PAGE S3 Fergie’S Rebel Yell by MOLLY PRIOR

FULL-COURT PRESS: Khloé and Lamar don’t know the meaning of the word “no.” WWDSTYLE PAGE S3 Fergie’s Rebel Yell By MOLLY PRIOR

FOR POP ICON FERGIE, 2011 is all about out with the old, in with the new. The Black Eyed Peas front woman and Avon spokeswoman is gearing up to introduce her second fragrance, Outspoken Intense, a scent blended to cap- ture the adrenaline she feels before stepping out on stage. “It’s about owning that moment,” said Fergie. Just how does Fergie, a fireball of energy, amp up for the stage? “Green tea,” she told WWD. “When I’m getting ready for a performance, it’s very calm.… I like to exude everything that I have on the stage.” Referring to her fragrance, she said, “It’s really right before I go on [stage] that my heart starts beating faster. The adrenaline kicks in. That’s the feeling.” Her first scent, Outspoken, shattered Avon records. “It was the single largest fragrance [launch] we’ve had in the company’s history,” said Andrea Jung, Avon Products Inc.’s chairman and chief executive officer. And the company expects the upcoming scent to unseat Outspoken as a bestseller. After all, Fergie is accustomed to breaking records, having shattered several on the Billboard charts. “I love this scent,” said Fergie. “I’m actually starting to like it more than Outspoken. My mom does as well.” Outspoken Intense, described as a fruity floral, was developed by International Flavors & Fragrances and is comprised, in part, of star fruit and kumquat. “My dad used to grow kumquats and peel them for me,” said Fergie. She also developed an affinity for star fruit while hotel-hopping on tour in Asia, where she was welcomed with a plate of freshly sliced star fruit. “I love the fruity notes,” she said. The fragrance will be available beginning in July for $30. A TV spot — featuring a cut from “Beautiful Dangerous,” Fergie’s collaboration

{Continued on page S6}

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE S2 WWDSTYLE friday, april 8, 2011

