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Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT

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Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT THE JOURNAL OF THE Fell and Rock Climbing Club OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. VOL. 5. 1921. No. 3. LIST OF OFFICERS. President: GODFREY A. SOLLY. Vice-Presidents: C. H. OLIVERSON AND T. C. ORMISTON-CHANT. T. R. BURNETT. Honorary Editor of Journal : R. S. T. CHORLEY, 34 Cartwright Gardens, London, W.C.I. Honorary Treasurer: W. G. MILLIGAN, Hollin Garth, Barrow-in-Furness. Honorary Secretary : J. B. WILTON, 122 Ainslie Street, Barrow-in-Furness. Honorary Librarian : H. P. CAIN, Graystones, Ramsbottom, near Manchester. Auditors .- R. F. MILLER & Co., Barrow-in-Furness. Members of Committee : G. S. BOWER. T. H. SOMERVELL. W. BUTLER. A. WELLS. D. LEIGHTON. Miss E. F. HARLAND. P. R. MASSON. MRS. KELLY. I. P. ROGERS. Miss D. E. PILLEY. E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY. Honorary Members: VISCOUNT LECONFIELD. GEORGE D. ABRAHAM. GEORGE B. BRYANT. REV. J. NELSON BURROWS, M.A. PROF. J. NORMAN COLLIE. Ph.D., F.R.S. W. P. HASKETT-SMITH, M.A. GEOFFREY HASTINGS. HAROLD RAEBURN. WILLIAM CECIL SLINGSBY, F.R.G.S. GODFREY A. SOLLY. PROF. L. R. WILBERFORCE. M.A. GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG. RULES. 1.—The Club shall be called "THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT," and its objects shall be to encourage rock-climbing and fell walking in the Lake District, to serve as a bond of union for all lovers of mountain-climbing, to enable its members to meet together in order to participate in these forms of sport, to arrange for meetings, to provide books, maps, etc., at the various centres, and to give information and advice on matters pertaining to local mountaineering and rock-climbing. 2.—The affairs of the Club shall be managed by a Committee consisting of a President, two Vice-Presidents, an Honorary Editor, an Honorary Treasurer, an Honorary Librarian, an Honorary Secretary, and seven Ordinary Members, with power to add to their number. Three to form a quorum. 3.—The Officers of the Club shall be elected for the ensuing year at the Annual General Meeting. The President and Vice-Presidents shall not hold office for more than two years consecutively. The three senior members (in order of election) of the retiring Committee shall not be eligible for election at that meeting. 4.—The Committee are empowered to fill up ad interim any vacancy occur• ring among the officers of the Club or the rest of the Committee. 5.—All candidates for membership must be proposed and seconded by members of the Club, and will be elected subject to the approval of the Committee. 6.—The subscription shall be 10/- per annum plus an entrance fee of 10/-. Subscriptions shall be due on the first of November in each year. Members may become life members upon payment of one subscription of seven guineas. 7.—No member shall vote, or enjoy any privileges of the Club, until his annual subscription is paid. The Committee are empowered to remove the name of any member not having paid his subscription within three months from the date upon which it became due, but may re-admit him on such terms as they may decide. 8.—The Committee are empowered to elect as Honorary Members those who have rendered eminent service to the cause of mountaineering. 9.—An Annual General Meeting will be held in October of each year, or at such other time as the Committee may determine. A copy of the Balance Sheet made up to September 30th, together with agenda of the business to be transacted, shall be posted to each member seven days before the Meeting. 10.—At least one month's notice shall be given of the date fixed for the Annual General Meeting. 11.—No vote shall be taken at a General Meeting on any motion affecting the rules or finance of the Club, unless notice in writing shall have been received by the Hon. Secretary at least fourteen clear days before the Meeting. 12.—An Extraordinary General Meeting of the Club shall be called on a requisition in writing, signed by any eight members, being sent to the Hon. Secretary, who shall call such Meeting within ten days. 13.—Books, Maps, or any other articles which the Club may provide, must on no account be removed from the quarters where they are kept. Bookcases have been provided at Thorneythwaite Farm, Borrowdale; Butter- mere Hotel, Buttermere; Wast water Hotel, Wasdale; Sun Hotel, Coniston; and at New Hotel, Dungeon Ghyli. The keys can be obtained from the proprietors. The Journal is published early in November at the price of 4/- net, and is sent out gratis and post free to all members who have paid the annual subscription for the past year ending October 31st. Copyright Photo by W. H. Johnson GIRDLING THE NEEDLE, GREAT GABLE. 