final mile 46 geared up 50 photo contest 52

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Southern Italy revealed The climber’s island: Mallorca A lake Champlain adventure The Netherlands by bike and barge beware the back "We had a truly memorable trip...we had high expectations and Randonnee exceeded them. is published nine times each year2 by :2012 contents I would have no hesitation in the Adventure Cycling Association, recommending Randonnee a nonprofit service organization forFebruary 2012 · Volume 39 Number 1 · www.adventurecycling.org Tours to friends." recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. P. Hardy – Provence addresses and includes a subscrip- Adventure 10 days cycling tion to Adventure Cyclist and dis- counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved. Our Cover Combine one-­of-­a-­kind hotels, meticulously A traveling cyclist gazes ahead on researched routes, custom bicycles, luggage a beatiful country road in central Turkey. Photo Jukka Salminen. transfers and behind the scenes support that (left) Kian Ward enjoys his first taste accommodates your desire for independence, of gelato. flexibility and freedom. MISSION Visit www.randonneetours.com The mission of Adventure Cycling Association is to inspire people of all Or call 1-800-242-1825 ages to travel by bicycle. We help

cyclists explore the landscapesNATHAN W A R D and history of America for fitness, fun, and self-discovery. 10 the south satisfies by Nathan Ward CAMPAIGNS Southern Italy from the saddle offers a glimpse into a land of great history and mystery. Adventure Cycling Readers: when booking, please reference code AC0210 and Our strategic plan includes three you will receive a complimentary custom cycling jersey valued at USD$80. major campaigns: touring champlain with pomg by Berne Broudy · Creating Bike Routes for America18 · Getting Americans Bicycling A Vermonter rediscovers her homestate with the help of Peace of Mind Guaranteed. · Supporting Bicycling Communities mallorca ride camp yields a personal best by Sarah Raz How to Reach Us 26 Adventure Cycling’s Sarah Raz takes the island paradise by storm — kind of. To join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us Great Explorations offers guided cycling online at www.adventurecycling.org bike & barge in northern europe by David Lamb or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-177636 and walking vacations to the world's most There’s no better way to bicycle The Netherlands than with barge support. exotic places. email: [email protected] back your biking by Eric Butterman “Many thanks for an incredible week of bicycling in France. The 42 Choose between Luxe and Classic/Casual hotels were gorgeous, the meals incredible. The guides did an Subscription Address: Take good care of your back and you’ll enjoy cycling much more. trips featuring distinctive hotels, excellent outstanding job. On a scale of 1 to 10, this trip gets a 12 in my book!” Adventure Cycling Association P.O. Box 8308 Bicycle travel photo contest by Adventure Cycling staff cuisine, unique events and exceptional L. Sams – Raleigh, NC, USA Missoula, MT 59807 52 guides who make sure the magic occurs We pick the best photos from the submissions to our third annual competition. Headquarters: on each and every trip. Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St. Missoula, MT 59802 departments LETTERS Your journey starts here. Visit www.great-explorations.com 08 WAYPOINTS 04 LETTER from the Editor Or call 1-800-242-1825 46 the final mile 05 LETTERs from the readers 50 Geared up 06 LETTER from the DIRECTOR 56 life member profile COLUMNS 57 Classifieds/Marketplace 48 road test/ Charles Pelkey A look at the Novara Randonee 63 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 Adventure Letter from the Editor Letters from our Readers Cyclist Time to Plan a Bicycle Trip Clarification on bike path/road intersections February 2012 Maine story caption correction volume 39 number 1 Tours and events offer many options for the willing www.adventurecycling.org

editor michael deme mdeme@ adventurecycling.org Who has right of way? The purpose of the review should be to and appreciate it when a motorists yield. art director greg siple There are many ways to travel by bicycle and, Editor Michael Deme recently wrote determine if legislative changes could On the other hand, I often see motorists gsiple@ adventurecycling.org about whether motorists should stop for help alleviate the confusion about right- who do not know how to interact with technical editor in this issue, all of the features focus on orga- john schubert cyclists where bike paths cross roads in of-way, and if so, to suggest appropriate bicyclists on the road, yielding incorrectly schubley@ aol.com nized group trips. As most of you know, there Missoula. He asked the rhetorical question legislative change proposals … A cursory or waving them through stop signs when FIELD editor of motorists “Why are you stopping when review of the Code language in this study they do not have the right of way. michael mccoy are hundreds, if not thousands, of businesses and organiza- mmccoy@ adventurecycling.org tions that offer organized group tours for a set fee, including you have the right of way?” Bicyclists in suggested that trail users on multi-use If we all act predictably, according contributing writers my area have spent many years trying pathways may not be obligated to com- to the rules of the road, we’ll be better dan d'ambrosio nancy clark willie weir jan heine Adventure Cycling. I’ll these events are quite to get motorists to yield to us in cross- ply with non-signalized traffic control off. However, at crosswalks I appreciate patrick o'grady venture to say that the large with thousands of walks. Most vehicle code treats bicyclists devices where the trail intersects a road- motorists yielding to me and I would hate Copy Editor phyllis picklesimer only places on the globe cyclists in attendance. as pedestrians when they are not riding way. In addition, the research found there to see us go back to the days when we advertising director you couldn’t pay to ride For a glimpse into the on the road. Motorists must yield or stop is confusion among motorists and trail were completely ignored at these intersec- rick bruner 509.493.4930 a bicycle are those that most well known of for pedestrians — and bicyclists — in users about right-of-way laws regarding tions. Please don’t encourage otherwise. advertising@ adventurecycling.org outright ban foreign- these, see Waypoints crosswalks. Having stop signs where trails the W&OD Trail where a STOP sign is Sincerely, STAFF ers from entering their on page 9. The docu- cross roads with crosswalks are a contra- directed toward the trail users. This con- Bruce Wright executive director country. In other words, mentary A Million diction and are often not enforceable. fusion could compromise safety at these Reston, Virginia jim sayer whichever location you’re Spokes takes an inside Where this situation occurs in and other similar multiuse trail/road- jsayer@ adventurecycling.org chief operations officer cycling heart desires, you look at RAGBRAI and Virginia, some cyclists have been ticketed way intersections.” (See our blog entry Not the Carriage Roads sheila snyder, cpa can find an outfit willing offers some entertaining for not stopping at these trail stop signs, on this report at fabb-bikes.blogspot. Thanks for Chuck Haney’s great membership & Development julie huck amanda lipsey to take you there. observations. For a list- but Virginia code regarding stop signs com/2011/08/report-on-zig-zag-pavement- article on Bar Harbor (Maine) and riding amy corbin joshua tack In this issue, the cyclists take you ing of the events happening around the only applies on roadways, not trails. We markings.html.) in Acadia National Park. I do have one thomas bassett alex campbell media along on their journeys and, generally, U.S. and elsewhere that we could confirm have this situation on a very popular Bicyclists in Virginia have spent many correction, though. The picture on page winona bateman michael mccoy they write about rather typical organized as happening in 2012, see pages 34 and rail trail, the W&OD Trail. There are years trying to get motorists to yield to 16 has a caption regarding our Carriage alison riley publications tours. Some people may not be interested 35. stop signs and crosswalks at almost all bicyclists in crosswalks. Putting aside Paths. We do have 50 miles of these michael deme greg siple in the level of support or pampering This being the first issue of 2012, crossings. Our DOT recently reviewed whether stop signs where trails cross at smoothly-gravelled Carriage Paths, but the derek gallagher rachel stevens it department that most of these bike trips offer and, we’re off with a bang. 64 pages chock this contradiction and came to this pre- crosswalks are appropriate, once we’ve picture is of the lower road around Otter john sieber richard darne if not, you may be more interested in full of interesting feature articles and liminary conclusion: “A review of the reached the crosswalk we expect motor- Cliffs and is part of the smoothly paved john eikens David Lamb’s story that begins on page a bit of service stuff as well. Eric Code of Virginia should be undertaken ists to yield to us, and most do. There Park Loop Road. The entire Loop Road is tours arlen hall mo mislivets 36. He writes about a particular method Butterman writes about the importance with respect to those sections dealing is almost nothing more infuriating to paved just like the picture shows — not a paul hansbarger madeline mckiddy he’s developed over the years to travel by of your back as it relates to comfortable with trail users on multi-use pathways me than to see a cyclist angrily waving crack or a pothole anywhere. routes and mapping carla majernik jennifer milyko bicycle with a group that allows him to and efficient cycling. Charles Pelkey and their obligation to comply with motorists through these intersections. Dean S. Read virginia sullivan casey greene maintain a level of control over how the reviews the Novara Randonee, a full- non-signalized traffic control devices. We have the right of way in a crosswalk Bar Harbor, Maine nathan taylor sales and marketing trip suits the group and then unfolds. featured touring bike from REI. We’re teri maloughney There are many ways to travel by bicycle also featuring our third Adventure cyclosource ted bowman sarah raz and these features only glimpse into a Cycling Bicycle Travel Photo Contest office manager few. on pages 52-55 — and we’ve added two beth petersen Event tours, those that typically sup- more pages this year because there were board of directors port 30 or more people over the course so many good photos to choose from. We president of three to seven days, seem to be an hope you enjoy it. carol york American original. On these rides, the Here’s to hoping 2012 is a great year vice president Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail jennifer garst level of support is typically a bit lower in which many of your cycling dreams and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. secretary on the pamper scale and almost all are come true. andy baur We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do treasurer camping trips, although most offer an not want your comments to be printed in Adventure andy huppert indoor accommodations option. Many Michael Deme Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your board members name and address with your correspondence. Email jason boucher todd copley of these are cross-state rides and attract Editor, Adventure Cyclist george mendes jeff miller people who are interested in a very [email protected] your comments, questions, or letters to editor@ donna o'neal wally werner adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure social affair — and many attract the Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. same cyclists year after year. Some of

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letter from the Director Companions Wanted 2012 Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978 Get ready for a great year of bicycle travel

South Carolina to Los Angeles I’m riding from Pacific Coast Highway, Sierra Cascades, and or two rest days and some motel overnights. If We’re one month into 2012 and I want to share with you my “cue sheet” the coast of South Carolina to Los Angeles, Alaska and Dalton highways. Expect about four interested email [email protected]. California. I’m leaving the last week of March months to complete the 8,000-mile (13,000 kilo- for the coming year. Already we’ve launched our first-ever January coastal 2012, traveling thru Georgia, Tennessee, meter) trip. Looking for partners and advice. If Sierra Cascades — South to North I’m looking Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. I interested email edward.a.krasniewski@gmail. for companions for all or part of this ride during tour and leadership courses in Florida. Here’s a sampling of the bike-travel am a fit 53-year-old male who is very easy going com. May and June of 2012. The plan is to ride six but might like to push the mileage on some days per week, camping most nights but eating goodness to come. February: We’ll celebrate our new route, the Underground Railroad days. I am going out to my daughter’s gradua- New Mexico to California 18-year-old plan- out when possible. I’m a 62-year-old male who Detroit Alternate from Oberlin, Ohio, through “Motown” and into Ontario — grow- tion in California. If interested email biking16@ ning a trip for the early spring, starting in New rode the TransAm two years ago and consider yahoo.com. Mexico. Splicing together a few trails, most myself a solid rider. We don’t have to ride at the ing the Adventure Cycling Route Network to over 41,000 miles! We’ll accelerate our likely ending in San Francisco. I’m looking for same pace but I would enjoy sharing the experi- Cross Country — March 2012 Planning ride from someone to link up with anywhere in between. ence with others. If interested email stillman@u. Covina, California, to Charleston, South Carolina. I’d like to cover 50 to 100 miles a day. I’ve done washington.edu. Networking, touring, efforts to convert older route maps to a Radley will orchestrate his last Adventure Seeking co-riders part way or all the way. Initial one long tour before and a few overnighters. I’m mapping and advocating more advanced Geographic Information Cycling tour (Cycle Washington). route via Google Maps. Open to suggestions flexible to what the route will be but currently Tour of South America I’m a 55-year-old System format. August: Family tours will conclude and Adventure Cycling Association guidance. If thinking of riding the Great Parks South to the Australian guy who has just completed a ride for better bicycle travel. March: We’ll be in Washington, DC, in Colorado (after rides on the Katy Trail interested email [email protected]. TransAm, then the Pacific Coast, or maybe just from Canada down the Mississippi river to the Western Express. Let me know if you have Houston, a pleasurable ride made more so by to advocate for cycling at the National and C&O Canal). We’ll continue unveil- Texas to Canada and Back A friend and I are any ideas at [email protected]. the wonderful people I’ve met. I’m presently Bike Summit. We plan a big roll-out of ing a series of fun videos on how to trav- riding from Amarillo to Banff and Jasper nation- in Nicaragua doing volunteer work and learn- our www.bikeovernights.org website — el by bike. Major research will conclude al parks. We’ll then head west and south along Northern Tier 2012 Seattle to Minneapolis ing Español before leaving in March or April to and hope to unveil an agreement with the this summer on Bicycle Route 66. the coast until we get to San Francisco. Then June 28 to August 11. Group of 10 to 14 rid- tour South America for the year. I’m looking for National Park Service to promote bike September: We’ll host a special ses- we’ll head back east to Texas. We would love ers wanted to join us on an RV-supported ride. an easy-going person to join me, someone who tourism and the U.S. Bicycle Route System sion on implementation of the U.S. companions on any part of the route. We plan to Overnights in motels, churches, retreat centers, likes adventure. Camping will be the preferred have an easygoing pace and to complete the trip and dorms. Average 55 to 60 miles per day. We accommodation, though lodgings will be uti- (USBRS). Our tour season starts in earnest Bicycle Route System at the biennial in six months. Several Adventure Cycling routes have done the route eight times and love to lized when convenient. If interested email with the Arizona Road Adventure and Pro-Walk Pro-Bike Conference in Long will be used and we will camp most of the time. share it with others! Affordable (not for profit or [email protected]. Texas Hill Country tours. Beach, California. This is our first cross-country trip. Email me for fund raising). Contact Nancy at (802) 763-8937 April: The Board of Directors will com- October: We’ll announce the winners more details at [email protected]. or [email protected] if interested. plete a new strategic plan for 2012-2016, of our annual Bike Travel Awards. I plan climaxing with the 40th anniversary cel- to participate in the Adventure Travel Washington DC, to Arctic Circle with Sheepdog Texas to Provincetown, Massachusetts I’m a I’m a college student on a gap year traveling 59-year-old retired man leaving Austin, Texas, in ebration of Bikecentennial. Look for our World Summit in Switzerland, where Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- from Maryland to Deadhorse, Alaska (end of mid April. Heading east to Baton Rouge on the not verify, that the persons above are truthfully third annual Cyclists’ Travel Guide. we’ll continue our efforts to elevate bike the Dalton Highway), with his one-year old Southern Tier Route, then North on the Great representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure May: We’ll honor National Bike tourism in the travel industry, and work Old English Sheepdog, Winston. I plan on leav- Rivers and Underground Railroad routes to New Cycling members. You can see more ads and post We’ll start 2012 with the release of our Month with our third social media cam- with the European Cycling Federation on ing sometime in early spring between March York. I’ll then head east to Massachusetts on new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp latest route, an alternate version of our paign for the USBRS. Several states will developing biking networks. 21 and April 1, and plan on riding parts of the the Erie Canal Route. Planning on an easygoing anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, TransAmerica Trail, Grand Canyon Connector, pace with no deadlines. Self sustained with one P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. Underground Railroad Bicycle Route, run- seek approval of new U.S. Bicycle Routes. November: We’ll join our colleagues TA ad 7,375x2,375.qxd:TA ad 7,125x2,375.qxd 1/5/12 10:09 AM Page 1 ning through Detroit and the Michigan We’ll finalize a 518-mile reroute of the in the National Bike Tour Directors countryside. Northern Tier (and a 300-mile reroute Association to promote and create better of the Lewis & Clark Trail) to bypass cycling events across North America. A D V E N T U R E V A C A T I O N S increasingly dangerous truck traffic in December: We’ll wrap up a major North Dakota — and we’ll kick off our overhaul of the Adventure Cycling web- Bicycling & Hiking Adventures for those cross-country self-contained tours. site to provide you with the best online Passionate about Bicycling & Hiking June: We’ll convene with bike advo- content about bicycle travel. Glacier • Yellowstone • Colorado • Canadian Rockies • New Mexico cates from around the planet at the bienni- After all that, we’ll join you in celebrat- Bryce/Zion/Grand Canyon • Pacific Northwest • California Coast/Sierras South TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES al Velo-City Conference in Vancouver, BC, ing the holidays and another grand year of Dakota’s Black Hills • Texas Hill Country • Kentucky’s Bluegrass Country 7975 E. Harvard, #J, and strategize on creating national bike bicycle travel. I look forward to seeing you Michigan’s Shoreline • Wisconsin’s Door County • Minnesota’s Land-of-Lakes Denver, CO 80231 networks from Europe to South America. somewhere in North America in 2012! Natchez Trace: Nashville to Natchez • New England’s North Country July: Adventure Cycling will host a big # 2012 Odyssey: British Columbia # 1•800•417•2453 downtown party to celebrate the expan- Jim Sayer sion of our Missoula headquarters (and Executive Director Inn-To-Inn, Fully-Supported www.timbertours.com “bike-travel mecca”). Legendary leader Tom [email protected] E-mail: T I M B E R L I N E A D V E N T U R E S [email protected]