For snippets, see beauty WWD.com/ beauty-industry-news. L’Eau de Toilette de Lolita Lempicka ID Beauty Links With Fusion cautioned that even if the company one day signed By PeTe BOrn a license with another designer, the nature of the business would be so different that there would be iD BeAUTY, holder of the Diane von furstenberg no conflict or competition with von furstenberg. fragrance license, has entered into an alliance iD Beauty both manufacturers and markets with new York-based fusion Brands inc. to pro- high-tech skin care brands — namely rexaline, vide a base in the U.S. market and furnish a pos- which is based on a powerful hydration concept; sible support for a larger, multibrand company. a yogurt-inspired 02D-Biotic, and fruit forever According to Alexandre Cukier, chief executive with natural active ingredients. Cukier said the officer and founder of Paris-based iD Beauty, he in- treatment brands are targeted for different retail tends to appoint a ceo for the American market with- channels to avoid internal competition and canni- in the next few months, as a prelude to the launch balization. Another antiaging brand, Wonder Skin, of the first von furstenberg fragrance this October is slated for launch within the next year. in europe, north America and the Middle east. Cukier noted that rexaline ranks in the top 10 Caroline Pieper-Vogt, ceo of fusion Brands, said the at Sephora in europe. in addition, iD Beauty dis- Lempicka Launches two companies are working together. The partner- tributes fragrances like Paul Smith. ship now consists of providing sales and training fusion Beauty has already taken over distribu- Women’s Fragrance expertise in the U.S. market for iD Beauty’s existing tion chores of rexaline in the U.S. stores of Sephora brand portfolio, through the fusion Brands luxury and is presenting fruit forever to department fragrance Division. That unit was started a year ago stores. Kline said the new Paul Smith men’s fra- By Jennifer Weil by Dana Kline, president and executive vice presi- grance, called Optimism, will go into Bloomingdale’s dent of fusion Brands inc. in the fall. The fusion team will also work on the PAriS — fourteen years after launching le Premier Cukier and his partner, Chantal roos, the for- new von furstenberg scent in the fall. Parfum de lolita lempicka, the lolita lempicka brand mer president of YSl Beauté, who is oversee- Cukier appeared optimistic. “We have all the in- will introduce — starting in mid-April — a signature eau ing product development and marketing, both gredients for success; Diane is an icon,” he said, later de toilette targeting a more mature woman. said there is the possibility of ultimately signing adding, “we have no right to make any mistakes.” “The first fragrance’s story was about the awakening of de- other licenses in the future, in addition to von neither Cukier nor anyone else was talking sire and, here, it’s about the taste of desire, the taste of sin,” furstenberg. But they both underscored the fact numbers, but industry sources estimate iD Beauty explained Catherine Dauphin, president of Pacific Creation that the DVf deal is the current focus and basis does a volume turnover of roughly 180 million Parfum et Beauté, lolita lempicka’s beauty licensee. for the company. euros at wholesale, or $257.4 million at current ex- To illustrate the idea, l’eau de Toilette de lolita “DVf is our locomotive for the future,” Cukier change, with the company’s own brands generat- lempicka’s flacon, made with Sylvie de france, was created said. roos added, “She is the reason we are here.” ing about 35 million euros, or $50.1 million, to 40 to seem like a heart-shaped bite was taken out of its side. As has been previously noted, plans call for cre- million euros, or $57.2 million, of the total. if the “The temptation is already assumed,” said lempicka ating an entire beauty house of von furstenberg, company was enlarged in the future with the addi- the designer. including other fragrances and skin care. looking tion of other brands, volume could rise to 200 mil- The same team, including lempicka and her three daugh- farther down the road, however, roos noted that lion euros, or $286 million, to 250 million euros, or ters, conceived both the edt project and the original lolita “we can envisage having other brands.” But she $357.5 million, according to estimates by sources. lempicka edp, whose core consumers are aged from 15 to 18. The fruity woody floral edt juice was created by firmenich’s Annick Ménardo. “We accentuated all the floral notes, like the jasmine and iris, and also developed a bit more the citrus note — the lemon zest — and then tempered somewhat the praline side of the fragrance, Dress for Success Gala Raises $1.75M the more oriental aspect to develop the fresh side,” said lempicka. She explained the edt has an element that’s “more mature, womanly and less sugary.” Other notes in- By JUlie nAUghTOn clude black cherry, violet wood, frankincense and musk. Both the edp and edt share the note of licorice flower. BOBBi BrOWn AnD Maureen Case “We wanted above all to do something for women who turned Manhattan’s Chelsea Piers into a really adore the lolita universe and who wish to find that Caribbean hideaway this week for Dress in a fragrance of today which isn’t the perfume of their for Success’ Worldwide gala. adolescence,” said Dauphin, adding it’s possible the core “The beach is my happy place,” said consumers’ age range for the edt could be broader. Brown of the theme for the sold-out The scent’s streamlined outer packaging features the event, held at Pier 60 on Tuesday. it drew name of the designer written large. more than 1,000 attendees, raised more The fragrance will be sold starting April 19 exclusively than $1.75 million for the organization in Sephora in france. its country-wide and international and celebrated 16 recipients of the phi- rollout will then take place beginning about two weeks af- lanthropy’s services. terward, with neiman Marcus getting the scent at the end “We’re celebrating our 20th anniver- of April, nordstrom between late April and mid-May and sary as a company,” said Brown, turning Sephora in May in the U.S. At full rollout in the U.S., the to her “partner in crime,” Case, who is scent will be in about 600 doors, said Kathy St. Clair, gen- the president of Specialty Brands for the eral manager of Parfums lolita lempicka U.S. estée lauder Cos. inc. Both are longtime The edt’s campaign was photographed by Christian Moser supporters of Dress for Success. Brown is and is to include 10- and 20-second TV spots plus single- and also on the charity’s board. “What better double-page print ads in france. The brand will not run the way to do it than to help other women?” campaign in the U.S., but will use the visuals in retailer cata- Brown also designed an ikat scarf in logues and will have a sampling strategy that will include vials shades of Mediterranean blue, manufac- on card, dramming (at nordstrom only) and deluxe miniatures. tured with echo and priced at $42, with There will be 1-oz., 1.7-oz. and 2.7-oz. edt sprays that are all proceeds benefiting Dress for Success. to retail in france for 46.60 euros, 60 euros and 77 euros, The evening honored Dress Barn, steve eichner or $66.50, $85.60 and $109.85 at current exchange, respec- by whose co-founder roslyn Jaffe accept- tively. in the U.S., the brand will sell the 1-oz. size for $48, ed on behalf of her company; goldman the 1.7 oz. for $62 and the 2.7 oz. for $82. Sachs’ 10,000 Women, with award ac- photos Pacific Creation Parfum et Beauté executives would not ceptance by esta Stecher, executive Top: Bobbi Brown with son Duke Plofker and Steven Plofker. discuss projections, but industry sources estimate the new vice president and general counsel of Above: John Demsey; Maureen Case and Macy’s Muriel Gonzales. lolita lempicka edt will ring up about 10 million euros, or goldman, Sachs & Co., and Ogilvy & $14.3 million, in first-year wholesale revenues worldwide. Mather, with award acceptance by Carla hendra, Success is an international not-for-profit organiza- The original lolita lempicka fragrance remains among the chairman, Ogilvyred, Ogilvy & Mather. guests in- tion that promotes the economic independence of top-10 bestselling women’s scents in france, which is its largest cluded nBC’s Al roker, ABC’s Deborah roberts, disadvantaged women by providing professional market, followed by Korea and the Middlee ast, said Dauphin. actress Susan Saint James and Joi gordon, chief attire, a network of support and career develop- She confirmed her group is looking to buy a beauty executive officer of Dress for Success Worldwide. ment tools, including employment retention and brand. “it takes time,” Dauphin continued. founded in new York City in 1997, Dress for mentoring programs. —WithcontributionsfromJ.n.,neWYork xxxxxxxxx,friday, xxxxxxxx april xx, 8, 2011 WWDSTYLE S3

