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Home , 1600s (decade), Ards (borough), Ards (territory), Ards and North Down, Ards peninsula, Ballyhalbert

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IT WAS 1606 when Scottish families began to settle in the and North , led by James Hamilton and Hugh Montgomery from Ayrshire, following the land deal they had struck with Con O’Neill of . In 1683, Montgomery’s grandson William (who is buried at Grey Abbey) wrote the first tourist trail of the area, entitled Description of Ardes Barony, in the County of Down . Many of the places he described can still be visited today.

COPELAND GRAHAM’S PORT ISLANDS BANGOR PORTAVO ABBEY CREBOY

MOVILLA ABBEY NEWTOWNARDS PRIORY SCRABO

S T R A BLACK N ABBEY G GREY F ABBEY O R A MAP FROM D

L BURIAL ISLE O Description of SKETRICK U CASTLE G Ardes Barony H ARDKEEN CASTLE in the County KIRKISTOWN CASTLEBOY CASTLE of Down ARDQUIN BALLYGALGET ABBACY CASTLE NEWCASTLE by WILLIAM QUINTIN MONTGOMERY CASTLE of , 1683

FOR MORE INFORMATION Visit North Down Museum , where Visit Cathedral Quarter’s new the Plantation Room houses Discover -Scots Centre the original Raven Corn Exchange, 1 –9 Victoria Street, FREE APP Maps and interactive exhibit. BT1 3GA AVAILABLE FROM ITUNES www.northdownmuseum.com www.discoverulsterscots.com AND GOOGLE PLAY Tel: 028 9127 1200 Tel: 028 9043 6710 A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 2

ULSTER-SCOTS HERI TAGE IN ARDS AND NO RTH DOWN visitardsandnorthdown.com | discoverulsterscots.com A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 3

JUST 18 MILES TO SCOTLAND People have been visiting for thousands of years. Our area is dotted with dolmens, cairns and raths from ancient times – and our close proximity to Scotland is a big part of our story.

Local tradition says that St Patrick Hamilton and Montgomery Centuries of Connections arrived at Templepatrick just Smith failed to oust the O’Neills It was these Scottish settlers of south of Donaghadee, having left of Castlereagh , but over 30 years the 1600s that transformed Ards Portpatrick in Scotland. Viking later Ayrshiremen James Hamilton and North Down. In 1606 there raiders gave Lough and Hugh Montgomery struck a were only a few ‘ruined churches’ its name, Anglo-Normans like the deal with Con O’Neill . In May 1606 and ‘roofless cabins’. What you Savages built abbeys and castles. they started to bring boatloads of can see today is largely a result A branch of the O’Neills moved in Scottish families to our shores. of centuries of Ulster-Scots thrift, and remained until the 1570s Working with the O’Neills, and also graft and perseverance. From when Sir Thomas Smith attempted the Savage family, Lowland Scots towns and villages to our rolling but failed to establish an English settled from the River Lagan all landscape and place names, and here with a new city, a the way to the bottom of the the ‘wee’ turns of phrase you’ll ‘little ’, called Elizabetha. Peninsula. Their surnames can overhear when talking to the older still be found all over the Ards locals, all of Ards and North Down and North Down today. is in some way Ulster-Scots.

U G H L O MAP OF ARDS S T A F AN D NORTH DOWN, L E MAY 1606 B BANGOR Many Scottish families settled here; others moved COUNCIL DONAGHADEE on to other parts of Ulster, BOUNDARY others came across in the centuries which followed.

DUNDONALD NEWTOWNARDS

O’NEILL Con O’Neill’s castle and power CASTLE REAGH S BALLYWALTER base was at Castlereagh. COMBER T R GRE YABBEY The O’Neills retained A N LOWER in this area, indicated in white. G F ‘GREAT’ O R ARDS BALLYHALBERT D

L KIRCUBBIN O U

G

SAINTFIELD H HILLSBOROUGH COUNCIL CLOUGHEY BOUNDARY UPPER ‘LITTLE’ Many Scottish families ARDS settled in the Savage HAMILTON PORTAFERRY estates known as the Upper Ards or Little MONTGOMERY Ards. The Savages STRANGFORD SAVAGE leased land to Hamilton Based on a map shown in The Scottish Migration to Ulster and Montgomery. in the Reign of James I by Michael Perceval-Maxwell (1973) A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 4

BANGOR Bangor is an ancient Christian and monastic site. Under Sir James Hamilton the town grew rapidly and by 1611 it contained 80 new houses ‘all inhabited with Scotyshmen and Englishmen’. In 1613 Bangor received a charter of incorporation from the King. In the late 1600s the Ward family of married into the Hamiltons. Busy streets like Hamilton Road , The Vennel (a common street name in lowland Scotland) and even Pickie (an Ulster-Scots word for a young coalfish) carry on the connections. Scottish country dancing was a popular activity at Pickie on Saturday afternoons during the 50s and 60s.

