Inside Prishtina: History of the OSCE building

October 30 - November 12, 2009 Issue No. 26 www.prishtinainsight.com Free copy ’s New Image OPINION to Attract Prishtina Investment and Candidates in Recognitions Election Debate

Spain and The Hague to be targeted as part of 6million euro campaign > page 6 An international campaign to transform Kosovo’s image ARTE was launched on Monday with Jazzing up the slogan “Kosovo – The Prishtina Young Europeans”. > page 9 Turn to page 5 for the full story GUIDE Coastal : Archaeological Oasis to Ease Travel for Foreigners of the eastern Coming From Kosovo Adriatic Interior minister will lift restrictions on foreign nationals crossing from Kosovo into Serbia - but no change in sight for > page 8 Kosovo holders. one can cross over without a prob- porarily administered by the UN Kosovo-Serbia border for hours FOOD & DRINK By Lawrence Marzouk lem,” the Interior Minister said. under UN Resolution 1244. As such, because some members of the con- No Revolution at “There will be stamps annulling all although it does not control voy, trying to return to the UK, had erbia is to lift restrictions on Kosovo visas or stamps from the so- Kosovo’s land and air borders, it flown into . foreign passport-holders trav- Prishtina’s Favourite called Republic of Kosovo.” considers those entering the coun- From January 1, Serbia expects to Selling from Kosovo to Serbia, Chinese Dacic, who comes from Prizren, try through these ports ‘illegally join the ’s so-called the Serbian Interior Minister has refused to provide a date for the lift- present’ in Serbia. white Schengen list, which will told BIRN Kosovo. ing of the restrictions but said the This has meant that travellers fly- mean Serbian citizens can travel to > page 10 Until now, foreigners living in ministry was discussing how to ing into Pristina, or entering and through most of the EU without Kosovo have been barred from entering Serbia if they do not pos- avoid foreigners “paying unneces- Kosovo by land from Macedonia, a visa. The EU has not extended the NEIGHBOURHOOD sess a valid Serbian entry stamp. sary costs”. or Montenegro, have had to right to residents of Kosovo, These can only be obtained at “offi- In the same interview, the exit Kosovo through one of these whether or not they are Serbs. Concerns Grow as cial” international border points, Interior Minister ruled out extend- countries before crossing into Dacic said this had not been “a not on crossings between Serbia and ing the same privilege to travellers Serbia. good decision but is a unilateral Bosnians Reject Kosovo or between Kosovo and the holding Kosovo . “All those Foreign nationals with Kosovo decision by the EC [European Reform Package other neighbouring countries. who want to go to Serbia have stamps in their passport have also Commission], which means that Ivica Dacic told BIRN’s Life in Serbian documents,” he said. been turned back at Serbian border people in Kosovo in a way are not > page 12 Kosovo TV show that the situation “Dozens of are seeking crossings, according to the British included in the visa liberalisation was about to change. Serbian passports,” he added. foreign office. A recent case saw and will [still] need Schengen “We will solve these practical Serbia considers Kosovo an inte- more than a dozen lorries carrying visas”. FEATURE problems, which will mean every- gral part of its territory, albeit tem- aid from Britain blocked on the continues on page 3 Political News Business Developments Spark The Serbian or Kosovar Political Interference Kosovo Identity Passport Conundrum ‘Damaging’ Kosovo Public Firms Debate Only two months remain before the cit- Political interference in the running of > page 7 izens of Serbia will be using their new major public companies in Kosovo is biometric passports to travel without resulting in overstaffing and inefficien- visas across the EU. But the fate of Serbs cy, economic experts have told Prishtina and Albanians living in Kosovo remains Insight. unclear. Kosovars see key public enterprises, Kosovo Albanians are ... such as Post and ... page 3 page 5

is supported by: 2 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 marketing news • October 30 - November 12, 2009 3 The Passport Conundrum Editor’s word As Serbia prepares to join the EU’s visa-free travel scheme, Kosovo Kufiri Serbs and Albanians are being given conflicting messages over which passports to apply for. By Lawrence Marzouk

orders points in the , or By Besiana Xharra Kufiri in Albanian, are a nightmare, Bbut the Kosovo-Serbia crossings are bordering on madness. My last trip to Belgrade, via Macedonia to nly two months remain before the citi- collect the correct stamps, is a case in point. zens of Serbia will be using their new An hour-long wait on the Kosovo- Obiometric passports to travel without Macedonia border was a small irritation; visas across the EU. But the fate of Serbs and my extra special treatment by the Serbian Albanians living in Kosovo remains unclear. border guards was something else. Kosovo Albanians are, and have been, Maybe it was a mistake to explain I had applying for Serbian passports and Kosovo Photo byPhoto FoNet come from Kosovo, maybe I should have Serbs have been opting for documents from More than 1,500 Kosovo Albanians have secured Serbian biometric passports cleaned my car, or removed the map with the Republic of Kosovo. Both are gambling on they are citizens of Serbia. The reason for the Trajkovic, a senior official of the Serb ‘Kosova’ emblazoned across the top, or what will serve them best, as Belgrade, closure of offices in Kosovo is for security rea- National Council in Gracanica. She said: “I maybe it was my Arabic surname, which I Prishtina and Brussels provide different, and sons, as the checks in Belgrade will be know that this is bad news for Serbs living in happen to share with a high-ranking Hamas sometimes conflicting, messages. stricter,” said Ivanovic. Kosovo, but in question are 6 million Serbian official. Lima, not his real name, is an Albanian res- “Until now, Serbian passports for citizens of residents who are to benefit, therefore I wel- Whatever the reason, the border guards ident of Kosovo. He has taken advantage of Kosovo had the area where it was issued writ- come this decision,” she said. quickly set about taking my Clio to pieces, the option of dual citizenship and has ten on them, such as Pec, Prishtina, Gjakova Hajredin Kuqi, Kosovo’s deputy prime min- inserting various hi-tech cameras into its received a from Serbia. etc. Now, in the biometric passports for ister, says that the European Commission’s every orifice, with a diligence rarely seen in “Before, I had a so it was Kosovo ‘Belgrade for Kosovo and Metohija’ decision indicates that Kosovo’s government low-ranking state employees. easier for me to apply for a Serbian biometric will be written.” is the only authority in the country. He called After what seemed to be the average lifes- passport, which I received a few months ago,” Passports issued with ‘Belgrade for Kosovo on Kosovo citizens not to be fooled into going pan of a border guard had elapsed, the men in said Lima. and Metohija’ will not be valid for visa-free to Belgrade to apply for Serbian passports. uniform finally cracked and demanded: “Just Lima lives in Prishtina and applied for his travel, the European Commission has said. “I call on the citizens of Kosovo, Albanians tell us where the drugs are!” in Kosovo Polje/Fushe But it remains unclear how border guards and the Serbs, to apply for passports of the I politely informed them that I was a jour- Kosove, which is located only three miles from across the 27 countries will administer this Republic of Kosovo as Kosovo will very soon nalist who did not have a habit of transport- the capital. This is where, since the end of the and what will happen to the 1,500 Kosovo be included in visa liberalisation,” said Kuqi. ing large quantities of narcotics across Kosovo conflict, Serbia’s Interior Ministry has Albanians who received biometric passports He added that his government is in frequent international boundaries. issued Serbian passports to Prishtina residents. before the EC’s decision. contact with the European Commission, The jobs-worth then followed my out- “Kosovo’s constitution allows me to have The European Commission told Prishtina which is jointly preparing feasibility reports stretched finger towards a pile of personal two citizenships, so I applied for a Serbian Insight that it would not comment on the issue on the problem of Serbian passports for affects spread across a table and picked out passport because, with their passport, it will until the final meeting on visa-free travel for Kosovars and a way forward for Kosovo my press card. be easier for me to travel, especially now Serbs Serbia on November 30 which may, it said, towards visa liberalisation, which will be pub- Blushing, he blurted out some apologies. will not need visas to travel,” Lima said. include measures to stop Kosovars travelling lished in November. And, as he handed back my passport and car Hoping to take advantage of visa-free trav- freely with Serbian passports. Uncertainty over the future and conflicting papers with a courtesy hitherto unseen, he el, more than 1,500 Albanian citizens of As a result of the EC policy, many Kosovars messages has led the Serbs of Kosovo to begin offered an explanation: “I’m sorry. We Kosovo have secured Serbian biometric pass- have been seeking new addresses across the applying for passports of the Republic of thought you were Al Qaeda.” ports, Ivica Dacic, Minister of Internal border in Serbia to ensure that they are part of Kosovo. On my return to Prishtina a few days Affairs in Serbia, has revealed. Another 8,000 later, a convoy of British lorries which had thousands have applied. the visa-free regime. Ivanovic confirmed that The Minister of Internal Affairs in Kosovo, this was becoming a problem. Zenun Pajaziti, told Prishtina Insight: “Until been transporting humanitarian aid to But in July, the European Commission Kosovo was being given the full treatment at He said: “Many Kosovars are afraid that the now, Kosovo’s Interior Ministry has allocated ordered Serbia to close their three offices in the Merdare-Serbia crossing. Serbian passport will not serve them, there- over 5,000 passports to Kosovo Serb residents. Kosovo as a condition for joining the White Some members of the convoy had flown fore they have begun to demand addresses in Their interest is growing day by day.” Schengen list, which allows for visa-free trav- into Prishtina airport and as such, in the eyes areas of Serbia. But I tell them that they do Fact box: el. The offices in Kosovo Polje, Gracanica and of the Serbian border guards, had entered not need to do such a thing because they are Until recently,three Serbian administrative Mitrovica have now been shut. their country illegally. The motorcade of a our citizens and will be considered the same centers have been located in Kosovo, issuing Oliver Ivanovic, Minister for Kosovo in the dozen or so heavy goods vehicles was told that as others,” said Ivanovic. He added that he did Serbian passports to Kosovars. Serbian Government, recently announced they would have to turn back and enter not know how many Kosovars had travelled to The centers have been in Kosovo Polje, that all Kosovars, regardless of their ethnici- Serbia at an official border point. Belgrade to register but that “the interest is Gracanica and Mitrovica. But not all ty, can apply for Serbian biometric passports, They were, eventually, allowed to pass very great”. Kosovars have been able to get passports in but must do so in Belgrade. after protracted negotiations. But, once The European Commission’s exclusion of these centers, as Serbian administrative cen- “We have closed offices in Kosovo since again, the petty bureaucracy and spite of Kosovars has angered some Serbs. Milan tres for some Kosovo cities are in Serbia. For Serbia is obliged to respect the request of the Serbia’s current border policy towards Ivanovic, chairman of the Serb National example, Gjakova has its in Jagodin and European Commission for not issuing the doc- Kosovo was all too obvious. Council of Northern Kosovo, says that the in Kragujevc. uments in the territory of Kosovo. So, from Belgrade’s Interior Minister Dacic this decision is discriminatory. He said: “This According to data from the Ministry of now on Kosovars can apply in Belgrade,” week told BIRN that his country will soon decision could force Serbs to leave Kosovo. Interior in Serbia, in the ten years following Ivanovic told Pristina Insight. resolve the absurd situation whereby any- “The European Commission cannot require And, in this way, the independence of Kosovo the end of conflict, Serbia equipped at least one entering Kosovo from Macedonia, Serbia not to give passports to Kosovars, since will be strengthened.” 300,000 Kosovo Albanians with Serbian pass- Albania, Montenegro, or by air, cannot con- But the EC’s decision is supported by Rada port. tinue their journey into Serbia. Serbia to Ease Travel for Foreigners Coming From Kosovo While this is great news for those who pos- sess passports not issued by the Republic of Kosovo, most of the 2 million inhabitants of from page 1 Kosovo, in which Serbia has urged members this country will remain in a legal blackhole, of the Serbian minority in Kosovo not to unable to cross the border – which Serbia He said Kosovo’s majority Albanian popu- vote, Dacic said he would not seek to punish doesn’t recognise as such – with Kosovo pass- lation was to blame for Kosovo’s exclusion those who do decide to cast their ballot. ports or number plates. from the European scheme. Kosovo had been “The stance of the Serbian government is Dacic explains that the new approach for shut out “primarily because of the Albanian that we cannot invite Serbs to take part in ‘foreigners’ is pragmatic, whereas the recog- population’s crime links in Western these elections because by this we would nition of Republic of Kosovo documents Europe,” he said. indirectly accept the Kosovo and Metohija would be tantamount to raising the white The minister said that “in a way” the deci- institutions”, he said. However, Dacic said it flag on independence. But I can’t help feel- sion was justified because “the removal of was “up to them [the Kosovo Serbs] to decide ing that if Dacic, and his government, want- visas would open the door for the spread of what their practical interest is”. ed to find a practical, fudged solution, which that crime”. Referring to Kosovo’s unilateral decision would not indicate recognition of Kosovo, Dacic insisted that the European to separate from Serbia, the minister asked they could. Commission’s decision showed it had why, if the same logic was applied consis- Instead they seem intent on pursuing a “accepted the sovereignty of Serbia over the tently,“Serbs in those areas where they are a policy which appears to be motivated more territory of Kosovo and Metohija”. majority should not also have the right to a

