Photoepilation and Skin Photorejuvenation
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Dermatology Reports 2017; volume 9:7116 Photoepilation and skin damage to pigmented structures, cells, and photorejuvenation: an update organelles in vivo with suitably brief pulses Correspondence: Mauro Raichi, of selectively absorbed radiation over- E-mail: [email protected] comes the need of precise aiming because 1 2 Alessandro Martella, Mauro Raichi inherent optical and thermal properties pro- Key words: Photoepilation; photorejuvena- 1Former Senior Consultant in vide target selectivity.1 tion; intense pulsed light; dermal remodeling. Dermatology, University of Modena and Proper selection of wavelength in the Sponsor: Novavision Group S.p.A., Misinto recommended visible to near-infrared Reggio Emilia Medical School, Tiggiano (MB), Italy. (LE); 2Clinical Pharmacology and region up to about 1100-1200 nanometers Biophysics Consultant, Milan, Italy (nm), pulse duration, and the energy density Conflict of interest: the authors declare no administered over the exposure time or flu- potential conflict of interest. ence are the three paramount parameters. Compromise among these three parameters Received for publication: 6 March 2017. is crucial to ensure deep dermal penetration, Accepted for publication: 2 May 2017. Abstract maximum thermal damage to the melanin This work is licensed under a Creative The effectiveness of intense pulsed light chromophore, and minimum absorption by oxyhemoglobin and water.2,3 Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 (IPL) and laser devices is widely accepted International License (CC BY-NC 4.0). in aesthetic dermatology for unwanted hair The second landmark date was 1996. In removal and treatment of a variety of cuta- that year the American Food and Drug ©Copyright A. Martella and M. Raichi 2017 neous conditions. Overall, most compara- Administration approved the first ruby-laser Licensee PAGEPress, Italy tive trials have demonstrated similar effec- device for hair removal. It was so feasible Dermatology Reports 2017; 9:7116 tiveness for IPL and laser devices. to overcome at least the most severe risks of doi:10.4081/dr.2017.7116 Literature studies alternatively favor the scarring or hyperpigmentation inherent to IPL and laser concepts, but the incidence of electrolysis, performed since 1875 and the only other technology then available for severe local pain and side effects were nm alexandrite laser, the long-pulsed 800, long-term destruction of follicles.4 Today generally lower with IPL. IPL phototherapy, 810-nm diode laser and the long-pulsed light-based hair removal technologies are already established as a sound option in 1064-nm neodymium:yttrium-aluminium- based either on narrow-waveband lasers or photoepilation and treatment of photoaging, garnet (Nd:YAG) laser allow for the overall high-intensity incoherent and multi-chro- hyperpigmentation and other skin condi- best compromise.6,9 matic pulsed light (intense pulsed light, tions, is also considered first choice in the The Nd:YAG laser, less effective in IPL). Long-term unwanted hair removal has phototherapy of skin vascular malforma- light-skinned subjects, could find a some- become one of the fastest growing, nonsur- tions. When treating large areas, as often what limited but elective niche in dark-skin required in photoepilation and many aes- gical aesthetic procedures in Europe and all 2 individuals (Fitzpatrick skin type IV-VI), thetic dermatology indications, IPL tech- over the world. Specifically as regards 8,10 broad-spectrum IPL epilation based on non- especially with pseudofolliculitis barbae. nologies show advantages over laser-based The Nd:YAG has the least overall hair devices because of their high skin coverage coherent 590-1200 nm light sources - typi- cally xenon flash lamps emitting energy in removal efficiency while the alexandrite rate. Compared to lasers, the wide range of and diode lasers are the best for extensive selectable treatment settings, though a short bursts and operated with cut-off filters use. However, post-laser pigmentation may strong advantage of IPL, may also imply - already in 2014 it had become the seventh be troublesome with alexandrite devices some more risk of local thermal side effects, most popular procedure among plastic sur- whilst the need for high levels of fluence but almost only in the hands of poorly geons and related specialists, according to increase the risk of complications with trained operators. Overall, the strongest the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic 5 diode systems in darker skin types.11 advantages of the IPL technologies are Surgery. IPL systems are possibly more tech- robust technology, versatility, lower pur- nique-dependent to limit the risk of local chase price, and the negligible risk of seri- pain and irritation. However, they offer the ous adverse effects in the hands of skilled and experienced operators. The relative merits and liabilities benefit to be highly versatile due to the wide of intense pulsed light and laser range of emitted