Kardashian and Odom Talk Fragrance, Marriage and TV

same distribution dipped 1.76 percent to slightly under By Rachel BRown $193 million. Unbreakable’s sales are certainly not the easiest Don’t tell Khloe KaRDashian and lamar odom bucks lighthouse Beauty will ever earn. the around they can’t do something. 11-month process of composing the fragrance wasn’t

the headstrong married couple — she a frank reali- a walk in the park. the trouble was that lighthouse ty star never afraid to offer opinions or expose parts of Beauty, working with perfumer lisa Popoli from life often hidden behind doors (like getting a botched Givaudan on Unbreakable, had to nail down a scent bikini wax) and he a professional basketball player that didn’t repel either women or men, explained groomed on the courts in Queens who’s been instru- Zellner. “obviously, a man doesn’t want to wear any- mental in the los angeles lakers’ last two champion- thing that is too feminine and a woman doesn’t want ships — aren’t likely to take no for an answer. to wear anything that is too masculine. so you have to about a year ago in a meeting with Kardashian’s find that happy medium,” he said.

and odom’s fragrance license holder, lighthouse Kardashian worried that the happy medium ella Beauty, to discuss the idea for their perfume, odom wouldn’t be found. “towards the end, we were like, D ar declared his desire to create a unisex fragrance with ‘we’re never going to get it.’ Maybe that’s why people s his wife and didn’t get a warm reception. “lighthouse don’t do it, because it’s just not there. we really were Beauty was like, ‘absolutely not. no celebrity cou- nervous,” she said.’’ “then, finally, we started mixing Donato ples have ever done a unisex scent before,’ ” re- things, and we were like, ‘we’re getting there.’ when by called Kardashian during Unbreakable by Khloé and we did this combination — what Unbreakable is now Unbreakable by Khloé and Lamar lamar’s launch party Monday evening at the Redbury — we did a lot of dark chocolate elements, and the photos hotel in hollywood. “and lamar said, ‘this is abso- dark chocolate does pick up male pheromones and lutely what i want to do. i don’t want to do what every- women pheromones. it is kind of muskier on a man, going to see a fight with odom over Unbreakable’s cap one else has done.’ lamar was more into it when he but lighter and more citrusy on a female.” that she called one of the couple’s first big fights since was told no celebrity couples have done it.” Unbreakable by Khloé and lamar has notes of nut- their wedding, on sept. 27, 2009. turns out maybe odom was onto something. meg, bergamot, orange, geranium, jasmine, dark choco- “he didn’t like a cap that i picked, and i had a Definitely there was a risk that a unisex fragrance late, cedarwood, amber, sandalwood and musk. the clear major, major bitch fit,” said Kardashian. “But it wasn’t could alienate both men and women used to fragranc- glass bottle is emblazoned with the fragrance’s name and about the cap. it was [about] when we were trying to es delineated by gender. But the unisex concept had a graphic inspired by a tattoo the couple shares of their come up with it, he’s at practice, so i’m trying to make the upside of providing a point of difference in an first initials, and contains an architectural conical cap. decisions without him to make it easier, and it never oversaturated fragrance market suffering from a flood Photographer walter chin snapped pictures of works.” Ultimately, she continued, odom’s preferred of celebrity fragrances. “People responded well to me Kardashian and odom that cover the boxes and will cap won out — and it was for the best. “we’re very and Khloé, and our energy, and i thought the timing good at meeting at the middle. i love the cap that was perfect for us to do this together,” said odom. we have, but i was just so frustrated about the lighthouse Beauty chief executive officer, Philip other stuff,” she said. Zellner, has come to understand odom’s point of view Her having an attitude obviously, “Khloé & lamar” viewers won’t on the appeal of a unisex product from him and just be watching for tales about the fragrance. Kardashian. Retailers “are actually accept- is probably what attracts they are tuning in for a peek into the famous ing it and very open to it,” he said. “they couple’s private moments — and odom and are welcoming the uniqueness of it because Kardashian believe there’s a lot to learn about it is something that hasn’t been done, and me to her the most. them besides what people observe on the bas- change is good. the industry can get stale ketball court or read in magazines. “lamar’s sometimes, and this is a new idea.” — Lamar OdOm the craziest, funniest person,” said Kardashian. the first two deliveries of Unbreakable “he dances and sings, and is totally nuts.” by Khloé and lamar, which is avail- Kardashian’s mood swings are also exposed. able in a 3.4-oz. eau de toilette spray be in print advertising, which “the other day i cursed myself out. he thinks that’s for $45 and a 1-oz. spray for $30, Zellner said remains in the sexy, and any guy would run away from that,” she said. that entered Perfumania stores planning stages but will break odom agreeably chimed in, “her having an attitude is in time for Valentine’s Day sold in the next several months. a probably what attracts me to her the most.” out, according to Zellner. after sampling campaign doling odom and Kardashian aren’t fazed by the poor an exclusive with the retailer out hundreds of thousands history of married couples on reality tV. (Divorce is over, he said Unbreakable of samples at stores and lawyers may be as happy with reality programming would roll out to 2,500 doors events has already begun. as viewers, with the breakups of the likes of Jessica before the year is out and the Kardashians, of simpson and nick lachey and Jon and Kate Gosselin “has the potential to do course, are themselves padding their wallets.) as well as” Kardashian’s an unparalleled mar- “if you’re going to live your life by the numbers sister Kim’s namesake keting machine. “Khloé and statistics, then you should stay by yourself and fragrance. industry & lamar,” which will be a loner because for the normal person with a nine- sources projected that make its debut’’ sunday to-five regular job, marriage isn’t working out,” said the Kim Kardashian by on the e network, is the odom. Kardashian said, “if there are cracks in your Kim Kardashian scent, latest installment of a foundation, with a tV show or without, you’re going which hit the market Kardashian reality pro- to find out, and with a tV show you find out faster. i’m last year and is sold gramming franchise that not a big superstitious person. i don’t have a fear of at target and Macy’s, has scored high cable rat- that stuff.” would generate roughly ings, especially with cov- as for the future of the brand, odom and $50 million in first-year eted female viewers from Kardashian are laying the groundwork with the show retail sales. chicago- 18- to 34-years-old, since and the fragrance; Kardashian asserted the pair based market research “Keeping Up with the wouldn’t sign onto projects they aren’t “150 percent firm symphonyiRi Kardashians” premiered passionate about.” Group data shows in 2007. the shows have “we want to promote who we are and how much we that sales of the top 20 become powerful platforms love each other. we don’t want to exploit one another, women’s fragrances in to promote the Kardashians’ and we are doing what makes us happy right now and mass market retail- many product endorsements, just building our brand off of love,” she said. odom ers, supermarkets and and the development of the added, “this might be the first fragrance. it might be drugstores excluding Unbreakable fragrance the last. this might be the first show we do, and it might wal-Mart increased 0.3 is woven into the story be the last. the next move we make together might be percent to nearly $311 line of “Khloé & lamar.” real estate, who knows? But whatever comes our way million, and the top 20 Kardashian divulged, for and whatever is natural that we both agree on and see men’s fragrances in the example, that audiences are eye-to-eye on, we won’t have a problem doing it.” Khloé Kardashian and Lamar Odom beautyy insider’s choice The 2011 CeW BeauTy aWards FINaLIsTs finalist The MOsT INNOVaTIVe NeW PrOduCTs as VOTed ON By CeW MeMBers