Sir James Hamilton Bangor Castle garden features a ‘chapiter’, brought from Africa by © , Castle Ward Admiral James Hamilton Ward (1802 –1873)

Bangor Abbey North Down Museum Tower House The church contains a fascinating The Museum, attached to Bangor The Tower House in Bangor is the collection of early 17th-century Castle, is near the site of Sir most important 17th-century port church monuments, including James Hamilton’s original home. building surviving in Ulster. It

one to Rev. John Gibson (d. 1623), Among the Museum's prized was built as a custom-house in the first Protestant minister in possessions is the beautiful set of 1637 by Sir James Hamilton who the parish, and another to Beatrix maps of Bangor and surrounding had ambitions to develop Bangor Hamilton (d. 1633), the wife of townlands drawn for Hamilton by into an important port. In more his successor, Rev. Robert Blair . Thomas Raven in 1625. Another recent times the building has However there is no memorial to remarkable artefact is a slate been used as a photographic Sir James Hamilton who was buried sundial dating from 1630 that studio, the Council-run ‘Hot Sea here in 1644. The cemetery includes was once fixed to Bangor Abbey. Water Baths’, and an antiques 1798 Rebellion gravestones and It was the work of John Bonar, shop. The building now houses es that of famous Ulster-Scots writer a schoolmaster in Ayr, Scotland, the Visitor Information Centre. W.G. Lyttle , a blue plaque to whom whose other sundials can be www.visitardsandnorthdown.com is at 85 Main Street. seen in Scottish museums. Tel: 028 9127 0069 (BT20 5ED) www.bangorabbey.org www.northdownmuseum.com ton Tel: 028 9145 1087 (BT20 4JF) Tel: 028 9127 1200 (BT20 4BT)

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NEWTOWNARDS

Originally an important Anglo-Norman settlement, in the early 1600s Sir Hugh Montgomery established his ‘headquarters’ at Newtownards and with the assistance of his wife Elizabeth oversaw the development of the town which by 1611 included around 100 houses ‘all peopled with Scottes’. In 1744 Newtownards was acquired by the Stewart family. The Town Hall was built as a market house around 1770; during the 1798 Rebellion it was held for a time by a party of United Irishmen. St Mark’s Church of , completed in 1817, is one of the best examples for its date of the Perpendicular Gothic style in the British Isles.

Ards Arts Centre, formerly the Town Hall, was attacked in 1798. Sir Hugh Montgomery The building still has the prison cell where the 1798 rebellion men were held.

Newtownards Priory and Bawn Market Cross and Cemetery In 1244 a Dominican priory was Under Sir Hugh Montgomery’s On the outskirts of Newtownards founded in Newtownards. When direction Newtownards became an is Movilla Cemetery. This was the Sir Hugh Montgomery moved to important market centre. The story site of a monastery founded by Newtownards he converted the is told that in 1607 merchants St Finian in the 6th century which cloistral buildings of the priory to would travel from Scotland to became an Augustinian abbey in his domestic residence – Newtown Newtownards and back in a day to the 13th century – the ruins of the House – and had the priory church do business. The Market Cross in abbey church stand in one corner restored as a place of worship. The Newtownards is the second on the of the cemetery. The cemetery tower with its handsome classical site, the first having been built includes some memorials to rebels entrance was built in 1636 – under Montgomery’s direction as executed in 1798 including the year in which Sir Hugh died. a replica of the market cross in Archibald Warwick who was His funeral was along the lines Edinburgh. At the market cross hanged at Kircubbin. The Corry of an impressive Scottish state ‘all proclamations that come from mausoleum is one of three graves funeral, and he was buried within the Chief Governor of this kingdom’ at Movilla to former Provosts of these walls. Newtown House burned were issued. It bears the date 1636, Newtown - Provost being a Scottish down in 1664, but a portion of the the year that Montgomery died. term for mayor. bawn wall – from which Castlebawn (BT23 7HS) (BT23 8HH) takes its name – survives. (BT23 7NX) A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 6

DONAGHADEE

Donaghadee was an ancient Christian site just north of Templepatrick , where centuries of local tradition say St Patrick landed in the 5th century – having sailed from Portpatrick in Scotland. At the beginning of the 1600s Donaghadee was acquired by Sir Hugh Montgomery and an important port developed. Montgomery tried to rename the town Montgomery, but the new name failed to take hold. The historic Manor House in High Street is believed to stand on the site of Sir Hugh’s original dwelling. Donaghadee is home to Grace Neill’s , said to be the oldest pub in Ireland, founded in 1611.

