Ó property Marrakech viewing trip in the 1960s, bohemians journeyed to marrakech to experience north africa at its most mysterious. nowadays, it’s a magnet for adventurous property investors. we took ruth pepper to the ‘red city’ to drink mint tea and check out the lie of the land Words dan savery pictures lewis houghton

sk any experts in overseas makes no bones about his number one senses,” says Ruth. “It’s just so full of property for their top five priority – increased tourism. life and colour. Probably the best thing investment hotspots and However, at the moment, Marrakech about it is the people – they’re so hard- Morocco is likely to crop up is a city where great luxury co-exists working, determined and positive.” Aagain and again. This North African with considerable poverty, and where Life for the locals is based around country is experiencing a major image the future collides with the past. The religion. There are a number of beautiful change – and nowhere is this more heart of Marrakech is the medina – an mosques scattered across the medina, apparent than in the city of Marrakech. almost Biblical walled city composed none more impressive than the towering Little wonder, then, that our house- of a labyrinth of narrow streets shared Koutoubia. Followers of Islam must hunter, Ruth Pepper, heard about by taxis, bicycles, motorbikes, horses, pray five times a day towards Mecca Marrakech through the grapevine. mules, plus thousands of pedestrians and this call to prayer can be heard “I’ve heard the market here is really wandering through the souks (markets). each morning at 5.30am with the chant opening up. Friends have told me it’s The focus of the city is the Place Djemaa of “Allah Akhbar” (“God is great”). a city that’s primed for investment.” el-Fna – said to be the busiest square “This is the first time I have spent Morocco is ranked as the fifth largest in Africa – where each day drummers, any time in a Muslim country and I’m economic power in Africa – after South snake-charmers and market traders very impressed with how it functions,” Africa, Algeria, Egypt and Nigeria. The whip up a frenzy of Arabic activity. says Ruth. “It is totally different to current monarch, King Mohammed VI, “Marrakech is an assault on the Ë what we know, but there’s a strong Ë

THE BRIEF: Ruth Pepper is looking to invest in Morocco and is interested in a three or four-bed property in the bustling city of Marrakech...

34 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 35 Morocco Guide

Essential guide: the basic facts, figures and highlights ofM arrakech

Ó THE PLACE French and Spanish Rabat may be Morocco’s controlled large parts of Q a n capital, but Marrakech is its Morocco, but in March 1956 c e o heartbeat. The city makes c they signed an agreement t i n a great base for further granting the country full a rabat fEZ l t exploration, as it’s located independence. a Casablanca near the Atlas Mountains, Q the Sahara Desert and the Ó WHERE TO GO Atlantic Ocean. Safi r o c The medina (old city) The Koutoubia Mosque m o c o merges Arabic, West African dominates the Red City’s Marrakech and French influences and skyline and the mayhem Marrakech is an assault on Q A L G of Place Djemaa el-Fna is E R there are so many food I A the senses. The place is just stalls and restaurants that at its core. Other places of Agadir ‘‘ interest include the Bahia so full of life and colour the city feels like one giant barbecue. The smell of Palace, the burning food permeates the and Marrakech . Most hotels offer excursions ’’ streets and you’re never far M a u r i t from a cafe that serves mint to the Atlas Mountains and a n

