Italy - the Sorrento Peninsula
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Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Naturetrek Tour Report 14 – 23 April 2010 Hazel Dormouse - Muscardinus avellanarius Orchis pauciflora Naturetrek Group 2010 Lunar Double-stripe Moth Report and images compiled by Paul Harmes and Dave Nevitt Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 England 0NG T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Leaders: Paul Harmes (Naturetrek Botanist) Dave Nevitt (Naturetrek Ornithologist) Participants: Barbara Bowden Cathy Brown Sara Corall Lorraine Ellison Richard Ellison Marylin Kavanagh Bill Kavanagh Ann Le Sage-Crinland John Matthews Jennifer Rae Kim Taylor Barbara Vickers Penny Waite Dennis Waite Janet Wickham Paul Wickham Day 1 Wednesday 14th April Fine warm and sunny with some cloud Sixteen tour members met with Paul and Dave at Gatwick Airport's North Terminal for our British Airways flight to Naples. After arriving in the city we soon collected our luggage and made our way into the arrivals hall. Here, Paul and Dave completed the formalities for hiring of the mini-buses, before we set off for the shuttle to take us to the parking area. Once the vehicles were loaded, we set off for Sorrento where our route took us past the imposing Mount Vesuvius on our left and the beautiful Bay of Naples on the right. We left the motorway at Castellmare di Stabia, and turned onto the busy, but scenic coastal road, entering the first of three long tunnels which cut through the mountain. Emerging, we were soon enjoying the views of the Bay of Sorrento, including the islands of Capri and Ischia, and the rugged coastline. We made a short roadside stop at the Punta Gradelle, over-looking Meta di Sorrento, Santa Agnello and Sorrento. Here, we saw Euphorbia dendroides (Tree Spurge), Antirrhinum siculum (a Snapdragon) and Erodium malacoides (Mallow-leaved Stork's-bill). Overhead were Yellow-legged Gulls, Raven, a posse of Alpine Swifts and a Black Redstart. Continuing on through the busy evening traffic, we soon arrived at the Hotel Dania, our base for the week. We were welcomed by our host, Annamaria, who quickly settled us into our rooms. We met again at 19-00hrs, when Paul and Dave outlined the week’s itinerary, before sitting down to dinner. © Naturetrek July 10 1 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report Day 2 Thursday 15th April Cloudy with light rain, heavy at times. Becoming brighter later An early, pre-breakfast walk in the vicinity of the hotel produced several Serin, a singing Nightingale, a purring Turtle Dove and northward migrating Marsh Harrier and Honey Buzzard. Today we travelled the relatively short distance south of Capo to the town of Termini, where we parked the vehicles. Our plan was to walk the track from the town to the old lighthouse at Punta Campanella. The Mediterranean flora was very much in evidence here, and it was not long before we were beginning to identify an array of species. The early part of the track near the town, descended through olive groves, market gardens and woodland, and then into more open “Garrigue” scrubland nearer the lighthouse. An early sighting was an obliging Wood Warbler, which was feeding in a large Populus x canadensis (Hybrid Black Poplar). Whilst watching it one of the group members spotted some movement in a small Elm tree. This turned out to be a Hazel Dormouse, a first for many of us. A little further on we found the endemic Lithodora rosmarinifolium (Rosemary-leaved Gromwell) and very close by we found Ophrys araneola (an Early Spider Orchid) and Orchis italica (Naked Man Orchid). Between the showers, it soon became obvious that there was a considerable bird migration going on. Fair weather in North Africa had encouraged migrants to set off, then a static frontal system directly above us with associated rain caused them to temporarily stop on the land - Woodchat Shrike, Subalpine Warblers, Whitethroats and Pied Flycatchers were soon spotted amongst the small fields, as well as a putative Semi-collared Flycatcher. With regard to botanical interest, the Pea family was particularly well represented, with Trifolium stellatum (Starry Clover), Lotus creticus (Southern Bird’s-foot Trefoil), Anthyllis barba-jovis (Jupiter's Beard), Lathyrus clymenum, Tetragonolobus purpureus (Asparagus Pea), Coronilla scorpioides (Annual Scorpion Vetch) and Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca (Scorpion Senna) all recorded. We also had some brief sightings of Bottle-nosed Dolphins moving majestically along the lower face of the cliffs. While enjoying our picnic lunch at the old lighthouse, we saw Alpine Swifts before heavy rain brought down many Ashy-headed Wagtails, Tree Pipits and several Northern Wheatears. As we began to retrace our steps, we found Plantago arenaria (Branched Plantain) and Pyrus amygdaloides (Almond-leaved Pear). By now the rain began to ease