JUNE 13/14 2020

We have a Canthe technology crisis help problem us fix it? By TimHarford

@FTMag

5 Simon Kuper Whythe US risksanewepidemic of violence 6 Inventory Oyinkan Braithwaite,author 8 Tech World Robostrop: is it OK to terminate amenacing android? 10 Robert Shrimsley The it-will-do-for-nowGreat British haircut 10 Letters

12 Canthe pandemic revitaliseinnovation? Incentivise invention,takeadvantage of catastrophe and neverforgetthe simple

KEY solution: the historyoftechnology has OS much to teach us about howtofightour

MCCL current crisis. TimHarford reports RICK 20 Thereinvention of Ed Miliband ‘Gas wascheap,timesweregreat and the boulevard The former Labour leader is back on his hummed with lifeduring the evenings’ party’sfront bench –older,wiser butas convinced as ever that capitalism needs to Rick McCloskey on California car culture, p30 change.Can he makeanimpact? He speaks to George Parker and Jim Pickard

26 Observations: the greatdebaters Novelists Sally Rooneyand Ben Lerner both emerged from the arena of competitive debating –ashave many of our politicians. But, asks LouStoppard,how doestheir training shape the world we livein?

30 VanNuysnights In the early 1970s, VanNuys Boulevard in an LA suburb wasthe place to hang out and show off your ride. RickMcCloskey’s photographs capture the spirit of anewly mobile generation

34 Bunker Food Chef Judy Joo recalls making Hugh Hefner’s favourite dish 37 Jancis Robinson California’snew-wave wines 39 Fantasydinner parties Isabel Berwick devisesher perfect picnic 40 Honey&Co Three Italianrecipesthatrecreate a perfect afternoon in abusytrattoria near Florence’s Ponte Vecchio

‘The publicdiscovered 45 Games Ihad apersonality’ 46 ElaineMoore Lessons from lockdown: we all Ed Miliband, p20 need some face-to-face time

Issue number 874•Online ft.com/magazine•Editorial inquiries020 7873 3282 •Advertisinginquiries020 7873 3121 •FTWeekend Magazine is printed by the Walstead Group ‘The asparagus starter in the UK and published by The Financial TimesLtd, Bracken House,1Friday Street, London EC4M 9BT wassotender youcould ©The FinancialTimesLtd 2020 •Nopartofthismagazine maybereproduced in anyform without theprior express eatitwith aspoon’ permission of the publisher Honey&Co on recreating restaurant memories, p40 Coverillustration by Vanessa Branchi

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 3

iolencespreadslikeavirus.Ifsome- theyare effectivelylicensedtokill –especially, it onewithCovid-19coughsnearyou, seems,ifthe victims areAfrican-American. the disease can enter your lungs. Slutkin doesn’tpropose abolishing the police And if someone commits violence force. He just favours shrinking it.Evenliberal against you, or in your presence, NewYork Citypours $6bn ayear of taxpayer violent tendenciescan enter your dollars into its police department,“morethan… brain. That’swhy violence, likea on health, homelessness,youth development virus,often appears in clusters. and workforce development combined”,says One killing generatesothers,just the NGOPublic Citizen. YetUSpolice officers are as one person with Covid-19 can constantlydealingwithpeopleafflictedbymental start achain of infections.The best health problems,homelessness,drug addictions V waytostop contagion is to inter- or poverty so extreme theycan’t paya$50 fine. rupt it early: trace, isolate and prevent spread. That was Gary Slutkin’s insight when he returnedtothe US in 1995 after 10 years in ‘US policedeal with people Africa combating tuberculosis,cholera and Aids. afflictedbyaseries of problems. The epidemiologist and doctor nowleadsCure SIMON ViolenceGlobal,anNGO. CVGemploys “violence Theywalk in like untrained interrupters”who find people at risk of commit- social workerswithguns’ ting violence and deter them beforetheyact. Its work has sharplyreducedviolence in parts of NewYork, Baltimore, Mexico,Honduras and Police walk into these situations likeuntrained elsewhere, according to evaluations by Johns social workers with guns.Public health experts KUPER Hopkins University,John JayCollege, Arizona and criminologists have beensaying this for dec- State University and others. ades, with almost no impactonpolitical debate OPENING SHOT If violence is contagious,then certain conclu- –until, perhaps,now. sionsfollow. First,police arriving afterviolence US streets,TVand incendiary social media happens aren’t much use. In fact, theyoften haverecentlybeensaturatedwithviolence.Police Whythe US spread violence, by introducing their own. attack protesters with pepper spray, tear gas and Second, anew nationwide epidemic of violence batons,while aminority of protesterscommits risks anew nowthreatens an armedand dividedUS. violence too. The national soundtrack is Trump, Slutkin arguesthat contagion operatesinall talking like asuper-spreaderofviolence:“When epidemic types of violence, whether gang,domestic, polit- thelooting starts,the shooting starts.” ical or mass shootings. “If youhaveexperienced Making things worse is the epidemic of mis- violence,youaredozenstohundredsoftimesmore informationthataccompaniesmost epidemics of violence likelytodoit,”hesays.The risk is dose-depend- (including Covid-19). Forinstance, the White ent: “Your likelihood of doing violence depends House’s Twitter account shared avideomontage on your amount of exposuretoit.”Sometimes of pilesofbricks stashedonstreets,supposedly violence is instantlyinfectious: one mangets prepared for protesters by Antifa and “profes- killed, and his friends kill the killer.Sometimes sional anarchists”. In fact, the bricks (many of violence infectsovergenerations: afather beats thematconstructionsites)predatedtheprotests. his son, who later beats his own. Poverty helps Slutkin has worked in enough fragile countries breed violence, as it does Covid. However,social to seepredictors of violence in the US: elitesare circumstancesaren’tdeterminant,says Slutkin. divided,whilemanypeople’s health,incomesand The main cause of violence is violence. status have declined. He says these factors breed It often originatesinpetty,resolvable disputes: violence just as dirty water breedsdisease. one man flirts with another’sgirlfriend, oweshim Then thereare the upcoming US elections. moneyordisrespects him. CVG’sinterrupters – Electoral violence is often ethnic, as in Kenya many of them ex-gang members who knowtheir in 2007-08. Trump was elected president stig- neighbourhoods–sniff out these quarrels.They matising Hispanics and Muslims.This time, his visit the wrongedman in hospital if he’s beenshot scapegoats might be African-Americans or the and spend hours talking him out of violence, per- Chinese. “It’salso very rarethat the Jews aren’t in haps finding him job training or drug treatment. the blame mix,”adds Slutkin. Sometimesthey’ll be summonedbyamother Theremay benothingtoworryabout.Perhaps worriedthat her son is loading guns in the cellar. the armedprotesters who occupiedMichigan The interruptersalso train people to change statehouselastmonthwon’treappear.Everything their behaviour.This is something public health could go swimminglyinNovember.IfTrump does well, says Slutkin:wear amask, wear a loses, hemaygraciouslyhandpowertoJoeBiden. condom, learn to get overaquarrel instead of However,CVG is preparing for trouble. It is train- letting it escalate. ing ordinary citizens nationwide as violence Police in the US often actasspreaders of vio- interrupters.We’ve learnt this year that it’sbest lence. No wonder,because theyare exposedtoit to catch epidemics early. daily. Itmayalsobethatpeopleinfectedbyviolence while young areattractedtoaprofession in which [email protected] @KuperSimon

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 ILLUSTRATION BY HARRYHAYSOM 5 Oyinkan Braithwaite, 32, wonthe What’syour biggest extravagance? 2019 AnthonyAward forbestfirst Laptop,iPadand phone.Other than novelfor My Sister,the SerialKiller, that,the costs add up for my books, whichwas also shortlistedfor the clothing and all things art-related. Women’s Prize for Fictionand In what place areyou happiest? longlisted for the BookerPrize. My room. On my bed. What ambitions do youstillhave? What wasyour childhood Iwould liketocreate an animated or earliest ambition? series. Iwould alsoliketowrite In primaryschool,wewereasked more books andput together afew what we wantedtobewhenwegrew encyclopedias.Thereissomuch up.Iwrote thatIwantedtobean about Nigeriathat Idon’t know–for author and an interior designer,and example,wehavesomanytribes also work part-time in Toys RUs. hereand Iamonlyfamiliarwith a Privateschool or stateschool? handful of them. But it is difficult Universityorstraight intowork? to find information on the subject Iwent to three primaryschools that is easy to digest; so Ifigured andthree secondary schools,some creating encyclopediaswould be a were private, some state. Ichanged waytoeducate myself and make the schools so muchbecause my family informationaccessible. andImovedbetweenNigeriaand What drives youon? England. In the English schools, The desiretobebetter than I Iwas awallflower for the most part. was yesterday. In the Nigerianschools,thoughI What is the greatest achievement wasstill thequiet girl who liked to of your life so far? read, Istood out more. Iwas even Basedonsuccess, My Sister, theSerial appointed social prefect, which Killer.But Ithink in reality, it would no one could makehead nor tail have beenthe first novelthat Iwas of.But thatwas the least of the able to complete.And, perhaps in differences. The facilities,teaching 2018,when my sister and Iwere styles, disciplinary measures – privileged to teachkids howtoread. sometimes Ifeelasthough Ihave What do youfind most liveddifferent lives. Iwent to two irritating in otherpeople? universities. Idropped out of the Duplicity.Also, people who want to first,and finishedfromKingston go out all the time areexhausting. University [inthe UK], whereIread If your 20-year-old self could see creative writingand law. younow,whatwould she think? Whowas or still is your mentor? “Damn!” My family andfriends. My dad is Which object that you’ve lost INVENTORY abig ideasman and my mother do youwish youstill had? OYINKANBRAITHWAITE,AUTHOR neversits still, she is always doing Thereare storiesIwrote and something,learningsomething. lost because Ithought theywere Ihavefriends who work extremely terrible. I’ve learnt not to throw hard forthemselvesand their any idea away. families. My fiancé is oneofthe What is the greatest most disciplinedpeopleIhavemet. challengeofour time? They all inspireme. Social media. Forall its benefits, Howphysicallyfitare you? our worth is nowmeasured Iliketosleep alot;Iwish sleeping by follows,retweets and likes, wasexercise. However,inrecent and it has createdanunhealthy times, Ihavebeenmaking an effort competitiveness.Also, nothing to exercise for at least 30 minutes is sacredany more. Everything aday,asitisexpensive buyingnew can and will be performed for clothesevery fewmonths. the camera. ‘I’ve learnt not to Ambition or talent: which Do youbelieve in an afterlife? mattersmoretosuccess? Yes, Ido. Ambition.Ifyou arewilling to do If youhad to rateyour satisfaction throwany idea away thework, you’ll achieve your goals. with your life so far,out of 10, Howpoliticallycommitted what would youscore? areyou? Nine. –I’veloststories Ivote, butIbelieve Icould do more. I’moftenashamedofhow ignorant Interview by Hester Lacey. Iamofthings goingonaround me. “MySister,the Serial Killer”by because Ithought What would youliketoown that Oyinkan Braithwaite (Atlantic

youdon’t currentlypossess? Books)isshortlistedfor the ID Floor-to-ceiling bookcaseswitha BritishBook Awards Crime & SA slidingladder. Thriller Book of the Year they were terrible’ AMAAL

