the newreligion,Christianity;itsuseas AD 100);itsadaptationasthelanguageof during theHellenisticperiod(330BCto the GreatandhissuccessorsasfarIndia Middle Easternworld,spreadbyAlexander its useasalinguafrancathroughoutthe and theDemocracy(mid-5thcenturyBC); strength duringthegoldenageofAthens the fourmillenniawascharacterisedbyits proximately 3000years.Itsevolutionover of 4000yearsandawrittentraditionap- European language,withanoraltradition The Greeklanguageisprobablytheoldest CONTENTS Language 752 The modernGreeklanguageisa south- Greek maintaineditsstatusandprestige ie&Dts 757 758 756 757 Travel withChildren 756 757 Transport Time &Dates Shopping &Services Question Words Emergencies 756 754 Paperwork 756 Numbers 756 Language Difficulties Health 755 Directions 754 Conversation &Essentials Accommodation 752 Pronunciation 752 What’s theaddress? Could you write the address, please? theaddress, Could youwrite I’d like tobook... I’d like

a bed a room asingleroom ayouthhostel a hotel

Are there anyroomsavailable? there Are ne· psa I’m for... looking ACCOMMODATION is pronounced the stressfalls.Forinstance, have anacuteaccentwhichindicateswhere All Greekwordsoftwoormoresyllables PRONUNCIATION some fivemillionGreekswholiveabroad. population ofaround10million,andby and Macedonian. regional dialects,namelyCretan,Cypriot tha Υπάρχουν i· Παρακαλώ pa·ra·ka· Ποια pya Πού pou adoubleroom acheaphotel? Where’s is pronounced slightly gutturalversionof‘g’. nounced as‘th’in‘then’and where stressfalls.Notealsothat transliterations, italicletteringindicates par e e e e e e ·na ·na mo· ·na kre· ·nan kse· ·na kse·no·dho· ·na dho· ·hno yi Greek isspokenthroughoutGreecebya i dho· dho·

i i ·the·la na ·chun e· ·ne idhi· είναι

·ne είναι o dhi ·ti·tas ma ma lo e

·na fti· kin ·kli·no · ένα bo·

a ... va no η ελεύθερα , ma ·ti·o ·ti·o no lef

μπορείτε διεύθυνση ·ti kin ·kli·no ef

ri kli φτηνό ·ti·o n ·na ·the·ra dho· ·thin·si ·te na no ·so ... chi

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a ·o δωμάτια

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; ·o δωμάτιο δωμάτιο νεότητας ήθελα

. Inthefollowing δίκλινο μονόκλινο κρεββάτι ξενοδοχείο δωμάτιο , and ;

ξενώνα

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γξ Φ Ε Δ τζ Ν Θ Ρ Ζ Χ pronounced ‘v’.TheGreek questionmark isrepresented withtheEnglish equivalentofasemicolon‘ μπ Ο Α Greek Pronunciation THE GREEK ALPHABET &PRONUNCIATION Example Guide Κάιρο γαϊδουράκι as intheexamplesbelow: The pairsofvowelsshownaboveare pronouncedseparatelyifthefirst has anacuteaccent,orthesecondadieresis, γκ ντ οι ει Greek Pronunciation The combinationsoflettersshownhere are pronouncedasfollows: Combinations ofLetters Example Guide Ω Μ Η ου Π Κ Some Greek consonantsoundshave noEnglishequivalent.The Σ Λ γγ αι Τ Γ Ψ