Donaghadee Harbour viewed from The Moat which overlooks the town - with Scotland visible on the horizon

Donaghadee ‘Alias Montgomery’ stone, Cottage Kitchen, Killaughey Road

Parish Church Harbour Sir Hugh Montgomery had a large In 1616 Sir Hugh Montgomery These three small islands – named cruciform church constructed in received a Royal Warrant which Copeland, Light House and Mew – Donaghadee. It was in this church attempted to limit all crossings are located just off the County that the Rev. Andrew Stewart , between Ulster and Scotland to the Down coastline. The islands take one of the earliest historians of the Portpatric k/ Donaghadee route . their name from the Anglo-Norman Ulster Scots, began his ministerial A decade later he built the first family of de Coupland . In the early career in the mid 1640s. After he major harbour at Donaghadee. 1600s the islands were acquired by was ejected from the church in Donaghadee was the main port of Sir James Hamilton and were 1661, on account of his Presbyterian entry for travellers from Scotland mapped for him by Thomas Raven beliefs, Stewart continued to from the early 1600s until the in 1625. The islands are no longer minister to Presbyterians in mid 19th century. The harbour inhabited, but once supported a Donaghadee until his death in is dominated by the lighthouse small population of farmers and 1671. The graveyard contains a constructed in 1836 which was fishermen. The islands can be fascinating collection of memorials, the first in Ireland to be lit by reached by boat from Donaghadee many of them reflecting electricity. during the summer months – an Donaghadee’s maritime heritage. (BT21 0DG) unforgettable experience is feeding donaghadee.down.anglican.org fish to the grey seals! (BT21 0AJ) A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 7

HOLYWOOD Holywood was an important Anglo-Norman settlement. Scots settlers developed the town and restored the church (the Priory) as a place of worship. It is possible that Holywood’s famous League and Covenant was signed by maypole in fact originated as a typical the local Ulster-Scots population – Priory Scottish market cross, as shown in a copy of it is on display at the Ulster miniature on Thomas Raven’s map of Museum in Belfast. c. 1625 . Holywood is laid out as a neat town of 51 houses, built around the In the 1870s, Rev Henry Henderson, maypole/market cross, with a stream minister of Holywood Presbyterian separating the town from the Priory. Church , authored a column under the name ‘Ulster-Scot’. A later In the early 1600s the Priory became the minister was Rev J.B. Woodburn, author Maypole place of burial for Scottish families that of the important 1914 book The Ulster had settled in the area. Several of the Scot - His History and Religion . Hamiltons, kinsmen of Sir James Hamilton, were interred here, including Lorne House overlooking his younger brother William who was (left), is now home to the Girl Guide ‘creditably buried, and with great Association of Ireland. It was built by lamentation’ in the . In 1615, Henry Campbell, a wealthy industrialist, Robert Cunningham became minister of in the Scottish baronial style in 1875 Lorne House Holywood, only the second Presbyterian and named after the hereditary home of minister in Ireland. In 1644 the Solemn the Campbells in Scotland.

The Old Inn CRAWFORDSBURN Named after Andrew Crawford of Kilbirnie in Ayrshire, where the ruins of the family castle still stand, Crawfordsburn has a distinctively Scottish name.

Crawford arrived in as a Craig. The Craigs were an Ulster-Scots tenant of Sir James Hamilton and is family, and Sir James often used the term. named on the Thomas Raven maps of the Crawfordsburn House was turned into Hamilton estate which were drawn c. 1625. private apartments in the 1990s. The family bought their lands from the Crawfordsburn Country Park and Glen Hamiltons in the 1670s. are very popular destinations. Once the The historic main street retains wonderful estate of Crawfordsburn House, the park architectural character including the includes a number of walks and two famous Old Inn which dates from 1614. sandy beaches. Crawfordsburn House The Inn was a regular location for Belfast- Nearby is Estate (private born author C.S. Lewis, whose writings property) originally founded by the contain numerous Ulster-Scots references Blackwood family from Scotland. Within the and characters. estate, close to Conlig, is the impressive Crawfordsburn House was built in 1906, Helen’s Tower , designed in Scottish baronial designed by Vincent Craig, who also style in 1848 by William Burn, who designed designed Royal Ulster Yacht Club in Bangor Castle in 1852. A replica of Helen’s Crawfordsburn Glen Bangor. He was a brother of the Prime Tower was built at Thiepval in as a Minister of , Sir James memorial to the 36th Ulster Division. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 8

COMBER A town famous for potatoes and whiskey and the designer of the SS . St Mary’s Parish Church stands on the The Andrews family are Comber’s most site of the original Comber Abbey, which famous dynasty. Also tracing their roots was burned in the tension between the back to Scotland, the town today recalls O’Neills and the Smiths in the 1570s. their influence in some of the historic The Square Some of the original carved stones are buildings. John Andrews & Sons flax on display inside the church. spinning mill is still a spectacular structure, recently converted into In the early 1600s Hamilton and apartments. Just across the road is Montgomery jointly funded the restoration Andrews Memorial Primary School , of the church. However, their rivalry saw named after the Hamilton attempt to set up a new town – designer of the SS Titanic who was on New Comber – across the River Enler. her maiden voyage and sank with her. Meanwhile the Montgomerys developed Parish Church the original town, and built a grand Comber Early Potatoes have been house at Mount Alexander for their son recognised by European law and have and his bride Jean Alexander. Her father, PGI status (protected geographical Sir William Alexander, was tasked with indication). The legal definition of a settling Scots at in . true Comber potato is that it must have Overlooking the Square is a monument been grown in the area of County Down to Robert Rollo Gillespie, a local war hero which was once the original Hamilton Old Mill of Ulster-Scots descent. and Montgomery lands!

KILLINCHY AND WHITEROCK Rev John Livingstone, chaplain of the Countess of Wigtown in Scotland, was invited to Killinchy by Sir James Hamilton in 1630. Livingstone’s congregation worshipped The church cemetery includes the graves in an earlier church on the site of the of Bruce’s children, and of 1798 fighters present-day Parish Church . In James McCann and Dr James Cord. Parish Church September 1636 he was one of four Killinchy Presbyterian Church is based ministers onboard Eagle Wing on her on an unusual cruciform plan. ill-fated voyage to America. When Livingstone returned, he soon relocated Sketrick Castle , now ruined, is one of to Stranraer. His Killinchy congregation the many castles built by the Anglo- is known to have rowed across to Normans, probably in the 1400s. Scotland from Donaghadee to visit him. Scottish author James Meikle published Presbyterian church One of his successors at Killinchy was a entitled Killinchy in the Days of Michael Bruce, who was arrested in Livingstone in 1839, telling the story of Scotland for illegally preaching in the the Scots settlers of the 1600s. open air. When the judge sentenced Ulster-Scots author W.G. Lyttle’s famous Bruce he gave him a choice of where book Daft Eddie and the Smugglers he would like to be banished to. Bruce of , first published chose ‘the wild woods of Killinchy’ - in 1890, is a County Down classic. the judge had no idea that he had just A local restaurant takes its name from Sketrick Castle given Bruce permission to return home! the hero of the story. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 9

POR TAFERRY Portaferry retains much of the character of an historic coastal town, and the famous ferry crossing with Strangford is a highlight when visiting. Portaferry Castle (beside the Visitor dating from 1642. The current Portaferry Information Centre) was built by the Presbyterian Church was built in Anglo-Norman Savage family in the 1500s, 1841 in the Neoclassical style. It is now Portaferry Castle but was in ruins when the Scots settled ‘Portico’, a new visitor and heritage here in the 1600s. Jean Montgomery centre. A blue plaque to Rev William married Patrick Savage in 1623, and her Steele Dickson is on the building. A brother Sir James Montgomery renovated renowned leader of the United Irishmen, the castle as a wedding gift. The town he was arrested in 1798 on his way to developed into an important port, and a co-operate with the ‘United Scotsmen’ ferry charter was granted. The Savages, movement in Scotland. later the Nugents, remained as major Two miles east of Portaferry is Quintin landowners in the area until the 1970s. Castle (a private residence but visible Presbyterian church Ancient Templecranny Church and from the road and shore). It was also graveyard contains the family grave owned by Sir James Montgomery in the of Robert Echlin, originally from early 1600s. He was killed by pirates in Fife in Scotland, who lived at the Abbacy the North Sea in 1652 - one of whom at nearby Ardquin. 1798 Rebellion fighter was called Smith. It transpired that he James Maxwell is also buried here. During was one of Montgomery’s tenants from the Rebellion an attack took place on Quintin Castle. Portaferry Market House , which still In 1731 Dean Jonathan Swift, author of features the Savage coat of arms. Gulliver’s Travels , wrote A North Country- Ferry Portaferry was one of the first man’s Description, about Ulster-Scots Presbyterian congregations in Ireland, sailors from Portaferry arriving in .

KIRCUBBIN (SOMETIMES SPELLED ‘KIRKCUBBIN’) An early Christian site, Roland Savage leased Kircubbin to Sir James Hamilton in the early 1600s, and Scottish families such as the Maxwells settled here. to the 1760s Kircubbin was simply interference from Scotland and it was a small . However, around 1770 a not until 1783 that the congregation of Presbyterian church local landlord, James Bailie, encouraged Kircubbin was formally recognised. its development by granting leases on On 15 1798, Archibald Warwick, good terms and taking out a patent for a 29-year-old licentiate of the four annual fairs and a weekly market. Presbyterian Church, was executed at The origins of Kircubbin Presbyterian Kircubbin for his involvement in the Church are interesting. In 1777 the rebellion of that year. The gallows were Presbyterians here requested permission raised between the church and the from the Synod of Ulster to establish manse, in an area which today is a their own congregation. When permission public car park, and thousands gathered was refused they looked to Scotland for to see Warwick die. He was buried in help and George Brydons was ordained the family plot at Movilla Cemetery – their first minister by the Scottish the grave can still be seen there today. View of the Lough from Kircubbin Presbytery of Lauder in 1778. The Synod of Ulster did not appreciate this A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 10

POR TAVOGIE Famous for fishing and seafood, Portavogie was settled in 1606 as part of James Hamilton’s estate, and developed as a fishing village in the 1700s. The first recorded Ulster-Scots settlers from the Warnocks Road to the harbour are believed to have been the Boyds of is popular and enjoyable route. Kilmarnock whose impressive Dean Castle can still be visited there today. A map of In 1683, William Montgomery recorded fish names which are Portavogie was drawn for Hamilton by Promenade Thomas Raven c. 1625. still used here today - ‘lythe’ for pollack, ‘blockan’ for coalfish and ‘bavins’ for It remained as a small settlement until wrasse. Today, Portavogie fish sellers 1750 when it developed rapidly thanks travel to local markets, and fish vans go to the arrival of a community of Scottish door-to-door, all over Ulster every week. fishing families from Maidens in Ayrshire. They made use of the natural harbour at The earliest place of worship in the McCammon Rocks and sandy beach at village was a Presbyterian outreach, the the north of the present day village. In the Fisherman’s Hall, which opened in 1887. late 1800s around 60 boats sheltered Portavogie Presbyterian Church was Harbour here. A new promenade along the beach founded later, in 1926. CLOUGHEY AND KIRKISTOWN From ‘cauld hames’ to a grand castle – and golf. Kirkistown Castle is an impressive tower The local name ‘ Calhame ’ comes from a house said to have been built by Roland Scots term meaning ‘cold home’, a name Savage in 1622. It was located near the which can be found all over Scotland as other Savage castles at Ballygalget and well as in counties and Donegal. Kirkistown Castle Ardkeen, each visible from the others. The The golf courses nearby bring that most castle was later acquired by James McGill Scottish of sports to the area. Ardkeen and in 1683 it was said that he had includes a memorial ‘improved this place very much, by to George Francis Savage-Armstrong, building garden walls, and houses, and the renowned Ulster-Scots poet. New repairing in and about'. boardwalks through the sandy ‘knowes’ Beach boardwalks (knolls) provide access to the beach. THE ‘LITTLE’ O R UPPER ARDS An ancient boundary, with Scottish settlers on both sides. The Saltwater Brig over the Blackstaff In the early 1600s the ‘Little Ards’ River , by the historic St Patrick’s remained in the possession of the old Restaurant named after, and situated Church , marks an age-old division Anglo-Norman family of Savage, with beside, the Saltwater Brig separating the southern end of the Ards the ‘Great Ards’ to the north being (the ‘Little Ards’ or ‘Upper Ards’) from granted to Hamilton and Montgomery. the rest of the peninsula (the ‘Great Ards’ There are many sites in the ‘Little Ards’ or ‘Lower Ards). The river used to run that are associated with the Savages and right across the Peninsula, reaching the these early Scottish families. Well worth a North Channel between Ballyhalbert and visit is Kearney on the outer coast which Portavogie. In the 1570s, it was proposed was restored by the National Trust as a Some of the buildings at Kearney to build a fortification along the river. 19th-century fishing village. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 11

BALLYWALTER An important part of Sir James Hamilton’s estate in 1606, this coastal village with popular sandy beaches attracts visitors all year round. When it was built in the 1200s, pleasure boats and local fishermen as Whitechurch (also known as Alba they land crubins (large edible crabs), Ecclesia – which translates as both lobsters in creels, and line-caught fish. Whitechurch ‘White Church’ or ‘Scots Church’) was one In 1626 Hamilton’s nephew Rev James of the biggest churches in County Down. Hamilton became the first Presbyterian Today some stone coffin-lids of its Anglo- minister on the – a Norman founders can be still be seen. datestone can be seen on the community The gravestones include that of John centre in Main Street. A stone bearing the Cooper, originally of Kilwinning in date 1644 can be seen at Whitechurch – Ayrshire, who settled with his family at this was the year in which the Solemn nearby Ballyhaskin. One of the first Scots League & Covenant was signed here. View from the harbour to settle here, he died in 1608 aged 92. Ballywalter has many brown heritage Thomas Makie, an early 17th-century street signs which recall the original Burgess of Stranraer also lies here. Look Ulster-Scots street names around the out for the 1798 Rebellion gravestones village. The main street is dominated by of David and Hugh Maxwell, James Kain the Presbyterian Church, built in 1889, with and William Stuart, all killed on the the smaller Parish Church built in 1849. attack on Newtownards Market House. Ballywalter Park (private property) is the In 1623 King James I granted James seat of Lord and Lady Dunleath. The estate Community centre datestone Hamilton permission to build a harbour was bought in 1846 by Andrew Mulholland, which is still in daily use by small from a Belfast Ulster-Scots merchant family.

BALLYHALBERT The most easterly point of Ireland, Ballyhalbert is within the Parish of St Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland.

Old church and graveyard The slopes of the Anglo-Norman motte Ballyhalbert graveyard is a fine example which overlooks Ballyhalbert include a of an burying-ground, the prehistoric standing stone , indicating that oldest surviving gravestone dating from this is an ancient settlement. The ruined 1709. Its gravestones include that of Anglo-Norman church at the seafront Captain John McWhir who inspired the dates from around the late 1200s. Early heroic character Captain MacWhirr in the records name the church as ‘Talbotston’. 1902 Joseph Conrad novel Typhoon . Harbour When Sir James Hamilton acquired the Ballyhalbert has many brown heritage area in 1606, Ballyhalbert church was street signs which recall the original Balligan church interior restored for its Scottish population and in Ulster-Scots street names around the 1622 a Rev George Porter became minister. village, such as Tay Pot Raa . The church fell into ruin, and in 1704 its During the summer months, jet skiers handcrafted rooftimbers were salvaged for enjoy the harbour and bay, while the use in the new church at nearby Balligan dulse-pickers dry their harvest where they can still be seen today. along the harbour wall. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 12

GROOMSPORT The earliest port on the North Down coast; scene of the Eagle Wing ’s attempted emigration to America in September 1636. James Hamilton’s 1606 coastal lands Groomsport House was founded by the stretched from the River Lagan in Belfast Maxwells in the late 1600s. They came to Groomsport. The natural harbour here to Ulster from Calderwood, south of was initially owned by the O’Mulcreves, Glasgow, in the early 1600s. The current Eagle Wing sculpture whom Hamilton was on good terms with, building, dating from 1849, was recently and who called the area ‘Gilgroomes port’. converted into private apartments.

Soon it was settler Scots families who In 1973 the historian Michael Perceval- developed the area, such as Robert Kyle Maxwell (a descendant of the Maxwells) of Irvine in Ayrshire. The Rosses also of wrote the landmark volume The Scottish Irvine settled at nearby Portavo. Thomas Migration to Ulster. His Perceval-Maxwell Raven drew a map of the ‘Gromsporte’ ancestors had led a migration from settlement c. 1625. North Down and Ards to Amherst Island Cockle Row In 1634 Groomsport was the departure in Canada during the 1800s, where they founded a little Ulster-Scots community port for Rev John Livingstone, when he Thomas Raven map sailed to London to make plans for the complete with Presbyterian church and eventual emigration of Eagle Wing which Orange Hall. set sail on 9th September 1636, carrying The picturesque Cockle Row cottages four Ulster-Scots Presbyterian ministers at the harbour are a step back in time. and a further 136 passengers. Each year the departure of the Eagle Wing A stone at the seafront marks the arrival in is remembered in the cottages’ summer 1689 of the army of the Duke of Schomberg. entertainment programme.

MILLISLE A popular resort village, Millisle grew quickly in the early 1900s around its long sandy beaches and at that time two Presbyterian churches, one of which still remains, right on the beach. Ballycopeland Windmill is one of the Just north of Millisle, Templepatrick Ballycopeland Windmill area’s most famous buildings. At one was where the telegraph cable point there were so many windmills on from Scotland came ashore. 1500 years the Ards Peninsula that the area was ago it is said that St Patrick landed here, known as ‘little Holland’. The Windmill where a small church and well once was in operation until the 1970s, and attracted visitors to the tiny graveyard. opens occasionally during the year. Legend has it that St Patrick’s horse left hoof prints on a rock on the beach, which Millisle’s most famous daughter was the can still be seen at low tide. Millisle Baptist Church missionary, children and women’s rights campaigner and author Amy Carmichael. Just south of Millisle, Woburn House was Her parents are buried at the secluded built by John Gilmore Dunbar in the early Ballycopeland graveyard. Millisle Baptist 1800s as his summer residence. His Church has a blue plaque in her memory; family originated in Hempriggs near it was originally the local primary school Caithness in Scotland. A descendant also which Amy attended. founded nearby Christ Church, where Woburn House (no public access) the poet Louis MacNeice is buried. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 13

GRE YABBEY The village of Greyabbey occupies a sheltered coastal location, protected by South Isle and Mid Isle. These are connected to each other and to the mainland by tidal causeways known locally as ‘roans’. Greyabbey has long attracted settlers and there is evidence to suggest the Vikings were here. The local name for Greyabbey, ‘Greba’, may have come from the Old Norse word Grípa, meaning ‘seize’, ‘grasp’, or ‘attack’. Greyabbey was acquired by Sir Hugh Montgomery in the early 1600s and, from about 1623, a weekly market was held at The Square, serving the thousands of lowland Scots farmers who had settled here.

A shamrock & thistle detail The Abbey contains many memorials, including generations of Montgomerys.

Grey Abbey Greyabbey village Grey Abbey House Substantial ruins of the Cistercian Greyabbey has two ‘old’ parts In 1629 Sir Hugh Montgomery’s abbey founded in 1193 survive. In clustered at either end of Main eldest son James moved to the early seventeenth century the Street. The original shore road from Greyabbey and built a residence abbey church was repaired by Sir Newtownards to Portaferry came close to the abbey. James was Hugh Montgomery . The site was directly into the early 17th-century killed by pirates in 1652 and his abandoned when a new Anglican settlement at the market square impressive monument stands church was built a short distance end of Main Street close to the within the abbey ruins. The present from the old one c. 1778. Today the shore. An even older small Grey Abbey House, also known ruins are in state care. To the east settlement sat along what is now as Rosemount, is the third on the of the ruins of the abbey church is North Street Church Lane, where an site and was built in 1762. The Greyabbey graveyard. This was the ancient road from the far side of surrounding estate encompasses burial place of Rev. James Porter , the Ards peninsula ran down to what is believed to be one of the the local Presbyterian minister the Abbey entrance. The village first landscaped gardens in who was executed in 1798 for his includes two Presbyterian meeting Ireland. (Please note that the alleged involvement in the Rebellion. houses: Trinity Presbyterian and the estate is private property and (BT22 2NQ) Non-Subscribing Presbyterian. visits are by arrangement only.) Brown street signs feature the old www.greyabbeyhouse.com names, such as ‘Hard Breid Raa’. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 14

STRANGFORD LOUGH Our Council area surrounds Strangford Lough, said to be the largest sea water inlet in the British Isles. At the Narrows, between Portaferry and Strangford, strong currents are created by millions of gallons of water surging through, the energy of which is captured by the SeaGen tidal turbine. In 1683, William Montgomery wrote of ‘... a whirle-poole or eddy of the returning tides, called by the Scotch the rowling weele from the loud sound it sometimes makes... near to which if small boats come ... it is said they will be suckt in ...’

The ferry crossing between Portaferry and Strangford is U G H L O a must-do experience, giving a real sense of the strong S T A F L currents below. You can see why the Vikings named this E GROOMSPORT COPELAND B ISLANDS ‘Strong Fjord’. Windmill Hill overlooking Portaferry is the BANGOR

1 ideal viewpoint. CRAWFORDSBURN 8 M ILE S T COUNCIL O P DONAGHADEE OR BOUNDARY TP AT COASTAL DRIVES RIC HOLYWOOD K Along the west coast the road winds through ancient CONLIG MILLISLE NORTH Christian sites like Nendrum, island-hopping causeways, CHANNEL sailing clubs, and castles such as the ruined Sketrick DUNDONALD NEWTOWNARDS CARROWDORE to James Hamilton’s impressive 17th century home at SCRABO CUNNINGBURN S BALLYWALTER T Killyleagh, which looks like a grand French chateau. COMBER R A N GRE YABBEY G Along the east coast from Newtownards to Portaferry is F O part of the St Patrick’s Trail . As you head south, get off R D BALLYHALBERT BALLYGOWAN NENDRUM KIRCUBBIN the beaten track and take the lesser-known routes – hug L WHITEROCK O the coastline from Mill south to Portaferry; then U KILLINCHY PORTAVOGIE G

travel from Portaferry up to Cloughey – the beauty of H

COUNCIL these country roads is an experience you’ll remember. BOUNDARY CLOUGHEY BISHOPS MILL The outer North Channel coast is part of the KILLYLEAGH Coastal Route, but it could just as S W KEARNEY O R R easily be called the County Down Ulster-Scots A NPORTAFERRY

E STRANGFORD H Route . On a clear day Scotland is easily visible T WEST LOUGH COAST from Crawfordsburn to Cloughey – at night the 28 MILES / 45 MINUTES lighthouses of the Mull of Galloway, and boats EAST LOUGH COAST 22 MILES / 40 MINUTES DOWNPATRICK of all sizes from fishing trawlers to cruise NORTH CHANNEL COAST ships, twinkle in the darkness. 45 MILES / 1 HR 30 MINUTES

The view from townland across ‘The Narrows’ of Strangford Lough, towards and the . It is said that Con O’Neill may have spent his latter years here. His widow Eilis married Henry Savage of Ardkeen in 1628. A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 15

Irish harp MOUNT STEWART Mount Stewart is one of Northern Ireland’s best National Trust properties, and was recently reopened following a major programme of renovations that lasted for three years and cost £7m.

Having previously been owned by the Secretary of Ireland who forced through families of Montgomery and Colville , the Act of Union in 1800 and later the Mount Pleasant, as it was originally British at the time of known, was acquired by Alexander the Congress of Vienna of 1814-15. Stewart when he purchased the manors of Newtownards and Comber for £42,000 The house was constructed over decades in 1744. Like the Montgomerys and the and much of its present appearance Colvilles, the Stewarts were originally dates from the late 1840s. The most from Scotland. Stewart was from distinguished building on the property Ballylawn in and had is the Temple of the Winds , built in the Red Hand of Ulster been MP for Londonderry. He used some 1780s, which is in the first rank of of his wife Mary’s fortune (inherited from Classical buildings in Ireland. her brother who had been Governor of With an incredible collection of plants Bombay) to buy the estate. as well as great ingenuity in their design, Alexander Stewart’s eldest son Robert Mount Stewart’s gardens are among became an MP in 1769 and a peer in the finest in the world. Edith, Lady 1783, rising to Londonderry , was instrumental in the in 1816. He died in 1821 and was buried development of these gardens. Look out House and gardens at Newtownards Priory in the family tomb. for the Red Hand of Ulster flower bed as His son was Lord Castlereagh , the Chief well as topiary shaped like an Irish harp.