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy A MILLION SPOKES IN IOWA BIKE Documentary film maker gives us a glimpse into RAGBRAI OVERNIGHTS If you haven’t already done so, you should check out I recently caught the Hardy turns her camera Adventure Cycling’s Bike tail end of a film on the on just a tiny fraction Overnights website at bike Documentary Channel of the riders, including overnights.org. An ever- about the Register’s newbies and veterans growing number of one- and Annual Great Bicycle (and even one of the two-overnight (and sometimes Ride Across Iowa or, famous rides’ founders, longer) adventures appear on as it is more widely ex Register columnist the site, contributed by rider- known, RAGBRAI. John Karras) and then writer-photographers from WayPoints Hoping to see what gets out of the way, New York to New Zealand I missed, I searched allowing them, in their — although so far the major- the DirecTV guide for own words, to draw ity are from the continental additional showings, the viewer in. Not only U.S. Adventure Cycling but to no avail. Not one that, but she allows the writer/media specialist Michael VIRGINIA to surrender so easily, non-riding locals to take McCoy, who is overseeing and IS FOR I employed the internet center stage as well. organizing the site, says he’d and was able to track If you’ve ever consid- SINGLETRACK like to receive write-ups from down director Varda ered riding RAGBRAI, LOVERS all of the states not yet repre- Hardy, who put me in you really should see Thanks to Adventure Cycling’s sented. touch with the film’s A Million Spokes for a cartographer extraordinaire “So far, we have several production company. A taste of what the ride Jennifer Milyko for alerting rides from Texas, Washington, week later, I had a DVD is about for many of its Waypoints to the brand-new and California,” Mac says, of A Million Spokes and riders and why so many Virginia Mountain Bike Trail. “along with one to three rides was able to watch the return year in and year According to the Virginia from maybe 17 other states. entire film, and I’m glad RAGBRAI, but what makes out. Bicycling Federation, “Chris We’d really like to see some- I did. this film interesting is that its For more information about Scott and company have thing from Hawaii, Alaska, If you’re into cycling events, focus isn’t just on the miles the film and how to purchase a pioneered a continuous, 480- Iowa, Florida …” To check you may think you know or ridden by thousands of people, copy, visit amillionspokes.com mile off-road trail along the out which states are and have heard enough about but on the people themselves. or call (319) 835-9144. – MD Allegheny and Blue Ridge are not represented, go to mountain ranges. The majority the home page and view the of it is singletrack … this is “Categories” list on the right- awesome. Virginia now has a hand side of your screen. world-class, long-range moun- “I believe this program has tain bike route.” the potential to inspire hun- Participants in the Trans NH Bike Ride line up before they head off to conquor the roads of New Hampshire. Chris Scott is one of the dreds, maybe thousands of key guys at Shenandoah new bicycle travelers,” Mac Mountain Touring (SMT) THE GRANITE STATE — LENGTHWISE adds. “And if someone tries in Harrisonburg, Virginia. Annual ride raises money to help battle muscular dystrophy out an overnight, he or she Founded in 1999, SMT pro- might be on the road to a motes races and other special Adventure Cycling member ride that benefits the New TNHBR is known for great future cross-country ride. Or events, and offers on-demand Paul Hemmerich’s wife, Bart, Hampshire Muscular Dystrophy riding and great support. not — there’s nothing wrong road and mountain-bike tours. reached out to Waypoints to Association. Over the past According to 2008 participant with sticking to the shorter Additional info gleaned from let us know about the Trans three years, the ride has gener- Chris Demers’ ride journal, rides. We just want to see SMT’s blog reveals that the NH Bike Ride (TNHBR) ated over $406,000 for the “I don’t have a lot of experi- people out there doing it!” new trail, mapped just last fall, which, in 2012, will run from disease-fighting organization ence with group rides or major A couple of representative is “a route spanning the length the New Hampshire/Canada (and over $1.5 million since cycling events, but I can’t Bike Overnight titles include of Virginia’s Allegheny and border down to Portsmouth, the ride’s inception). Three-day imagine an event run better “Seeking Comfort from the Blue Ridge mountain ranges.” New Hampshire, from June riders are required to raise than this one. I did hear from a Heat in Comfort, Texas” and Climbing a cumulative 22-24. Bart is on the ride’s a minimum of $750, while number of folks this weekend “Embracing a Child’s Pace: 65,000 feet, the trail trends board of directors and wanted the two-day riders must raise who do have lots of experience Multi-day Bike Trip on the Erie southwesterly from just out- Adventure Cyclist readers to $500, and the one-day riders and they all agree that this ride Canal.” side Strasburg to Damascus, know that the 2012 ride will be at least $250, with the $50 is their favorite. It’s easy to see “As the New Year gets aka Trail Town USA. On the the 25th anniversary addition. application fee being applied why. You treat the riders like going, we’re also beefing up dreaming board is a system of This year’s ride will offer three to these totals. Riders who kings and queens.” That pretty the non-ride-description con- overnight huts running its full g r eg sip l e options: one day; two days; exceed $1,200 are eligible for much says it all. SMOOTH OPERATORS The construction turmoil surrounding Adventure tent of the site,” Mac says. length. You can watch a video or three days, so there’s an a reward. Regardless of what If you’re interested in finding “You’ll begin seeing more and of the trail at http://shenando option for cyclists of all abilities amount of money is raised, all out more about the TNHBR, Cycling’s building expansion has barely impacted the office routine. Here, Tours more gear reviews, how-to ahmountaintouring.blogspot. and fitness levels. riders get a free massage at visit transnhbikeride.org. Specialist Madeline McKiddy works in her temporary space while a backhoe info, travel tips, and camp-meal com. TNHBR is a fundraiser the end of the day. rumbles through the courtyard digging trenches for a new foundation. recipes.”

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 SOUTHERN ITALY - 1 TheThe SouthSouth SatisfiesSatisfies Pedaling Down the Heel of the Boot of Italy

Story and photos by Nathan Ward lunch stop along the sea. My wife Andrea jumped in, wearing helped instigate positive changes. It’s amazing how memory all her bike clothes, and we all swam in In 1952, the Italian government forced can distill a full day down the waves. Kian learned the words “wave” around 15,000 cave dwellers in Matera to into a few minutes, regard- and “surf.” He laughed and laughed, kick- leave the canyon and move to a new pre- less of how many miles you ing his feet with abandon and yelling fabricated town on top of the bluff. The - ITALIAN BIKE TOURS - ride or how many other “Swimming, Daddy! Swimming!” cave city was abandoned, and it’s here we things you see. Looking That swim was some of the best bike started our bike tour of the Salento penin- Tuscany • Amalfi • Umbria back, I don’t remember touring I’ve ever experienced. sula, better known in America as the heel Sicily • Apulia • Basilicata much about the bike ride that day, and Southern Italy hasn’t always been the of the boot of Italy. Sardinia • NEW Bike & Boat maybe that’s how it should be. After all, a site of the happiest memories, and our Shuttling from the airport in Bari, our bicycleA is simply a tool to help propel you starting point on this bike tour was still first view of Matera’s sassi (stone houses through and over landscapes. more famous for what it had been, rather or caves) delighted us. The sassi looked We stopped at a simple open-sided bar than for the fascinating town it has evolved otherworldly, like a fantasy village, like There are a lot of companies along a banana-shaped beach. The tour- into today. Matera, the city of caves in the caveman hyper-urbanism. The ceiling of out there but Siciclando ist season had ended, and the beach was region of Basilicata, once represented a for- one cave dwelling served as the floor for the treats you like family. nearly empty, although the beach boy still gotten, or perhaps just neglected, part of one above, stretching from the valley floor Gwen D. set out row after row of red beach chairs Italy. In this region, people lived in abject and over the top of a dividing hill. Above Best of Umbria & topped with white umbrellas. poverty in caves along the Gravina River it all, a majestic cathedral stood, a sign that Tuscany Tour The water looked warm and beckon- Canyon. perhaps Jesus did finally make it past Eboli ing, green fading to deep-water blue, small People lived cheek to jowl with their after all. You all have done such an waves rolling in. We parked our bikes livestock in these confined spaces, causing We met the rest of our cycling tour incredible job at finding against the bar and walked down to the many health issues and an infant mortality group in a cave that had been transformed fabulous hotels, amazing water. Kian, my 19-month-old son, stared rate of more than 50 percent. People had into a four-star hotel complete with a ther- food and great friends at the water. He had never seen the ocean always lived this way in these caves since mal spa and pool, in just the next cave along the route. before, and he was fascinated. late Paleolithic times several thousand years over, of course. Dario Carzan, our host and Megyn L. “Swimming?” he asked as I stripped before. co-owner of the Italian cycling company Customized Taste down to just my bike shorts, then stripped Then, during the mid-1930s, the activ- Siciclando, greeted us with the promise, of Sicily Tour “On this tour, you will do a lot more drink- ing and eating than you do biking. This An AUTHENTIC ITALIAN tour of Basilicata and Apulia (Puglia) is our experience…Italian owned easiest tour!” and operated made a big This sounded perfect to us because it difference for us. was our first international bicycle tour with Dorothy F. our new son. I looked around at the other Apulia Easy Bike Tour people on the tour, two Canadian couples, an American couple, an older American “Discover Undiscovered Italy” man, and a young woman from New York says it all. City. I tried to read their minds. They were John B. probably thinking something like “Oh, my Self-guided Sicily God! Those people have a baby! Babies cry! Hills & Sea Tour He’s going to cry during every single meal and make our perfect vacation hell!” But they all just smiled, hiding their feelings well. Dario had agreed months before to put Ancient paths. Smooth stones line the streets below the Matera Cathedral. together a tour for us, a kid-friendly trip that included low-mileage cycling days, he said. At that point, I don’t think we’d yet and started transforming the ancient grot- historic villages, and unique places to stay told him that Kian has food allergies and toes into modern hotels and restaurants. at night. Then he sold the trip to all the can’t eat cheese — and we were in Italy! After the tour, Andrea and I mercifully others as well, which was a risk for him Introductions made all around, we took left the group to their own dinner and too — just think of a time when you’ve had off on a walking tour of the sassi. Since its entertained our wired child at a restaurant

dinner with a couple and their baby and ke v in mcmaniga l abandonment, the sassi has made a remark- full of strangers that we didn’t have to see the baby freaks out. He had never met us, able recovery. This is due partly because again. He was soon exhausted so we took www.Siciclando.com him down to nothing. He stood still, with ist, doctor, and writer, Carlo Levi, was or our child, so for all he knew, Kian could UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site him back to the cave to sleep, as one does. 1-800-881-0484 wide eyes, right where the sea lapped banished to southern Italy for his anti- have been one of those children who rap- in 1993, and partly because movie directors Then we sat outside with a bottle of at his feet. Then he laughed like a mad- Fascist views. While there he observed the idly end dinner parties. discovered it. Mel Gibson filmed part of local primitivo wine as a full moon rose 10 years experience man and ran into the water, careless and impoverished living conditions, not only Just a few days before the trip, he was the Passion of the Christ here and vaulted over the ancient city and the soft sounds 31% guest return rate unconcerned. He ran in all the way up to in Matera, but throughout the region. His still in doubt. “I don’t know how you’re the sassi into international view. Around of restaurant conversations drifted out 100% passion for Italy, biking, his chest, and I grabbed him just before the book, Christ Stopped at Eboli, published in going to do it. My daughter can’t stand the same time, enterprising people saw the over the ravine. It was quiet and deserted. food, and beautiful experiences first wave rolled over his head. 1945, drew attention to the situation and more than 10 minutes in the bike trailer,” tourism potential in this unique cave city Locals still stay in the busy modern city

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 The depth of recorded human history in tour was fun in more ways than one. southern Italy is hard to comprehend for Italians love children, and they continually someone from North America. Of course, went out of their way to help us out. Child human history at home goes back tens bike trailers are a novelty in Italy, and in of thousands of years as well, but it’s the every town we stopped, old men would history of Native Americans, and despite spot Kian in the trailer and gather round their great cultures, their low-impact life- him, talking and gesticulating happily. style left little mark on the land. If our Dario drove ahead of the group and known history fills a couple of chapters, stopped in a picturesque field where he in Southern Italy history fills an extremely and his assistant, Simone, put together thick book. magical local lunches — different types of After lunch, we rode back to Matera. mozzarella, homemade bread topped with Basilicata and Apulia are still some of the garlic and drizzled with olive oil, several poorer regions of Italy, and though they’ve types of olives, sun-dried tomatoes pickled been settled by impressive cultures for a with mushrooms, pizza, and fresh melon. It very long time, they still haven’t learned was easy to get used to. how to dispose of their trash. After lunch, we started to come across I had lots of time to analyze the road- trulli, round stone houses with conical sides because pulling Kian in the Burley roofs. As the story goes, trulli were built trailer was like being hooked to an anchor. dry by stacking flat stones. At one time, Olives everywhere. Some of the olive groves in the Salento Peninsula date back 1,000 years. It was the slowest 20-mile ride of my life. farmers were taxed on the square footage of That morning, we had loaded the trailer their buildings, and trullis could quickly Masseria, a 17th-century farmstead trans- ing with a toddler work well with the like it was a minivan headed to grandma’s be pulled down before the taxman arrived. formed into a four star farm stay. When other Siciclondo guests, Andrea and I house for a week. We had extra clothes, Today, many of the trulli still stand, the manager found out that Kian’s bedtime took turns eating with the group while books, drinks, food, diapers, wipes, and a and local entrepreneurs have started turn- was before the restaurant even opened, his the other stayed in the room as Kian few tons of toys. ing the old masserias (farms) and trullis wife generously offered to make him a plate slept. In Noci Andrea enjoyed a fan- Lesson one, if you plan to bike tour in into B&Bs or luxury hotels. We ended our of the famed local pasta, orecchiette, with tastic three-course meal with the group a group and you’re the only one pulling a second day of riding in the outskirts of tomato sauce. while I stayed in the trulli. It’s not the child, make the trailer as light as possible. the town of Noci at the beautiful Abate As another way to make bicycle tour- ideal situation for most couples, but it’s Otherwise, you are going to be way off the back. Once we left Matera and headed east, we rode out of Basilicata and into Apulia on a route that would take us the length of the heel. We followed country roads through Affordable bike trips across the region’s famed olive groves, where some of the trees are several hundred years old. Europe. Beautiful riding, great I kept looking at the trees and thinking of company, terrific meals, respectful one of those contests where you try to guess travel. Flexibility, independence, the number of jellybeans in a Mason jar. loaded touring options. All ages and Except in this case the contest would be, abilites welcome. Since 1986. how many olives were produced by a single one of these trees in the last 497 years? We’re different — discover why. The lack of traffic helped us relax and bluemarble.org enjoy the ride. We’d all heard stories about Mother and son. Andrea and Kian break in the shade before the short climb to Alberobello. the fast and wild drivers in Italy, and Andrea and I were a bit nervous about on top of the bluffs, their collective knowl- soil’s promise of crops to come. taking our young child out on the roads. edge of what life was once like here perhaps Riding in a group, we pedaled along pic- However, the combination of country roads keeping them far from this valley of caves turesque and rolling roads with virtually and very considerate Italian drivers eased and memories. no traffic. Following a dirt road across a our fears, but Andrea still rode a few yards Rain fell all night, turning the stone wine estate, we dropped into another lime- behind me most of the time to buffer close streets into a slick skating rink as we ped- stone valley and hiked down into a cave cars if needed. aled up out of the sassi and back into the known as the Crypt of Original Sin. Inside, I do agree with a friend of mine who modern town of the new Matera. Splashing Benedictine monks in the ninth century just finished a different bike tour in Italy, through the city streets, we headed out had painted scenes of the creator, Adam “I felt safer in Italy as a cyclist on the roads of town on roughly paved roads through and Eve, apostles, and angels. Their work than I do in Colorado. In Italy everyone just freshly tilled fields that eagerly soaked up lay forgotten for hundreds of years before treated me like a vehicle.” the rain. The showers eased, then quit, as it was rediscovered and carefully preserved As we passed through villages, we soon the air filled with the smell of the dark rich just recently. discovered bringing our child on a bike

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 SOUTHERN ITALY - 4

these towns incredible? Every one of them all walks of life. I could almost feel the is like a fairy tale village.” They may not ideas — and excitement for life — flowing have the perfection of Tuscany, but the old through the air. hilltop towns of Puglia are still stunning After our day off the bikes, we pedaled and impressive. straight east to the coast of the Adriatic Sea. Leaving Locorotondo, we rode a busy The road followed the coast with its prom- road downhill out of town, then turned ise of green water and mystery. As someone onto a thin road through fields and forests. who has spent most of my life in the misty It climbed steeply to a low pass where we mountains, far from any oceans, the sea first saw the alluring Adriatic Sea in the holds a magnetic mystery for me. near distance. From this high point, we The sand and sea called us, and just let our wheels flow fast and free downhill when we couldn’t stand it anymore, I spot- toward Ostuni, the White City. ted the Siciclando van parked at a rustic Kian was melting down after being in roadside bar. As Simone and Dario put the Burley bike trailer most of the day, so lunch on the table, Kian, Andrea, and I ran we didn’t stop until we reached the gelate- and dove into the sea, my son swimming in Ancient way. Simona Tonna leads the group along the storied coast of the Adriatic Sea. ria in the central piazza of Ostuni. A lemon the big water for the first time. gelato quickly dried his tears. “Aren’t you worried about riding in wet much better than staying at home. through the town’s historic center, a maze A soothing ocean breeze blew that eve- shorts?” someone asked. No, I wasn’t. I On Day Three, we enjoyed the best of narrow whitewashed passageways, each ning as we sat outside in the last golden Sweet dreams. Sun, sand, sea — and too much pizza — sends Kian to a land of endless gelato. only knew that we were biking along the cycling of the whole trip. It started in ending in a high view over the green farms rays of the sun, Ostuni spread out below us shores of the Adriatic, a promising beach Noci and led through Alberobello, another and forests below. Old men rode colorful like a bride’s dress. We drank a cold Peroni the bike in your room, or tied to your tent, ture, we did just that. We walked through came into view, and the sea begged me to World Heritage Site and home of a historic Vespas through the lanes. Old women in beer and then wandered the narrow alley- and spend the day wandering the streets the cathedrals, went to a photo exhibition, jump into the surf and swim in the water. neighborhood made up of over 1,000 trul- flowered dresses hung laundry out on lines ways until we found a tiny restaurant with of wherever you are in the world. Sit in the ate local bread, wandered the streets, lis- So I did. lis. Although Alberobello is more famous, high above the street. It felt like we were just three tables where we enjoyed the local churches and cafés, let the choir’s chanting tened to a band, and kept Kian up late to Wet and happy, we spun on to Otranto, the small city of Locorotondo impressed in a movie set from any feel-good Italian wine and a bowl of fresh pasta. and the neighborhood chatter float around play in the piazzas after dark. our bodies drying quickly in the coast- me more. movie that you’ve ever seen. I’ve always thought that one of the most your head, and soak in the magic of the As the sun set over the ornate cathedrals al sunshine. Originally established as the We stopped in Locorotondo for a picnic Harold Fisher, a fit emergency-room important things to do when bike touring planet’s diversity. in Lecce, and the hour grew later, the city Greek city of Hydrus, Otranto is the east- in the city park and spent time wandering doctor from Toronto, exclaimed, “Aren’t is not to ride your bike every day. Leave In Lecce, a town called the jewel of the became more alive, the bars and trattorias ernmost point of the Italian mainland. Salento for its elaborate baroque architec- filled to overflowing with people from continued on page 59

