Araid, Loch ,

2 House Sites and Services

Planning Refs. 10/02676/FUL and 10/02678/FUL

Archaeological Investigation

Catherine Dagg

For

Mrs Irene Macpherson The Shieling Townhead of Auchengillan Blanefield G63 9AU

Araid, Torridon, Wester Ross: 2 House Sites and Services Planning refs 10/02676/FUL and 10/02678/FUL Archaeological Investigation

1.0 Background

Two new dwellings are proposed at the remote location of Araid, a small neck of land without road access south of on in the parish of , centred on NG 793 587. The development includes the following elements:

 Two new dwellings, both with septic tank and soakaway and separate surface water soakaway, one on the north and one on the south side of the neck of land west of Meall na h- Araid  Access road linking the dwellings with the north and south shorelines  Lochan created to provide source for potable water, on the hill east of the houses  Electric supply to pump in lochan (presumed buried) and piped water to treatment plant  Water treatment plant and generator within existing stone bothy, to be re-roofed  Clean water storage tank on the hill west of the houses  Water supply from storage tank to houses, and from treatment plant to storage tank, both presumed buried

Planning consent for the developments has been granted, with the following condition:

(4.) No development shall take place until a programme of archaeological work for the preservation and recording of any archaeological features affected (altered, damaged or destroyed) by the proposed development has been submitted to and approved in writing by the Planning Authority Information submitted shall be in accordance with the Council's Specification for Field Surveys and shall include a timetable for investigation. All arrangements thereby approved shall be implemented by the developer at his expense in accordance with the approved timetable for investigation. Thereafter the development shall be undertaken in accordance with the approved programme unless the prior written approval of the Planning Authority is granted for any variation,

Reason: In order to preserve the archaeological and historic interest of the site. The application site lies within a crofting township which has been abandoned since the 1960s. The site of the township most likely has a long settlement history and there is potential for earlier remains, which predate the township.

The objectives of the present investigation are:

 To complete an archaeological field survey of the application area to identify and record the character and full extent of the township and any other archaeological features  To record any associated oral histories of the township, held by the applicant and any other local residents  To record, to professional standards, any features and objects of archaeological or historical importance that will be damaged, altered, destroyed or otherwise impacted by this development, while minimising any delays or disruption to the development project

Fig. 1. Plan of development area showing individual features of project, superimposed on modern Ordnance Survey mapping of township features. House site 2 is now located further east on open ground, while the linking road is also further east, running to the east of the croft buildings and boundary dykes.

2.0 Historical Background

2.1 Township History

The name Araid, or Arrat or Araird, is from the Gaelic air aird, the fore-headland, and as a place name refers primarily to the headland to the west. Although modern mapping describes the place as ‘old shielings’, all the archaeological and documentary evidence is that this has been a permanently settled small township or farmstead, probably through most of the post-mediaeval period.

Araid is in the unusual position of being, together with Port Lair and Upper Diabaig, located within the parish of Applecross but on the estate of Gairloch. The estate in the early 19th century, like many west coast estates, was overcrowded and its tenants impoverished and subject to famines. Sir Francis Mackenzie refused to evict any tenants and attempted to educate them in better living and farming, writing in 1838 Hints for the Use of Highland tenants and Cottagers, by a proprietor. After his death in 1843 his brother, Dr John Mackenzie, embarked on a programme of reorganisation of the estate which was unique in the Highlands. His first move was to have every township surveyed by Mr Campbell Smith, a well-known land surveyor. He believed that ‘many hundreds of acres of fine soil, now lying waste, might be profitably reclaimed and made available to the wants of the cottar population, by the application of labour, under proper direction and ordinary management.

Without access to early estate rentals, it is impossible to determine who were the tenants at Araid before the 1846 improvements. However, it is most likely that the Macdonald were among the original tenants, as one John MacDonald was born at Araid in 1843. It is likely that there was only one household at this date. The 1841 census return for ‘Airaird’ gives one household, headed by Kenneth Macpherson with the following members:

Kenneth Macpherson aged 80 agricultural labourer John Macpherson, aged 35 Catherine Matheson, aged 70 Leny Maclean, aged 6 Murdoch Macdonald aged 35 Duncan Campbell aged 18, foxhunter Flory Macpherson aged 25

Unfortunately the 1841 census gives very little information on familial relationships, places of birth or occupations. None of these persons could be traced with any certainty on the 1851 census.

1846 was the year that most tenants’ leases were due to expire, and new leases of 7 to 10 years were granted, on the understanding that the new tenants would build houses on their holdings . Of the 364 small tenants on Gairloch estate in 1843, 74% were allocated crofts on the farm where they were already residing and 26%, or 94 families, moved to crofts elsewhere. It is, therefore, very likely that new tenants arrived at Araid in 1846. Catherine Mackenzie of Sand was born at Loch an Draing near Inverasdale in 1884. This was the home of her grandparents, but her own parents lived at Araid and this is where she spent her childhood. This family are the most likely new tenants in 1846.