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system–day sPF 30 and Lip Contour regenerating Cream Estée Lauder Pure Color Gloss Foaming Lotion T SUPER by Dr. Nicholas Perricone

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Categories and entry Ballots tabulated by: requirements developed with: reserVe TICKeTs NOW @ CeW.OrG S6 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, APRIL 8, 2011 beauty Fergie’s Bold Point of View

{Continued from page one} with Guns N’ Roses guitarist Slash — will air in select markets. The ultrapetite songstress bounded into in small gathering of beauty edi- tors on Wednesday with the same gusto and energy she exuded later in the day when strutting onto the stage at Madison Square Garden in front of 5,000 Avon direct-sales representatives, who leapt to their feet and hooted and hollered in excitement upon seeing her. The gathering marked the New York City stop of the company’s global 16-city “Avon Believe World Tour,” a yearlong celebration to fete Avon’s 125 years. The decibel of noise in the arena rose even higher when Jung pointed out that Fergie’s hus- band, actor Josh Duhamel, was sitting

in the audience. (Duhamel also showed support for his wife during a photo shoot earlier that day by remarking, “She’s really good at this,” as she confidently moved from one pose to the next.) Inside the arena, as representatives

waved pom-poms, clapped and cheered, Fergie thanked the crowd for making Outspoken Avon’s best-selling scent. “ Yo u guys went out there and did the work. Thank you so much for kicking butt for me,” she said. Fergie surprised Jung and the rep- ’’ resentatives present by singing a sultry, rocker-meets-Marilyn Monroe-esque “Happy Birthday” to Avon. Before her onstage appearance, Fergie talked with WWD about her plans ne