Photo byPhoto FoNet by spite than by principle. Turning to the upcoming local elections in unilateral separation from Kosovo?” Ivica Dacic, Serbian Interior Minister 4 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 news Battle for Prishtina Strains Kosovo’s Inside Out Attack Dogs Coalition and “good and bad actions in the municipality” and when Mustafa was pressed on whether the par- Cry Babies ties were still working together, By Petrit Collaku he replied: “I thought we are; now I learn that we haven’t been together.” By Kreshnik Hoxha he fight to become the next Salihu’s campaign has includ- mayor of the capital city, ed harsh attacks on Mustafa’s TPristina, is straining conduct as mayor, including bill- Kosovo’s coalition government, boards depicting Mustafa on a t is abundantly clear that this with both partners launching “wanted” poster with the mes- year’s electoral campaign for attacks on each other. sage that reads “missing”. The IPrishtina has undergone a Some analysts say growing latest such advertisement surreal metamorphosis, moving animosity between the claimed Mustafa “promised, did- byPhoto Marzouk Lawrence away from the naff promises of Democratic Party of Kosovo, n’t do it, failed”. Campaign poster for PDK candidate Astrit Salihu previous years and towards hard- PDK and the Democratic League The poster campaign has core acerbity full of rant and of Kosovo, LDK, which have gov- angered the mayor who ordered the coalition can survive for The Pristina daily Zeri, seen rave. The protagonists, Isa erned in tandem since 2007, the removal of all “defamatory” much longer. “It was not expect- as a supporter of the opposition Mustafa from the LDK and Astrit could end in a split and early posters under the treat of legal ed that the LDK and PDK would Alliance for the Future of Salihu from the PDK seem to be elections. action. The AMM advertising enter the campaign for the local Kosovo, has stoked talk of a determined to prove that they Party officials on both sides company confirmed to Balkan elections on November 15 as split this week with a front-page reject this scenario. Over the Insight that it had already rivals,” noted Halil Matoshi, headline on Wednesday that have what it takes to lead weekend both Kosovo’s removed some 25 billboards as a columnist for the Pristina daily read: “LDK-PDK governing Prishtina. But, the fate of the President, Fatmir Sejdiu, of the result. Koha Ditore. coalition [heading] towards coalition appears to be of little LDK, and Prime Minister But this prompted Salihu to “If they hadn’t decided to division”. concern to Mustafa and Salihu, Hashim Thaci, from the PDK, accuse Mustafa of dictatorial enter the election with a joint But not everyone is convinced who seem desperate to get as insisted the election of a new behaviour. “The use of a public candidate, it was at least expect- that rising tensions will lead to many votes as they can. mayor for Pristina would not position to force the removal of ed that they would sign a pact a split in the coalition. Knowing that he faces a strug- harm their partnership. political advertisements is like not to attack each other”, Kosovo’s Deputy Prime gle to dislodge the incumbent But the two leaders’ soothing the action of a dictator, not the Matoshi told Balkan Insight. Minister, Hajredin Kuci, told mayor Mustafa, Mr Salihu has The columnists described the the same newspaper that the words have not stopped the esca- president of a free Pristina,” he been using a special tool for his coalition as an “unhappy mar- coalition remained stable. lation of rhetoric between offi- said. campaign that was never before riage” that was heading for “Those that are criticizing the cials from the two parties, which Some have lambasted Prime deployed in Kosovo – the personal divorce, which suggested an coalition do not have any deci- has seen senior parliamentary Minister Thaci for touring the attack. The core principles of his early general election was like- sion-making power in the LDK,” figures in the LDK attacking the country and announcing large campaign appear to be a relent- Prime Minister. amounts of investment for the ly in autumn 2010. he said. He predicted that a victory for Mufail Limani, a political less attack on Isa Mustafa’s Rising tension between the regions, including 170 million record. By drilling into the parties was illustrated by the euro for the western city of either Mustafa or Salihu could analyst, agreed. He told Balkan voter’s mind that Mr Mustafa and debate on the election in BIRN’s Prizren and 120 million euro for lead to the coalition splitting. Insight: “I don’t believe that the the LDK are failures that have “Life in Kosovo” show, broad- the divided northern town of Matoshi said he believed the governing coalition is in jeop- brought Prishtina to its knees, he casted on Monday. Mitrovica. coalition might last until gener- ardy.” hopes to convince voters he is the The two parties currently The tour has drawn criticism al elections, expected in 2011, if Limani said the international work together in the city hall from the LDK deputy chairman, a third candidate wins the community had stood behind the sultan of success the city has under the LDK mayor, Isa Lutfi Haziri, who said Thaci was Pristina poll – namely Vegim formation of the coalition, see- been waiting for. This approach Mustafa. But in a heated using budget money for his own , from the coalition ing it as a stabilizing force after has so far proved successful in exchange, the PDK candidate for party’s electioneering purposes. between the Democratic League the November 2007 election, on catching the attention of the elec- the post, Astrit Salihu, said his The political jockeying has of Dardania, LDD, and New the eve of Kosovo’s unilateral torate, which is little used to this party was not responsible for the raised questions about whether Kosovo Alliance, AKR. declaration of independence. type of campaign, but overdoing it runs the risk of boring, tiring and repelling the voters. It is cer- tainly a surprising tactic to use News in brief against a coalition partner. www.prishtinainsight.com An utterly different dynamic, World Cup Champion The EU ‘Regress’ Hague Prosecution Seeks however, is observed in the Isa Publisher: visits Mitrovica Report Former PM’s Retrial Mustafa camp. Mr Mustafa has BIRN decided to try to remove the offending attack-posters by Balkan Investigative Reporting Network ilian Thuram, World Cup he European he Hague Tribunal Prosecution has asked threatening legal action. An winner with France in Commission’s that former Kosovo prime minister Mensa e Studenteve, first floor L1998, visited Mitrovica last Tprogress report on TRamush Haradinaj face a retrial. approach, it seems, which has 10000, Prishtina week to held build bridges Kosovo, released last “The court of first instance did not take prop- worked, as the advertising firm is now in the process of taking Kosovo between communities. month, shows a ‘deterio- er measures to ensure the [initial] trial was fair The event, organised by non- ration’ in the country’s to both sides,” prosecutor Peter Kremer said, down the material. It’s worrying Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 governmental organisation Sport performance, according according to AFP. “Two crucial witnesses were that a man with such a high-pro- Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 Sans Frontières Kosovo, SSF, saw to a high ranking EC offi- unable to give evidence because of intimidation file position has such thin skin. [email protected] Mr Thuram take part in sporting cial. at the trial,” he claimed. The contents of the adverts are activities with 75 children from Khaldoun Sinno, head “The trial was hasty and the most important no worse than you would see in Editor-in-Chief: different parts of Mitrovica. of political, economic element - the need to ensure fairness - was lost,” any democratic state across the Lawrence Marzouk Mr Thuram also had time to and European integra- Kremer concluded. world. Just look at the kind of [email protected] answer questions from SSF’s vol- tion at the European The Prosecution had initially asked the mud that was thrown at Obama unteers, who organise activities Commission Liaison Appeal Chamber for a partial retrial, claiming and imagine the uproar if he had across Kosovo to encourage Office in Kosovo, made that Haradinaj and codefendant Idriz Balaj were attempted to ban the attacks. No, Editorial Team: youngsters to take part in sports. the comments at an event released because witnesses were “threatened he took the low blows and carried Ana Petruseva, Arif Muharremi, organised by the ECLO to and blackmailed”. on. He’s heard of the First discuss the progress Gordana Igric, Jeta Xharra, Marcus Haradinaj, Balaj and Lahi Brahimaj, who are Amendment; it’s not entirely report. all former members of the Kosovo Liberation Tanner, Petrit Collaku and Shega A’Mula clear whether Mr Mustafa has. If He said: “The report for Army, were indicted on charges relating to the he hasn’t, he may want to brush 2009 is more negative murder, kidnap, torture and rape of ethnic Marketing, Sales & Distribution: up on his constitutional knowl- than last year – it is a Serbs, Roma and Albanians between March and edge – both American and [email protected] detoriation.” September 1998. Renzo Daviddi, head of In April 2008, Haradinaj and Balaj were Kosovar – before the visit of Bill Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” the ECLO, added that cleared of all charges, following a three-year Clinton to Prishtina next month. Kosovo’s path towards trial. Brahimaj was sentenced to six years in It’s great to see passion and Printing: Interpress R. Company joining visa liberalisa- prison, having been found guilty of cruel treat- drama in elections, but we could tion would be “long and ment and torture. do without both the attack-dog Copyright © BIRN painful”. If the Prosecution has failed to convince the and the cry-baby tactics. Appeal Chamber, his case will be closed forever. business • October 30 - November 12, 2009 5 Political Interference ‘Damaging’ Kosovo Public Firms Selection of politicians as board directors leads to overstaffing and inefficiency and is reducing those firms’ sale value, experts say.

