>> BIRDING SITES BIRDING Birding Suriname Otte Ottema

Few birders currently visit Suriname but, as the country’s top ornithologist explains, they are missing a treat. In addition to offering several that are difficult to see elsewhere, there remains much potential for visitors to make interesting discoveries.

The endemic Arrowhead minutissimus is very common in Paramaribo, but best picked up on voice (Foek Chin Joe)

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n the Guianan Shield in northern South The large Brazilian savanna associated with the rio America lies a forgotten country, Suriname. Paru extends north into southern Suriname as the OEcotourism was enjoyed here even before savanna. Finally, five major rivers snake the word existed. But the combination of a northwards across the country. military coup in 1980 and a civil war from In this article, I give an overview of the main 1986–1992 led to the country dropping off the birding areas in Suriname. I focus on sites that birding radar. Given the country’s bounteous give birders a good chance of seeing the country’s biodiversity, it is time that this unfortunate target species and reflect the diversity of its situation were reversed. . In total, 727 species have been recorded Suriname is largely covered by pristine in Suriname (see www1.nhl.nl/~ribot/english/), rainforest, but also houses a treasure trove of including seven Near Threatened species and one ecosystems within a territory slightly smaller than recently described taxon (Sulphur- breasted Florida. Vast mudflats are very important for Parakeet Aratinga pintoi; not yet accepted by the North American shorebirds. A small band of South American Classification Committee) that is fringes the coast, protecting likely to be considered Endangered in BirdLife saline and brackish swamps and lagoons from the International’s 2009 Red List update. Birders sea. Inland lie huge freshwater swamps, then the should note that travel in Suriname is very savanna belt and finally the rainforest, which difficult, and many places can only be reached by extends over upland features such as mountain plane. There are thus clear practical benefits in ridges, a few bauxite plateaus, several inselbergs contracting a local company/guide (for which see (or monadnocks, isolated outcrops) and a tepui. the box Contact details and further information).

Map of Suriname showing the location of key birding sites and Important Areas (BirdLife International)

62 Neotropical Birding 4 Paramaribo Trumpeter Psophia crepitans, which have become so habituated that they can be photographed at Suriname’s capital, Paramaribo, is a good place for just 5 m range. Three Black Curassows Crax birding, lying in what is expected to be designated alector often join the feast, and an Ornate Hawk- as a new Endemic Bird Area in the future. More Spizaetus ornatus regularly comes close to than 450 species have been seen in the city and its the lodge, attracted to the plentiful large lizards of environs. Three species that will shortly be the Ameiva. classified as restricted- range taxa can usually be The Brownsberg total of nearly 400 species seen around town in a single day. Rufous Crab includes 20 and specialities such as Hawk aequinoctialis inhabits White- throated Pewee Contopus albogularis, Red- mangrove north of the city. Blood- coloured and- black Grosbeak Periporphyrus erythromelas Veniliornis sanguineus and the (more common in Suriname than elsewhere in its endemic Arrowhead Piculet Picumnus range1), White- fronted Lepidothrix minutissimus occur in the ‘Cultuurtuin’ or serena, White- throated Manakin Corapipo ‘Peperpot’. The piculet is very common and, if you gutturalis and Sharpbill Oxyruncus cristatus. know its call, can be found in many big trees in Ringed Woodpecker torquatus occurs here Paramaribo. Blackish (as well as at the following two sites); this species nigrescens and Ashy- headed Greenlet Hylophilus is rare and difficult to find throughout its range. pectoralis are easy to find. Spectacular such as Scarlet Ibis Eudocimus ruber, Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja and Wood Stork Mycteria Central Suriname Nature Americana can be seen at Warapa creek, which is now accessible by boat and can be reached in a Reserve few hours. The Central Suriname Nature Reserve (CSNR) has a long history of birdwatching; it incorporates the former Raleighvallen/Voltzeberg nature reserve, The savanna belt which was considered a “birdwatcher’s paradise” The mosaic of habitats that makes up the savanna by those who visited it some 50 years ago. Created belt produces a very rich and interesting in 1998 by Conservation International and the landscape. With a bit of luck here, birders can see Suriname government, CSNR was subsequently three species with limited distributions in designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site 2000 Suriname: Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus, for its pristine tropical rainforest ecosystem. Burnished- buff Tanager Tangara cayana and the STINASU operates comfortable lodges at different nominate subspecies of Black- faced Tanager prices near Raleighvallen on Foengoe Island and a Schistochlamys melanopis, which is restricted to hammock camp near Voltzeberg, 2–5 hours walk the east Guianas2. Three generally scarce and away. localised species— Bronzy More than 500 bird species have been leucogastra, Saffron- crested Tyrant- Manakin recorded in the reserve’s 16,000 km2 of lowland Neopelma chrysocephalum and Black Manakin and montane and primary forest. The biggest atronitens — are common in Suriname’s attraction is the largest known lek of Guianan stunted white- sand dwarf forests; a good site to Cock- of- the- rock Rupicola rupicola. Although the search is Hollandse kamp. The Powakka savanna breeding season is restricted to December–April, holds the rare Pale- bellied Mourner Rhytipterna more than 50 males display year around. immunda and the endemic subspecies On Foengoe, the airstrip is an extremely good albomarginatus of Swainson’s Flycatcher place to watch Blue- throated Piping Guan Pipile Myiarchus swainsoni . cumanensis, toucans, parrots and macaws in the morning. The nearby forest is a good spot for the spectacular Capuchinbird Perissocephalus tricolor. The trail to Voltzeberg is a good area to bump into The Brownsberg Nature Park, a bauxite plateau at mixed species flocks, and more than 30 species of 450 m altitude, is managed by STINASU antbirds occur. This may be the best spot to find (Foundation for Nature Conservation in Suriname, the rare Boat- billed Tody- Tyrant Hemitriccus the BirdLife Affiliate in the country). Facilities josephinae, the taxonomically controversial Rose- comprise several comfortable chalets, a hammock breasted Chat Granatellus pelzeni and Collared camp and a restaurant. Leftovers from the latter Gnatwren Microbates collaris . attract a group of the normally shy Grey- winged

