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Landscape Character Type D: OpenMoorland

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Landscape Character Type D: OpenMoorland Part 4: Landscape Character Assessment of Exmoor l LCT Type D: Open Moorland Landscape Character Type D: OpenMoorland Brendon Common from Two Gates Summary Description This Landscape Character Type (LCT) comprises the Open Moorland LCT is limited to very occasional open, exposed landscape of Exmoor’s inland scattered farms. Although it is crossed by some heather and grass moorland, and is predominantly roads, much of the LCT is inaccessible by vehicle. located in the central part of the National Park. An Mostly a former royal hunting forest, the Open uninterrupted sweep of moorland extends from the Moorland is a powerful, inspiring landscape - of foothills of Dunkery Beacon in the east to large scale, expanse, elevation and exposure - Challacombe Common in the west. To the south, which is recognised by locals and visitors alike as there are several areas of more fragmented integral to Exmoor’s character. Its distinctive, moorland between Shoulsbarrow Common and smooth skylines form the backdrop to views East Anstey Common. There are also two smaller throughout the National Park. Views within the outlying Open Moorland areas to the east at Open Moorland are panoramic with simple level Winsford Hill and Haddon Hill. In total there are four horizons and big expansive skies. The land cover of distinct Landscape Character Areas (LCAs) within heather and grassland cover provide variations in the LCT. The Open Moorland is bordered by a colour, texture and movement. This is also a number of different landscapes, but is for the most landscape of great antiquity, containing a rich and part met by the vast sweep of the Enclosed Farmed perceivable tapestry of history from early prehistoric Hills with Commons LCT. Settlement within the times to the present day. 134 Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2018 D1:Northern D2:Southern D3:WinsfordHill D4:HaddonHill Key Characteristics of the Open Moorland l Underlying geology comprising broad l A predominantly open landscape, with east-west bands of sandstones, slates occasional stone walls, overgrown and siltstones, with some higher areas beech hedges or post and wire fences. capped with peat. Relict features of past activities include l A large-scale landform of broad, gently drains, canals and sheep stells. undulating plateaux and rounded hills l A rich diversity of prehistoric sites, that loom over the adjacent, lower- including stone settings which appear lying landscapes. to be unique to Exmoor. l Cut by distinctive, deeply-carved l A landscape with a long association moorland valleys (both wet and dry), with hunting and grazing from its with gently meandering streams of origins as a royal forest, which varied character issuing from a large continues today. number of moorland springs. l Outstanding panoramic views over the l Land cover of heather and grass moor, open moorland and beyond. The used as rough grazing by Exmoor distinctive smooth horizons of the open ponies, sheep and cattle. moorland also form backdrops to views l A rich ecological resource comprising a throughout the National Park. mosaic of semi-natural moorland l Distinctive seasonal colour and texture habitats, including blanket bog, heath e.g. purple heather and golden molinia. and grassland, as well as patches of l An exposed, expansive, windswept bracken, gorse and scrub. landscape which offers a high degree of l Trees limited to lines of beech, isolated tranquillity and remoteness, and an streamside trees, occasional stands of extremely strong sense of place. conifers and tree clumps in the combes. l Cultural associations with artists and l An absence of settlement, with a few writers, including Alfred Munnings and isolated farms on the peripheries. R. D. Blackmore. 135 Part 4: Landscape Character Assessment of Exmoor l LCT Type D: Open Moorland Natural Landscape Features This LCT occupies the highest land within the The Open Moorland contains extensive areas of National Park, with Dunkery Beacon the highest habitats which are nationally and internationally point. The broad east-west ridge, which runs designated, and which support a very wide variety of between Dunkery Beacon in the east and The species of plants, insects, birds and butterflies. These Chains in the west, forms the watershed which habitats include heather moorland (for example divides the land draining north to the Bristol Dunkery Beacon) and grass moor (for example The Channel from the land draining south into the Exe Chains). There are also smaller areas of blanket bog and Taw. The landform is relatively simple, and and valley mire habitats. Due to changes in grazing comprises a series of rolling plateaux and ridges, patterns and moorland management practices, cut by occasional steep-sided valleys. The ridges there are some areas of Open Moorland where form the distinctive smooth, convex, gently rolling bracken and scrub is encroaching on heath and skyline which is so characteristic of Exmoor. The grassland habitats. Tree cover is relatively sparse. It