HOT DOGS: Etiquette from the Queen of Wien Herself, CHICAGO Janet Riley STYLE Iconic Chicago Chef Doug Sohn on Building His Cult Restaurant and the Perfect Dog

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An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes new york debunking tofu revolution vs. chicago the dog the hot dog’s evil Which dog is hotter? What’s inside? brother gets a makeover THE DOG DAYS June 2011 OF SUMMER 5 tIpS

for hot dog HOT DOGS: etIQUette froM the QUeeN of WIeN herSeLf, CHICAGO JANet rILeY STYLE Iconic Chicago chef doug Sohn on building his cult restaurant and the perfect dog

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Bush’s® Baked Beans and hot dogs.

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Prepared by: 79395_BBB_BU1-057.indd Southfi eld, MI • 248.354.9700 Saved at: 6-23-2011 5:56 PM From: swilde_G5_08710 by Sarah Wilde / Heather Yuhas Printed At 100% Job info Approvals Fonts Client BUSH BROTHERS & COMPANY Print Producer Hodge, Brent Fonts: Job # 11-03700-025 Account Mgr Tobin, Jessica Clarendon BT (Bold), Helvetica Neue (65 Prefi x 79395 Art Director Ward, Michael Medium), TT Slug (Regular) Trim 10.25” x 2” Copywriter Piechura, Craig Bleed 10.25” x 2” Traffi c Williams, Samantha Link Name: Live 10.25” x 2” Art Producer Lyons-Urbanek, Kathy 79395_BBB.tif (CMYK; 200 ppi; 100%) Line Screen 200 dpi Scale None Product Code 000 - Bush Brothers & Company Proof # 1 Used Swatches: Unit Newspaper Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Caption Bush’s baked beans... 2 · june 2011 An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes CHALLENGES tIp A reporter e-mailed me recently and asked what criteria to use in judging the best hot dog in his hometown. 1 WE RECOMMEND I chuckled because after 20 years in the business, doN’t tAKe More thAN 5 Barry Levenson BIteS to fINISh curator, national I’m continually amazed by the passion that the A hot dog mustard museum “who makes the best hot dog?” question can stir.

pAge 10 “civilized humans know that only mustard can bring out the full fl avor of a The “Queen of Wien” gets frank proper tube steak.” or Chicagoans, the family gathered. dog!” is what we shout when we’re answer is easy. It’s I grew up here in the days when happy, which we usually are with the hometown dog. we walked home from school for one in our hand. And when Perry It’s my hometown, lunch. Mom welcomed me with hot Como croons “Hot diggity, dog zig- too, which gives me a dogs simmering and Bozo’s Circus gity, boom what you do to me,” you THE DOG DAYS OF SUMMER special appreciation playing. I’d clutch that dog, hoping know the hot dog is more than a 1ST EDITION, JUNE 2011 for the gastronomical against hope that Ringmaster Ned just a food. publisher: Jessica Stanek feast we call a Chicago dog. An all would pull my name from his magic Hot dogs are also emblematic of [email protected] F Business developer: Brandon Hale beef hot dog. A steamed poppy seed drum and I could play the Grand the Chicago immigrant experience. [email protected] designer: Mariel Fitzgerald bun. Mustard. Onions. Sliced toma- Prize Game from home. When the Like so many of us, the hot dog is a mariel.fi [email protected] toes. Green (make that extra green) game was over, and my hot dog con- European import, brought by Ger- Managing director: Geraldine Delacuesta relish. Sport peppers. A dill pickle sumed, it was time to head back to mans and Austrians. Chicagoans [email protected] Janet M. riley editorial Manager: Jackie McDermott spear. And celery salt. It just doesn’t school after a kiss on the forehead. It president, national hot dog & sausage put a local twist on the dog when [email protected] council; AKA “the Queen of Wien” get any better than this. was a distinctly Chicago experience. hard times hit during the depres- contributors: Christy James, Bruce Times like these fi x our feelings sion, vendors added more toppings Kraig, Scott Ladany, Barry Levenson, Tim the meat of memories about food so that they run deep. to the dogs to attract more buyers Radway, Janet M. Riley Why do Chicagoans (and New York- There’s no question that hot dogs and the top-heavy wiener became distributed within: Chicago Sun-Times, June 2011 ers, and Atlantans and folks from run deep in the American soul. the Windy City’s signature food. This section was created by Mediaplanet Kansas City and elsewhere) feel so Americans consume an estimated Times are changing. Cuisine is and did not involve the Chicago Sun- strongly about their dogs? Because 20 billion hot dogs per year. They are changing. But Chicago holds its Times or its Editorial Departments. hot dogs are so strongly associated the top baseball food consumed in “times are hot dogs dear. When born and bred with memories. They are the stu of all major league ball parks except changing. Chicagoans like me return and memories. What are ours? Wrigley Milwaukee, where Cousin Sausage see the colorful images of Chicago Field. Sox Park. Da Bears games. Ven- wins. Even in the face of competi- cuisine is dogs along the streets, no words are dors shouting “Hot Dogs, Get your tion from new ballpark foods Amer- needed. That image says “Welcome FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK & TWITTER! changing. but www.facebook.com/MediaplanetUSA hot dogs” with an endearing Chi- icans are loyal to their dogs. Home.” Happy Hot Dog Month, Chi- www.twitter.com/MediaplanetUSA cago accent. Lakefront picnics. Trips chicago holds its cago. I raise a frank in tribute to you. mediaplanet’s business is to create new to the zoo. Bluesfest. A little league More than just a food hot dogs dear.” customers for our advertisers by providing game on a Spring evening. Our back- Hot dogs are part of our vocabulary, JANET M. RILEY readers with high-quality editorial content that motivates them to act. yard grills sizzling on a Sunday with our movies and our music. “Hot [email protected]