6 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020

“autonomous security patrol and T E C H disinfection robot”. Thepromotional video releasedbyPatoro’smakers shows what aversatile little tyke W O R L D it is: one moment silentlygliding through office corridors,the next BY LEOLEWIS IN TOKYO escorting schoolchildren home afterdark, itsonce-cute goggly eyes narrowedand alert to the “suspicious people”itspots with its 360-degree heat-sensitive cameras. At onepoint,ajust-robbed shopkeeperorders aPatorotogive chase at atop speed of 20kph, its Robostrop: is it paint-gundischarging roundafter roundofordnance at its fleeing OK to terminate a target. ForCovid times, Patoro menacing android? has beenrepurposedtosquirt disinfectant instead. Thisisthe machine that I have beenwondering about imagine having to confront– thesolidity of my legal position not because Ienvisage turning if Ihad just smashed arobot criminal,but becauseIsee post- Ito pieces.Itwould not have pandemic streets teeming with the beenapremeditatedattack,you likes of Patoroand oneofthem understand,but Idoalreadyknow going berserk. If it were threatening my victim’s name. me or achild, whatlevel of violence This lockdown feverdream would be coveredbyaself-defence is another philosophical gift of argument? Afirm,debilitating slap Covid-19 and thehypotheticals it or aparts-mangling rain of blows? continuestocreate.Many long- The first part of this scenario has term changeshavebeensuggested beenpored overbylawyers and as part of thenew worldthe virus government officials as theyhave will establish.And Japan has attemptedtoestablishwhere the jumped on this brand of futurology criminal or civil liabilitieswould with relish. ILLUSTRATION BY PÂTÉ lie (with the softwareprogrammer, Give achild ahammer,says component supplier or final AbrahamKaplan’s Lawofthe vendor)ifarobot caused harm.The Instrument,and they will discover consistent theme is that at no point that everythingneedstobe should it be arguedthe robothas pounded. Give Japan acrisis,and agencybeyond its creators. its engineers will seeitasthe great Very much less attentionhas breakthroughmoment for robots. Clearly, thereare huge parts of ‘Into Japan’s bionic beauty beenpaid to therighttoself- This happens alot:fromnatural the manufacturing,logisticsand parade has rolled Patoro– defence and whether,for example, disasters to the slow-burning services sectors wherethis is true. it would be equivalent to the challengesofageing and population The rise of dull, barelyvisible the “autonomous security laws covering the treatment of decline, Japanese companies robots is inexorable and probably patrol and disinfection dangerous animals,given that arealways first out of the blocks nowaccelerated by events.Ina robot”… and what a robots arenot,inthe eyes of the to identify pivotal moments in recent research note,Nomura versatile little tykeitis’ law, alive. robo-evolution.Often, thereare highlightedthe likelihood that Acalltothe justice ministry thrilling prototypes to go with the the Covid-19 crisis would drive for clarification elicitsagiggle and predictions.Moreoften, thereare along-term boominsalesof a“no comment” from its press admissions that,while these demo industrial dishwasher machines, office. Acall to the police in Tokyo’s models arepushingtechnological aproduct at both the most Shakujii districtdraws amore frontiers, theinteresting ones that prosaic and profitable end of the practical answer: “It depends on make wittyconversation while on automation spectrum. the situation,”says theduty officer. atempletour of Kyoto or cook a But on themoreshowbizzy “If Iharm adog that attacks my full English breakfast arenot quite side, life under thepandemicis kid, Imightbeaccusedofcrueltyto readyfor real-worldaction. agianttrade fair for peddlers animals or destruction of property. The corona-crisis,with its of robotbartenders,burger- In case of arobotthreateninglife, underlying message thatsafety cooks,fruit-pickers and cleaners it might be OK. But if Ibeat the liesinlowering human-to-human –many of them unnecessarily shit out of it,Iwould be accused of contact, hassent this into overdrive. anthropomorphisedand many destroying property.” In aCovid-endemic world, the robot operating at unacceptably low proselytisers claim that businesses speeds. Into this bionic beauty Leo Lewis is the FT’s must automate to survive. parade hasrolledPatoro –the Tokyocorrespondent

8 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020

ROBERTSHRIMSLEY THE NATIONAL CONVERSATION Reply

The it-will-do-for-now Re:Guy Chazan’s “How Germany gotcoronavirusright” (June 6/7). GreatBritish haircut As many suspected, the decentralisednatureofthe health am not altogether surewhat system was key. Anyone who has the Great Britishhaircut is worked as amanagerwill know but apparentlythereisone. that if you give real responsibility IBorisJohnsondeployedthe to the local experts,you will get phrasewhileansweringquestions amoreefficientresponseand about when hairdressers might stronger buy-in from the team on be free to trim the tressesofour theground. Of course, the higher increasinglyshaggysociety. authoritieshavetorelinquish He hoped it would not be too some powerand therewill be no long beforehewas able to “unleash uniformityinthe approach.That theGreat British haircut”.This, tends to be what frightenstop- Ihavetobehonest,isafairly levelmanagement butthe best troubling image, calling to mind managers (as Angela Merkel’s Mr Burns in TheSimpsons telling government,nodoubt,is) his aide to “release the hounds”. ILLUSTRATIONBYLUCAS VARELA understand that high-levelcontrol “Unleash the haircut” conjuresup is an illusion to be relinquished. imagesofBritons being chased Nouv via FT.com down thehigh streetbyaferocious My hair is notmybestfeature, preparedtojoin theheroes of mullet.Are thereheroes of the but the competition is not fierce. the Great British haircut –the haircut? The CoiffeurofAgincourt? Ihad, with typicalorganisational CrimperofCrécy,the Stylist @lilycogan June 6 TheBarberofBlenheim? flair,failedtoconsider the issue of Trafalgar –and takemyplace Excellent article explaining It is averyJohnsonian tickto aheadoflockdown. It soon began amongthem.Atfirst,Iseemed Germany’slow death rate from #COVID19. Comprehensive stick the phrase “Great British” to oppressme. Somemen can to struggle; large amountswere bottom

national testing &tracing; gov ck beforealmost any noun. Ihave rock long hair.Iamnot among coming off but no good shapewas led by Angela Merkel, aphysicist; Ro )=

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looks likeeither,Britishornot.Isa it would be hard to insist on the to declarethat Ihad givenmyself Shrimsley’s “Drive-in cinemas: ids ith Great British haircut very expensive spawn sociallydistancingwith a“side mullet”.Isensedfromher theone good thingtocome out of AM ,w om anddeliveredbyaNicky Clarkeor their friends when their father tone that this was notagood thing. allthis?”,June6/7). Modern cars Sir (fr To

aVidal Sassoon, or is it very cheap was engagedincovert crimpery. Thecriticismstung because she don’t quite do it: steamy windows. 5. andthe work of Colin the Barber? But first Ineeded aset of had previously clipped theback of If youtry to leave the ignition on ottom +B Shalott

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such establishment in Shepherd’s one –but onlywith the shortest for the phenomenon of crop circles. youbecomedistracted. Notquite ck” The Ro Bush. I’mnot sureitwas great, settings. Iwanted somethingthat Nonetheless,Ienlistedher help paradise by the dashboardlights. 4. “The but it was ahaircut, it was definitely would not leave me looking likean with the back,eventhough her Creebank via FT.com ame ne eD

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calledColin. last week, apackage from China boy’shair blue. Re GillianTett’s“When teargas 3. a uiz

So,all things considered,Iought arrived. Naturally, Iwas nervous. Through luck and trepidation, comestoTikTok” (June 6/7). eq garit to have beenone of the least Conservative MPshavewarned the thing just about worked out. Ihad the same experience –my tur Mar troubledbythe thought of ahome of the risks of buying Chinese. The fiddlybitsweresolvedthrough daughter’sInstagram was full Pic and er Doctor haircut, although the lasttime What if Beijingwas wirelessly the cunningexpedient of combing of Black LivesMatterwhile my st

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apudding bowl and asudden dash After watching tutorials on it is great,but it will do.Myhair about Dominic Cummings.We emantle 2. Fr u”

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down. On social media Isaw many Icould seethe back of my head, about 15. In other words,it’saGreat way. I’mproud of their desire .“ s1 of my acquaintancesmaking merry though mainlyIjust sawmyear. British haircut. to changethe world –and now House title the

with theclippers.Twitter was And so,withthe most forgiving they have the ability to connect of sonal er repletewithmiddle-aged men with setting,Ibegantoshear.The [email protected] andsupport one another. ther Fa sp buzzcuts.And yet, still Ihesitated. clippers buzzedintolifeand I @robertshrimsley Avs1 via FT.com . wa s9 d’ nk i l or .L The n8 rs

Catch up on recent interviews on the CultureCallpodcast,including: To contribute ea we

Please email [email protected] sD psychotherapist Esther Perel,chef SaminNosrat,podcaster IraGlass, Slave Play ns

adaytime telephone number and full address za (not forpublication). Letters maybeedited. Jame 7. author Jeremy OHarris and cartoonist Liana Finck; ft.com/culture-call Qui

10 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 Delivering luxury...

Canthe pandemic eendthe great

Incentivise invention, take advantage of catastrophe and never forget the simple solution: TimHarford on whythe historyof technology has muchtoteach us about howtofight our current innovation slowdown? crisis –and transform our future. Illustrations by VanessaBranchi

13 Pasteur was born. Having solvedthe problem, Monsieur Appert dulyclaimedhis reward. ‘Scientificand Thisisbyno meansthe onlyexample of an innovation prize,apolicytoolthat has waxed and technological wanedoverthe years.The most famous was the 1714 Longitude Prize, for solving the problem of progress hasbeen how far east or west a ship was. The Royal Society for the encouragement of Arts,Manufactures and sputtering fora Commerce, the RSA, also awardedprizesonafre- quent basis,often for safety measures that were while. The2010-19 regardedasunprofitable but sociallyvaluable. Anton Howes, author of Arts and Minds,ahistory of theRSA,reckons that the society awardedmore decade of T than 2,000 innovation prizesbetweenthe mid- 1700s andthe mid-1800s.Some were “bounties”, productivity growth he worldhas atechnologyproblem. ad hoc recognition for good ideas; many, however, By that,Imean that we currentlylackthe tech- were classic innovation prizeslikethat awarded in theUKwas the nologytodeal with the coronavirus pandemic. to Appert,whichpose an important problem and We don’thaveacheap,easy, self-administeredtest. promisetoreward the personwho solvesit. lowest forthe past We lack effective medicines. Above all, we don’t Nowadays such prizesare out of fashion. Gov- have avaccine. ernments tend to favour acombination of direct couple of centuries’ ButIalso mean something vaguer and moredif- support forresearchers and the awardofanintel- fuse.Wehaveatechnologyproblem in thesense lectualmonopoly, in the form of apatent,tothose that scientific and technologicalprogresshas been who develop original ideas. But just likethe inno- sputtering for awhile. That is evident in the data. vations the RSArewarded, rapid vaccines canbe The 2010-19 decade of productivity growth in the unprofitable but sociallyvaluable. UK was the lowest for the pastcouple of centuries, So agroup of the world’sleading economists andcoronaviruscan take no blamefor that. believesthat if we aretomaximise the chances If productivity statistics do not speak to your of producing that vital coronavirus vaccine at the poetic soul,gointo your kitchen and look around. speed and scale thatisrequired, we need to bring You’ll seelittle therethat youcouldn’t have seen innovation prizesback in abig way. This team, 50 years ago.The same couldnot be saidof, say, known as “Accelerating Health Technologies”, the 50 years between1920and 1970.Orponder includesSusan Athey, the first woman to win the air travel, if youcan remember what that is like. prestigious John BatesClark medal, and Michael Between1920and 1970,wewent from aviatorgog- Kremer, aNobel laureate. glesand fabric-coveredbiplanestothe Boeing 747 “Whoever discovers the vaccine first is goingto andConcorde.Not onlyhavewefailedtosurgefor- get such abig hug,” jokedthe Financial Timescar- ward since then, one couldevenargue that we’ve toonist Banx. It’ssafe to saythat theywould get gone backward. Givenhow much we keep being much morethan that,but would theyget enough? told about the disruptive pace of innovation and Major pharmaceutical companieshavebeen theboundless creativity of Silicon Valley, the real- scarred by earlier experiences, wheretheysank ity is both surprising and disappointing. moneyinto vaccinesfor diseasessuch as Zika or After several years pondering the history of Sars,orin 2009 rushedtofulfil large orders for flu inventions and inventors,Iwondered whether vaccines, onlytofind that demand hadebbed. thesetwo problems might shedlight on each other The problemisthat most vaccine research pro- –whatcanwelearnfromthepandemicabouttech- grammesdonot produce successfulvaccines,and nology, and what does thehistoryoftechnology so companies–understandably–try to keep a teach us about the pandemic? lid on their spending untilone is proventowork. Anthony Fauci, director of theUS’sNational Insti- Gettheincentivesright tute of Allergyand Infectious Diseases, lamented the problem in February: “Companiesthat have In 1795,the French government offered aprizeof the skill to be able to do it arenot going to just sit 12,000 francs for inventing amethodofpreserving around and have awarmfacility,ready to go for food.NapoleonBonapartewasanambitiousgeneral whenyouneedit,” hetoldanAspenInstitutepanel. when the prizewas announced. By the time it was We needtheleadingvaccinecontenderstoinvest awarded, he was France’s emperor, and twoyears vastlymoreintrials andproduction than theynor- away from his disastrous invasion of Russia.Napo- mallywould, even thoughmuch of that investment leon mayormay not have said: “Anarmy marches will ultimatelybewasted. And of course, they on itsstomach,”but he was keen to broaden his sol- alreadyare investing more–uptoapoint.That diers’provisionsfromsmoked andsaltedmeat. is partlyanact of good corporate citizenship and One of the hopefuls who triedhis hand at win- partlyinresponsetosubsidiesfromgovernmentsor ningtheprizewasNicolasAppert,aParisiangrocer theGates Foundation.But it maynot be sufficient. and confectioner creditedwith the development After all, thecost of failure will be bornemainly of the stock cubeand –lessplausibly –the recipe by the companiesinvolved, while the benefits of for chicken Kiev. Through trial and error,Appert success will be enjoyedbyall of us: the IMF esti- found if youput cooked food in aglass jar,plunged matesthe benefits aremorethan $10bnfor every Nicolas Appertdeveloped afood the jar into boiling water and then sealeditwith daythat widespread vaccine delivery is hastened. preservation technique to win aprize wax,thefoodwouldkeep–allthiswasbeforeLouis Any inducement the rest of us canoffer might be ▶ offered by the French government in 1795