Υ Ι Ξ Β

ι

γ

ζ ε τ ξ χ σ

ρ

κ

λ υ α β δ ο

θ

π η ν ω

φ ψ

μ

,

ς

gai·dhou· like arough‘h’ like Scottish‘loch’,or v a dz ks ng g nd d mb b u e i i o ps kh f ‘r’ aslightlytrilled i t s r p o x n m l k i th i z e dh y gh asin‘feet’ asin‘feet’ asin‘feet’ asin‘feet’ asin‘feet’ asin‘leg’ asin‘find’ asin‘road’ asin‘tap’ asin‘sand’ asin‘zoo’ asin‘yes’ asin‘vine’ asin‘ox’ as in ‘kite’ asin‘kite’ asin‘bet’ asin‘egg’ asin‘father’ asin‘hot’ asin‘hot’ asin‘God’ asin‘dot’ asin‘beer’ asin‘pup’ asin‘mood’ asin‘net’ kai asin‘man’ asin‘minks’ asin‘throw’ asin‘lapse’ asin‘hands’ asin‘angle’ asin‘bend’ asin‘there’ arough‘g’ like asthe‘ch’in asin‘amber’ ·ro Cairo ra ·ki little donkey LANGUAGE ••TheGreek Alphabet&Pronunciation τζάκι σφιγξ αγγελία γκάζι πέντε ντουλάπα κάμπος μπάλα πού αίμα οικόπεδο είδα ώρα ψωμί χέρι χάνω φύλλο ύστερα τόπος σημάδι ρόδα ρέμα πάω όλα ξύδι νερό μαμά λάθος καλά ίδιος θέμα ήταν ζώο ένας δέμα για γάτα βήμα αγάπη y for ya

pou who/what/where

ne·

ka·

ma· pso·

sfinks sphynx

υ

a· si·

ofthegroups an·ge· i· dou· is kha dhe i pa e fi ksi kam la dza pen i re zo e o o i ro ga ba vi he gha to the ·tan was ·dha I saw ·dhyos same ·nas one (m) ·ma blood ·ra time ·la all ko ·lo leaf ·tera after ·ma step gha ·thos mistake ·ma stream ·pos site ·dha tyre ·o animal ma ·ri hand ·zi gas ·o I go ·la ball ·dhi vinegar la ro ·ma theme ·ki fireplace ·pe·dho land ·ma parcel ·no I lose ·de five ·ta cat ma mi ·bos forest la well water αυ ·dhi mark ·pi love li ·pa wardrobe bread mother a announcement , ευ

and ηυ

is generally ; ’.

753 LANGUAGE LANGUAGE How muchisit...?

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·na dho· ·na dho· ·hi ήθελα i si ba dhy· po ·the·la nami· ·su (inf) ·sas (pol) ·

LANGUAGE ••Converstaion&Essentials ·gho/ li di άλλα ro ·me·ra le al n· ·ni·o pou ·me i

no nikh· spe ·o ·ne to· natodho (excuse me,forgiveme) ·ne ... ·la o ·mi kre·

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. lonelyplanet.com . πίσω κάστρο μπροστά ακρόπολη αγορά κεντρική παραλία θάλασσα παλιά πλατεία νησί μουσείο απέναντι κοντά μακριά γέφυρα αρχαία ναός