Game changer. ` 141530_a01_News Bowen Mcgarry 06/15/11 DB

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Proofreader E. Cooper 4 · june 2011 An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes INSPIRATION tIp Question: How did Hot Doug’s come to be known for some 2 of the best Chicago style hot dogs and some of the best, most doN’t pUt herBS oN the innovative options ever to grace a hot dog stand menu? SAMe pLAte AS A hot dog— Answer: By tasting Chicago style hot dogs at more than 40 thAt’S JUSt frANK-teNtIoUS local establishments, Doug Sohn knew exactly what to o er when he opened Hot Doug’s.

Doug Sohn and his journey to the perfect dog

HOW I MADE IT opened Hot Doug’s at a location in the restaurant.” and continues to explore his culinary Roscoe Village neighborhood of Chi- He reopened the now-classic range. “At the end of the day, to me it After graduating from culinary school, cago, and business quickly took o . Encased Meats Emporium in Avondale, has always been all about being sure to Doug Sohn was working as a cookbook and was once again hard at work sell- deliver the best Chicago style hot dog.” editor and trying to fi gure out his next A fire and a new location ing his wares. These range in diver- step. He and several coworkers, spurred The original Hot Doug’s location in sity from a Chicago style hot dog to toppings? Yes, please! on by a bad hot dog eating experience, Roscoe Village su ered a fi re by way a smoked crayfi sh sausage and pork Sohn believes that, “Food is so subjec- set out to try as many di erent hot dog of a freak accident in the building. sausage with shrimp remoulade and tive that any taste you like, will work establishments as possible to discern For a long time, Doug was not sure he caraway havarti cheese. on a hot dog. It really is the quintessen- who did the best dog. would reopen. “At fi rst, it was like ‘Oh Sohn has been lauded by numerous tial American food for customization.” After noticing himself so often great, we’re done, let’s go do something publications and television shows for saying, “I like what this place does, I else’,” Sohn jokes. “But then I received helping to bring a ordable gourmet doug Sohn think this could work but needs to be so many phone calls and emails, it was fast food to the people of Chicago. He tweaked,” Sohn decided to open his really humbling and eye opening to strives to keep fl ocks of the faithful TIM RADWAY own Chicago style hot dog stand. Sohn see how much people appreciated our as well as new customers interested, [email protected]

Try a Gramp’s Gourmet Jalapeno-Garlic Sour Dill Pickle on your favorite Chicago Hot Dog! It is our goal to create unique handcrafted foods that create memories of family, fun and simpler times.