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AdventureCyclist_TdC.indd 1 1/13/2012 5:27:57 PM 16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 Touring Champlain with POMG s a Vermonter, I consider ched- tour mates, enthusiastic midwesterners and state with Peace of Mind Guaranteed (POMG) said, “Practice the Golden Rule: do unto dar cheese and maple syrup to be New Yorkers alike, and head straight to the Bike Tours on their new Champlain Islands others as you would have them do unto staples of my diet, like milk and bar for a tasting. route arrived, I immediately signed up. you.” And those are the words that dic- eggsA are for other people. I eat them with We’re on a five-day tour of Vermont’s I’ve done a lot of touring as a guide, a tate First’s business. He keeps it small and most meals. But Vermont wine? I am unsure Champlain Islands, and even though we’re guest, and a self-supported rider, but I’ve personal, taking about 250 guests per year if drinking wine at all is a good idea at 10:00 only an hour into the first day of riding, I never gone on a guided ride in my own around his home state of Vermont, with AM on a Monday in late July. And, although feel like we’re in a rolling postcard. Standing back yard. I assumed that I’d be revisiting an occasional dip into New York or New Vermont produces some darn good hard in front of Snow Farm, lush green fields fill places I already knew and enjoying myself as Hampshire to round out the route. First is cider, rye, and maple liqueur, I can’t say I’ve my view, with tidy rows of smartly trimmed first-time visitors discovered Vermont under hands-on — in fact, he frequently co-guides. had a Vermont wine I’ve loved. But I am a vines splaying out to where the dirt road the tutelage of POMG’s expert guides. But Experience and a love of Vermont define his team player. When my bike tour rolls into curves east with the lake shore. Black and within an hour of getting on my bike, I am dozen tour leaders. They’re not the starry- Vermont’s Snow Farm Vineyard, I join my white Holsteins contentedly chew their cud already discovering things about Vermont eyed, just-outta-college-with-legs-like-tree- in the background, ambling unhurriedly I never knew existed. I sipped a sweet and trunks guides of some tour companies, but through the landscape. A picturesque red sophisticatedly fruity ice wine, a 2008 Estate Vermonters passionate about their state and barn and a glimpse of Lake Champlain add Vidal Blanc, that is so smooth, every one of cycling. interest to the brilliant meadows. us packs a bottle into the support van before “My goal was to connect likeminded I love Vermont. Since I moved here, I’ve we roll on. people who love riding, and to provide a logged thousands of miles by bike, plane, POMG Tours (pomgbike.com) is based way for them to bike tour without having boat, train, skis, camel, and on foot, but I’ve about a mile from my house in Richmond, to worry about logistics, all at a price that’s yet to visit a state, province, or country that’s Vermont. Rich First, who founded POMG in barely more than if they organized the tour more soulful. Every day that I ride my bike 1995, named the business after his grandfa- themselves,” said First. “We aim to provide a here, I am struck by how lucky I am. So when ther’s Hartford, Connecticut jewelry store, high level of service, lots of autonomy each the opportunity to bike through my home also called POMG. First’s grandfather always day, and exceptional local knowledge. Every

Story and photos by Berne Broudy leader knows the area where they’re guid- In the morning, after a heaping plate VERMONT’S CHAMPLAIN ISLANDS Ira. Forts, parks, roads, mountains, islands ing inside out — the culture, the vibe, and of eggs and home fries and a quick route (North and South Hero), and a furniture even which bathrooms are cycling friendly. review, we walk out to our bikes, now company bear their names or refer to the If you’re going to offer peace of mind, you adorned with water bottles with our favor- brothers. We pass Hero’s Welcome, a clas- have to know what you’re talking about.” ite vegetables drawn on them, a cute way to sic white clapboard general store that sells POMG is true to its mission. By being help Mary and Philip tell whose is whose every kind of trinket as well as gour- small, they’re also nimble. This fall, when when they dutifully fill them each morn- met sandwiches and home-baked goods. Hurricane Irene doused large sections of ing. We set out on our tour. The van is like Fortunately, everyone has just eaten, so we southern Vermont with floodwaters and a border collie, periodically sweeping by power past, hugging the shoreline with sun mud, First, who was guiding a group when with the cowbell clanging to make sure streaming through the clouds. Next stop is the storm hit, loaded them in the POMG no one needs more water, more of Mary’s over the bridge in Alburg, Vermont — con- van and headed north out of the weather. banana bread, or encouragement. sidered an island, it’s actually a peninsula The group did a different tour than they One of the best things about traveling connected to mainland Quebec. At the base signed up for, but they had a riding vaca- with guides who know the roads is that of this bridge is Windmill Point, where, in tion instead of being stranded in south- you stay on quiet ones. We’re off the main 1776, Benedict Arnold anchored his fleet ern Vermont with no water, electricity, or drag and onto meandering country lanes prior to the Battle of Lake Champlain. roads. within a couple of miles of leaving Shore Benedict Arnold also spent a lot of time POMG’s Lake Champlain Islands Tour is Acres. I’m riding with twenty-something in Vermont. In 1997, Benedict Arnold’s brand new. Not only is it postcard perfect, Kyle, who is starting his career in educa- Spitfire, the last vessel unaccounted for guiding guests on roads with so little traf- A peace offering. Until recently, there were more cows in Vermont than people. tion with a summer vacation. In September from the Battle of Valcour Island, which sits fic they almost seem like overgrown bike he’ll embark on a career in teaching chem- just off the shores of the Champlain Islands, paths, but it’s a favorite of history buffs. My guides are Mary Yates and Philip Shore Acres driveway. The inn perches istry to high-school students. He’s fit and between South Hero and Plattsburgh, New The tour passes some of the most important Galiga, two of POMG’s trusted veteran on one of the most spectacular pieces of cranking along with the rest of the pack, York, was discovered perfectly preserved Revolutionary War sites in both Vermont leaders. Philip is known for his wry sense sprawling lakefront in the Islands. The but he confesses he’s never ridden his bike on the floor of Lake Champlain. and New York. It also showcases bike- of humor and mischievous smile. He is a motel-style rooms are simple, clean, and ke v in mcmaniga l farther than around the block, and in fact We’ve forgotten the buffeting winds friendly Burlington, Vermont’s Queen City, high-school art teacher by day — a favor- comfortable with million dollar views. Vast he hasn’t had a bike since he was a kid. He’s park to refill water and graze, and Marcella from the first day’s ride as we count cows and explores the shores of the other Great ite among his students for being down to green lawn rolls down a gentle hill from the riding his dad’s spare. His dad, Mark, who is hurting. She’s on a men’s saddle and it’s and admire stone houses sprinkled through Lake, Lake Champlain. earth, honest, sincere, and slightly irrever- lake-view rooms to the rocky shoreline of brought his adult sons, daughter-in-law, set high. Her knees hurt. Mary and Phillip the agricultural landscape. After miles of I’m psyched. I’ve been on my mountain ent. Mary arrived with home-baked zuc- Lake Champlain, with a full panorama of wife, and grandson along, is a fanatic. Kyle swap her saddle for a spare, and with her Adirondack-view lakefront and excep- bike nearly every day this summer, but chini bread and fresh-picked blueberries to the Green Mountains in the background. is biking in sneakers and a T-shirt. Mark informed consent perform surgery with a tional pavement, we cross another bridge When I arrive, two guests, Suzanne and looks like a logoed racer, but he’s just out hacksaw on her too-long seat post. After a onto Isle La Motte. We pedal the perimeter Chris, are already swimming. I drop my for a good time. Kyle’s brother, Kevin, and few more miles, Marcella and Kevin call for of the island, stopping at Fisk Quarry to Vermont is bathed in sunshine, and the lake bike in the garage, retrieve my duffel, and his powerhouse of a wife, Marcella, are a lunch stop at one of the islands’ greasy see 480-million-year-old fossils, and the am cannonballing into Champlain’s brisk right behind. spoons, and a shuttle back to the inn. Mark ancient Chazy Reef, cemented into the is sprinkled with sailboats. Our final reward and choppy waters within minutes. After the above-mentioned wine tasting, speeds away into strong headwinds with quarry’s rock floor. There is no entry fee, All POMG trips start with a quick ori- we’re back on our bikes, and we get the Mary and me chasing behind. The weather and there are no velvet ropes directing is a five-mile downhill into Willsboro. entation meeting. I dry off and sprint to be first taste of why locals say, “If you don’t has gone from serene to blastingly windy traffic. In fact, we’re the only ones here. on time. Our group is small: an extended like the weather, wait five minutes.” The and drizzly by the time we reach the inn. We leave our bikes on the rocky slab and I’ve logged less than 500 miles on my road add to the ample pile of snacks in the sup- family from Minnesota (grandma and son sky is suddenly dark, and a light rain is fall- The rainy weather has blown through wander through what looks like an old bike and it’s nearly August. Because I can, port van. Mary doesn’t have a cell phone, tagged along in a car), a couple from New ing. The Champlain Islands are the flattest and we head north through North Hero, cracked parking lot. Previous visitors have I drop my luggage at POMG headquarters and her smile is about as broad as the van’s York City, two guides, and me. Philip and part of Vermont, but between sprinkles, skirting the picturesque lakefront and made small circles of pebbles around the the morning the tour starts, and I ride from window — it warms up even the grouchi- Mary mysteriously query people on their we’re rolling up and down some short but biking into Revolutionary War history. most evident fossils. There is no security — my house to Shore Acres Inn in North est cyclist, even mid-bonk. favorite fruit or vegetable — an icebreaker punchy climbs — about 50 miles of them. Vermont’s best known Revolutionary War nothing to keep someone from prying one Hero, Vermont. I roll down the crushed limestone of of sorts. The group stops en masse in a small heroes are the Allen brothers, Ethan and of the fossils out and taking it home. It’s

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20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 Vermont, it’s assumed that kind of thing is the corn stalks and red barns are glowing inappropriate, and people leave the fossils orange when the sun peeks through. We’re alone. It’s refreshing. skirting the lakeshore, watching the storm Back on the bikes, we pedal on to the barrel across the plains toward us. At every former site of Fort St. Anne and home of garage, gazebo, or marina, we consider St. Anne’s Shrine. We honor the saint with stopping and waiting for the van. It’s driz- a swim in the lake and then draw silly pic- zling again, and Mary is somewhere behind DISC TRUCKER tures in the sand by the statue of Samuel us likely retrieving other cyclists. Now it’s de Champlain. Then we pedal north within full on raining, but we’re in an uninhabited a mile of Canada (stopping at a farm stand stretch. We know from the route directions for fresh-picked strawberries, peas, and that we only have three miles to go. We tomatoes) before cresting over Rouses Point keep our heads down and keep moving. Bridge into New York. The van arrives with the rest of our group Remember that part about the weather about five minutes after we reach the lodge, changing abruptly? At the apex of the as we’re drying off with large terry towels bridge, guide Philip and I are treated to a and sipping hot tea. spectacular light show — explosive fingers Pointe Au Roche Lodge looks like of lightning slapping the ground and thick it belongs in the Tetons or maybe British gray clouds moving quickly toward us. Columbia. It’s a rustic log structure with The hairs on my arms and neck stand up. cathedral ceilings, a majestic great room with We sprint into Rouses Point, where the rest A taste of the grape. The group stops by Snowfarm Vinyard and samples some local wines. to-the-ceiling windows, a stone fireplace, of our crew has already tucked into Lake and inviting overstuffed chairs. I open the Street Café and Bakery for lunch and refuge practically in Quebec) — Canadian gravy We buy an entire just-baked blueberry door to my room and weep with near hypo- from the storm. Kevin is sinking his teeth fries loaded with smoked meat and cheese pie and raid the diner’s freezer for several thermic joy at the sunken Jacuzzi tub. I trade into the shop’s signature grass-fed burger, curds. We don’t care about the calories. orders of locally made Island Ice Cream. my tea for a beer from the honor-system bar which is piled with bacon, ham, bleu We’re cycling! The maple bacon flavor is the biggest hit. and don’t get out until it’s time to leave for an cheese, an egg, and a few token veggies It hits the spot. We chow down while The rains abate, and we make a dash Italian eatery in nearby Plattsburgh. on a bun. It’s revolting and delicious at the Mother Nature unleashes her wrath. for Point Au Roche Lodge, which is still With brilliantly clear weather predicted surlybikes.com - 1.877.743.3191 same time. Philip and I order poutine for Torrential rains and dime-sized hail pelt the 20 miles away. Mark and I tuck and pedal. the next morning, a few riders decide to the table. It’s a Québécois specialty (we’re road outside and bounce off passing cars. The sky is steely gray to the northwest, and do dawn patrol and explore Pointe Au Roche State Park before breakfast. It’s an exquisite loop out along the lakeshore and back through farmlands. Mist is rising off the fields as we curve away from the glassy lake. A wind farm in neighboring Peru, New York, looks like a line of floating pinwheels. While POMG tours don’t stay in the fan- ciest inns, the breakfast nearly everywhere they stay is world class. At Pointe Au Roche, breakfast is a personal frittata with goat cheese, bacon, and portabello mush- rooms or blueberry-banana French toast. I opt for eggs, then we head south skirting the bustling city of Plattsburgh on a bike path with more than its share of bike-savvy bunnies that bolt off the trail as we pass. After a stretch on Route 9, we’re on quiet D i s t i n c t i v e B i c y c l i n g Va c a t i o n s s i n c e 19 7 9 back roads that surprise us with some lung- busting hills. The smell of baking frittata had clearly dulled our senses, and we’d missed Mary and Philip’s terrain descrip- tion at the morning’s route review. The only car we see on the route is the support van, which refills our water; loads us with granola bars, bananas, and encouragement; and then cheers us onward. We crest the last hill and descend, still curving around the lake. Vermont is bathed in sunshine, and the lake is sprinkled with sailboats.

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 Our final reward is a five-mile downhill on shockingly gorgeous, it’s hard to say that House Inn. Iced tea and cookies are wait- new pavement into Willsboro. The light one is best, but the ride to the ferry might ing, as are antique four-poster beds in each at the end of the tunnel: the Turtle Island be it. The road rolls past flower gardens room. The rooms are so nice, a couple of The Clubman Era Café, which has Kobe beef burgers and exploding with showy zinnias, iridescent guests have to be encouraged back down- pulled-pork sandwiches already cooking delphinium, sunshine yellow coreopsis, town. This time we go on foot, heading for has returned in anticipation of our arrival. We dine out- pointy purple coneflowers and hollyhocks flatbread and salad at American Flatbread, doors, the Boquet River burbling nearby. that stand at attention, their flowers but- a pillar of the localvore movement. We bail Willsboro was a paper mill town, and it also tons of color up the side of the historic on dessert at the restaurant, and after a stop has a blue limestone quarry. Stone from homes that line the road. The lake fades in at the brass plaque in the sidewalk to mark here was used to build the Brooklyn Bridge and out of view, and just before I crest the the site of the first Ben and Jerry’s, we stroll as well as the State Capitol in Albany. hill into Essex, I can see the ferry chugging over to the scoop shop for a waffle cone of Post lunch, we climb out of town to across the water. Chubby Hubby and Bonnaroo Buzz. roads that could have inspired “America, In Vermont we’re a tribe again. We It’s our last night, and as we walk back to the Beautiful.” We roll through the coun- Classic sight. Vermont really does have countless red barns that dot the lanscape. cross through a covered bridge, curve Lang House, the group is quiet and reflec- tryside, through expansive green fields along Charlotte’s stony beach and past tive. Tomorrow, we’ll ride back to Shore with a backdrop of the jagged Adirondacks. It’s the best bakery in eastern New York, bike — no training wheels! Shelburne Orchard before Mary flags us Acres. For now, we enjoy the pink glow over Three cars pass in the 13 miles between even rivaling bakeries in New York City. The family splits off for an earlier dinner down. Absorbed by the breathtaking scen- the Adirondacks, the glassy lake that’s been Willsboro and Wadhams. Endless seren- Sometimes I look for excuses to go to the while the rest of us sip margaritas lakeside, ery, we had missed the Old Brick Store, our our backdrop all week, and the company of ity, tiny splashes of mustard flowers and Adirondacks just so I can stop here. I am then dine on the catch of the day en plein lunch stop. We hunker down in a farmer’s friends. I started the tour with friends, and clover in the fields, bold black-eyed susans sworn by my tour mates not to reveal aire by candlelight. We watch the pink field for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches as on any bike trip, I’m ending with more. sprouting along the roadside, and the sweet the damage we did to the cookie supply glow of the setting sun before tucking from the van. My legs feel strong, my belly is full, and I silence of a nearly windless day make this a before our final downhill of the day to into our cozy lakefront cabins for a well- Our final stretch into Burlington is have POMG to thank for it. More than 30 religious experience. the Normandy Beach Club. It has a sum- deserved night of rest. on the bike path, which extends all the percent of POMG guests come back each On a bike tour, I pretty much never mer camp feel. Each of us has our own It’s hump day, and those not used to rid- way into the Champlain Islands where we year for another tour. I may live in Vermont, pass up the opportunity to eat. The burg- tidy wooden waterfront kitchenette cabin. ing 50 to 80 miles at a clip are feeling it in started. But Burlington is beckoning. We but it’s likely I’ll be back for more. ers are barely digested when we reach the Mary’s three-and-a-half-year-old daughter their legs. We split on three different route climb up Main Street through a vibrant Dogwood Bakery with its counter fully June visits from across the lake and enter- options, and somehow all miraculously end downtown and over Church Street market- Berne Broudy is a Vermont-based writer, photographer, cyclist and itinerant wanderer. Check out her pics at covered by melt-in-your-mouth cook- tains us all with a demonstration of the up on the same ferry from Essex, New York, place, the city’s pedestrian mall. Our last authenticoutdoors.com and check out her Gear Shed ies, scones, sticky buns, and other treats. progress she is making on riding her own back to Vermont. Every road has been so overnight is at the Queen Anne style Lang blog at outsideonline.com.