The tenants on new holdings were required to build a house on the holding, replacing the old system of houses clustered together. The tenants were also expected to drain their land and plant the new crops such as clover and turnips, but the enforcement of this was mostly unsuccessful.

The MacDonalds are recorded as having left Araid around 1870. The 1868-9 valuation roll, the earliest available, shows Angus and Donald Mackenzie renting both crofts, at a combined rent of £11 and on a 12 year lease. This suggests they are two brothers from the same family. The 1881 census return has:  Angus Mackenzie, b. 1806, crofter of 4 acres, with wife Catherine and children Duncan, b. 1841, and Betsy, b. 1847  Donald Mackenzie,b. 1814, fisherman and crofter of 4 acres, with wife Maggy, b. 1828 and children John, Bella, Catherine, Maggy and Alexander

Croft 1

Angus Mackenzie was succeeded in the 1890s by his son Duncan, who himself probably died between 1910 and 1916. William Rankin is the tenant in 1916. William Rankin appears elsewhere in census returns in 1881, 1891 and 1901. He appears to have come originally from Kilmonivaig in -shire and lived with his uncle Robert, a gamekeeper for Torridon estate. His father Peter was also a gamekeeper. William worked as gardener at Torridon house, but by 1901 is listed as estate manager. He married in the 1890s, a local woman named Isabella, and in 1901 they had one son, Duncan. When they moved to Araid, William would have been already in his 60s and presumably retired from his job on Torridon estate. It is interesting that they moved to the adjoining Gairloch estate and to such a remote location. Duncan Rankin appears not to have survived or been present to take over the croft from his father when he died in the 1920s. His widow, Bella Rankin, continues to live at Araid until the early 1950s, by which time she would have been in her 90s.

Croft 2

Donald Mackenzie died in the 1880s and although his widow Margaret continued as the croft tenant, she appears to have moved away. The tenancy is taken over by Finlay Macrae between 1901 and 1909. This is probably the Finlay Macrae recorded on the 1901 census as fisherman and crofter, with a wife Margaret, son Alexander, b. 1893 and daughter Margaret, b. 1897. Alexander succeeded his father on croft 2 in the 1920s and took over the tenancy of croft 1 in the 1950s presumably on the death of Bella Rankin.

After the brothers take separate crofts in the late 1870s, the rents are £6 and £5, with croft 1, the southern, being slightly more valuable. But from the 1880s, possibly after the passing of the Crofting Act, the rents are both set at £4 10s and stay at this until the 1950s, when Alex. Macrae takes on croft 1 and its rent drops to £4.

2.2 Cartographic Evidence

 Roy’s Military Survey 1750s This shows no settlement or cultivation at Araid, although this should not be taken to indicate depopulation, as Roy’s map is known to be incomplete.

 John Thomson’s Atlas, surveyed 1820s. This map shows a settlement at Araid, but names it Deebeg. Diabaig is also shown, in its correct location and Loch Diabaig is named as Loch Yeben. This appears to be a common cartographic error, repeated on most maps through the 18th and 19th centuries.

 Campbell Smith’s Atlas of the Townships of Gairloch 1848. The survey map of Araid (XVIII Arrat ) shows both the areas under cultivation in 1844 and the proposed new croft holdings. The old arable ground consists of several irregularly shaped plots amounting, on croft 1 (south) to 3 acres, 3 roods and 36 poles and on croft 2 (north) to 4 acres, 2 roods and 3 poles. The extent of pasture on each croft is on croft 1, 5 acres 1 rood and 18 poles, and on croft 2, 9 acres, 3 roods and 26 poles. Seven buildings in total are shown on this map, with the main group of 4 buildings within croft 2, one small structure at the north end of croft 1 and two small buildings on the hill outwith the croft boundary.

Fig.2 Campbell Smith’s Atlas 1848

 Ordnance Survey 1st edition sheet LXXX, surveyed 1875, published 1881. This shows a greater area of improved ground than the 1843 map. The number of buildings has increased to eight roofed and two unroofed. Of the two unroofed buildings, one is on the shore to the north, the other is to the west of croft 1. A track leads from the east to the buildings of croft 2

Fig.3 Ordnance Survey 1st edition surveyed 1875  Ordnance Survey 2nd edition sheet LXXX revised 1902 published 1905. This shows the addition of two new buildings, one on the hill to the west of the croft house no. 1 and one unroofed structure on the shore to the north adjacent to the pre-existing one here. The small roofless structure on the hill south of this is no longer portrayed, otherwise all the buildings are the same as in An incomplete section of fence defines the south east boundary of the crofts  Land Court plan of crofts 1922. This is an overlay on the 1848 estate plan, but it is unclear what issue was being debated. The dotted line dividing croft 2 (B-C) suggests some form of land division was being proposed. There is no change in rents at this date, so it is unlikely this was a dispute over rents.