for the year ahead and how she’s at- O cc

tempting to nab some more downtown A nn

after spending most of 2010 on tour with A I the Black Eyed Peas. “They knew I need- ed a break and for it not to be so hectic, and they’ve been respectful of that.” THOMAS BY She’s using the extra time at home Here, Outspoken Intense. Above: An image for a grand spring cleaning project. PHOTOS from the fragrance’s promotional video. “I’ve gotten to clean out some of my closets, which has been kind of an emo- tional letting go,” she said. “I just went through my tennis shoe collection, which played, motivational speeches were was big. It was like saying good-bye to all It’s really right before I go given, Believe logos were prominently my old friends.” Referring to her earlier displayed and songs were belted as rep- days with the Black Eyed Peas, she said, resentatives cheered along. “I had a little bit of a sneaker fetish, es- on [stage] that my heart starts Jung enthusiastically declared to the pecially for Jordans. I didn’t get rid of audience that Avon has more than $10 any of my Air Jordans.” Scarfs and her beating faster. The adrenaline billion in annual revenue and is five coveted collection of heels were also part times larger than its direct competitor, of her closet purge. “I’m kind of a Carrie the Dallas-based Mary Kay, which elic- Bradshaw in that way. ‘Hello lovers!,” she kicks in. That’s the feeling. ited a thunder of applause from the au- said, mimicking the “Sex and the City” dience. “They may hear you in Dallas,” character’s salutation to her shoes. “I re- — FERGIE said Jung. She noted that collectively ally enjoy purging my closet because I’m Avon’s representatives earn about finding pieces that I’d forgotten about. I’m For a celebrity so candid about over- said, “Possibly. Yo u never know. It’s all $4.8 billion, which is larger than some going, ‘This is Gaultier. Why is this in the coming obstacles, especially addictions, about expression... I would need time to well-known global companies. She also back of my closet folded up in a corner? It she’s determined to move forward, in- focus, because I get a little obsessed.” hinted at upcoming products to drive up should be in the front row!’” cluding with this project. Fergie’s connection goes beyond their average order sizes, including a Once the clothes leave her closet, “Now that I’m purging and my closet beauty with Avon, which has raised skin care product that uses a “Fountain her mother, sister and cousins have looks amazing, I’m splurging!” more than $800 million for women’s of Youth molecule,” and the mom and first dibs, and sift through the pieces in On her wish list are fake fur coats from causes, including breast cancer re- baby care line, Tiny Tillia. “Women a guest room that Fergie’s temporarily Anna Sui and Altuzarra’s neon belts. “I search. The singer said her grandmoth- spend two times more on their baby dubbed “The Purge Room.” think people are ready to take the neon er lost her battle with cancer two years than they do on their beauty,” said Jung. “There is a rule: Once it’s in the plunge, because I definitely am.” ago, and her mother and father are can- Both initiatives are slated for the room I don’t get it back. I’ve already And downtime is not all that com- cer survivors. fourth quarter. made the decision to let it go.” mon. Between promoting the Black Jung said that since Avon took on Jung and Fergie spoke of Avon She attributes her overflowing clos- Eyed Peas’ new album “The Beginning” the breast cancer cause in 1992, rep- Voices, a global singing and songwriting ets to being fearful that one day all the and appearances at the Super Bowl and resentatives have sold ’’70 million pink contest tied to the company’s 125th an- success and all the fame may go poof. “A the Nickelodeon Kids’ Choice Awards, ribbon products. niversary celebration. lot of it has never been worn. I was just Fergie is busy fronting her Avon fra- The atmosphere and energy in the Fergie will help judge the competi- keeping it because when I was really lit- grances and its Advance Techniques arena, as well as Jung’s prowess at tion. She reminded the crowd voting be- tle, I got clothes from the church. So for hair care range, and designing her shoe revving up the crowd, made the event gins April 22 and said more than 6,000 me it was about thinking it’s all going to collection with Brown Shoe Co. seem more like a presidential nominat- videos have been sent in. “These sing- end.…I had to really take myself out of As for if she’d consider adding a fash- ing convention. Colorful lights swept ers are amazing. And I think I’m a pretty that mentality.” ion line to her creative endeavors, she across the stage, tear-jerking videos good judge — I hope.” friday, april 8, 2011 WWDSTYLE S7 Bumble Buzzes Into Print Ad Campaign

BUMBle AnD BUMBle continues to pioneer how a salon brand can enter the retail arena while maintaining — and even driving — business to its 2,400 U.s. network salons. This May, Bumble is launching its first print advertising campaign, which is intended to make 20 million impressions in its two-month commitment, to grow the brand’s awareness, which is admittedly low. The move follows Bumble’s announcement this week that its products are expanding from 10 sephora stores — where they were tested in key markets for six months — to all sephora stores in north America, excluding sephora’s store-in-stores in J.C. Penney.