According to the EC, this has undermined confidence in the abili- By Lavdim Hamidi ty of Kosovo institutions to manage the selection process in a transpar- ent and fair fashion. olitical interference in the Alban Hashani, senior running of major public com- researcher at the economic think- Ppanies in Kosovo is resulting tank Riinvest Institute, told in overstaffing and inefficiency,eco- Prishtina Insight that mixing poli- nomic experts have told Prishtina tics in the selection process was Insight. damaging the effectiveness of man- Kosovars see key public enter- agerial boards. prises, such as Post and Boards were too often “serving Telecommunication of Kosovo, political interests and not the devel- PTK, Prishtina International opment of these enterprises”, he

Airport, PIA, and the Kosovo said. byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Energy Corporation, KEK, as Shpend Ahmeti, director of the The privatisation of PTK is expected to happen next year or by 2011 at the latest dream employers because the public policy think-tank GAP, said Haki Shatri, member of the opposi- “In the last 12 months alone PTK ny needs, he added. salaries are four to five times high- political parties were especially tion Alliance for the Future of has taken on approximately 700 peo- The government has decided to er than posts in central government keen to control the management of Kosovo, AAK, said most appointees ple, which means the company is sell the airport by the end of the and local authority institutions. public companies in charge of the did not meet the criteria set out in overstaffed and is less attractive to year while the privatisation of PTK Experts say the ruling parties are provision of key services. the application process in terms of potential investors,” he said. is expected to happen next year or directing the selection of boards of “In this environment, we will professional experience. “Such behaviour, accompanied by by 2011 at the latest. directors in these companies, lead- always have parties fighting to con- Alban Hashani said political political influence in the selection Board members usually meet ing to party loyalists being pre- trol these companies, not lead them interference in the selection of process, reduces the efficiency of only once or twice a month but are ferred to professionals. in the best way,” Ahmeti said. boards meant the whole recruit- the enterprise and hence its value.” generously rewarded. According to The latest progress report from Opposition party leaders have ment process in these companies Hashani observes the same ten- the government, members of the the European Commission high- also taken the government to task was often questionable. dency to over-employ at the coun- PTK, PIA and KEK boards receive lighted the problem when it criti- over its choices of members of He noted that government inter- try’s main airport. At 700, the total between 700 and 850 euro a month. cised the government for influenc- boards of public firms. A former ference in the running of those number of employees at Prishtina The average wage in the country is ing recruitment to these top jobs. finance and economy minister, companies has led to overstaffing. Airport is greater than the compa- about 200 euro. Kosovo’s New Image to Attract Investment and Recognitions Spain and The Hague to be targeted as part of 6million euro campaign Kosovo - The young Europeans explained by Saatchi and Saatchi By Lawrence Marzouk he slogan is based on the facts that The Republic of TKosovo is one youngest n international campaign to countries in the world, and it is transform Kosovo’s image also home to the youngest popu- Awas launched on Monday lation in Europe with an average with the slogan “Kosovo – The age of 25.9. Young Europeans”. Each of the colours featured in It is hoped the 6million euro cam- the logo was chosen for a specific paign, led by the Israeli-branch of reason. The green represents the Saatchi and Saatchi, will shake off green fields that can be found Kosovo’s ‘war-torn’ reputation and across Kosovo’s expansive coun- attract interest “from politicians to tryside, the red-terracotta repre- businessmen, from tourists to sents the colour of the bricks donors”, according to the interna- that are used for the building tional advertising firm. that is in progress across the The 60 and 30 second advert spots land, and the blue symbolises the were broadcast for the first time on sky and water and is taken from CNN, BBC World News, Euronews, the background from Kosovo’s CNN Turk, Bloomberg, and new flag. The unique design of Eurosport on Monday.

Photo byPhoto and Saatchi Saatchi the letters’ font typography is The initial focus has been on inspired by “the fountain of Europe, with some exposure in the The television ads spots were broadcast for the first time on CNN, BBC World News, Euronews, CNN Turk, Bloomberg, and Eurosport youth” concept – the energy that USA. But Saatchi and Saatchi have ‘Kosovo – The Young Europeans’, intentions. All will sense the future Economist and Newsweek. flows unboundedly throughout revealed that the campaign will Saatchi and Saatchi said: “This is potential of this young nation and Sejdiu said that Kosovo now has Kosovo. To see the logo and later be targeted at Spain, which probably the very first national slo- the positive attitude of its people.” a chance to present itself to Europe watch the video visit has not recognised Kosovo’s inde- gan which turns the spotlight on The video ad was aired for the in a new light. “It will represent http://www.balkaninsight.com/ pendence and The Hague, where the people and the human spirit first time on Monday night at an Kosovo’s energy, ambition, spirit the International Court of Justice rather than the country, its natural event attended by President Fatmir and great desire to walk freely and en/main/news/23164/ will, in December, begin hearing marvels or history. Sejdiu, Prime Minister Hashim unite with other communities of the case on the legality of Kosovo’s “This is a very strong and confi- Thaci and international guests. free countries,” he added. independence and that it is now declaration of independence. dent statement of Kosovo’s attitude The campaign will later move to Thaci stressed that Kosovo’s internationally known, democrat- Speaking of their slogan, as a country and of its future the print media, including The image had changed since declaring ic, peaceful and progressive. 6 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 city Prishtina Candidates Square Aurelie Up in Election Debate Viard Head of mission for Kosovo The fight to become mayor of Prishtina is proving to be a compelling one. Here, we bring you a run-down of each Sport Sans Frontières candidate standing for Kosovo’s top town hall position and their most interesting quotes from Life in Kosovo’s televi- sion debate on Monday. Astrit Salihu was born in 1966 in Prishtina. He has a PHD in Philosophy and is married. He is the candi- date for PDK. He worked as director of the center for humanitarian stud- Prishtina through the Eyes of: the Eyes through Prishtina ies, Gani Bobi, and deputy general director of RTK, professor in the Faculty of Philosophy at the University of Prishtina, and political advisor to the Prime Ministry’s Office of Hashim Thaci. He said: “The document no.21.01.2008/08 date 31.08.2009 found no payment for the year 2008 to the municipal budget by the Park Project compa- ny that deals with parking management. So the companies which manage the municipal areas Candidates for mayor of Prishtina debate on Birn Kosovo’s Life in Kosovo TV for parking pay nothing to the municipality.” Selvete Krasniqi – Ramadan Beqiri was Aurélie Viard Besnik Tahiri was Ismajli was born in 1954 born in 1968 in born in 1975 in Prishtina. in Prishtina. Her educa- Medvegja. He has a mas- What surprised you most He holds a master’s tion was at the Faculty of ter’s degree in manage- about Prishtina? degree in local govern- Arts in the music depart- ment. He is married and ment studies and inter- ment. She is a married a father of two daugh- The messiness of the city and the national development. mother-of-two and is the ters and a son. He is the friendliness of its inhabitants. He is married and father candidate for PSK. Her candidate for the civic of one child. He is the work experience includes initiative KOHA. What’s your favourite hang- candidate for AAK. He is being editor of a music He said: “One thing out? the founder and the exec- programme on RTK. should be made clear here and that is that the utive director of the She said: “Many mistakes have been com- drinking water should not be used for any Traffic bar for beers with friends, Local Government Institute, senior political mitted in Prishtina in the past: cultural her- other purpose. This also means that the future and the restaurant Ex for their advisor to the former Prime Minister itage has been destroyed, streets have disap- mayor among us cannot solve the issue unless great T-Bone steak with Gorgonzola Haradinaj, and member of the AAK peared. When I was a child, I used to have a we are all more aware and cautious about sauce along with a glass of local red Presidency. dream that Old Prishtina was going to be pre- using water. The citizens themselves are also wine. He said: “I have to say,the issue here is that served and a new Prishtina be built somewhere part of local government.” else, as it is done elsewhere in the world.” the PDK-LDK coalition, at the central level, Do you do anything cultural? leading Kosovo, is neither functional at the Rexhep Osmani was Guneyt Ustaibo was country level nor at local level. And what hap- I guess that watching football born in 1950 in Sllatina e born in 1973 in Prishtina. pens here is that there is a tendency to trans- mathces at Prishtina stadium does- Madhe, Prishtina. He He was educated at the fer the faults from Mr Salihu to Mr Mustafa n’t really qualify as cultural… But I has a master’s degree in Faculty of Philology, in and vice-versa, while at the end of the day you will work on that in the coming philology from the Turkish language and are together in all this.” months. University of Prishtina. Literature. He is married He is married and is the Daut Maloku was and a father-of-two. He is candidate for the ADK. What is the most annoying born in 1947 in Marec, the candidate for KDTP. He was the first Minister thing about Prishtina? Prishtina. He has a He has worked as a of Education, Science master’s degree in tourist agency for and Technology in the Government of Kosovo The traffic and the mud on rainy energetics and is a mar- KosovaTours, for the from 2001 to 2004. He was also Minister of days. I still don’t get how people ried, father-of-five. He American Embassy and as general director of Education and the main organiser of the inde- manage to keep their shoes spot- is the candidate for the the agency “Effesius”. pendent education system in Albanian from less. Green Party of Kosovo. He said: “Our motto is: Prishtina – a 1990-1999. He led various projects metropolis. Closer work with citizens means He said: “I am not a localist but this is the If you were mayor of at KEK and has been re-activation of smaller community units in truth. If the head of the government was from Prishtina for the day what would President of the Green suburbs that would facilitate citizens` access Prishtina, and didn’t have to leave it to find you change? Party of Kosovo since its creation. to municipal services.” refreshment elsewhere, he would think differ- He said: “If it [the crisis in Prishtina] con- I would, as most people, build ently about Prishtina and the use of water.” Vegim Gashi was tinues to spread and unless it is urgently parking spaces – a lot of them. And addressed, it threatens to destroy the new born born in 1963 in Prishtina. Sadri Ramabaja was put some new bins out for recycling. state of Kosovo from within. The problems of He is an electric engi- born in 1961 in I’m not sure if anyone would use Prishtina are 99% of a technical nature, they neer, is married and a Lummire, Prishtina. He them, though, but it’s worth a try. are neither poetry nor philosophy.” father of two daughters has a master’s degree in and a son. He is the can- How many macchiatos do you Isa Mustafa was born in law. He is married and is didate for AKR and LDD drink a day? 1951 in the municipality of a father-of-two. He is the for Prishtina. Prishtina and is the cur- candidate for PSD for He works as professor Surprinsingly, none. I usually rent mayor of the city. He Prishtina. He was a sen- of electric engineering drink çaj i gjelbër –green tea - and holds a PhD in economics. ior officer of political at the University of too many espressos xhatë. He is married and is the affairs in the Office of Prishtina. He also founded a private company candidate for LDK. He is the Prime Minister from 2002 to 2005, editor in 1990, employing around 50 people. What’s the tastiest Kosovar food? professor of economics and editor-in-chief at the daily newspaper He said: “The water supply issue could and financial management “Lajm”, lecturer at the University College have been solved by now. If not entirely, at Homemade flia – especially at the University of Gjilani in Gjilan and is currently a lecturer at least part of it. But it seems like we are used to Bajram’s wife’s. But I never have it Prishtina. He was appoint- a branch of the Illyria University. black and white solutions only, either we go for lunch on a working day because ed economic advisor to the President of Kosovo in He said: “Life in the capital should pulse in for a total solution or we remain in position I definitely need a nap after that. 2006. line with life in other European cities. In fact, zero. We never tend to have a kind of medium He said: “I've prepared the programme on we see it slipping towards the Orient. solution to the problem.” What landmark do you use to this and there would be an equal share of “This is why I said that there is a need for a tell taxi drivers where you live? investments for all Pristina suburbs, avoiding new approach to economic policies, invest- To watch the full debate, any discrimination by favouring one suburb ments, employment and after the citizens are Teatri Dodona. Then I use my over the other based on party affiliation and fed with bread and water, then we may deal subtitled in English, visit: really rudimentary Albanian to get so forth.” with parking issues and so on and so forth.” www.jetanekosove.com closer to home. feature • October 30 - November 12, 2009 7 Political Developments Spark Kosovo Identity Debate Following decades of forced separation, Albanians are discussing how different they’ve become. struction worker who hosted Murat’s family, says that, although the two families knew little of each By Arjan Konomi in Tirana, other, in the end they found they Pristina and Skopje were much the same. “In Vlora, we knew very little about Kosovo,” Mehmet says. “But n a hot summer’s day, a we lived with Murat’s family for group of friends is sitting in several months and, although they Oa seaside cafe in southern were not very keen on seafood, we Albania. Erleta, the daughter of a found each other very similar, even dissident in Kosovo, and Tomi, a in culinary terms,” he adds. native of Tirana, have much in Some intellectuals also feel that common. a separate Kosovar identity does However, as is usual in the not really exist. Balkans, they are divided when “The term ‘Kosovar identity’ is discussing the past. Tomi believes artificial. It’s difficult to define the former communist regime in what it really is – even for those Albania was far more oppressive who think it exists,” Prishtina- than Josip Tito’s regime in based sociologist Shkelzen Maliqi . Erleta disagrees. says. “Although there are differ- Poverty and hunger were routine ences in the worldviews of Kosovo in communist Albania, Tomi adds, while people in Kosovo could own Albanians and those across the property, practice their religion border, these differences are not and emigrate to the West, if they enough to make up an identity.” wished. “A Kosovar identity would not be However, Erleta insists that a stable and strong identity, with a oppression cannot be measured in clear meaning,” he adds.