Fig. 4Ordnance Survey 2nd edition surveyed 1901 Fig.5 Land Court map, 1922

2.3 Herring and other Seasonal Fishing

Although the herring fishing was a major part of the west coast economy, there is very little documentary evidence for the people, the boats and the daily life of the trade. In the 1840s boats were congregating in Loch Torridon from Ireland, the Clyde, Caithness and Stornoway. Any suitable anchorage such as Araid would have allowed crews to come ashore and set up temporary camps, although the need for salt and barrels and loading the catch onto larger ships would have meant the actual processing of fish was more easily carried out at the curing stations. The harbour wall on the north side of Araid would have allowed ships to tie up, but there is no evidence for any early curing station here. During the height of the herring fishing, in the 1780s, Ardmore on the south side of Loch Torridon was selected as the best location for a curing station, leaving Araid as merely one of the several good anchoring places around the loch.

Cod and ling fishing was also carried out in Gairloch on a large scale. This was carried out until 1877 with baited long lines and annually ran from February to April, so fishing was compatible with the seasonal tasks of crafting. Most crofters were therefore involved in the cod fishing after an initial reluctance. In the 1840s fishing boats from east coast harbours such as Portknockie in Banff were both fishing in the waters of Gairloch and teaching the locals how to fish, and the waste after processing provided a useful manure for the fields. The crofters at Araid would certainly have been fishermen for part of the year

3.0 Archaeological Background

The following archaeological sites are recorded on the Highland Historic Environment Record (HER)

Township, corn-drying kiln at NG 79300 58700 HER ref. MHG21424 A township comprising eight roofed, three unroofed buildings, two enclosures and some field walls is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Ross-shire 1881, sheet lxxx). Two roofed, six unroofed buildings, three enclosures, two sheepfolds and some field walls are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10560 map (1969).Information from RCAHMS (SAH) 23 April 1996

Corn-drying kiln at NG 792 587 Text/Publication/Article: Macdonald, M. 1995. 'Loch Torridon (Applecross parish), corn-drying kilns', Discovery and Excavation in 1995, p.42. Discovery and Excavation in Scotland. 42. 42; Fig 15.

Loch Diabeg 2 Rock shelter, shovel pitted at NG 7946 5864 HER ref. MHG46049 Recorded between May and September 2002 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project and the Sea Loch Survey. K Hardy and C Wickham-Jones 2002, Sponsors: HS, Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, British Academy

Araid Raised beach, shovel pitted, at NG 7950 5890 HER ref. MHG46050 Recorded between May and September 2002 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project and the Sea Loch Survey. K Hardy and C Wickham-Jones 2002 Sponsors: HS, Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, British Academy

Loch Diabeg Boulder shelter, shovel pitted at NG 7974 5887 HER ref.MHG46051 Recorded between May and September 2002 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project and the Sea Loch Survey. K Hardy and C Wickham-Jones 2002.Sponsors: HS, Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, British Academy

These last three sites were recorded during the Scotland’s First Settlers Project in 2002, which carried out survey and test excavation of possible Mesolithic sites on the mainland and islands around Skye and Applecross

3.0 Site Description

The croft lands of Araid occupy a saddle of level ground, 100m to 200m wide and about 350m in length. The ground rises steeply to the NW and SE and drops steeply to the shore to NE and SW. The underlying geology is gneiss, preventing good drainage and build up of soils. The central area of the saddle is peaty and wet, and standing water marks an area of peat extraction dating to the early 20th century. The ground cover is grass and bracken, with heather colonising the rising ground. Mature trees are scattered on the SE-facing slope and among the township ruins and there is a small fenced plantation at the SW end of the saddle, but there are now no survivors of the gean trees which were common 50 years ago. Running water is present, notably in an artificial ditch draining south and a small natural stream draining north. These are probably both draining ground water as no springs were noted.

4.0 Township Remains.

These were recorded during a survey carried out on 26.3.12 in sunny weather conditions. Locations were recorded using GPS with sub-metre accuracy.

4.1 Observations

No archaeological features which could be described as only associated with shielings were noted. Some structures, notably small enclosures, could be associated with shielings, but could equally be a part of the pre-crofting township. Apart from the harbour wall on Loch Diabaig side, no structures could be definitely associated with seasonal fishing, but the abandoned house on croft 1 did appear to have had re-occupation consistent with fishing crews. There is, however, the possibility that the kiln building, initially identified as a corn kiln, was instead used for the production of salt for the preservation of fish.