Neotropical Birding 4 63 64 Neotropical Birding 4 Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Black Curassow Crax alector feeds on restaurant leftovers at Brownsberg Nature Park (Chris Collins) The unmistakeable Rufous Crab Hawk Buteogallus aequinoctialis can be seen in north of Paramaribo (Chris Collins) Crimson Topaz Topaza pella often hawks for insects above the canopy, but can be seen in the garden of the restaurant at Arapahu (Nick Athanas/Tropical Birding) A scarce species, Crimson Fruitcrow Haematoderus militaris is unusual amongst its family for mainly feeding on insects rather than fruit (Chris Collins) Ringed Woodpecker Celeus torquatus is a target species for birders visiting Suriname: this confiding individual Above, bottom left: This female Black Manakin Xenopipo gave views down to 5 m for half- an- hour (Candy atronitens is sitting on only second- ever nest discovered McManiman) for this species (Foek Chin Joe) Blood- coloured Woodpecker Veniliornis sanguineus is Above, bottom right: The bizarre Capuchinbird best looked for around Paramaribo (Chris Collins) Perissocephalus tricolor can be found at Central Above, top: Seeing a ritual fight between two Guianan Suriname Nature Reserve and Palumeu (Chris Collins) Cock- of- the- rocks Rupicola rupicola is a rare and enthralling experience (Sylvain Cordier) Neotropical Birding 4 65 >> BIRDING SITES BIRDING SURINAME