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◀ money well spent.SoAthey,Kremer and their sextoysare broadcasting overthe internet –hun- ‘The simplest colleagues have proposedakindofprize calledan dredsofbillionsofRFID tags remain abackbone of “advancedmarket commitment”, apromise to buy our attempts to makethe physical world legible to technologies –such hundredsofmillions of dosesofavaccine forapre- computers.That is not becausethe tag is sophisti- mium price. This is not an untriedidea.In2004, cated, but because it is simpleand cheap –amore as soap andgloves, Kremer andRachel Glennerster,the currentchief powerful,flexibleversionofthe barcode thatdoes economistoftheUK’sDepartmentforInternational little morethan nodtoapassing RFID scanner and and, it seems Development,proposedtheconceptofanadvanced say, “right here,rightnow,this is me”. market commitment (AMC). In 2010,donors TheUSagentswhoexaminedtheThingforbugs increasingly likely, promised$1.5bn as an AMCfor apneumococcal did not understand its potential to do them harm. vaccineforlow-incomecountries;this dramatically It seemedtoo simple, tooprimitive,tomatter. acceleratedthe rollout of successful vaccinesand And Iworry that we often makethe same mis- clothmasks–have savedhundredsofthousands of lives. But the AMC take. When we thinkabout technology, we think is reallyjust asophisticatedvariant on the innova- of the flashy,sophisticatedstuff. We overlook the provedinvaluable tionprizesofthe 18thand 19th centuries, such as cheap and the simple. We celebrate the printing the one claimedbyNicolas Appert. pressthat producedthe Gutenberg Bibles, but not andmuch-missed Incentivesare not the onlything that matter – the paper that many of those Bibleswereprinted butmattertheydo. Ifwewantasolutionthatbadly, on. Alongside paper and the RFID tag,place the when in short weshouldn’thesitatetocommittorewardingthose brick, the postage stamp and, for that matter,the who produce it.Itisnot such aleap fromfoodpres- humble tin can: inventions that aretransforma- supply’ ervation to avaccine. tive notbecause theyare complicatedbut because theyare simple. Don’toverlook We should remember the same lesson when it whatseemssimple comestothe innovations that fuelpublic health. The simplest technologies–such as soap and On August 41945, as the US and USSR were gloves,and, it seems increasinglylikely, cloth manoeuvringfor position in apost-war world, a masks –haveprovedinvaluable, and aremuch- groupofboysfromthe Young Pioneer Organisa- missedwhen in short supply. tion of theSoviet Union made acharming gesture And those arejust the obvious technologies. of friendship.Atthe US embassyinMoscow, they The UK and the US stumbledintheir efforts to presentedalarge, hand-carvedceremonial seal of scale up testing in the crucial earlyweeks of the the United StatesofAmericatoAverell Harriman, epidemic. It will takepost-pandemic inquiries the US ambassador.Itwas later to become known to establish exactlywhy –and incompetence is simplyas“the Thing”. clearlyoneexplanation–butreportershighlighted Harriman’s office checked the heavy wooden ashortage of the chemical reagents necessary to ornament for signs of abug but concludedthat, conductthe test,the protectivegear needed to with neither wires nor batteries, it coulddono shield the medical staff and even somethingas harm. Harriman mounted theThingproudly on simple as cotton swabs. thewallofhis study. Fromthere, it betrayedhis Evennow,itistooeasytodismiss the potential private conversations for the next sevenyears. of trulycheap and simple testing. The economist Eventually, aBritish radio operator stumbled PaulRomer,anotherNobelmemorialprizewinner, upon the US ambassador’sconversations being argues that if everyone in acountry could be tested broadcast overthe airwaves. These broadcasts twiceamonth –the equivalent,inthe UK, of more were unpredictable: scan the embassyfor radio than four million tests aday –that should provide emissions,and no bug was in evidence. It took yet enoughinformationtosuppresstheviruswhenever more time to discoverthe secret.The listening therewas an outbreak. That is avast leap beyond device was inside the Thing. And it was so subtle, ourcurrenttestingcapacity–butthebenefitscould so simple, as to have proved almost undetectable. beenormous.Imagineareliabletestthatwascheap The Thing had beendesigned–under duressin and self-administered,likeapregnancy test or a aSoviet prison camp –bynone other than Léon thermometer.Highlysophisticatedisgood, but Theremin,famous even then forhis eponymous being cheap has asophistication of its own. musical instrument.Inside it was little morethan Contacttracing is another simple but vital an antenna attachedtoacavity withasilverdia- approach. An age-old ideathat requireslittle more phragm overit, serving as amicrophone. There than aphone,anotebookand asmall army of per- were no batteriesorany other source of power. sistent and diplomatic people,itwas abandonedin The Thing didn’t need them. It wasactivatedby the UK for the three gravestmonths of the crisis, radio wavesbeamedatthe US embassybythe apparently on the basis that thearmyhad yettobe Soviets,atwhich point it would broadcast back, recruitedand sothetracingsystemcouldcopewith using the energyofthe incoming signal. Switch off no morethan fivenew casesaweek. Since the lock- that signal and it would go silent. downwaseased,wehavewelloverathousandaday. Theremin’sThing pioneered aprinciple that is Then thereare theeverydaylogistical miracles nowusedall around us in Radio FrequencyIden- made possible by other simple inventions, the bar- tificationTags. These RFID tagsare embeddedin code and the shipping container.Nobodycares library books,clothing labels,creditcards,pass- about logistics until things go wrong.Ithas been ports,tollgate passesand even the tagsattached to remarkabletoseehowresilientretailsupplychains In 1945,the US ambassador in Moscow, Averell theears of cattle. Forall the excitement about “the have been in the face of the most extraordinary Harriman, waspresented with agiftthat hid a InternetofThings”–inwhichyourphone,yourcar, disruption.Atatimewhenmuchoftheworld’spop- listening device that went undetected foryears your toaster,yourfridge and perhaps even your ulation was told not to venturebeyond theirown

16 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 front doors,wesaw little morethan abrief awk- wardness in sourcing flour,pasta and toilet paper. But it has not beensostraightforwardto duplicatethisfeatwhenitcomestotesting.Embar- rassedbythe earlydeficiency, theUKgovernment set ambitious targets.Ministers then claimedto hit them, first by including testing kits that had merelybeenpostedout,and then by bragging about “capacity”.Meanwhile, the government simplystopped reporting howmany people had beentestedatall. The logistics of conducting,or evencounting,thetestsprovedchallengingenough thatfor the purposesofmeetingtargets,logistical problems were simplyassumed away. In our desperation to develop high-tech solu- tions such as drugs or contact-tracing apps,there isariskthatweignore thesimpletechnologiesthat canachieve alot.AsAverell Harriman discovered, it is amistaketooverlook technologiesthatseem toosimpletomatter. Manufacturingmatterstoo Thereismoretoinnovation than agoodidea. The food-preserving “Appertisation”technology didnot stay in France for long –itmigrated across the ChanneltoseekLondon’s entrepreneurialism and venturecapital, allowing production to scale up.(This was atime when the British were,evi- dently, nottooproudtoborrowagoodideafromthe French.)Appert himself was also trying to expand his operations. He investedhis prize moneyina food-preservation factory,onlytosee it destroyed by invading Prussianand Austrianarmies. Ideas matter,but factoriesmattertoo. Factoriesare likelytoprove equallyfateful forvaccine production. Developing asuccessful vaccine is far morethan just amanufacturing problem, but manufacturing is undoubtedlythe kindofchallengethatkeepsexpertsawakeatnight. GES The candidate vaccinesare sufficientlydifferent MA

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FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 17 18 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 ◀ AlexTabarrok, another member of the team, merelytoreplace steamengineswith electric ‘There is no added:“Bill Gatesisdoing the right thing but even motors.Thecapabilitiesofthosenewmotorscould Gatescan’t do it all. Governments areacting too onlybeusedfullyifthe factorieswereredesigned. guarantee that a slowly. Every week that we delay avaccine costs Whilereplacingalargesteamenginewithalarge us billions.” electric motor had achievedverylittle, electric crisis always brings Athey, Kremer,Tabarrok and the rest of the motors could be efficient at asmaller scale. That team behind the Advanced Market Commitment meant that each worker could have a small motor freshideas; proposal want to supplement it with generous attheirbench.Wirescouldreplacedriveshafts;fac- 85 percent subsidiesfor the immediate construc- tories could spread out into lighter,airier spaces; sometimesa tion of vaccine factories. The calculation hereis theflow of productcould be optimised, ratherthan that firms arethe bestjudgesoftheir ownpros- beingconstrainedbyproximitytothepowersource. pects.Afirm with amarginalvaccinewill not build ButafascinatingpartofDavid’sargumentisthat catastropheisjust much capacity,evenwith an 85 percent subsidy. allthiswascatalysedbyacrisis.After1914,workers But anyone with adecent chance at producing a became moreexpensive thanks to aseriesofnew acatastrophe.Still, vaccine will seethe prize on offer,and the subsi- laws that limited immigration into the US from a dies, and start building factoriesatonce. war-tornEurope.Manufacturingwagessoaredand thereisnoshortage On theprinciple of not overlooking whatseems hiring workers became moreabout quality,and simple,eventhe most sophisticatedvaccinesrely less aboutquantity. It was worth investingintrain- of examples for on ingredients that areall tooeasytotakefor ing–andbettertrainedworkerswerebetterplaced granted. Consider the supplyofglass vials.Sev- tousetheautonomythatelectricitygavethem.The when necessity eral dosescan be includedinasingle vial, but that recruitment problemsparkedbythe immigration still suggests ademand for hundredsofmillionsof restrictionshelpedtosparknewthinkingaboutthe them if asuccessful vaccine is made. The vaccine designofthe American factoryfloor. provedthe mother industryisusedtooperatingatscalebutthiswould Some of the modern parallelsare obvious.We be somethingnew: vaccinessimply aren’t givento have had email, internet andaffordable computers of invention’ everyone in the worldall at once. for years –and morerecently, video-conferencing. Or perhaps the hold-up won’t be the glass, but Yetuntilthe crisis hit,wehad beenslowtoexplore something else. JamesRobinson, avaccine man- online education, virtual meetings or telemedi- ufacturingexpert,toldthe sciencewriter Maggie cine. 3D printing and other agile manufacturing Koerth: “A vaccine manufacturer… might source techniqueshavemovedfrombeing curiositiesto severalthousandingredientstomakeavaccine.But life-saving ways to meet the new demand for med- each materialiscoming from factories withhun- ical equipment.Weare quicklylearning new ways dredsofsources, andthosesources have sources.” to work from adistancebecause suddenlywehave Forexample,GlaxoSmithKline usesanextract hadnochoice.Andwearelearningaboutresilience. from the soap-bark tree to produce avaccine- There is no guarantee that acrisis always brings enhancing ingredient calledanadjuvant;for some freshideas;sometimesacatastropheisjustacatas- of the vaccinesnow in development,the adjuvant trophe. Still, thereisnoshortage of examplesfor mayenhance their effectivenessormakeacertain when necessity provedthe mother of invention, quantity stretch to moredoses. As Koerth noted, sometimesmanytimes over. however,the bark is harvestedinPeru,Chile and The Economist points to the case of Karl von Bolivia during the summer monthsofthe southern Drais,whoinventedanearlymodelofthebicyclein hemisphere.Last year’scropwas harvestedbefore theshadowof“theyearwithoutasummer”–when thecoronavirushadbecomeahouseholdname;this in 1816 European harvests were devastated by the year’sharvestwill not begin until November. after-effects of the gargantuaneruption of Mount TamborainIndonesia.Horseswerestarvedofoats; Disruptioncanhelp vonDrais’s“mechanical horse”needed no food. Itisagoodexample.Butonemightequallypoint It hasn’t justbeenthe past few decadesinwhich to infant formulaand beefextract,both developed apparentlyremarkable technologieshavemade by Justusvon Liebig in response to the horrifying an underwhelming impression on the productiv- hunger he had witnessedinGermany as ateen- ity figures. Consider the history of electrification ager in 1816.Or, if we aretorecogniseart as well as in American factories. In the 1890s,the poten- science,thereisMaryShelley’s masterpieceFrank- tial for electricity seemedclear.Thomas Edison enstein,written that same rainy summer beside and Joseph Swan independentlyinventedusable Lake Geneva; the creature’sisolation mirrors that light bulbs in the late 1870s.In1881,Edisonbuilt of thestarving peasants she saw, begging for food. electricity-generating stations at Pearl Streetin One crisis maylead to many creative responses. Manhattan andHolborninLondon.Thingsmoved The same maybetrue of this pandemic. quickly:within ayear, he wasselling electricity as Disruptions –evencalamitous ones–haveaway acommodity; ayear later,the firstelectric motors of bulldozing vestedinterests and tearing up cosy were used to drive manufacturingmachinery. assumptions, joltingpeople and organisations out Yetby1900,lessthan 5per cent of mechani- of the status quo. cal drive powerinUSfactorieswas coming from It is just possible that futuregenerations will electric motors.Most factorieswerestill in the age point to 2020 as the year the innovation slowdown of steam. This was because when manufacturers ended.Eveneconomistsneedtobeabletohope. replacedlarge steam engineswith large electric Withinafew yearsofdeveloping a motors,theyweredisappointedwith the results. TimHarford’snew book is “The Next FiftyThings usable light bulb in 1879,Thomas Edison I’ve writtenabout the work of economic histo- that Made the Modern Economy” (Bridge Street wasselling electricity as acommodity rian Paul Davidbefore. He argueditwasn’t enough Press), from which parts of this article areadapted