wavelengths when hair or skin colors are not ideal for laser photoepi- systems lation.8 The hair removal benefits of IPL How the photoepilation story Any chromophore-based photoepilation technologies are most significant in individ- uals with dark hair and light skin, a com- began technology should be an efficient compro- mise between dermal penetration and tar- mon Caucasian phenotype and the domi- Two landmark dates mark the history of geting of the endogenous melanin in the nant phenotype in East Asia. Hair that is photoepilation and, generally, the applica- hair shaft, the outer sheath of the hair folli- growing after epilation is also thinner and tion of pulsed light sources in dermatology cle infundibulum and the matrix areas lighter in color, and thus often another ideal and aesthetic dermatology. (Figure 1). The hair bulb and the germinal candidate for IPL re-treatment several The introduction of the selective pho- matrix are rich in amelanotic stem cells that months after the first IPL or laser tothermolysis concept in 1984 was the first are most efficiently targeted during the ana- procedure.8 A decade ago, there had been landmark event. It was a crucial step that gen phase of development, when the non- some isolated criticism of IPL, related to the deserved a Science paper and opened the pigmented germinal matrix is closest to pig- need for early IPL devices to be very highly way to major advances in photoepilation mented structures.2,6-8 IPL and laser devices powered to destroy hair.12 Yet, a decade ago technology over the past quarter of a centu- that operate in the red or near-infrared is much time in this rapidly evolving field. ry. In the words of the authors, selective wavelength region like the long-pulsed 755- Some recent intra-patient-controlled split- [Dermatology Reports 2017; 9:7116] [page 9] Article face comparisons seem to indicate that IPL Since those years, many features of could offer some benefits compared with The expanding scope for intense first-generation IPL devices have under- laser devices in terms of hair reduction, pulsed light beyond photoepilation gone technological refinements, with spe- patient satisfaction, and local pain. A 2013 cial reference to the xenon gas-discharge left-to-right split-face assessor-blinded In 1990, a high-intensity flash lamp was flash lamp and the electronic control of the first described as a new tool for treating vas- study compared a IPL (λem=600-950 nm) capacitor banks. Such capacitors store and and a diode laser device for removal of cular lesions; the first IPL medical device discharge the electrical energy that gener- aimed to benign vascular lesions was com- ates the pulsed polychromatic high-intensi- unwanted axillary hair (6 sessions at 4- 15 week intervals in 30 subjects with skin type mercially launched in 1994. ty light. The computer-assisted selection of II-III; hair counts assessed with close-up photographs).13 The 3- and 12-month mean hair reduction was slightly higher with the A diode laser system (59.7% vs 42.4% and 69.2% vs 52.7% from baseline for laser and IPL treatments, respectively), but at signifi- cantly higher pain cost compared with the almost pain-free IPL technology (3.7±2.1 vs 1.6±1.4, respectively; 10-cm visual ana- logue scale).13 Similar results were seen in a double-blind, intra-patient-controlled ran- domized study of axillary hair removal in 21 women after application (6 sessions) of a diode laser on one axilla and IPL on the other one. The number of hair shafts was lastingly and similarly reduced with both hair reduction systems, but local pain was significantly more disturbing with the diode laser.14 Ultra-refining the chromophore targeting process Some advanced IPL systems are being introduced that allow to concentrate almost B all emitted energy in very narrow wave- lengths selected within the ample waveband of IPL xenon flash lamps. For instance, an advanced Italian IPL-derived technology [IFL™ (Incoherent Fast Light), Novavision Group S.p.A., 20826 Misinto (MB), Italy], when used in photoepilation mode at up to 3.3 light pulses per second, allows an extremely high selection of the wide xenon lamp waveband by focusing the energy emission on 700, 810 and 890 nm wave- lengths. Ultraviolet emissions are prelimi- nary filtered away by default by the ultra- transparent cerium-supplemented borosili- cate glass of the IFL™ light emitter acting together with a permanently installed 420- Figure 1. A) Relationship between intense pulsed light (IPL) and laser wavelength and nm cut-off filter. The local safety allowed depth of penetration into the epidermis and dermis. At wavelengths within the low by wavelength selection is further improved absorption index of water (400 to 1000 nm, visible and near-infrared spectrum), dispersal by avoiding all contacts of the device with within the dermis decreases with increasing wavelengths whilst penetration deepens and the skin. At the same time, the technological photothermolytic effects become stronger. The IPL wavelength window is about 590 to improvements of the system allow to 1,200 nm.