Roaming around the South

Although the weather in the evening was full of rain clouds in the sky, the Smartphone’s weather app continuously showed rain for the next 3 days. This was the forecast for us to know that in the mentioned period of the Kawasaki Discovery Southern trip in which we were going to the South, the middle of the rainy season was like this. The chance of getting very wet was extremely high and many people thought that it would not be suitable, but when we asked ourselves and various friends about putting up with heavy work to earn a living all the time, everyone gave the same answer that it was time that we had to reward ourself. When we had a vehicle and friends, then what were we waiting for?

So in the evening of one day, the In the morning in Nakhon City, according to a chronicle was centre of Nakhon Si Thammarateverything was not as anticipated. constructed in 1163 to house the City opened its doors to welcome us. The bright indigo sky that lacked any Buddha’s relics. Various shops began to close around 8 rain clouds surprised us; however, p.m., so it would be very quiet. Anyway, it probably would not rain very there was the lively night market that much. If the weather app or the Thai welcomed tourists to stroll about like Meteorological Department was us. The Southern food that we ordered wrong, we would not know. But the was delivered very quickly, and the thing that we were sure about was it ingredients that were hot and spicy seemed like luck had fallen on people intertwined with the local character in like us. Therefore, after finishing which the sound was annoying. This breakfast, we departed as a Versys increased the atmosphere of the night group from the accommodation that made us know that we were really and headed for “Wat Phra Mahathat in an ancient capital city of the South Woramahawihan”, an ancient Buddhist before we returned to sleep and woke centre of the South that enshrines the up to enjoy life. Phra Borommathat Chedi, which After waking up, filling our stomachs, feeling happy that all our friends had assembled together, we started a new chapter along the route around the roof of the South that would be noted down in our memoirs. We set off as a caravan and headed for the first destination, “Tham Hong”, Khao Nan National Park Protection Unit 6, Ban Nop Phi Dam, Tambon Krung Ching. Departing from Nakhon City, we followed Highway No. 4016 for about 30 kilometres. Riding along this route was very easy, as the road was well paved with few difficulties like the community market, so we had to slow down for our own and others safety. The route in this part was very easy, With a torch, we entered into as some members using the Bluetooth the darkness along the 300-metre headset said “Wow, that’s easy.” But trail. There was cool water to relieve they were unaware that it was only a ourselves from the heat and fresh air. Tham Hong warm-up route because Tham Hong This adventure was comfortable and that awaited us was not ordinary. refreshingly clean more than other Tham Hong or Hong Cave is located small caves. Anyone who is interested at Ban Phi Tam, Mu 3, Tambon It was like that because when all of in visiting the cave should bring along Krung Ching, Amphoe Nop Phi tam, us had arrived at our destination, we a torch and waterproof camera, as well Nakhon Si Thammarat province. It had to take off our biker’s clothes and as be fit, as you will crawl for a long is situated in the Khao Nan National change into T-shirt and shorts. We time and your arms will not be too Park and was discovered by some walked through the forest and into the tired to enjoy the fun. But believe us, it people in1994. The interior consists very narrow cave mouth. was worth it. of strange-looking stalagmites and stalactites, and the special feature We were soaked, but came out and is a stream flowing through the cleaned off the sweat with a big smile. cave before going underground It was almost midday and even though into an outer stream. There is also we did not have a watch, when the a waterfall with more than 5 tiers. stomach is hungry, it tells the time Walking through the Cave requires accurately. For lunch today, we rode walking through water by following a little way to “Nam Phrai Won” the stream for about 300 metres. (Kho Nam in short), a real Southern The cave is the habitat of numerous restaurant that had a healthy menu of bats; thus, it is considered to be a forest vegetables and first-class local suitable place for a nature study. If food in a buffet style. This was called visiting during the rainy season, you like this because if hungry, then go to need to be very careful, as there may any port, so in coming here, we got be a lot of water, so it might not be a fat belly from one place. We ate till suitable for visiting. The reason why we were full before going to see the it is called Hong Cave comes from a beautiful garden and camping ground legend that says there was a hunter on top of the mountain behind the who went into the forest to hunt and restaurant. After that, we rested but found a Hongsa (swan) in this cave. our destination awaited us at the Dat It is open: 08.00 - 16.00 Hrs. Fa Waterfall, Tai Rom Yen National Park, Surat Thani province. In the afternoon, when we reached Amphoe Na San during this season, we saw clusters of reddish green rambutan on the trees alternating with the green of the trees creating a beautiful sight that stirred up our saliva along the way. Anyone who knew would know that Na San rambutan is sweet and is number one for its flavour, an experience that should not be missed if coming to this district. The sound of the Bluetooth headset said, “Stop and buy”; however, Maybe the remaining distance was we did not stop. We persuaded each going to be a bit dull; we did not know. other to stop to find food to take to the Ek Outdoor took charge of planning camp at small shops along the way, and the route that would take us through it would be better to reach the Dat Fa the rainforest that would be thrilling. Not only that, this was an opportunity for us to see the real capability of the Versys on a route that was like an on- off one regardless if the engine’s power was suitable and sufficient. Also, the manner of riding and controlling the vehicle had to be excellent for all kinds of road conditions, or the set of carrier bags that were full of camping equipment had to pass the set route Waterfall camping ground. The time and could not be too bulky. passed till it was neavrly 4 p.m. In the forest, the sunlight still splashed its rays till quickly disappearing among the cluster of trees like it was playing with us. However, we travellers knew this well and hurried to bathe in the cold stream in the unspoiled virgin forest. Following that, we made a fire for a barbecue that made our hair smell again while eating before retiring to our tents. Whoever did not sleep, laid down and counted the stars, releasing the limitations of city life of nonsense that would not even be thought of at this time.