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 19 Thereinvention of Ed Miliband

The formerLabour leader has returned to his party’sfront bench: older,more relaxed and as convinced as ever about the need for profoundeconomic reform and agreen revolution. George Parker and Jim Pickard on an unlikely comeback. Portraits by Charlie Bibby

20 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 21 Ed Miliband (right), dMiliband is back, but jokey,sprinkling our conversa- then minister forthe he admits some people tion with expletives. “What kind of Cabinet Office and will be wondering: why? fucking question is that?” he expos- DuchyofLancaster, The man who beat his tulates at one point. with his brother David, then foreign elder brother in the most “It feels strange howmuch eve- Efamous episode of polit- secretary, outside rything has changed,”says Abby 10 Downing St in June ical fratricide in British history, Tomlinson, who startedthe 2007,after attending then ledthe Labour party to cata- “Milifandom”movement to counter Gordon Brown’sfirst strophicelection defeat,helpfully his portrayalinthe media in 2015, cabinet meeting suggests howour interview to dis- when she was asixth-form student cusshisreturntothefrontlinemight (fittingly, she nowworks in com- be framed: “Relic or relevant? That munications). “Now people seehim couldbeyourheadline!” as someone who is up for alaugh, Five years in thepolitical wil- who can makeajoke. He’s got good, derness have sharpenedMiliband’s intelligent ideas and has awealth of appetite. Restored to Labour’stop knowledge and experience.” team, the man dubbed “Red Ed” by But is that reallyenough for Mili- the tabloids has beenhandedthe job band’ssecond coming to have a of designing the party’sfuturefor a significant impact? post-Covid British economy,witha brief covering business and climate AMilibandrenaissanceofanykind change.Miliband, 50,insists the seemedhighlyimprobable in May world is averydifferent place from 2015, when he resignedasLabour that harrowing night in 2015 when leader after takingthe partytoadis- he left the political stage in despair. astrous defeat that incurred anet “Reforming capitalism is tough and loss of seats on just 30 percent of the thereisbig resistance to it,” he says. vote.“Iwasmildlydisappointed,”he “But Ithink the mood haschanged.” says withanironic smile. “OK, Iwas He contends that while the finan- pretty devastated. It was also,Ifelt, cial crash was an insufficient trigger devastating for the country.” for fundamental change, the social In his placethe party picked angst exposedbyBrexit and the fra- thefar-left rank outsider Jeremy gility of aglobalsystem laid bareby Corbyn, aconsequenceinpart of thecoronavirus crisis have trans- adecision Miliband made to allow formedthe politicallandscape. He is grassroots members moresay over convincedthat Britainisnow ready the choice of leader.AsLabour to embrace his vision of an active headeddeeperinto its ideological state working in “partnership”with –and electorallybarren –comfort the private sector and driving a zone,Milibandwentofftoseefriends greenrevolution. “The notion that in Australia,growing abeard and the state just getsout of the wayand reflectingonhis failure. thatwillthenmakeforsuccess–that He takes little comfort from the has beenburiedbythis crisis,” he factthatafterhesteppeddown,Con- says.“We’ve seen the state and busi- servative leaders TheresaMay and ‘Reforming ness working together necessarily.” Boris Johnson movedontoLabour’s Perceptions of Milibandhave turf to adopt some of his policies, also undergone atransformation including an energyprice cap and capitalism is tough in the past few years.Headmits moreactivestate intervention, the pressures of the Labour leader- higher public spendingand regional ship turnedhim into something of activism. “Vindication doesn’tdo andthere’s big an automaton. He was widelypor- much for me,”hesays. trayedasahapless figureapparently Corbyn famouslyresponded to unable to eat abacon sandwich and his decisive election defeat last year resistance to it.But whose ideaofagoodstunt was to by claiming he had“wonthe argu- carveaseriesofpledgesontoa9ft ment” but Miliband is not about to slab of lime, gleefullydubbed the followsuit.“Itakeresponsibility for Ithink themood “EdStone”bythe media. havinglost that [2015] election,” he But today, in avideo interview says.“The notion that the showwas from his north London home, he great but the audience was pooris haschanged’ is animated, self-deprecating and not one that Isubscribeto. Ithink

22 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 that Iwasn’t bold enough… [that] broadcaster Geoff Lloyd,Miliband therewas moreofanappetite for launchedthe Reasons to be Cheerful ‘The notion that change than Iperhaps realised.” podcast,anaffable look at political Instead, he pursuedasoft- ideas,onwhich he owns amade- left agendapromisingtotakeon up dog called“Chutney”,and even thestate just gets economic “predators”, to rein in pri- burstintoarenditionof“We All vatisedmonopoliesandtoundertake Stand Together” by PaulMcCart- some limitedredistribution. He was ney&The FrogChorus.According out of theway unable to dent the central message to Miliband, thepodcastpullsin of David Cameron’s Conservative 60,000-80,000 listenersaweek. party thatthe country needed more Other offers startedtocome hasbeenburied austeritytosort out the mess left by in from unlikelyplaces,Miliband the financial crash, or to expose the recalls,includingaproposedreality- danger posedtothe economy by TVshowwhere“youhadtogetfitand by this crisis’ Cameron’s pledge of aBrexit referen- then showyour fit bod”. He turned dum, apolicyopposedbyLabour. that down, along with opportunities “Therewas modest social dem- to appear on other shows suchas ocratic reform, which is essentially Drive, Dancing on Ice and –hearchly what Iwas offering,versus the notes–the “after-show”party on I’m gambleofthe European referen- aCelebrity.“Oh, and CelebrityBake dum,”hesays.“Apaper likethe FT Off.” As he reels off the list, Miliband preferred the gamble and Ithink soundsrelievedthat the public quite alot of business preferred the eventuallygot to seeanother side of gamble. Theyunderestimatedthe him.ThedemandsofleadingLabour gamble, Ithink.” had, he says tactfully, put him “in a He admits therewereaspects of certainspacewith acertainpersona, the top job he didn’t handle well. whichcan be problematic”. “I think there’ssomething about being the leader of the Labour party Miliband’sspellinchargeofLabour which imposesbig pressures and endedbadly, but it began in the bit- Ithink Iprobablysuccumbed too terestofcircumstancestoo.Itwas much.” He says he was “robotic” at the fag end of the NewLabour era, times, desperately tryingtolooklike as the party’s13-year dominance of aprime-minister-in-waiting,warily Britishpoliticscametoanend,when viewing everybacon sandwich as a he succeeded Gordon Brownon disaster waiting to happen. September 25 2010.Onadayofago- From top: with his Yet, even in the aftermath of nising drama, he unexpectedlybeat wifeJustine Thornton defeat,Miliband “neverreally his elder brother David Miliband, and their sons Daniel thought about leaving politics”. the former foreignsecretary,totake and Sam outside their He decidednot to followhis father the party crown. London home on Ralph Miliband, the renowned The rictus smile on the beaten May92015, the day after Labour’s election Marxist academic, into an ivory brother’sface told of afamilytorn defeat; unveiling the towerand instead returnedtothe apart by ambition. David left the party’s pledgeson back benchesasMPfor Doncas- country to work forthe Interna- the much-mocked ter North. And then, something tional Rescue Committee, an NGO ‘EdStone’inHastings, remarkable happened. “Thepublic in NewYork, whereheremains a during the 2015 discoveredIhad apersonality,” he decade on. Meanwhile, some on the election campaign smiles,his hands pushing deep into Blairitewing of the Labour party, his slightlygreying hair. who sawDavid as their continuity As Miliband was about to be candidate, have neverforgiven Ed, reminded, thereisnothing the Brit- who was regardedasverymuch the ish public lovesmorethan aloser. junior of thetwo siblings in both age Wherepreviouslyhis academic andexperience.“Hewasperhapsthe air and occasionallygoofy looks most ill-suited, miscast,frightened, hadprovedanelectoralliability, unskilled, lacking-in-judgment nowtheycombinedwithawasp- leader in Labour’shistory,”says one ish and hitherto-suppressedsense former Labour minister. of humour to create amoreintrigu- Miliband’scriticscontinuetohold ing package. One of the earliest signs him accountable for what theyview of this came in 2017 when, with the as fivewastedyears under Corbyn, ▶