4.2 Gazetteer of Sites

1. South port at NG 79242 58583 Broad L-shaped cleared port on the east end of the south bay. North of the port, a row of set large boulders curves round to NG 79256 58607 and to the west is a possible second port, an indistinct cleared strip running SW straight down the shore from NG 79225 58608

2. Enclosure at NG 79274 58838 A sub-circular drystone rubble enclosure attached to a N-S aligned rock face. It has a broad entrance to the north and a row of stones extend north from the entrance for 5m, as if to channel livestock into the enclosure. The level platform on which the enclosure stands is noticeably colonised by grasses and bracken, probably indicative of manuring by livestock.

3. Enclosure at NG 79149 58670 An irregularly shaped enclosure of rough rubble walling. Two parallel walls extend approximately 5m from a rock face, then open out to an oval area

4. Kiln at NG 79101 58668 A platform or stackyard, measuring 5mx5m and enclosed by a slight rubble bank. NW of this is a small structure or kiln barn measuring 6.5m by 5m and aligned NW-SE. The entrance is in the NE wall and the kiln bowl is set against the SE wall, with an offset flue opening. This is built against a rock face within rough ground some distance from the improved fields and township buildings. This situation does not appear to be to improve the exposure to wind, as the site is sheltered by the rock face. Therefore, although this is recorded as a corn-drying kiln (MacDonald 1995) there is the possibility that it is associated with salt production. A similar kiln, some distance from settlement remains, was identified by the North of Scotland Archaeological Society at the fishing station of Ardmore on the south side of Loch Torridon

5. Building (site of) at NG 7906 5863 A building is recorded at this location on the 1st, but not the 2nd edition OS map. It is shown as unroofed, aligned NNE-SSW and located just west of the area of improved ground. Nothing was noted during the field survey, although vegetation cover here is quite dense. This is some distance from any proposed development.

6. Building, dwelling house at NG 79207 58684 Rubble walling of a building aligned NNE-SSW and measuring 20m in length, with an extension on the north gable. The walling stands to a height of 1m with an almost complete south gable, and is composed of mixed stones, including gneiss and sandstone with one prominent red sandstone slab built into the northern end of the east elevation. A door is set north of centre of the east elevation and a possible small window opening east of centre in the south gable. There are no internal partitions but three possible cruck frame grooves are spaced along the inner face of the west elevation. Modifications to the interior are suggestive of re- use of the building by seasonal fishermen, with stone slabs set as crude furniture at the south end, and a raised cobble sleeping platform at the north end. Similar features have been noted in early 20th century lobster fishers’ bothies on the Shiant islands.

7. Building, stable at NG 79162 58759 This corresponds to a building recorded on the 2nd edition, but not the 1st edition OS map. Almost complete walling of a two-compartmented building, aligned NE-SW. The stonework is entirely gneiss. The two compartments are of equal size and separated by a rubble partition; each has a central doorway in the SE-facing elevation. A broad constructed track leads NE down the slope to behind the croft house, and in front of the building is an irregular-shaped depression which may be artificial. History notes (see appendix 1) indicate the roof was removed for firewood in the 1950s

8. Building (possible) at NG 79250 58245 Low and indistinct banks may be the remains of a demolished building, behind and on the far side of a small stream from the byre, but within the enclosure. The building is aligned NW-SE and is divided into two compartments. There is no indication of a building here on any historic mapping

9. Building, byre at NG 79211 58743 Rough rubble walling, of both gneiss and sandstone, of a single-compartment building aligned NNE-SSW. There is one broad doorway centrally placed in the SE-facing elevation, and what appear to be cruck frame grooves in the inner face of the NW elevation. This is on the same alignment as the croft house and is not indicated as a separate building on the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps. The broad doorway suggests access for a milk cow, but a vertical join in the stonework to the south of the doorway indicates modification, possibly a widening of an original dwelling doorway.

10. Building, croft house at NG 79218 58756 Well-built single-storey croft house. The walling is sandstone with lime mortar and shaped blocks and slabs form the quoins and door and window surrounds and lintels. There are fireplaces in each gable end, a doorway flanked by two windows in the SE elevation and a central window in the NW elevation, now infilled with loose rubble. Although this building was inhabited until 1956, there is no trace of roofing material, window or door frames or interior timber lining

11. Building at NG 79276 58844 This building is shown as roofed on the 1st, and unroofed on the 2nd edition OS maps. It is rough rubble, with no obvious entrance and aligned NE-SW. It measures 11.5m by 6m.