We make a wide variety of both sour dill and sweet pickles in garlic, jalapeno, horseradish and habanero flavors.

Order our products online www.grampsgourmetfoods.com. Find us at a local Chicago area Farmer’s Market. Call us at 1-800-277-3135. An Independent supplement by Mediaplanet to chicago sun-times june 2011 · 5 INSPIRATION

the perfect dog Doug’s classic Chicago Style dog served up in its hometown. Photo: Roya Jade 6 · june 2011 An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes NEWS tIp A brief history of 3 dreSS the FOOD BLISS dog, Not the BUN Scott Ladany president, Red hot chicago hot dogs in Chicago What better way to absorb the Great Depression of the 1930s chicago’s history than by and especially after World War II ingesting the city’s most when many of Chicago’s stands Among Chicago’s food all-stars, iconic street food, the hot were established. Classic stands there’s really nothing that com- dog? Whether the subject is where hot dog styles range from pares to the Chicago-style all- chicago’s historic economy, older, more plainly dressed dogs, beef “red hot.” This up-from-the- its ethnic history, its culture, to fully loaded ones are scattered streets sandwich has done more all are tied to the hot dog. through the city and suburbs. than survive the test of time. For Jimmy’s on Grand Avenue and over a century, it’s been relished by Chicago was meat central when Gene and Jude’s on River Road are millions of fans, justly celebrated hot dogs appeared on the scene, as among the former, while Murphy’s for its interplay of great fl avors in Carl Sandburg’s famous phrase, on Belmont Ave is a classic of the and textures! That burst of juice “Hog butcher for the world, Tool latter. And we cannot forget the and smoky, garlicky aroma, min- maker, Stacker of wheat….” From original Maxwell Street Polish, gling on the tongue with smooth, nineteenth into the twentieth cen- introduced at Jim’s Original and crunchy and tangy toppings. turies, the city’s Union Stockyards the Express Grill on Union Street There are a thousand ways to processed a huge percentage of (close to their original sites) with dress a hot dog, but in Chicago the America’s meat and wheat. While great grilled onions. traditional, fully loaded, mouth- the well-to-do gorged on expensive To these typical styles, new watering combination is the clos- steaks, working class people ate “upscale” versions have appeared. est thing there is to food bliss. cheaper meat, literally, hot dogs The leader is Doug Sohn’s Hot In the world’s hot dog mecca, made from the scraps of meat pro- Doug’s on North California Ave. The the locals can’t even imagine duction. Americans of all classes Photo: IStoCKPhoto.CoM “encased meats emporium” serves summer without their frequent loved meat, and here it was for the ness, including sausages. Since they 1928), sport peppers (pickled mildly sausages made from venison, cray- visits to food heaven, their Chi- masses, wrapped in a wheat bun. did not eat pork, and beef from the hot small chilies), and tomato are fi sh and other interesting ingre- cago-style fi x. It’s encoded in their stockyards was abundant, they Mediterranean in origin, like a dients with many toppings more DNA, and as close to a food addic- the chicago dog emerges created the all-beef hot dog, still giardiniere. Mustard is German- familiar on fine dining menus. tion as you’re going to fi nd! And In the same period Chicago teemed Chicago’s preferred dog. If Jews cre- Jewish, as are the pickle spears and, More recently, Haute Dogs on Cly- their demand has ensured that with new immigrants. From the ated hot dogs, Greeks, Macedonians, optionally celery salt (this replaces bourn Ave and Chicago’s Dog House their delicious seasoned beef in a 1850s on, Germans, such as Oscar Bulgarians, Italians, and Mexicans a once ubiquitous vegetable on the on Fullerton street have joined the tube and nestled in a steamed bun Mayer’s (about 1873) came bearing dressed them. American table). The ensemble fi ne dining hot dog crowd. That the is always within reach, readily their own special foods-sausages In Chicago of 1900-1920s, Greek gives a sweet-sour-spicy fl avor pro- traditional street food hot dog has available in thousands of places and beer. They’ve been joined in and Italian competed in the fruit fi le that was dear to East European been transformed shows what has blanketing the Chicago area. American culture ever since. Then and vegetable market, and a good and Mediterranean taste buds. The happened to a city that is more a From our famous hot dog stands came East and South Europeans. number of them were street ven- Chicago hot dog is a literal palimp- business center than a gritty indus- to ballpark concessionaires and Most were poor, most ate street food, dors. Both invented many of the sest of early twentieth century Chi- trial powerhouse. backyard gatherings, Chicagoans and from them emerged the Chi- toppings on the Chicago hot dog, cago ethnicity. know that when the craving hits, cago hot dog. the classic “garden on a bun.” Green nothing but a red hot will do! Jews from rural villages quickly relish (Piccalilli-the fi rst mention evolution of the stand BRUCE KRAIG got into the street vending busi- is at a Cubs-Sox exhibition game of The style became popular during [email protected]