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 23 From top: with then ◀ who benefitedfromaMiliband leader Keir Starmerofferedhim Labour leader Jeremy reform that sawLabour leaders the post of shadowbusiness,energy Corbyn addressing elected under “one member,one and industrialstrategy secretary, supporters in Doncaster vote”with people able to register as reflectsthis belief that Britain is on in May2016,before the EU referendum; supportersfor £3 and vote. the cusp of great change. at Haverstock, his “Thereisanenormous warmthin He arguesthatthe cumulative former school in north the party for Ed Miliband but many effect of the 2008 financial crash, London, with (from still blame him for the rule changes the public dissatisfaction with left) Keir Starmer and that ledtoCorbynism, and for fail- the status quo expressedinthe Tristram Hunt, listening ing to stand up to the advancesof 2016 Brexit referendum, and the to atalk on education while party leader theleft when he was leader,” says convulsions causedbyCovid-19 PaulRichards,co-founderofBlairite makeprofound reform unavoidable Facing and opening campaigngroup Progress. and says thestate hasakeyrole page: photographed As Miliband sat out the Corbyn to play. He cites theexample of near his London home years, some in the party’smain- retraininglaid-off Rolls-Royce streambelievedheshouldhavebeen aircraft engine-makers: “They more forceful in his criticism of his could be incredibly usefultothe successor,particularlyofthe wayin future of our renewablesindustry.” which anti-Semitism was allowed Miliband is also an admirer of to flourish duringhis tenure. “They Starmer,aformer director of public were very bad timesfor our party,” prosecutions whom he encouraged admits Miliband, who is the son of to stand for parliament in 2015 and Polish-Jewish immigrants.“Ithink whomhedescribes as “anincredibly Jeremy himselfacknowledgedhe decent blokewith incrediblygood wastoo slowtoget agriponit.” values”.And yetheadmits,“Ihad to He says he did speakout,but con- think hard about coming back now, firmsthat anti-Semitism was not the in truth,because my last experience reasonhedidnotserveintheCorbyn of thefrontline was pretty full-on”. team, and thathedid consider doing He adds that his wife, high-court so.“It was morethe time just wasn’t judge Justine Thornton, “might right.When youdoajob likebeing agree with that description”. Their theleader,ittakes it outofyou.” sons Sam and Daniel areagednine Miliband is currentlyservingon and 11 respectively.“These are aparty review into why Labour lost pretty critical years.Iwouldn’t rec- last year’selection so heavily, but ommend losing an election but says some conclusionsare already one of the virtuesfor me was that obvious.“There’sawhole host of it allowedmetobeaproperfather factors…and Ithink –just likemy andhusband.Sothese aredifficult leadership was an issue in 2015 –so dilemmas.But I’mglad Idecidedto Jeremy’swas in 2019.” He admits comeback.” Brexit was also afactor,and there were “realdoubts about the deliver- SoEdMilibandisback.Whetherhe ability of whatweweresaying”. canhelp Labouroverhaulan80-seat While Milibandunderwent his Tory majority at the next elec- personal reinvention, the political tion to implement any of the above debate on issuessuch as the envi- ideas remains ahuge question. “I ronment also seemedtomove back think it’sabig mountain to climb, ‘I think–justlike in his direction. Acabinet minis- we shouldn’t be under any illusions ter forclimate change in the last about that,” he says.“But Ithinkthis Labour government,hebelieves is amoment of reassessment.You’ve my leadership that Covid-19 could be the trigger gottogoout andmakeyour argu- for agreen revolution in the UK. ments and seewhereweare.” “This crisis superchargesthings He believesthat under Starmer’s wasanissue in and underlinesthe need for us to go leadership,thereisatleastaprospect faster.Weneed to putyoung people ofthepartypresentingaunitedfront backtowork.Whatpeoplecando,in atthenextelectionafterfive yearsof 2015 –soJeremy’s terms of greenenergy and nature, is “incrediblydamaging factionalism”. an absolute coreofthatinmyview.” “Most peoplesay,‘Let’sburyour dif- His decision to return to the front ferences,’” he adds.“We’regood at wasin2019’ bench in April, when new Labour burying our similarities.”

24 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 So far Starmer has made it his missiontoappearstatesmanlikeand to sideline the Corbyniteswithout trumpetingthefact.ThenewLabour leader,likeMiliband, believessoft- left social democracywill strikea chord with voters who can see the statecoming to their rescue in the face of apandemic. Peter Mandelson, aleading Blair- ite, fears that Labour maybeabout to makeahuge strategic mistake. “People can seethe difference betweenemergencymeasures and normal times,”hesays.“We would be fooling ourselvesifwethought the country,asaresult of the Covid experience, is nowreadyfor some ideological project to usherinstate controlofthe economy.” But Stewart Wood,who was Miliband’s consigliereduring his leadership,says hisformer boss has GES

MA come through the “brutal” expe- YI rience of election defeat and his ETT

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ST political correspondent

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 25 Observations

When Iwas studying at Oxforduniversity, my then boyfriend was the world debating champion. Other debaters would talk in hushed tonesabout the time he so cleverly, eloquently and reallyjust so forcefully wonthe title, arguing against the motion “This house would ban abortion at all stagesofpregnancy”.The final minutesbefore. Theyskeweredeach other with took place in Cork, Ireland, whereabortion was conviction. No one ever seemedtostruggle to still then limitedbythe eighth amendment. find something to say. It consistedofeight men. The 29-year-old Irish novelist Sally He and his debating partner avoidedgetting Rooney–author of the award-winning books bogged down in typical abortion rows over Conversations with Friends and Normal People –is whether the foetus is alive and arguedthat the also aformer champion debater.“When Iwas foetus maywell be human, but this side says 22,Iwas the number one competitive debater kill it anyway. The proposition team gradually on the continent of Europe,”she writesina2015 The great fell apart –wrapped up in trying to prove essay, “EvenifYou Beat Me”. During her time personhood,anargument that the other side at Trinity College Dublin, she recalls attending had decidednot to bother having. competitions in the Philippines, India and debaters When Imet my ex,Iwas 18 and he was 27,a Serbia. “I had lowself-esteem and apredilection graduate student.(Somehow, Istill seemedto for hero-worship,and Iwas extremely win all of our ownarguments.Ofcourse, then, determined. This was probablythe perfect therewas no audience.) He debatedBritish cocktail of tendenciesfor the novice debater. Parliamentary Style –“just likeinthe actual But by the time Icould seethat,Iwasn’t anovice Novelists Sally Rooney British parliament,” he tells me, when Icall him any more,”she writes. about this article. Numerous debaters have Citing the psychologist Mihály and Ben Lerner both gone on to become politicians,including Boris Csíkszentmihályi, Rooneyrefers to “flow” – emerged from the world Johnson, Jacob Rees-Mogg, William Hague and theseductive sensation of speaking at great Michael Gove –all former officers or presidents speed,brilliant facts and rebuttals pouring of competitivedebating of the Oxford Union. forth, as one dissociatesenough to admire –ashave manyofour In the bar of the Union, wheremany debates oneself doing it.“Complexthings become took place, Iwould hear students plan cases simple,”she explains.Iwatchedmyboyfriend politicians. But, asks for the merits of, say, computer-generated in that state, one hand pounding the air likea LouStoppard,how does child pornography or the death penalty.Inthe judge’s gavel, his expression tight,evenwhen their training shape Union chamber,Iwould listen to them speak he laughedloudlytoenhance apoint,the other fervently, sweating with effort,infavour of hand dismissively batting away his rivals as they the world we live in? things theyhad beentold to careabout just stood to offer points of information. BenLerner,another of this generation’s celebratedwriters,isalso aformer debater. But he grew up in America, wherethey favour different styles: policydebating and extemporaneous speaking. “Extemp”, as it’s called, is about speaking confidentlyona▶ Illustrations by Mark Wang

26 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 27 Observations

◀ range of current affairs.But,asLerner puts until he realises“that most people were not it in his 2019 novel TheTopekaSchool,“It was actuallydoing the reading. Theywerecoming of course as much about the opposite: howa into college every daytohaveheateddebates teenager in an ill-fitting suit could speak as if about books theyhad not read.” he had ahandle on the crisis in Kashmir,how “A lot of debating is just about being polish could compensate for substance as one emotionallypersuasive,” my ex tells me when I determinedthe viability of atwo-state solution.” running simultaneously. The Model United call him. “You arealways trying to work out the who is assaulting her.” He associatesthe unborn TheTopeka School is adebating novel. Nations,another competition, runs globally mood of the room. Yougivepeople what they babywith amurderous parasite –would you Its characters range from teenagers to future but is particularlypopular in the US whereit like.”Could therebebetter crash-training for a think twice about killing it? political advisers,and many of them serveto originated. Ostensiblywith Model UN,the goal politician?Or, perhaps,anovelist? As much as “Does debating makeyou good?” Iask him showthat speaking confidentlyand fluentlyis is consensus –but really, of course, it’svictory. these twobooks question the linguistic practices on the phone. He recalls his time as adebate not the same as knowing what you’re talking In 2013,The NewYork Timesreferred to it as of debating,theybenefit from them too. It’sthere coach when he was still at school: “A mother, about.Delivery is everything. High school a“Dog-Eat-Dog World”,explaining howithad in both Rooney’sand Lerner’swriting –flow. aChristian mother,came up afterwards and student Adam Gordon, Lerner’salter ego,is movedfromprioritising “protocol and decorum” Rooney’sdialogue, in particular,recalls the said to me, ‘I don’t want my son to do debating, acompetitive debater and amaster of the to become a“full-fledgedsport,with all the speed of debating;sobelievable, so pacy. In because you’re teaching him that thereisno “spread” –“that is,tomakemorearguments, competitiveness and rowdiness that suggests”. “EvenifYou Beat Me”, Rooney turns her back truth, and that everything can be arguedeither marshal moreevidence than the other team The TopekaSchool is about truth, status, on that male-dominatedworld; the judging,the way.’For awhile, Iwondered if it was abad can respond to within the allottedtime”. politics,whiteness,toxic masculinity.Those free trips.“Ididn’t want to give up the feeling of thing.”Hepauses. “Sometimespeople would And Adam’s debate coach later becomes“akey are, in away,the themesofdebating too: it’s flow, that perfect, self-eliminating focus,but I find ways of making arguments that were architect of the most right-wing governorship an arena that rewards privilegedyoung men didn’t want to perform it for points any more,” consistent with their moral frameworks,[but] it Kansas has ever known… an important model from elite institutions,performing sincerity. she writes. “Maybe Istopped debating to seeif just makes it harder.” for the Trump administration”, underlining the And, of course, theyare themesoftoday. Icould still think of things to saywhen there Surelysome people debatedbecause they novel’smoreserious political point. Theycharacterise an America, and aworld, weren’tany prizes.”She has wonmoreprizesas reallycared about these issuesand wanted wheretrust in institutions has dissolved, the anovelist,itturns out. to talk about them?Hecuts me off. “No. It’sa Debating runs on the idea that,inany prevalence of racism and misogyny is being game. It was intellectual masturbation.” argument,thereare twosides: for and against, revealed, and wherelying –orbending thetruth Recently, after finishing The TopekaSchool, And wheredid theyall end up?Some are right and wrong. It is about the easydichotomy, until it is unrecognisable –iscommonplace. Iwatchedavideoofmyexwinning Worlds. lawyers or politicians,many aremanagement the binary.Asmuch as it promotesthe idea “Evenbeforethe 24-hour news cycle,”Lerner It’sstill thereonYouTubeand has nearly consultants –“a25-year-old reshaping the waya of broadening perspectives, in its formal, writes, “Twitter storms,algorithmic trading, 100,000 views.Responding to his opponent company works,with almost no information, no competitive sense debating presumesthat we spreadsheets,the DDoS attack, Americans in the abortion debate, he gets up,stern and background, no knowledge”, as he puts it.And areall working from the same parameters, were getting ‘spread’ in their dailylives.” School slim, and says:“Thereare scenarios where, some, of course, arewriters. the same twoends of each question. pursuits –detentions,proms,powerstruggles even when the other agent is aperson, it is still But today’scropoffast talkers is more It takes place in schools everywhere. At the –havelong providedmeat for novels.But here legitimate to remove the life of that individual media-savvy than before. Many refuse to be Worlds final wheremyboyfriend won, more Lerner is picking away at the waywelearn, in order to sustain the life of another…wethink filmedwhen theydebate. “A ruthless kid who than 1,000 students competedfromabout the attributeswereward and the systems they this is ascenario whereifthe woman doesn’t wants to be prime minister one daydoesn’t ‘Surely somepeople debated 40 countries. At times, nearly80debateswere reflect and shape. want the baby, then the babyisakin to someone want some videoofhim online arguing for, Rooneycares about this too. In Normal People, say, computer-generatedchild pornography,” because theyreally cared one of her protagonists,Connell, glancesaround says my ex.Maybe theyjust want to be able about the issues? He cutsme aseminar at Trinity College Dublin filledwith to leave that life behind at some point,like off.“No.It’sagame.Itwas students richer and moreconfident than he, and Rooney, Iwonder aloud. “Ormaybe theyare wonders “why all their classroomdiscussions just even morewilling to saythings that they intellectual masturbation”’ were so abstractand lacking in textual detail”, don’t believe in order to win,”hereplies.