SCRABO TOWER Designed in the Scottish Baronial style, was built in 1857 in memory of the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry, who died in 1854. According to the inscription on the plaque ‘... therein is the quarrey of the best on the wall, the tower was built ‘by his freestone that may be seen anywhere ... tenantry and friends’. It was designed by ye stones whereof are well known in the architectural firm of Lanyon & Lynn Dublin, and taken thither and elsewhere and cost over £3,000 – massively over- in great abundance ...’. For centuries, budget (even after reducing it by one storey). Scrabo stone was a standard building material across the Ards. Rising nearly 125 feet from the summit of Scrabo Hill, itself over 500 feet above sea Legend has it that Macananty, King of the level, the tower can be seen for miles Fairies, is buried under Scrabo Hill. In around and from it there are spectacular Ballads of Down (1901), Ulster-Scots poet views, even to Scotland on a clear day. In George Francis Savage-Armstrong wrote recent decades the tower was taken into a poem about Macananty – public ownership and the area around ‘... Frae the hill an frae the lea: turned into a country park. That nae mair in magic trances Scrabo viewed from Craigantlet Scrabo Hill was described by William Whun the silver moonbeam glances Montgomery in 1683. He wrote that – Come the Wee-Fowk wi’ their dances ...’ A&ND DUS A5 AW FINAL:Layout 1 14/01/2016 16:57 Page 16

ULSTER FOLK AND TRANSPORT MUSEUM Situated at near Holywood, the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum is one of ’s most prestigious ‘national’ open-air museums. The Museum is on the former Kennedy houses were well-known in their communities estate at Cultra. The Kennedys had moved as ‘kailey’ houses where neighbours gathered to Ulster from Ayrshire in the 1660s, for a ‘guid nicht’s crack’. There is also a settling at Ballycultra. They bought the T-plan Presbyterian Church, or ‘Meeting-House’, estate from the Hamiltons a few years from County Tyrone. later, and married into the Stewarts of The transport museum at the same site Coshkib Hill Farm Ballylawn in Donegal (who later moved to has exhibits and exhibitions which tell the County Down and bought Mount Stewart). story of many Ulster-Scots innovators such as entrepreneur Harry Ferguson. The open-air folk museum opened in 1964 and has reconstructed a traditional The Ulster Dialect Archive at the museum landscape with dozens of old dwellings from has invaluable collections relating to the all over Ulster. Two in particular are from an varieties of language in Ulster, particularly Ulster-Scots background — the Coshkib Hill Ulster-Scots. The archival collections and Farm (north Antrim) and the Ballyveagh research library of the museum are open to thatched house (Mournes). Both these visitors by appointment (office hours only). Traditional Ulster gate PARKS AND COAS TAL WALKS North Down Coastal Path is a 16-mile Further south, Kearney has coastal route from Holywood to Orlock near grassland walks, while Knockinelder Bay Groomsport, following Sir James and Ballyquinton Farm trails near Hamilton’s estate boundaries of 1606. It Portaferry are local favourites. Knockinelder Bay near Kearney connects with Crawfordsburn Country Park , where Crawfordsburn Glen winds For a bird’s-eye view, Scrabo Country Park 1.5 miles inland from the coast. is a must. To get close to the Lough you can walk from Greyabbey to Mid Isle , or along The Commons at Donaghadee is very the shorelines at Islandhill and Whiterock. popular with locals and of course enjoys views to Scotland. All of the beaches on the Strangford Lough is on the National Cycle Ballydorn Lightship near Whiterock North Channel coast are easily accessible. Route, and there are 11 canoeing trails. PLACE NAME S The burns and braes of the Ards and North Down. From Crawfordsburn village, to as well. Some of these have been restored Cunningburn just north of Mount Stewart, on brown signs in some of the villages, to the Carrstown Burn near Portaferry, whilst others can be seen on the regular Holywood if you keep your eyes open you’ll see white street signs. Talk to the older locals Ulster-Scots place names dotted naturally and you’ll find names which live on in right across our Council area. popular memory - ‘Coo Vennel’ in Comber, ‘Schoolhouse Brae’ in Donaghadee, The Scots settlers of the 1600s kept the ‘Echlinville’ in Ballyhalbert parish, ‘Whaup townland names which the O’Neills had Rock’ in Greyabbey, ‘Saltwater Brig’ in been familiar with, but they introduced Ardkeen... keep your eyes and ears open! Portaferry their own new Scots-influenced names