terms of material goods alone. byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit “Try enjoying a table full of food Kosovo’s independence has thrown up questions concerning the Albania identity. Reunion in the EU while somebody is striking you in ideologies, with Albania sticking The Kosovo Albanians were not Towards the Kosovar Nation, the face,” she replies, searching for to a hard-line Stalinist philosophy. the only ones to labour under mis- maintains that Kosovo Albanians The Albanians of Albania and a metaphor to convey the oppres- From 1948 until 1991, the border conceptions concerning their eth- and Albanian Albanians have the Albanians of Kosovo are not sion that Albanians felt they expe- between Yugoslavia and Albania nic kith and kin. Albanians in evolved separate identities. the only people following the rienced in Kosovo. “And don’t refer was almost hermetically sealed. Albania cherished similar illu- “In terms of ethnicity, we have debate over identity. to us as Kosovars,” she adds. “We Even after Yugoslavia collapsed, sions about their cousins across the same identity because we speak In Macedonia, a quarter of the too are Albanians”. during Slobodan Milosevic’s rule the border. the same language and have com- population is also ethnically The two friends’ heated dispute in Serbia, Kosovo Albanians could “We considered them [Kosovo mon traditions,” he says. “But we Albanian. Many of them feel is a reminder of the fact that, while not easily cross the border. As a Albanians] lucky because, econom- have had different histories and excluded from both Albanian all Albanians supported Kosovo’s result, Albanians on both sides of ically, they were much more pros- this has created two distinct identi- ‘nations’, especially by the current revolt against Serbian rule, the frontier had few chances to perous than us,” recalls Julian. His ties – separated from one another stress on Kosovo’s separate identi- Kosovo’s independence since 2008 communicate, for almost half a family originated from Mitrovica in the political sense of the word.” ty. has thrown up questions concern- century. in northern Kosovo, but he was With its own flag, national “What identity do I have?” asks ing the new state’s identity, and In Albania, the isolationist born and raised in a village close to anthem and other symbols, “we Arben, a worker at a pharmaceuti- about whether it differs from regime of Enver Hoxha also did its Fier, in central Albania. will progress towards the creation cal company in the western Albania’s. best to wipe out most aspects of Julian’s family had moved to of a Kosovar nation made up not Macedonian town of Tetovo. “Am I Some see the attempt to promote traditional Albanian culture. Albania after the Second World only of Albanians but other ethnic Albanian, Macedonian, Muslim, or a specific Kosovar identity as War to escape from Serbian repres- minority communities,” he pre- am I a Kosovar, as many in Albania imposed and invented and reject it Paradise is on the other sion, but felt the Albanian commu- dicts. call us?” as artificial. Others feel more posi- nist regime treated them even One obvious difference between For many Albanian politicians, tive. Either way, the question is a side more harshly than the Serbs had the two peoples is speech. The the answer to Arben’s question hot topic in Pristina, Tirana and done. Gheg dialect used in Kosovo differs about where he fits in must come, Skopje, among intellectuals, politi- For most Kosovo Albanians who “We couldn’t move from the vil- from the language that is taught in at least in part, through integra- cians and ordinary people alike. grew up in the former Yugoslavia, lage, let alone go to a European school and used in Albania. tion into the European Union. Albania was a proletarian para- metropolis like people in the for- Enver Hoxha, a southerner, Only then will Albanians Divided by borders dise, known only by the propagan- mer Yugoslavia could,” Julian imposed the southern Tosk dialect da images beamed out by Hoxha’s throughout the region be truly recalls. on all of Albania. As a result, use reunited, because national borders The origins of questions con- regime. The terror experienced by many of the Gheg dialect is often will then have little or no meaning. cerning Kosovo’s identity date “We saw Albania as the land of Kosovo Albanians during frowned upon. Speaking in Prishtina in back to the Balkan War of 1912, our dreams […] because it was an Milosevic’s rule shocked him. “I When Murat Rrahmani from October, Albania’s Prime Minister, when Serbia, Montenegro, , independent country and wasn’t understood what a police state they Mitrovica fled the armed conflict Sali Berisha, said that although the Romania and Bulgaria overran the ruled by others, like us and the were living in – constantly scared in Kosovo in 1999 with his wife, division of Kosovo from Albania last remaining swathe of Ottoman- Serbs,” says Sefer from Prishtina. for their lives,” he explains. mother and three daughters, he had left scars, they had remained ruled territory in the Balkans. He spent most of the 1990s in “Furthermore, they seemed differ- settled in the southern Albanian essentially one nation that aspired The result of the London Peace exile running an Albanian club on ent, as if they belonged to another town of Vlora. towards a common future in the Conference of 1913 was the parti- the outskirts of Lyon, France, and nation.” “I was worried,” Murat recalls. EU. tion of Macedonia between the vic- publishing a magazine, The Road He knew only that the town had tors and the creation of an inde- To Freedom. One identity or two? been at the centre of major unrest “The nation is one and undivid- pendent Albania. “What we knew of Albania was a few years earlier, following the ed, and there are not two Albanian However, almost half of the the propaganda that the regime Travelling from Tirana to failure of a series of pyramid nations as there are not two Croat region’s ethnic Albanian popula- broadcast on Radio Tirana,” he Pristina on the newly-constructed investment schemes. and Serb nations,” he said, adding: tion was left out of the new coun- recalled. four-lane highway is an enjoyable But the poor working-class fami- “There is no brighter future for us try after Serbia annexed Kosovo Sefer’s magazine praised Hoxha experience. A decade ago, it would ly with whom Murat and his family Albanians to wish for than integra- and what is now the Republic of as a ‘great patriot’. He said: “We have been unthinkable. took refuge surprised them with tion into the EU.” Macedonia. only became familiar with the real The idea that Kosovo would be their hospitality. Though still united by a common Albania during the 1999 exodus, an independent nation, recognised “Because of the difference in language and heritage, a state bor- when over 600,000 of us found by 62 states, including the US and dialect we had trouble understand- This article was produced as der now divided Albanians in refuge [in Albania] and saw with 22 of the 27 member states of the ing our hosts at first,” Murat says. part of the Balkan Fellowship for Albania and Albanians in Kosovo. our own eyes the misery of our European Union, was even more “But we adapted fast and after a Journalistic Excellence, an initia- After the Second World War, the dreamland,” he recalled. unimaginable back then. while we felt at home.” Now back tive of the Robert Bosch Stiftung border became firmer still. The “As we recognised each other, we Nexhmedin Spahiu, professor of in Kosovo, he and his family return and ERSTE Foundation, in cooper- two states in which Albanians understood better that we didn’t political science at the University to Vlora each year. ation with the Balkan Investigative lived now followed very different really know each other at all.” of Pristina and author of a book, Mehmet Shushollari, the con- Reporting Network, BIRN. • October 30 - November 12, 2009 8 Guide Coastal Montenegro: Archaeological Oasis of the eastern Adriatic On land and under the turquoise sea, Montenegro offers an undiscovered world for professional and amateur historians and archaeologists