28 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 29 VANNUYS NIGHTS

Throughout the early 1970s, VanNuys Boulevard in asuburb of LosAngeleswas theplace to hang out and showoffyourride. Rick McCloskey’s photographs capturenot only the spirit of youth –but also the freedomofanewly mobile generation

No car wasnecessarytocome out for ‘cruise’nights in the Valley. Twoyoung women, perhaps not yetold enough to drive, meet up with some friends in a GTOPontiac

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‘GAS WASCHEAP,TIMES WERE GREAT, ANDTHE BOULEVARD HUMMEDWITHLIFE’

Wednesdaynight was“cruisenight” in the SanFernando Valley, Gas was cheap,timesweregreat andthe boulevard hummed with asuburb sprawling north of LosAngeles. The stretchonVan Nuys life during theevenings.Eventhe draft duringthe Vietnam war Boulevard betweenVentura Boulevard, on the southern end, and did not dampen the streetscene. By 1972, the year Iwent back to well past Sherman Waytothe north,teemedwith kidsand cars VanNuystoshoot my seriesofphotographs,the culturehad become from all overSouthern California. It was aterrific placetosee and an amalgamation of divergentlifestyles, cars –usedand new –and be seen –and to showoffyourride. someverydifferent looks and styles. Therewerevan kids –surfers, By the early1950s,the boulevard was alreadyagatheringplace, mostly–low-riders,muscle cars,streetracers,Volkswagenowners aregular destinationfor ayoung and newlymobile generation. and many more. Iset about portraying the people, their cars and the These were good economic timesinthe US.After 10 years of the iconic background settings–and Itriedtocapturemyimagesinthat Great Depressionand fiveyears of aworld war,awaveofprosperity order of importance. had finallyallowedAmericanstotrade in their ageing automobiles Little did Isuspectthat cruisingwouldsooncome to an end. for new cars. This in turn deliveredmillions of “classic” usedcars My projectwould become moreahistorical record than an to themarketplace:inexpensive modelsthatwerescooped up by account of contemporary life. The oil crisis in late 1973 andthe teenagers eager to gain some freedom. Souped-up versions of these commensurate rise in gasoline prices,coupledwith ever-increasing carssoondecorated theevening sceneonstreets across America. complaints from the local business community,tooktheir toll With the comingofthe 1960s,the teenagersofthe baby- and by the end of the 1970s,the night-time-driving scene along boomgeneration startedtoreach driving age and the industry VanNuysBoulevard was nearing its end.Similar trends dampened began to design very cool and very powerfulcars aimedatthis cruising cultureinmost communitiesacross the US.What was market.“Muscle cars”, suchasthe Ford Mustang,“mid-sized” once the spontaneous use of publicspace by so many young people performance cars,such as the Chevrolet Chevelle,the Pontiac GTO disappeared.Imageslikethese arewhat we have left. and Chevrolet Camaro, were all slick and hot.Many of these were actuallyproducedatahuge Chevrolet assemblyplant locatedin Rick McCloskey’s “Van Nuys Blvd 1972”ispublishedbySturm and Drang north VanNuys. Formorethanthree decades, the plant ran three and is available from the end of thismonth.This text is an edited extract shifts,24hours aday. from the book

32 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 1 — Friends watch acustom Chevy leave 2 — After seeing The Godfather at the 4 — Young women in aDatsun pick-up 6 — ‘Lonely Teardrops’, aheavily the parking lot of June Ellen’s donut Capri Theater in downtown VanNuys, truck, parked on the boulevard across customised Pontiac.Itook this image bakeryatthe southern end of VanNuys some moviegoerssavour the last of the street from BonesHamilton Buick while the owner of the car wasreceiving their popcorn atraffic citation just out of view–his 5 — Officersfromthe VanNuys Motors girlfriend took her pose by the car 3 — Going barefoot wasthe standard Division of the LosAngelesPolice during the summersinSouthern Department. Both the city authorities 7 — Riding in the back of apick-up truck California, especially in the extra-hot and the business community held a wasstill legal when this image was Valley. Ayoungdriver leans against his rather negativeviewofcruising taken, and this tribe is enjoying the best muscle car,aPlymouth 383 of it. Purefun

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FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 33 Bunker Food Judy Joo ‘WhenIcookedfor Hugh Hefner, Iwas sent this detailed recipe, whichheate most nights.Itproves to be the perfectbunkerfood’

have beenliving in my pyjamas recently. –cannedisnow king.One must peeralong dark In fact, Ihavenot put on “real” clothesfor shelvesatthe backofthe store to find that one weeks and am becoming quite accustomed lost tin of muddy-coloured greens. to my every-day,all-day bedwear wardrobe. When Iwas cooking for Hef,though, his I’msocomfortable, Ifind myself pondering if I bulkysecurity attaché brought me all of the couldget away with this attireall the time. prepackagedbrandeditems Ineeded.Once, he Ioftenthink of the lateHugh Hefner,who offered afew words of gratitude: “Chefs always Ieffortlesslyperfected this perennialdaytime hate cooking this kind of food.Thank youfor slumber style. Evenhis yearlyChristmascard doingthis,” before leaning in and whispering, showedhim in his famous silkpyjamas. In the “The restaurantchefs in LA always put in one evening,hemerelyaddedabathrobe,and when freshpea in themix of the canned ones, just one… he had company,he“dressedup” by draping we call it the ‘Fuck You’ pea.”Then he winked at asmoking jacketoverthe top.Hewas aman me and left. of habitand, as with his trademark PJs,hewas When Imade the dish recently,the hardest known to keep manythings in his life routine, item to find was the rack of lamb or cutlets on including his meals. the bone, but Imanagedtoprocure aplastic- Musing in my silkpyjamas,Irecall when wrapped packoflamb ribs.Ifthat’sall youcan Icookedfor Hef in 2011during my stint as get,you’ll have to be your ownbutcher and executive chef for the Playboy Club.Iwas execute aproper“French”, atechnique that briefedbyarather didactic personal assistant, plungesasdeeplyasthe Dowdid earlier this who emailedmeadetailed recipe with intricate year.Analluring French cut requires onetotrim specifications for Hef’s lambchop dinner,which off all the excess fat and any sinew, and unveil he apparentlyate most nights.Evenwhen he the covetedwhite bonesall the waydowntothe dinedout in LosAngeles, restaurant chefs were meat.Thereissomething elegantlypleasing, instructed to recreatethisprecise dish. Luckily, it even sexy,about extendedexposedlong lamb is amodestand simple recipe, and it provestobe ribs,and it makes them easier to handle and the perfect bunker food. gnaw. Ididn’t think Iwas that kind of chef but, Hef’s lambchops areserved alongside canned Iadmit,Idoenjoystripping the bonesnaked Le SueurVeryYoung SmallSweet Peas,abaked and flaunting them. potato,Mott’sApplesauce, gravymade from Hef liked accompanimentstobeseparated Campbell’stinnedbeefbroth enhancedwith from the mainattraction. If therewereother SwissChaletthickener,and slicedtomatoes. items on the main plate, theyshould not Most of theseingredients Inow happen to store encroach upon each other.The baked potato, in my panic-bought flight-to-safety pantry. for example, is served flirtingly next to the ribs, Tinnedgoodshavelong hadabad rap.With but the lamb gravy is not allowedtotouch it. OO Covid-19,though, demand has outstripped supply The potato must be split open, but the butter YJ JUD

34 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 Hugh Hefner’s lambchop dinner adapted by Judy Joo

Serves one Apple sauce the peas into asidebowl, and add and salt must be served on the side. Same with •115gprepackaged apple one “FU” freshorfrozen pea. the apple sauce and the “salad” of twobeefsteak Lamb chops sauce,atroom temperature tomato slices, cut from the middle of the tomato •3-5 French-cutlamb chops 5 —Cut two1.25cmslices and placed on romainelettuce leaf tops,all (preferably cut from a1.4kg rack) 1 —French the lamb chops, season horizontally from thecentreofthe served separately. •1tbs fleurdesel salt or generouslywith thesaltand white tomato and cut thetop two frilly Maldonsea salt pepper anddrizzlewith olive oil. leaves off thelettuce.Line aside The peas were the exception. Iwas instructed •1tspgroundwhite pepper Allowtomarinatefor 15 minutes. plate with the leaves, and place to warm them through with apinch of sea salt •½tsp extravirgin olive oil Then, in averyhot sauté pan,sear the tomato slicesinthe middle, on and apat of buttermixed in. Fresh butter does thechopsonboth sidesuntil they top.Reservethe rest of thetomato lift the flavour significantly, and during Covid Lamb sauce aredarkbrown and have reached andlettucefor arealsalad. timesIhave optedtouse fleur de sel as my salt. •1can(300g) Campbell’sBeef your desireddoneness. Remove Ihad beenhoarding astash of these precious Broth or 1beef bouillon stockcube from the pan andallow to rest. Keep 6 —Tip the apple sauce crystals, deeming them so special that Idared dissolved in 235ml hotwater warm in alow oven if necessary. intoasmall side bowl. •120ml cold water (if using not use them. But every boost of flavour is Campbell’sBeefBroth) 2 —Combine the canned beefbroth Platepresentation necessary when bunker cooking,soIsprinkle •1½tsp of SwissChalet and120ml of water(or dissolvethe Placethe lambchopsonawarm fleur de sel liberallyoneverything now, and vegetablestarchthickener bouilloncube in water) andbring dinner plate,preferably personally tinnedpeas scream for afinal flourish.Asanod or ¼tsp of cornstarch/flour to asimmer.Whisk in theSwiss monogrammed. The bonesshould to Hef, Ichuck in one bright green“FU”pea from mixed with ¼tsp water Chalet thickener or cornstarch be pointing to the centreofthe my freezer. •Sprig of rosemary and return to asimmer.Add the plate. Spoon alittleofthe gravy Cook the lambtoyourchosenlevel of “done”. (about 10cmlong) rosemarysprig and allowtoinfuse over each chop and allowittoflow for5minutes.Remove the rosemary slightly on to the plate.Place the Hef was a“medium well” kindofguy,whereas Baked potato andkeep the sauce warm. baked potato next to the chops, Iprefermylamb alight rosé.Iwas told to cook •1medium-sized baking potato making surethereisnosauce four ribs and taste-test one of them.Ifthe test rib (anystarchy variety,suchas 3 —Wash thepotatowell. (I was touching it. Do not put butterinto was deemedexceptional,Icould serve the other Russet, Maris Piper or told to prepare three potatoesand thepotato –itshould be served three to Hef.Otherwise, start over. King Edward) pick thebestone forHef,but Ijust on the side withsomeadditional When you’ve set the table for your pyjama •Pat of butter prepared one.) Wrap it in foil and salt. Serve with thesidedishesof party, pour yourself astiff glass of Jack Daniel’s bake at 190C for90minutes or peas, applesauce and “salad”. Peas until done.Remove from theoven, and Pepsi–Hef’s drinkofchoice –and tuck in. •425gcan of Le Sueur keeping it warm, andtakeoffthe foil Serving Rip into your juicyribs,ravish thosecharming Very Young SmallSweet before placingitonthe plate.Split Everything should be readybefore side dishes and dine likeaplayboy…orplaygirl, Peas or similar brand thepotato at the top and fluffthe cooking the chops. Whenthe just for one lockdown evening. •1tspsalted butter insides slightly.Put the pat of butter chopsare cooked, abutler should •Pinch of fleur de sel on asmall side dish. Keep warm. servethe meal immediately. Judy Jooisaformer banker turned chef,restaurateur •1single freshorfrozenpea and author.Her latest book, “JudyJoo’s Korean 4 —Drain thepeasand heat in a Dress code Tomato “salad” saucepan. Season lightlywiththe Pyjamas, preferably silk. Soul Food”, is published by White Lion. Her new •1largebeefsteak tomato(c130g) salted butter and salt, tossing to restaurant,Seoul Bird,isdue to open in Westfield •2leavesofromaine lettuce coat. Spoon aboutone-third of Shepherd’sBush; @judyjoochef

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 35

Jancis Robinson Wine California’s new-wave wines

’ve beenthinking moreand more Instead, therewas Napa Albariño, about the massive gap between Grenache and Pinot Grigio, as well what non-Americans think as creative blends of all sorts. Iabout the world’sfourth biggest In termsofappellations, wine producer, California, and the Napa,Sonoma and Central Coast current reality thatpersists. no longerhaveamonopoly.As Most wine lovers I discuss co-author of The WorldAtlas California with,eventhosewell- of Wine,inmy tastingsboth in informedabout the rest of the London and in California last world, think primarilyofextremely February, Ikept coming across expensive, potent Napa Valley such relatively unfamiliar names Cabernets.Those who shop for as Dunnigan Hills,Coombsville, wine in the supermarket mayalso Borden Ranch, Clements be awareofmass-market,high- Hills,Yorkville Highlands volume brands such as Barefoot, and RedHills Lake County. BlossomHill and Echo Falls. Just as in Australia and South But, in fact, California’s vitality Africa, ambitious young California and excitement lie neither at the producers without land or much topnor the bottom of theprice capital aremaking silk purses scale, but in the lowermiddle out of grapes with sow’sear wherethereisamuch, muchwider range of grape varieties,styles andappellationsthan therewere ‘California’s excitement lies 10 years ago.Theyare typically neither at thetop nor the producedbyyoung,dynamic, innovativeand independent bottom of theprice scale, winemakers. And that,Ihope, is but in thelower middle’ whereCalifornia’s wine futurelies. Campaignerssuch as the As imagined by Leon Edler author JonBonné, with his2013 reputations.The grapes areso book TheNew California Wine, much moreaffordable –last year and the sommelier-turned- youcould buy aton of Friulano winemaker RajParr,instigator grapes from Mendocino for just of aseries of tastings of these $1,500,while some Napa Valley sortsofwinescalledInPraise of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes sold Balance,havedone their bestto for as much as $50,000 aton. drawattention to theevolution That makes aheckofadifference of California wine,but the effects to the sellingprice perbottle. have beenlargely within theUS. Some of the “Cinderella Theproblemisthat American vines” –varietiesthat arenot wine producers aren’t great Australasia. Currentlyfashionable Agrapeglut on the West Coast international classicsbut are exporters.Italy and Spain export in that trend-conscious market are is turningAmerican vintners’ becoming increasinglyfashionable, more than sixtimes as much light,fresh winesmadeinCalifornia thoughts to the possibilitiesof thanks to the work of these new- wine as California, and France from relatively obscure French exportation, and California’s wave winemakers –are usefully four times as much. So even grapevarietiessuchasTrousseau, Wine Institute is focusedon old and therefore produce low wine drinkers in major wine- Valdiguié and Counoise, andfrom encouraging this.Justbefore yields of particularlyflavourful importing countriessuch as the Italian varietiessuchasRefosco, lockdown, ateam of Americans grapes.(Thanks to Prohibition in UK arerelativelyignorant about Ribolla Gialla and Friulano. flew to London to host ashowing the early20th century, California thedramatic widening of what’s EvenMission –the grape of about 450California wines has some of the oldest vinesin on offer from vintnersonthe originallyknown as PaísinChile, that arecurrentlyavailable in the the world, plants that were not West Coast,whichproducesthe which was brought north by UK, with not one supermarket worth replacing when therewas majority of American wine. themissionarieswho settled brand among them. no market for their produce.) NewYorkers,perhapsnot along the west coastinthelate Among the 50-odd Napa If the varieties of these new- surprisingly, aremuch better 18th century,and scorneduntil Valleywines, therewereonly12 wave California winesare not so informedabout California wines recently –isenjoyingnew-found Cabernets,none of them in the familiar,some of the producer than wine drinkers in Europeand esteem and ingenuity. triple-digitper bottle price range. namesare just as unusual: ▶

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 37 Recommended new-waveCalifornia wines ◀Dirty &Rowdy is nowquite well- enormouslyand is typically established but thereare Ashes provided, via amanagement UK importers who specialise in new-waveCalifornia wines &Diamonds,The Federalist, company,bydecreasing numbers include Indigo,Nekter,Roberson and Tiger Vines. Jolie-Laide, Angels &Cowboys, of highlyskilledMexicans,who Benevolent Neglect, Bread & often need local lodging. And WHITES REDS Butter,Donkey &Goat,Notary then thereare the fees of the well- • Pax, Buddha’s Dharma Vineyard • Mountain TidesPetite Public, Once & Future and Reckless known consultants who help to Chenin Blanc 2017 Mendocino Sirah 2018 California Love.You get the picture. bolster the quality and image of the $27.30-$32 various US retailers $19.99 K&L winesand wineriesrespectively. £34.90 Indigo £22.95 Jeroboams leaderofthe pack in Avery high proportion of Napa • Minus Tide,Mariah • Minus Tide,FelizCreek Vineyard Vineyard Chardonnay2017 Carignan 2018 Mendocino this sort of enterprise wineriesare ownedbywell- Mendocino Ridge $30 Flatiron Wines& is the Napa-born Tegan heeled incomerswithout proven $36Flatiron Wines& Spirits, San Francisco APassalacqua (his own winemakingexpertise. Spirits, San Francisco • Kutch range of Sonoma name is presumablyquitearresting All this is in stark contrast to • DeSante,Old VinesWhite Coast Pinot Noirs enough for him to choose asimple the typical modelofthe new-wave 2014 Napa Valley Widely available in Europe name, Sandlands, for his personal winemakers: buying inexpensive £39.99 AG Wines and the US.2017s from • Paul Lato,Matinee £36.80 Roberson wine label). Sandlands produces grapes and making wine Sauvignon Blanc 2016 • Birichino,Bechthold Vineyard winessuch as LodiCinsault and themselvesinthe corner of ashared SantaBarbaraCounty Old Vines, VignesCentenaires Mataro(Mourvèdre), which comes shed, often in the evenings andat £44.40 [email protected] Cinsault 2018 Mokelumne River from the ancient vine stumps that weekendswhileholding down a • Matthiasson, Matthiasson $23.69-$31various US retailers push out of sand in Oakley,Contra dayjob at abetter-fundedwinery. Vineyard Ribolla Gialla 2017 2016 is about £29Noel Costa County, savedfromthe It maybedifficultfor Napa Valley Young, Butler’s Wine Cellar, $45-$54 various US retailers The SalusburyWinestore clutchesofproperty developers newcomerstomakemoneyout • Matthiasson, Matthiasson onlybytheir proximity to the of wine production in Napa but Vineyard Refosco 2017 PG&E powerplant. that doesn’tseemtobeputting Napa Valley On my first night in Napa, a off potentialinvestors.Owning 2015 is £55 Nekter Wines or name so readilyassociatedwith aNapa winery,orat least a $45 various US retailers some of the most expensive wines Napawine label, still seems to • Dirty &Rowdy,Maple’s Spring St Petite Sirah 2016 St Helena in the world, Ihad dinner with be awidespread ambition –or $55-$73 various US retailers Passalacqua.Hetookmeaback perhaps atax write-off–for • Halcón, Elevación Syrah2018 by claiming that onlyabout 25 per many asuccessful American who Yorkville Highlands cent of wineries in Napa Valleyare has made agreat deal of money $32 Halconvineyards.com profitable. Ihad naively assumed elsewhere. And the numberof To be importedbyA&B Vintners that high pricesguaranteed high-profile French wine producers margins that were easilyhigh investing in California wineries enough to covercosts and much continuestogrow, with the most more. But during the rest of my recent acquisition, just before week in northern California, I lockdown, being Champagne floatedthis statistic and everyone Louis Roederer’sofDiamond agreed it was about right. Creek, one of Napa’s most terroir- Land costs thereare the highest conscious producers. of any American wine region by Tasting notesonPurple PagesofJancisRobinson.com. aconsiderable margin. The cost More columns at ft.com/ International retailers on Wine-searcher.com of vineyard labour has increased jancis-robinson

38 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 (less obviously)dealing with bad – sometimes murderous –boyfriends andother setbacks,all the while buildingdeepfriendships and learning to accept help,and her ownshortcomings.She is aheroic Everywoman, who just happens to carry apointy stake. Buffy remains my favouriteTVseriesofall time. With our picnicspread out, I’llpour thechilledrosé wine –something light,almost pinkish- white from southern France, remindingmeofholidays with friends andfamily. Idon’t carethat rosé is not smart or cool. Heretically, Ievenlikeitservedwith acouple of ice cubes.There’s also tart Italian lemonade, San Benedetto,for those who want to swim andwillnot drink until later (in real life,no alcohol is allowedatthe pond). Finally, we will need atrue story- teller,someone to takeusfrom lunchtimeintothe lazy haze of a late summerafternoon in London. Inlockdown I’ve met my final guest, FANTASYDINNER PARTY Zora Neale Hurston,author of ISABEL BERWICK Their Eyes Were Watching God,an extraordinary 1937 bookIpickedup by chance in asecond-hand shop, and which carries the reader into African-American communities of thesouth,whereJanie Stark attempts,and succeedsagainst all odds,tobeherselfand find love. The FT’s Work &Careers My husband Michael is abrilliant up on mismatchedplatesbought at Hurston wasafamous cook. He once packedhis pasta my church’s jumble sale. Ihopeshe intellectual, aplaywright and a editor picksthe guests, machine when we went camping will appreciate the gesture –church regular at thepartiesofthe Harlem destination, dishesand –OK, glamping –inFrance. So for events and their inevitable tensions renaissance. She and Pym were drinksfor adream meal themaincourse, I’ll ask him to have arecurring role in her fiction. near-contemporaries,albeit from with adifference make his signaturelong-simmered We’d also invite Lady Mary different worldsand continents. tomato sauce, with aDeCecco WortleyMontagu,atravellerand Whatwill theyfind in common? pastaand ingredientsbought from independent spiritwho introduced Perhaps the search for ameaningful another local marvel,LoSfizio. the smallpox inoculationtoEurope life that allowswomen to be fulfilled Iknowspaghetti withtomatosauce havingseenits use in Turkey, –but liberated from the crushing is traditional, but Ilike zite,long whereshe livedfor many years – demands of society and family. Iam hollow tubes that areacelebration and whereshe mixed withwomen hoping Buffy and Lady Mcan teach yfantasydinner party pastaservedatweddings(zita us all athing or twoonthosepoints. isn’t adinner at allbut meansbride in southernItaly). Themealends with my favourite apicnic on the meadow These areespecially satisfying to ‘After the feast, we’llhead taste of the summer,fresh English Mat Kenwood Ladies’ eat with your fingers, so will make into the pond foraturn strawberries. We will be doing our Pond, on Hampstead Heath in perfect picnicfodder. as the crowds leaveand bit to eatupthis year’s unexpected northLondon.The meadowisa Because of the location, the temperaturecools’ glut,the melancholy result of grassy bank,hidden from the wider my guests areall women, but closedrestaurantsand cancelled world and prying eyes.For almost that’snohardship. My first,the events –dipping the tip of each acentury,women have gathered 20th-century author Barbara Pym, livinginharems.(Ithinkshe will berry deep intoapot of Rodda’s hereinsmall groupstosunbathe, wrote exquisitelyobserved love thepond.) Herwords and life delicious Cornish clottedcream. eat,read and talk. And my picnicis books that arewiseand funny story captivatedmeasayoung After the feast, we’ll risk lying

GES doubly afantasybecausethe lawn – companions through the bestand woman, when the voices of 17th- in full sun and, as afternoonturns MA

YI likethe pond –iscurrentlyshut. worst of times. Her mostfamous and 18th-centuryfemalewriters into evening,headinto the pond I’ll takeablankettospread novelisExcellentWomen –new were mostlyabsentfromthe foraturn as thecrowdsleave and GETT

Y; out and an old-fashionedbasket readers,start there–inwhichnot literary world. Ihopeshe and Pym thetemperaturecools.I’vebrought

BIBB packed with food from Phoenicia, much andeverything happens will have plenty to discuss –both rugs to help us warm up afterour afriendlygrocery in Kentish Town to Mildred Lathbury, one of those areobservers of others,whilebeing swim –served with flasksoftea and runbyaLebanese family(Yotam young-ish womenwho takecare extraordinary writersthemselves. home-made biscuits.Our party will CHARLIE

Y; Ottolenghi shops here, so youcan of everything, except themselves. When the conversation flags, surelygoonlong into the evening. ET usually get all his ingredients). Pym’s interwar Londonisone of we can ask Buffy theVampire Let’sjust hopeBuffy canget the OCI As starters for my picnic, Ibuy lonely bedsits,high-church vicars Slayer,asplayedbySarahMichelle night off. MS

PY freshhummus andbaba ganoush, andterrible brown-and-grey food in Gellar,toshowusher moves.