The scene at the Esxence trade fair. Milan’s Scent Fair Attendance Up 20%

By Kerry Olsen

MIlAn — The mood for niche scents wafting around the fragrance sector has clearly put trade fair esxence on the industry map. The third edi- tion of the four-day exhibition that closed here April 3 drew 4,937 visitors, an uptick of 20 percent compared to last year. According to esxence organizer Celso Fadelli, buyers from la rinascente, Coin, Printemps, Harvey nichols, russian retailer Douglas rivoli and Dubai’s Paris Gallery were among those trolling the fair. Fellow fair organizer silvio levi, of distribution firm Calè srl, kicked off the exhibition by under- lining the sector’s potential. last year, Italy’s ar- tistic perfumery sector recorded retail sales of 134 million euros, or $192 million, an uptick of around A Bumble and bumble ad image featuring hairstylist Jimmy Paul. 12 percent compared to 2009. Oud-based and patriotic scents headlined the Because it’s a key anchor brand to sephora’s hair sec- exhibition. Profumi del Forte introduced 150 tion, the balance of about 250 sephora stores will dedicate Parfum to commemorate the 150th anniversary a similar amount of space to Bumble as those that tested of Italian unification, whilst rome-based eau it, including fully Bumble-branded merchandising, custom- d’Italie unveiled its latest unisex citrus juice, ized fixtures and, in select locations, touch screens. One Jardin du Poete (the poet’s garden), inspired by aspect of the retail partnership that will change — which sicily and created by perfumer Bertrand Jardin du Poete Bumble learned from the test — is that, going forward, Duchaufour. Company founder by Eau d’Italie. Bumble will hold biannual national salon client referral sebastián Alvarez Murena said events, where the consumer who purchases a full-size prod- sales grew 10 percent last year store Holt renfrew in August, and uct will get a styling card entitling her to a free 30-minute but are still below 2009 levels. launch in the Middle east before sum- consultation and blow-dry or style at a participating net- The brand is carried in about mer. Intertrade also introduced Bond work salon. This replaces a promotion that gave consumers 300 doors worldwide and is set Celso no.9’s new york Oud, originally cre- discounts on haircuts at Bumble network salons. It turns to open in the Australian market Fadelli ated for Harrods in 2008 and now set out consumers often felt they were “cheating” on their later this year. for worldwide distribution. usual stylist, making them hesitant to try someone new. Meanwhile, on a royal tip, standout novelties included The ads, which will appear in May and June editions of Boadicea the Victorious touted swedish brand Agonist with its new Vanity Fair, Allure, nylon and new york magazine, among its new fruity scent, called regal line of natural scents packaged in one- other titles, come in two versions. One ad shows a model close and created by london-based nose off glass sculptures and set to rollout from up with a perfectly undone, textured hairstyle; the other fo- Michael Boadi. A 50-ml. flacon is 120 June. Prices range from 600 euros, or $858, for cuses on the relationship between a hairstylist and model euros, or around $172. resurrected historical the scents to 150 euros, or $215, for the spray line. — behind the scenes. Both feature Bumble texture hair(un) english perfume house Grossmith, revived by French brand nez à nez, introduced Immortelle dressing creme, a hair styler designed to create the perfect simon Brooke, a great-great-grandson of the Marilyn, a fruity women’s edp intended to evoke rolled-out-of-bed, textured look, that launched in March and founder, previewed its latest eau de parfum, the legend of Marilyn Monroe; 100-ml. flacons re- has since become Bumble’s number-three best-selling sku, be- Betrothal, based on an updated historical formula tail for 115 euros, or about $165. The Paris-based hind the venerable Thickening spray and sumotech products. created for the marriage of Princess May of Teck maison is carried in 160 doors worldwide, includ- sales of Texture in March, said Bumble and bumble president to George V in 1893. Floris also showcased a scent ing Henri Bendel in the U.s, Printemps in Paris Peter lichtenthal, were 20 percent ahead of plan. dubbed Wedding Bouquet. and liberty and Fenwick in the U.K. “Our brand The ads were designed to tell a story in fashion, styling A coterie of ouds included German niche requires human resources to sell it,” said co- and products — all components of Bumble’s DnA. brand Humiecki & Graef unveiling its eighth founder Christa Patout. swiss nose Vero Kern, who “Overall, brand awareness is actively low, but once there fragrance, called Blask, slated for a global roll- launched her own line of artisanal scents in 2008 is brand awareness, loyalty is extremely high.…We are a pro out in the fall. sebastian Fischenich, co-owner called Vero profumo, was in agreement. “I want to brand finding new ways to draw new business and [to drive of Humiecki & Graef, described it as a new re- grow distribution, but I need good people selling business] to our core [salon] channel,” said lichtenthal. interpretation of an oud, although it doesn’t them,” she said. “In northern europe, there still He stressed that the ad campaign is incremental sup- utilize the ingredient. Formulated by perfum- remains the culture of buying what you find in port to the brand, and is likely to emerge again in the fall. er duo les Christophs, the juice is composed glossy magazines.” He said while Bumble’s launch campaign is a spread, sin- of bay leaf oil, red wine and a woody walnut. Calè unveiled two woody scents, called Fulgor gle-page ads are possible, too. “Many people call their scents niche, but it’s — created by Maurizio Cerizza and silvio levi — Bumble also has a digital ad campaign in the works, only a strategy. It’s important that the product and roboris, by Mark Buxton and levi, inspired to make an additional 10 million impressions. Details are itself is niche,” said Fischenich. by storms in Death Valley. Perfumer lorenzo still being hammered out. “I try to stay away from the idea of niche. Villoresi showcased Iperborea, inspired by the Bumble, which is sold in the top 1 percent of salons, is I would describe Byredo as an independently nordic hyperborean winds, and Italian brand also sold in Bloomingdale’s 59th street, space nK, Colette owned fragrance house,” said Ben Gorham of nasomatto (meaning “crazy nose” in Italian) and Mecca. Bumble is exploring ways to expand distribution his stockholm-based perfume house, founded unveiled Pardon, a riff on masculine elegance. with Bloomingdale’s, lichtenthal said, but could not add de- in 2006. He was exhibiting at the fair with Italy- Costume national kicked off its new “pop col- tails. The ads also appear at a time when the salon industry based fragrance distributor Intertrade europe lection,” an energetic, fruity edp in four colored needs a push to return to levels it had prior to the recession. and its latest releases Oud Immortel and Accord flacons created by renowned nose Dominique sales in 2010 for the overall professional industry has been Oud. The brand is set to hit Canadian department ropion; 100-ml. flacons are 85 euros, or $122. reported as up 2 percent over 2009. — AndreA nAgel S8 WWDSTYLE friday, april 8, 2011 eye New Kids On the Block