She added: “Montenegro is large- out, I thought they were just rocks, ly an undiscovered underwater as most people would, but then I world.” noticed that they were cylindrical By Lawrence Marzouk The discovery was made while and knew that they couldn’t be nat- the Le Quesne family, from ural, so I called my dad over. Buckinghamshire, England, was on “I’ve been dragged around a lot British family has uncov- a trip to their holiday home in of ancient ruins, so if it hadn’t been ered what is believed to be a Montenegro. for that I wouldn’t have looked Alost, ancient temple while The family has been holidaying twice.” snorkelling in the Mediterranean. in the country since 1994, but had The potential size of the struc- The large submerged building off never visited Maljevik, a small bay ture and the discovery of other the Montenegrin coast may have of sand and shingle, sheltered by architectural remains nearby sug- been the centrepiece of an impor- pines, near the city of Bar. gest the ‘temple’ could have formed tant Greek or Roman trading post, Michael, 16, was swimming just part of a large Greek or Roman set- swallowed up by the sea during a off the popular beach, with his tlement, dating back as far as the massive earthquake. father Charles, mother Vera and his 2nd century BC. The discovery has sparked inter- ten-year-old sister Teodora, when No historical records exist of a national interest in the largely he spotted an odd looking ‘stone’ at major settlement on the site, unexplored world of archaeology in a depth of around two metres. although the Montenegrin coast is Montenegro. Mr Le Quesne, a professional dotted with ancient ruins yet to be Despite some significant work in archaeologist, fetched a snorkel and documented. areas such as the ancient city of dived down to investigate. He dis- The discovery has been described Bar, much of this small, mountain- covered fluted columns, 90cm in as “something that could rouse ous country has yet to be charted, diameter, on plinths, which curiosity in the world of science” especially the wrecks and ruins appeared to form part of an ancient by Mladen Zagarcanin, the curator which lie under water. Greek or Roman temple, basilica or of the museum in Bar and archaeol- A British team of experts led by major public building, similar to ogist, who inspected the site the fol- Dr Lucy Blue, presenter of BBC2 those at other archaeological sites lowing day. television show Oceans, is now to around the Mediterranean. Work on site began on Wednesday investigate the potentially signifi- On a clear day, the columns are as Mr Le Quesne returned to cant find in this largely unexplored visible from the surface of the Montenegro as part of a team work- corner of south east Europe. water, but it appears that the ing for the University of Photo byPhoto Zagarcanin Mladen Dr Blue said that if the discovery remains, which include ancient pot- Southampton’s Department of The discovery of an underwater temple has foucsed attention on Montenegro’s rich history is confirmed to be an underwater tery, have stayed untouched for Maritime Archaeology. will join Mr Le Quesne to explore which have flourished in the region temple it would “put Montenegro thousands of years. Dr Blue and Professor David the underwater settlement next since the collapse of Yugoslavia in on the map”. Michael said: “When I first swam Peacock, both of the department, spring. the 90s. Valuable Roman and Greek Mr Le Quesne, an archaeology pottery from shipwrecks is being expert and author on the subject, plundered and sold to collectors in said: “If it is a monumental build- western Europe, it is believed. Something for the weekend… ing it is not going to be part of a So far, 2009 has proved an exciting small hamlet, but it is not a missing year for underwater archaeology in Atlantis, as we would already know Montenegro. Belgrade restaurants about it. It remains a bit of a mys- Before the discovery of the tery.” ancient temple, a local team work- Ok, so Prishtina is well served in one of the funkiest bars you’ll like- tender and tasty. The bearnaise “The area was an important, ing alongside American experts dis- good restaurants, so why spend five ly to find anywhere in the world, sauce was, it seemed, based on ancient trading route, so it may covered the remains of two Roman hours slogging it up to Belgrade, Supermarket is an anthology of cream, rather than eggs and butter have been a port. cargo ships at the bottom of Kotor you may be asking? cool. The food is excellent, too. and really missed a good hit of tar- “There are ancient shipwrecks Bay, one of Montenegro most popu- Well, while Kosovo’s capital A Thai chicken soup was aromat- ragon, but was good nevertheless. all along this coast which, unfortu- lar tourist attractions. undoubtedly provides a fine selec- ic, spicy and loaded with good Supermarket is one of the few nately, are being damaged and loot- An Italian and Montenegrin team tion of eateries, it cannot compete chunks of chicken, salmon spring places where it’s possible to get ed and which need protecting.” is also working on the ancient set- with the White City in terms of rolls were crispy, and had a gener- good wine by the glass - which is In recent years, Montenegro’s tlement of Stari Bar, which was variety and top-end, innovative din- ous mix of salmon and crunchy veg- perfect for a quick lunch - and rich, unexplored ancient history occupied by Illyrian tribes because ing options. etables inside and were served with despite the 500 dinar price tag, it’s a has lured organised crime gangs, of its important defensive position. Supermarket, at Visnjiceva 10, is a sweet, hot dipping sauce. good value offering. one recent edition to Belgrade’s top- Sushi was fresh, well prepared This is not fine dining - don’t table list, and offers a lot more than and nicely presented with enough expect linen tablecloths and silver just decent grub. wasabi and ginger to keep us happy service, but it’s innovative good Coastal Montenegro: Combining stylish designer fur- and a fillet steak served on top of an quality food well presented and niture, clothes, music, books and al dente julienne of vegetables was served in a stylish environment. Archaeological oasis of the eastern Adriatic Little imagination is needed to call to mind the fantastic Illyrian backdrop in Shakespeare’s By Louise Schofield and Twelfth Night. The country is Sean Kingsley both a dream and a source of nightmare for the archaeologist. ontenegro, nestling along One is hard pressed to think of the eastern Adriatic coast- any other European country Mline, is simply enchanting. whose archaeological landscape Alongside stunning landscapes of remains so enigmatically terra dense forest, undulating moun- incognita. Because Montenegro tains, and well-sheltered smugglers’ has for centuries comprised the coves, Illyrian hill-forts, enclosed periphery of empires and nations, medieval towns, and baroque places historically its cultural heritage illuminate a land that time - and has tended to be neglected. In certainly globalisation - has long terms of potential, however, it is Photo byPhoto Insight Belgrade left to its own devices. over-ripe for picking. Supermarket - great food, designer furniture, clothes, music, books and one of the funkiest bars around By Arif Muharremi • October 30 - November 12, 2009 9 in Prishtina Art & Culture Jazzing up Prishtina

Prishtina Jazz Festival kicks off on November 1, promising a week of saxophone blasts, drum beats, and deep bass sounds rishtina’s Jazz Festival has been grow- Roedelius, Robin Verheyen, Aki Rissanen, ing, and screaming for more internation- Peppe La Pussata, Tim Story, Francesco Pal jazz stars to come to Kosovo, to enter- D’Errico, Yiotis Kiourtisoglou and many oth- tain an enthusiastic audience and mix with ers. local musicians and artists. And this year, the According to Bajri, besides delivering organisers say, it’s going to be an extra special extraordinary performances, the world stars programme – because everybody wants to be also became dear friends of the festival and here. are promoting it throughout the world. This year marks the fifth coming of the He also sees the festival as a good opportuni- annual jazz gathering, and organisers say that ty for Kosovar musicians to discover new they did not expect the event to grow into such influences, and opportunities to present their an important date on the country’s cultural cal- music on foreign stages. endar. “We are convinced that we’re on the right Festival director Ilir Bajri said that reaching path and that the future Prishtina Jazz the fifth year was a milestone he had set for the Festival will continue to get better and more event to demonstrate that a jazz festival could fruitful,” explained Bajri, adding that the work in Kosovo. event would not be possible without generous He said: “Only in this way we would prove donors. that a decent jazz festival can be organised in “Jazz brings people together, and that’s the Kosovo and, more importantly, to prove that fundamental point of this festival,” said Bajri. Robin Verheyen there is a need for such a festival. Prishtina Jazz festival has kept the ticket “Prishtina Jazz Festival, acclaimed as one of Bajri added that his ‘baby’ has also found its prices the same this year – so it’s 5 euro per the most important cultural events in the coun- place in the network of European and world concert or a special price of 35 euro if you try, has managed to bring famous and impor- jazz festivals. want to purchase tickets for all events. tant artists from across the world and has stim- Over the years, the festival has hosted world Tickets can be purchased at Oda Theatre, ulated and encouraged the development and famous musicians such as Uri Caine, Reggie where all concerts will be held at 8pm. For improvement of the local jazz scene.” Washington, Giulio Martino, Hans-Joachim more information call 038 246555

Day 1 – Sunday, November 1 Day 3 – Tuesday, November 3 Day 5 – Thursday, November 5 Day 7 – Saturday, November 7 Day 9 – Monday, November 9

JR5+ featuring Miles Griffith Nicole Henry Marzio Scholten Quartet Emanuele Melisurgo & Ambasadi USA, Slovenia, Austria, USA Holland Simone Maggio Duo Kosovo Serbia Her beautiful, unforgettable Sabina Marzio Scholten is Italy Ambasadi’s jazz mixes differ- Ira Gitler of Jazz Times voice combines jazz, pop, and regarded as one of the most The duo is Winds in Tunes ent musical styles and is strong- states, “Griffith’s balladry soulful nuances with spirited talented and promising mod- which they say was born of ly influenced by Dub, African, bows in the direction of the joie de vivre. ern jazz guitarists and com- their friendship and the desire Electro and Folk minimalism. romantic baritones of the ‘40s posers in Europe. to be humble instruments of and ‘50s”. music.

festival Programme Day 2 – Monday, November 2 Day 4 – Wed, November 4 Day 6 – Friday, November 6 Day 8- Sunday, November 8 Day 10 – Friday, November 13

Bob Albanese Trio Robin Verheyen Country Jazz Trio Matija Dedic Trio Special Concert: Eda Zari & USA International Quartet France, Canada Croatia Friends Pianist, composer, educator, Belgium, USA Their influences span from Born in Zagreb on March 2nd Albania, Kosovo Bob Albanese, a native of Flemish saxophonist Robin Scandinavian to Persian folk 1973, Matija started playing Eda Zari is a singer, producer Newark, New Jersey, is one of Verheyen is only 25 years old, music, Pop, African music and classic piano at the age of five. and composer from Albania. the most versatile and original but his career is already jazz standards. voices in jazz and contempo- impressive. In Belgium he rary music on the New York recently received the major scene today. jazz prize Django d’Or. Jazz • October 30 - November 12, 2009 10 Food & Drink

No Revolution at Prishtina’s Favourite Chinese Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit

What was proven during this outing was that the quality of the By Maneater in Prishtina dishes corresponded with the price.

ot much has changed at the Chinese printed pictures of the dishes are arranged in tically as the morsels of chicken were so small Restaurant in downtown Prishtina plastic binders, with the choice of accompany- they were hardly even noticeable. The veggies Nsince I first dined at the venue about ing beef, pork or chicken. were merely pre-packaged frozen peas and car- this time three years ago. Red plastic table- We went with a serving of spring rolls, rots, and, get ready for this one – the rice was- We Recommend cloths still cover the tables, Chinatown orna- dumplings and spicy cabbage salad for starters. n’t even fried. Any sort of traditional season- ments continue to gather dust and hang from All dishes arrived sizzling hot, confirming ing was also missing. for Quick Bites: the ceiling, and a mural of the Great Wall of fresh preparation. Vegetable spring rolls were The fried noodles were slightly more accept- China seems to have gradually faded into a vin- crisply fried and went well with the sweet and able, incorporating fresh vegetables and a stir- Hani I 2 Roberteve tage poster. sour sauce. The dumplings were slightly under- fried tang. Nevertheless, perhaps a dose of egg However, one thing has changed - UNMIK cooked, so you may want to request a few extra noodles would assist in transforming this dish Tucked away from the mobs uniforms have replaced by those of EULEX, as minutes of boiling. All in all, the appetizers into a more genuine one. And again, classic of people walking across the vast majority of guests are part of were perfect for communal nibbling. seasonings, such as ginger or garlic were miss- Mother Teresa Square is Hani i Prishtina’s international community. Despite For the main courses, we decided on fried ing. 2 Roberteve, the new location of the absence of any makeover to the interior or noodles and vegetables, sweet and sour chick- The pork and cauliflower dish was nicely a restaurant and wine bar with menu, a regular clientele remain loyal to this en, chicken and fried rice, and pork and cab- presented but, again, a little bland. Shredded an already mature reputation dingy takeout-esque place. bage. The waiter promptly brought our dishes cabbage, sliced onion, green pepper, carrots, in classy service. Showy signs After taking a seat by the large windows with while we were still picking at our appetizers. and pieces of beautiful cauliflower, which had and fancy advertisements are my dinner party, we glanced at the menu, so Our favourite dish was, by far, the sweet and all been bowled, sat on a bed of tasty pork absent from the entrance. The reminiscent of many low-end Chinese restau- sour chicken, which seemed the most authen- juices and shredded meat. style is reserved for the gor- rants dotted around the world. Poor quality tic. The chicken and fried rice dish failed dras- What was proven during this outing was that geous interior instead. the quality of the dishes corresponded with the price. At 3 euro, the chicken and fried rice People’s Bistro and failed miserably, while at 6 euro, the sweet and Wine Bar sour chicken was very adequate. It is a culinary approach that I dislike, as quality should be the People’s lunch and dinner benchmark of every dish. menu offers up the bistro clas- Also, the comforting food of low-end Chinese sics, such as Italian inspired cuisine was missing – the fried noodles, over- salads, burgers, chicken main powering stir fries and beautifully seasoned courses, classic pastas, and an meats. This venue is obviously not trying to array of standard sandwiches. deliver high-quality dining but I would recom- But the décor and quality of mend that they flavour up every one of their food give it the edge in a com- dishes. I’m sure I wouldn’t be the only one mak- petitive market. ing weekly noodle-craving pit stops if only they were scrumptiously fried. Tranquil Café Despite the criticism, the Chinese Restaurant remains an asset to Prishtina’s culi- Tranquil, a recent addition nary world as it offers something different to the many bars and cafés of from the throng of copycat restaurants in the Te Kafet e Vogla area, has an heart of the city.It is just a shame that the food array of sandwiches, salads, doesn’t quite deliver. more filling main courses such as Mexican specialties and pas- Address: Luan Haradinaj Boulevard, tas. This is a good place for a across from the police station quick lunch. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit By Shega A’Mula • October 30 - November 12, 2009 11 in Prishtina Inside Prishtina