12. Building at NG 79297 58677 A rectangular structure, aligned NE-SW with its SW end built onto a rock face. This is built of rough rubble and has an entranceway at the NE end of the SE elevation. The structure is located east of the open ground, in a sheltered but prominent location on a grassy terrace and adjacent to a stand of trees, and is of unknown function and date.

13. Building, byre at NG 79292 58889 Rough rubble walls, probably standing to full height, of a rectangular building aligned NE- SW with a doorway set right of centre in the SE elevation. This appears to correspond to one of the buildings recorded on the estate plan of 1848. There is no indication that this was ever a larger building so was probably built as a barn or byre, with the enclosed area to the east as a stackyard.

14. Building, croft house at NG 79312 58920 This building, croft house no2, is not in as good condition as croft house 1, with collapsed walling adjacent to the doorway, but is also carefully constructed with lime mortared walling including shaped sandstone blocks and slabs. It is single storey, aligned ENE-WSW, with a central doorway flanked by windows in the SE elevation, one central window in the NW elevation and a small window on the upper level in the SW gable end, which still contains wooden safe lintels. There is a fireplace in the SW gable wall, with a large sandstone lintel. Although this has the typical dimensions of a crofthouse, a break in the stonework between the doorway and the window opening to its right suggests modification, possibly of an earlier building. There is a building at this location on the 1848 estate map, but this would not have been to this design. Attached to the NE end of the house is an extension, byre, of slightly rougher construction, with one doorway centrally placed in the SE elevation

15. Building, former long house at NG 79313 58923 The square structure behind the croft house is a modification of a former long building of which the standing remains appear to be an outshot. The footings of the original building are visible as low grassy banks, aligned ENE-WSW, parallel with the croft house, with a small extension onto the ENE gable end. This would appear to correspond to one of the buildings recorded on the 1848 estate map. Although this is not shown as a long building, it is possible that by 1848 this was already redundant or modified. The square structure built onto the outshot is likely to have been a small henhouse or dog house used during the crofting period

16. Possible building footings at NG 79355 58940 North east of the croft house is a terrace of improved ground, bounded by a slight rubble bank. Below this, between the terrace edge and the more substantial rubble dyke, are slight banks and rubble piles which are likely to be building remains. The 1848 estate map shows one building, but the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps two in this approximate location, although the more south western of the two may be a surviving section of the long building, site 15. The location, between the terrace and the dyke, is more logical for buildings than using the cultivable ground of the terrace, and these banks would account for the buildings still in use in the late 19th century.

17. Enclosure at NG 79365 58947 A rough enclosure, approximately square, is built to the SE of the dyke, making use of the large boulders

18. Enclosure at NG 79383 58995 A roughly oval enclosure, as recorded on the 1848 estate map and modern mapping but not on the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps. This appears to be an enclosure and building attached to the NE end, the whole measuring 20m in length and 7m in width. A short section of rubble walling extends west up the slope

19. Building, store at NG 79426 58989 This structure is recorded on the 1st edition OS map and is located immediately to the west of the port, at the south end of the terrace formed by the harbour wall. It is rectangular, with rough rubble walling standing to full height, and an entrance centrally placed in the NE elevation. A cleared path runs down from this to the port.

20. Building, store at NG 79430 59001 This structure is also recorded on the 1st edition OS map, north of site 19. It is also rectangular, with rough rubble walling standing to full height, but the absence of a north wall provides a broad entrance. These two structures, which pre-date 1875, may have been originally stores for nets and sails

21. North port, harbour wall at NG 79448 58988 Cleared strip extending NE , flanked by retaining walls of large boulders which also function, particularly to the west, as a low jetty. North of this, extending north to NG 79441 59037 is a substantial constructed harbour wall retaining a levelled terrace or walkway. This is a major construction, with the function of allowing fairly large boats to come aside, and must be associated with the period of commercial herring fishing. The port, but not the harbour wall, is recorded on the 1848 estate map

22. Enclosure at NG 79410 58742 Rough rubble walling enclose a semicircular area, attached to a rock face on the east side of the open ground. There is no apparent opening

23. Pre-crofting dykes, field systems The field systems associated with the pre-crofting settlement appear to be recorded fairly accurately on the 1848 estate map, as irregular patches of improved ground almost entirely east of the buildings, but this does not record the enclosed areas on the hillside to the west, all of which lie outside the boundaries of the croft in-bye. The east head dyke is a typical feature of pre-crofting settlements, as are the piles of field clearance stones noted at the edges of the cultivated areas. These are notably along the edge of the terrace above the south bay, at NG 79129 58652, adjacent to the steeply rising ground to the east, for example at at NG 79286 58699 and scattered over the gently rising ground in the north east of the open ground, for example at NG 79406 58838.

