Salwar Kameez Designing for College Going Girls
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International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT) ISSN(P): 2250-2378; ISSN(E): 2319-4510 Vol. 4, Issue 5, Oct 2014, 11-20 © TJPRC Pvt. Ltd. SALWAR KAMEEZ DESIGNING FOR COLLEGE GOING GIRLS S. LAKSHMI MANOKARI1 & E. KIRTHIGA2 1Head, Department of Costume Design and Fashion, Kongu Arts and Science College, Erode, Tamil Nadu, India 2Postgraduate Student, Department of Costume Design and Fashion, Kongu Arts and Science College, Erode, Tamil Nadu, India ABSTRACT Kameez and Salwar are becoming popular dress all around India being of comfort and look. They are available in readymade as well as custom-made. Most of the people prefer custom-made Salwar Kameez than readymade since it reflects the unique sense of style, choice of fabrics and colors. Hence, the main aim of this study is to design a basic pattern, layout, cutting and stitching details for the Salwar Kameez using pattern making software. A survey was carried out before developing the pattern. It was found through a survey that 80% of respondents are willing to make their own Salwar Kameez because of the reasons like cost saving, perfect fit, and desired designs and lack of quick delivery of the garment by the dressmakers. The developed instruction was used to construct the Salwar kameez for different chest sizes and the fit of the garment was evaluated through wear study. A Fit evaluation scale was prepared. It was found that there was 100% satisfaction in salwar and Kameez fit. The present research work will be beneficial to customize their personal Salwar Kameez. KEYWORDS: Salwar Kameez, Neckline Designs, Styles of Salwar Kameez, Pattern Making and Fitting INTRODUCTION The salwar kameez has emerged as the most popular Indian garment today. Besides comfort, it offers better leg movement than a sari, it is easy to wash and wear and covers the whole body (Mehra 2002). Salwars are pyjama-like trousers drawn tightly in at the waist and the ankles. Over the salwars, women wear a long and loose tunic known as a kameez (Chander 2003). Salwar kameez are available in Readymade as well as custom-made. The main difference between a readymade and the custom-made salwar kameez is in the finishing touches. Colourful piping, fancy trims, decorative necklines, sparkly tassels or additional borders are enhanced in custom-made. Majority of Indian ladies get salwar kameez outfits custom-made. Though there are ready made salwar kameez available, they may not meet all the expectations of correct fit, specific neckline designs and specific embellishments. So, Indian ladies shop for the fabrics and colors of their choice, and get their dress custom-made. As majority of ladies prefer to customize their own salwar kameez they must have pattern making knowledge. Pattern making is the art of constructing a pattern to make a perfect fitting garment. It is started as far back as fifteen century which is one of the first steps taken to manufacture well-tailored clothing. It requires a lot of technical skills, knowledge and practice. Patternmaking in today’s computerized age is done by computers for the fast pace fashion industry. It is based on using measurements relating to the contour of the body (Khurana 2012). Body measurements are a www.tjprc.org [email protected] 12 S. Lakshmi Manokari & E. Kirthiga prerequisite to pattern construction. The size and fit of a garment depends upon their accuracy. Body measurements are required not only for stitching the garment at home or getting it stitched, but also for buying readymade garments (Beazley and Bond 2004).In the present study, the investigators analyzed the respondent’s opinion regarding the salwar kameez preferences, fitting problems and preferences in various styles of salwar kameez. In addition, we also analyzed the willingness to design their own salwar kameez. Based on the need of the college going girls, the investigators developed the basic pattern for salwar and kameez with various neckline designs. METHODS The Sample The respondents were undergraduate and postgraduate students of various arts and Science College in Erode and have personal purchasing experience in salwar kameez and they wear this garment as college wear. Pilot Study After constructing the questionnaire, a pilot study was done with 10 senior academicians with expertise in the subject matter and 20 participants were involved before commencing the actual survey. Minor revisions of the questionnaire were done after the pilot study. Collection of Primary Data The primary data was collected through a questionnaire. The questionnaire was distributed to 200 college girls using Non-probability convenience sampling during November - December 2013. The questionnaire consists of demographic profile, preference for readymade/ custom-made, satisfaction of fit and fitting