By AlessAndrA CodinhA

A spring deluge is apparently no match for a collector of postwar and contemporary art. it is 10 a.m. on a Thursday, and it’s standing-room-only at Christie’s First open auction in Manhattan. The sale is known for its more “accessible” lots: works that aren’t cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but are available at price points not generally seen at this address. Throughout the room potential buyers are kicking Max Carter sodden umbrellas aside or gently flattening damp and Sara tresses with swift hands, careful not to acciden- Friedlander tally signal the auctioneer. The men tend toward at Christie’s. well-tailored suits, crisp and prim in toothsome houndstooth checks or solid tones of navy, black eye and gray. some answer their phones quietly, and and-yellow-highlighter-hued bouffant. The red be a jet-setter or a high roller to participate,” says some speak in foreign accents. carpet outside 20 rockefeller plaza was lined rowley. “efforts like that, with Christie’s and Kalup, “$61,500!” offers a young man standing toward the with a wall-size green hedge, in front of which lumi- or ours, to give younger people a way to be fully in- back of the room. he is clad in jeans and a leather naries from the art, fashion and social realms posed volved and learning about the artists and to start col- jacket, and is bidding on a solvent transfer and fabric for photographers alongside hollywood starlets. lecting now are genius. get them while they’re young. collage by robert rauschenberg. Christie’s is making a statement, loud and clear: if you can buy a ryan Mcginley photograph now for “6-1-5? Wrong house, sir...” The auctioneer’s laugh We are not your grandfather’s auction house. $5,000, you will probably be buying a John Currin is gentle, but not kind. This is the 245-year-old grand The effort, at least for now, seems to be working. painting for millions of dollars later in life. Art gets dame of the auction world, and they have set the bid The March 10 auction exceeded its estimate by $2 in your blood, you get passionate about it.” increase on this piece at $5,000. This is not an offer- million, and its ultimate tally of $10.3 million makes • • • what-you-feel-like establishment. it the highest grossing First open sale since the pre- At Christie’s on the day before the First open, “We don’t take ious either,” the auctioneer jokes, recession days of March 2007. Friedlander is lounging on one of four brightly col- before explaining, “We’ll take 6-5.” she pauses, look- “The average age of a patron of the Met has gone ored Franz West chairs (that eventually sold for ing directly at him. down to 58,” says Carter. “They are so incredibly ex- $25,000) in the midst of a gallery she has set up. “6-3?” The young man asks, as a scruffily bearded cited by that, because it’s under 60 for once. We’re “i’m interested in educating a public who might not cohort smiles into his paper cup of coffee. not quite as bad as that at Christie’s, but when we necessarily be in tune with the art market,” she ex- “not 6-3 and not 6-4,” the auctioneer laughs again, have major collectors in their mid- to late 30s, we’re plains. Works are available for viewing a day or two be- and begins scanning the rest of the crowd, the staff pretty pleased about it.” fore they hit the auction block, and this is Friedlander’s working the telephones and her colleague manning • • • first experience hanging so many. The lots have been the Christie’s liVe internet bidders. so warned, on a private tour of the catacomblike underbelly of shown salon-style, without their identifiers, and the re- the man in jeans ponies up the $65,000 (not includ- Christie’s during the week leading up to the sale, sult feels as if one is in the middle of a well-curated ing buyer’s premium), and the rauschenberg is his. Friedlander is hands-on. “Touch it,” she grins, of- private collection instead of a sale. A jokey fist-pump, an approving grin from his friend fering up a painting. “Feel the texture [of the paint]. “i put all the lot cards on at first, and it just looked and it’s on to the next piece, an untitled ray Johnson And look at the back of the frame: sometimes, the like sh-t,” she laughs, “so, no lot cards, which is caus- cardboard creation that depicts a large spoon with back of the frame is my favorite part, because most ing quite a stir.” the lucky strike logo slapped across it. people never get to see it.” Both Carter and Friedlander use the word “intimi- As the bid enters the ledger, one of the several attrac- Carter surveys a recent dali acquisition with a dating” several times in describing the amount of re- tive young women manning the telephones smiles to her- black light. “This is what you want to see,” he says of sponsibility they’ve been vested with. it is, of course, self. she is wearing a teal shift dress, and her energetic the unmarred canvas, his teeth and eyes illuminated a business made of aged experts and their (typically) demeanor, more cheerleader than art expert, makes her in the blackness like a halloween decoration. “This equally aged patron-peers. fellow Christie’s employees