24. Crofting dykes, field systems The division of the area into two separate holdings in 1848 necessitated boundary dykes, notably the two parallel straight dykes dividing the area and other straight dyke lines. Parallel lines, lynchets or drains, running NW-SE on the good arable ground, date to 19th-20th century farming methods

Fig. 6 Location of individual sites numbered in gazetteer

4.3 Summary of sites

Of the 24 individual sites listed above, a rough chronological order can be proposed, based on comparison with historical mapping and on architectural style:

 Sites which pre-date 1848: These sites are either recorded as standing buildings on the 1848 estate map or are minor features consistent with post-mediaeval, pre-crofting activity

Sites 2,3,4,11,12,13,15,16,22, 23

 Sites which were built or modified between 1848 and 1875, after the creation of two crofts:

Sites 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 24

 Sites which were built or modified after 1875

Sites 10, 14

 Sites which may be associated with 19th century commercial fishing

Sites 1, 19, 20, 21

Fig 6. Summary of Sites

5.0 Potential Impacts

House sites

The two house sites are located on former ploughed ground, which is unlikely to contain any buried archaeological features or deposits. No features are indicated at these locations on any historical mapping.

Associated Works

The proposed lochan no.4. is in an area of no archaeological interest, while the electric supply to pump, no.8, septic tanks nos.5 and surface water soakaways, nos 10, clean water storage tank, no. 7 with water supply pipes, nos.9, will only break through short sections of dykes.

Access Road

The access road, as presently planned, runs over the open ground, replacing the original plan to run behind the standing buildings, which would have had the effect of damaging the site of the possible building footings, 8, the enclosure behind building 11, the enclosure in front of building 13 and the site of possible building footings, site 16. The new proposed route will remove short sections of the dykes which run SE from the buildings, forming the boundary between the two croft holdings, and dykes east of the buildings which appear to be recorded on the 1848 estate map. The greater part of all of these dykes will survive undamaged and the impact on the archaeological record of Araid will be minimal.

Catherine Dagg 2, Ruigh’Riabhach Scoraig Peninsula Dundonnell Wester Ross IV23 2RE Tel: 01854 633 337 e-mail [email protected] 6.7.12

I would like to thank Neil and Hilary MacLeod for their help in carrying out this evaluation, and for supplying family history notes (Appendix 1)

Appendix 1. Historical Notes supplied by Hilary MacLeod (nee Macpherson)

In 1878 the Araid crofts were tenanted by Angus and Donald MacKenzie. They made their living by other occupations. Angus held Croft 1 on the southern part of the peninsula and Donald lived on the north facing Croft 2. Both were known for their home distilled whisky. Donald was a successful butcher and owned a pony and cart allowing him to deliver to locals and some of the hotels such as . Travelling freely as a butcher meant the whisky could be sold discreetly without attracting the Excise men. The widow of Angus, Margaret, took over Croft 1 in 1888 and remained there until 1902 when Donald moved to Croft 1.

When Donald MacKenzie moved to Croft 1in 1902, Findlay MacRae (from Melvaig?) took on Croft 2.

Donald MacKenzie left Araid in 1914 and moved to Croft 7 in Diabaig. He had an adopted son, Duncan who went on to work on the roads. To this day the steep brae going past Croft 7’s door is known as the Butcher’s Brae.

William Rankin took over Croft 1 in April 1915. William came to live on Araid on retirement. He had been the estate manager for the Torridon Estate, which belonged to the Lovelace family. In 1924 my grandfather John Macpherson was appointed by the Land Courts to oversee the implementation of the settlement of the dispute between Rankin and MacRae concerning rights of way and rights to water. William Rankin was married to a considerably younger woman who came from Diabaig. It is thought that she was about twenty years his junior. In 1919 Mrs Rankin was widowed. She remained on the croft with her two children Donald and Mary. Mary was blind from a very young age. While Mary was still of school age she received visits from two teachers from the Blind School of Edinburgh over several summers. These once yearly teaching visits lasted two weeks. My grandparents made available a room for the teachers, at their home, Cadhanahearba in Diabaig from where they set off to Araid everyday. Mary was said to be a bright child but the visits stopped when she ceased to be of school age. Donald fought in WW2. In 1947 after his return he was suddenly struck by the family’s congenital blindness while out on the hill, stalking with Lord Lovelace. He was taken to the Eye Infirmary in Inverness by Lovelace. The origin of the congenital blindness is uncertain but it may have been from the paternal line. He did not return to the croft. Mary and her mother remained on the croft until mid 1956. During the final years of their tenancy the two women dismantled the roofs of the barn, byre and stable for firewood. On leaving Araid they moved to a house in Torridon. The croft was taken on by Alec MacRae.