off, and the migrant birdlife started to feed and show itself. This was a truly special day as every bush seemed to have a flycatcher or warbler in it, resulting in totals of 30 Pied Flycatcher, 2 Collared Flycatcher, 10 Whinchat, 4 Common Redstart, a Spectacled Warbler and 40 Wood Warbler. A newly-arrived exhausted Eleonora’s Falcon was admired by the whole group as it sat on a hilltop bush to dry out. Speckled Wood, Red Admiral and Painted Lady were also seen in the sun. When we reached Termini, we stopped for well-earned refreshments at a local cafe, before beginning our homeward journey. Day 3 Friday 16th April Cloudy and bright with some sunshine After breakfast we were soon heading northeast through Sorrento and on up to Seiano, where we turned right and began to climb into the Lattari Mountains. We made our first stop on a roadside just north of the village of Alberi. 2 © Naturetrek July 10 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report Here we explored the verges and adjacent woodland, finding Aristolochia pallida (a Birthwort), Orchis provincialis (Provence Orchid), Cytisus villosus (Hairy Broom) and Orchis intacta (Dense-flowered Orchid). Serin, Italian House Sparrow and several soaring Common Buzzards were recorded and a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker sang from the olive groves. Continuing up through the villages of Alora and Prezzano, we reached Moiana. Here we turned right and began to climb more steeply towards Monte Faito, our destination for the day. This is one of the summits which dominate the Latteri range, over 1200m high. From here we had stunning views across the Bay of Naples to Vesuvius. On the drive up, a Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush flew across the road but sadly did not stay around to be admired. Our walk took us on a gentle incline through open rocky grassland and Pinus nigra subsp. nigra (Black Pine) / Alnus incana (Italian Alder) open woodland. As a result of its altitude, Mt Faito has a very alpine feel to it, and the flora confirms this. Scilla bifolia (Alpine Squill), Crocus vernus (Spring Crocus) and Arabis caucasicus subsp. alpinus (Alpine Rock-cress) were all present. Birds included several very obliging Marsh Tits, 30 Alpine Swifts, Pied Flycatcher, another Eleonora's Falcon and a passing Black Kite. Firecrests were singing all around us but were frustratingly difficult to see. Orange-tip Butterflies were also present. The path, which leads to the church of St. Michele, took us past a splendid rocky outcrop overlooking the valley below. Here we set up our picnic. Along the way we added the very attractive endemic Viola eugeniae (a Violet) and carpets of delicate blue or white Anemone apennina (Blue Anemone). Marylin was very fortunate to come face-to-face with a resting Quail just a few feet from the path. After lunch, we turned around and made our way back along the ridge the way that we had come, noting some more good plants including Hornungia petraea (Hutchensia), and many plants of Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore). A Pied Flycatcher entertained us with its food gathering antics, before we rejoined our vehicles. We dropped down to a local restaurant for afternoon refreshments. At this point a dark phase Booted Eagle was spotted as we enjoyed our drinks and ice-creams and up to five Italian Wall Lizards kept us entertained with their hide-and-seek antics. Some two hundred metres below this point we made a short stop to see Orchis pauciflora (Sparse-flowered Orchid), Euphorbia spinosa (Spiny Spurge), and Orchis papilionacea (Pink Butterfly Orchid). We were also lucky enough to add Peregrine Falcon, Lesser Kestrel and a splendid pair of Lanner Falcon as well as Wall Brown and Clouded Yellow Butterflies. From here we began our return journey back to the hotel, but not before we made a last roadside stop between Moiana and Prezzano where we found Cyclamen repandum (Spring Sowbread), Arabis rosea (Pink Rock-cress) and Symphytum bulbosum (Bulbous Comfrey). Day 4 Saturday 17th April Fine and bright with some Cloud After breakfast we were soon heading north for a morning visit to the extensive ruins of the Roman city of Pompeii, situated ominously beneath Mount Vesuvius, which had destroyed it in the eruption of 79AD. After parking the buses, we made our way to the entrance where, to our surprise, entrance was free for this week only. Maps and guides were obtained before we set off. © Naturetrek July 10 3 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report All group members made their own way around the archaeological site, reporting a number of species of birds and plants. These included Tree Sparrows, several Hoopoes, Greenfinch, Hooded Crows and the omnipresent Serins and Sardinian Warblers. A particular botanical highlight for several members was the splendid display of Serapias lingua (Tongue Orchid) on a grass bank in the amphitheatre.