Building Review: Shop Review: As the OSCE moves out its building, Kara Kids ith all the reproduction going on in this country, it Prishtina Insight looks back at its history Wis relieving to know that a selection of stylish clothing is now eflections of Kosovo’s capital Prishtina are projected towards its much more modern appearance, present at the entrance just over a available for kids in the heart of city bounce off the glazed citizens, the actual structure has almost futuristic, with its round- decade ago. downtown. Rfaçade of the former Ljubljana changed very little since its construc- ed edges and peculiar protruding Suspending ceilings were Macedonian clothing firm Kara, Bank office building located in the tion in the mid 80s, during the past emergency staircase, which is installed on most of the ten floors, which already offers women’s downtown district known as Qafa, or Yugoslav Regime. located alongside of main further adding to the very lacklus- apparel in a store in Pejton, has the neck, to locals and internationals Compared to its surrounding entrance. Teuta Jashari, archi- tre interior of wood-paneled walls opened up a new shop across from alike. As images of an ever changing structures, the OSCE building has a tect and professor at University and peach coloured commercial Prishtina’s police station, housing of Prishtina, told Prishtina carpeting. quality clothing for boys and girls. Insight that the chosen design The three first floors of the Bundles of turtlenecks, t-shirts, reflected building trends of that building are currently used for trousers and sweater sit alongside period. administrative purposes, while smarter outfits such as crisp shirts “The building’s architecture is the fourth floor is used as a confer- for boys and colourful dresses for based on a typical concept of that ence area which still holds an girls. Nevertheless, even these for- time called high-technology, original piece of Yugoslav furni- mal selections are still very soft to which Yugoslavia tended to used ture – one of the only ones in the the touch. throughout its territory,”she said. building. Available sizes start at four After Former Yugoslav “This round wooden conference months and go up to 12 years. President Tito’s death, and a table and its chairs are from the Meanwhile, prices range from 4.99 change of government in the Yugoslav period, and can be con- euro for a t-shirt to 36 euro for a lus- early nineties, the Ljubljana Bank sidered a sort of antique,” said cious girl’s coat. changed it name to Yugo Bank. Teuta on Prishtina Insight’s tour. Autumn fashion trends are cur- The OSCE took up offices at the After passing through another rently available, with plenty of bank’s Prishtina headquarters in four floors of office space, sizes to go around, offering grown- 1998, opening the Kosovo Prishtina Insight was taken to the up styles for any child’s frame. Verification Mission, which was ninth level, which is the bar, Although winter coats and jack- meant to prevent clashes in the smoking area and restaurant. ets are already available, more former Yugoslav province. Why a bank would need a bar is options will be coming with the But the conflict escalated, and not entirely clear, but the original winter collection which is expected the OSCE employees were forced interior still remains. to arrive within a couple of weeks. to evacuate the building. Despite But what remains the best fea- Gift packaging is also available, this, many national security ture of the building is its high bal- but the shop will charge you a small guards are believed to have safe- cony, which surrounds the ninth fee for the service. guarded the building at that time, floor. Literally every neighbor- said Teuta, who worked in the hood of the city is visible from OSCE department before the con- this point, a view that OSCE staff flict erupted. will soon no longer be able to “There was a bit of chaos when enjoy, as the mission has we returned, signs of the con- announced that it will be moving flict,” she said, adding that the out of the building soon. building had to go though many The OSCE no longer sees the renovations in order to keep the need to occupy such this large OSCE staff in comfort. building and will be moving out, “The air conditioning and ven- although the exact date is still tilation did not work at all and had unknown. to be replaced. Many large offices As the OSCE prepares to leave, were also divided into smaller the building’s new residents are ones,” she said. still unknown. And, according to A large metal detector accompa- reports, Yugo Bank sold segments nied by numerous security guards of the building to other entities, make it quite difficult to picture creating even larger problems Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit the friendly bank lobby that was when it comes to the ownership. OSCE building Bar Review: The Dubliner Irish Pub

rishtina’s newest watering hole may be global inspiration to good use in his country.But less than two weeks old, but its Irish charm thankfully, instead of opening a hotel or a cloth- Phas already summoned loads of visitors ing store, he went with a classic pub instead. into this loud bar. If it’s not a dozen Liverpool Irish imports include Guinness and Kilkenny fans, or a live band, it’s the after work pint- beer and many other international brands are drinkers or the late night party-goers who create available. Classic Irish whiskies are also on such a thunderous, but appealing atmosphere. If offer. you fit into any of these categories, then The As far as pub food is concerned, Ademi is just Dubliner’s definitely for you. awaiting a license from the municipality, which It’s hard to tell whether it is night or day will then entitle him to serve classic pub dishes inside the pub, as it is windowless, and only lit such as burgers and fish and chips to his clients. by classic stained glass fixtures. Leather bound- Other than becoming a great place to enjoy ed booths surround the inside and the central football games, which are regularly transmitted bar, while various tables are oddly placed live from three flat-screen LCD televisions, throughout the area. Lacquered wood, green bands will also entertain punters two days a embellishments and lots of Guinness posters are week. Halloween at the Dubliner is expected to easy on the eye, and successfully contribute to be quite an event, with a live performance by creating a very casual and inviting atmosphere. local band Asgje Sikur Dielli. Owner Fisnik Ademi fell in love with Irish hospitality after living in Dublin for six months. Call +377 44 207 067 for more information

After arriving back to his homeland, Ademi took Johan V. Hahn, Prishtina, Kosovo (near byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit the classic diaspora route and decided to put his Grand Hotel) Dubliner Irish Pub 12 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 neighbourhood