Around the Voltzberg itself, a 240-m- high airstrips. Most of the 1,000 visitors per year opt inselberg that can be climbed by fit people in 30 for the former route, traveling c.185 km south minutes, there are at least three territories of the from Paramaribo to Witagron. From Witagron, a rare and near- endemic Band- tailed Antshrike 3-hour boat trip up the River Coppename brings Thamnophilus melanothorax, but finding this birders to the reserve headquarters on Foengo unobtrusive species is not straightforward. At Island. dawn the forest resonates to the vocalisations of tinamous, woodcreepers and a trio of forest falcons: Slaty- backed Micrastur mirandollei, Lined Boven Coesewijne M. gilvicollis and Barred M. ruficollis. Atop the Nature Reserve inselberg, Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea is almost guaranteed, and birders should scan for The 27,000-ha Boven Coesewijne Nature Reserve rare swifts: both White- collared Swift (BCNR) is c.100 km from Paramaribo. The reserve Streptoprocne zonaris and White- chinned Swift recently opened to tourists and benefits from a Cypseloides cryptus have been seen (the latter conservation programme managed jointly by recently discovered in Suriname1 and very local STINASU, WWF- Guianas and the government’s throughout its range), and Chapman’s Swift Nature Conservation Division. STINASU has a Chaetura chapmani is fairly common. small lodge (for six people) and a hammock camp. Suriname’s only tepui, the Tafelberg (literally, For access details, contact STINASU. Boven table mountain) lies in the CSNR. Tropical Gem Coesewijne is well known for its unique brown- Tours have a comfortable guesthouse near the sand savanna, Amazonian Manatee Trichechus airstrip in the nearby Rudi Kappel savanna. inunguis and Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis Saffron- crested Tyrant- Manakin, Bronzy Jacamar (although these shy mammals are very difficult to and Black Manakin are common in the stunted see). forest. Discovered here in 2005 (own data), Despite little research, more than 300 bird Pelzeln’s Tody- Tyrant Hemitriccus inornatus can species have already been recorded at BCNR. The be found easily; this very rare species was gallery forest bordering the River Coeswewijne is previously considered endemic to and only good for birding, with antbirds including Silvered rediscovered there in 1992. In the savanna, the Antbird Sclateria naevia and Black- chinned target species are Black- billed Thrush Turdus Antbird Hypocnemoides melanopogon (both very ignobilis and Point- tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia common) as well as Guianan Streaked Antwren rikeri. Chestnut- bellied Seed Finch Oryzoborus Myrmotherula surinamensis. The rare and near- angolensis, trapped to near- extinction elsewhere in endemic Glossy- backed Becard Pachyramphus Suriname, is very common here. surinamus has been seen. Along the river itself, The Tafelberg itself is also very good for Sungrebe Heliornis fulica occurs, and Boat- billed birding, but can only be reached by helicopter (see Heron Cochlearius cochlearius may be seen at box). Target birds here include Chestnut- tipped night. In the savanna, five species of nightjar, Toucanet Aulacorhynchus derbianus, Tepui including White- tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus Greenlet Hylophilus sclateri and Black- hooded cayennensis, are common, as are Grassland Thrush Turdus olivater. The most intriguing Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis and Wedge- denizen is an antvireo Dysithamnus sp. that tailed Grassfinch. You will need, however, resembles Plumbeous Antvireo D. plumbeus of considerable luck to come across Giant Snipe one of the forms tucuyensis or leucostictus, both of Gallinago undulata. which have strong claims to be full species. The presence of either form would represent a major Arapahu range extension, and it is not impossible that the Tafelberg birds represent an undescribed taxon2. Arapahu is an island in the upper River Corantijn White- collared Swift and White- chinned Swift in south- west Suriname; the river forms the breed at the tall Augustus waterfall, adjacent to border with . Access involves a 75-minute the helicopter landing- pad. Simple charter flight with Gum Air from Paramaribo to accommodation is available, visitors sleeping on Amotopo airstrip in Sipaliwini, an 800-m walk and mattresses on the floor of a two- storey wooden a 30-minute canoe journey. Accommodation is in building. well- equipped cabins, designed to resemble Access to the CSNR is by river and road (to traditional Bushnegro (indian) huts, managed by Raleighvallen only), or by plane to one of three Tropical Gem Tours.