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24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 Winding Roads and Olive Groves: Mallorca Ride Camp Yields a Personal Best Photos and story by Sarah Raz

onfession: I am a member was visiting Mallorca. Nearly 40,000 of a private club — the cyclists visit that tiny island each elite, rarely mentioned, year for the literally breathtak- super-special cycling ing climbs and hair-rais- categoryC known as the Secret ing descents located on Slugs. Although we’re hardly the mountainous regions ever talked about, you prob- on the northwestern and ably know one of us — you eastern third of the may even be one of us. We cycle frequently but never push ourselves to the point that we’ll actually get stron- ger. We eschew training rides in favor of cocktails. We love to talk about bicycle technology but somehow manage to slip away island. The climbing in Mallorca is before any of it actually gets put to so fantastic, so stunning, so unrivaled, use. Sound like someone you know? that it has become known as the place Although I’d normally be just fine where pro cyclists go in their off-season to cultivating my sluggish status, the gods train. At one point, I asked an especially of cycling had different ideas for me. A rut and into better riding shape. It didn’t fit-looking cyclist wearing a team uniform few months back, my boyfriend Josh really help matters that the weather in if he was a professional. He wasn’t, but he announced that in November we’d be tak- Missoula, Montana, was, in early October, was thrilled that I’d thought so and gave me ing a two-week self-contained mountain- already taking a sharp turn for the worse. his autograph anyway. bike vacation in Baja, Mexico. Josh is So when I got offered the chance to try Our ride camp wasn’t large. There were anything but a Secret Slug. Pretty much the out Trek Travel’s weeklong Mallorca Ride only seven people, including our tour lead- exact opposite. In fact, sometimes he actu- Camp, I leapt forward and didn’t look back. ers Dave and Logan, who did the important ally wins races. Mallorca is the largest (approximately job of fitting us for our Trek Madones on “There will be very long dry stretches,” 1,400 square miles) of the Balearic Islands, the first afternoon while we checked in he said. “Where we have to carry enough located in the Mediterranean Sea and just a and unpacked. What a pleasure to have my water for several days. Do you think you hop, skip, and jump (by plane or boat) off bicycle waiting for me at my destination! can do it?” the coast of Spain. An unbelievably warm No worrying about my beloved bike get- “Of course, I can!” I said indignantly and arid Mediterranean climate — like ting lost or banged up en route, no charges and stormed away. someone turned the sun on and forgot to for oversized luggage, just a perfectly fitted Honestly? I wasn’t sure. I didn’t want to turn it off — is what keeps the tourists carbon-fiber bike set up to suit my every disappoint him, but I did need some help coming in droves from all over Europe. whim. “Let me know if something doesn’t getting myself out of my Secretly Sluggish That and the white-sand beaches complete work for you and I’ll change it right away,” with palm-topped umbrellas, lined like said Dave after I came back from a brief Ancient defenses. The author pedals past a soldiers at attention beside the aquamarine ride around the nearby tiny town of Santa retaining wall that features stone work typical bay. Maria, giddy with the lightness of my car- of Mallorca near the village of Bunyola. Although those beaches called to this bon wheels. “This,” I thought, “is the kind Secret Slug, they were not the reason I of treatment I could get used to.” Because I was the only female rider on the trip, I was given a single room in the delightful Hotel Reads, which was to act as our base camp for the next six nights. Hotel Reads, an old estate brought back from ruin in 1998, is now a small hotel and res- taurant. The manicured gardens, gorgeous touring ride in palm trees, and vineyards that surround the building added to the air of relaxation rural indiana® and tranquility that seemed to settle like a serene cloud around the entire resort. A TRIRI® presents three events sparkling sapphire lap pool that seemed in 2012, visiting Indiana’s brighter still against the white sun umbrel- beautiful state parks las was just a few short steps from my back patio. At the front desk, I was given a key along lightly traveled, to the spa room with the heated pool, and scenic routes. I flipped through the guest book. A few days before, an entry had been written that overnights in made me do a double take: “Thanks for the state parks great hospitality; I’ll be back soon!” – Halle Berry. Catered breakfasts At the beginning of the trip, each rider was given a list of the rides as well as cue & dinners sheets to keep us all on track. The first rides were relatively easy with only a moderate triri® amount of climbing, while the rides at the end of the week were closer to 90 miles with Bicycle rally 2012: around 9,000 feet of climbing. We were June 10-13 at informed that breakfast would be served McCormick’s Creek State Park Not a postcard. Vistas in Mallorca reveal stunning beauty on a climb-by-climb basis. at 8:00 AM, the support van would leave Explore the significance of at 9:00 AM with our lunches, and the rest ho w a r d full me Salem limestone to the region of the day was ours to enjoy. And so, after waking up to sunlight sifting into my win- me the numbers!” I squealed, somehow rider, and I can tell you’re not, there’s no on a series of loop rides New Years Resolution: BIGGER Adventures dow and feasting on a delicious breakfast of convinced that having something to count way you’ll be able to hold that pace for the from a single state park croissants, fresh yogurts and fruits, cheeses, up to would work against me. In the back next eight miles uphill.” and glass upon glass of thick, delicious café of my mind, though, I was sure I could do I wanted to ask her how she was so rAiNStorM™ 2012: con leche, it was time to get my sluggish it. My legs felt strong, and I couldn’t wait certain I wasn’t an elite rider, but I was July 16-21 backside on the saddle and hit the road. to make them stronger. Given enough of gasping so hard for breath I couldn’t gather Because most of the other riders had these delicious cappuccinos topped with a a full sentence together. Instead, I did the Five century been on Trek Travel (trektravel.com) trips dollop of whipped cream, I could probably sensible thing and slowed my pace enough rides over five together before, they already knew each summit Everest. so that I could finally gasp, “Another … days, with 160 other. I chose to mix up my days by rid- Bestowed with a newfound sense of eight … miles?!” miles on day six ing occasionally with the larger group, confidence, the next morning I began my Mallorca is training ground not just to sometimes with other riders that I met out ride at lightning speed. In retrospect, this road cyclists but also to many other athletes on the road, and every so often alone. The was probably a mistake as the second day’s who enjoy its varied terrain and moderate SEPtEMBEr first day out, I left with the pack. Scott, a ride was about twice as long and hilly as climate all year round. Golfers, runners, ESCAPADE™ 2012: lawyer from Palo Alto, suggested that we the first day’s outing. As I hit the bottom of and mountain bikers flock to the island September 16-21 try to stop at every espresso shop that we the first climb at maximum speed, I heard to enjoy some top-notch training in the Southeastern Indiana passed along the way — a plan that I, of a voice at my left elbow ask, “Do you ride sunshine. At one point, as I was snacking course, immediately got on board with. here often?” on some almonds, an entire team of men It wasn’t long before we hit gold in the “Well, no,” I said. “This is my first wearing tiny shorts, heart-rate monitors, Introducing the 2012 Co-Motion Divide sleepy town of Soller, famous for its orange time.” and very long Rollerblades shot by me at Master the continent’s most remote paths with the sure footed stride of groves and olive terraces. We all piled our That was Kristina, and it turned out she a shockingly high speed. I couldn’t believe our 29” wheeled Divide. No pavement? No problem: Divide and conquer. bikes up against the side of the open-air did ride here often because she lived here. my eyes and thought for a moment that the café and ordered our mid-morning treats. She’d ridden up this monstrous mountain combination of sun and exercise was mak- The air still felt cool, and it was agreeable three times that past week, in fact. She was ing me hallucinate. When I reported back to get something warm — later it would my savior for the next few hours as she to my trip leaders, however, they didn’t www.triri.org www.co-motion.com • (866) 282-6336 be soothing to have the cold white wine coached me up and down the climbs. seem surprised at all and informed me that (812) 333-8176 waiting at our hotel. We talked about all “You’re starting off way too quickly for the group was almost certainly a ski-team the climbing the week held. “Don’t give one thing,” she said. “Unless you’re an elite training in their off season. “Those long

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 Rollerblades are called roller skis, Sarah,” said Logan, “and it’s not nice to point and laugh at people, even if they are only wear- ing tiny shorts and Rollerblades.” There was a variety of things to do on 0WYSB]c`a our day off. I chose to start my day with a yoga class at the Read’s Vespasian Spa. I was W\3c`]^S looking forward to stretching out after two and a half days of hard riding and prepar- @S^`SaS\bW\U3c`]^SO\ PWYSb]c`Q][^O\WSa ing myself for the hardest days yet. As the instructor talked us through each pose and =dS` `]cbSaW\!Q]c\b`WSa reminded us to be mindful in each breath, I ;O\geSSYZgROWZgRS^O`bc`Sa felt — as is so rare — really present in my 1cab][b]c`aOdOWZOPZS body. My muscles felt slightly sore, but not in a bad way. They just felt used and grate- ful for a rest. As I lay down on my back for a few minutes of stillness at the end of class, I thought about what Chuck from Denver had said to me as we were riding into our hotel the night before. We were amazed Bombs away. A Trek Travel participant flies down another swooping descent. both with our accomplishments and the beauty that surrounded us. switchback after switchback with a pleas- couldn’t have been happier when we crest- “Isn’t this the life, Sarah?” he’d said. antly cantankerous couple from Belgium. ed the final climb and had a magnificent “Riding in Mallorca with a tailwind. Isn’t She was a dentist and he was a doctor, and view of the Mediterranean, sparkling like life grand?” after they’d complained about the weather some rare jewel. To make things even bet- Rodrigo dubbed Day Five the “Queen in Belgium (“horribly rainy”) and the ter- ter, there was a roadside kiosk that served Stage” of our ride camp, and the name was rain (“flat”), they moved on to American espresso drinks and cookies, and for one fitting. At around 80 miles and more than cities (“vapid”). We could all agree that this pure moment, nobody complained because 9,000 feet of climbing, it was a ruthless day. climbing was getting rather tiresome, no our mouths were stuffed full.

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30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 slightly overcast skies. Our last day of terraces and vineyards made way to weath- curiously from the shore, and I waved at riding proved slightly cool and windy, a er-beaten crags. The smooth-as-butter road them merrily. Then I lay back and let the sharp contrast to our previous week of sun- became narrower and more uneven, and we salty, warm water wash over me. I held my drenched riding. We were all excited about pulled over to watch the dark blue water breath and ducked my head under water. I 2012 Bicycle Events List compiled by Adventure Cycling Association staff. the day’s adventure despite the clouds — a swirl thousands of feet beneath us, batter- stayed submerged for as long as I possibly meandering route that climbed through the ing the island relentlessly. The lighthouse could, exhaling every last bit of air out of ALABAMA: Alabama’s Passage Sept. 29-Oct. 6, western portion of Mallorca and ended at was majestic in its stark, lonely form, the my lungs. Magnificent Bicycling adventurecycling.org/tours, Adventure May 19-26, 800-755-2453 the luminous lighthouse Cap de Formentor. clouds gathered ominously behind it. Boats That evening, I said goodbye to my new amba1.com Scott was especially excited about the ride. looked like toys in the water beneath the friends, packed up my cycling clothes, and Tour de Monts June 29- ALASKA: Clean Air July 1, baltobikeclub.org The evening before, he’d decided he’d had grand structure and most of us ate our then went and stretched out luxuriously Challenge May 12-13, MASSACHUSETTS: lungusa.org/associations/ enough of the hills and opted to use one baguettes in relative silence, punctuated on my bed. I brushed a few stray clumps of Autumn Escape Bike states/alaska/local-events, of Trek’s electric assist bicycles for the by bursts of laughter. I’d purchased some sand off my feet that had stuck around from Trek Sept. 28-30, lungusa. 907-644-6411. day. The bike would max out at around 18 fake pearls at a gas station earlier in the day the afternoon and then allowed myself to org/associations/charters/ ARKANSAS: Bicycle Ride new-england/events/cycle/ miles per hour on the flats, but he’d be able (Mallorca is famous for pearl production), be really proud of all that I’d accomplished Around Arkansas April aebt, [email protected] 2-7, arkansasbicycleclub.org to get an extra charge when the rest of us and everyone tried them on. We couldn’t over the past week. I’d gone into this ride a Mass BikePike Tour Aug. were crawling up the switchbacks. “You believe we were leaving a place of such Secret Slug, with no belief in my strength, River 2 River Memorial 2-5, massbikepike.org, info@ all better watch out for me on the hills,” enchantment. my riding ability, or my endurance. And Ride May 26-30, massbikepike.org river2riverride.com he gloated as we crowded around to watch “But how can you visit a Mediterranean I’d emerged stronger and more powerful, Pan Mass Challenge him climb on his new ride. “I’m going to be island without taking a dip in the my muscles ready to take on the next chal- ARIZONA: Luna Lake Aug. 4-5, pmc.org, Tour May 26-28, Blue Loop 800-932-9253 just like Lance Armstrong.” Mediterranean Sea?” Rodrigo asked. I had lenge, my legs ready to take on the next Tour Sept. 1-3, bikegaba.org MICHIGAN: Dick Alan As soon as we left, the wind began to to agree with him, you just plain couldn’t. climb. My next cycling adventure lies just J&P Tucson Tour Lansing to Mackinaw howl. “Hunker in behind me!” Scott called So, after our guides had loaded our bikes around the corner, and thanks to my expe- Feb. 17-20, pmbcaz.org Bicycle Tour (DALMAC) Aug. 29 - Sept. 2, dalmac. to me. “I’ll pull you in!” And, almost effort- atop the van, we convinced the ever-will- rience on the dazzling island of Mallorca, TOS RV PHOTO BY BR AD B O L TON Arizona Road Adventure org, dalmacnotices.blogspot. lessly, he did, although he breezed away ing Logan to stop off at a nearby beach and I’m more than ready to take it on. Mar. 10-16, Grand Canyon TOSRV/51. The oldest event on our list is Ohio’s venerable Tour of the Scioto com from me as soon as we hit an incline of any let us all out again. Nobody (except the – Van (I and II), Sept. 8-14; River Valley, now in its 51st year. Sarah Raz lives in Missoula, Montana with her fiance, 16-22, 800-755-2453, Great Lakes Relaxed type. “This bike is amazing!” gushed Scott forward-thinking Rodrigo) had thought to adventurecycling.org/tours Sept. 8-15, adventurecycling. March 24-30, bikeflorida. INDIANA: Cover Indiana Josh and her cat, Phinney. She loves adventuring by Solvang Spring Tour org/tours, 800-755-2453 as I pedaled furiously behind him, ashen bring a suit, but I was happy to dive into bike and eating ice cream, and, in case you were won- CALIFORNIA: March 26-31, planetultra. org, 352-224-8601 May Date to be determined, Aids/LifeCycle web.ics.purdue.edu/~habitat Michigander July from the effort. “I’m totally getting one!” the crystal clear, bath-warm water still dering, she had a fabulous time in Baja. You can read com/sst, embassy@ BubbaFest Nov. 3-10, June 3-9, aidslifecycle.org, /coverindiana.php 14-20, michigantrails.org/ We neared the lighthouse, and the olive clad in spandex. Some tourists eyed me her bloggings at blog.adventurecycling.org. planetultra.com bubbafestbiketours.com, 415-581-7083 michigander-bicycle-tour, 321-759-3433 Amishland and Lakes Wine & Harvest Aug. 517-485-6022 California Coast August 3-5, amishlandlakes. 11-17, adventurecycling.org/ Florida Bicycle Classic Sept. 9-16 com, 574-387-6449 Michigan’s Upper tours, 800-755-2453 Safari April 21-26, (2-day option: 15-16), Peninsula (MUP) Tour floridabicyclesafari.com, TRIRI: June Bicycle Rally californiacoastclassic.org, Winter Oasis July 14-21; Shoreline floridabicyclesafari@ June 10-13, RAINSTORM 800-954-2873 Feb. 26-March 3, West Bicycle Tour Aug. floridafreewheelers.com July 16-21, September americabybicycle.com, 5-11; Sunrise Bicycle California Ride & Retreat Escapade Sept. 16-21, triri. ® 888-797-7057 Suwannee Spring Tour June 15-17, lmb. PLANO/POWER HYBRID EYEWEAR May 10-13, hazon.org, org, 812-333-8176 Festival May 4-6, org/index.php/Events, 415-397-7020 COLORADO: Bicycle Tour of Colorado June 17-23, suwanneebike.org/sbf.htm, IOWA: Register’s Annual 888-642-4537 Central California April 321-698-6004 Great Bike Ride Across bicycletourcolorado.com, Pedal Around Lake 28-May 5; Solvang Spring Iowa July 22-28, ragbrai.org 303-985-1180 GEORGIA: Bicycle Ride Michigan (PALM) June Week April 8-14, shop. Across Georgia (BRAG) KANSAS: Biking Across 23-29, lmb.org/palm, cascade.org/content/tours/ Colorado Wildflowers & June 2-9; Georgia Kansas June 9-16, bak.org, 734-669-0172 local-tours, 206-522-3222 Rivers Aug.11-17, Bike Fest Oct. 14-16; 316-772-0960 adventurecycling.org/tours, Wish-A-Mile Bicycle Tour Climate Ride California Spring Tune Up April 800-755-2453 Cottonwood 200 May July 26-29, wishmich.org/ Sept. 9-13, climateride.org, 20-22; Winter Ride 26-28, cottonwood200.org, wam 406-871-5477 Colorado Rocky February 21-26, brag.org, [email protected] Mountain Bike Tour 770-498-5153 MINNESOTA: Bike MS: Cycling for Sight July Aug 4-11, crmbt.com, KENTUCKY: Old MS Tram July 22-27; MS 13-15, cyclingforsight.org, IDAHO: Ride Idaho Aug. 720-379-5593 Kentucky Home Tour 150 June 8-10, bikemnm. 619-583-1542 5-11, rideidaho.org, ridaho@ okht.org, Date to be nationalmssociety.org, Denver Post Pedal rideidaho.org Emigrant Trails Bike Trek the Plains Sept. 21-23, determined 800-582-5296 Sept. 7-9, sacbreathe.org/ Trail of the Coeur pedaltheplains.com, Grand Autumn Bicycle Red Ribbon Ride July trek, 916-444-5900 d’Alene July 27-30, shop. 303-954-6701 Ride Across Kentucky 19-22, redribbonride.org, cascade.org/content/tours/ Great Western Bicycle (GABRAKY), gabraky.com, 612-822-2110 Denver Post Ride the local-tours, 206-522-3222 Rally May 25-28, Date to be determined Rockies June 9-15, Habitat 500 July 15-21, greatwesternbicyclerally.com, ILLINOIS: Grand Illinois ridetherockies.com, MAINE: Lobster Ride habitat500.org, 612-331- 562-455-0157 Trail & Parks (GITAP) 303-954-6700 Maine Bike Rally July 6-8, 4439 x 4 June 10-15, bikelib.org/ HI-USA Christmas mainebikerally.org Family Fun, Colorado maps-and-rides/rides/gitap, Bicycling Around Bike Trip Dec. 26-31, Aug. 4-9, adventurecycling. 603-978-0583 Trek Across Maine Minnesota (BAM) Aug. sandiegohostels.org, org/tours, 800-755-2453 June 15-17, lungusa.org/ 23-26, bambiketour.org, 619-806-1284. Bicycle Illinois July associations/charters/ 651-335-6505 CONNECTICUT: Angel 7-14, bicycleillinois.com, NorCal Aids Cycle May new-england/events/cycle/, Ride May 26-27, 877-868-7455 MISSOURI: Family Fun, 17-20, norcalaidschallenge.net 207-624-0312 angelride.org Katy Trail June 30 - July 6, Le Tour de Shore June Sierra to the Sea June MARYLAND: C&O adventurecycling.org/tours, FLORIDA: Bike Florida: 15-16, letourdeshore.com 16-23, sierratothesea.org, Forgotten Coast Canal/Great Allegheny 800-755-2453

