The Gawler Ranges: A short break away

15 March to 26 March 2018

Trip Leaders: Geoff and Anita H

General

The trip to the Gawler Ranges is intended to be a relaxed trip around the region, providing participants with an opportunity for 4WD touring and sightseeing, R&R or a combination of both. The trip will be suitable for tents and off road trailers / caravans.

The dates have been deliberately chosen as they fall between the Labour Day weekend and Easter and avoid school holidays, which should maximise our chances of less crowded campsites and 4WD tracks.

The intention is to explore the various areas from base camps, which will avoid the need to take trailers etc on the tracks. The standard of 4WDing will be moderate (based on our research), but recovery gear should be carried just in case.

There is no limit on the number of participants but most camping areas in the Gawler Ranges can accommodate 10 vehicles. We have booked a site for ourselves at Kolay Hut Campground, an unallocated camp ground. Unfortunately our booking has not guaranteed exclusive access to this Campground so, to ensure that we are able to camp together, it would be advisable for other participants to book sooner rather than later. Itinerary

March 15: Spear Creek Caravan Park

The trip will officially start at the Spear Creek Caravan Park, which is located 25 kms or half an hour south east of Port Augusta.

Set immediately adjacent to the Western slopes of the Flinders Ranges in the middle of a 7000ha working sheep station, Spear Creek provides privacy and security.

Spear Creek is accessed from HWY 56 (Sth) or HWY 47 (Nth) and the Old Wilmington Road (bitumen).

The amenities are built amongst 400yr old river red gums in an area abounding with native flora and fauna, providing great private property bush walking and bird watching. There are also private Bush Camp areas which have their own flush toilets, water and fire pits.

When we stayed last year the rates were $25 and $28 for unpowered / powered sites respectively. March 16, 17 and 18: Gawler Ranges

Spear Creek to Gawler Ranges: 360 km Start time: 8.00 am

Fuel: The last opportunity to refuel will be at Kyancutta. Please allow enough fuel for 200km of 4WDing whilst in the Park (if you choose to do these trips), plus another 100km to Mt Ive (where fuel is available, but it probably won’t be cheap). There is NO water available in the Gawler Ranges. Please bring sufficient water for 3 days / 3 nights.

Food: Fully self-sufficient

Rates: $46 for 3 nights, consisting of $12 daily camping fee and once off $10 vehicle permit

Booking: https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/booking/details#/accom/73112

Website: https://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/find-a-park/Browse_by_region/Eyre_Peninsula/gawler-ranges-national-park#about

Google Maps suggests the drive out to the Gawler Ranges from Spear Creek will take approximately 5 hours 45 minutes. Allowing time for stocking up in Port Augusta, refuelling and lunch this will be a relatively long day. An early start time is recommended to enable us to set up camp at a reasonable time.

We are recommending the Kolay Hut Campground. It offers room for 10 vehicles (although the tenth site is a considerable distance from the others), a flat surface and shade. It also has a drop toilet and a donkey heater for a shower (although according to various reviews, this is not always operational). We have made a booking for ourselves but unfortunately this does not secure the Site for our exclusive use. Again, early booking is highly recommended to maximise our chances of being able to camp together.

If you don’t wish to camp alternative accommodation may be available at the Pondanna Outstation, which has been restored by the Friends of Gawler Ranges. You will need to phone 0437 586 725 to find out more about this option. (Pondanna Outstation is approximately 20km from the Kolay Hut Campground).

Things to Do

We have two full days to either explore the Gawler Ranges, relax or a combination of both.

From our research, five of the top things to see in the Gawler Ranges are: • The Organ Pipes – Climb to the top of these ancient rock formations, the result of volcanic eruptions more than 1500 million years ago. • Kolay Mirica Falls – Visit at sunset to see the stunning orange-red rocks at their glowing best. • Sturt’s Lake – Dry for most of the year, a heavy downpour can transform Sturt’s Lake from shimmering salt pan to a wide, watery mirror. • Wildlife – The park is home to a wide range of animals, including Major Mitchell’s cockatoos, ring-neck parrots, yellow-footed rock wallabies, hairy- nosed wombats, goannas, emus and, of course, kangaroos. • Old Paney Homestead – Visit the old stone homestead that remains as a reminder of the park’s days as a remote pastoral property.

To cover these areas we intend to offer a loop drive on each of our two days in the Park. The routes are shown on the map below:

The “Yellow” route is approximately 95km and the “Magenta” route is 105km. Depending on the road conditions, these could be relatively full days so we will probably leave camp no later than 9.00am, getting us back well in time for Happy Hour.