the seaside town of Essaouira i a Ë tea, tajine and cous cous. Above: Ruth enjoys moral standard running through it.” In the past ten years, she’s teamed bed property to use for holiday lets. (where rock star Jimi Hendrix a small glass of red The locals are very helpful and, up with friends and renovated a few She might also want to spend a few used to hang out). Ó HISTORY wine against the despite what you may have heard, the properties in Scotland, then sold them weeks a year at the property with backdrop of Place Centuries before Marrakech Q Getting there Jemaa el Fna medina is a safe place for women. As on. She now lives in a Victorian terrace friends and family. She is flexible on existed, this part of North Æ CLIMATE Marrakech is served by one local market trader told us: “This in Portobello, on Scotland’s east coast, location, but is looking for an easy Africa was home to a number Marrakech has long hot Ménara International Airport Above right: snake- is not Iraq”. But there are problems. but is itching to invest overseas. investment that could house large of tribes known as ‘’ summers with temperatures and is part of the EU ‘Open charmers go about Morocco’s infrastructure still needs Ruth spent six years living in Athens, groups of people. (meaning ‘those who were in July and August reaching Skies’ regime thus opening their business in the square time to develop and some tourists will and feels this broadened her horizons Marrakech is becoming expensive, not Arabs’). Founded in over 40°C (104°F). The best the floodgates for no-frills get a culture shock. “People work very and made her “aware of what it’s like but Ruth’s budget of around £200,000 1062, ‘Marrakech’ – derived time to visit is in spring or carriers. Passengers can hard to make a little bit of money. It’s to live in another culture, away from should be enough to show her a good from Berber words meaning autumn, but evenings can be choose between RyanAir, sad when you see those that aren’t able the comfort-zone of the UK.” She says selection of properties. ‘land of God’ – was the cold, so you’ll need to pack Thomson Fly, easyJet and to work barely getting by,” says Ruth. she wouldn’t buy in the Greek capital “It’s easy to get bamboozled by the capital of an enormous warm clothes. The wettest Atlas Blue. Morocco can also Back in the UK, she is a marketing because it’s too polluted – instead, she constant movement in this city, the empire that spread from part of the year is November be accessed by ferry from Spain to Sudan in the 11th to January, when strong rains Spain. Work on a 39-km and promotions manager who also is turning her attention to Eastern hustle and bustle,” says Ruth. “So I’m and 12th centuries. cause bad driving conditions tunnel between Spain and dabbles in property. She is particularly Europe and North Africa. going to keep an open mind and give it In the 19th century, the in the Atlas Mountains. Tangier is due to start shortly. interested in interior design and loves This is Ruth’s first trip to Morocco time.” Read on to find out what hidden the Moroccan style of furniture. and she is looking for a three or four- gems we found for her in Marrakech…

Property 1 Property 2 Property 3 Property 4 Property 5 Marrakech is a favourite‘‘ spot for celebs. Richard Branson and Yves Saint Laurent own properties in the city, and the Beckhams Stylish designer house Anochka Palatial villa Riad Ruth? Riad Isabelle have spent From €280,000 (£188,800) €260,000 (£175,345) weekends €260,000 (£175,345) €320,000 (£215,640) €320,000 (£215,640) there ”

... We found five different properties for Ruth to look at...... turn the page to see how she got on Ë

36 A Place in the sun May 2007 Morocco I Love... “This property is decked out with beautiful furniture and Ó property viewing trip the decor is out of this world. I really like the setting in the Palmaie – it makes a big contrast to being in the chaos of the medina. The Palmery is very quiet and relaxing, but it’s also close enough to the city centre. The entire design and layout of the property is well- thought-out. I love the central courtyard and the siesta room. It is a very good price for what you get and it would fit in with my plans nicely, as I think it could be easily rented out.” I HATE... “My only concern would be that, although it has the feel of a traditional riad, it is set on a new-build resort. But I think all the resort facilities would appeal to the British market.”

I RAte 7/10

This show-house provides developers a foretaste of Dar Lamia’s can‘‘ often offer elegance and comfort. Teatime in the pleasure dome furniture Tiddles certainly likes it... Our first property is set in the elegant a pool in the central courtyard. packages, help Property 1 with opening a surroundings of La Palmeraie (palm The exterior walls are in keeping bank account Stylish designer house grove), on the outskirts of Marrakech. with the vivid colour of Marrakech We wanted to start our viewing trip itself – it’s often called ‘The Red City’. and find an From €280,000 (£188,800) with something special and show Ruth The walls are covered in shining independent Where: Near La Palmeraie a new property in one of Marrakech’s tadelakt, a smooth plaster that is translator for finest developments – Dar Lamia. polished by a river stone, while the the signature Property details: However, the site is still under tiling on the walls and floors is called of the deed Ë three bedrooms construction – completion is expected zellige. These tiles are made in Fez ” Ë three bathrooms in July 2008 – so this house is a show- and cut by hand. Ë fully-fitted kitchen home set in an older resort built by the However, these properties are all Ë Moroccan lounge Ë dining area same developer. It’s owned by the about the interior design. All around Ë galleries resort’s French architect, Patrick the house, there are fantastic spaces to Ë central courtyard with plunge pool Abes, and its style will be replicated at unwind. These include the galleries – Ë balcony with views of the Atlas Dar Lamia. This part of Marrakech is a three-metre-wide corridor next to the Mountains incredibly peaceful compared to the pool, a salon (Moroccan lounge) and Ë communal swimming pool madness of the medina. even a little corner especially designed surrounded by 250 palm trees Celine Serna from South Invest tells for a siesta! Moroccan families tend Ë air-conditioning with heating us that 46 houses are being built at to eat their dinner on small separate Dar Lamia; prices range from €280,000 tables, which we use here to enjoy For more details: to €520,000 (£192,000-£356,365) for cups of refreshing mint tea. Contact South Invest: 020 7691 four-bedroom properties. The resort’s Special mention has to be given to the 2195; www.south-invest.co.uk. theme is ‘fire and water’, with each master bedroom, which has a domed home having a grand fireplace and roof and a beautiful en-suite bathroom.

