Scales of Difficulty in Climbing
SCALES OF DIFFICULTY IN CLIMBING G. Mandelli, A. Angriman, Central School of Mountaineering – CAI, Italy (translation by G. Coppadoro – CAI) INTRODUCTION In this article, we analyze the main systems used to classify the difficulty of climbing on different terrains such as rock, ice, and mixed terrain, trying to offer a starting point to create a minimum of historical and critical knowledge of those that are commonly known as "Scale of Difficulty." Too often, the gradations of the difficulties are used in an very confused way, and this may create confusion to climbers going to undertake an ascension of any kind. Therefore, it is necessary to know and distinguish the numerous evaluation systems that are used in order to really understand and be able to compare different climbing relations. In addition to reviewing strengths and weaknesses of various scales used in climbing and mountaineering activities, we try to understand why it is appropriate to indicate the difficulty of a climb. A DIFFICULTY: WHO WILL EVALUATE IT AND HOW IT WILL BE EVALUATED While climbing, it is not always easy to determine the difficulty of the last passage, or of an entire length of rope. In most cases, the "law of comparison", or sampling, is applied, that in the mind of a climber compares the current situation with other situations already experienced (difficulty). It can therefore safely be said that the more situations (experiences) the climber has experienced, the more a correct evaluation of the difficulty is given, although, as in any human activity, there is a risk of subjectivity. Obviously, for classifying a passage it cannot be objectively possible to quantify the magnitude of footings and supports, the fragility of the ice, or the instability of snow masses.
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