seem muted. her name is is good news.” “Your head is spinning for the first few months sara Friedlander, and one could argue that this young Walking among stacks of framed works waiting to working here,” Carter explains. “But in a good way: collector — and the large contingent of his 40-and-under be hung, Friedlander enthuses over some and rolls it’s baptism by fire, and the challenge is good. You cohorts in the room — are here because of her. her eyes at others. “With this one,” she shrugs, ges- never want it to be normal. You always want to be Friedlander, 27, was promoted to head of the First turing at a painting, a splash of colorful pigments and challenged by new things, seeing new things.” open in January. her expertise lies in post-sixties not much else, “you’ve seen one, you’ve kinda seen Friedlander agrees: “When i first came here, i was American paintings and photography, with an em- them all. not my favorite. But some people’s. quite intimidated. The world’s leading auction busi- phasis on work by female artists. she almost vibrates “The First open used to be a dumping ground, re- ness is a bit of a powerhouse!” when she talks about works she likes, and she’s ally, the cheaper lots, the sh-t nobody cared about,” • • • prone to wild gestures and wide grins. The house has Friedlander explains. “We’ve changed all that.” Friedlander frequently references the cover lot of tapped her, along with her co-worker, Max Carter — a A wall-size roy lichtenstein felt banner depicts a the First open’s catalogue, whether to discuss its 24-year-old associate specialist for impressionist and pistol with a disembodied hand wrapped around it, frame or its historical importance. “it’s my favorite Modern Art (and son of Vanity Fair’s graydon) — to pointed straight at the viewer. “This is from 1964, it’s piece in this sale,” she says, “the Jean dubuffet [es- help lead its recent efforts to attract a more youth- one of 20,” says Friedlander as she unfurls it and en- timated at $300,000-$400,000, it sold for $698,500]. it’s ful clientele, an initiative that recently has moved courages all present to stroke the felt. “it’s the cool- from 1961, he’d just left the countryside and returned Christie’s a bit out of its comfort zone. on March 7, est. i’m obsessed with it.” to paris.…The title is ‘l’erratique,’ or ‘The erratic for example, it held a cocktail event in honor of the it is doubtful that most of Christie’s esteemed and one,’ which i have to say i think is emblematic of me First open based around performance artist Kalup established staff use words like “psyched,” “obsessed” — with this sale and trying to shake things up a bit. linzy, the first event of its kind for the auction house. or “sh-t” with any regularity when they speak with “it’s a labor of love,” she says. “of course it’s hard in February, it co-hosted a cocktail party with gucci, the press, but Carter and Friedlander make no bones to put yourself on the line. But it’s so exciting.” previewing some of the lots from the First open. A about their youth and their vigor. Yet Christie’s is not Friedlander and Carter repeatedly go out of their few small works were actually inside the display the only institution courting the youth vote. phillips way to emphasize the accessibility of Christie’s, and cases at the italian fashion giant’s Madison Avenue de pury, another auction house giant, had simon de thus their devotion to the house. “You can find out boutique. (“if you’ll spend $5,000 on a handbag,” pury appearing as a mentor to reality TV contestants anything you want about any picture,” Friedlander Friedlander told WWd in the run-up to the First on Bravo’s “Work of Art,” as well as the dandy-ish promises on multiple occasions. “i’m here for that. open, “why not spend it on a painting?”) Alexander gilkes as a draw for youthful collectors. This is my entire life.” And, last week, Christie’s and Vogue teamed for Then there’s exhibition A, a members-only Web site Carter strikes a similar chord. “runway to green,” a black-tie event for the cock- recently launched by Cynthia rowley and Bill powers, “i’ve become a very strange dinner guest, i real- tail-swilling environmentally aware smart set that which has made an effort to make collectible art (the ize,” he says. “i’m always noting people’s art and mak- boasted a live auction (emceed by seth Meyers), a site boasts signed and numbered prints from artists like ing these quick mental appraisals. You can’t exactly runway show (featuring looks from Alexander Wang, richard phillips, nate lowman, Terence Koh, david march up to someone’s painting and write down the Marc Jacobs, Thakoon, Jason Wu and others) and a laChapelle and rene ricard) available at lower prices. information when you’re in their home. You’ve got to performance by the not-exactly-conservative rapper “i love that Christie’s had Kalup [linzy] perform. get good at the quick mental notes. But it’s my life. nicki Minaj -— complete with gravity-defying green- Art seems like this rarefied world, like you have to And i got that dubuffet for the First open, didn’t i?” PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY