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Tropical Birding Tour Report

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Tropical Birding Tour Report Costa Rica: The Introtour February 12 – 22, 2010 Tour Leader: Scott Olmstead Report and photos by Scott Olmstead. Resplendent Quetzal at Savegre This tour is designed as a Costa Rica sampler, with short stays at four famous birding sites: La Selva, Monteverde, Savegre, and Carara. With nine days in the field we manage to hit several of the country’s bioregions and take full advantage of Costa Rica’s incredible bird diversity. On this trip we visit the rich lowland rainforest on both the Caribbean and Pacific sides of the Continental Divide, the mist-enshrouded cloud forest of Monteverde, the majestic oak forests of the Talamanca Cordillera, the Pacific mangroves, and more. The wish-list of birds is surely topped by the breathtaking Resplendant Quetzal , with spectacular species like Keel-billed Toucan , Violet Sabrewing , Turquoise-browed Motmot , and Great Green Macaw making up the supporting cast. Timed for the dry season, we typically do not worry much about rain (although anything can happen at La Selva). At the end of the trip you will be ready to plan your next trip back to explore more of this friendly Central American country! Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 1 Feb. 12 – For those that arrived in time, there was birding to be done on the grounds of the hotel, with Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl being one of the star birds. After dark we gathered for a scrumptious welcome dinner and then drifted off to sleep, dreaming of new places and birds. Feb. 13 – We gathered just after dawn for a pre-breakfast stroll around the garens at the Hotel Bougainvillea. Red-billed Pigeon was seen carrying sticks to a nest under construction, Blue- crowned Motmot showed well, and we marveled at a group of at least 12 Baltimore Orioles foraging in the same flowering tree! After a wonderful buffet breakfast we hit the road and headed toward the Caribbean slope, driving down through the magnificent cloud forests of Braulio Carrillo National Park. In the foothills we stopped at Quebrada Gonzalez for a walk in the forest. Right out of the bus Brian spotted a smart Tiny Hawk perched in a distant treetop! That’s how I like to start a day in the field! Once in the forest we found some excellent flocks led by Tawny-crested and Carmiol’s Tanagers , with Black-and-yellow and Blue-and-gold Tanagers mixed in. A group of Lattice-tailed Trogons did their best to distract us from the flocks by chasing each other around. We enjoyed the trogons but then quickly switched gears again as another flock came by; this time we noted Tawny-capped Euphonia and White- throated Shrike-Tanager , among others. By late morning the skies opened up and we finished out walk in the rain. Arriving back at the car park a bit soggy, our enthusiasm was immediately revived when we discovered a small army ant swarm attracting Dusky-faced Tanagers and Northern Barred-Woodcreepers . After lunch we spent a couple of hours birding the private El Tapir reserve, where the flowering Stachytarpheta was attracting several handsome Violet-headed Hummingbirds . We also found a nice mixed flock with Black-faced Grosbeaks and an Emerald Tanager . By late afternoon it was time to drive down to the La Selva field station, operated by the Organization for Tropical Studies. We began by birding some forest edge habitat along the entrance track, where Margaret spotted our first Pale-billed Woodpecker of the trip. We closed the day watching a family group of six Band-backed Wrens taking a communal dust bath, quite a comical sight. Band-backed Wrens at La Selva Feb. 14 – A light rain fell for most of the night, stopping only just before dawn and we awoke to a thick, misty overcast. Before breakfast we walked through the regrowth habitat between the cabins and the cafeteria; my concern on this outing is always that we will be overcome by too many new birds and miss breakfast! Fortunately we had just enough time. On the trail we had a special encounter with three Gray-necked Wood-Rails foraging on the path, and were Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 2 privileged to observe these birds chasing each other and calling softly as they walked almost close enough to touch, hardly concerned with us at all. Before breakfast we had also picked up Fasciated Antshrike , Slaty-tailed Trogon , Red-throated Ant- Tanager , and Rufous-winged Woodpecker . A Semiplumbeous Hawk (photo left) perched calmly by the suspension bridge seemed to be drying off from the night’s rain; La Selva may be the best place anywhere to see the usually reclusive forest raptor. After breakfast we set off for a walk in the forest but didn’t even make it across the bridge before we were stopped by the sight of a Broad-billed Motmot in a nearby