An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes june 2011 · 7 NEWS

TOFU REVOLUTION: THE VEGGIE DOG GETS A MAKEOVER

1 Sauerkraut Ah, the veggie dog. the low in calories and saturated fat, 1 3 hot dog’s evil brother, but they’re good for the planet. 4 2 Mustard shunned sausage of the Turtle Island Foods only uses soy barbeque and a sad option that has been extracted from a 3 Steamed onion for vegetarians and animal natural pressing technique, elimi- 2 empathizers alike. or is it? nating the use of the toxic air con- 4 tomato sauce taminant, hexane. No longer a gray mass of tofu, today’s veggie dog has been they’re fancy dressed up with toppings like If you’re really feeling adventur- mango chutney and vegan chili, ous, make a trip out to Puka Dog on options like corn dogs and Italian the island of Kauai. They’ve been sausage, and health benefi ts that dressing up their veggie dogs with will have you reaching for seconds. toppings like mango relish and VS. fresh banana for the past 10 years. NEW YORK CHICAGO they’re healthy But you don’t have to go that far for Opting for the vegetarian version of a little variety. Try a Morning Star your favorite brat could cut your cal- veggie corn dog, or top o a regular 1 onion orie intake in half. A regular Italian dog with a can of their vegan chili. 7 5 pork sausage can pack up to 300 cal- 2 relish 3 ories per link, with 200 of those calo- their history is debatable 4 ries from fat! Smart Sausages veg- While vegetarian sausages have 3 pickle 1 2 6 etarian option is only 140 calories been around since the early 20th per link, with 70 calories from fat. century, Worthington Foods 4 Sport peppers Craving a classic, ballpark-inspired claims to have introduced the frank instead? Tofurky’s original veggie hot dog in 1949. Their ori- 5 tomato dogs will set you back only 80 calo- gin may be undecided, but their ries per serving, leaving plenty of destination is certain: Into the 6 Mustard room for seconds… or thirds. hands and stomachs of millions of health-conscious Americans. 7 celery salt they’re environmentally Photo: IStoCKPhoto (toP), SoNIC (BottoM) friendly CHRISTY JAMES Not only are Tofurky’s veggie dogs [email protected] Debunking the dog: The USDA has specifi c rules people often ask if other anymore. Variety meats are per- parts of meat are used in hot “In order to be fectly wholesome, but they just dogs and here’s the answer. a hot dog, you aren’t commonly consumed by Americans, so hot dog makers don’t In order to be a hot dog, you must must start with commonly make hot dogs with start with meat or poultry. It’s part of meat or poultry. variety meats. the hot dog’s “standard of identity.” We add ice chips, seasonings like Variety meats like hearts or livers It’s part of the hot salt, pepper, cumin, paprika, garlic are technically permitted under the dog’s ‘standard and curing ingredients like sodium rules, but if they are used, hot dogs nitrite that give hot dogs a distinct must then be called “Hot dogs with of identity.’” fl avor and color and also help ensure variety meats” and on the ingredient their safety. statement, the package must indi- cate which variety meat was used. JANET M. RILEY I look at the hot dog case all the president, national hot dog time and it’s nearly impossible to & sausage council fi nd hot dogs with variety meats [email protected] 8 · june 2011 An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes NEWS tIp As we celebrate National hot dog Month this July, thousands of young fans will make an American 4 rite of passage and attend their fi rst ball game. NeVer USe CORN DOGS ARE fANcY chINA MORE THAN JUST AN for A hot dog AFTERTHOUGHT Baseball and hot dogs:

