Marrakech Viewing Trip in the 1960S, Bohemians Journeyed to Marrakech to Experience North Africa at Its Most Mysterious
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Morocco Ó PROPERTY Marrakech VIEWING TRIP IN THE 1960S, BOHEMIANS JOURNEYED TO MARRAKECH TO EXPERIENCE NORTH AFRICA AT ITS MOST MYSTERIOUS. NOWADAYS, it’s A MAGNET FOR ADVENTUROUS PROPERTY INVESTORS. WE TOOK RUTH PEPPer to the ‘red city’ to DRINK MINT TEA AND CHECK OUT THE LIE OF THE LAND WORDS DAN SAVERY PICTURES LEWIS HOUGHTON sk any experts in overseas makes no bones about his number one senses,” says Ruth. “It’s just so full of property for their top five priority – increased tourism. life and colour. Probably the best thing investment hotspots and However, at the moment, Marrakech about it is the people – they’re so hard- Morocco is likely to crop up is a city where great luxury co-exists working, determined and positive.” Aagain and again. This North African with considerable poverty, and where Life for the locals is based around country is experiencing a major image the future collides with the past. The religion. There are a number of beautiful change – and nowhere is this more heart of Marrakech is the medina – an mosques scattered across the medina, apparent than in the city of Marrakech. almost Biblical walled city composed none more impressive than the towering Little wonder, then, that our house- of a labyrinth of narrow streets shared Koutoubia. Followers of Islam must hunter, Ruth Pepper, heard about by taxis, bicycles, motorbikes, horses, pray five times a day towards Mecca Marrakech through the grapevine. mules, plus thousands of pedestrians and this call to prayer can be heard “I’ve heard the market here is really wandering through the souks (markets). each morning at 5.30am with the chant opening up. Friends have told me it’s The focus of the city is the Place Djemaa of “Allah Akhbar” (“God is great”). a city that’s primed for investment.” el-Fna – said to be the busiest square “This is the first time I have spent Morocco is ranked as the fifth largest in Africa – where each day drummers, any time in a Muslim country and I’m economic power in Africa – after South snake-charmers and market traders very impressed with how it functions,” Africa, Algeria, Egypt and Nigeria. The whip up a frenzy of Arabic activity. says Ruth. “It is totally different to current monarch, King Mohammed VI, “Marrakech is an assault on the Ë what we know, but there’s a strong Ë THE BRIEF: Ruth Pepper is looking to invest in Morocco and is interested in a three or four-bed property in the bustling city of Marrakech... 34 A PLACE IN THE SUN MAY 2007 MAY 2007 A PLACE IN THE SUN 35 Morocco Guide ESSENTIAL GUIDE: the basic facts, figures and highlights ofM arrakech Ó THE PLACE French and Spanish Rabat may be Morocco’s controlled large parts of Q A N capital, but Marrakech is its Morocco, but in March 1956 C E O heartbeat. The city makes C they signed an agreement T I N a great base for further granting the country full A RABAT FEZ L T exploration, as it’s located independence. A CASABLANCA near the Atlas Mountains, Q the Sahara Desert and the Ó WHERE TO GO Atlantic Ocean. SAFI R O C The medina (old city) The Koutoubia Mosque M O C O merges Arabic, West African dominates the Red City’s MARRAKECH and French influences and skyline and the mayhem Marrakech is an assault on Q A L G of Place Djemaa el-Fna is E R there are so many food I A the senses. The place is just stalls and restaurants that at its core. Other places of AGADIR ‘‘ interest include the Bahia so full of life and colour the city feels like one giant barbecue. The smell of Palace, the Majorelle Garden burning food permeates the and Marrakech Museum. Most hotels offer excursions ’’ streets and you’re never far M A U R I T from a cafe that serves mint to the Atlas Mountains and A N the seaside town of Essaouira I A Ë tea, tajine and cous cous. Above: Ruth enjoys moral standard running through it.” In the past ten years, she’s teamed bed property to use for holiday lets. (where rock star Jimi Hendrix a small glass of red The locals are very helpful and, up with friends and renovated a few She might also want to spend a few used to hang out). Ó HISTORY wine against the despite what you may have heard, the properties in Scotland, then sold them weeks a year at the property with backdrop of Place Centuries before Marrakech Q GETTING THERE Jemaa el Fna medina is a safe place for women. As on. She now lives in a Victorian terrace friends and family. She is flexible on existed, this part of North