Findlay MacRae, the Foreman for the construction of the road to Diabaig, had three children, Alexander (Alec), Peggy and Flora.The MacRae children walked to school in Diabaig everyday barefoot. Even during snowfall they came to school but were so cold that the schoolmistress would not start class until she had warmed their feet by the stove. When Findlay (the father) died in 1919 his son Alec took over Croft 2. While Findlay worked on the roads the family just managed but after his death, the MacRaes had no income. They struggled badly. Alec would work on the croft wearing clothing made from old sacking but rushed into change into his Sunday suit if he spotted anyone walking across the hill. In 1963 Alec died of kidney failure. Even living in such straightened circumstances they remained extremely hospitable and generous. They refused to visit without taking a gift of fresh butter or milk even if it meant they had none for themselves.

When Flora and Peggy moved to the Diabaig Schoolhouse in the early 60’s, my father organised that their five cows had the free use of my grandfather’s byre. My father also arranged with his eldest brother that the sisters could graze their animals on the Macpherson croft as no croft was attached to the Schoolhouse. The sisters continued to keep some sheep on the Araid crofts and cut a little hay there until the start of the 70’s, supplemented by that cut for them by my father. As a child I was always in and out of their house when I was in the village. Flora the younger sister was the dominant of the two and extremely proud. She would never ask for help even if they desperately needed it. My father would use my frequent forays to their home as an excuse to come and find me and check discreetly what things needed repair or changing. Flora and Peggy were happy to play along with unobtrusive help. Both women would access Araid by rowing boat accompanied by their dogs which were infamous for sitting by and watching the two sisters round up the sheep themselves.

In 1973 Peggy and Flora, who were then in their eighties, passed the crofts to my father. They knew he had stayed behind as a young man, giving up his university place, to care for his mother, as her health deteriorated, even though he was the second youngest of the five brothers. As the Macpherson croft naturally passed to his oldest brother, Flora and Peggy wished that my father remain linked with the village by taking on their crofts. My father planned to build on Croft 2. The first stage was to replace the township boundary fence. He died before completing this. My mother Irene Macpherson had it completed by Duncan MacLennan of croft 15 Diabaig. The fence was completed in 1976.

Appendix 2. extracts from The Free Presbyterian and Monthly Record

Catherine Mackenzie 1947 Obituary

Mrs. MacKenzie was born at Loch-a-Druing about sixty-three years ago, This place is now without inhabitants, and is situated inland between Inverasdale and the extreme west of the parish of Gairloch. It was the home of 'her grandparents. Her own home was in Arrat, a little hamlet on the shores of Loch Torridon . Here her parents resided. And here she was brought up under strict parental and scriptural control, and besides had the great privilege of being under the ministry of the eminently pious Rev. Donald Macdonald of ..When she was in her teens, she went to Laide to serve with an uncle, a brother of her mother. Here she was married to Alexander Mackenzie, merchant at Sand, when she was about eighteen years of age.

John Macdonald 1919 Obituary

POST OFFICE, OPINAN, GAIRLOCH. This man was called to his eternal rest on 28th March, I9I9.He was born at Arrat, near Diabaig, Torridon, on I(?)th November 1843; and on 31st March, 1919, was buried in Gairloch churchyard. With his parents, about the year 1870, he removed from Arrat to Opinan, where he resided till his death

Appendix 3. Bibliography

Caird JB 1994 The Making of the Gairloch Crofting Landscape in Baldwin ed. Peoples and Settlement in North-West Ross Mackenzie J, ed. Shaw CB 1988 Pigeon Holes of Memory Watson WJ 1904 Place-Names of

Appendix 4 Photographic Archive (digital)

