Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) Enjoying Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is a beautiful place to explore and enjoy. From striking coastal scenery to picturesque rural countryside, it is a diverse Heathland landscape with plenty to offer both people and wildlife. In the Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB It is one of Britain’s finest landscapes and covers 403 km²/155 m² including historic towns and quaint little villages, windswept shingle beaches, ancient heaths and wild-life rich wetlands. AONBs are part of the UK ‘family’ of 46 AONBs in , Wales and Northern Ireland and are nationally protected landscapes cared for by locally accountable partnerships that promote and support effective long term management to keep them special.

Further Information www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Tel: 01394 384948 Email: [email protected]

This leaflet has been funded and published in partnership by the RSPB and Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB, supported by EU Life+ and Natura 2000. Natura 2000 - Europe’s nature for you. The Suffolk Sandlings heaths are part of the European Natura 2000 Network. They have been designated because they Four heaths to visit... host some of Europe’s most threatened species and habitats. All 27 countries and Heaths of the EU are working together through the Natura 2000 network to safeguard Europe’s rich and diverse natural heritage for the benefit of all. Tunstall and Commons Sutton and Commons

Text and design © Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB, 2014; cover photo by www.thesuffolkcoast.co.uk

1 2 3 4

The Suffolk Suffolk Sandlings Sandlings make make up one up ofone our of most our importantmost important landscapes. landscapes. An area of An grassland, area of gorse, grassland, scattered gorse, trees scattered and heather, trees found and on someheather, of the found poorest, on mostsome acidic of the soils poorest, in eastern most England, acidic the soils Sandlings in eastern support England, rare birds the and Sandlings a range of support characteristic rare birdsheath landand plantsa range andof characteristic animals. Open heathlandAccess legislation plants now and gives animals. us more Open opportunity Access legislationthan ever before now togives enjoy us these more beautiful opportunity places, thanbut care ever is neededbefore ifto theirenjoy wonderful these beautiful wildlife isplaces, to be saved but care for future is needed generations if their to wonderful enjoy. wildlife is to be saved for future generations to enjoy.

hehe Sandlings take theirtheir namename from from a anarrow narrow band band of of light, light, sandy sandy soils soils that that run Tree andand woodlandwoodland clearanceclearance continued continued until until the the 17th 17th Century. Century. Human Human settlements settlements runroughly roughly north-south north-south from from Southwold to the to eastern the eastern fringe fringeof . of Ipswich. The soil were usuallyusually on areasareas of of more more fertile fertile ground, ground, adjacent adjacent to heaths.to heaths. The The heathland heathland was T Thewas soilformed was fromformed material from washedmaterial out washed from theout ice from sheet the during ice sheet the lastduring ice age, usedwas used for a forrange a range of purposes: of purposes: gorse topsgorse were tops cut were for foddercut for for fodder animals, for animals,while the Tbetweenthe last ice 10,000 age, - 70,000between years 10,000 ago. As- 70,000 the ice retreatedyears ago. and As thethe climate ice retreated slowly andwarmed, the olderwhile partsthe older provided parts fuel. provided Trees werefuel. Treesalso cut were for fuel,also cutwhile for bracken fuel, while was brackengathered was for theclimate Sandlings slowly landscape warmed, wouldthe Sandlings have become landscape wooded. would Over have thousands become ofwooded. years animalgathered bedding, for animal fuel bedding,and also to fuel provide and also potash to provide for industries potash such for industriesas glass and such soap- as peopleOver thousands gradually of cleared years thepeople trees gradually and grazed cleared their animalsthe trees on and the grazedland, preventing their making.glass and Domestic soapmaking. animals were grazed on the heath and turf and peat were cut for theanimals regrowth on the of theland, forest preventing and leading the regrowth to a more ofopen the landscape, forest and not leading unlike to the a more fuel, a practice known as ‘turbary’. All these activities maintained the open nature of countryside we see today. theDomestic heath andanimals prevented were grazedit reverting on the back heath to woodland. and turf and peat were cut for fuel, open landscape, not unlike the countryside we see today. a practice known as ‘turbary’. All these activities maintained the open nature of The sandysandy soilssoils areare very very light,light, so so easy easy to to cultivate cultivate compared compared to tothe the clay-dominated clay-dominated Inthe the heath last century,and prevented the Sandlings it reverting heaths back have to changed woodland. dramatically. In the last Modern century, intensive the soils toto thethe west, west, but but also also acidic acidic and and relatively relatively infertile. infertile. Farmers Farmers were were able able to growto grow farmingSandlings methods, have changed commercial dramatically forestry, through military modernuse and urbanintensive development farming methods, have all crops onon the the land, land, but but the the nutrients nutrients in inthe the ground ground were were quickly quickly exhausted, exhausted, forcing forcing broughtcommercial change forestry, to the military Sandlings use and and much urban of development.the area’s heaths Over have 90% been of lost. the once people toto move move to to new new areas. areas. Plants Plants that that we we think think of oftoday today as heathlandas heathland species species Fortunately,continuous areathe importance of Sandlings’ of theheath heaths of medieval is now well times understood has been and lost. all Heathlands the gradually colonised thesethese areas, areas, thriving thriving in in the the more more open open landscape. landscape. Perhaps Perhaps as longas significanthave become remaining one of thefragments rarest andof the most Sandlings threatened are now habitats protected in the and world. under Britain some aslong 4,000 as years4,000 ago, years large ago, expanses large expanses of heathland of heathland had already had developed already developed in this area, in a formtoday of has conservation 58,000 hectares management. of lowland heathland, which is about 20% of the total patchworkthis area, a of patchwork grassland, of gorse, grassland, scattered gorse, trees scattered and heather. trees and heather. world resource. Fortunately, the importance of the heaths is now well understood Nationally, there are 58,000 hectares (about 143,000 acres) of lowland heathland in and all significant remaining fragments of the Sandlings are protected and under Grazing intensified withwith thethe introduction introduction of of sheep, sheep, around around 1,000 1,000 years years ago, ago, and and Britain today. This is about 20% of the total world resource. Over 80% of Britain's some form of conservation management. Heathland restoration started in the dominated farmingfarming inin thethe Sandlings Sandlings until until comparatively comparatively recently. recently. Apart Apart from from the the river lowland heathland has been lost since 1800 - 17% in the last 50 years. Today outside 1980s. Today many organisations work in partnership to keep, manage and valleysriver valleys that cutthat through cut through the area, the much area, of much this landof this had land become had becomea virtually a virtuallycontinuous Suffolk, lowland heathland is found in , Devon, Dorset, Hampshire, Surrey, re-create the Sandlings’ heaths for you and future generations to enjoy. areacontinuous of heath area through of heath which through huge flocks which of huge sheep flocks roamed, of sheepunder roamed,the care of under skilled the , Essex, Staffordshire, Pembrokeshire, west Glamorgan and west Gwynedd. shepherds.care of skilled This shepherds. means that This although means the that Sandlings although heaths the Sandlings may seem heaths like a natural ma Look inside to find out how to enjoy these beautiful places without harming their

landscape,seem like a they natural are reallylandscape, created they by people.are really created by people. Lookvulnerable inside vegetation to find out andhow sensitive to enjoy theseinhabitants. beautiful places without harming them.

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Natural Outstanding of Area Beauty Natural Outstanding of Area

Suffolk Coast and Heaths and Coast Suffolk Heaths and Coast Suffolk

Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB. Heaths and Coast Suffolk

raised by businesses who support conservation in the in conservation support who businesses by raised

Connect funds a wide range of projects using money using projects of range wide a funds Connect

Group, a member of Connect. Connect. of member a Group,

Thorpeness and Hotels Aldeburgh and

This leaflet has been funded by funded been has leaflet This

Text and design © Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB Unit, 2009 Unit, AONB Heaths and Coast Suffolk © design and Text

Sandlings Walk Sandlings Harwich

Main roads Main

[email protected] River Stour River Towns and villages and Towns

E-Mail: Additional project area project Additional

A137

AONB area AONB in the Suffolk Coast and Heaths and Coast Suffolk the in

Tel: 01394 384948 01394 Tel: River Orwell River

A14 Sandlings Heath Sandlings

A12

Contact

Sandlings Forest Sandlings

Deben

Key

Enjoying heathland Enjoying River Ipswich A14

www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org

Coast and Heaths website: Heaths and Coast

Ore Woodbridge

River Find out more by visiting the Suffolk the visiting by more out Find

Alde

Find out more out Find

A12

River

Aldeburgh

qualities and national importance. national and qualities

Sea receive special protection because of their unique their of because protection special receive

North includes our National Parks and Heritage Coasts. All Coasts. Heritage and Parks National our includes

A1120 AONBs are part of the UK’s ‘family’ of protected areas that areas protected of ‘family’ UK’s the of part are AONBs

working with others to achieve sustainable, sympathetic use. use. sympathetic sustainable, achieve to others with working

A144 Blyth

as a champion for the AONB, promoting its conservation and conservation its promoting AONB, the for champion a as

River

ordinated by the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Unit. The Unit acts Unit The Unit. Heaths and Coast Suffolk the by ordinated

Southwold

Halesworth

A Partnership of 26 organisations cares for the AONB, co- AONB, the for cares organisations 26 of Partnership A

A12

A145

rich wetlands and the historic Sandlings heaths. Sandlings historic the and wetlands rich

miles of countryside, including lowland coastal scenery, wildlife- scenery, coastal lowland including countryside, of miles

(AONB) is one of Britain’s finest landscapes. It covers 150 square 150 covers It landscapes. finest Britain’s of one is (AONB)

The Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Natural Outstanding of Area Heaths and Coast Suffolk The

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Natural Outstanding of Area

The Suffolk Coast and Heaths Heaths and Coast Suffolk The

1 Page 09:49 15/07/2010 leaflet Leaflet:heathland Heathland Enjoying 8626 8626 Enjoying Heathland Leaflet:heathland leaflet 15/07/2010 09:49 Page 2

Enjoying heathland Enjoyingin the Suffolk Coast heathland & Heaths AONB in the Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB 5678