Some other articles about the Gawler Ranges that may be of interest are: https://traveloutbackaustralia.com/exploring-gawler-ranges-complete-guide.html/ http://unsealed4x4.com.au/issue021/#61 March 19, 20 and 21: Mt Ive Station

Gawler Ranges to Mt Ive: 91 km Start Time: 10.00am

Food: Fully self-sufficient, although there is a bar!

Rates: Unpowered Camping - $10 per person per night Powered Camping - $14 per person per night Shearer’s quarters - $65 twin share (No linen, shared bathroom with campers) Stone Rooms - $90 twin share (Linen provided, shared bathroom with campers) Self contained unit - $160 twin share plus extra for each additional adult (can sleep up to 5)

Water: If you like Melbourne water, it might be advisable to bring your own water to drink.

Website: http://www.mtive.com.au/index.htm

Please be aware: Mt Ive is fully booked during Speed Week (speed trials on Lake Gairdner), which finishes on 16 March. At this stage, they are unsure how many people will elect to remain at the Station following Speed Week. Unpowered camping should not be a problem and some powered camping may be available by then. The rooms could be problematic. If you wish to book a room, you should contact the Station directly on (08) 8648 1817 or email them on [email protected]. Things to Do

We have two full days to either explore the Station, relax or a combination of both.

The Station offers numerous 4WD tracks, the most popular one being the drive out to Lake Gairdner. The tracks seem to be mainly “Moderate to Challenging” and range in duration from short to trips of up to 4 hours. We intend to lead a trip out to the Lake and, depending on interest, will decide “what we get up to” on the next day.

$55 per vehicle gives full access to all tracks, ie over the two day period. A trip out to Lake Gairdner only will cost $30 per vehicle. Shown below is a selection of the tracks on offer (apologies for the resolution, but they were photographed with a phone at Mt Ive and emailed to us).

March 22 and 23: Quorn Caravan Park

Mt Ive to Quorn: 233 km Start Time: 10.00am

Food: Fully self-sufficient or eat out (there are 4 hotels and a number of cafes). There is also a reasonable IGA in town.

Rates: 2017 Single Two Accommodation Person Persons 2 BR Ensuite Cabins (sleeps up to 5 – max. 4 adults) $130 $140 – linen & towels provided for main bed Standard Ensuite Cabins (sleeps up to 6 – max. 4 adults) $100 $110 – linen & towels provided for main bed Onsite Eco Tourer Caravan (sleeps 2) – linen & towels $65 $75 provided Bunkhouse (sleeps 2) – byo bedding or hire bed pack $40 $50 Bunkhouse (sleeps 1-6) – byo bedding or hire bed pack $40 $50 Powered Site $29 $35 Unpowered Site $22 $28

Website: https://www.quorncaravanpark.com.au Things to Do

We will probably arrive in Quorn mid afternoon, which will provide plenty of time to set up camp and maybe head to one (or more) of the pubs for a beer.

Planned Activity: Horseshoe Rim Adventure Track

Quorn to Horseshoe Rim: 75km Start time: Between 9.00 - 9.30am

We have one full day in Quorn, during which we intend to lead a trip out of Quorn to drive the Horseshoe Rim Adventure Track. This track is graded as Moderate and takes approximately 3 hours. Allowing an hour each way and 3 hours for the track plus breaks we should return to camp between 4.00 - 4.30pm. The cost of the drive is $50 per vehicle.

Other Activities (if you don’t want to 4wd)

Historic Walk There is a pleasant Historic Walk through the town which includes 27 buildings and locations most of which date from the late 19th and early 20th century when the town was an important railway centre. The walk starts at the Railway Station (1916) and goes past the Austral Hotel (1878), Mathews Emporium - Quornucopia (1886), Criterion Hotel (1890), Court House (1879), Town Hall (1891), Anglican Church (1897), the Flour Mill (1878), Trancontinental Hotel (1878), Grand Junction Hotel (1890), Catholic Church (1883), Uniting Church (1879) and Lutheran Church (1890).

Pichi Richi Railway The Pichi Richi Railway Preservation Society Inc. has, since its formation in 1973, been dedicated to the preservation, restoration and operation of the Pichi Richi Railway, the first leg of the old Central Australian Railway to Alice Springs - the old Ghan route. The society has built up a collection of historic narrow gauge rolling stock of the old South Australian and Commonwealth Railways. These are restored and operated on a voluntary basis. The line has been extended through to Port Augusta, so trains now depart from both the Quorn and Port Augusta Railways Stations on a regular basis. For more details contact (1800) 440 101.

Quorn Railway Station The first Quorn railway station was built in 1860. This handsome limestone building was completed in 1916 and is characterised by a bull-nosed iron roofed verandah with cast iron decoration.