Photo no. Site no. Description Viewpoint 1 General view of Araid across Loch Diabaig. Settlement area From NW occupies the low ground, centre 2 General view of Araid. Buildings are out of sight to right of From NW level area, which is former cultivation. Port and harbour wall are below trees on right 3 6, 2, 12 Long building, west elevation and surviving south gable. In From W the background, against a rockface behind the gable, is site 2, enclosure and in the upper left, below the trees, is site 12 4 6 Long building, south gable end with small window opening From S right of centre 5 6 Long building, south gable and east elevation From SE 6 6 North end of east elevation, with prominent rectangular From E shaped sandstone block 7 6 Interior face of south gable end with small window From N opening. On ground, slabs set as rough furniture post- abandonment of building as dwelling, suggesting seasonal re-occupation 8 6 Interior view to north part of building with raised cobble From S sleeping platform suggestive of seasonal re-occupation 9 6 Inner face of west elevation, with probable cruck frame From NE grooves 10 6 View from above of raised cobble platform in north part of From above building 11 6 Extension on north end of building, thick north wall with From W rubble core 12 6 View of building from enclosures to west From WNW 13 7 Building, stable: west elevation and south doorway From SSE 14 7 Stable: location on hill with croft house and byre behind From WNW 15 7 Stable: isolated location on hill slope From S 16 7 Stable, SE elevation with two doorways From E 17 9 Barn or byre, with broad doorway in SE elevation, and From SE cruck frame groove visible through doorway in NW elevation. To left of doorway, vertical join in stonework is indicative of modification 18 9, 10 SW elevation of byre, left, and croft house. Note raising of From S roof height of croft house with small stones set above original large triangular skew stones, probably to replace original turf roof with corrugated sheeting in late 19th century 19 9 SW elevation of byre, showing rough stonework in From SW comparison with croft house behind 20 10 Croft house, SE elevation From SE 21 9, 10 Byre, left and croft house, SE elevations, with stable, 7, From SE behind on left 22 10 Croft house in its setting, with view to Loch Shieldaig From N 23 10 Detail of stonework in north gable, showing shaped From N sandstone quoins, attention to coursing and lime mortar 24 10 SE elevation, north window, with shaped sandstone blocks From SE 25 10 Doorway in SE elevation and window in NW elevation From SE 26 10 SE elevation, south window From SE 27 10 SE elevation From SE 28 10 Interior, fireplace in NE elevation From SW 29 10 Interior, fireplace in SW elevation From NE 30 10 Interior, detail of stonework north of window in NW From SE elevation, showing worked stone and lime mortar 31 10 Detail of stonework on exterior of NE gable From NE 32 11 Rough rubble walling of rectangular building to right of From NW double row of walls marking boundary between crofts 33 11 Building, with attached enclosure in foreground and double From W walls behind 34 12 Building set on terrace to east of open ground, south gable From W end is formed by rock face 35 13, 14 Croft house and byre with remains of buildings behind to From SE right 36 13, 14 Byre, interior, with croft house behind From SW 37 13 Byre, showing rough rubble walling From S 38 13 Byre, SW end and interior From SW 39 14 Croft house, SE elevation: north window opening and, on From SE left, vertical join in stonework indicating modification 40 14 SE elevation, doorway and collapsed section with vertical From SE join on right indicating modification. Left side of doorway also appears modified. In background, central window in NW elevation 41 14 SE elevation, south window and quoins of SW gable From SE 42 14 SW gable end interior: fireplace and window to upper level From E 43 14 NW elevation, interior, detail of stonework showing From SE modification, possible infilling of cruck frame groove in lower courses, with rebuild or added height above 44 14 SW gable, fireplace From NE 45 14 SW gable, window opening with wooden safe lintels From NE 46 14 Exterior view of croft house From S 47 14 Byre extension to croft house From ENE 48 15 Small square structure, possible former henhouse, originally From N outshot to long building, indistinct footings of which are between this and croft house byre 49 15 Small square structure with footings of long building From NNW behind 50 18 Enclosure, possible infilled entrance in SW end From SW 51 18 Enclosure, with possible attached building under fallen tree From NW on left 52 19 Store at top of port, doorway in SE elevation From E 53 19 Store building and terrace running along top of harbour wall From S on right 54 20 Store building halfway up terrace From N 55 21 Harbour wall of rough rubble to north of port From S 56 21 Harbour wall From E 57 21 Harbour wall From N 58 21 Terrace, laid rubble surface running along behind top of From S harbour wall 59 21 Harbour wall with cleared terrace behind on right. Port is on From N far left 60 21 Port at south end of harbour wall From SW 61 21 Port. Harbour wall is below bank on left From W 62 22 Enclosure, interpreted as pen for livestock, built against From W rock face to east of open ground, north of the port 63 22 View across open ground to enclosure, right of centre above From WSW fence posts 64 23, 24 Dykes, field systems. Straight rubble dykes are probably From NW croft boundaries. Central meandering dyke runs back, SE, to head dyke. Field clearance piles occupy the rising ground to right of this 65 24 Area of cultivated ground SE of buildings, with lines From N marking regularly spaced lynchets or drains 66 23 Substantial rubble dyke marking west boundary of From S cultivated ground as recorded on 1848 estate map, but east of enclosures on west hill slope 67 23 Enclosure on hill slope west of south croft house group From S 68 23 Field clearance pile built onto bank running south from From S building 6 69 24 Cultivation ditch or lynchet From SE 70 24 Double dyke running SE from building 11; probable From SE boundary between crofts, with gap to allow livestock to cross in-bye land to gain access to hill grazings 71 24 Double dyke boundary between croft holdings From E 72 23, 24 General view over former arable ground and dykes east of From NW main building group 73 26 March 2012