Open Moorland also contains a number of includes occasional lines of distinctive wind-sculpted Exmoor’s distinctive geomorphological features, beech trees along banks, as well as stands of including The Punchbowl on Winsford Hill and peri- hawthorn such as at Farley Water. Other mixed glacial formations such as Alse Barrow, Flexbarrow, native species occur in ribbons such as at Dunkery, Kingsland Goyle, Long Chains Combe and or clothe the slopes as at Badgworthy Water. There Woodbarrow Hangings. are occasional clumps of willow and alder alongside Many springs rise on the Open Moorland , feeding streams and in the combes. There are also streams which gently meander through steep-sided occasional copses and shelter belts of non-native valleys. From medieval times until the 1960s, the conifers planted in the twentieth century. natural drainage processes on the moor were modified to improve the land for agriculture. This Larger animals living on the moors include sheep, process is now being reversed through the ‘Exmoor cattle, iconic Exmoor ponies and red deer. There are Mires Project’ which facilitates the blocking of about 3000 red deer on Exmoor, living in moorland moorland drains in an attempt to recreate wet peat and farmland, and using woodlands for cover. Field habitats and improve the Open Moorland ’s water sports remain a popular pastime and are an storage capacity. important element of local culture and economy. Flexbarrow, in the upper Barle valley Sphagnum moss vegetation, The Chains 136 Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2018 Ponies grazing on heather moor, Brendan Common Grass moor and wind-sculpted beech tree, The Chains Designated Nature Conservation Sites SpecialAreaof Exmoor Heaths (D1, D2, D3, D4) National Nature Dunkery and Horner Wood (D1) Conservation(SAC) Reserve (NNR) Local Geological Pinkworthy (D1); Upper Site of Special North Exmoor (D1, D2); River Lyn Site (LGS) Willingford Gully (D2); River Barle (D1); South Exmoor (D2, D3, D4) Scientific Interest at Sherdon (D2); Wheal Eliza (SSSI) Mine (D2); Cow Castle (D2); Cornham Ford (D2); Roman Lode Gully (D2) County / Local Numerous sites in all LCAs, often Wildlife Site (C/LWS) located on fringes of LCT, including farmland, grassland Biosphere Reserve North Devon Biosphere Reserve and wetland sites Transition Zone (D1, D2) Historic Landscape Features and the Built Environment The moderate level of agricultural improvement 10,000 pieces of flint flakes from tool-making have within this landscape has enabled the survival of a been discovered. There are numerous sites thought wealth of archaeological sites covering several to date to the late Neolithic to Middle Bronze Age thousand years. There are concentrations of within the Open Moorland , including a stone circle Scheduled Monuments within this LCT, and also on Porlock Allotment, standing stones, stone rows, several Principal Archaeological Landscapes. The cairns (both funerary and resulting from field vast majority of the Open Moorland is rough clearance), stone settings in various formations, grazing land, with the current enclosure pattern (or clusters of barrows and remnants of field systems. lack thereof) dating from the early medieval period There is also a possible Neolithic enclosure at or earlier. A network of tracks cross the moor, some Chapman Barrows. of which may be very ancient in origin. Several such By the time of the Domesday survey in 1086, a large tracks meet at Alderman’s Barrow. part of Exmoor was a royal hunting forest, This LCT contains the greatest assemblage of uninhabited and subject to Forest law. The area prehistoric landscapes within the National Park. covered by the Forest gradually reduced in size, One of the earliest known sites (thought to be until by 1400 it was equivalent to today’s parish of Mesolithic) is at Hawkcombe Head, where over Exmoor. The boundary of the royal forest often 137 Part 4: Landscape Character Assessment of Exmoor l LCT Type D: Open Moorland followed earlier features, such as barrows, but Commoners from these parishes had a complicated otherwise has left few traces in the landscape. system of rights to use the common land, which However, there are visible remains of some included grazing animals, cutting peat for domestic medieval farmsteads and their surrounding field fuel, and cutting vegetation for use as animal fodder systems which were subsequently abandoned, and bedding. Commons were often marked by such as Badgworthy. Following their purchase of straight, stone-faced hedgebanks which can still be the Forest between 1818-1820, the Knight family seen, often now patched with post-and-wire and their tenants continued to graze livestock on fencing, and topped with gnarled and wind- the open moor, and some features from this era are sculpted beech trees. There are extensive ridge and still visible, such as their estate wall, and sheepfolds. furrow earthworks, particularly on the southern Their attempts to make the open moor into commons (D2) and Winsford Hill (D3), suggesting productive farmland also had a big impact on the that they were ploughed for crops in medieval times.
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