66 Neotropical Birding 4 Wild rapids flank the southern part of CONTACT DETAILS AND FURTHER Arapahu. The area is underwatched, and its avifauna is likely to total many more than the 260- INFORMATION odd species recorded so far. Green Ibis Further details about the Central Suriname Nature Mesembrinibis cayennensis is common, as are Scarlet Macaw Ara macao, Red- and- green Macaw Reserve (CSNR) can be found at www. ci- A. chloroptera and Blue- and- yellow Macaw A. suriname.org/csnr/eng/Protected_Areas_Programme. ararauna. An additional five species of parrots are htm. For more information on Boven Coesewijne common, as are a quintet of toucans. Nature Reserve, see www.wwfguianas.org/our_work/ The liana forest on the Suriname side of the protected_areas/boven_coesewijne/index.cfm. River Corantijn is a good place to find Band- tailed STINASU (Foundation for Nature Conservation in Antshrike and McConnell’s Spinetail Synallaxis Suriname) is the country’s main national conservation macconnelli. Along the riverbanks, Ladder- tailed organisation. In addition to its conservation and Nightjar Hydropsalis climacocerca, Red- capped research programme, STINASU runs wildlife tours, with Cardinal Paroaria gularis, Blackish Antbird and profits directed towards conservation. For more Drab Water Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis are information, see www.stinasu.com or e- mail common. The garden around the restaurant [email protected]. Commercial tour operators include attracts many hummingbirds such as Crimson Tropical Gem Tours (www.mytropicalgemtours.com or Topaz Topaza pella and the cupreicauda e- mail: [email protected]) and METS Travel and subspecies of Green- bellied Hummingbird Tours (www.surinamevacations.com or e- mail Amazilia virdigaster. At the nearby ‘Muskita kriki’ [email protected]). Tropical Gem Tours is the sole contact creek, all five South American species of for Arapahu and Kappelairstrip, and METS Travel and kingfisher are common. Curve- billed Scythebill Tours likewise for Palumeu. To visit the Tafelberg in Campylorhamphus procurvoides is not rare, and CSNR, contact Hi- jet helicopter services (tel: 597 there is a chance of Sunbittern Europyga helias. 432577; e- mail: hi- [email protected]). To visit Kabalebo, e- mail [email protected]. Kabalebo Websites about birding in Suriname include Little birding has been done near the Kabalebo www.planktonik.com/birdingsuriname/index.html airstrip, 90 minutes flight from Paramaribo in (which also gives details of tours and birding sites) western Suriname, but the area’s potential is high. and www1.nhl.nl/~ribot/English/ (contains In addition to the species list of 300 or so are two photographs, country list and distribution maps). undescribed taxa that are the subject of further investigation (own data; apologies for my coyness!). Lodging is in a comfortable, air- near a village inhabited by Tareno and Wayana conditioned hotel. Seasonally flooded forests flank indians. the River Kabalebo, providing concealment for the Several trails made by indigenous people largely nocturnal Zigzag Heron Zebrilus extend far into the forest and provide birders with undulatus and for Green Ibis, which is access. One trail can be reached with a 40-minute very common. Away from the river, the terra firme boat trip that traverses several rapids. Along this forest is rich in woodcreepers, foliage- gleaners, trail, Chestnut- belted Gnateater Conopophaga antbirds and antthrushes. Boat- billed Tody- Tyrant aurita is fairly common, Capuchinbirds are vocal has been seen, and the borders of the liana forest and there is a chance of Band- tailed Antshrike. offer a fairly good chance to encounter Band- The elusive Cinnamon- crested Spadebill tailed Antshrike, McConnell’s Spinetail and Platyrinchus saturatus and the rare Cinnamon Speckled Spinetail gutturata. The Manakin- Tyrant Neopipo cinnamomea have also airstrip is good for toucans, parrots and macaws. been seen, and the lucky birder may come across a Harpy Eagle Harpia harpyja or Crested Eagle Morphnus guianensis (both Near Threatened). Palumeu The trail terminates at a low inselberg called Palumeu, on the River Tapanahoni in southern Potihill; this provides a viewpoint over the canopy Suriname, is 90 minutes flight from Paramaibo. that is a prime location from which to scan for the More than 400 species have been recorded. METS spectacular and rare Crimson Fruitcrow Travel and Tours have built comfortable Haematoderus militaris. Finally, along the river, accommodation in traditional Bushnegro style, Green Ibis is common.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I am grateful to Nick Athanas, Sylvain Cordier, Chris Collins, Foek Chin Joe and Candy McManiman for contributing photographs to this article.

REFERENCES 1. Ottema, O. (2004) Sight records of birds new to Suriname. 22: 103–104. 2. Ottema, O. & Chin Joe, F. (2006) Records of three bird species new to Suriname. Cotinga 26: 78–79. 3. Restall, R., Rodner, C. & Lentino, M. (2006) Birds of northern South America. London, UK: Christopher Helm.

OTTE OTTEMA Stichting Natuurbehoud Suriname (STINASU, Foundation for Nature Conservation in Suriname), Cornelis Jongbawstraat 14, P.O. Box 12252, Paramaribo, Suriname. E- mail: [email protected] or [email protected]

Clockwise from top right: Rose-breasted Chat Granatellus pelzeni may be a distinctive- looking species, but it remains a taxonomic conundrum. In Suriname, it can be seen at Central Suriname Nature Reserve (Chris Collins) Although generally rare in Suriname, Red- capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis is common at Arapahu (Chris Collins) Pale- bellied Mourner Rhytipterna immunda is rare and difficult to see (Candy McManiman)

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