Photo: IStoCKPhoto.CoM Corn dogs were reportedly fi rst An American tradition invented by Neil Fletcher in 1942 for the Texas State Fair, and have Along with souvenir gloves bun, today’s dogs come in jumbo since become a state fair and car- and foam fingers, into their and foot long sizes, with chili and nival crowd favorite. eager young hands will go cheese toppings, and (in Cincin- The City Museum in St. Louis a piece of the 22,435,400 nati) wrapped in bacon and deep has a shrine to the corn dog, fea- hot dogs that are expected fried. They’re served wrapped in turing all time great Stan Musial to sell in Major League foil, and tossed from vendors in the using a corn dog as a bat and fea- Baseballs parks across the stands. They’ve been brought to turing former United States Vice country. life as mascots, and raced against President Dan Quayle and his sausages in the 6th inning at wife standing in front of a corn Even with expanding ballpark Miller Park. But while the outward dog stand. menus that include everything appearance of hot dogs may have The corn dog has become so from funnel cakes, to nachos and changed, the sentiment and tradi- popular since its inception that wings, the hot dog remains king. tion remains the same. it now even has its own day; You can’t think of baseball with- As hot dogs remain a fi xture in National Corndog Day is cel- out thinking of hot dogs, and you American ballparks, so do the expe- ebrated the fi rst Saturday of the can’t think of hot dogs without riences that go with them: That NCAA Men’s Basketball Tourney automatically thinking of baseball. fi rst game, the opening pitch, and a every year, a celebration which It’s a combination Americans have summertime tradition that’s been also includes beer and tator tots. been enjoying since the 1890’s, Photo: IStoCKPhoto.CoM passed on for generations. and it’s easy to see why. The low reaching for a foul ball, or holding tently the same, while at the same TIM RADWAY cost and easy handling of hot dogs on to a cold drink, a hot dog won’t time constantly evolving. [email protected] make them the perfect snack for get in your way. They’re our con- Once sold out of a simple push CHRISTY JAMES a crowded venue. Whether you’re stant ballpark companion. Consis- cart and offered up without a [email protected] Serving great sides to complement a dog

Millions of hot dogs are stars that jump to the forefront Those that prefer to go with salad might almost be as virulent as containers at the end of the evening. consumed each year in the including appetizing baked beans, something on the cool side often opt the debate over which side is best Whichever side dish is preferred U.S.—and the side options potato and pasta salads, and even for potato or pasta salad, however with the hot dog! at summer cookouts this summer, it are just as numerous. the occasional macaroni and cheese. once in the realm of these salads, While there are too many options can be almost guaranteed that any Baked beans have long been the there are quite separate factions as to mention, macaroni and cheese summer cookout is guaranteeing Think about a typical summer cook- go to side dish at summer hot dog to how to prepare and most impor- deﬁ nitely has its place in the sum- a delicious spread and good times out; the most important food is cookouts, so much so that Bush’s tantly dress these salads. The debate mer cookout side dish conversa- with friends and family. there, the hot dog, but which sides Baked Beans now produces variet- ranges from mayonnaise based tion. It is in many ways a great and are available and which ones will ies known speciﬁ cally as “Grillin dressings to mustard based dress- delicious o ering with nearly any best compliment the deliciously Beans”. Some people even go so far ings to store bought versus home- meal throughout the year, as its ver- grilled hot dogs? While there are as to put the baked beans directly on made. In fact, the debates over how satility and likability across all age TIM RADWAY numerous options, there are a few their dog as an additional topping. to come up with your potato or pasta groups helps it avoid the leftover [email protected] T:10.25”