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 GEARED UP - 2

MONTANA: TOSRV West NEW HAMPSHIRE: Highlander Cycle Tour of the Scioto River SOUTH DAKOTA: Moab Century Tour WASHINGTON: Cycle Flavors of Wisconsin /fundraising-events, Harrison Hot Springs May 19-20, missoulabike. Seacoast Bike Tour Tour Sept. 7-9, Valley (TOSRV) May 12-13, Mickelson Trail Trek Sept. 21-23; Moab Skinny Washington July 7-14, July 9-16; Northern 800-732-9339 Resort Aug 23-26, shop. org/tosrvwest May 19-20, breathenh.org highlandercycletour.com tosrv.org, 614-442-7901 Sept. 14-16, gfp.sd.gov/ Tire Festival March 10-13, adventurecycling.org/tours, Woods & Waters Aug. cascade.org/content/tours/ Climate Ride New York state-parks/directory/ skinnytireevents.com, 800-755-2453 20-25, aroundwisbike.com, local-tours, 206-522-3222 Cycle Montana June NEW MEXICO: Santa NORTH CAROLINA: OKLAHOMA: Oklahoma City to Washington, DC mickelson-trail/trail-trek. 435-259-3193 920-427-6086 23-29; Cycle the Divide Fe Century May 20, Cycle North Carolina Freewheel June RedSpoke July 18-22, May 19-23, climateride.org New England Classic July aspx, 605-584-3896 Montana July 14-20, santafecentury.com, Fall: Sept. 30-Oct. 6; 10-16, okfreewheel.com, Southern Utah National redspoke.org, info@ Get Your Guts in Gear 14-20 (2-day option July C&O Canal Gap Sept. adventurecycling.org/tours, [email protected] Spring Ride April 13-15, 918-344-5987 Tour de Kota June Parks shop.cascade.org/ redspoke.org Sept. 7-9, ibdride.org, 14-15), newenglandclassic. 29-Oct. 6; Family Fun, 800-755-2453 cnc.ncsports.org, cyclenc@ 17-22, tourdekota.com, content/tours/local-tours, 866-944-6848 org, 888-342-2383 x 3456 NEW YORK: Bon Ton OREGON: Cycle Oregon Seattle to Portland C&O Canal July 8-14, ncsports.org 605-331-2200 206-522-3222 Glacier National Park Roulet July 22-28, Sept. 8-15, Cycle Oregon Bicycle Classic (STP) July Great Annual Bicycle adventurecycling.org/tours, Tour de Rouge Houston Aug. 4-11, shop.cascade. bontonroulet.com, NORTH DAKOTA: Weekend Ride July TENNESSEE: Bike Tour of Southern Utah 14-15; Ride from Seattle Adventure Along 800-755-2453 to New Orleans, May 6-11, org/content/tours/local- 315-253-5304 CANDISC Aug. 4-11, 13-15, cycleoregon.com, Ride Across Tennessee Sept. 2-8, planetultra.com/ to Vancouver (RSVP) the Wisconsin River tourderouge.org Cycle America offers tours, 206-522-3222 parkrec.nd.gov/activities/ 800-292-5367 (BRAT) Sept. 8-15, thebrat. Utah, embassy@planetultra. Aug. 17-18; 18-19; Ride (GRABAAWR) June Cycling the Erie Canal cross-country rides that Tri-State Ride July candisc.html, 800-799-4242 org com Around Washington 16-23; Bike Northwoods Montana Bicycle Ride July 8-15; Great Hudson Oregon Bicycle Ride July can be ridden as individual 11-15, shuttleguytours.com, (RAW) Aug. 4-10, cascade. July 7-13; Schramm’s Aug. 4-11, bicycleridesnw. Valley Pedal July 31-Aug. Bike the Border June 21-28, bicycleridesnw.org, TEXAS: Easter Hill VERMONT: Vermont state and regional 800-675-2295 org, 206-522-3222 Annual Great Bicycle org, 541-382-2633 5, ptny.org/biketourintro, 22-24, biketheborder.com 541-382-2633 Country Tour April 6-8, Bike and Brewery events, cycleamerica.com, Ride Across Wisconsin WaCanId Sept. 17-22, 518-434-1583 ehct.com, ride.ehct@gmail. Challenge June 10-15 and Eastern Washington June 800-245-3263 Park-2-Park OHIO: Across Ohio Oregon Coastal (SAGBRAW) July 28 - wacinid.org, 888-823-2626 com June 17-22, mountmajor. 1-4; San Juan Islands Montana Sept. 10-14, Five Boro Bike Tour Bicycle Adventure Odyssey Aug. 18-24, Aug. 3, bikewisconsin.com, Freedom Flyer Sept. 8-16, com, 888-448-5876 July 13-16; Willamette CANADA: (XOBA) July 21-28, adventurecycling.org/tours, Texas Hill Country April 608-843-8412 adventurecycling.org/tours, park2parkmontana.org, May 6, bikenewyork.org, Valley Cruise June 17-23; 866-863-2272 212-870-2080 outdoor-pursuits.org/xoba, 800-755-2453 7-13, adventurecycling.org/ VIRGINIA: Bike Virginia 800-755-2453 Yakima Hill Country May WYOMING: Tour de VerMontreal May 216-272-7436 tours, 800-755-2453 June 22-27, bikevirginia.org, 31-June 3, localmotion.org/ NEBRASKA: Bicycle Ride Five Hundred Miles PENNSYLVANIA: Penn 18-21, shop.cascade.org/ Wyoming July 15-20, Fuller Center Bicycle 804-859-4820 vermontreal, 802-861-2700 Across Nebraska (BRAN) Across New York (FANY) Great Ohio Bicycle Central June 26-July UTAH: Bike Ride content/tours/local-tours, cyclewyoming.org, Tour Cross-country June 3-9, bran-inc.org, Ride July 22-28, fanyride. Adventure (GOBA) 2; Southern Crossing Across Scenic Utah Blue Ridge Bliss June 206-522-3222 307-742-5840 (affordable home-building) NATIONAL BIKE 402-397-9785 com, 518-461-7646 June 16-23, goba.com, June 25-30, pedalpa.com, (BRASU) June 2-17; Bike 2-8, adventurecycling.org/ rides that can be broken WISCONSIN: ACT 10: NATIONAL & REGIONAL: TOUR DIRECTOR’S 614-273-0811 215-520-5758 Ride Across Northern tours, 800-755-2453 into segments, fullercenter. ASSOCIATION: Online Tour de Nebraska June Get Your Guts in Gear: Wisconsin Aids Ride Aug. Utah (BRANU) June America By Bicycle org/bikeadventure, listing of major bike events, 20-24, tourdenebraska.com, New York June 8-10; Pan Ohio Hope Ride July PUERTO RICO: La Vuelta Little Switzerland 2-5, 800-486-6276, actride. 23-30; GRUB Fest Various cross-country and 229-924-2900 nbtda.com 402-421-1401 Wisconsin Sept. 7-9, 26-29, panohiohoperide.org, Puerto Rico Jan. 27-29, May 11-14; Southern org, 608-252-6540 Sept. 1-3, bike2bike.biz, regional bike events abbike. ibdride.org, 866-944-6848 888-227-6446 x 1222 vueltapr.com, info@vueltapr. Shenandoah Sites Greenway Sojourn NEVADA: OATBRAN 877-264-7876 Bike Ride Exploring com, 888-797-7057 com and Shows May 24-28, different location each year, Sept. 23-29, bikethewest. The New York Jewish Sweet Corn Challenge Wisconsin (BREW) Aug. Cycle Utah June 9-15, bestofvabiketours.com, Big Ride Across America June 17-24, railstotrails.org/ com, 800-565-2704 Environmental Bike Ride July 29, sweetcornride.com, SOUTH CAROLINA: 5-10; Wisconsin State adventurecycling.org/tours, 540-461-0781 June 18-Aug. 5, lungusa. getinvolved/findanevent/ Aug. 31-Sept. 3, hazon.org/ 330-659-3300 FestiVELO Nov. 7-12, Parks Ride (WISPRIDE) 800-755-2453 org/associations/charters/ sojourn, 202-331-9696 programs/new-york-ride, festivelo.org, 843-303-3334 Tour de Trees Oct. 5-11, June 5-10, shuttleguytours. mountain-pacific 212-644-2332 stihltourdestrees.org, com, 800-675-2295 630-369-8300

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June 9-15, 2012

Alabama’s Magnificent Bicycle Adventure maine Come Explore Lower Alabama, the Gulf Shores & Mobile Bay! AMBA is different than other 7 day bike rides: Rockland, Maine • AMBA is staged in one location • While you bike, your non-biking and has out and back loops every mate and kids can go sightsee- Saturday, July 21st, 2012 day. ing, golfing, shopping, go-karting, swimming, or just relaxing on lobster • Since AMBA is staged in the beach and still meet you for Maine’s most scenic and tasty bike rides one location, you set up and dinner! break down camp just once, 16, 30, 50 and 100 mile rides to choose from plus a fresh lobster roll dinner For more and, your car is available information go to: Bicycle coalition of maine 207-623-4511 www.Bikemaine.org May 19-26, 2012 every night. www.amba1.com

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 marvel at the tales of fortitude “You folks ready to get moving?” our and endurance I read on these Belgian captain, Willy Coupe, 58, asked pages as cyclists take on moun- after the last of our group had clambered tains and deserts and the chal- aboard the Sailing Home, found the cof- Bike lenge of the long, open road. feepot, and been sized for bikes — solid But, truth be told, at age 70, I 24-speed, Shimano-geared Gazelles, manu- no longer can identify with the factured by a Dutch company that has pro- riders, athough once, years ago, I biked duced 13 million bicycles since its found- Ialone across the U.S. So I start with a dis- ing in 1892. claimer: this isn’t a real adventure story. It’s Amsterdam was soon behind us. We a story about how a gang of Social Security headed into Holland’s countryside, biking recipients head overseas every summer for along canals and rivers lined with toiling a leisurely cycling holiday on a private windmills, through 16th-century villages tour we customize ourselves to take into with cathedrals and towering bell towers, account our age and abilities, our penchant everything green and flat and feeling so for comfort, and our aversion to the no-pain Dutch you expected to see people wearing no-gain philosophy. wooden shoes. There were cyclists every- Barge& That’s why I was on the piers of a where: men in business suits pedaling to small harbor in downtown Amsterdam work; women with kids’ seats taking their in Northern Europe on a breezy morning last June to greet 18 children to school; and teenagers on dates. friends from the U.S. who had signed up for Not surprising, perhaps, considering that, another escapade of what they call “Dave’s with 17,000 miles of bike lanes and more Dream Team.” A dozen barges that had O’Callahan came back with a reasonable bicycles than people, the Netherlands sure- been converted into passenger ships, each quote and I emailed a bunch of friends: ly rates as the world’s most bicycle-friendly by David Lamb with about 10 cabins and bicycles on the “Sandy and I have signed up for this pri- country. deck, swayed in the water. I was looking vate bike trip. Want to join?” 16 did. We passed into Belgium the third day for the vessel Sailing Home, which I had On that trip, everyone knew Sandy and and docked for the night in Ghent, Captain chartered for $29,327 for a week-long, 200- me; most didn’t know each other. The risk Coupe’s hometown, just behind the house- mile bike-and-barge trip from Amsterdam of incompatibility lurked. But, just a few boat on which he lives. His family came to Bruges, a medieval city in Belgium. miles down the road, it became apparent aboard for dinner and drinks. Coupe has Before you gasp at the price — for 20 that a shared adventure, even a tame one, been hauling cargo and passengers over people, including my wife and me — it breeds a congenial cohesion. Several rid- Europe’s waterways since he went to work works out to $1,466 per passenger. Not ers who hadn’t cycled in years feared they as a teenager on his parents’ barge 40 years bad for seven nights on a spiffy floating couldn’t handle 30 miles. They were soon ago. A friend recently tried to recruit him hotel, three meals a day, bicycle rentals, appeased. That’s the beauty of a bicycle. to pilot one of the large cruise ships that and a first-rate guide who rides every mile It rises to meet you at your level of ability. carry tourists on overnight routes like with you, knows the region’s history and Since then, we’ve biked France three Budapest to Prague. The money was better, the best cafés and pubs along the way, and times, the Cotswolds of England, Sweden, but he decided to stick with the cycling can fix flats and cranky derailers in a flash. New Zealand, Holland, and the Danube crowd. My work as pro bono, self-appointed River bike path from Passau Germany, to “I just prefer to work in a family atmo- tour organizer of the Dream Team began Vienna. For the last four years, the same 20 sphere, and that’s what you get when you when a large U.S. cycling company cancelled riders — the maximum I allow to keep the take on a couple dozen bicyclists sharing on short notice a tour of Ireland’s Dingle size of the group manageable — have made a week on the water and the bike paths,” Peninsula that four of us had booked. On our rides and now it’s as though all were said Coupe, who helped set tables and the Internet, I found a family-run cycling lifelong chums. “I block off the first week dry dishes when he was moored. In the outfit in Killarney, Cycle Ireland, that let in June every January even if I don’t know evening, the crew — guide, cook, and two me personalize a tour. I had the call on where we’re going,” one of them said. The mates — would gather in his wheel room, daily mileage (about 30), terrain (hills okay, deal I’ve made with the Dream Team is that and the place would ripple with storytell- not mountains), quality of hotels/inns and anyone who joins a tour gets an automatic ing and laughter. restaurants (top notch), daily luggage trans- invitation the next year. If they skip one, If the idea of putting together your fers (essential), and length of tour (eight they go on a waiting list, which now stands own private tour sounds appealing, here days, one afternoon off). Ciaran and Mary at eight. are some suggestions. First, be selective in BARGE - 2

TGFT-AdventureCyclist-12a.pdf 1 12/12/11 1:49 PM

your invitations and leave the complainers, resource that lists more than 150 routes in off from pedaling, you can stay onboard whiners, obsessive talkers, and dullards 27 countries. You’ll find detailed itinerar- while the vessel slips through canals, riv- at home. Build into your itinerary plenty ies for each tour, the daily mileage and ers, and locks en route to the night’s stop- of time to smell the roses and dawdle in terrain, and the cost and the dates they’re over. And, the captain can drop you off at cafés and towns, castles and museums. At offered. You often have a choice of cycling different places to make the day’s cycling the end of the day, it’s the experience, not on your own or having a guide. There’s also distance longer or shorter. Sunday - June 3, 2012 the speed or miles, that matters. Design a a special listing for bike-and-barge tours, a The Sailing Home, 132 feet long and Stateline/Lake Tahoe, NV/CA - 21st Annual America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. trip everyone can handle. You can keep niche market for cyclists that started about diesel powered, started its life in 1927, car- This ride promotes Lake Tahoe Bikeway, the plan to build and interconnect both the serious cyclist and the faint of 20 years ago and is now offered in Holland, rying sand and stone. In 2000, as the bike- bike lanes/trails around Lake Tahoe, and is the culmination of the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society's National Team In Training spring heart happy with two daily overlapping Belgium, Germany, and France. and-barge business grew, it was redesigned fund raising program. 3000 participants. itineraries of, say, 25 and 50 miles. The tour This was the second year our group and rebuilt, with an attractive, wood-pan- At the helm. Captain Willy Coupe. company should be able to accomplish this chose a bike-and-barge tour, and we set eled restaurant and lounge and an outdoor Sunday - June 24, 2012 by finding shortcuts that trim miles off the off every morning on our bikes and caught sunning area on the top deck, and 14 a cell number to call if we had break- Genoa, NV - 5th Annual Tour of the beautiful Carson Valley and Barbecue & cabins, each with private facilities, on the downs or problems. Generally, though, I Ice Cream Social. 44-Mile, 20-Mile Bike & Hike & Family Fun Ride. Live lower deck. In keeping with the family don’t know anyone who regretted having a music, BBQ & Ice Cream Social. atmosphere, we poured our own cocktails guide, and I’ve never known a guide who Sunday - Sept 9, 2012 and wine in the evening and marked an wasn’t helpful and sociable. Lake Tahoe, NV - 10th Annual. Another opportunity to enjoy the end honor sheet with our purchases, to be paid Our ace in the hole this year was Piet of summer and ride around Tahoe’s 72-mile shoreline. It will also at the end of the journey. de Joode, who speaks five languages. He offer our famous sightseeing Boat Cruise / 35-Mile Fun Ride. Limited The sun didn’t set until nearly 10:00 leads bike tours in the summer and teaches to 2000 participants.