38 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 39 Morocco

Ó property viewing trip I Love... “I like the fact that you could put your own mark on this riad. It could be lovely with a bit of TLC. At the moment, it works well as a guesthouse, and there are people here who could manage the rentals. I think it could be fantastic: it’s very near the souk and right in the middle of the old city.” I HATE... “My concern would be getting people to and from the riad. You would always need to have somebody here that could collect visitors from the airport and babysit anyone coming on holiday. It’s another cost that would have to be factored in.”

I RAte 7/10 Property 2 Riad Anochka €260,000 (£175,345) Where: In the heart of the medina If Ruth likes The kitchen is simple ‘‘ Property details: but sophisticated, this property A touch of French class Ë four bedrooms like the rest of the she will need Ë rooms in this riad Hidden in the labyrinth of narrow thought Anochka originally dates from three bathrooms to make a Ë Moroccan lounge backstreets that wind their way the early 19th century. verbal offer. Ë dining room but, unlike in through the medina, this property Today, the riad has a French owner, Ë courtyard with pool gives us a taste of the old Morocco. who lets it out to guests. The decor Ë shaded patio the souks, A riad is a traditional Moroccan has a colonial feel – not surprising Ë kitchen Buyers will property set around an interior garden when you think that, 100 years ago, Ë sun terrace with outdoor furniture be lucky to or courtyard. Many are now used as the French controlled large parts of get any sort hotels and provide a peaceful interlude the country, and their influence is still For more details: of reduction from the hustle and bustle on the street. very much a part of this city. Contact Residence Maroc: 01491 on the official From outside, most look like an This property comprises four 835222; www.residence-maroc.co.uk. asking price ordinary door in an alleyway, but when bedrooms and three bathrooms, so ” you step inside you enter an oasis of Ruth could use it as a small guesthouse. peace and tranquillity. Our agent, Christine Hilton, tells us The riad’s inward-looking aspect that the high tourist season is March means that much of the property is to July, as August is too hot. covered in shade and remains cool. It The interior decor is simple but also means that your home is private, sophisticated. Much of the furniture is but as soon as you step outside your made from carved cedarwood. Here in door you are open to your neighbour. Marrakech, the talented craftsmen and Most riads are given female names. women who make these furnishings and This one is called ‘Riad Anochka’ and rugs are nicknamed ‘Berber Picassos’, was renovated two years ago. It is with no two styles being the same. difficult to obtain detailed records of The crowning glory is the rooftop old riads in Marrakech, but it is terrace, with covered and open areas.

40 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 41 Morocco The cost of living‘‘ and the cost of labour in Morocco is Ó property much cheaper viewing trip than in Europe. it’s around 30 per cent cheaper for food and alcohol than in the UK ”

Hand-crafted tiles from Fez adorn the water fountain in the back yard

I Love... “I like the access to this villa. Property 3 It’s near the medina, but in Palatial villa a nice quiet area. It’s a huge house and they say you can €260,000 (£175,345) get €2,000 for monthly rentals Where: Luxor in the city suburbs here, which is great. I like the Property details: Moroccan style and every Ë huge semi-detached villa single room has wonderful Ë six-seven bedrooms craftsmanship of some kind.” Ë four bathrooms A villa fit for a king Ë basement kitchen I Hate... Ë bibliotheque (library) This is one of the most extraordinary hand-cut tiles from Fez. Interestingly, “It’s probably too large to be Ë large ground-floor living space properties A Place in the Sun has ever our agent says that green tiles signify used as a holiday let, as it Ë small rear patio garden visited. Set on three floors, it’s a seven- wealth in Morocco. You would have wouldn’t be suitable for small Ë roof terrace with pool and fountain bedroom house that is so spectacular thought that such intricate craftwork families. The sensible option Ë (Moroccan sauna) it could be a mini-palace. And what’s dates back centuries, but in fact this would be to rent it out to a big Ë views of the Atlas Mountains Ë air-conditioning with heating even more amazing is that it costs villa was completed in 2007. Moroccan family, but I don’t under £180,000. It is unfurnished, but it does have know enough about renting to For more details: We picked this villa to show Ruth kitchen cupboards and some of the the local market – I’d need Contact Residence Maroc: 01491 something completely different to a bedrooms have built-in wardrobes. more information on that. 835222; www.residence-maroc.co.uk riad. This property is 15 minutes from Unusually, the air-conditioning comes Unfortunately, this doesn’t the medina, in an opulent suburban through disguised gaps between the really fit in with my plans.” area called Luxor, (after Egypt’s Valley ceiling tiles. There is also a fireplace, of the Kings). Luxor is home to lots of as it can get cold in this city. We’re told wealthy academics from Morocco and that it’s always 5°C (41°F) cooler here Europe. This neighbourhood is dotted than in the medina. The entire house I with grand villas and tall palm trees. is heated by a solar panel on the roof. RAte The colourful ornate work that The terrace has unobstructed views decorates this impressive property can of the magnificent snow-capped Atlas be seen from outside. The first-floor Mountains, just an hour away by car. It 6/ balcony is supported by two tall pillars also has a hammam – a sauna, heated 10 and features the intricate ceramic underneath by firewood, which is said work called ‘platre traditionel’. to be extremely good for the skin. Inside, the distinctly Arabic flavour This villa has a huge amount of living is enhanced by the use of tadelakt and space. But what does Ruth think of it?