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πλατεία I have ... I have asthma It hurts here. here. It hurts lonelyplanet.com diarrhoea diabetes e I’m ill. HEALTH epilepsy ·ho ... e·pi·lip· dhi· za·ha·ro·dhi·a· asth agia in ‘loch’.Theletter names fromantiquityhaveadoptedbyconventiontheletter Greek So PhaistosisusedratherthanFestos,andFolegandros Pholegandros.The for avenue( for eachEnglishword.Thus,theword‘baker’ineverydaylanguageis the mainstreamlanguage,butthislinguisticschizophreniameansthereareoftentwoGreekwords Katharevousa formwasnevermorethananartificialityandDimotikihasalwaysbeenspokenas language. Thepuristformiscalled by thefollowingtransliterations: things aregraduallyimproving.Theword‘Piraeus’,forexample,hasbeenvariouslyrepresented inconsistencies andpitfalls.TheGreeksthemselvesarenotveryconsistentinthisrespect,though The issueofcorrectlytransliteratingGreekintotheLatinalphabetisavexedone,fraughtwith TRANSLITERATION &VARIANT SPELLINGS:ANEXPLANATION a generalruleofthumbisthatclassicalnamesarespeltwith (eg PiraeusSt)youwillalsofind of Polytechniou.Bearinmindthatthe as closelypossible.Thus,wehaveHaralambosinsteadofCharalambosand Polytehniou instead throughout thisbook.Thismeansthat of renderingthe‘e’sound.Inmostinstancesinthisbook, has sixwaysofrenderingthevowelsound‘ee’,two‘o’and Thucydides insteadofThoukididis,MycenaeMykines. or peoplefromantiquity,wehavetriedtostickthemorefamiliarclassicalnames;so equivalents fortownnames,withonewellknownexception,Athens.Forancientsites,settlements Corfu, Zante/Zakynthos,andSantorini/Thira.InthisguideweusuallyprovidemodernGreek diglossy (theexistenceofbothanofficialandeverydaynameforaplace)isresponsibleKerkyra/ Athens, PatravsPatras,ThivaThebes,EviaEuboia–thelistgoesonandon! Toponymic Greek ‘e’sounds a Greek vowel combinationsthatmakethe‘ee’sound,is psomi sign willmoreoftenthannotsay a ·ma Problems intransliterationhaveparticularimplicationsforvowels,especiallygiventhatGreek A furthercomplicationistheissueofanglicisedvshellenisedformsplacenames:Athina Wherever referencetoastreetnameismade,wehaveomittedtheGreekword This hasbeencompoundedbythelinguisticminefieldofdiglossy,ortwoformsGreek As farasconsonantsareconcerned,theGreekletter ·ri·a (femalesaint)ratherthan si , butinchurchas

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αλλεργικός αντιβιωτικά φυστίκια μέλισσες

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li

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το

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·i·ne a· i i

ni ·ne e· ka dhos ·thya es o

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ni

ki i po a ti o ·ne af· ·a

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ti

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;

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.

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759 Glossary

For culinary terms see Food Glossary (p92 ), and also Cycladic civilisation – the civilisation (3000–1100 see Where to Eat & Drink (p85 ). BC) that emerged following the settlement of Phoenician colonists on the Cycladic islands Achaean civilisation – see Mycenaean civilisation cyclops (s), cyclopes (pl) – mythical one-eyed giants acropolis – citadel; highest point of an ancient city agia (f ), agios (m) – saint dark age – period (1200–800 BC) in which Greece was agora – commercial area of an ancient city; shopping under Dorian rule precinct in modern Greece delfini – dolphin; common name for a hydrofoil Archaic period – also known as the Middle Age (800– domatio (s), domatia (pl) – room, usually in a private 480 BC); period in which the city-states emerged from the home; cheap accommodation option ‘dark age’ and traded their way to wealth and power; the Dorians – Hellenic warriors who invaded Greece around city-states were unified by a Greek alphabet and common 1200 BC, demolishing the city-states and destroying the cultural pursuits, engendering a sense of national identity Mycenaean civilisation; heralded Greece’s ‘dark age’, when arhon – leading citizen of a town, often a wealthy the artistic and cultural advancements of the Mycenaean bourgeois merchant; chief magistrate and the Minoan civilisations were abandoned; the Dorians arhontika – 17th- and 18th-century AD mansions, which later developed into land-holding aristocrats which encour- belonged to arhons aged the resurgence of independent city-states led by askitiria – mini-chapels or hermitages; places of solitary wealthy aristocrats worship Doric – order of Greek architecture characterised by a column that has no base, a fluted shaft and a relatively baglamas – small stringed instrument like a mini plain capital, when compared with the flourishes evident bouzouki on Ionic and Corinthian capitals basilica – early Christian church bouleuterion – council house Ellada or Ellas – see Hellas bouzouki – long-necked, stringed lutelike instrument ELTA – Ellinika Tahydromia; the Greek post office associated with rembetika music organisation bouzoukia – any nightclub where the bouzouki is played EOT – Ellinikos Organismos Tourismou; main tourist office and low-grade blues songs are sung (has offices in most major towns), known abroad as GNTO Byzantine Empire – characterised by the merging of Hellenistic culture and Christianity and named after Filiki Eteria – Friendly Society; a group of Greeks in Byzantium, the city on the Bosphorus that became the exile; formed during Ottoman rule to organise an uprising capital of the Roman Empire; when the Roman Empire was against the Turks formally divided in AD 395, Rome went into decline and filoxenia – hospitality the eastern capital, renamed Constantinople, flourished; flokati – shaggy woollen rug produced in Central and the Byzantine Empire (324 BC–AD 1453) dissolved after Northern Greece the fall of Constantinople to the Turks in 1453 frourio – fortress; sometimes also referred to as a kastro caïque – small, sturdy fishing boat often used to carry Geometric period – period (1200–800 BC) charac- passengers terised by pottery decorated with geometric designs; Classical period – era in which the city-states reached sometimes referred to as Greece’s ‘dark age’ the height of their wealth and power after the defeat of GNTO – Greek National Tourist Organisation; see also EOT the Persians in the 5th century BC; the Classical period (480–323 BC) ended with the decline of the city-states as Hellas – the Greek name for Greece; also known as Ellada a result of the Peloponnesian Wars, and the expansionist or Ellas GLOSSARY aspirations of Philip II, King of Macedon (r 359–336 BC), Hellenistic period – prosperous, influential period and his son, Alexander the Great (r 336–323 BC) (323–146 BC) of Greek civilisation ushered in by Alexander Corinthian – order of Greek architecture recognisable the Great’s empire building and lasting until the Roman by columns with bell-shaped capitals that have sculpted, sacking of Corinth in 146 BC elaborate ornaments based on acanthus leaves; see also hora – main town (usually on an island) Doric and Ionic horio – village © Lonely Planet Publications 760 GLOSSARY

