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The Lake District & Cumbria

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Lake District & Cumbria Why Go? THE LAKE DISTRICT . .574 If it’s grandstand views you’re looking for, nowhere in Eng- Windermere & land can match Cumbria. It’s a place where the superlatives Bowness . .577 simply run dry – home to the nation’s longest and deepest Grasmere . 585 lakes, as well as its smallest church, steepest road, highest town and loftiest peak. The glaciers that carved out this Hawkshead . 586 landscape during the last ice age have long since melted, Coniston . 588 leaving behind a string of crags, fells and sparkling tarns Wasdale . .591 that form the core of one of England’s oldest national parks Ullswater & Around . .597 – the stunning Lake District, founded in 1951 and still con- sidered by many to be the spiritual heartland of English CUMBRIAN COAST . .598 hiking. Furness Abbey . 599 But there’s much more to this region than just fi ne views. NORTHERN & With a wealth of literary and artistic connections, a history EASTERN CUMBRIA . .600 stretching back over 5000 years and some of the halest and Carlisle . 600 heartiest cooking anywhere in England, it’s packed with more natural appeal than almost anywhere else in Britain. Best Places to Eat When to Go? Cumbria’s largest mountain festival is held in Keswick in » Punch Bowl Inn (p 582) mid-May, while the Beer Festival in June welcomes ale » Jumble Room (p 586 ) afi cionados from across the globe. Ambleside’s traditional » Drunken Duck (p 587 ) sports day on the last Saturday in July features events such as houndtrailing and Cumbrian wrestling; Grasmere’s an- » Yanwath Gate Inn (p 604 ) nual sports day takes place on the August Bank Holiday. In November, the world’s greatest liars congregate on Santon Best Places to Stay Bridge for their annual fi bbing contest. » Moss Grove Organic (p585 ) » Waterhead Hotel (p 582 ) » Yewfield (p 587 ) » Howe Keld (p 594 ) » Summer Hill Country House (p 590 ) History maps and guidebooks, including Collins’ The earliest settlers arrived in the Lake Dis- Lakeland Fellranger, Ordnance Survey’s 571 trict 5000 years ago, building stone circles Pathfinder Guides, and Alfred Wain- like Castlerigg and quarrying fl int and wright’s classic hand-drawn, seven-volume stone around Stonethwaite and Seatoller. set, A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells The region was subsequently occupied by (recently updated by experienced hiker and Celts, Angles, Vikings and Romans, and Wainwright devotee Chris Jesty). during the Dark Ages marked the centre If you’re planning on anything more than of the kingdom of Rheged, which extended a low-level stroll in the Lakes, a decent- across much of modern Cumbria, Dumfries quality map is essential. Walkers have a and Galloway in Scotland, and was annexed choice of two map publishers: traditionalists by neighbouring Northumbria sometime in gen erally opt for the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 the 8th century. Landranger series maps, although many During the Middle Ages Cumbria marked hikers prefer Harvey Superwalker 1:25,000 the start of ‘The Debatable Lands’, the wild maps, which are specifi cally made for walk- frontier between England and Scotland. ers and clearly mark major trail routes Bands of Scottish raiders known as Bor- (as well as all 214 fells detailed by Alfred der Reivers regularly plundered the area, Wainwright in his classic walking guides). prompting the construction of distinctive There are endless fell trails to choose pele towers, built to protect the inhabitants from, but if you’re up for something more THE LAKE DISTRICT & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & LAKE DISTRICT THE from border raiders, and the stout fortress- challenging, how about Alfred Wain- es at Carlisle, Penrith and Kendal. wright’s Coast to Coast Walk (http://www The area was a centre for the Romantic .thecoasttocoastwalk.info/), which cuts west movement during the 19th century, and to east from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay writers including Coleridge, de Quincey in North Yorkshire, a distance of 191 miles. and William Wordsworth were among the The Cumbrian section passes through Hon- fi rst to champion the area’s natural beauty ister Pass, Grasmere, Patterdale, Kirkby above its potential for industrial resources (a Stephen and Shap en route to the Yorkshire cause later taken up by other literary lumi- Dales, a fi ve- to seven-day hike of 82 miles. naries, including John Ruskin and Beatrix Door-to-door baggage services can be Potter). The Lake District became one of the useful; contact Coast to Coast Packhorse nation’s fi rst national parks in 1951, and the (%017683-71777; www.c2cpackhorse.co.uk) or modern county of Cumbria was formed from Sherpa Van (%0871 520 0124; www.sherpa the old districts of Cumberland and West- van.com). morland in 1974. OTHER ACTIVITIES Cumbria is a haven for adrenalin-fuelled 2 Activities CYCLING activities, ranging from rock climbing and Cycling is popular in Cumbria, especially orien teering to quad biking, fell running mountain biking on the fells, but you’ll and ghyll scrambling (a cross between need nerves (and legs) of steel on the more coasteering and river canyoning along a challenging routes. Cycle-hire shops are steep ravine). Sailing, kayaking and wind- widespread, and tourist offi ces stock a cy- surfi ng are popular too, especially around cling map showing traffi c-free routes. Bike Windermere, Derwent Water and Coniston. hire starts at around £15 per day. Check out www.lakedistrictoutdoors. Long-distance bikers can follow the co.uk for the low-down. 72-mile Cumbria Way (www.cumbriaway 8 Getting There & Away cycleroute.co.uk) between Ulverston, Keswick and Carlisle, and the Cumbrian section of BUS National Express coaches run direct from London and Glasgow to Windermere, Carlisle the 140-mile Sea to Sea Cycle Route (C2C; and Kendal. Count on seven hours between www.c2c-guide.co.uk) from Whitehaven via London Victoria and Windermere. the northern Lake District en route to the TRAIN Carlisle is on the main Virgin West Coast North Pennines and Newcastle. line from London Euston to Manchester to WALKING Glasgow, with trains running roughly hourly from For many people, hiking on the fells is the both north and south. To get to the Lake District, main reason for a Lake District visit. Trails you need to change at Oxenholme, where regular range from low-level rambles to full-blown trains travel west into Kendal and Windermere. mountain ascents; most tourist offi ces sell There are at least three direct trains from .
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