TheThe HeathlandHeathland Visitor’sVisitor’s Code Code ThreeFour heaths heaths to visit...to visit... HeathlandHeathland wildlife wildlife DoDo your bitbit for for heathland heathland by followingby following these SuttonWestleton and Hollesley and Commons,Dunwich Heaths near Woodbridge, include some YouYou may may come come across across a wide a wide range range of plants of plants and and thesesimple simple suggestions: suggestions: makeof up the one finest of the lowland largest continuous heath to be areas found of in the wildlifewildlife if ifyou you visit visit the the Sandlings Sandlings heaths, heaths, especially especially SandlingsUK. Westletonheath. They Heath, are managed part of bywhich Suffolk is a National duringduring the the summer. summer. Look Look out out for: for: Plan ahead and follow any signs Plan ahead and follow any signs: WildlifeNature Trust Reserve, and Suffolk is managed Coastal Districtby Natural Council. England Open Access has allowed more opportunities to visit DartfordDartford Warbler warbler (1). (1)A small, A small, secretive, secretive, long long tailed Open access has allowed more opportunities to visit and the RSPB. Nearby is a unique tailed bird that is most likely to be seen perching heaths but there are still restrictions and some areas Free Access: Car parks (off B1083 and the Hollesley to bird that is most likely to be seen perching on top of heaths but there are still restrictions and some areas coastal heathland site, owned and managed by on top of heather or gorse. Recent mild winters are closed March – October. Make sure you have the Woodbridge road), picnic areas and nature trails. heather or gorse. Recent mild winters have enabled are closed March - October. Make sure you have the the National Trust. Free Access: Westleton Heath have enabled numbers to increase dramatically. latest information about when and where to go. Picnic Site is off the B1083 Melton to numbers to increase dramatically. latest information about when and where to go. car park lies to the north of the B1125 at road. TM306476. Upper Hollesley Picnic Site Red deer (2) One of five species of deer to occur TM 455695, between Westleton and Dunwich. Red deer (2). One of five species of deer to occur in Help your dog be a ‘Good Dog’! is off the Woodbridge to Hollesley road. TM335472. in Suffolk. These shy creatures are native to Britain Keep dogs under close control: For Dunwich Heath, continue eastwards along Suffolk. These shy creatures are native to Britain and National research shows that between a third and a and the largest wild mammals to be found here. the largest wild mammals to be found here. halfDogs of are countryside a real danger visitors to heathland have a dog wildlife, with farmthem. Facilities:the B1125The nearest before toilet taking and the refreshment well signposted facilities right However,animals and there even are people. concerns They about pose problemsa particular caused turn. There is a charge for parking at this site. Bell heather (3) A spectacular sight when in are in local towns and villages. Leaflets and signs are Bell heather (3). A spectacular sight when in flower. It threat to rare birds such as nightjar, woodlark and by a small minority of irresponsible owners to other availableSnape on-site Warren, for visitor an area information. of recently restored bloomsflower. from It blooms June until from August, June until slightly August, earlier slightly than stone curlew that rely on the Sandlings heaths to people, sensitive wildlife and protected landscapes, Sandlings heathland managed by the RSPB. It theearlier more thancommon the moreling heather common (7) ling, and heather takes its name(7), breed. All are well camouflaged, making it difficult to including on the heaths. Uncontrolled dogs often Tunstallprovides and Blaxhall a home Commons for many rareare fineheathland examples species, of fromand its takes colourful its name bell-shaped from its flowers.colourful bell-shaped know if they are present and, as they nest on the (inadvertently) threaten wildlife or upset recreation for Sandlingssuch heathsas adder, with tiger characteristic beetle or nightjar.wildlife andThis plant flowers. ground, it only needs one dog out of control to communities. Free Access: - car park Fly Agaric mushroom (4). One of many species of other people. TOP TIPS – look out for ‘on the lead’ or heathland is a blaze of purple in summer and its Fly agaric mushroom (4) One of many species completely ruin a nesting attempt. From March to July off the B1078. - Car park off the fungi to be found in the Sandlings. Although beautiful other official signs – there is probably wildlife around higher ground offers fine views across the wide inclusive, dogs must be kept on a short fixed lead on B1069 and off the to Tunstall road. Sandgalls of fungi to be found in the Sandlings. Although that needs some ‘quiet time’, especially during nesting to look at, they are poisonous and should not be eaten. access land and ‘under close supervision ‘ on Public PicnicAlde Site isestuary. off the ToB1069 maintain between the Tunstall open heath and for beautiful to look at, they are poisonous. time from March to July. Rare birds such as nightjar, Rights of Way. On some heathlands, this restriction is Snape.wildlife Footpaths and topeople Blaxhall to enjoy,Heath birch,and Tunstall pine and Forest Silver-studdedSilver-studded blue blue (5). One(5) One of the of UK’s the UK’s rarest rarest woodlark and stone curlew rely on the Sandlings extended to the end of August. Dogs must be on a nearby.gorse TM381559. scrub is kept low by regular grazing with butterflies.butterflies. A heathlandA heathland specialist, specialist, the theSandlings Sandlings is the is heaths to breed – they are well camouflaged and nest lead at all times when close to grazing animals. Exmoor ponies. Free Access: Snape Warren – Car Suffolkthe Suffolk stronghold stronghold for this for tiny this butterfly, tiny butterfly, which lives which on the ground. It is best not to let your dog roam Facilities:park The is off nearest Priory toilet Road and at Snape.refreshment TM 401584. facilities inlives small in colonies small colonies and flies and