Chapter Three: THE NON-NATIVE PRESENCE

The first contacts between the Nuu-chah-nulth and suggests that Barkley Sound had a population of outsiders occurred north of the study area, outside over 8500 people, as the Spanish had estimated Nootka Sound. An initial brief encounter with a that Clayoquot Sound was home to about that Spanish vessel under the command of Juan Pérez number (Wagner 1933:145–6). The map produced in 1774 was followed four years later by the arrival by the 1791 expedition (B.C. Archives, Maps and month-long stay of Captain James Cook. This Collection CM/A1414; see McMillan 1999:189) event was to have major repercussions all along shows the general outline of the sound with the the Northwest Coast. The discovery that the soft two major clusters of islands. Five Nuu-chah-nulth brown sea otter pelts obtained from the Nuu-chah- villages were noted on the map, with the only one nulth could be exchanged for enormous profits in the Broken Group clearly being the village of in China led to an influx of trading vessels along Huumuuwa on Effingham Island. No settlement the west coast. For a few brief decades, until the was indicated for Benson Island. inevitable depletion of the sea otter populations, In 1793 Captain Josiah Roberts arrived in the the Nuu-chah-nulth were in frequent contact with Jefferson and began trading, visiting a number of European and American traders. During this time villages throughout the sound. The shipʼs crew they acquired great quantities of European goods, wintered over near the head of Toquart Bay, on with those of metal being particularly in demand. the western side of the sound in Toquaht territory. European discovery and exploration of Bar- An unpublished journal kept by the first officer, kley Sound occurred during this early period of Bernard Magee, describes trade interactions with the maritime fur trade. Captain Charles William the Nuu-chah-nulth of the region. Relations were Barkley in the British trading vessel Imperial often strained, and at one point thefts from the Eagle sailed into the sound in 1787. He named the ship led to violent retribution, as the crew of the sound after himself, and a number of prominent Jefferson attacked the village of “Seshart,” where landmarks, such as Cape Beale, after members of they ransacked the houses and took several of the his shipʼs company. His anchorage was off Effing- best canoes, apparently killing several people in ham Island, which he called Village Island because the process (Magee 1794; Inglis and Haggarty of the presence of a large Native settlement (Huu- 1986:46). “Seshart” (an early rendering of muuwa; Fig. 10:5). Effingham (still known locally Tsʼishaa7ath, or Tseshaht) may refer to a village as Village) Island is one of the outer islands of the along modern Sechart Channel, which would be Broken Group, only a short distance from Benson near the Jeffersonʼs anchorage, but as this would Island. In the following year, Captain John Meares have been prior to the amalgamations which led to in the Felice Adventurer sailed into the sound to Tseshaht dominance over this area it seems unlikely trade for furs and anchored near the same village. that any such village would have had that name at The American trader Robert Gray, in the vessel this early time. Also, Mageeʼs reference to traveling Washington, also arrived off the Broken Group six miles from the ship to the village would place in 1788 and traded with the Nuu-chah-nulth, who this incident in the outer Broken Group. It seems came out to his ship in several canoes. In the fol- likely that “Seshart” refers to the village of Tsʼishaa, lowing year he entered the sound and noted two which would be our only early historic reference to villages, although his journal does not specify their this major Tseshaht community. locations (Inglis and Haggarty 1986: 29). The next ship to arrive was the Ruby, under The Spanish, under the command of Don Captain Charles Bishop, in 1795. It sailed into Francisco Eliza, explored the coast south from the western portion of the sound, probably into their fortified settlement in Nootka Sound. In 1791, Ucluelet Inlet, to trade. By this time the fur trade José Maria Narvaez, commander of the vessel was in decline, as the sea otter had been hunted Santa Saturnina, was sent to explore and map Bar- to near extinction along this part of the coast. kley Sound, which the Spanish termed the “Boca There is no record of another European trading de Carrasco” (Wagner 1933: 146). The Spanish ship arriving until 1817, when the French vessel officers noted that this was the most densely occu- Le Bordelais, under command of M. Camille de pied region that they had encountered, stating that Roquefeuil, sailed into the eastern channel of the it “contained more Indians than Nuca [Nootka] and sound. With the exception of this last encounter, Clayocuat [Clayoquot]” (Wagner 1933:149). This the Nuu-chah-nulth of Barkley Sound had minimal