ARA zaatar-ladenflatbreads and apot of cheap cafés.She will certainlylove Buffy’sstory is one(obviously) of Isabel Berwick is the FT’s RB lemon- and garlic-infused olives. my colourful picnic, whichI’ll serve slaying demons in California,while Work &Careerseditor BA

FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 39 AreturntoItaly

On atriptoFlorence last nthe table next to us were locals, kids,dogs and loiterers,the waiters twostylish elderlywomen getting readytoend lunch service and begin year, Itamar Srulovich and with silk headscarves and preparationfor dinner,and the twowomennext Sarit Packer discovered sunglasses,compacts and to us,polishing off every last scrap of meat from lipsticks in snakeskin their T-bones. atrattoria close to the handbags, lookingjust The food,when it came, would not win any Ponte Vecchio andsettled so.Theywerespeaking Michelin stars –nobodyforagedfor ants in any OItalian so fast we couldn’t forgotten forest–but it was,nevertheless,simple down foraperfect afternoon. understand all of it,just enough to knowthat and delicious: the asparagus starterwas so Nowinlockdown, theyhave theyweretalking about food. tender youcould eat it with aspoon, the gnocchi Awaiter cleared theirsalad starters and tossedwith sharpolive oil, sweetchunks of recreated that magicalmeal brought their mains –apair of two-inch- artichoke anddraped with salty slicesofham. thick T-bone steaks, blackenedonthe outside Ayearon, we don’t remember the name of the and barelycookedwithin. We were amazed trattoria but we pine for thisperfect afternoon to seehow elegantlytheyput away such and for the delights of eating out. huge quantities of redmeat; we had eaten With restaurants shuttered for Godknows one of thosesteaks the night beforeinone of howmany weeks now, thereare serious Florence’s famous bucas –hole-in-the-wall questions about howtheywill reopen and what trattorias –and, betweenthe twoofus, we could eating out will mean in apost-pandemic world. barelymanage half. Arerestaurants even that important? They It was about this time last year,and we were aretous–and not just because we makeour dining in atrattoria on the tiny Piazza della living from them. Agood restaurant provides Passera,just astone’s throw from the teeming so much morethan food.Itisaplace for joy Ponte Vecchio.Wearrivedlate afternoon and and comfort,ameeting spot for the community the maître d’ had to check with the kitchen and awindowinto it,astage set for life’s big beforetaking us to our table, situatedbetween and little moments that will become, in time, the elderlywomen and along tablefull of chatty happymemories. young Italians,all dressedinaway that would We can’twait for restaurants to start serving look absurd on anyone who wasn’t Italian. again, to sit with friends and comparelockdown We didn’t want steak –we’dhad our fill the stories, or just sit with each other and watch night before–and the menu was full of lovely the world tick over. In the meantime, we’ve set seasonal options.Itwas the last meal of our up our ownlittle restaurant at home wherewe holiday. We didn’t have much to saytoeach recreateour favourite restaurantmemories. other but we were happytosit quietly, sip our cocktails and watch the world go by:the trees By Itamar Srulovich. Recipe by Sarit Packer Photographs by Patricia Niven in the dappledsquare, the mix of tourists and [email protected]

40 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 41 ‘A year on,wedon’t remember the name of thetrattoria butwepine forthis perfectafternoon’

Green and white asparagus with anchovy butter

To servetwo

We likeour asparagus cooked longer than is fashionable so that it comesout quite soft. Just reduce the cooking time if youwant moreofacrunch.

•1tbs salt •1tspsugar •4fatspears of white asparagus •4fatspears of green asparagus •50g salted butter •4anchovy filletsinoil

1 —Heatand boil plenty of water in alarge pan and season well with the salt and sugar.

2 —Chop off the bottom inch of the asparagus stalksand peel alittle around the fibrous base (until about halfway up).

3 —Dropthem into the boiling water and cook for fivetosix minutesuntil the Gnocchi with Parma ham and artichokes asparagus is soft. Agenerous meal fortwo •150gpreservedortinned and cool until youcan 5 —Set alarge pot on the 4 —While theasparagus with leftovers artichokes or twoglobe handle them. Using the stove to heat with plenty of is cooking, melt the butter artichokes prepped down rough side of agrater,peel salted water.Inalarge in afrying pan and add Youcan very easily sub to the hearts and sliced and grate them onto a frying pan, heat the olive the anchovies. Allowthe the home-made gnocchi •Salt and freshly ground large boardortraythat oil and add the garlic and anchoviestomelt into with the shop-bought black pepper youcan use formixing and sliced artichokes.Tossa the foamybutter. variety or anyother short •50g thinly sliced shaping, (you should end little to colour,and season pasta, especially if youare Parma ham up with about 550g-600g with salt and pepper.Then 5 —Liftthe asparagus from using tinned artichokes. •Afewsprigs of parsley, potato flesh, net weight). tear strips of prosciutto the boiling water directly into That said, making these leaves picked and into the pan and stir to the frying pan, and coat and is so much fun and a chopped 3 —Create alittle well in distribute and crisp them toss with the melted butter. greatskill to master. the centreofthe grated up alittle. 1 —Place the whole potato mass and add half 6 —Serve straight away. To makethe gnocchi potatoesinapan with the flour,eggs, Parmesan, 6 —Assoon as the water •3large baking potatoes water,making surethey salt and nutmeg. Start starts to boil, pop the (about 700g-750g) arefully covered. Add working the mix to form a gnocchi into the pan and •1lwater the tablespoon of salt and solid dough, using moreof wait forthem to float. Then •1tbs salt bring to aboil, then the flour if needed to help remove the gnocchi from •100g-150g plain flour reduce the heat, semi bind it together. the water with aslotted •1egg yolk coverthe pot and simmer spoon and put them •1egg for35-40minutes, or until 4 —Sprinkle some moreof straight into the frying pan •40g grated Parmesan aknifegoesthrough the the flour on the boardand with the artichokes.Add •½tsp salt potatoeseasily.You can roll the dough into four the chopped parsley, toss •Generous pinch turn the potatoeshalfway “snakes”, cut them into once or twice to coat the of nutmeg through but don’t add any little chunksabout 2cm gnocchi in the sauce and extrawater. long and set them aside serve immediately. To makethe sauce until youare ready to cook •3tbs oliveoil 2 —Remove the potatoes and serve.You can also •2clovesofgarlic,peeled from the water,put them freeze them and cook from and lightly crushed on aplate and let them dry frozen when required.

42 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 43 ‘Thisrecipemakes quiteageneroushelping, so youcan keep some forthe next dayor simply indulge–youhaven’t been outinages’

Tiramisu

Makestwo large portions

We nevermakethis at home but wheneverwego outfor an Italian mealweusually order one to share. This recipe makes quite agenerous helping, so youcan keep some forthe next dayorsimply indulge –you haven’t been out in agesafter all.

•4sponge fingers •1cup strong coffee •2egg yolks •20g sugar •200g mascarpone •2egg whites •20g sugar •20g dark chocolate chopped, or 1tbs cocoa powder

1 —Dip asponge finger in the coffee and place one at the bottom of each serving glass. Whisk the egg yolkswith the sugar until really fluffy, add the mascarpone and continue whisking until well mixed.

2 —Inaseparate bowl whisk the egg whiteswith the other 20gofsugar to form alight foam, and then fold the egg-white mix into the mascarpone.

3 —Fill the glassesuntil half full with the mascarpone mixture, then dip another sponge finger in the coffee and pop it in the glass, top with the remaining mixtureand sprinkle with chopped dark chocolate or cocoa powder.

4 —Place the glassesinthe fridge until youare ready to serve.

44 FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 Games

ARound on theLinks The Crossword by JamesWalton No 492.Set by Aldhelm

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FT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020 45 few weeks ago,Iwas sent a an escape. We talked for an hour,made plans to terrificallyoff-putting invitation speak again and Ileft readytosign up for more. to anew social media platform. The set-up is undeniablyodd –somewhere “You heard of Lunchclub?” a betweenadate and ajob interview,without the friend texted. “Wanna sign up? end goal of either.But Lunchclub is not the only It’sasuper-connector-networking social media platform facilitating random online thing whereyou chat to strangers connections during lockdown. Virtual-gaming by video.” hangout Discord alreadyhas millions of users. This happens quite alot in Nextdoor is away to meet your neighbours. San Francisco.Start-up founders Variousdatingappshavea“makeafriend”option, lean on friends to bulk up their including Bumble and The League. And Slashtalk A early-user numbers.Iwas once promisestoimprove communication for virtual asked to attend awomen’shealth app launch by teams by facilitating “decentralised” meetings. someone who addedthe disconcerting caveat: “They’re planning to test everyone who goes but youmay be able to skip the swab if youask.” ‘I’ve missed seeingnew faces Isteered clear of the launch party –and and having thekinds of ELAINE Lunchclub.Who needsanother social media platform in their life –especiallyanetworking serendipitous encountersthat one? And what does being “super-connected” happeninthe real world’ even mean?Itsoundedexhausting. Besides, my posting habits on Facebook, Instagram,Twitterandeveryothersocialnetwork TechVCshavealsotakentoboastingonTwitter MOORE have dwindled. All those revelations about the about their love of Clubhouse, reportedlyvalued psychologicalwargamesconductedbyalgorithms at morethan $100m, an invitation-onlynetwork PARTING SHOT and personal-data scrapes to feed the business that lets users join spontaneous audio chat room modelshavetakentheshineoff.Theriseinprofes- discussions.Clubhouse’s appeal is its exclusivity sional content has filledmyfeed with “parasocial –plus the possibilityofchattingtoMCHammer, Lessons from interactions”, aterm for one-sidedrelationships aBay Area local and earlyadopter.But users also coinedinthe 1950s to describethe wayTVpre- talkaboutthereliefofcommunicatingviaconver- lockdown: we senters addressedtheir audiencesdirectly. The sation, which is ephemeral, rather than photos or phrase nails howmany of us feel about slick con- text that can linger online for ever. allneedsome tent creators on YouTube, TikTok, Twitter and Itisimpossibletoknowwhethermygoodexpe- Instagram and the passivity theyengender. rienceonLunchclubwasbecausetalkingisbetter But after morethan twomonths working from than texting,because the company has superior face-to-facetime home, Ireconsidered.Although work chat and matching abilities, or its small user base means it gossip have flowedthanks to instant messaging, cankeepacloseeyeonthingsrightnow. Probably it is not the same as real conversation. I’ve missed all of the above.Either way, I’maconvert.One of seeing new facesand having the kind of serendip- the criticisms levelledagainst Twitter,Facebook itousencountersthathappenwhenyou’reoutand and other social media apps that provide acon- about in the world. stantstreamofinformationfrommillionsofusers When it became clear that lockdown was is that humans arenot designedtoconnect with not going to end any time soon, Iclicked on the one another at such scale and speed.Itismuch Lunchclub link andjoined.The processwas easy harder to troll someone when youare speaking to enough. Iwrote ashort paragraph about myself them face to face. and let the magic of machine learning match me Right now, group-chat fatigue appears to have with another user.After an emailedintroduction kickedin.Theearlyexcitementoflockdownquiz- –withthecompanycopiedintokeepthingsabove zesand happyhours was hobbledbybad WiFi, board –Iarrangedavideocall. people talking overeach other and the distrac- Of course, when the time came to actually tion of seeing your ownface when speaking. But if speak to astranger,the awkwardness of the inter- socialdistancingisheretostay, wewillneedtofind action loomedlarge. What if youhavenothing new ways to meet and talk. Face-to-face interac- to talk about? Howdoyou end the call? Why put tionsaretheoneshumansarebestat–theyhelpus yourself in such aweird situation when youcould trustoneanotherandbuildempathy,evenonline. just watch Netflix? “Lol. Think of it likeawork Small-scaleisbest.Speakingtoastrangerone-on- date,”myfriend texted. “It’sfine. Abit awkward one on Lunchclub was less stressful than some of but interesting.” the big group calls I’ve beenonwith friends. What Ihad forgotten is that Americans are Making unexpectedconnections was always greatatchatting–farbetterthanusdiffidentBrits. one of of the bestparts of social media. Lockdown BeforeIcould text back with another set of objec- might be the moment we remember that. tions, acheerful face appeared on my screen. My connection, apolitical campaign manager from Elaine Mooreisdeputyeditor of the the US,was full of energyand readywith all sorts FT’s Lex column; [email protected] of things to talk about.Therewas no need to plan @ElaineDMoore. Gillian Tett is away

46 ILLUSTRATION BY SHONAGH RAEFT.COM/MAGAZINE JUNE 13/142020