in Juneflies andin June July. and July. unsupervised,Prevent heathland and always fires: ‘Bag and Bin’ after your dog. are at Snape Maltings and local villages. Leaflets and Tunstall and Blaxhall Commons are fine Adder (6). signs are available for visitor information. Adder (6)A shy,A shy, secretive secretive animal, animal, belying belying its its PreventLowland heathlandheaths can be fires dry places, especially in examples of Sandlings heaths with characteristic dangerousdangerous reputation. reputation. An An adder’s adder’s bite bite is unlikely is unlikely to be spring and summer. Fires started by careless wildlife and plant communities. Free Access: Lowland heaths can be dry places, especially in spring Westleton and Dunwich Heaths include some of the fatalto bebut fatal these but snakes these are snakes best avoided are best and avoided are a goodand behaviour may kill animals and plants and ruin a Tunstall Common – Car park off the B1078. and summer. Fires started by careless behaviour may finest lowland heath to be found in the UK. Westleton reasonare a togood keep reason dogs on to a keep lead. dogs on a lead. beautiful landscape. It only needs one discarded kill animals and plants and ruin a beautiful landscape. Heath,Blaxhall part of Commonwhich is a – National Car park Nature off the Reserve, B1069 andis cigarette to spell disaster, so please take special care WoodlarkWoodlark (8). (8)Secretive, Secretive, ground ground nesting nesting birds, birds, often It only needs one discarded cigarette to spell disaster, managedoff the by NaturalIken to TunstallEngland road. and the Sandgalls RSPB. Nearby Picnic Site - do not light open fires or BBQs and obey any foundoften close found to theclose more to thewooded more heathland wooded heathlandareas. so please take special care – do not light open fires or Dunwichis off Heath the B1069 is a unique between coastal Tunstall heathland and Snape. site, restrictions. Althoughareas. The resident Sandlings throughout is an important the year, theyhome are for a rare this ownedFootpaths and managed to Blaxhall by the Heath National and Trust. Tunstall Forest BBQs and obey any restrictions. speciesrare species, and the whichSandlings is resident is an important throughout site forthe them. year. Protect wildlife and take your litter home: nearby. TM 381559. Protect wildlife and take your litter home Nightjar (9) Mysterious, nocturnal birds with an Location:Sutton Westleton and Hollesley Heath car Commons, park lies to thenear north of Nightjar (9). Mysterious, nocturnal birds with an WeWe allall havehave aa responsibility to protectprotect heathland heathland for for extraordinary “churring” song, most likely to be the B1125Woodbridge, at TM455695, make between up one Westleton of the largest and extraordinary “churring” song, most likely to be heard futurefuture generations generations to enjoy.enjoy. Please Please do do not not damage, damage, Dunwich. For Dunwich Heath, continue eastwards heard at dusk. They return in May from Africa to remaining continuous areas of Sandlings heath. at dusk. They return in May from Africa each year to destroydestroy or or removeremove animalsanimals or plants. WhereverWherever along the B1125 before taking the well signposted right breed on the Sandlings heaths. Nightjars nest on They are managed by the breed on the Sandlings heaths. Nightjars nest on the possible,possible, pleaseplease keep to existingexisting pathspaths and and remember remember turn. There is a charge for parking at this site. the ground and are very vulnerable to disturbance. and District Council. Free Access: ground and are very vulnerable to disturbance. thatthat droppingdropping litterlitter and dumping rubbish is aa criminal Photographs: Gorse (10) It is said that when gorse is in flower, criminal offence. Car parks are off B1083 andFacilities: the Hollesley Westleton to Gorse (10). It is said that when gorse is in flower, offence. Cover: Westleton National Nature Reserve kissing is in season. Fortunately, it flowers virtually by MalcolmWoodbridge Farrow road, picnicHeath areas circularand nature walks trails. kissing is in season. Fortunately, it flowers virtually ConsiderConsider other people:people 1: Bill Baston/FLPASutton Heath Picnic Site isleaflet off the is available B1083 Melton from throughoutthroughout the the year, year, bringing bringing colour colour to the to theheaths! heaths! 2: Simon Litten/FLPA HeathlandHeathland is is a a workingworking landscapelandscape and your actions can to Bawdsey road. TM 306476.both Westleton Upper Hollesley Heath Green tiger beetle (11) An unmistakable 3,4,5,7,10,11: Malcolm Farrow Green tiger beetle (11). An unmistakable heathland affectcan affect other other people’s people’s livelihoods. livelihoods. Avoid Avoid blocking blocking gates, 6: RobinPicnic Chittenden/FLPA Site is off the Woodbridgecar park andto Hollesley from heathland resident and one of the UK’s most resident and one of the UK’s most striking insects. drivesgates, ordrives other or entrances other entrances when whenyou park you your park vehicle. your 8: Paul Hobson/FLPAroad. TM 335472. RSPB Visitor striking insects. vehicle. Use stiles and other access points provided 9: Wim Klomp/Foto Natura/FLPA Centre. Cafe, toilets Use stiles and other access points provided and leave 12: BijlsmaPhotographs: and Ruiter/Foto (1) Bill Natura/FLPA Baston/FLPA; (2) Simon Litten/FLPA; (3), (4), (5), HobbyHobby (12). (12)A summerA summer visitor visitor to theto the Sandlings. Sandlings. The and shop are located at gatesand leave as you gates find as them. you find Please them. leave Please livestock leave and Map: Crown(7), (10) copyright. and (11) All Malcolm rights reserved. Farrow; (6) Robin Chittenden/FLPA; (8) agileThe flight agile of flight this dashingof this dashing falcon makes falcon it makes a it a livestock and machinery alone. © SuffolkPaul County Hobson/FLPA; Council. (9) Wim Klomp/Fotoboth Natura/FLPA; Dunwich (12)Heath Bijlsma and machinery alone. LicenceRuiter/Foto LA100023395 Natura/FLPA. Map: Crown copyright. All rights reserved. spectacularspectacular sight. sight. © Suffolk County Council. Licence andLA100023395. Minsmere. 9 10 11 12