Quorn Mill Situated at 2 Railway Terrace this important building was constructed for John Dunn in 1879. Dunn was one of the most successful millers in the district and took advantage of the good years in the late 1870s when the wheat crops were substantial. Unfortunately a couple of years after it was built the district experienced a period of sustained drought which drove many of the wheat farmers off the land.

Outdoor Agricultural Implements Museum Located on the Pichi Richi Pass Road this is an interesting display of historic farm implements. The low rainfall in the district ensures that they are well preserved with little sign of rust.

Cradock Cradock is nothing more than a broken down petrol station, a pub and one house. Further along the road is a beautiful old church, St Gabriel's Church, which was built in 1882 and is now part of the National Heritage. It is a tiny and exotic village on the edge of the desert.

Kanyaka Ruins Located 42 km north of Quorn on the road to Hawker, the Kanyaka Ruins are definitely worth visiting. A strange collection of ruins dating back to 1851 when Kanyaka Station was a huge wheat property (984 square kilometres) on the limits of the desert. At the time it supported a station population of nearly 70 families (working on farms at the time was labour intensive) but the inevitable droughts drove the people away so that all that is left are the ruins of the buildings. The buildings include remnants of a stable and harness room, a woolshed and an overseer's cottage. March 24: Mount Mary Hotel

Quorn to Mout Mary: 288 km Start Time: 9.30am

Food: Fully self-sufficient or a meal at the Hotel. We haven’t eaten there, but we understand the meals are excellent - although they need to be arranged prior to arriving.

Rates: Unpowered Camping - $20 per night (when we stayed there last time) Powered Camping - Limited powered camping available. Motel style rooms are also available.

Amenities: Showers and toilets, but no camp kitchen.

Contact details: Phone: (08) 8581 0581

The historic hotel, which first opened in 1894, is filled with historical relics and memorabilia donated by visitors. Option 2: Quorn to Mount Mary via Cradock: 360km

Cradock is a small but delightful cluster original Baltic pine boards. There's a of buildings on the Orrorro to Hawker 44 gallon drum, converted into a rustic road. In a stunning part of the truly but effective wood burning stove and magical Flinders Ranges. The a shelf displayed a collection of settlement grew around timber primitive tools. The bar is constructed clearing in the 1870's, which from modest timber sheets, which subsequently gave way to sheep, slope inwardly towards the floor. It's wheat and later beef grazing as more topped with red laminex, classically land was cleared. Pastoralism still plays trimmed with a chrome strip. Its the a big role around the tiny settlement, result of a 1950's renovation, but which is home to a show piece historic appears perfectly at home in this pub. delightful nineteenth century public house.

The pub has managed to cleverly maintain a subtle balance between a simple country pub which retains its locals and a venue that attracts Adelaide's urbanites on weekends. Maybe the fact that it does feel very much like a simple country pub, where visitors can rub shoulders with local The radiant old sandstone pub stands residents, is what attracts the urban with a church-like structure and has set. identical gables on either end, each with a striking corrugated-iron facade. A tastefully renovated passageway Letters cut from galvanised tin, placed leads to a dining room which hosts an on a wrought iron frame, spell out the odd assortment of bucolic timber words Cradock Hotel across a furniture, in all shapes and colors. corrugated iron awning. Timber floorboards, high ceiling bring an ambience to the room. Inside the pub, which dates back to The Cradock Hotel has a reputation for 1881, the theme of charm continues. its fine food. The philosophy centres The walls are simply painted white and upon straightforward meals. Dishes are the floors are made of exposed, crafted from fresh quality produce, Due to the nature of his disease, the much of it from the region. local undertaker refused to move the body. He lay in his room, in the The pub is allegedly haunted by November heat, for a week before a Lawrence, a former publican, who group of locals decided that enough oversees the establishment in the form was enough and carted him up to the of a ghostly custodian. The local cemetery. unfortunate gentlemen in question died in his room at the pub in 1909 of Depending on the level of interest, it a strange virus after returning from might be an interesting diversion. the spring racing carnival in Melbourne. March 25: Timberoo Nature Reserve

Mount Mary to Timberoo: 360 km Start Time: 9.30am

Food: Fully self-sufficient

Water: Fully self-sufficient

Rates: Bush Camping - FREE

Amenities: Flushing toilets are available

Well, there is not much here but it has a large open flat area for us to spread out. There is also a TON of firewood, courtesy of timber clearing activity many years ago. March 26: Melbourne

Timberoo to Melbourne:: Around 460 km Start Time: Whenever

Depending on our preferences, we can either make our own way home or travel as a group until, say, lunchtime.