PM, leaving us ample time after dinner to ice skating in the winter. “We’ll head to ONE Sept 23 - 29, 2012 AWESOME explore the towns and cities where we the forest; we’ll be drier there,” he said TOUR 21st Annual “One Awesome Tour Bike Ride Across Nevada.” Fully U.S.

docked. In Gouda we bought rounds of the one afternoon after rain clouds that had supported multi-day tour across the Silver State on US Hwy 50 - America’s BIKE 50 RIDE town’s famous cheese. In the Turkish quar- toyed with us throughout the day cut loose Loneliest Road, from the beauty of Lake Tahoe to the grandeur of the Great ACROSS NEVADA America’s Loneliest Bike Tour ter of Ghent, we found an Internet café to with a deluge. He altered course, picked Basin National Park. Limited to 50 riders. A partial ride option may be available depending on rider signups and interest. catch up on emails and baseball scores. All up a network of connecting trails, and four of us — nine couples and two singles — miles later we were under an umbrella of For More Info call 1-800-565-2704 sauntered through Antwerpen’s infamous overhanging boughs. Armed with a GPS, or go to red light district, separated by only a few he kept us off heavily traveled roads, knew bikethewest.com blocks from the city’s magnificent central obscure paved lanes that led us onward, plaza. I don’t think we asked a question swept the route at each turn to make sure that our Dutch guide couldn’t answer. we hadn’t lost anyone, and, most impor- What level of support do you need on tant, found the Sailing Home at the end of a private tour? It depends on the tour. In each day. the Cotswolds, we had no guide. In New We almost felt betrayed the last night in Full-service SAG. Members of the group ride past their home away from wheels. Zealand, Steven and Tania MacKay, the Bruges when de Joode removed our name Christchurch couple who ran our tour, tags from the handlebars and began prepar- longer route. up with the boat in a different town every provided a van to carry us and our bikes ing the bikes for a new group that would The most essential element, of course, is afternoon. This type of tour offers casual over the Southern Alps and even served an board the next day for the return trip to finding the right overseas tour. But where? cyclists some distinct advantages over our elegant English-style tea along the side of Amsterdam. It was as though Sailing Home There’s a bewildering array of them, from earlier trips that carried us inn-to-inn over the road each day. In Ireland we didn’t have had become our private retreat and no one Armenia to Vietnam. Start your search land. First, you only unpack and pack once a guide, but the company gave us detailed had the right to trespass. at biketours.direct.com, an invaluable during the week. Second, if you want time route maps every morning and offered “Tell me truthfully, Piet,” one rider said, “aren’t you going to remember us as the best group you’ve ever had?” I had to agree The Amgen People’s Coast Classic Discover the beauty of the Oregon Coast with Bob. It was a spirited group that didn’t 6-day Ride 2-day Ride 4-day Ride show its age. There wasn’t a deadbeat in the lot. I didn’t see a scowl or hear a growl Full Oregon Coast North Coast Ride Central-South Coast Ride all week. • Astoria to Brookings • Astoria to Newport • Newport to Brookings “Bob,” de Joode answered with a wink, • September 9-14, 2012 • September 9-11, 2012 • September 11-14, 2012 “by 2:00 PM tomorrow, when I’m taking • 6 days, 360 miles • 2 days, 150 miles • 4 days, 210 miles the new group into Ghent, you’ll be erased • 25-82 miles/day • Limited to first 25 people • Limited to first 25 people from my memory and be gone forever.” • Open to all David Lamb is an eight-time Pulitzer Prize nominee who has traveled the world for 25 years as a Los Angeles Times correspondent and is the author of six books, including Over The Hills: A Midlife Escape thepeoplescoastclassic.org Across America by Bicycle.

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 Bicycle Tour Operators / Advertisers Listed below are the bicycle tour companies that advertise in vouch for them, but feel their support makes them worthy of high- Adventure Cyclist. Besides supporting this magazine and Adventure lighting here. A comprehensive listing of tour operators, advertisers or Cycling Association with advertising dollars, they’re willing to invest not, is available at adventurecycling.org/cyp. money to be seen by Adventure Cyclist readers. We can’t necessarily

Adventure Cycling Association Charleston Bicycle Tours Great Explorations Siciclando adventurecycling.org/tours charlestonbicycletours.com great-explorations.com siciclando.com 800-755-2453 800-408-1830 800-242-1825 800-881-0484 Adventure South Classic Adventures Great Freedom Adventures Senior Cycling Tours PLANNING A CYCLING TRIP TO SWITZERLAND OR FRENCH ALPS ? advsouth.co.nz, 866-479-9827 classicadventures.com greatfreedomadventures.com seniorcycling.com Let us help: Guided and independent trips across Switzerland 800-777-8090 877-545-1864 540-668-6307 Alabama Recumbent Tours BMC road bike rentals recumbenttours.com CrossRoads Hike and Bike Italy Silver Bike Tours [email protected] crossroadscycling.com hikeandbikeitaly.com silverbiketours.com Maps, GPS, Swiss cycling gear 800-971-2453 +39.0575.750000 877-808-0913 America By Bicycle abbike.com, 888-797-7057 Cycle America Historical Trails Cycling Sockeye Cycle Co. cycleamerica.com historicaltrailscycling.com Alaska Bicycle Tours Bike Switzerland 800-245-3263 402-499-0874 cyclealaska.com bikeswitzerland.com 877-292-4154 +41(0)78-601-69-57 Cycle Canada Independent Tourist cyclecanada.com independenttourist.com Timberline Adventures Bike The West 800-214-7798 866-269-9913 www.timbertours.com bikethewest.com 800-417-2453 800-565-2704 Cycling Escapes Iron Donkey cyclingescapes.com irondonkey.com Tradnatura Bike Tours Direct 714-267-4591 +44 2890 813200 cycling-tours-in-hungary.com biketoursdirect.com +36 20 9212011 877-462-2423. Dakota Bike Tours Links Bike Tours dakotabiketours.com linksbiketours.com Vacation Bicycling Blue Marble Travel 605-359-5672 vacationbicycling.com bluemarble.org, 201-465-2567 Mountainside Bike Tours 888-591-8291 Experience Plus! mountainsidebiketours.net Bubba’s Pampered Pedalers experienceplus.com 301-722-4887 Woman Tours bubbaspamperedpedalers.com 800-685-4565. womantours.com 321-759-3433 PAC Tour 800-247-1444 Freewheeling Adventures pactour.com, 262-736-2453 Carolina Tailwinds freewheeling.ca carolinatailwinds.com Pedal & Sea Adventures 800-672-0775 888-251-3206 pedalandseaadventures.com Gerhard’s Bicycle Odysseys 877-777-5699 Cascade Huts since1974.com cascadehuts.com Peace of Mind Guaranteed Members of an ACA Cycle 800-966-2402 971-322-3638 (POMG) pomgbike.com Montana tour group take a 888-635-2453 breather at a snack stop. g r eg sip l e

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 Back Your Biking You protect your legs, but a bad back can do damage, too

ou’re pumping uphill and “Ventilation happens by sucking air in hoping your legs will make by Eric Butterman and sucking air out, and this is affected by it. C’mon quads. Keep up the back muscles relative to the bike. The calves. Don’t fail me ham- back muscles create the stable base of sup- strings. Then, your back and glutes can contribute to back issues,” port which you use to create the necessary gives out. It may surprise he says. “If you’re tight through there, it’s torque to the drive train, but the stomach Yyou but it shouldn’t. The problem started hard to rotate through the hips to attain is just as vital.” with every mile that you rode in a position and maintain bicycling endurance.” He Bike posture can be improved but it’s not of bad posture, and it was compounded by then assesses the leg length discrepancies a quick fix. According to Moen, “You have every workout during which you stretched — any asymmetry in length or mobility to remember that bike posture and position every conceivable body part and worked can create lower back pain, Moen says. is a progressive thing — you can’t just be your abs mercilessly but ignored your other Flexibility is a fairly easy fix while the shown the latest and greatest position of a side. It’s time to respect your back and asymmetry is not. pro tour rider and expect to ride like that properly understand how to strengthen Evaluating Strength immediately. You have to work towards it.” and maintain its health so it will help you Now let’s focus on the musculoskel- Then there’s the triangulation of handlebar ride stronger instead of being a problem. etal aspect. “You look at whether they position in relation to saddle position that Erik Moen, a certified physical therapist have reasonable back strength,” Moen says. has an effect on trunk and shoulder angle. and founder of BikePT (bikept.com), which “You always hear people talk about back “Our express goal when the hands are on specializes in bike injuries and equipment pain but they don’t know how to fix it. the bike is trying to find a 90-degree angle fitting, says people just don’t realize the You have to work on the core — which, to and trunk at around 35 degrees,” Moen damage this part of the body can inflict many, means doing sit ups — but one of offers. “You start higher and then gradually on the serious bicyclist. “The second most the things commonly overlooked is whole progress the rider down based on ability to common pain complaint or area of injury strength development of back musculature. show flexibility and good endurance.” from endurance cyclists stems from lower The back muscles are what really influ- It’s Your Bike’s Fault … Sometimes back issues ,” he says. “When you look ences posture that’s stabilized.” Many people don’t realize that saddles at the onset of the injury, it’s chronic in Next, let’s imagine you made a little chip that are too high or low can result in back nature, not just an isolated incident. You in a wall. No big deal, right? Now do it tens pain through negative lumbopelvic posi- felt it before but it gets worse and worse of thousands of times. Suddenly you’ve just tioning. Excessive upward or downward until it limits how you want to ride your tunneled out of a penitentiary à la Andy tilt can overstrain muscles, as can the bike.” Moen says there are three contribut- Dufresne in The Shawshank Redemption. position of the saddle fore or aft. “Cutout ing factors that can lead to injury: riding Something similar happens when you sit on saddles are a particular challenge as they a bike that doesn’t properly fit you, using a bike incorrectly. Every pedal stroke does tend to break down more quickly, so you inadequate riding techniques and skills, a tiny little bit of damage, and — over years have to be careful because that can create and musculoskeletal issues. — it slowly contributes to the inevitable a downwardly tilted scenario,” Moen says. To first evaluate the extent of the dam- breakdown of your back. “The stomach You also must pay particular attention age you’ve already done, Moen looks at a muscles are a huge factor for a cyclist, espe- to saddles for long-distance riders who use person’s flexibility. “People don’t realize cially in ventilation, so we want to see how standard drop handle bars. “You want the

that a lack of flexibility in the hamstrings those are working on the bike,” Moen says. saddle to have level positioning,” Moen g r eg sip l e warns. “We assume our seat post will allow pedal strike to create a counterbalance in us to get to this point but some posts have the legs. If you see a person mashing the finite limitations in their angular adjust- pedals, they shift from side to side on the ment. One of the things that I suggest is to saddle and that will have an adverse effect. get a seat post with micro-adjust or fine- Smooth buttery spins is what you’re look- Don’t just tune tilt adjustment. That allows you to be ing for. When they cruise in the Tour De very discriminating in how you level the France, you’ll notice they float. They’ve got saddle. It’s amazing what a degree or even reasonably good pedaling skills and they a half-of-a-degree angle change will do to create that style.” ride, Bike MS. create a better back position and a more It Affects More Than Cycling comfortable ride.” It’s obvious that the back can no longer Six rideS /// One deStinatiOn /// a wOrld free Of MS Skills Can Kill be ignored when it comes to your riding Just when you thought there were — or your life. If you ride a lot of miles With fun, challenging and scenic routes and top-notch support from already too many things to think about, in a way that will weaken your back, that start to finish — Bike MS isn’t just any ride. It’s a demonstration of ability issues can also can be a factor, espe- pain will follow you into the office and collective strength. With every push of the pedal, we can do more for cially when we’re talking about poor pedal- when you’re trying to enjoy other leisure everyone living with multiple sclerosis. ing for creating acceleration or deceleration activities. You may not like it, but it might associated with lower cadence for a given be time to adjust your posture or pedaling speed. “We know that when you push on so you can continue to enjoy cycling long Bike MS: SaM’S ClUB twin Cities ride Bike MS: traM ride pedals, the back muscles work more or less, term. After all, the journey of a thousand May 12 /// 30 or 60 miles July 22-27 /// 300 miles Minnesota Minnesota depending on your speed,” he says. “If you miles begins with a single step — as can Bike MS: C.H. robinson worldwide Bike MS: ride the wind rode at 60 revolutions or 70 as opposed to Ouch! Many cyclists experience pain in their the journey toward unwanted back pain MS 150 ride July 28-29 /// 150 miles 90, that’s more torque per pedal stroke. lower back due to bad cycling posture. begin with a single pedal stroke done June 8-10 /// 150 miles north dakota For people with a history of lower back poorly. Minnesota Bike MS: Pedal the Plains injuries, you should work toward a higher Moen also recommends single-leg pedal- Bike MS: Cruise the Cornfields aug. 4-5 /// 50, 75 or 150 miles pedaling cadence as a means of avoiding ing to improve skill level. “The nice thing Eric Butterman is a Texas-based writer who’s contrib- June 23-24 /// 75 or 150 miles South dakota uted to Men’s Journal and ESPN.com. You can reach iowa lower lumbar strain. That’s one of the easier is you get minimized relative acceleration him at [email protected]. ways of adjusting mechanics to make life and deceleration in a pedal strike this regiSter tOday /// myMSbike.org /// 800-582-5296 better for a bicyclist.” way,” he says. “You ‘push-pull’ during each