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Prepared by: 79345_BBB_BU1-056.indd Southfi eld, MI • 248.354.9700 Saved at: 6-20-2011 4:50 PM From: bpowell_G5_06681 by Beth Powell / Heather Yuhas Printed At 100% Job info Approvals Fonts Client BUSH BROTHERS & COMPANY Print Producer Hodge, Brent Fonts: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Job # 11-03700-025 Account Mgr Sayger, Jennifer Helvetica Neue (65 Medium), Clarendon BT Prefi x 79345 Art Director Ward, Michael (Bold), Helvetica (Medium) Trim 10.25” x 11.5” Copywriter Piechura, Craig Bleed 10.25” x 11.5” Traffi c Williams, Samantha Link Name: Live 10.25” x 11.5” Art Producer Lyons-Urbanek, Kathy 79345_BU1-056.tif (CMYK; 300 ppi; 100%), Line Screen 200 dpi Scale None GWL_10_Facebook_icon.eps, BBB_11_twit- Product Code 000 - Bush Brothers & Company Proof # 2 ter_newbird_4C.eps Unit Newspaper Caption Bush’s baked beans... Used Swatches: 10 · june 2011 An Independent supplement by medIAplAnet to chIcAgo sun-tImes

tIp INSIGHT 5 “the traditional chicago way.” NeVer, eVer A HOT DOG WITHOUT pUt KetchUp MUSTARD? NEVER! oN A hot dog rahm emanuel As curator of the National Mustard mayor of chicago Museum, I am, of course, com- frank Klopas pletely unbiased on this subject. head coach, chicago Fire But seriously, would you even con- sider adorning a classic Chicago “I was once a hot dog dog with any other condiment? simpleton before moving to There is the question of that unfortunate crimson substance. chicago. however, I now like “tomatoes, mustard Dirty Harry, in Sudden Impact, my dog loaded with everything and pickles.” said it best: “Nobody puts k****p on it. hold the sport peppers, on a hot dog.” While twelve- I’m a wimp. I often eat 3 in a Nathan rzeppa year-old boys and other simi- detroit origins with chicago taste buds standard sitting.” larly deranged individuals may desecrate their dogs with that wretched red substance, civilized humans know that only mustard can bring out the full fl avor of a proper tube steak. The condiment of choice for a fi ne frankfurter is mustard, the golden sauce that provides both WHAT’S ON a pleasing eyeful and a tangy mouthful of pleasure. As you sit down for the fi rst pitch, hoist your wiener to the sky and revel in the sparkle of yellow against the YOUR DOG? backdrop of blue sky, green grass, and dusty brown infi eld. Heaven! Here at the Mustard Museum we serve hot dog and bratwurst “my favorite topping on a hot dog is sliders. You can have any condi- slowly becoming a mustard Relish ment you want. So long as it’s “I eat a veggie we are currently making at bangers. mustard. With more than 400 dif- dog with onions, As far as a sausage goes, being from ferent mustards to choose from, so close to Wisconsin, I have to go that’s never a problem. relish, mustard and top it off with whole grain mustard and a ton The National Mustard Museum in Adam Wendt of grilled onions on a beer bratwurst.” Middleton, Wisconsin, is open daily with a pickle.” chef, bangers and lace from 10 to 5. By city ordinance, k****p Jenna Stanek is not allowed within three hundred saving lives with every bite yards of the building. 800-438-6878; mustardmuseum.com.

Barry Levenson curator, national mustard museum MADE WITH 100% BEEF. No Artificial Colors or Flavors. No By-Products. No MSG Added.

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