tree and a group of Crested Guans flying across the Saripiquí River. The fruiting trees in the clearing we attracting a tremendous variety of birds as well, and we spent some time watching Chestnut-colored Woodpecker (photo right), White-vented , Yellow-crowned , and Olive-backed Euphonias , and Golden-hooded Tanagers , among others. The forest itself was a bit quiet, and while we had good views of Stripe- throated Hermit , Ochre-bellied Flycatcher , and Western Slaty-Antshrike , we certainly heard more birds than we saw. For example, a group of calling Purple-throated Fruitcrows came tantalizingly close but never revealed themselves. On the way back for lunch we spotted a Great Tinamou , clearly visible as it foraged at the forest edge. Great Curassows (photo below) were common in the clearing during our stay. After lunch, a short break, and a caffeine recharge for those who needed it, we birded the open areas along the entrance track for the first part of the afternoon, and saw some great birds in the process. A pair of Pied Puffbirds (photo below) showed well and then we spotted a Snowy Cotinga sitting up in a lone tree in the middle of a pasture. A group of five Great Green Macaws flew over breathtakingly close, providing excellent views of these endangered large parrots. (Listen to a recording of their raucous calls here .) Later in the afternoon we birded around the cabins, turning up Long-tailed Tyrant , Collared Araçari , Violaceous Trogon , White-ringed Flycatcher , Rufous-tailed Jacamar , more Great Green Macaws , and a lone Mantled Howler Monkey. After dinner the whole group went out for an optional post-dinner night walk in the forest, and no one was disappointed. We were fortunate to spotlight a Vermiculated Screech-Owl and from afar we heard the low muffled call of a Crested Owl . Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 3 Feb. 15 – We started the morning off with a Cinnamon Woodpecker near the cabins at dawn and then were delighted to see a male White-collared Manakin feeding in a fruiting Miconia right outside the cafeteria, visible from the breakfast table. A walk in the forest produced very satisfying views of two minute Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrants engaged in courting behavior in the understory – a nice break from craning our necks to try to see these tiny flycatchers and other canopy species high overhead! The satisfaction of watching the male pygmy-tyrant hovering beside the female right at eye level was almost matched by the frustration of trying to locate a ventriloqual Central American Pygmy-Owl . I enjoyed listening to each strophe as the owl sang longer and longer phrases before pausing to (seemingly) watch us searching in vain for his hiding place. However, after being taunted by his tooting for a half-hour with no success, we returned to the clearing. A Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer (photo below), perched near his favored Heliconia blooms, was a nice consolation. Nearby we watched a pair of White-collared Manakins bouncing around a thicket with much enthusiasm. Around the forest edges we added Olive-crowned Yellowthroat , Black-throated and Plain Wrens , and Orchard Oriole . A Short-tailed Hawk soaring overhead was being harassed by a group of four Orange-chinned Parakeets that flew in playful circles around the hawk. After lunch we departed La Selva, and after a short (yet hot and sweaty!) stop for Nicaraguan Seed-Finch , we set a course for Savegre. Late in the afternoon we found ourselves high in the Talamanca Cordillera. We turned off the Inter-American Highway and began driving down the narrow winding road to San Gerardo de Dota. Just before dusk we made a quick birding spot and found some typical high elevation species such as Sooty Thrush and Band-tailed Pigeon . Marcia spotted a small group of Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers perched in the treetops. Night was just setting in as we arrived at the famous Savegre Mountain Lodge. The hummingbirds would have to wait until tomorrow! Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com 4 Feb. 16 – Before breakfast we took a short trail behind the cabins, first finding Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush (photo next page) and Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch on the ground in the dimly-lit forest interior. Then our real quarry appeared, a glorious male Resplendent Quetzal . It was a typical first encounter with the quetzal, complete with plenty of oohs and ahhs. Fortunately it was the first of several encounters we would have! For the rest of the morning we had a long hike planned, so everyone took care to fill up on the fabulous pancakes. (Savegre definitely won the award for “best pancakes” on this trip.) We walked up the main track behind the lodge, slowly birding our way up the slope.
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