Ionic – order of Greek architecture characterised by a nisi – island column with truncated flutes and capitals with ornaments resembling scrolls; see also Doric and Corinthian odos – street OSE – Organismos Sidirodromon Ellados; Greek railways kastro – walled-in town; also describes a fort or castle organisation katholikon – principal church of a monastic complex OTE – Organismos Tilepikoinonion Ellados; Greece’s major kore – female statue of the Archaic period; see also telecommunications carrier kouros kouros – male statue of the Archaic period, character- Panagia – Mother of God or Virgin Mary; name fre- ised by a stiff body posture and enigmatic smile; see quently used for churches also kore panigyri (s), panigyria (p) – festival; the most com- KTEL – Koino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion; national bus mon festivals celebrate annual saints’ days cooperative; runs all long-distance bus services Pantokrator – painting or mosaic of Christ in the centre of the dome of a Byzantine church laïka – literally ‘popular (songs)’; mainstream songs that periptero (s), periptera (pl) – street kiosk have either been around for years or are of recent origin; plateia – square also referred to as urban folk music leoforos – avenue; commonly shortened to ‘leof’ rembetika – blues songs commonly associated with the limenarhio – port police underworld of the 1920s

meltemi – northeasterly wind that blows throughout Sarakatsani – Greek-speaking nomadic shepherd com- much of Greece during the summer munity from northern Greece Middle Age – see Archaic period spilia – cave Minoan civilisation – Bronze Age (3000–1100 BC) stele (s), stelae (pl) – upright stone (or pillar) deco- culture of Crete named after the mythical King Minos, and rated with inscriptions or figures characterised by pottery and metalwork of great beauty stoa – long colonnaded building, usually in an agora; used and artisanship as a meeting place and shelter in ancient Greece moni – monastery or convent Mycenaean civilisation – the first great civilisation tholos – Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive (1900–1100 BC) of the Greek mainland, characterised by powerful independent city-states ruled by kings; also Vlach – traditional, seminomadic shepherds from North- known as the Achaean civilisation ern Greece who speak a Latin-based dialect

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