Karadzic Trial Starts

Concerns Grow as Bosnians The Hague Prosecution said it would show that Radovan Karadzic had full control over the Republika Srpska Army and was the architect of the shelling and sniper cam- Reject Reform Package paign in Sarajevo on the first day of the trail The Prosecution said it seeks to prove "Karadzic controlled the forces which par- ticipated in the siege and fashioned the News in brief News shelling and sniper fire with the aim of ter- By Srecko Latal in Sarajevo rorizing the city residents". Karadzic has refused to appear before the court. efusal of party leaders to sign up to EU and US-proposed constitutional Rchanges means Bosnia will remain mired in the current deadlock. Fikret Jahic, a deputy in one of Bosnia’s regional assemblies, chained himself to the granite pillars of a war victims’ memorial in the northern town of Tuzla on Wednesday. Protesting against the futility of local and international efforts to end Bosnia’s political impasse, he said: “Europe should stop tight- ening up chains around Bosnia and Photo byPhoto ICTY Herzegovina”. Radovan Karadzic at The Hague His direct action illustrates the growing concern felt by most people in the troubled byPhoto EUFOR The Butmir talks failed to break the deadlock between factions in Bosnia Balkan state. Local and international officials Albania to Bolster Ties with and experts share their gloom, following November. The PIC, comprised of 55 coun- goal – the swift closure of the OHR – rather Serbia another failed attempt by EU and US officials tries and agencies, oversees peace imple- than bringing about thorough reform. to help squabbling local leaders find a com- mentation and the work of the Office of the oreign Affairs Minister Ilir Meta promise and a way out of the ongoing crisis. High Representative, OHR. Botched process: declared on Monday that Albania would “We have met seven of the party political Fmove to strengthen its ties with Serbia, leaders of for the Who’s to blame? The process by which the EU-US package describing the country as an important part- second time in ten days to encourage them to came about and the way the negotiations ner for regional stability in the Balkans. take the steps necessary to move forward Many people blamed local leaders and were organised were another reason for “The strengthening of our relationship toward this goal,” read a joint statement their unyielding and unrealistic positions. talks’ failures, sources say. with Serbia is an important priority for our issued on Wednesday by US Deputy “Thanks to maximalist and ethno-national- The initiative came out of the blue to all regional policy,” said Meta, speaking during Secretary of State James Steinberg and Carl ist demands and positions, this proposal the key international and local players a Tirana conference, organised by the Bildt, Sweden’s foreign minister. Sweden was rejected,” the SDA said in its statement. while the OHR and High Representative Albanian Institute for International Studies. currently holds the EU’s rotating presidency. Fadil Mandal, in his Thursday column in Valentin Inzko were all but ignored and cir- Meta said that Albania would back The statement went on to say that while the Sarajevo daily Dnevni Avaz, agreed. cumvented in the preparation of the docu- Serbia’s participation in the Southeastern “some limited progress has been made… “Political elites have no interest to change ment and in the negotiations themselves. Europe Defence Ministers’ meeting, argu- some of the parties will need to demonstrate anything in this country because their stom- In addition, the list of invitees – which ing that without Belgrade’s participation greater determination and flexibility if they achs and wallets are full,” he said. included one completely irrelevant politi- such meetings and organisations would be are truly committed to achieve their stated Besides irresponsible domestic politi- cian and excluded the second-strongest incomplete. goal”. The two diplomats announced that cians, some experts and Western diplomats Bosnian Serb party – showed Western poli- talks would continue on a technical level blamed the EU and US administrations and cy-makers still do not grasp political reali- Macedonian Pensions for next week. officials involved in the initiative. They ties in Bosnia. Steinberg and Bildt avoided talk of out- described the package and the manner of its Even the incentives that EU and US offi- Former Insurgents right failure and even sounded cautiously execution as ill-prepared, confusing and in cials offered to local leaders as a reward for optimistic after the meeting. However, state- some ways counterproductive. acceptance of the package managed to irri- he families of former ethnic Albanian ments given by local leaders before, during tate local and international players. insurgents should be granted state and after the meeting, revealed deep pes- Secret document: According to sources close to the talks, Tpensions by the end of the year, the simism and pointed to growing antagonism. local leaders’ acceptance of the package country’s social policy minister says. Referring to the package of EU and US pro- The document offered to local leaders was supposed to be rewarded with a visa- Groups from the two main government posals, the ruling Bosniak (Bosnian Muslim) was kept secret and away from public until free regime with the EU, candidate status in coalition partners, the centre-right VMRO- party, the Party of Democratic Action, SDA, almost the last day of the talks. Once its the EU and fast-track entry into NATO. DPMNE and ethnic Albanian Democratic said that the politicians responsible for its contents were finally leaked, it became But some local and international officials Union for Integration, DUI, are already rejection were “deliberately pushing Bosnia clear that it contained a set of proposed believe the EU and US should not be trading working on this, the minister, Xhelal and Herzegovina into further radicalisation, constitutional reforms and changes that with these benefits in this way,because they Bajrami, told A1 TV. new divisions and conflicts”. would lead to the closure of the OHR. show membership processes are political In 2001, Macedonia suffered a short-lived The SDA was the only one of the seven The main point of dispute in the consti- and not technical issues. insurgency, instigated by the ethnic parties attending the talks at Butmir, near tutional section was the issue of entity vot- Albanian National Liberation Army, NLA. Sarajevo, to conditionally accept the pack- ing. Bosniaks want this right removed New way forward needed: age. All the others rejected it. while Bosnian Serbs are determined to . Indictment Issued in The proposals were allegedly aligned so as retain it. Some officials and experts are already Pukanic Case not to alienate the toughest negotiators, the But although last week’s European mulling new approaches. One senior leaders of the Bosnian Serb entity, the Commission report on Bosnia identified Western diplomat said the international he Serbian Special Prosecution has Republika Srpska. But they flatly rebuffed entity voting as a key obstacle that was community needed first to face up to its indicted Sreten Jocic, aka Joca the deal. delaying Bosnia’s EU accession process, own past mistakes in region. TAmsterdam, on charges of ordering As for the Bosniaks and Bosnian Croats, the proposed package excluded its abolition Bosnia’s High Representative Valentin and organising the murder of the publisher the document failed to satisfy even their as a requirement. Inzko said that in addition to the governing of Croatian weekly Nacional, Ivo Pukanic. most basic demands. Western diplomatic sources said the enti- powers vested in the OHR, the internation- Special Prosecutor Miljko Radisavljevic The initiative launched by Steinberg and ty voting issue was included in the EC al community might want to adopt addi- revealed that the indictment also charges Bildt on October 9 came out of the blue. The progress report at the last minute and on tional measures to stop “bad guys” in Zeljko Milovanovic and Milenko EU-US duo simply summoned representatives the specific insistence of the top EU offi- Bosnia. The range of punitive measures Kuzmanovic as accomplices. of the leading Bosnian parties to the military cials in Brussels. could include cutting off funding for unco- According to the charges, the indictees camp at Butmir and then presented them with But US officials had decided to exclude operative communities, travel restrictions killed Pukanic in return for a payment of a package of conditions and incentives. this issue from the proposed reform pack- on certain politicians and the freezing of “at least 1.5 million euro”. A team of EU and US experts stayed in the age to win over Bosnian Serb leaders. their foreign assets. country for another ten days holding meet- Experts say that even if the seven leaders Wolfgang Petritsch, Paddy Ashdown and ings with local leaders to reach some sort of had all accepted the document and by some Christian Schwarz-Schilling, who served as compromise. High-level talks continued at miracle the parliaments had adopted it, it High Representatives to Bosnia between Butmir on October 20 and 21. But the talks would have brought about no concrete 1999 und 2007, issued a joint statement on were doomed by then, after almost all local changes. October 18 in which they proposed other leaders had rejected all or part of the package. A proposed declaration about the regula- new approaches to the Bosnian issue. Despite concerns that the collapse of the tion of state and military property, needed International efforts to get Bosnia back latest EU-US efforts could further complicate before the OHR can close, also failed to on track would not succeed unless “we our- the situation, Steinberg and Bildt put on a impress experts and politicians. selves work in a serene, inclusive, non- brave face. They said talks would continue at Some said the nature of the proposed antagonistic and transparent manner in a technical level until the next session of the documents showed that it was essentially good faith and based on objective criteria,” byPhoto FoNet Peace Implementation Council, PIC, in mid- aimed at satisfying the EU’s current main they said in a statement. The wreck of Pukanic’s car following the deadly bomb opinion • October 30 - November 12, 2009 13 How Serbia is Undermining Dear Teta Mia... Kosovo’s Institutions Teta Mia solves your problems in June 2009. ty transmission system operator Twenty-two European Union mem- (KOSTT) is not an equal partner in the ber states have recognised Kosovo as regional energy trade market. Who should I vote for? By Liridon Latifi an independent and sovereign state. Serbia’s operator is instead compen- Yet, Kosovo’s path towards the sated for electricity transit through European Union is hindered by the the Kosovo transmission grid, while it Confused, Prishtina five non-recognising states (Romania, continues to allocate the interconnec- erbia has managed to deceive the Slovakia, Cyprus, Spain, and Greece), tion transmission capacities of sshh... European Union into thinking making it impossible for Kosovo to KOSTT. Moreover, Kosovo Serbs in the Sthat, in relation to Kosovo, it is enter into contractual agreements north have not paid their electricity S being constructive and pragmatic. with the European Union. bills since 1999. In defiance of Kosovo Stop for a moment. Unfortunately, that is not the case. The European Commission’s law, Serb populated areas in the north From the end of the 1999 conflict, Progress Report of 2009 for Serbia asks were recently connected to Serbia’s Listen. Underneath the blare of car horns, the cack- Serbia has used all of its political, eco- the Serb state to demonstrate a more electricity company. ling of the autumn crows, the frustrated growl of gen- nomic, intelligence, and diplomatic constructive position towards the The north of Kosovo remains an erators... Can you hear it? Maybe not, but can you feel capital to undermine the effectiveness issues regarding Kosovo. area out of the reach of Kosovo insti- it? I think I can. I think I can feel a rumbling. of Kosovo institutions and the work of Now, let us examine in detail, what tution and an issue of concern when it The mayoral campaign in Prishtina is overwhelming the international community. the current situation is with respect to comes to organised crime. Serbian our senses. On the radio, jingles for this candidate or Serbia’s actions have gone towards Kosovo – Serbia relations. state-funded parallel institutions on that candidate compete with commands to “voto!” On one single and unified aim: make In a number of fields such as trade, customs, police, and judiciary contin- Kosovo a failed state in Europe. the TV, every conceivable ad slot is taken up with education, energy, customs, police, ue to operate in defiance of Kosovo Therefore, it is imperative that a con- promises and threats. Every billboard is festooned judiciary, recognition of documents, law. structive approach towards Kosovo with smiling faces and numbers, numbers everywhere. land registry, population census, and In northern Mitrovica, four police should be put as a requirement The cafe gossip is only about the elections – and the elections, Serbia’s approach towards stations do not report to Kosovo insti- towards further deepening of Serbia’s campaign itself (a sort of meta-gossip, I suppose). So, Kosovo is unhelpful. In all these mat- tutions. Kosovo cannot and will not tol- ties with the European Union. Indeed, to answer your question, Confused, I turned to the ters, which are of great concern to all erate that income that is collected in Kosovo counts on its allies in Europe the citizens of Kosovo, Serbia has been tranquility of Facebook for some less frenetic its northern border crossings go to the to do just that. consistent in its policies by financing research. Serb community, for that money legal- Serbia is being rewarded for its sup- parallel structures in Kosovo. The campaign on Facebook seems to be essentially a ly belongs to the Kosovo budget. posed good behavior, gaining from the These parallel structures continue to two-man, no – one-man-one-cat – race between Rio the On free movement of people, Kosovo visa liberalisation process from the hinder the integration of the Serb com- Cat and Mehmet Kosova. citizens cannot travel to and through European Commission. munity into the wider Kosovo society. Let’s assess these two candidates against four crite- Serbia with Kosovo passports and Many in Kosovo rightly feel that as On trade issues, more specifically ria. identification documents because victims of Serb oppression they are CEFTA, the European Union has made First, how photogenic are they? After all, we will of Serbia does not recognise them. unjustly left out of the visa liberalisa- it clear that regional cooperation is an course be seeing their posters all over town as serious Kosovo licence plates are not recog- tion. In practice, Serb citizens who essential element of the European candidates for mayor of Prishtina. Since a billboard nised either. In this regard, Kosovo is committed crimes in Kosovo will soon Union policy. Yet, Serbia and Bosnia typically covers 12-15 square metres, our candidate of rather constructive, allowing Serb citi- be able to roam freely in Europe, while continue to block Kosovo’s exports to choice has to look good even with a face the size of a zens to enter Kosovo with their docu- their victims in Kosovo are further iso- these countries because they only small car. ments and cars. lated. In theory, even the Bosnian Serb accept the United Nations mission in Mehmet is a true teenage pin-up. Imagine his sultry Last but not least, some Kosovo land fugitive, general Ratko Mladic, who Kosovo as the signatory to these agree- eyes the size of watermelons, gazing out at you. It committed some of the worst atroci- ments. If the status quo persists, registry books have remained in would be enough to cause a traffic accident! ties in Europe after the WWII, will Kosovo could be forced to take recipro- Serbia’s hands since 1999. Serbia But Rio is a cat. No matter how good Mehmet’s mar- soon be able to travel freely in Europe cal measures and block imports from should be pressured into returning keting campaign managers are, you just can’t beat that on a Serbian passport. these two countries. these books to Kosovo as soon as possi- feline appeal. The people of Kosovo are fortunate In the short run, prices would rise in ble. Second, who is the most honourable? Who would you that the international community Kosovo, while in the long run, Kosovo Serbia should also tell the Kosovo trust the most with your vote and with your tax? intervened to stop the bloodshed and would benefit from such measures Serb community to take part in the Mehmet has built his fan-base on his honour, fighting end the brutal crackdown of the because its local producers would gain, planned population census of Kosovo for justice, truth and fairness. We know that Mehmet Serbian state. The people of Kosovo in while at the same time directing its authorities. More importantly, Kosovo will protect the weak, feed the poor, and deserve the partnership with the international trade more towards Albania, Serbs should take part in the upcom- woman at the end. community for a decade now have Macedonia and through Italy and ing local elections of November 15. And Rio is a cat. Cats don’t know the meaning of directed their efforts into building a Greece to Western Europe. On the whole, these are fields where honour. Just watch Rio rub himself against anyone’s functioning democratic and multi-eth- On education, Serbian state-funded Serbia makes life difficult for Kosovo leg – as long as he gets a nice saucer of milk and a fresh nic state that respects minority rights parallel structures in Kosovo have set citizens. By supporting parallel struc- sardine out of it. and is build upon principles of equali- up an education system where tures, Serbia intentionally tries to Third, how independent are they? Do they think for ty and freedom. These values are Serbian-speaking pupils are schooled weaken Kosovo institutions. The themselves or do they do as they’re told? Mehmet enshrined in the Constitution of the by a Serb curriculum according to European Union possesses the means scores badly here. He reads the lines of his script Republic of Kosovo, a document pro- Serbian law. to radically alter Serbia’s approach writer, and can’t really deviate from them. duced based on the proposals of the The Progress Reports for both coun- towards Kosovo. A constructive and Rio, on the other hand, is a cat. His reputation is Nobel Prize winner, Marti Ahtisaari. tries make it clear that this does not helpful approach of Serbia towards founded on his independence and is a slave to no one. Kosovo declared independence on 17 facilitate reconciliation and multi-eth- Kosovo will lead to reconciliation and Lastly – and least importantly – which of the two Feb 2008 and to this day it has been rec- nicity. In addition, Serbia does not better understanding in this part of candidates, Rio or Mehmet, has the best plan for ognized by 62 states (representing recognise Kosovo diplomas, thus dis- the Balkans. Prishtina? Who has a long-term strategy for the rejuve- 71.7% of the world’s total nominal couraging Kosovo Serbs to attend Kosovo institutions expect the nation of this proud city? Who can come up with a GDP). Kosovo joined the World Bank University of Prishtina. European Union and Serbia to work on solution for resolving the pressure on the only hospital and the International Monetary Fund On energy issues, Kosovo’s electrici- that goal. in the region? Who knows what to do about the traffic chaos, the power and water cuts, the illegal – and oh so ugly – buildings? Who has a vision for Prishtina? And who has thought through the budget for it? Readers’ Letters Unfortunately, neither Rio the Cat nor Mehmet Dear Prishtina Insight, surfaces. It is a wonderful feeling to a blast with my horn when I got close to Kosova has revealed their manifesto to an expectant know that I can safely leave my vehicle her. What are these people thinking? public or made themselves available to feature on elec- would like to share my feelings with there all day. In conclusion, I would just like to say tion debates, so I am unable to judge which of the two other readers of the Insight. I’m talk- One thing though that I would like to “way to go” to the mayor and his senior acquits himself better. Iing about the delight and gratitude request of the mayor is to do something staff for taking this approach to manag- I leave it to you, Confused, to decide. And while towards the mayor and municipality of about these pesky pedestrians who have ing the traffic in the center. you’re thinking about it – perhaps reading the Prishtina for repairing so many of the the temerity to walk right in the middle So many other European capitals are Facebook comments, going to a rally or discussion sidewalks that intersect with Mother of these same streets. giving in to whining pedestrians who group, poring over the daily newspapers with friends Teresa Blvd. Before, they were a filthy I ask you, how are we supposed to get greedily demand to use the sidewalks for in a cafe, drinking far too much at one of the political jumble of broken concrete, jagged pipes our vehicles into their parking spaces on themselves instead of giving them up to parties – pause for a moment. and missing curb segments. Now they the sidewalk? The other day,I even saw a the common good. Can you feel it? Can you feel the rumbling? are smooth and beautiful, with carefully pregnant woman with a small child in a Fred Van Antwerp Or is it just the purring of Rio the Cat? laid bricks and new curbs. For the first stroller making her way down the mid- Thankful in Prishtina time, I, and my appreciative fellow trav- dle of one of these streets and holding up Email your questions to Teta Mia at: ellers, can park our Mercedes and several cars behind her. To send your letters to Prishtina [email protected] Nissan SUVs on these even, spacious I, like the other drivers, really gave her Insight, email [email protected] 14 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 If you would like your NGO to appear in our Making a Difference feature, please NGO Focus email [email protected] To the Aid of those with HIV/AIDS ment and hospital would fail totally,” He added. He said he was soon to meet By Petrit Collaku the Minister of Health and address this issue with him. “It is very important for the clients to have their therapy in IV/AIDS sufferers in place. This delay can lead to Kosovo not only have to dangerous health problems,” H contend with their ill- said Alban. ness, but also the stigma which The NGO, which was formed surrounds this infliction. in 2006, also offers psycho- These problems, and many social and medical services others, are being tackled by the with the aim of supporting Kosovo association for people clients and their families in with HIV/AIDS, KAPHA. order to cope with life prob- The first person believed to lems. have been infected with “Another problem for the HIV/AIDS in Kosovo was in clients is when they are stigma- 1986. According to KAPHA, the tised by their family, society total number believed to have and by the health institutions,” been infected is 74. Many have Violeta Zefi,a psychologist at died, but an even larger number the NGO, said. are unaccounted for. “We are currently implement- “We have 14 clients infected ing the activities of our project with HIV/AIDS that we deal with Global Fund. We will train with at our NGO,” Alban health and social employees Gjonbalaj, executive director of and publicise this issue,” said KAPHA, told Prishtina Insight. Zefi. He stressed that the number “Management of individual has increased this year by four cases addresses the needs of people - or a family with two the infected clients and helps young children. them to overcome the difficul- “The risk all depends on the ties they face,” Zefi added. Photo byPhoto Besar Likmeta people’s behaviour,” said Alban. KAPHA plan a campaign to provide clean needles to drug users in Kosovo to avoid HIV/AIDS infections This NGO was initially “Young generations should be financed by UNDP and UNICEF careful and should know how to he was planning a campaign to starting therapy. Alban said for four months. but since April 2009, the NGO is protect themselves.” supply clean needles to drug that due to some procurement “We have only 14 persons con- supported by Global Fund. Alban said that some no users to avoid infections. problems with the Ministry of firmed receiving treatment. clients had been infected with One of the problems that Health, Prishtina Hospital had What if there are 100 people? For more information visit HIV through drug use but that infected persons face is delay in been without antiviral drugs The Ministry, Kosovo’s govern- www.kapha.org.