(Tai Rom Yen National Park) Tai Rom Yen National Park is the 73rd national park of Thailand. In the past, it used to be a red area in the forest, as it was a Communist base that fought against the government and who had a lot of influence in the area of Amphoe Ban Na San, Surat Thani province until the government fought against them in the Tai Rom Yen battle. General Han Leelanon, Commander of the 4th Division finally brought peace to the area and established it to be a national park, and named it after the battle, “Tai Rom Yen” The water in the streams could be drunk without feeling afraid of anything. Also, the mountain forest of the South had a few communities living on top of the mountains.

Walking to experience the nature of the roof of the South did not end here. After we were ready, we departed and headed for “Tham Khamin”, our next destination. It was not too far from where we had stayed the previous night. This cave was very interesting, as it is the largest one in the South and is in the same area as the Dat Fa In the morning, we slowly woke up Waterfall, which is in the Tai Rom Yen refreshed before sunrise to prepare National Park. ourselves to play in the Dat Fa Waterfall as a reward for breakfast. When we We did not wait and followed the thought and paused that if this trip had Park officer up 207 steps to the cave not decided to take the risk about the mouth in which this area had a Phu rain, then we would not have had the Chao Saming Phrai Shrine that the chance to enjoy the aromatic air and local people highly respected. After sweet sunshine that surrounded us on passing through the mouth of the cave, this Sunday morning. Instead of being we descended down the iron steps to in the centre of a large city, we were at a the cave floor where a jeep was parked. clear, cool flowing stream that did not Anyone seeing this would be amazed have the smell of chlorine, but hurled as to how it got here. The answer given itself down from the high clifftop. by the Park officer to us was the jeep Water particles wafted dampness onto was assembled in the cave for travelling our body; the wind blew over the deep inside it during the saltpeter crevices of the stream while the water was carried all over the area before cascading down onto the rocks and sand below and produced a sound that could not be described. All of this was a reward as well as had value that could not be compared to any amount of money. The motorcycle and the time we gave to ourselves was the reward that was beyond description. This was the Southern forest that could display its true abundance.

(Tham Khamin) Tham Khamin or Khamin Cave is located in the Tai Rom Yen National Park. It is also known by another name as “Tham Men” and is the largest cave in the South. It is a large and spacious limestone cave, and the interior has beautiful stalagmites and stalactites. It is also the habitat of numerous bats. There is a nature trail that is 1,250 metres long that has been arranged to see the interior of the cave. appearing before us of the beauty of the landscape. Under this beauty, we could see the hidden tragedy that the Thai people of the South would like to forget from their memory, especially those who were involved in the incident. This was the night that will haunt them till they die. One night in November 1988, when everyone was asleep, the top of the surrounding mountains was very wet from the continuous rain, and the strength of the storm created a landslide of mud, rocks, and trees that covered the lives and property of the people of 4 villages. concession. Besides this, we saw traces of the past; such as, tyre tracks From the Kathun Reservoir, we rode and various kinds of equipment. From along the route for about another 50 there, we walked to see various rooms kilometres to the Khao Men Resort that had strange-looking stalagmites to stop for lunch. This place only has and stalactites with different names accommodation and a restaurant, and according to the imagination of the is a place to see the scenery of the peak person giving the name; for example, of Khao Men, which is 1,307 metres Apollo’s courtyard, the vase room, above mean sea level. It is a destination Princess’ room, pink curtain, etc. for those people who love to trek in the forest. We sat and ate lunch together We turned back to follow the route looking at the grandeur and beauty of that we had come before turning onto the peak as well as listened to various Route No. 4009 and then continued on stories about it till we could imagine Highway Nos. 4229 and 4015 for about seeing the beauty of the scenery from 51 kilometres then turned left and went the top of this mountain. on for another 6 kilometres to reach the “Kathun Reservoir”, which is a Before leaving, we could not go large lake with a widespread panorama without looking at this mountaintop to as far as the eye could see surrounded bid farewell. Then we headed out and by undulating mountains that hugged followed Route No. 4015 for about 21 each other around the Reservoir. This kilometres passing the steep mountains was a beautiful backdrop, and we stood and one of the most beautiful routes of for a while on top of the Reservoir’s Thailand. Sometimes while riding, we wall with the wind blowing onto our forgot that this was a route of Southern body. We were surprised by the image