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44 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 45 The Final Mile not kidding. Okay, I’ll play his game. I Idaho. Thoughts of escape over Lemhi like.” The Dark Cloud has been splintered want that map. No, I need that map. “How Pass fill my head. Ignoring some delight- by a shaft of light and, once again, I’m much?” I ask. Slowly and carefully he fully lovely landscape, the day becomes back in the moment. His girlfriend comes folds the map and puts his reading glasses a mental blur. I pedal into Salmon, arriv- home. Lawn chairs come out. Cold beer. the dark cloud back in his shirt pocket. Looking me ing in the early afternoon. “Hmm,” I say Good conversation. Friendly people. I’m Sometimes, for no seemingly good reason, darkness descends on a bike tour right in the eye, he states his price, “Five to myself, “seems like a nice little town.” taking a shower in the home of a complete dollars.” I return his stare. My sense of An attractive city park is situated right stranger. The Dark Cloud has been blown by Greg Smith injustice boils over. “Five dollars? That’s on the Salmon River. A sculpture of a away by a cleansing wind. I’m free of its highway robbery,” I say. Fuming, I turn grizzly bear snagging a salmon out of the grip. “Of course I am,” I think to myself, and leave the store, regretting that I had air draws attention to the natural beauty “I’m on a bicycle journey.” bought a pint of milk prior to finding the of the place. I go to the Sacajawea Center That evening, after finally mentally Every bicycle trip of any duration, and I’m guessing almost map on the shelf. The Dark Cloud happily and spend a pleasant hour strolling mellowing out, I let go of the Lemhi-Pass- follows me out the door. through the interpretive center which shortcut obsession. any long trip of any kind, eventually has one. At least mine Into Challis, Idaho I ride. I grumble to not only discusses the famous explorers, “Just stick to the original plan — ride do. My last bicycle trip, a 1,500-mile journey from Olympia, myself as I climb a persistently moderate Lewis and Clark, but also the people of your route,” I say out loud to no one but hill into town, “Why did they put the Sacajawea’s homeland — the Lemhi- myself. “It’s a good route. You’ll get there Washington, to my hometown of Bozeman, Montana, had one. It arrived some- town up here, it could be down on the Shoshone. The Dark Cloud shudders. when you get there.” where near Clayton, Idaho. It spent the night with me. It arose at about the river.” The wind kicks up, dust is in the As I ride down a side street, a fel- That night, I sleep like a baby and air. I find a very mediocre campsite and low crossing ahead of me stops and wake to a beautiful morning, one filled same time I did the next morning and proceeded to follow me all the way to set my tent up behind the seasonally- stares. “Where’re you headed?” he with sunshine, promising tailwinds, and Salmon, Idaho. I couldn’t seem to shake To facilitate my plan of escape retired U.S. Forest Service trailers. Room asks. “Montana,” I respond. “Started in not a dark cloud in sight! it. The Dark Cloud had found me. over Lemhi Pass, I needed a Montana with no view — and all for only 20 dol- Olympia, Washington, a week or so ago.” My experience suggests that the Dark Highway Map. A visual aid to help lars a night! The shower is warm at best. “That’s a long trip,” he says. “Need a place Greg Smith currently lives in Bozeman, Montana, and was a 20-year employee of the National Park Service, Cloud generally has nothing to with the me mull over my options. Rolling into I can’t find what I wanted for dinner. No to stay for the night?” The Dark Cloud is working in Glacier National Park. Greg now enjoys weather. This particular three-week trip Clayton, Idaho, I see a gas station on one seems particularly friendly. You get in serious trouble. “Sure,” I say, “that’d be working with kids throughout the Northern Rockies had offered up nothing but blue skies my right. Like the search for the Holy the picture. The Dark Cloud was having nice.” We walk down the sidewalk togeth- in the capacity of storyteller and naturalist/historian. and warm temperatures. Nary a cloud in Grail, I’m drawn in my quest to locate a a grand old time (did I just hear a chuck- er — an unemployed logger and a touring Greg likes to spend his time running, nordic skiing, sight. Perfect weather for cycling. Perfect Montana Highway Map. Something to le?) I, however, was not. cyclist. He points out his girlfriend’s front backpacking, reading, and is especially fond of travel- ing the world on his bicycle. weather for anything. Nope, for me the show me the way home — the shortest I awake and pack up for Salmon, yard — “Put your tent up anywhere you Dark Cloud had no connection to the and quickest way home. The gas station weather. It was under sunny skies, with offers up the nauseatingly typical mini- the Salmon River meandering peacefully mart–quality products. I scan the shelves through a broad valley, somewhere along for a Montana Highway Map. And there, Idaho Route 75, that my mood went to right between the 2009 Idaho Hunting/ g r eg sip l e ICYCLING OURS FOR hell! The Dark Cloud had found me. Fishing Regulations and the free Smokey B T Looking back on that day, I admit that the Bear handout reminding us that I was somewhat tired. I was well into the which is, in my opinion, the inherent joy “Only You Can Prevent Wildfires!” is P’tit train du Nord SENIORS 50+ Central Florida second week of the trip and perhaps I of the bicycle journey. I started scheming. the Grail — a single official state-issued could’ve used a day off my bike. There Planning shortcuts. I could get home a day Montana Highway Map. And free and was a slight headwind, but nothing to be earlier if … if only I could get over Lemhi for the taking. I’m as good as home! particularly concerned about. Even on Pass — a short cut between Salmon, Not so quick. “You’ve got to pay for this trip, I’d pedaled into much worse. Idaho, and Dillon, Montana. I had driven that,” says an old man who apparently Headwinds, that is. Traffic was light. over this road several years before. Taking owns the store and has walked up behind The birds were chirping. But this subtle this route would buy me a day, maybe me. “You’re kidding,” I say, “they give grumpiness wormed its way into me more if I got some strong tailwinds. Sure, these away in Montana.” “Not around Allegheny Passage, PA C&O Canal, Washington, DC and began to darken my thoughts. For it’s a long steep climb over rough gravel here they don’t,” he bluntly replies. I turn the first time on this ride, my mind had roads, but what the heck, Lewis and Clark the map in my hands. “Look,” I excit- made the long leap home and left me and walked over the thing in 1805. If need be I edly point out, “it says right on the map my body stuck on this bike in the middle could hitchhike or throw my bike into the — FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION.” He takes “Its not how far nor how fast, of Idaho. My thoughts became focused back of a passing pickup truck driven by the map from my hands. Puts on his read- its the pleasure of the journey” on my life in Bozeman. I found myself a friendly rancher. Perhaps there’s a shuttle ing glasses. Slowly and carefully, treat- thinking about work projects, dead- bus. I became obsessed with the idea of ing it like it’s the only remaining copy of www.seniorcycling.com lines, emails; in short, obligations. Fatal. getting over Lemhi Pass and abandon- the U.S. Declaration of Independence, he Amish Country, PA Florida Keys. Mistake. I opened the door, and the Dark ing my original route up and over Chief opens the map. “He’s looking for a price Cloud walked right on in and sat down Joseph Pass and through the Big Hole tag which he isn’t going to find,” I think in the big fat sofa of my mind. Valley. It would buy me a whole day! I to myself. “Nope,” he says, “FOR FREE Suddenly, I gave up on the moment — could be home by Friday! DISTRIBUTION is in Montana only.” He’s 37419 Branch River Road | Loudoun Heights, VA 20132 | [email protected]

46 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 47 ROAD TEST

ing uphill, weight really wasn’t a factor. Road Test Strength, stability, and durability proved Specifications: Novara Randonee to be far more important. Price: $1,199.00 Crank: Shimano Deore LX, 175mm, The Randonee features a Reynolds 520 Sizes available: Small, medium, large, 44/32/22 chainrings Novara Randonee chromoly frame, with ample room for extra large Front derailleur: Shimano Deore LX fenders and braze-ons to accommodate Size tested: Extra large Rear derailleur: SRAM X7 three water bottle cages, a front rack and Weight: 29.3 pounds without pedals Shifters: SRAM TT500 bar end REI produces another fine machine for bicycle travelers a delightful touch: a right-rear chainstay Brake levers: Tektro RL520 by Charles F. Pelkey that uses spare spokes to protect the fin- TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS Brakes: Tektro RX6 ish from chain slap. Seat tube: 59cm, center to top Pedals: None Components include an affordable, Top tube: 57.5 effective Stem: Kalloy effective combination that offers up a Head tube: 6.5 inches Saddle: Velo VL-1221 Head tube angle: 73° Seat post: Kalloy 30-speed drive train with an 11-32 rear It’s not much of a confession (especially in this crowd) to say that I Seat tube angle: 73° Handlebar: FSA Wing Compact cog and a 44/32/22 Shimano Deore LX Chainstays: 17 3/8 Accessories: Unbranded, beefy, black love bikes. More than that, I love the very idea of the bicycle. It’s a crankset. The SRAM bar-end shifters Crank spindle height above ground: 11 anodized alloy rear rack. lightweight machine that transforms a small amount of human energy work beautifully as they run through the inches Cog cassette: SRAM PG-1050, 11-12- full range on the SRAM X7 rear derailler Fork rake: 50mm 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32 10-speed into forward motion and allows us to travel faster, farther, and cheaper than and the Shimano Deore LX front. I’ve Wheelbase: 106.8mm Chain: SRAM PC 1031 anyone could ever hope to do on a horse. The bike is obviously far more effi- always had a preference for bar-ends, Standover height: 87.63cm (34.5 inches) Gearing in inches: especially when you have to rely on them Frame and fork: Reynolds 520 seamless cient than those poison-spewing machines that now dominate U.S. roads and it out in the boonies, where your own skills butted tubing. Semi-sloping lugged chro- 22 32 44 allows us to move in a way that enhances then to carbon. Price was secondary and ble of handling the rigors of even the as a mechanic are usually the only option moly fork with low-rider braze-ons, forged 11 54.0 78.5 108.0 the very meaning of travel. To me, the manufacturers responded, with high-end worst roads you’d encounter, it would be in the event something goes wrong. dropouts with double eyelets and cable 12 49.5 72.0 99.0 guide braze-on for easy upgrading to a 13 45.7 66.5 91.4 bicycle, in almost any form, represents racing bikes bumping dangerously past a bargain at twice the price. Having gotten comfortable with the dynamo front hub. Threaded bosses for 15 39.6 57.6 79.2 the very epitome of human ingenuity. the five-figure mark as of late. From its tour-friendly geometry to the Randonee while commuting, I loaded the three water bottle cages and spare spoke 17 34.9 50.8 69.9 The bike is elegant simplicity in its It took a recent offer to review the inclusion of useful and well-placed braze- little beast up with 53 pounds of gear on holders on the drive-side chainstay. 19 31.3 45.5 62.5 purest form. And, somehow over the 2012 Novara Randonee to remind me ons to a smart selection of components, a nice fall morning. I installed my own Headset: FSA Orbit, 1 1/8 inch 22 27.0 39.3 54.0 years, I’d lost track of that. that there is more to relishing a bike ride the Randonee represents a thoughtful front rack and took advantage of the Rims: Mavic A319S, 36-hole 25 23.8 34.6 47.5 A look back at my love affair with than competition … and utilitarian approach to beefy rear rack that comes standard on Spokes: DT Champion 14g stainless, 28 21.2 30.9 42.5 the bicycle explains why, too. Nearly and stupid bike spec and design. the Randonee. I added three bottle cages cross three 32 18.6 27.0 37.1 35 years ago, my first ride of more than Probably the first — on the seat tube and on both sides of Hubs: Shimano Deore LX, 36h 100 miles came on the first day of what thing I noticed was a the down tube — and hit the road to our Tires: Vittoria Randonneur Pro, folding, Contact: rei.com, (800) 426-4840 turned into a rambling and goal-less major shift in geometry family’s cabin 27 miles south of Laramie. 700x32 tour across the U.S. It was accomplished when I compared it to my Highway 287 south of town is an astride a cheap $150 machine that served usual ride. I was sud- often-frightening road, in that it’s nar- ing. The 36-hole Mavic A319S rims, the Randonee doesn’t feature front or its purpose and opened up new denly riding in a far more row, has a small shoulder, and offers a spec’ed with Deore LX hubs and 32mm rear suspension, but its relaxed geometry, worlds to me. upright position. The steady stream of truck traffic. It’s the Vittoria Randonneur tires, handled the wide FSA Wing drop bars and beefy tires But soon after I Randonee didn’t throw sort of road one invariably finds oneself transition nicely. made even the rough spots quite toler- finished that trip, me into that speedy, aero riding on a long tour, not by choice, but After 17 miles of pavement, my trip able. With a heavy load (both in cargo my interest turned position I’d adopted over by necessity. Not a fan of traffic, I found took me off 287 and onto 10 miles of and a beefier-than-I want-to-be rider), to speed. I became a the years. It took some myself hugging the far side of the shoul- rough dirt with long stretches of wash- the Randonee handled the trip nicely. bike racer … and a getting used to, but my der, often drifting into the dirt when I boarding one sees on roads that haven’t I spent the night at the cabin with bike snob. I gradually 53-year-old body soon heard a particularly loud semi approach- been graded for a few years. Obviously, continued on page 61 drifted away from appreciated the position touring and its slow, and I began to enjoy the steady, and medita- comfort of riding in a way I tive pace and shifted hadn’t done for years. my focus to rigorous I soon found myself taking the training, on getting amounts of cash. long way to work, opting for dirt roads, up a hill, or knock- Yeah, Novara. It’s rough pavement, and even an abandoned ing off a time trial the house brand of the railroad bed, just to see how much abuse faster than anyone else outdoor retailer REI, the I could heap on the thing. The Randonee around me. Mechanically, same brand upon which I had never disappointed and I’ve since con- my interests shifted from the haughtily looked down my nose cluded it’s close to bombproof. utilitarian to handmade Italian bikes, during all of those years as a bike snob. At 28.1 pounds (closer to 30 in my with an attempt to trim weight and to Sure, at $1,200, the Randonee still size), it’s not light by contemporary enhance aerodynamics. Columbus tub- represents something of an investment. standards. I have to concede, though, ing soon lost its place to titanium and But for a full-on touring machine, capa- that as I wasn’t too concerned about rac-

48 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 49 Geared Up

search out routes that other members nent of the site. You are able to con- seeing the light have created. The network of users and nect with friends and groups in the contributors is growing, and searching MapMyFITNESS community and share by Mike Deme & Josh Tack even a smaller city, such as our home- rides and workouts with each other. If town Missoula, Montana, for rides can you are getting ready for a group tour, produce over 50 routes, including some this can be an excellent way to motivate of my favorite day rides and weekend each other. tours. The final key feature that MapMy Once you start getting comfortable FITNESS incorporates is a nutrition creating routes, you can move onto journal. To get started, you fill out some Supernova Airstream ($240, super- is emitted through a roundish erproof palms. 9 degrees logging workouts, which is where the information that calculates your body nova-lights.com, +49 (0) 761 - 458 7821 symmetrical center beam but Fahrenheit was the coldest journal features starts to come in handy. mass index (BMI). This is used to esti- 0). As I wandered the halls of Interbike with a substantial halo for temperature during which With each workout you log, you can mate the amount of calories you burn ogling all of the magical products being side-to-side illumination. The I used these gloves and my either refer to one of the routes you on a ride. This value should be taken created for cyclists this past September, I German-made Airstream is hands stayed toasty warm. have already mapped or you can create with a grain of salt, but can give you a kept noticing that on many bicycles were constructed of aluminum and a new route. This provides an accurate useful ballpark figure to help determine mounted these shiny silver lights. Not comes with two O-rings for MapMyFITNESS.com description of what you accomplished how much fuel you should replace to recognizing them, I finally looked closer attachment to various handle- Now more than ever, there on a certain day and marks it on a cal- keep your energy up on a long ride. at the name — Supernova. Now there’s a bar sizes. A helmet mount is are a ton of great online endar that you can go back and refer to If you really want to get into the nitty name for a bicycle light (as well as some also available. resources available to help at any time. gritty, there is also a food intake jour- mediocre-to-bad sci-fi movies), imply- you prepare for an upcom- In addition to tracking the route, nal that allows you to track your daily ing an explosion of light. Well, that’s Portland Design Works ing tour. Between touring you can also make notes regarding nutrition. just what you get with the Airstream, (PDW) Danger Zone ($37, forums, online reviews, and details of the day, such as the weather Many of the features that I men- a model in Supernova’s line that should ridepdw.com, 503-234-7257). blogs, there is a great deal of you encountered and how you felt tioned above can be accessed free of be well suited to the bicycle commuter/ In bicycle-car collisions, useful information out there physically throughout the ride. This charge, however, joining at different tourist. It features five settings (includ- most cyclists are struck from that can be compiled to help kind of information may seem insignifi- member levels unlocks more advanced ing flash) with the highest providing 370 behind so make sure you can be seen. you feel more confident and comfort- cant at the time, but looking back and features and eliminates some of the lumens and burn times of 2.5/3.5/7/24/12 The Danger Zone features 2.5 watt LEDs able planning the logistics of a trip. One reminding yourself that you worked annoying advertisement popups. I hours respectively, and it takes approxi- that strobe slowly or quickly, or burn unique resource that I’ve enjoyed using through some difficult days may inspire opted for the gold-level membership solid. It’s powered by two AAA batter- recently is MapMyFITNESS. confidence when riding through tough ($100 yearly) which provides a huge ies and can be mounted on a rear fender, MapMyFITNESS is a training journal stretches of a tour. touring benefit with unlimited printing seatpost, or on a backpack. If someone that places an emphasis on tracking your As you start logging workouts, you of routes and turn by turn directions can’t spot you from behind while you’ve activities and projecting goals. This can can start to explore the social compo- and elevation profiles. – JT got the Danger Zone employed, they’re prove useful if you’re wondering how not watching the road because they’re many miles per day you’re capable of rid- looking for their mobile phone, texting, ing. On top of this, it can also track your or worse. nutritional habits, so you can zero in on a diet for the road. Out of the gate, this Planet Bike Borealis ($42, planet- can all seem pretty intimidating, so it bike.com, 866-256-8510). If you ride in can be a good idea to break it down into the winter, you need to protect your manageable pieces before taking on the mately six hours to fully charge the hands. The Borealis offers a 3-in-1 design website as a whole. To get started, we’ll integrated Lithium-ion battery via the providing a flexibility of use for many kick it off with creating routes, and work provided AC or USB-powered chargers. wether conditions. The glove system our way up in complexity. The Airstream uses Supernova’s consists of an outer shell that is wind Creating routes can be done a couple TERAFLUX lens system and adheres to and water resistant in combination with ways. You can either manually track your the German stVZO, which is the German an inner fleece liner. So depending on rides by clicking through roads on a map rulebook for vehicles on the road, how cold it is, you can wear them both, powered by Google Maps or you can including bicycles (see swhs.home.xs4all. just the shell, or just the liner. upload your ride data from a GPS device. nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/stvzo/index_ Other features include a semi lobster- There is also a smartphone app available. en.html for more on the subject), and claw design (pinky and ring fingers in Once a route is tracked, you can write up therefore, throws most of its light below one compartment), neoprene/velcro wrist a quick description of the ride and either the sight lines of oncoming traffic. In the closures, soft fleece thumbs for nose wip- share it with the MapMyFITNESS com- Airstream’s case, the majority of the light ing, reflective piping, and sticky, weath- munity or keep it private. You can also

50 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 51 PHOTO CONTEST - 1

ADVENTURE CYCLING’S THIRD ANNUAL BICYCLE TRAVEL PHOTO CONTEST After reviewing more than 700 submissions from all corners of the Enjoy. And next year, send us your best shots — maybe you’ll Earth, our third annual photo competition has come down to these see them printed here. 10 images. Others were worthy, but these stood out as the most (Interesting fact: We were split between the winner, below, compelling of the lot. Stunning in their diversity, each manages to and the photo on the cover. Using both was our solution.) capture the adventure, thrill, and beauty of traveling by bicycle. For more info go to: adventurecycling.org/photocontest/

THIRD PLACE (above) ADAM COPPOLA — “Corn, soy- bean, more corn, more soybean, even more corn, and tons more soybean. Iowa could be a mind dream or mind nightmare at any FIRST PLACE given moment. No other place in the country (above) ADAM COPPOLA — Haystack allows a cyclist to get into a euphoric mul- Rock at Cannon Beach, Oregon, a low tide tiple-hour, rhythmic, meditative ride as our and a glorious sunset came together for the nation’s corn belt. This same region can turn judges favorite shot. into a battle against headwinds with no end in sight — tougher than any Rocky Mountain SECOND PLACE climb.” (right) RYAN DAVIES — “We cycled across Turkmenistan using a standard 5-day (left) jukka Salminen — An acacia transit visa. The 500 km between the Iranian tree offers a rare patch of midday shade to and Uzbek borders is usually simple enough, a father and son on tour in Sudan’s Nubian but unfortunately our 5 days coincided with Desert. 5 days of the strongest headwind I’ve ever experienced. We were reduced to a soul- destroying 6 mph average speed, and had to spend every daylight hour on the bikes. The road stretched to the horizon under grey skies, surrounded by vast, empty land- scapes.”