241 MORE NEW CLIMBS AROUND WASDALE. By H. M. KELLY. The success which attended the efforts of Holland, Crawford and myself in 1919 to find new climbs in the Wasdale district, and which provided the matter for Holland's article in No. 13 of the " Journal," decided us on the venue of our chief holiday for 1920. Crawford, however, who had gone back to the East, was after bigger game, no less than Kangchenjunga itself. Probably by now he will consider, like most others who subsequently visit the higher mountains of other countries, that our search for 300-feet rock climbs is mere trifling with mountaineering. We will not enter into any comparisons on the subject, except to say that we feel sure there is at least one thing which the bigger mountains of the earth, although they may be superior and more attractive in many other ways, do not offer in as full a measure as those of our Home• land, and that is—Intimacy. This is naturally so, for the opportunities of knowing our own hills are greater, because they are more accessible, and by reason of their very accessibility we visit them more and more, and in conse• quence there springs up a mutual responsiveness between the mountains and ourselves. One of the ways in which this manifests itself is in the discovery of new climbs, and that is why we venture to think there is even a greater intimacy between the rock-climber and the mountain than there is between the fell-walker and his hills. Surely Scafell is more intimate to the man who has rested, for instance, by Hopkinson's Cairn, on his way to the summit, than to him who only travels to the same destination via the slopes of Buramoor? The pedestrian walks across Hollow 242 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNAL. Stones to Mickledoor, and glances at the facade of the mighty temple on his right, whilst the cragsman coming along not only gazes in wonder and amazement at the majesty of the pile before him, but takes his courage in both hands, and enters the very portals themselves ; and the inner secrets of the hills are unfolded to him as he scales the cliff: the crannies and the narrow ledges—once the sanctuary of birds alone—become the sanctuary of man. While we could not but deplore Crawford's absence, our party was very strong indeed, being composed of Bower, Pritchard, Holland (of course), and others ; but I need not mention names—a note of the first ascents, with their participants, having already appeared in the last number of the " Journal " under " Climbs, Old and New." The reader will find, however, on referring to those Notes, that we did not wait for the summer holiday before commencing our exploration ; for we started as early as Whit-week, when the climbs Upper Deep Ghyll Buttress; Central Route, Deep Ghyll Slabs, were worked out, and the first ascents practically made, although we gave the succeeding Sep• tember as the date of the actual first ascent in each case. It is interesting to contemplate that at least half of our climbs were discovered in a casual (one might almost say accidental) fashion, whereas one might think the majority were first done by laborious surveying of the rock faces. Especially is the former the case in more recent times, for naturally two or three ascents of an existing route make one acquainted with the surroundings of that climb, and, by observation—there is plenty of time for observation in rock- climbing,—one can locate rest-places which, if only linked up, would provide pitches for a new climb. The two climbs in Deep Ghyll I have just referred to are good examples of how new climbs are discovered in this way—which, of course, does not mean that no thought is required in working out the routes. The day (Whit-Saturday) was very wet. The party which foregathered in Deep Ghyll was so large that it split up: MORE NEW CLIMBS AROUND WASDALE. 243 Miss D. E. Pilley, Morley Wood and myself decided on Jones's route to Low Man, while Mrs. Kelly and Miss L. Dutton went off to Slingsby's Chimney. We had ascended our climb, and were descending Jones' and Collier's: in between whiles I looked around, and saw some rock that I had not specially noticed before in my climbing hereabouts. Without particularly thinking of looking for a new climb, I went up a rather shallow slab for some distance, and looked down to the " blocks " on Jones' and Collier's, when the thought suddenly flashed across my mind: " Why not a central route up the slabs ? " I broached this to my companions, and we decided to explore the face from the " blocks," and if this upper section was made to go then to endeavour to find a route to the " blocks " from the bed of the ghyll.
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