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Embassies and Liaison Offices in Prishtina 516493287 American Bulgarian French Japanese 10000 Prishtina 972815436

Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina 843627591

Prishtina Prishtina Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Slovenian Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 628574319 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00

Luxemburg 10000 Prishtina

Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 195362874

Austrian Danish Greek 14 734189652 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68

Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Address: "Nene Teresa" no. 2 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Swedish

Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina Prishtina Address: "Ekrem Rexha" no. 6 387241965 Prishtina

Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 Prishtina 251936748

German Malaysian Phone: +381 (0) 245 795 Dutch 469758123 Belgian Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina Swiss Velania, 10000 Prishtina 10000 Pristina Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11 Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 Medium

Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 Norwegian 10000 Prishtina Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 849623157

Finnish Italian 10000 Prishtina British 675148392 Address: "Eduard Lir" no. 50 Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Turkish

Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6

Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 231795846 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Saudia Arabian Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000

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Phone: +381 (0) 38 223 775 Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 Address: Dardania SU 7, building Prishtina 718462935

Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 2, #1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044

524389761

963571284 Easy Medium Hard 157836429 y| y

4138 957 87 396214578 482957613 36 8 92 5 26

Hard

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9743 97 15789 152749638 394281765 28 74 78 39 7 215476893

43 9 16298 876953142

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981 58946 541892376 56 7 623 5 32 689137254 By Visar Hapçiu • October 30 - November 12, 2009 15 in Prishtina Timeout Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected] Kosovo’s First International Theatre Festival marketing

The National Theatre in Prishtina is “This year, the festival has a certain organising six days of top class plays from theme, ritual and music, and all pieces across Europe as part of the inaugural contain one of those two elements. I hope Kosovo International Theatre Festival. the Kosovo public will have a good time.” The theme of this first edition is rituals This festival will serve as an opportuni- and music which has influenced directors ty to explore and give meaning to differ- and artists. ent musical forms and the art of singing, Kushtrim Hoxha, festival coordinator, organisers say. told Prishtina Insight: “The response was In addition, rituals, such as old songs very positive from foreign artists, even and folklore, will also be performed. though we had very little time to do the The festival features plays, incorporat- selection of theatre pieces. But we man- ing music and dance, from across Europe, aged to get some European theatre troops including Belgium, Austria, Ukraine, in Prishtina. and, of course, Kosovo. “I believe that this festival is definitely The Kosova International Theatre welcomed by Kosovo artists, and, believe Festival is held from November 2 to 8 and me, that every festival that brings a new is run under the auspices of the Ministry spirit is always welcomed. of Culture, Youth and Sports. “Prishtina is in need of new artistic For more information visit experience and I hope we have more festi- http://www.kitfestival.com/en/ and vals and other cultural activities in the check Prishtina Insight’s listings on this future. page.

Prishtina Diary

• October 30, 7PM (part of Kosova Cinema Pristina In Your Museum of Kosova- personal International Theater exhibition of Alketa Xhafa Festival) From October 28 to November 11, 2009, Pocket city guide “ana tjeter e vetes” • November 3, 8PM documentary enthusiasts will have the • October 30, around National Theater of Kosova- chance to see Michael Jackson’s THIS IS IT, 9PM a play “Project Eden” (part produced by Kenny Ortega. This world pre- Yourspace- Dj Flow; Valon of Kosova International miere reveals the events which led to On Drumz Theater Festival) Jackson’s unexpected death before the con- • October 31, 8PM • November 4, 8PM cert in London. Katra Cocktail Bar (Pejton National Theater of Kosova- street) – Halloween Dress Up a play “Screech Orchestra” Time: 14:00, 16:00, 18:00, 20:00, 22:00 Party Place: ABC Cinema, Prishtina (part of Kosova • October 31, 10PM Duration: 1h 51m. Flirt Club and DP group- International Theater SKILLZ, NORA ISTREFI , Festival) DJ BLUNT & REAL 1 • November 5, 6PM • October 31, around National Theater of Kosova- 9PM Performances of National Yourspace- Mega Halloween Ballet of Kosovo (part of Hip-Hop Night with: Dj Kosova International Goce, Dj Jungle and D- Theater Festival) Master • November 5, 8:PM • October 31, 8:30 PM National Theater of Kosova- Morena – Halloween a play “No Shadow” (part of Cocktail Party Kosova International Theater Festival) • October 31, 8:30 PM • November 6, 8PM Hard Rockers Club- Hallo- National Theater of Kosova- Jam (“Pumpkins and Horror a play “Rasa” (part of in Hard Rockers”) Kosova International • October 31, 10PM Theater Festival) The Dubliner Irish Pub- • November 7, 8PM Halloween Party with live National Theater of Kosova- music from “Asgje Sikur Dielli” a play “The Martin Couple” New issue for sale at • October 31, 10PM (part of Kosova Dukagjini and Dit e Nat DEEPO club- 8 hours session International Theater For more info tel. +38 649 173 447 with HendiKeps (Legoff and Festival) Uran B.) • November 7, 10PM • November 2, 8PM Yourspace- with special dj http://pristina.inyourpocket.com National Theater of Kosova- guest Mister Five (3 fee for a play “Rags of Memory” both male and female) 16 • October 30 - November 12, 2009 marketing