42 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 43 Morocco

I Love... “This is in a good area and is Ó property more accessible than the other viewing trip riads we’ve seen. You could almost get a car up to the front door. I think it’s perfect for holiday lets – it’s close to the palace and there certainly seems to be lots of tourists staying round here. I think it would be fun to kit it out with furniture, plants and so on.”

I Hate... “The rooms are quite small and narrow, and I think it’s a bit expensive for just the three bedrooms. Although I suppose the price is higher because it’s been renovated so beautifully.”

I RAte 8/10

Property 4 Riad Ruth? €320,000 (£215,640) Where: Dar Bacha, in the medina

Property details: Ë unfurnished riad opening a Ë renovated in 2006/2007 convertible‘‘ The riad with no name Ë three bedrooms bank account Ë five bathrooms Property four is located in a part of the otherwise plain white and pink walls. Ë kitchen will allow city called Dar Bacha. This is a quieter The property dates from the 19th Ë central courtyard with pool you to freely section of the medina, away from the century and feels like a piece of Ë Moroccan lounge deposit and chaos of the souks and very near the Moroccan history. If it was in the UK it Ë dining room repatriate Royal Palace. A number of riads in this would probably be used as a museum or Ë roof terrace any foreign area are being used as guesthouses, so gallery, but here it’s just another riad. currency, plus it’s a popular place for tourists. The central courtyard is based For more details: profits from The property is a one-minute walk around a small but deep plunge pool. Contact Francophiles: 01622 688165; www.francophiles.co.uk. the property from a tourist drop-off point and taxi The wall behind is decorated with an ” rank, so it is easily accessible. The olive tree motif and a regal fountain. agent tells us that this riad was sold There is a tiny box room underneath to a French buyer 18 months ago, who where you can turn the pool into a renovated the property and now wants Jacuzzi and switch the fountain on. to sell it on. This is clearly a good way There are three narrow rooms that of making a profit here. can be used as a lounge, three en-suite Unusually, this riad has no name, bedrooms and two extra shower rooms. so if she wanted to buy it, it could be One of these is on the roof terrace, so called ‘Riad Ruth’! As soon as we step you can cool down after an afternoon’s The characteristically through the door, we can see that it’s sunbathing. From the terrace, you can Moroccan tadelakt been beautifully restored throughout. look down through the whole riad or finish lends the walls Cedarwood, tadelakt and mosaic tiles gaze across the rooftops of the ‘Red a terracotta-like hue from Fez add touches of colour to the City’ at the hustle and bustle below.

44 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 45 Morocco

Ó property viewing trip

renovation ‘‘projects may come without title deeds, so a notaire has to track down each family member to get their consent to the sale ”