problems, willingness to design their own salwar kameez and choices of salwar kameez styles. To have clear understanding and easy recognition of different styles of Salwar and kameez by the respondents Figure 1 and 2 were included in the questionnaire. The collected data were consolidated and analyzed systematically using SPSS 16 software Figure 1: Different Styles of Salwar: (A) Plain Salwar (B) Patiala (C) Churidhar (D) Dhoti (E) Harem (F) Parallel Impact Factor (JCC): 2.9594 Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0 Salwar Kameez Designing for College Going Girls 13 Figure 2: Different Styles of Kameez: (A) Plain Kameez (B) Anarkali (C) Asymmetric (D) Angarakha (E) Princess Line (F) Achkan Collection of Secondary Data The secondary data were obtained from books and web sources. Developing Basic Pattern for Salwar and Kameez After collecting the opinions from primary data and the literature review from secondary data, the investigator developed the basic pattern, layout, cutting and stitching details for salwar and kameez using pattern making Tuka CAD software. Plain Kameez Measurements Required Chest, Waist, Hip, Full length, Front Waist length, Shoulder, Front neck, Back neck, Sleeve length, Upper arm and Lower arm Instructions for Drafting 0-1= Back neck depth, 0-2= Front neck depth, Shape front and back neckline, 3-3a= ½” for shoulder slope, 4 -4a = ¼” to ½”,Shape front (3a-4a) and back (3a-4) armscye and shape side seam as shown in the figure 5-6 = 4” to 5” from waistline for slit opening. (Figure 3) Seam Allowances for Kameez Neckline- 1/4", Shoulder- 1/2”, Armscye- ¼”, Side seam- ¾”, Bottom hem- 1” Plain Sleeve Join 0-1 and divide 0-1 into 6 equal parts and mark as a, b, c, d & e, a-f = 0.4”, b-g = 0.65”, d-h = 0.4”, e-i = 0.25”, Shape 0, f, g, d, i, 1 for back armscye, Shape 0, f, c, h, i, 1 for front armscye (figure 4) Seam Allowances for Sleeve Top - ¼”, Side seam - ¾”, Bottom turnings -1 ½” Cutting Instructions www.tjprc.org [email protected] 14 S. Lakshmi Manokari & E. Kirthiga Front- 1, Back-1, Sleeve-2, facing piece- 2 Layout The layout of kameez is shown in Figure 5 Stitching Details • Finish the neckline with facing • Stitch both the shoulders together with right sides facing each others. • Finish the sleeve hem • Then stitch the sleeves to the armscye, take care to stitch front part of sleeve to front side and back accordingly • Then stitch front and back side seam together leaving slit opening on both sides, (start stitching from the end of sleeves). • Fold and stitch the slit open from bottom to slit mark. • Place the needle on fabric and lift the pressure foot, turn the fabric stitch on seam allowances. Then turn and fold the other side of the slit open and stitch it. • Trim the edges of side seam with pinking scissors or give overlock stitch. • Finish the slit and fold the bottom by double row of stitches for neat finish Figure 3: Quick View of Kameez Impact Factor (JCC): 2.9594 Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0 Salwar Kameez Designing for College Going Girls 15 Figure 4: Quick View of Sleeve Figure 5: Layout of Kameez Plain Salwar Measurements Required Waist band length, Hip circumference, Salwar length, Bottom round Instructions for Drafting The instructions for drafting salwar is presented in Figure 6 Seam Allowances for Salwar Waist band-Top – 2”, Side seam-3/4”Bottom- ½” Salwar-Top- ½”, Side seam-3/4”, bottom-1” Layout of Salwar The layout of salwar is presented in Figure-7 Stitching Details • Fold and finish the bottom hem of each leg. • Join the Centre front and center back of crotch line and the waist band. • Then finish the waist hem by double fold the fabric for casing at the top of the waist band. • Adjust the width of the leg piece with waist band piece by making pleats in the leg piece. • Start stitching pleats near the crotch seam by leaving 1 ½” to 2” away from the crotch seam. www.tjprc.org [email protected] 16 S. Lakshmi Manokari & E. Kirthiga • Similarly make pleats for the other side. • Then join the leg pieces to the waist band. • Join the inside leg seams starting from the bottom of the leg. • Prepare a tying string of ½” to 3/4” width from the balance material. • Length of string must be atleast 6” longer than waist band width. • Finally insert the cloth tape to the waist hem and press the garment. • Developing Neckline Designs for Kameez • The investigator developed various neckline designs for kameez using the designing software -CorelDraw (Figure 8). Figure 6: Quick View of Salwar Figure 7: Layout of Salwar Impact Factor (JCC): 2.9594 Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0 Salwar Kameez Designing for College Going Girls 17 Figure 8: Neckline Designs Evaluation of Constructed Salwar and Kameez The developed pattern instruction was used to construct the salwar kameez for different chest sizes (30”, 31”, 32”, 33”, 34”, 35”, 36”, 38” and 40”).