Æ CLIMATE Marrakech is served by one local market trader told us: “This in Portobello, on Scotland’s east coast, location, but is looking for an easy Africa was home to a number Marrakech has long hot Ménara International Airport Above right: snake- is not Iraq”. But there are problems. but is itching to invest overseas. investment that could house large of tribes known as ‘Berbers’ summers with temperatures and is part of the EU ‘Open charmers go about Morocco’s infrastructure still needs Ruth spent six years living in Athens, groups of people. (meaning ‘those who were in July and August reaching Skies’ regime thus opening their business in the square time to develop and some tourists will and feels this broadened her horizons Marrakech is becoming expensive, not Arabs’). Founded in over 40°C (104°F). The best the floodgates for no-frills get a culture shock. “People work very and made her “aware of what it’s like but Ruth’s budget of around £200,000 1062, ‘Marrakech’ – derived time to visit is in spring or carriers. Passengers can hard to make a little bit of money. It’s to live in another culture, away from should be enough to show her a good from Berber words meaning autumn, but evenings can be choose between RyanAir, sad when you see those that aren’t able the comfort-zone of the UK.” She says selection of properties. ‘land of God’ – was the cold, so you’ll need to pack Thomson Fly, easyJet and to work barely getting by,” says Ruth. she wouldn’t buy in the Greek capital “It’s easy to get bamboozled by the capital of an enormous warm clothes. The wettest Atlas Blue. Morocco can also Back in the UK, she is a marketing because it’s too polluted – instead, she constant movement in this city, the empire that spread from part of the year is November be accessed by ferry from Spain to Sudan in the 11th to January, when strong rains Spain. Work on a 39-km and promotions manager who also is turning her attention to Eastern hustle and bustle,” says Ruth. “So I’m and 12th centuries. cause bad driving conditions tunnel between Spain and dabbles in property. She is particularly Europe and North Africa. going to keep an open mind and give it In the 19th century, the in the Atlas Mountains. Tangier is due to start shortly. interested in interior design and loves This is Ruth’s first trip to Morocco time.” Read on to find out what hidden the Moroccan style of furniture. and she is looking for a three or four- gems we found for her in Marrakech… ProPerty 1 ProPerty 2 ProPerty 3 ProPerty 4 ProPerty 5 MARRAKECH IS A FAVOURITE‘‘ SPOT FOR CELEBS. RICHARD BRANSON AND YVES SAINT LAURENT OWN PROPERTIES IN THE CITY, AND THE BECKHAMS Stylish designer house riad Anochka Palatial villa riad ruth? riad Isabelle HAVE SPENT From €280,000 (£188,800) €260,000 (£175,345) WEEKENDS €260,000 (£175,345) €320,000 (£215,640) €320,000 (£215,640) THERE ” ... We found five different properties for Ruth to look at... ... turn the page to see how she got on Ë 36 A PLACE IN THE SUN MAY 2007 Morocco I Love... “This property is decked out with beautiful furniture and Ó PROPERTY VIEWING TRIP the decor is out of this world. I really like the setting in the Palmaie – it makes a big contrast to being in the chaos of the medina. The Palmery is very quiet and relaxing, but it’s also close enough to the city centre. The entire design and layout of the property is well- thought-out. I love the central courtyard and the siesta room. It is a very good price for what you get and it would fit in with my plans nicely, as I think it could be easily rented out.” I HAte... “My only concern would be that, although it has the feel of a traditional riad, it is set on a new-build resort. But I think all the resort facilities would appeal to the British market.” I rAte 7/10 This show-house provides DEVELOPERS a foretaste of Dar Lamia’s CAN‘‘ OFTEN OFFER elegance and comfort. teatime in the pleasure dome FURNITURE Tiddles certainly likes it... Our first property is set in the elegant a pool in the central courtyard. PACKAGES, HELP ProPerty 1 WITH OPENING A surroundings of La Palmeraie (palm The exterior walls are in keeping BANK ACCOUNT Stylish designer house grove), on the outskirts of Marrakech. with the vivid colour of Marrakech We wanted to start our viewing trip itself – it’s often called ‘The Red City’. AND FIND AN From €280,000 (£188,800) with something special and show Ruth The walls are covered in shining INDEPENDENT Where: Near La Palmeraie a new property in one of Marrakech’s tadelakt, a smooth plaster that is TRANSLATOR FOR finest developments – Dar Lamia.