Ruth weighs up the pros and cons in the I LOVE… bhou, an open living Under the orange tree “This is lovely. I really like the area off the courtyard jardin (garden) and the central This is our last property in Marrakech, a glorious four-poster double bed. The patio with the water feature. but we wanted to end on a high note – roof terrace offers views across the This one comes with all the and ‘Riad Isabelle’ doesn’t disappoint. Palace and the nearby mosque, where fixtures and furnishings, which It’s a fantastic fully-furnished riad that you can hear the haunting call to makes life easier. I love the was renovated three years ago. prayer five times a day. split-level terrace with the Property 5 This property is once again located The great thing about riads is that menzeh (covered area) – it in Dar Bacha. We pass from a humble even if it rains you can still enjoy your would be a great place to Riad Isabelle alleyway through a low medieval front courtyard or jardin – all you have to entertain guests. Another plus- €320,000 (£215,640) door... and enter into another world do is pull across the tarpaulin cover. point is that the riad could be Where: Dar Bacha, the medina of sublime peace and quiet. Another selling point of this property managed by a Moroccan agent Each riad is different, and Isabelle’s is the menzeh, which is a covered working on my behalf.” Property details: courtyard has a cool, blue feel. Four corner of the roof terrace, that could Ë three bedrooms (all en-suite) orange trees provide the shade in the be used as another lounge/dining area. i HATE… Ë fountain jardin (interior garden). Some of the The detailed carvings and woodwork Ë “Nothing. It’s slightly above open sitting room (bhou) carvings on the walls are Arabic verses add to the authentic Moroccan Ë living room my budget, but then it doesn’t from the Koran. Ruth feels at home here, atmosphere of the place and would Ë dining room with fireplace need any work or furnishings.” Ë fitted kitchen as her favourite colour is turquoise. definitely appeal to guests. Ë cloakroom The ground floor consists of abhou Our agent tells us that the rental Ë large roof terrace with views of the (open living area), another living room income would be around €1,200 mosque and Atlas Mountains with Moroccan cushions scattered (£820) per week here. The cost of I around and a large TV, dining room a full-time maid would be just €200 RAte For more details: and a kitchen with an oven, fridge- (£140) a month. This sounds like a Francophiles: 01622 688165; freezer and washing machine. very low wage by British standards, www.francophiles.co.uk. The first floor comprises three but in this part of the world it is 9/10 spacious en-suite bedrooms, one with regarded as a reasonable income.

46 A Place in the sun May 2007 May 2007 A Place in the sun 47 Morocco

Ó property viewing trip

What’s the employ a manager here. Logistically, next step? you would need to have someone on We Need You! site to look after the guests. Are you looking for some expert assistance in “The final property fitted in best with “However, it has been a helpful trip finding your place in the sun? If you are interested, my plans – I loved the romantic style of in showing me what is available and e-mail us at [email protected] with that riad, it was much more accessible what can be done. For instance, you details of where you are looking, your budget and than the others I had seen and had could buy a riad, do it up and then re- been very well renovated. But I need sell it at a profit or you could buy one the type of property you are looking for, as well as to think harder about the financial that’s been already renovated and use your phone number and a recent photo. Successful situation, as it was over my budget. it as a rental property. This trip has applicants will be contacted as soon as possible. “I now realise that you need to given me a lot of food for thought.”

buying tips Investing in Morocco Average property prices THE MARKET purchaser pays a ten per cent to pay annual local taxes and House: £130,000 Morocco was one of the you are obliged to insure your deposit. On occasions, the apartment: £70,000 hottest property markets of notaire will under-declare the house. The maximum rate of 2006 and this looks set to sale price to try and save on Capital Gains Tax is 20 per Riad to renovate: continue in 2007. Foreign fees and taxes payable to the cent. This reduces to ten per £140,000 Direct Investment in Morocco government. The real sales cent after five years and zero has been increasing year on figure is written on the deeds, after ten years. The good news Finished riad: year and rose from $1.07bn which is the only document is that there is no income tax £220,000 (£51,622,000) in 2004 to that stays on record. on the first five years of rental $2.9bn (£1.49bn) in 2005. In Once the notaire is satisfied and no Inheritance Tax. terms of letting your property, about the title and status of demand outstrips supply and the property, they will prepare moroccan options Christine Hilton from Residence the final sales contract(acte If Marrakech becomes too Maroc reckons you can expect de vente) and notify you of a pricey, there are other hotspots 85 per cent occupancy. Last completion date. From start that are offering affordable year many properties rose in to finish, this process usually properties. New golf and value by 30 per cent. takes two to three months. leisure developments are Morocco is springing up along the Atlantic aiming to have BUYING PROCESS EXTRA COSTS and Mediterranean coasts in Property law in Morocco When you buy a property in Agadir, Tangier, Taghazout Bay follows the French example. Morocco you will need to add and Mogadar, near Essaouira. When both purchaser and 5.5 per cent to the purchase Prices vary hugely at these 10m vendor have signed the price for legal fees and resorts, but it is still possible tourists per year compromis de vente registration taxes. Once you to track down a small off-plan (preliminary contract), the own the property, you will have apartment for under £100,000. by 2010

48 A Place in the sun May 2007