Kathun Reservoir Kathun Reservoir, located in Tambon Kathun, Amphoe Phibun, Nakhon Si Thammarat province, is a part of the Royal Initiative of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej in which the King saw the suffering of the people, who experienced major flooding in 1988. The King had an initiative for the Royal Irrigation Department to construct a reservoir. This was completed in 1997 and covers an area of 12,500 rai. It is a very large reservoir and under the water is the old village of Kathun. Not too far away is another reservoir, the Khlong Din Daeng Reservoir in Ban Thung Ron, Tambon Khao Phra, Amphoe Phibun, Nakhon Si Thammarat province. (Khao Men) Khao Men is the highest peak of Namtok Yong National Park located in Tambon Chang Klang, Amphoe Chang Klang, Nakhon Si Thammarat province. It is 1,307 metres above mean sea level with a cool climate, strong wind, and cloud covering the mountain nearly all year. From the viewpoint of the peak of Khao Men, you can clearly see the surrounding scenery, the sunrise and sunset, and the communities of Amphoe Na Bon, Amphoe Thung Song, Amphoe Chang Klang, and Amphoe Lan Saka. The name of Khao Men came from “Khao Phra Sumeru” that the people of the South popularly call “Khao Meru”. After some time, the name was slightly distorted to be “Khao M e n”.

To travel to the peak, you must request for permission from the officer. The condition of the forest on the peak is mountain rainforest with short trees with the canopy being about 3-5 metres tall. The branches and trunks are densely covered with moss, ferns, as well as various other species of plants. Most species belong to the Xylia xylocarpa, Theaceae, Fagraea ceilanica Thunb, Malabar Melastome, Begonia families, and most important of all is the Dipteris conjugate and members of the ginger and galangal family. Besides this, there are various species of wild orchids, especially Paphiopedilum, a species of the South that is a local orchid.

Thailand. The enviornment was not any different from the North during the rainy season. We arrived at the Lan Saka Hospital and turned left to head towards Muban Khiriwong for another 9 kilometres. We then reached the beautiful mountain community hidden in the middle of the valley that was like a village in a fairy tale. The scenery of the forest, river, as well as the peaceful way of life could hardly be described in words. Many people say that this is really a village of dreams. (Ban Khiriwong) Muban Khiriwong is a village located in the centre of a valley in Amphoe Lan Saka, Nakhon Si Thammarat province. It is an old village in which the first villagers migrated here in the reign of King Rama I the Great. It is nestled in the area of the valley of Khao Luang and called the “5 villages of valley water” because it is situated in an area that is a water source and has many species of plants. Later, the name was changed to be Ban Khiriwong, which means the village is surrounded by mountains. When the number of villagers increased, it was divided into 4 villages covering an area of 8,173 rai comprising Ban Khiriwong, Ban Khiri Thong, Ban Khun Khiri, and Ban Khiri Tham. The main occupation of the people of Ban Khiriwong is growing fruit; such as, durian, mangosteen, rambutan, long kong, etc.

The most interesting activity of Muban Khiriwong is staying in a homestay and eating local food. If you come during the fruit season, there will be a lot of fruit for to you to try as well as visiting various places; for example, an old boat that was made from a whole tree trunk called “Ruea Nuea”, the Flood Memorial 1975 and 1988, the landscape that is the symbol of the way of life, see and buy various kinds of OTOP products. These have been divided into groups; such as, the lacework group, herbal house group, tied dyeing group, the leaves group, the candle making group, Luk Yi Sam Rot group, coconut shell basket weaving group, and stirred dried durian group. The products that have been selected as 5-star OTOP products include natural tied dyed fabric. In 1998, the village also won an Award of Excellence in the Thailand Tourism Awards in the City and Community category in which it has a way of life like orchardists living in harmony with nature. The best time to visit this village is during April to September, especially if you are interested in trekking through the forest, climbing mountains, and studying nature. To see the orchards on the mountains, the Khiriwong community has a guide and porter service for tourists.

We said good-bye to Muban Khiriwong in a hurry, which was so convincing as many people gave themselves a sign that we should come back and visit again for sure. We left the village in the valley behind with a promise and came out on another route to follow the Tha Yai-Khiriwong Ring Road for about 7 kilometres to Route No. 4015 and headed to Nakhon City. This was the final way of the route around the roof of the South, a distance of approximately more than 300 kilometres and proof of the performance of the Versys and ourselves. But looking back, this was a destination that had no end, but it was a route which led to a new meaning and awaited us at the next opportunity.