52 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 53 PHOTO CONTEST - 2

(right) ROBERT KNOL — A flat tire interupts (below, left) NICK JENSEN — Carrie Jensen (below) MELISA REGAN — “After a stop in Pienza in Tuscany a Cairo to Capetown record attempt. pedals away from Lake Wakatipu on her way from during our tour in Italy, we veered off of the paved road onto “The locals call this road in the Kaisut Queenstown to Glenorchy in New Zealand. Carrie an unmarked dirt road that, according to our GPS, led to the Desert of northern Kenya the ‘Highway to and her husband Nick spent three months explor- agritourism campground on our map. After a couple of miles of Hell’. The roads here were the worst of all, ing New Zealand by bicycle for their honeymoon. uncertainty, we arrived at the campground and the most beauti- corrugated with big lava rocks. This area was ful view we had seen in our three weeks of touring.” the most dangerous I had to travel through. It’s a region of tribal warriors, nomads, and the notorious ‘Shifta’ — local bandits.” “I crossed 10 different African countries entirely unassisted, covering 11,198 km in 70 days, 3 hours and 50 minutes (10 days faster than the previous record). With this attempt, I raised funds for safe water and sanitation facilities for schools in Nyanja, Zambia.”

(above) Tobias Pieper — This moment on the road in northern Laos was captured during a 30-country, 28,000-mile tour. “Our trip was a dream, a crazy idea. But in march 2009, it became reality when we left our home country Germany to cycle east. Our destination was Beijing, China. Even we doubted in the beginning that we could reach Asia at all. But it turned out to become the adventure of a lifetime.”

(right) Matthew Kadey — Cambodia: Cyclist Matthew Kadey rides through an entrance gate to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. (above) BRIAN WASSON — Six-year-old Matt Wasson pauses on the historic Keystone Viaduct bridge in western Pennsylvania during a three-day tour on the Great Allegheny Passage. He did the 100-mile tour with his mom and dad on their triplet. It was his first overnight bike tour. Note: This photo, and especially his attitude, had us in stitches!

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Life Member Profile Deanna McMillen classified Rate: $115 for the first 30 words, $2 for each additional word. For more information,ads please contact Lifelong cyclist and holographer supports Adventure Cycling Rick Bruner at phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, email: [email protected]. by Dan Schwartzman Bicycle Touring Gear Events EUROPE — 200 ROUTES IN 30 COUNTRIES TheTouringStore.com — Buy Expedition BICYCLE RIDE ACROSS GEORGIA (BRAG) — Bike Tours Direct - Guided and self-guid- Quality Panniers, Racks, & Bicycle Touring — Spring Tune-Up Ride, April 20-22, 2012, ed tours with European bike tour companies. Gear at Great Prices! See Ortlieb, Tubus, Madison, GA. 33rd Annual Bicycle Ride Weekly and daily departures. Tours from Lone Peak, and More! Questions? Call Wayne Across Georgia, June 2-9, 2012. Great fun for $600. From familiar - Loire Valley, Provence, Deanna McMillen’s first bike tour in Tennessee wasn’t exactly a Toll Free at (800) 747-0588, Email us at: families and groups. Various mileage options. Danube, Tuscany, Bavaria, Ireland - to exotic [email protected], or visit us at 770-498-5153, [email protected], www.brag.org. - Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Slovenia, Adriatic breeze. A cyclist since the age of three — and it’s fair to say a www.TheTouringStore.com. island-hopping. 877-462-2423 www.bike VERMONTREAL 2012 — Experience vine- toursdirect.com. [email protected]. cycling enthusiast at that young age, too — McMillen’s first BikeBagShop.com — The largest yards, villages, and La Route Verte on this trek was a two-day affair — a class trip to Tims Ford State Park in selection of Bike Bags & Bike Racks - by pedal into the heart of Montreal. 3- and BIKE ITALY WITH SICICLANDO! — Spring Ortlieb, Vaude, Lone Peak, Tubus, Old Man 4-day options departing 5/31 & 6/1. Most cycling is spectacular! Wildflowers! Peaceful Tennessee. After spending the night, the group headed back on the second day. “On Mountain & More! BikeTrailerShop.com — meals, professional guides, SAG, lifetime paths! Colors and flavors of the season! Join The largest selection of Bike Cargo Trailers memories. www.localmotion.org/vermont us in April for a tour of Sicily or bicycle the the ride back, we had 30 to 40 mile-an-hour head winds the entire way and I thought — by BOB, Burley, Extrawheel, Wandertec real; 802-861-2700. quieter places of Tuscany on our Maremma & More! 1-800-717-2596. tour beginning June 24. Consider a Bike I was going die!” McMillen said. rience where I am — I want 2012 Vermont Bike and Brewery &Boat tour of Amalfi or Sicily in June. www. A recreational rider, to be in the place and in the CYCLOCAMPING.COM — SAVE on Bicycle Challenge — Cycle through the Green siciclando.com or call 1-800-881-0484. who nowadays likes to do a culture. I’ve had longhorn Touring Gear & Camping Equipment. 50+ Mountains and taste some of the best beer BAVARIA and NORTHERN ITALY — A blend short tour about once a year, bulls show up in front of me Top Quality Brands - Ranked in the TOP 1% in the country, visiting half the breweries in at ResellerRatings.com - FAST Shipping + the state. Coming this June. More at mount of bicycling, culture and history. First Class McMillen was undeterred. In on a one-lane road!” FREE Shipping on orders >$120 - Enjoy our major.com. hotels and fine regional cuisine. Individual fact, even while recalling her McMillen loves the open Forum, Daily Articles and our Experts Corner pace, optional distances, support van. Our at www.cyclocamping.com. Help Wanted 39th year! GERHARD’S BICYCLE ODYSSEYS. favorite bike-touring memory, road — just not the tradition- (800) 966.2402. www.since1974.com a trip from Glacier National al concept of experiencing it JOIN THE CYCLE AMERICA SUMMER STAFF Bike Shops — Spend an adventuresome summer travel- Park through Banff and ending in an automobile. A driver of RECUMBENTS, TANDEMS, TRIKES — ing while sharing ride and work respon- freewheEling adventures – guided in Jasper, Wyoming, McMillen a 12-year-old car, she said she Rans, Easy Racer, Sun, Cycle Genius, Bacchetta sibilities. Positions include: Tour Support and self-guided — Small groups and Recumbents - KHS, Schwinn, Raleigh Volunteers, Bike Mechanics, Massage private trips for 25 years. Famous and unusu- embraced obstacles along the has no intention of upgrading. al rides in Canada, Iceland, Europe, Israel, way. They have never discour- Instead, she prefers to spend Tandems - Greenspeed, HP VeloTechnik Therapists, Picnic and Route Coordinators. Trikes - Electra Touring. Jay’s Pedal Power, 800‑716‑4426. www.CycleAmerica.com. Central America. Go your own pace. Choose aged her or even put a damper money on her bicycle. 512 E. Girard Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19125; hills and distances or flat and relaxed. 800- on her positive attitude. “There are some typical (215) 425-5111, Toll-free (888) 777-JAYS, Visit International Tours 672-0775; www.freewheeling.ca; bicycle@ freewheeling.ca. “I’ve never been an athletic American values that I prob- our website at: www.jayspedalpower.com. PEDAL AND SEA ADVENTURES — We’re bicycle person — I cruise Deanna McMillen and husband Mark Sims. ably don’t have, but I value a personable travel company offering cre- ARRIVING BY BIKE — Eugene, Oregon’s ative cycling and multi-sport adventures in Miscellaneous on my bike — so this whole my bicycle, bike lanes, sup- Urban Cycling Outfitters. Gear, guidance many of the world’s best places, including Ride A Mile With Kyle — Hello fellow going over the mountain passes for me These trips are McMillen’s biggest adven- porting the local cycling club, things like and enthusiasm to support your life-bik- Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, P.E.I., Croatia, adventure cyclists, I am running (riding) to ing. Basil, Ortlieb, Tubus, Detours, Showers Italy, Greece, Norway, and Ireland. Guided serve as Governor of Florida in 2014. This was a real achievement, and it was just tures — other than renovating houses, that are important to me — and have historic kickoff will begin on March 7, 2014, gorgeous.” McMillen said. “The first day which she does both for business and been since age three.” Pass, Ibex and Endura plus loads of fenders, and self-guided. Van-supported. Friendly lights, reflectives, tools and Brooks saddles. guides. Charming inns. Custom groups in Key West, Florida, and will cross into all of we rode Going-to-the-Sun Road. We had pleasure. In addition to cycling, Sims McMillen and Sims have been Joint Xtracycles! 2705 Willamette St., 541.484.5410, anytime. Over 70% return clientele since Florida’s 67 counties. I am looking for riders to be up there by 11:00 AM and I wasn’t is an avid hiker and has trekked more Life Members for longer than they can [email protected]. 2005! Toll Free Phone: 877-777-5699. Please to join me in this ride across Florida. If you email us at dana@pedalandseaadventures. would like to ride a mile with Kyle, please go sure I would make it, but I did. Later, on than 340 miles of the Appalachian Trail, recall. The pair would like one day to to www.kcin2014.com and press the Ride A the way to the hotel, a van stopped in which he is carving up in multi-day ride the Northern Tier Route across the TANDEMS EAST — Road, Mountain and com or visit our website: www.pedalandsea Travel Tandems. Over 60 in stock. Wheel build- adventures.com. Mile with Kyle icon. front of me. I swerved, hit a pothole and chunks. U.S. from Washington to Maine. On ing, child conversions, repairs, parts catalog, flipped off my bike, and so I rode the For McMillen traveling on a bike that venture, McMillen said she would test rides. Back-stocking Conti and Schwalbe Create your own cycling tour of North American Tours touring tires. 86 Gwynwood Dr, Pittsgrove, NJ Provence — What a concept! You choose TIMBERLINE ADVENTURES — Fully sup- next seven days pretty banged up. I fig- allows for just the right speed — faster choose a long wheelbase recumbent. No ported bicycling & hiking adventure vaca- ured I was going to hurt no matter where than hiking and slower than motor vehi- doubt she would be well served to bring 08318. Phone: (856) 451-5104, Fax: (856) 453- dates, type of accommodation, restaurants, 8626. Email: [email protected] or visit our routes, distances, sites to explore. All you tions with an organization whose sole focus I was so I decided I might as well be on cle travel, which she has done both in a her upbeat outlook with her into the website at: www.tandemseast.com. need is help from LinksBikeTours.com. for 26 years is extraordinary adventure my bike!” car and on a motorcycle. unknown. throughout western U.S. & Canada. Website: FULLY GUIDED AND SUPPORTED CYCLE www.timbertours.com Email: timber@earth Now living in Austin, Texas, the “In a car, you’re closed in, you’re not “Adventure to me is when I go out net.net Phone: 800-417-2453. holographer is a Joint Life Member with out there in the elements, the world. I’ve and I don’t exactly know what I’m going TOURS IN HUNGARY — Castle hotels with unique atmosphere. Gastronomic adventures, her husband, Mark Sims, who she met had motorcycles before and they go too to get into.” finest wines. Nicest routes & sights, nature in a bicycle-touring–recreation class at fast. You don’t see things. They’re great & culture, healing spas, superb bikes. www. the University of Alabama at Huntsville. for getting from Point A to Point B, but Dan Schwartzman is a certified Bikram Yoga instruc- tradnaturasport.hu, [email protected]. tor who recently completed a cycling/yoga tour down Together, the couple usually sets out for not for experiencing things,” McMillen the Pacific Coast. He is also a valuable volunteer for continued on next page at least a long weekend tour every year. said. “Whenever I travel, I want to expe- Adventure Cycling Association.

56 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 57 ADS ADS

continued from page 17 classifiedads Because of its position, waves of succes- continued sors and conquerors came to these shores throughout its history. From this spot, generation after gen- eration watched their fathers, brothers, Join Charleston Bicycle Tours — BIKE THE FLORIDA KEYS — The ultimate WOMEN ONLY BIKE TOURS — For all CYCLE NORTH CAROLINA FALL RIDE and husbands head out to fish the rich Discover Southern Low Country history Bicycle Vacation. Bike the entire key system, ages and abilities. Fully supported, inn-to- — 13th Annual “Mountains to the Coast” waters of the Adriatic. These same waters and charm with local owners/licensed tour down and back. Fully-supported includ- inn, bike path & road tours. Cross-country, (September 29 – October 6) -- Cycle 450 plus saw bigger changes as empires rose and guides. Cycle on paved roads to plantations, ing breakfasts and most dinners. Beautiful National Parks, Europe & more. 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Make sure drivers see you. friends and family (who still couldn’t figure out why I was hauling all of that unnecessary gear) and set off the next marketMarketplace ads start at $195 per issue. For rate information, place please please contact Rick Bruner. morning for the mostly uphill return Phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, Email: [email protected]. With sizes from XS to 4X, styles from trip. It was on those steep stretches of sleek to baggy, and colors and prints bumpy dirt road that I really appreciated that would make even a rainbow having a low gear that took me down to jealous; we have what it takes to help 22 x 32. you ride in comfort and style! My only real gripe about the Just a few of the many brands we stock: Randonee is that its Tektro RX6 V-brakes Castelli Icebreaker SIDI Cannondale Louis Garneau Skirt Sports ® ™
 Pearl Izumi Sporthill With see me wear they will. Giro Primal Wear Sugoi • Fluorescent colors increase the distance Gore Bike Wear Sheila Moon Terry a driver sees you 5 ½ times! Ibex Shimano Zoot Sports (Bicycling, December 2010 pg. 34) • See the demo at our website. www.TeamEstrogen.com • Made in USA. Colors won’t fade. • 100% poly for maximum wicking. Invisible ½ zipper, 3 back pockets. • Long sleeve and windbreaker also available.

Top Cap Cage Mount Windbreaker www.seemewear.com/cyclist

seem designed for a moderately priced mountain bike and not necessarily for a fully-loaded touring rig. It might add to the cost and maybe the complexity of an Excellent for bikes with no Water Bottle otherwise simple and utilitarian ride, but mounts or an extra bottle for long rides. the Randonee would really benefit from Replaces the Top-Cap on threadless stems. the inclusion of disc brakes … perhaps a Remove the Top-Cap, mount with the long cable-actuated system that could be eas- end forward, install cage, go for a ride. ily serviced on the road. Includes meals and hotel lodging! My bottom line, though, is that I like Flavors of Wisconsin July 9-14, 2012 the bike enough to consider buying one Eat Cheese • Taste Microbrews Northern Woods & Waters for my post-illness road trip this spring August 20-25, 2012 Ride Paved Forest Roads (I’d been diagnosed with cancer midway Relax in Historic Waterfront Inns Enjoy Optional Water Activities through 2011). I hope to hit the road www.aroundwisbike.com when the weather turns and enjoy an extended tour as a way of celebrating a Made in U.S.A. new year. I frankly can’t think of a bet- www.kingcage.com ter, more-affordable option than REI’s Novara Randonee.

Charles Pelkey has held a number of editorial positions at VeloNews including Senior Editor of VeloNews.com. Pelkey earned a JD degree from the University of Wyoming College of Law and lives in Laramie, Wyoming, with Diana, his wife of 25 years, and their two children.

60 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 61 ADS / JUMP OPEN ROAD GALLERY

GET A CHANCE TO WIN Open Road Gallery Share the Joy ODYSSEY 2011 Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple

n For each cyclist you refer to Adventure Cycling, you will get one chance to win a Giant Rapid 1* valued at over $1,250. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2013.

n Each month, we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Arkel, Ortlieb, and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win!

* Bicycle model may change with release of new or updated models.

Adventure Cycling Association adventurecycling.org/joy

Adventure Cycling Corporate Members Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward role in the success of our nonprofit organization. Our Corporate special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key support- about how your business can become a corporate supporter of ers. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or do and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher call (800) 755-2453.

TITANIUM GOLD

“In my normal life, I am Achilles — any action towards my own fulfillment inherently threatens someone else’s. On the road, I am Odysseus — an unfettered traveler receiving instinctive hospital- ity. No one cares if I am Greek or Trojan, liberal or conservative, rich or poor. Everyone opens their doors.” So writes Rachel Siciliano, stoker on the tandem Marigold, as she compares bike touring to a modern-day Odyssey. John Shade and Rachel Siciliano departed New York City on July 2. Their route to Astoria, Oregon, followed the Hudson River, the Erie Canal, the Mississippi, and the St. Croix River. Their 4,200-mile ride celebrated nothing in particular and everything all at once. “It was just in time,” noted Siciliano, “corporate cubicles were aging our bodies; and glaciers were melting away.” Although Rachael and John Shade didn’t spar with Sirens or Cyclopes, they had their own adventures during their 84 days on the road. John, Rachel, and Marigold raced Amish carriages, dodged thunderstorms, visited 12 national parks, donated blood to mosquitoes, and were invited into a sweat lodge. They saw Elvis (or someone who looked just like him), toured an underground SILVER BRONZE city, heard wolves howl, ate handfuls of wild berries, and slept in an ancient cedar forest. Ortlieb Like Odysseus, Rachael and John returned home triumphant, and were joyfully reunited with family and friends. Their lives returned to normal, and bike trips became something saved for Alphagraphics afternoons and weekends. “But the riddle of Odysseus’s journey is not that he couldn’t go home, it’s that he didn’t want to,” muses Rachael. And how long before the sweet siren song of the open Lorain County Visitors Bureau road calls them back again?

Urban Bicycle Outfitters From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2012 Adventure Cycling Association.

62 ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST FEBRUARY 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 63 Adventure Cycling Association Non-profit P.O. Box 8308 U.S. POSTAGE Missoula, Montana 59807-8308 PAID Adventure Cycling Association

Share Your Dreams: Family Fun Tours

Family Fun, Katy Trail June 30 - July 6 l Family Fun, C&O Canal July 8 - 14 l Family Fun, Colorado August 4 - 9

www.adventurecycling.org/toursmag LANNY WIXSON