34 contact with outsiders for about half a century fol- Blenkinsop or OʼReilly visits and the land was lowing the brief flurry of activity in the maritime not assigned as a Tseshaht reserve, allowing title fur trade. to pass to non-Native owners. A resumption of trade was brought about in the Ownership of Benson Island has changed hands 1850s by the demand for dogfish oil, which was several times over the past century. The land of required for lubrication by the developing lumber what was then called Hawkins Island was first mills in the Fraser Valley and Puget Sound. A alienated in 1893 by John Webb Benson, who number of trading schooners, primarily American, completed the purchase of the island (for the grand called into Barkley Sound to trade for dogfish sum of $33) in 1903 (Wallbank 1991). Benson oil, which the Nuu-chah-nulth were industriously built a hotel on the site of Himayis (Fig. 18) and catching and processing in large quantities. Dried had fruit trees and a garden, along with a meadow salmon and fur seal hides were also traded for for his oxen, on what is today the open area of European goods during this time (Scott 1972: 75). Tsʼishaa. He lived on the island until his death in European settlement in Barkley Sound pro- 1913. Somewhat later the Colonist newspaper in ceeded slowly. By 1860 the first trading post had Victoria reported that Hawkins [Benson] Island: been established by Captain Stuart at Ucluelet “Had a hotel that was well worth visiting. There (Inglis and Haggarty 1986: 62). The 1861 chart were about ten acres cleared and a portion of it was of Barkley Sound prepared by Captain Richards, planted in garden and orchard to supply the hotel. a Royal Navy surveyor, shows five trading posts, The island and hotel are owned by Mrs. Benson, including two in the Ucluelet area and one on widow of an old-time sealing captain and one of Gilbert Island, in the Broken Group (Scott 1972: the early pioneers of the West Coast of Vancouver 73). Other short-lived commercial enterprises in Island” (Scott 1972: 198). the sound include a fishing station at Effingham Despite Bensonʼs occupation of the island, the Island in the Broken Group and a copper mine on Tseshaht continued to make occasional use of their Tzartus (Copper) Island in the Deer Group, both traditional home. The surveyorsʼ notes and map established in the 1860s. prepared for Bensonʼs 1903 purchase indicate sev- After British Columbia entered Canadian eral “Indian houses” at the western end of Tsʼishaa, confederation in 1871, attention turned to the as well as an “Indian shack” at Himayis. These aboriginal land issue. In 1874 Dr. Israel Powell, would have been temporary shelters, rather than the newly-appointed Superintendent of Indian the large multi-family structures that once stood Affairs, sent George Blenkinsop to Barkley at the site. They were still being used at the time Sound to gather information on Nuu-chah-nulth Benson was there, according to Wallbank (1991: land use and their preferences for reserves. By 1), which may account for their location at the far this time the Tseshaht were primarily resident western edge of Tsʼishaa, as far removed from along the Somass River in the Alberni Valley, Bensonʼs home and gardens as possible. although Hiikwis on Sechart Channel was noted By 1920 the island belonged to Judge Alfred as their winter village and several sites in the Clarke, who spent his summers there. Judge Clarke Broken Group, such as Huumuuwa, were being hired Delmont and Elizabeth Buck, who lived used as fishing stations (Blenkinsop 1874). In on the island year-round with their family, to be 1882, Peter OʼReilly, the reserve commissioner, caretakers of the hotel and farm. Buck built a barn visited each of the Barkley Sound groups and al- for the cow and horse sent out by the judge, plus located reserves. He assigned the Tseshaht a total small structures for pigs, chickens, and rabbits of nine reserves, with by far the largest being on (Wallbank 1991: 6). Concern about their children the lower Somass River, where most of the band in this isolated location, however, led the Bucks to resided (OʼReilly 1883). Of the remaining eight move to Alberni in 1922. In 1937 ownership of the reserves, two are on Alberni Inlet (one, however, island passed to Judge Clarkeʼs son, Hugh Clarke. was sold early in the twentieth century), three After Clarke failed to pay the taxes on the land, (including Hiikwis) are on the upper shores of Benson Island was purchased at auction by Kyle Barkley Sound, and three are in the Broken W. Kendall in 1955 (Wallbank 1991: 8). The final Group islands. The latter consist of Huumuuwa private owner of the island was William Garden of on Village Island, Kakmakmlh on Keith Island, Seattle, who purchased it in 1962 and constructed and Tlʼihuuwa on Nettle Island. The Benson a small summer home there. The hotel had been Island sites of Tsʼishaa and Himayis do not ap- dismantled and had largely disappeared by that pear to have been occupied during either the time. Only a few minor traces remain today of the

35 Figure 18. The Benson home and hotel constructed on the site of Himayis. buildings constructed by these late occupants of Group, with their scenic beauty and abundance the island. of wildlife, became a favoured destination for an Finally, in 1975, the island was purchased by increasing number of boaters and kayakers. On the Crown as part of the newly-declared Pacific Benson Island, the open area of Tsʼishaa became Rim National Park Reserve. All the islands of the a campground for these visitors, one of a limited Broken Group were included as one of the three number of such facilities within the Broken Group. units of the Park, the others being the Long Beach Part of the recent co-operative initiative between area (northwest of Barkley Sound) and the west the Tseshaht and Parks Canada involves plans to coast lifesaving trail (southeast of Barkley Sound). relocate campsites from Tsʼishaa and other major Cabins and other traces of recent occupation were village sites to locations of less archaeological sig- systematically removed by Park employees to nificance, as well as to increase visitor awareness enhance the “wilderness” experience for Park of the importance and vulnerable nature of these visitors. The sheltered waterways of the Broken heritage sites.

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